was very similar to that of the village we had first seen on entering
the country. But the tops of the granaries in general were here provided
with a sort of “fennel,” covered in by a roof of straw. Broad well-
trodden paths, lined by thick fences of a peculiar bush called “mágara”
in Kanúri, which I have mentioned in another locality[17], were winding
along through the fields in every direction. But there was one object
which attracted my attention in particular, as it testified to a certain
degree of civilization, which might have shamed the proud Mohammedan
inhabitants of these countries. For while the latter are extremely
negligent in burying their dead, leaving them without any sufficient
protection against the wild beasts, so that most of them are devoured in
a few days by the hyænas, here we had regular sepulchres, covered in
with large well-rounded vaults, the tops of which were adorned by a
couple of beams cross-laid, or by an earthen urn. The same sort of
worship as paid by these pagans to their ancestors prevails in a great
part of Africa, and however greatly the peculiar customs attached to the
mode of worship may vary, the principle is the same; but I nowhere more
regretted having no one at hand to explain to me the customs of these
people, than I did on this occasion. The urn most probably contains the
head of the deceased; but what is indicated by the cross-laid beams I
cannot say.
I was so absorbed in contemplating this interesting scene, that I
entirely forgot my own personal safety; for the vizier, without my
becoming aware of it, had pursued the track on his powerful charger at
an uncommonly quick rate, and was far in advance. Looking around me, I
found only a small number of Shúwa horsemen near me, and keeping close
to them pursued the path; but when we emerged from the thick forest, and
entered another well-cultivated and thickly-peopled district, every
trace of a trodden footpath ceased, and I became aware that I was
entirely cut off from the main body of the army. A scene of wild
disorder here presented itself. Single horsemen were roving about to and
fro between the fences of the villages; here a poor native, pursued by
sanguinary foes, running for his life in wild despair; there another
dragged from his place of refuge; while a third was observed in the
thick covert of a ficus, and soon became a mark for numerous arrows and
balls. A small troop of Shúwa horsemen were collected under the shade of
a tree, trying to keep together a drove of cattle, which they had taken.
In vain did I address Shúwa and Kanúri, anxiously inquiring what
direction the commander-in-chief had taken; nobody was able to give me
any information with regard to his whereabouts. I therefore scoured the
village in all directions, to see if I could find by myself the track of
the army; but the traces ran in every direction.
Here I fell in with several troops of horsemen, in the same state of
uncertainty as myself, and joined one of them, where there were some
heavy cavalry; neither the attendants of the vizier, nor the man who
carried his carpet, could tell which direction he had taken. While
anxiously looking about, I suddenly heard behind us the beating of a
drum or “gánga,” and following the sound found a considerable number of
horsemen, of every description, collected on an open area; and here I
received the exciting news that the pagans had broken through the line
of march at the weakest point, and that while the vizier had pursued his
track, the rear had been dispersed. If these poor pagans, who certainly
are not wanting in courage, were led on by experienced chieftains, and
waited for the proper opportunity, they would be able in these dense
forests, where cavalry is scarcely of any use, to do an immense deal of
damage to this cowardly host, and might easily disperse them altogether.
But the principal reason of the weakness of these Músgu tribes is, that
they have only spears and the “góliyó,” and no arrows; else they would
certainly be able to keep these troublesome neighbours at a respectful
distance. Of what little use even the firelock is to the latter, I had
ample opportunity of judging, several musketeers having come to me
anxiously entreating me to provide them with flints, as their own had
been lost or had proved useless.
At length the motley host moved on without order or array; but their
irresolution and fear, owing to a few pagans who were concealed in a
thicket, were so great, that after a while we retraced our steps. Having
then taken a more easterly direction, we reached, through a thick
forest, a large swampy piece of water in low meadow-grounds, not less
than a mile in breadth, covered with rank grass, the dry ground in some
places intervening. Here I found a considerable part of the cavalry,
drawn up in a long line and watering their horses, and I learned that
the encampment was near. It would have been very unsatisfactory to be
exposed to a serious attack in the company of the disorderly host in
which I had lately found myself.
Having watered my horse, I followed the deep sound of the big drum of
the vizier, and found the body of the army a few hundred yards from the
eastern border of this ngáljam, in rich stubble-fields shaded by
beautiful trees; but as yet no tent was pitched, and a great deal of
anxiety prevailed, the first camels having arrived without their loads,
which they had thrown off, their drivers having taken to flight: but
this circumstance ensured the safety of the greater part of the train,
as the commander immediately despatched two officers with their
squadrons to bring up the rear. To this circumstance we were indebted
for the safety of our own camels, which had been in imminent danger, the
pagans having collected again in the rear of the principal body of the
army.
The Bórnu camels are half mehára, and, while they surpass in strength
the camels of the desert, possess a great deal of their swiftness. Not
only does the camel which carries the war-drum always follow close
behind the commander, at whatever rate he may pursue his march, but even
his other camels generally keep at a very short distance, and the best
camels of the courtiers follow close behind.
The village we had just reached was named Kákalá, and is one of the most
considerable places in the Músgu country. A large number of slaves had
been caught this day; and in the course of the evening, after some
skirmishing, in which three Bórnu horsemen were killed, a great many
more were brought in: altogether they were said to have taken one
thousand, and there were certainly not less than five hundred. To our
utmost horror, not less than one hundred and seventy full-grown men were
mercilessly slaughtered in cold blood, the greater part of them being
allowed to bleed to death, a leg having been severed from the body. Most
of them were tall men, with not very pleasing features. Their forehead,
instead of shelving backwards, was generally very high, and the line of
the face straight; but their thick eyelashes, wide, open nostrils, thick
lips, high cheekbones, and coarse bushy hair, gave them a very wild
appearance. The proportions of the legs, with the knee-bone bent inward,
were particularly ugly; and on the whole they were more bony than the
Marghí. They were all of a dirty black colour, very far from that glossy
lustre which is observed in other tribes. Most of them wore a short
beard. The ears of several were adorned with small copper rings, while
almost all of them wore round their necks a thick rope made of the dúm-
bush or ngílle, coarsely twisted, as a sort of ornament.
[Sidenote: Monday, December 29th.]
Soon after setting out from the place of encampment, we had to cross the
ngáljam, which here also was thickly overgrown with rank grass, and the
passage of which was very difficult, owing to the countless holes caused
by the footprints of the elephant. We then entered a dense forest, where
I saw again, for the first time, my old Háusa acquaintance, the kókia, a
middle-sized tree with large leaves and with a fruit of the size of an
apple, which at present was green, but even when ripe is not edible.
This tree, in the course of the expedition, I found to be very common in
the wilds of this country.
The unwarlike spirit of our large army became more apparent than ever by
to-day’s proceedings: for a vigorous commander would certainly have
accelerated his march through this forest, in order to take the enemy
unawares; but long before noon a halt was ordered in the midst of the
forest—certainly against the inclination of the majority. There was a
great deal of indecision; and in truth there seemed to be many who
wished rather that the enemy should have time to escape, than to incite
him to make a desperate struggle for his safety. The neighbouring pond
(where, on our arrival, a herdsman who had come to water his cattle had
been slain), we were told, did not contain a sufficient supply of water
for the wants of the whole army; and when at length we had fairly
dismounted, the rank grass being burnt down in order to clear the
ground, and the fire being fed by a strong wind, a terrible
conflagration ensued, which threw us into the greatest confusion, and
obliged us to seek our safety in a hasty retreat. Nevertheless, after a
great deal of hesitation, it was at length determined to encamp here.
There was no scarcity of water—for the pond proved to be very spacious
and of great depth; but the grass having been burned, the whole ground
was covered with a layer of hot ashes, which blackened everything.
By and by the camels arrived, the encampment was formed, and every one
had given himself up to repose of mind and body, when suddenly the
alarm-drums were beaten, and everybody hastened to arms, and mounted his
horse. It seemed incredible that an enemy whose movements were
uncombined, and not directed by any good leaders, should attack such an
army, of more than 10,000 cavalry, and a still greater number of foot,
although I am persuaded that a resolute attack of a few hundred brave
men would have defeated the whole of this vain and cowardly host. The
alarm, as was to be expected, proved unfounded; but it showed the small
degree of confidence which the people had in their own strength. Three
pagan women had been seen endeavouring to reach the water by stealth;
and this gave rise to the conclusion that the enemy was near, for the
dense forest all around hemmed in the view entirely.
[Illustration: Drawn by J. M. Bernatz, from a Sketch by Dr. Barth.
M. & N. Hanhart, lith. et impt.
ENCAMPMENT IN THE FOREST.
Jany. 1852.]
When at length the encampment had resumed its former state of
tranquillity, the prince Ádishén, with a numerous suite of naked
followers, came to my tent, and I requested him to enter; there was,
however, nothing attractive or interesting about him, and I was glad to
get rid of him with a few presents. The difference between the Marghí
and Músgu, notwithstanding the affinity indicated by their language and
some of their manners, is indeed great, and is, as I have already
intimated above, rather to the disadvantage of the latter, whose forms
exhibit less of symmetry, and whose features have a very wild and savage
appearance. Neither in these Músgu courtiers, nor in the common people,
had I observed any of those becoming ornaments, especially those iron
arm-rings, which I have mentioned in describing the Marghí.
Ádishén had shaved his head, in order to give to himself the appearance
of a Moslim, and wore a tobe; but of his companions, only one had
adopted this foreign garment, all the others having their loins girt
with a leather apron. In order to keep themselves on horseback, they
have recourse to a most barbarous expedient. They make a broad open
wound on the back of their small sturdy ponies, in order to keep their
seat; and when they want to ride at full speed, they often scratch or
cut their legs in order to glue themselves to the horse’s flanks by
means of the blood which oozes from the wounds: for as I have stated
above, they have neither saddle, stirrups, nor bridle, and they use
nothing but a simple rope to guide their animals. They generally carry
only one spear, but several “góliyó”s or hand-bills, the latter being
evidently their best weapon, not only in close fight, but even at a
distance, as they are very expert in throwing this sharp and double-
pointed iron sideways, and frequently inflict severe wounds on the legs
of horses as well as of men. Some of their chiefs protect their persons
with a strong doublet made of buffalo’s hide, with the hair inside.[18]
[Sidenote: Tuesday, Dec. 30th.]
This was the last day’s march which our expedition was to make towards
the south, or rather south-east. For the first ten or eleven miles we
kept through dense forest, the thick covert of which rendered it
difficult for us to make our way, while the restless and vicious Bórnu
horses, crowded together and hemmed in by the thicket, repeatedly came
into most unpleasant collision; and here again I was much indebted to my
massive stirrups, which bravely kept their ground against bush and man.
The whole forest consisted of middle-sized trees, the kókia being
predominant, while scarcely a single tree of larger size was to be seen.
It seemed very natural that all the wild animals should flee before such
a host of people; but I was astonished at the scarcity of ant-hills,
notwithstanding the great degree of moisture which prevails in these
extensive levels, and which is so favourable to the existence of this
insect.
Our march the whole morning had been straight for Dáwa, the village of
the Túfuri or Túburi, a section of the great tribe of the Farí or Falí,
of which I have spoken in a former part of my narrative.
There had been a great deal of discussion in the last day’s council as
to the expediency of attacking this place, the subjection, or rather
destruction of which was of great importance, not only to Mʿallem Jýmma,
but even to the Fúlbe settled in the eastern districts of Ádamáwa in
general. This party at last had gained the upper hand over the greater
part of the cowardly Kanúri courtiers; but at present, when we
approached the seat of this tribe, who are well known to be warlike, and
when the question arose whether we should engage in battle with these
people in three or four hours’ time, it became rather a serious affair.
When, therefore, after a march of four hours we reached a beautiful
fresh meadow-water or “ngáljam” overgrown with rank grass, surrounded by
large spreading ngábbore trees, which pleasantly diversified the
monotonous forest, we made a halt, and while the horsemen watered their
animals, an animated “nógona,” or council, was held in the shade of a
beautiful fig-tree. Here it was decided that, at least to-day, we should
not march against Dáwa and the Túburi, but were to change our course
more to the eastward in the direction of Démmo. It is probable that the
vizier on this occasion promised to his friends, that after he had taken
up his head-quarters at Démmo, and deposited safely, in the fortified
encampment, the spoil that he had already made in slaves and cattle, he
would march against Dáwa; but unfortunately, or rather luckily for the
inhabitants, it was not our destiny to visit that interesting and
important place, as I shall soon have occasion to mention.
During our halt here I contemplated, with the most lively and intense
interest, the rich and animated scene which presented itself before my
eyes,—a mass of some thousand horsemen, dressed in the most varied
manner and in the most glowing colours, with their spirited chargers of
every size, description, and colour, crowded together along the green
margin of a narrow sheet of water, skirted by a dense border of large
trees of the finest foliage.
After a halt of about a quarter of an hour we were again in the saddle,
and pursued our march, but now in an entirely different direction,
keeping almost due east, and crossing the shallow watercourse, which
stretched from north to south a little below our halting-place, the
place where we crossed it being quite dry and full of holes caused by
the footsteps of the elephant. The wilderness for a while was clearer;
but after a march of about two miles we reached a very thick covert,
where it was found necessary to send out scouts, in order to see if the
enemy was lying in ambush. It is a great pity that these poor natives do
not know how to avail themselves, against their cruel and cowardly
enemies, of the fastnesses with which nature has endowed these regions.
Of course, these immense forests, which separate one principality, and I
might say one village, from another, are themselves a consequence of the
want of intelligence and of the barbarous blindness of these pagan
tribes, who, destitute of any common bond of national unity, live
entirely separated from, and even carry on war against each other.
Scarcely had we made ourselves a path through the thicket, when we
reached another meadow-water, which at present, however, looked rather
like a bog, and offered some difficulties to the passage of the horses.
Having then for some time kept upon dry ground, about noon we had to
cross another swamp; but beyond this the country became open.
Having now reached the place of our destination, the banners were
unfolded, the drums beaten, and the greater part of the cavalry hurried
on in advance ready for fighting, or rather for pillage, for no enemy
was to be seen. Immediately afterwards we reached the village of Démmo,
and marched slowly along, looking out for the best place for encamping.
Numerous deléb-palms became visible behind the shady acacias, when
suddenly we obtained sight of a broad shallow watercourse, larger than
any we had yet seen in this country—more than two miles in width, with a
considerable sheet of open water, where two pagan canoes were seen
moving about.
Greatly interested in the scene, we closely approached the edge of the
water, which seemed to be of considerable depth, although a number of
hungry Kánembú had passed the first open sheet, and were fishing in its
more shallow part, which divided the open water into two branches. From
beyond the opposite shore a whole forest of deléb-palms were towering
over the other vegetation of lower growth, as if enticing us to come and
enjoy their picturesque shade. The direction of the watercourse at this
spot was from S.W. to N.E.; and, according to the unanimous statement of
those who had any knowledge of these regions, it joins the Serbéwuel,
that is to say the upper course of the river or “éré” of Logón.
Here we stood awhile, and looked with longing eyes towards the opposite
shore; it was a most interesting and peculiar scenery, highly
characteristic of these level equatorial regions of Africa. What an
erroneous idea had been entertained of these regions in former times!
Instead of the massive Mountain-range of the Moon, we had discovered
only a few isolated mounts; instead of a dry desolate plateau, we had
found wide and extremely fertile plains, less than one thousand feet
above the level of the sea, and intersected by innumerable broad
watercourses with scarcely any inclination. Only towards the south-west,
at the distance of about sixteen miles, the low rocky mount of the
Túburi was seen.
[Illustration: Drawn by J. M. Bernatz, from a Sketch by Dr. Barth.
M. & N. Hanhart, lith. et impt.
THE NGÁLJAM AT DÉMMO.
Decr. 31st. 1851.]
But not less interesting than the scenery of the landscape was the
aspect of the host of our companions, who were here crowded together at
the border of the water. Only very few of them had penetrated as far
before; and they looked with curiosity and astonishment upon this
landscape, while most of them were rather disappointed that the water
prevented them from pursuing the poor pagans, the full-grown amongst
whom, with few exceptions, had just had time to escape. But a
considerable number of female slaves and young children were captured;
for the men did not take to flight till they became aware, from the
thick clouds of dust which were raised by the army, that it was not one
of the small expeditions which they were accustomed to resist, that was
coming to attack them. Besides the spoil in human beings, a considerable
number of colts and cattle were brought in.
Having indulged in the aspect of this rich scene which formed such a
contrast to the monotonous neighbourhood of Kúkawa, we retraced our
steps, in order to encamp at some distance from the water, which of
course gives life to millions of mosquitoes, and encamped amongst the
smouldering ruins of the huts. The whole village, which only a few
moments before had been the abode of comfort and happiness, was
destroyed by fire and made desolate. Slaughtered men, with their limbs
severed from their bodies, were lying about in all directions, and made
the passer-by shudder with horror. Such is the course of human affairs
in these regions! Small troops of light cavalry tried to pursue the
enemy; and there was some fighting in the course of the afternoon, when
a few men of the Bórnu army were killed.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, December 31st.]
We remained here this and the following day, it being the intention of
the Bórnu people, according to their own statement, to reduce this
country to subjection; and I deeply regretted that the circumstances
under which we visited this region did not allow me to collect all the
information I wished. But roving about the encampment, I endeavoured to
pick up what I could.
All the huts had clay walls, which were from four to six inches thick,
and had resisted the conflagration, the roofs, consisting of beams and
reed, having fallen in. The diameter of the huts varied from eight to
twelve feet. Each hut contained a large jar for holding water, and some
had a peculiar fire-place, inclosed by separate walls, and not unlike an
oven; but, although in general the arrangement of the huts was
comfortable, I found the dwellings in other villages of this country far
superior, nor did I observe here such large courtyards as I had seen
elsewhere. In the centre of the village there were some extensive tanks,
or pools of water, which seemed to be made by the hand of man.
The whole encampment, or “ngáufate,” was surrounded with a strong fence
of thorny bushes, rather for the purpose of preventing the slaves from
escaping, than to defend the encampment against an enemy. Having
wandered about amidst this scene of destruction, I went in the afternoon
to the border of the “ngáljam,” which was enlivened by horses and cattle
grazing, and people quietly reclining here and there or bathing in the
water.[19] I then wandered along the bank to some distance, where the
sheet of open water on this side was entirely interrupted, while on the
other shore a considerable strip of water stretched out before the view.
Here, in Démmo, the year 1852 opened to me, in the course of which I at
that time entertained a hope of returning homewards, not fancying that I
was to remain three years more in these barbarous countries, amidst
constantly varying impressions of discovery, of disappointment, of
friendly and hostile treatment, and under all sorts of affliction,
distress, and sickness.
Our stay here was varied by a few interesting incidents, one of which I
will relate. The intriguing Shúwa chief Mʿallem Jýmma, whose ambitious
designs did not allow him any rest, had not only persuaded the head man
of Démmo, who had made his escape, but even the chief of the nearest
village on the other side of the ngáljam, to make his subjection
publicly, and to seek the protection of Bórnu. They were therefore
introduced this day into the nógona or council, and threw dust upon
their heads. But when they had to confirm their subjection by an oath,
the pagan prince of Démmo indeed took an oath, raising a handful of
earth, and allowing it to glide through his fingers, but the chief from
the other side of the ngáljam refused to take the oath, under the
pretext that this earth was not fit for his vow, not being his own soil;
he said he must first bring a handful of earth from his own country. An
oath taken upon earth that belonged to their native soil was also common
among the ancients.
Both chiefs had made their appearance in their native attire, that is to
say, quite naked with the exception of a narrow leather strip round
their loins; and it caused great merriment to the courtiers, that when,
in consequence of their subjection, they were officially dressed in
black tobes as a sort of investiture, the chief of Démmo drew his shirt
over his head, reckless whether the lower parts were covered or not. In
order to amuse the assemblage, they also blew their little horn, an
instrument which every Músgu grandee carries with him, and which bears a
great resemblance to a bugle; but in this accomplishment a priest who
accompanied them was more clever than themselves, producing melodious
and sonorous sounds from this simple and uncouth instrument.
This was the first and only time that I became aware that these pagan
tribes had separate priests; and I felt greatly disappointed that I did
not come into closer contact with them, nor was able to learn from other
people what were their peculiar duties. But, in general, I think I am
not mistaken in supposing that the sacerdotal functions with these
tribes of the interior are less developed than those on the coast; for
as yet I had seen very little of real fetishism. In general the office
of priest seems to be connected with that of chief.