an hour before noon, the northernmost of the Músgu villages, which is
called Gábari, surrounded by rich fields of native grain; but everything
presented a sad appearance of pillage and desolation. None of the
inhabitants were to be seen; for, although subjects of Ádishén, who
enjoyed the friendship and protection of the rulers of Bórnu, they had
thought it more prudent to take care of their own safety by flight than
to trust themselves to the discretion of the undisciplined army of their
friends and protectors. The preceding evening the order had been issued
through the encampment that all the property in the villages of Ádishén
should be respected, and nothing touched, from a cow to a fowl, grain
only excepted, which was declared to be at the disposal of everybody.
It was rather remarkable that the greatest part of the crops were still
standing, although we had been lingering so long on our road, and had
given sufficient time to the people to secure them for themselves. All
the grain consisted of the red species of holcus, called by the Bórnu
people “ngáberi kemé,” which grows here to the exclusion of the white
species and that of millet. All the people of the army were busy in
threshing the grain which they had just gathered at the expense of their
friends, and loading their horses with it. Even the fine nutritive grass
from the borders of the swamp, which, woven into long festoons, the
natives had stored up in the trees as a provision against the dry
season, was carried off, and, notwithstanding the express order to the
contrary, many a goat, fowl, and even articles of furniture which had
been left behind by the natives, fell a prey to the greedy host.
The spectacle of this pillage was the more saddening, as the village not
only presented an appearance of comfort, but exhibited in a certain
degree the industry of its inhabitants. In general each courtyard
contained a group of from three to six huts, according to the number of
wives of the owner. The walls of the dwellings, without a single
exception, were built of clay, which in the courtyards of the richer
people even formed the building-material of the fences. The roofs of the
cottages were thatched with great care, and at least as well as in any
house or village in Bórnu, and far superior to the thatching of the
Shúwa. The roofs even exhibited traces of various styles, and perhaps a
certain gradation in the scale of society.
[Illustration]
Almost every courtyard enclosed a shed, besides the huts, and one
granary built of clay and from twelve to fifteen feet high, with an
arched roof, likewise of clay, there being an opening at the top, which
was protected by a small cover of thatching, as the accompanying woodcut
shows. The way in which the natives had stored up their supply of hay
for the dry season was very remarkable, the rank grass being woven into
festoons of about fifteen feet in length, and hung up in the kórna-trees
which adorned the fields.
Having roved about at my leisure, I pursued my march, and, emerging from
the corn-fields, entered upon open meadow-grounds, partly under water,
which spread out to a considerable extent, and which, with their fresh
green turf, formed a beautiful contrast to the tall yellow crops which I
had just left behind. Ascending a little, we kept straight towards a
group of splendid trees which adorned the fields in front of another
village. The village was called Kórom, and belonged to a chief under the
authority of Ádishén, while Kadé, the residence of the latter, was only
at a short distance. In these fields the vizier had dismounted and
chosen the place for the encampment; and it was with a sad, sympathetic
feeling that I witnessed the lopping of the rich branches of the fine
trees, which were without doubt the most splendid specimens of the
karáge-tree which I had seen in Negroland, not excepting those in the
Marghí country. The largest among them measured not less than eighty
feet in height, and the diameter of their crown could scarcely be less;
but the foliage of this tree is by no means so dense and so regularly
shaped as that of the fig or tamarind-tree. None of these fine trees,
which had adorned the landscape, escaped destruction, in order to
provide fences for the larger tents; but the few monkey-bread trees
which here appeared, owing to the scanty foliage with which their
gigantic branches were decked out, escaped unhurt.
Here we remained the two following days, and the encampment became very
confined, the more so as the ground was rather uneven. The delay could
scarcely be defended in a strategetical point of view, as it could not
but serve to put all the neighbouring chiefs, who were hostile to
Ádishén, on their guard against any sudden inroad. But it was well that
they did so, as by a sudden inroad the poor persecuted natives might
have been totally annihilated.
In order to employ my leisure hours, I looked about for information
respecting the country we had just entered, and was fortunate enough to
collect some valuable data.[15]
The Músgu, or Músekú, are a division of the great nation of the
Mása[16], which comprises the Kótoko, or Mákari, the people of Logón, or
Lógone, the Mándará, or Úr Wándalá, with the Gámerghú, and the large
tribe of the Bátta, and probably even that of the Mbána. Of these tribes
the most intimately related to the Músgu are the people of Logón, who,
as we shall soon have occasion to show, are nothing but a section which
has quite recently separated from the parent stock, and constituted
itself as a distinct community, owing to its higher state of
civilization. Amongst the various divisions of the Kótoko, Ngála and
Klésem seem to be most nearly related to the Músgu.
However insignificant the tribe of the Músgu may appear in the eyes of
the European, the dialects of the various communities into which it is
split, owing to the hostile manner in which they are opposed to one
another, and their entire want of friendly intercourse, differ so much
that, as I was assured, the people of Lúggoy have great difficulty in
understanding those of Wúliya and Démmo. Unfortunately, I had no
opportunity of collecting specimens of the other dialects besides that
spoken by the people of Lúggoy. Their principal “sáfi,” or fetish,
consists in a long spear-like pole, similar to that of the Marghí; but
nevertheless there seems to be a considerable difference in their
superstitious worship, for, while with the Marghí the pole appears to be
rather a symbol than an image of the deity, and the real worship is
attached to the sacred locality, with the Músgu tribes I did not see a
single specimen of a sacred grove. The Músgu call their fetish “kefé.”
In the afternoon I attended some time at the vizier’s, and here made the
acquaintance of an interesting and adventurous old man of the name of
Mʿallem Jémme, or Jýmma, who took the principal part in the
conversation. The history of this man is highly characteristic, as
showing what a large field is open to the ambition of enterprising
Mohammedans in the pagan states to the south. Threatened with capital
punishment by the old sheikh, that is to say, Mohammed el Amín el
Kánemi, on account of his disobedience, this Shúwa chieftain had fled to
the pagans, and had there succeeded in establishing gradually, by his
own energy and mental superiority, a small principality; but at present,
for some reason or other, he had been expelled and had recourse to the
vizier of Bórnu for assistance to recover his former power. His great
knowledge of the country and the different tribes which inhabited it,
made him a welcome guest; but as for himself, he did not succeed in his
ambitious projects. In reference to my expedition to Ádamáwa, I have
already made use of the authority of this man, in giving an account of
the route which connects the southernmost point on our expedition to
Músgu with the places fixed by me along the river Bénuwé.
The mʿallem was not very communicative; and unfortunately I had no
handsome present to make him, or else I might have learned from him an
immense deal with regard to the geography and character of these
countries, which I have no doubt, not long hence, will become of
considerable importance to Europeans. For while these regions, situated
between the rivers Bénuwé and Shári, seem to be extremely rich and
fertile, and capable—on account of the uniform level of their unbroken
plains—of the highest state of cultivation, they are the most
accessible, on account of the extensive water-communication, which,
rendered available by the application of a very small degree of art and
industry, will open an easy access into the heart of Central Africa. Of
course, after the rainy season, when all these countless watercourses,
which intersect the country in every direction, and without any apparent
inclination, inundate the country, the climate in the plains cannot be
very healthy; but isolated mountains and hills are scattered by the hand
of nature through these luxuriant plains, capable of affording more
healthy localities for settlements.
Owing to the presence of the adventurer just mentioned, the conversation
that evening was very animated, till at length the courtiers, or
“kokanáwa,” withdrew behind the curtains of the vizier’s tent, in order
to take a little refreshment. I then took my leave; but I had only gone
a short distance when I was called back, being informed that it would no
doubt be interesting to me to witness an audience of Ádishén, the Músgu
chief, who was just about to pay his respects to the commander-in-chief.
I therefore returned to the vizier’s tent, where the courtiers had again
taken their post, according to their rank and station, on each side of
their leader.
After a short time the Músgu chief arrived, accompanied by his three
brothers, mounted, as is their custom, upon horses without saddle or
bridle. Great numbers of people had collected in front of the tent, and
saluted him with scoffs and importunities; but the pagan chief did not
allow himself to be put out of countenance by the insolence of the
slaves, but preserved his princely dignity. At length the curtains of
the spacious tent were drawn back, and in came the native prince. He was
of a short stout figure, and rather mild, but not very prepossessing
features, and apparently between fifty and sixty years of age. He wore a
black tobe, but no trowsers, and was bareheaded. Kneeling on the ground,
and clapping his hands, while he repeated the complimentary words, “Alla
ngúbberu degá” (God give you long life)! according to the custom of the
“katí gótsin,” he took up sand and sprinkled it upon his head; but as
soon as he had gone through this form of abject submission, he assumed
his character as a native chief. Thus, at once he complained of his
western neighbours, the Fúlbe or Felláta, or, as the Músgu people call
them, Chógchogo; for they, he said, had anticipated the vizier of Bórnu,
carrying off cattle and other things from his territory. The Bórnu chief
assured him that for the future he should not be exposed to such
injustice, but that he was entirely under the protection of Bórnu. He
then made a sign, and some parcels were opened, and Ádishén was
officially installed as a vassal and officer of Bórnu. First, he was
dressed in an elephant-shirt—the large black shirt from Núfe,—over which
a rich silk tobe was thrown, and over all an Egyptian shawl, while the
self-conceited courtiers, in their proud consciousness of a higher state
of civilization, treated him with contempt and scorn. My cheerful old
friend Kashélla Belál, who had decked him out in this finery, paid him
the usual compliments, exclaiming “ngúbberu degá maína, ngúbberu degá
maína,” maína being the title of the governor of a province.
Thus this petty pagan chief had become, in an official style, a kind of
officer of Bórnu, and in this manner was alone capable of preserving his
unenviable existence, at what sacrifices we shall soon see. The Músgu
nation is situated so unfavourably, surrounded by enemies on all sides,
that, even if they were linked together by the strictest unity, they
would scarcely be able to preserve their independence. How, then, should
they be able to withstand their enemies, separated as they are into
numerous petty dominions, and having no further object than to enslave
and pillage their neighbours and kinsmen? Nothing but the number of
swampy watercourses which intersect the country in all directions, and
during the greater part of the year render it impassable for hostile
armies, while even during the remaining part the principal rivers afford
natural lines of defence, behind which the inhabitants may seek refuge,
can explain how the country is so well peopled as it is, although the
intervening tracts have been already laid waste.
Towards the north there are the Kanúri, powerful by their numerous
cavalry and the advantage of firearms; towards the west and south-west
the restless Fúlbe continually advancing; towards the north-east the
people of Logón, originally their near kinsmen, but at present opposed
to them by difference of religion; towards the east, the wild Bágrimma
people, proud of their supposed preeminence in religion, and eager for
the profits of the slave-trade. All these people hunting them down from
every quarter, and carrying away yearly hundreds, nay even thousands of
slaves, must in the course of time exterminate this unfortunate tribe.
To-day was Christmas-day; and my companion and I, in conformity with a
custom of our native town, tried in vain to procure some fish for a more
luxurious entertainment in the evening. The meat of giraffes, which
formed the greatest of our African luxuries, was not to be obtained; and
as for elephant’s flesh, which we _were_ able to get, although we both
liked it, we had too sadly experienced its bad effect upon the weak
state of our bowels to try it again. Hence, in order to celebrate the
evening, we were reduced to coffee and milk, with which we regaled
ourselves.
We remained here the following day, under the pretext that the Fúlbe,
who had joined us, had not yet had an audience; but although the
effeminate courtiers were averse to any great exertion, the bulk of the
army, who had neither pay, nor were allowed to plunder in order to
obtain their necessary supplies, were not very well pleased with this
delay, and caused a great uproar while marching in battle-order before
the tents of their chiefs, and giving vent to their feelings by shaking
and beating their shields. On former expeditions the light troops of the
Shúwa and Kánembú had always been allowed to march some distance in
advance of the army in order to supply their wants; but on this occasion
a strict order had been issued that no one should go in advance.
In the afternoon Mr. Overweg went to pay a visit to Ádishén at his
residence in Kadé, which was about half an hour’s march distant towards
the south. He returned in the evening with a present of a goat, but did
not seem to be greatly pleased with his excursion; and it could scarcely
be otherwise, for while these pagans, who were obliged to disown all
national feeling, could scarcely show themselves in their true
character, and unreserved in their national manners, in the presence of
such an army, it could not but lower us in the eyes of our companions to
have too many dealings with these pagans, as they were apt to confound
us with them. To be regarded as a “kerdi” my companion cared little
about; but I was not much inclined to be identified as such, and it
could certainly reflect no honour on the character of our mission.
[Footnote 15: I here give a list of the chief principalities and places
of the Músgu country. First, at a short distance east from Kadé, the
residence of Ádishén, there is a place called Máyum; then a small place
called Mága; then Bárka, at present deserted; Masánafa, residence of the
prince Asánafay, after whom the whole principality is called; Márabná;
Íka; Búlno; Mákalné, probably originally the residence of a prince
Akalné, but at present the residence of the powerful chief Kábishmé;
Surán; Mázaga, the residence of a powerful chief who generally, after
the name of the whole principality, is named Fúss, but whose real name
seems to be Ngoimáta; Lúggoy; Bárea; Búgunla, with a chief Hyyúm;
Mbogtám; Boiboy; Kubásemí, with a prince Márgo; Kalán; Ngelmóng; Mórom,
with a chief Saderánza; Búllum; Bége; Mádalang; Kásway, which on our
farther march we left a little to the east; the principality Kákala;
Dwán or Adwán, towards the south-west; Gemáy, a large place, south-east;
Wúliya; Démmo, Áudege; Agsé. Some of these places are districts, which
we shall touch at in the course of the expedition; the position of the
others I am not able to fix with certainty.]
[Footnote 16: The Bagírmi people, even at the present day, call the
Músgu by the name Mása Músekú.]
CHAP. XLIV.
THE COUNTRY OF THE SHALLOW RIVERS. — WATER-PARTING BETWEEN THE RIVERS
BÉNUWÉ AND SHÁRI.
[Sidenote: Friday, December 26th.]
At length we went onward to pursue our march, turning considerably out
of our road towards the east, in order to avoid the residence of
Ádishén, and to prevent its being pillaged. The army, proceeding in
several large detachments, presented an interesting aspect. Here also
green crops of the winter corn, or “másakwá,” were still standing in
the fields. Further on we came to open pasture-grounds, and after a
march of about ten miles we reached a village called Bógo, where we
encamped. All the inhabitants had made their escape, although their
chief, whose name is Bakshámi, was an ally and friend of Ádishén. The
cottages were well built, but there was a great scarcity of trees.
Amongst the furniture was a fishing-basket, or, as the Kanúri call it,
“káyan;” and some of them were filled with dried paste of the red
species of holcus, which however the people were afraid to touch, lest
it might be poisoned. On a former expedition several people had been
poisoned by a pot of honey which had been left behind, on purpose, by
the natives in their flight. Already on this day’s march we had
observed, in the distance towards the west, an isolated rocky mount;
and here we saw it in more distinct outlines, while beyond, at a
greater distance, the continuous mountain-chain of Mándará became
slightly visible.
[Sidenote: Saturday, December 27th.]
Our march at first led through a dense forest, after which we emerged
upon more open swampy meadow-lands covered with rank grass, and full of
holes caused by the footprints of the elephant. Great quantities of
Guinea fowl were caught. Only here and there an isolated mimosa
interrupted the unbroken line of the savanna.
It was after a march of six miles that we obtained a sight of the first
deléb-palm in the Músgu country. Already repeatedly in the narrative of
my travels I have called the attention of the reader to this beautiful
fan-palm; but in all the localities where I had before observed it, it
was rather isolated. Even in Ádamáwa it is limited to peculiarly
favoured localities, while in some extensive provinces of that country,
such as Búban-jídda, it is wanting entirely. But here we had reached the
country where this beautiful and useful tree, probably only a variety of
the famous _Borassus flabelliformis_, is the most common and predominant
representative of the vegetable kingdom. The Músgu call it in their
language “úray.” From the Músgu country it seems to spread in an almost
uninterrupted and unbroken line through the southern provinces of
Bagírmi and Wadáÿ, as far as Kordofán, sending a few scouts and
forerunners to adorn the capital of Bagírmi and the watercourse of the
Bat-há.
We chose our encampment in a village called Bárëa, consisting of
scattered huts, and surrounded by rich stubble-fields, which were shaded
by large wide-spreading karáge trees, presenting a most cheerful and
comfortable scene. But we soon became aware that the fertility and
beauty of this district were due to the neighbourhood of a large sheet
of water full of crocodiles and river horses or “ngurútu,” and enlivened
even by a few small canoes. It had been indicated already on our march
by the flight of numerous waterfowl passing over our heads. Beautiful as
the country was, however, the place was deserted, the inhabitants having
given up their cheerful homes, and left the tombs of their worshipped
ancestors to the discretion of the hostile army, in order to seek safety
in flight. The village is the residence of a chieftain of the name of
Musíkko, who acknowledges Kábishmé, the chief mentioned above, as his
sovereign lord.
In the afternoon I received a short visit from a rather shabby sort of
man, the chief of a place called Médebé, but who was an object of
interest to me, as he had been sent as a messenger to the prince of
Mándará, and had just arrived in the encampment from the capital of that
little country. Travelling at a comfortable rate, he had arrived in
three days from Morá, sleeping the first night in the place called
Mókoshi, the second in Fétte, the place above-mentioned, and from thence
to-day had reached this place; but the whole journey, in an expeditious
march, may easily be accomplished in two days. Difficult as it would be
to me to impart to the reader the delight which I always felt in tracing
my routes from one point to another, and joining two places with which I
had become acquainted, by new itineraries, he may forgive me for
sometimes troubling him with these geographical details.
[Sidenote: Sunday, December 28th.]
We did not spend our Sunday in a quiet contemplative manner; but
nevertheless we spent it worthily, employing it in a good day’s march,
which opened out to us new and important features of the character of
the new region we had just entered. It was a pity we were not allowed by
circumstances to proceed in our real character of peaceful travellers,
anxious to befriend all the people with whom we came in contact, instead
of being obliged to join this host of merciless and sanguinary slave-
hunters, who, regardless of the beauty of the country and the cheerful
happiness of the natives, were only intent upon enriching themselves
with the spoil of the inhabitants.
After a march of a little less than five miles, we emerged from the
thick forest, and entered upon stubble-fields with numerous groups of
huts and wide-spreading trees, whose branches were all used for storing
up the ranks of nutritious grass of these swampy grounds, for a supply
in the dry season. The country was pleasant in the extreme. Several
artificial ponds enlivened the hamlet, and called to mind similar scenes
in my native country, except that ducks and geese were wanting. The only
scenes of active life which were at present to be seen were those of
pillage and destruction.
[Illustration: Drawn by J. M. Bernatz, from a Sketch by Dr. Barth.
M. & N. Hanhart, lith. et impt.
MÚSGU.
Decr. 28th. 1851.]