amongst the crew, as well as officers, were suffering greatly from
the constant exposure to wet and damp. That it was not more felt is
a matter of surprise: happily we had enough food and spirits, though
our bread had failed us; and we had saved a cask of tobacco, which
permitted smoking to be generally practised by all of us, and the
benefit which arose from it was evidently great. The crew were employed
in cutting and stacking wood for signal fires on the hill above the
camp, and in drying clothes and clearing the camp: a party also
thatching, with boughs of trees, the sentry boxes, to afford the men
some shelter from the weather. We this morning received a report that
the Indians had set fire to the wreck, and that it had burnt to the
water’s edge. Towards night the weather became cloudy, with showers of
rain.
_June 25._--Hard rain during the night, but clearing since daylight.
Signor Sylva, who had rendered himself of use in all cases where his
authority was necessary, this day took his departure for Arauco, with
our consent that he should do so; his presence now with us not being
of sufficient consequence to detain him longer from his command at
Aruaco: the influence of Mr. Rouse, the Consul, still with us, ensuring
on all occasions the countenance and aid of the Chilian government,
if wanted. Our friend Sylva found our rum particularly cordial to
his taste, and his desire to have a small supply for his journey was
granted. The crew was employed in drying bedding, &c., and scrubbing
hammocks. We received a supply of potatoes, and a few cheeses, which
we found very acceptable. Nothing in sight from the hills. The seine
was hauled in the river, but without success. Erected a hut on the hill
near the flag-staff, for the shelter of the party who were now posted
regularly there throughout the night, to keep the signal fires supplied
with fuel. Three midshipmen were permanently established in this hut,
which was large enough to hold the party of men who joined them every
evening, at dusk, to arrange the fires. Some of the officers, who were
rambling over the hills above the camp, discovered the skulls and
skeletons of several Indians. They were accounted for by the Chilians,
as some of the many who fell in the time of the rebel Benivedes, who,
with the Indians to assist him, had made this neighbourhood the scene
of many battles against the Chilinos.
_June 26._--It rained throughout the night, and drenched the camp,
causing most serious discomfort to the sick and invalids. Two officers
were despatched to ascertain the truth of the report of the burning
the wreck, which was confirmed on their return, scarcely a vestige
remaining. The force of the surf had washed up on the beach several
of the tanks, which the Indians were examining. The crew employed
in drying and airing clothes and bedding. The mice continued their
destructive attacks on us. At 5 P.M. a sail was reported to be in
sight from the hill in the N.N.W. direction, and there existed little
doubt that it was the schooner Carmen, on her way to find us. Most
unfortunately, the weather becoming foggy and squally, she was soon
lost sight of, and our only hope of attracting her attention was by
making large fires, which was immediately done, and kept burning all
night, but with ill success. A fine condor was shot by one of the
midshipmen on the hill. It was one of several which were constantly
hovering over our camp. Some of our sick began to exhibit symptoms of
fever, and caused us to feel an increasing anxiety to be relieved; for
we could not ensure a dry bed for a sick person, and the surgeon was
much abridged in the necessary medicines. At sunset, mustered under
arms. The night squally, with hard rain.
_June 27._--Continued heavy rain, with thunder and lightning, causing
the greatest possible discomfort to us; the weather so bad, that the
crew could be employed only in their tents, and were suffering much
from the wet. The fires had, with great difficulty, been kept burning
during the night. The evening still dark, cloudy, and threatening.
_June 28._--No improvement in the weather, the rain falling heavily.
Our camp in a deplorable condition, and the crew prevented from
employment and exercise. The sick not improving, and several instances
of despondency amongst them. The night promising no prospect of fairer
weather.
_June 29._--Wind N.W. and N. Still raining, and with no appearance of
its clearing. Our camp in a worse state than ever, and our situation
becoming hourly more serious and anxious, from our want of comfort and
protection for the sick, whose numbers were increasing. Towards evening
it rained less heavily, and the crew were employed in cutting fire-wood
for the cooks and the hill. At night it was dark and cloudy, with a
dense fog.
_June 30._--Wind northerly and N.W. Drizzling rain, with fog: nothing
in sight from the hill. The necessity of drying clothes and bedding
had become so great, that the crew were employed in lighting large
fires in the neighbouring wood, to endeavour to effect this object;
and, though a novel one, and in a damp fog, it succeeded tolerably
well. The officers could not now stroll far, and our supply of game
was at an end. Occasional visits to the Indian hut below us were
sometimes paid. To day, our little old Indian proprietor was squatted
before his fire in the centre of his hut, which was full of smoke,
poultry, and dogs, making a net, for holding potatoes or apples, out
of strips of coarse rushes, that grow abundantly in the neighbourhood.
A native of Arauco rents of him land to the extent of from 4000 to
6000 acres, for the value of ten dollars annually; used as a run for
a few horses and cattle, but liable to a visit from the more southern
or hostile Indians. Two or three of the grown up females usually paid
a daily visit to a spring situated in the wood joining our camp, with
calabashes, and aided each other in washing their heads and hair, to
which they appeared to pay great attention; a considerable time being
occupied in the _examination_ and arrangement of the back hair, which
was dark and very long, bound up in the form of the old-fashioned
queue, with a band comprised of coloured worsted threads, and allowed
to hang down the back, and terminating with many little ornaments of
brass or glass beads. Mustered, as usual. The weather dark and foggy.
_July 1. 1835._--Wind northerly. The weather thick and misty. The crew
had again recourse to lighting large fires in the wood, to dry their
bedding and clothes. Nothing yet in sight from our look-out. Our sick
list numbered about eleven, who were seriously ill, but many more were
complaining from rheumatism; but the hope, which was kept alive, of our
being succoured made them bear their pains patiently. Mustered our arms
as usual, and prepared and lighted the signal fires on the hills. The
evening proved dark and foggy.
_July 2._--Wind N.W. and N. The weather remained thick, with rain
at times. Nothing visible in the offing: and our hope of seeing the
schooner at an end. As the weather permitted, the crew were occupied
in preparing wood for the camp and hill fires. A supply of potatoes
arrived from the northward for us, and proved most seasonable, as our
stock was nearly exhausted. One addition was made to our sick list; Mr.
Lane, the assistant surgeon, was amongst the seriously ill with fever.
A portion of clothing, &c., was dried by fire during the day. The
weather cleared towards evening, and at intervals the moon was seen,
which, for a length of time, with us, had been a rare occurrence.
_July 3._--Wind north-westerly and calm; the morning thick and foggy,
but inclined to clear at times on the horizon at sea, with a prospect
of better weather. At 1 30′ P.M. two guns were distinctly heard from
the look-out hill, by the captain and several officers who were there,
in the south direction, and apparently not more distant than six or
eight miles. Several of us walked along the cliff bordering on the
sea, for some miles to the southward, watching anxiously for the
weather to clear away, and discover a sail; but nothing was seen. The
mice continued our enemies, and habit in their case did not overcome
the annoyance they were to us; at night particularly, in disturbing
our sleep. One of the sentinels was taken ill to-day on his post. No
further increase of our sick list. A party of the officers gathered
enough wild turnip-tops for our mess dinner, which proved very
acceptable. At sunset, discharged arms and cannonade, and reloaded for
the night. All anxiously looking for some relief. A part of our stock
of blue lights was placed in the hut on the hill, in case they might be
wanted as signals to any ship appearing at sea.
_July 4._--Wind light and westerly. This was the first clear morning
we had witnessed for many days, and it cheered us to see once again the
sunshine. Some more turnip-tops were gathered for our dinner to-day on
the hills; this, though apparently trifling, was in our situation very
acceptable. Discharged arms as usual at sunset, and reloaded for the
night.
An altitude obtained to-day on the sand at the entrance of the Leubu
gave us a latitude of 37° 36′ S., which proved to be many miles north
of our situation as shown on the old Spanish chart. A tolerable haul of
fish was got outside the river. The crew busily employed in airing and
drying their clothes and bedding, and in holding themselves prepared
at any moment to embark; orders to that effect having been given for
some days past, as well as preparations made for moving our baggage
from the camp to the pier. The necessity of separating our sick from
their companions, who were still in health, caused us to set about
erecting a large hut in imitation of that of the Indians, endeavouring,
if possible, to thatch it in a similar manner with the common rushes
that grow in great abundance very near us, and thus afford to the
sick shelter from the rains. To this end the united strength of our
carpenters and the greater part of our crew was employed in felling
trees of a convenient size to form uprights for the sides and rafters,
for the purpose of a good sloping roof; cutting and collecting also the
rushes for thatch; and so earnestly did we set about the work, that
the whole frame of the hut, which was secured together with strands of
rope-yarns, was near its completion by the evening. Several flocks of
parrots visited us this morning, and continued their flight and noise
round our camp for some hours: two of them were shot. Don Bernardino
complained to us of the difficulty he found in getting a supply of
potatoes, arising from the great distance they had to be brought, and
in many instances the ravages committed on the crops by the mice. Our
sick list remained stationary; several of the crew were in a weak
state, and with the assistant-surgeon and three midshipmen were most
seriously ill, with what now looked like typhus fever. At sunset went
through our daily muster; the weather cloudy, but dry; wind light and
variable.
_July 5_.--The wind light from the southward, and the weather clear.
At 7 30′ A.M. a sail was reported in sight from the look-out on the
hill: this joyful sound opened the ears of all; and when, after a most
anxious examination, through the few glasses we possessed, she was
pronounced to be a man-of-war, it was received by a cheer throughout
the camp, and every heart expanded with joy at the gladdening prospect
at length opened to us. Large fires were lighted on the hill, and
all possible demonstration made to show our position. About 10 A.M.
we had the satisfaction of making out His Majesty’s ship Blonde,
and observing her hoist her colours, and fire two guns as a signal
that we were seen. Orders were now given to prepare for embarkation;
all hands were therefore employed in removing to the pier our heavy
baggage, in which we were much expedited by our having made several
sledges adapted to this purpose, and dragged by the crew. Towards noon
four boats were seen to leave the Blonde, but the distance they had
to row prevented their reaching our little landing place inside the
entrance of the river until it was too late to risk any embarkation.
The first boat that arrived brought our tried friend Captain Fitzroy,
who, agreeing with Captain Seymour on the propriety of deferring our
operations until daylight next morning, immediately returned to the
Blonde to communicate to Commodore Mason the arrangement that had been
made, fortunately getting to the ship soon after dark, taking with him
a second boat’s crew of the Challenger’s men, to supply the place of
those who were to remain on shore with the three boats, which we had
hauled up on the banks of the Leubu, and secured for the night. Captain
Seymour had also sent an officer with Captain Fitzroy, to give to the
Commodore every information he might require as to our condition and
readiness for embarkation.
During the day there arrived on the north bank of the Leubu a guard of
thirty infantry from Arauco, under the command of an officer, sent by
the authorities there to be at our service: however, as most happily
our period of encampment was about to be put an end to, they bivouacked
on the opposite bank of the river, the officer crossing and taking up
his quarters with us, and receiving our thanks for his exertions in our
cause, and a letter from the Consul to the government authorities at
Arauco, expressive of our warm acknowledgment for their kind attention
towards us. Some showers of rain fell in the evening, but the night
promised fair and clear weather.
_July 6._--Wind S.E., with clear weather. Nothing could have happened
more providentially for us than the favourable manner in which we were
this day circumstanced with regard to the wind and weather, and which
permitted the Blonde at 9 A.M. to anchor off the point below our signal
hill. We had at daylight launched and loaded the Blonde’s three boats,
and immediately despatched them; had struck the tents, lashed up our
bedding and clothing, and brought all to the pier, ready to put into
the boats as they arrived.
Many of the sick were sent off in the fastest rowing boat of those
which were first despatched. Towards the middle of the day, the
Commodore landed and visited the remains of our camp, and by 6 P.M.
every one, with the whole of our baggage, was embarked, the last two
boats having taken off the Captain, Mr. Rouse the Consul, and five
officers with the marines, who had, as consistent with our previous
system of caution, been retained to the last as a rear-guard, and
only discharged their muskets as they left the scene of our long and
cheerless encampment.
It can fall to the lot of few to experience the varied sensations
occasioned by our sudden transition to a man-of-war, and our
restoration to those comforts to which we had so long been strangers;
allied, it is to be hoped, with thankful hearts to the Almighty for
the abundant mercies vouchsafed towards us. We shall long cherish
recollections of the very kind attentions paid by the officers of the
Blonde to our wants and comforts. We were under weigh soon after dusk
for Concepçion.
_July 7._--When about to enter the port of Concepçion, we observed
a schooner to leeward, under jury-masts: on going to her relief she
proved to be the Carmen, which the Commodore had despatched from this
port to our assistance. In her way to the Leubu, that river being
incorrectly laid down in the chart, she had run past it; and having
been dismasted in a heavy squall, and drifted into the current which
had proved fatal to the Challenger, was for some time in danger of
sharing her fate on the Isle of Mocha. The Blonde towed her into
Talcuhuana Bay, where and at Concepçion we were eyewitnesses to
the wide-spreading devastation occasioned by the late earthquake.
The Commodore, with Captains Seymour and Fitzroy, made visits to the
Chilian authorities at Concepçion, for the purpose of thanking them for
the attentions and assistance we had experienced, connected with our
shipwreck.
An old English inhabitant of the city of Concepçion described the
earthquake as having taken place at a time when he was in the street
fronting his house, overlooking the labour of some workmen in building
a wall that was to enclose it. It was a clear sunny morning, and about
twenty minutes after eleven: he suddenly found himself unable to stand
from the heaving of the earth, which increased so much that he fell
to the ground; and there, on his knees and hands to steady himself,
he remained in a dense cloud of dust, which precluded the possibility
of seeing any of the surrounding objects, until the first dreadful
shock had passed. The shrieks and cries of the inhabitants, which had
accompanied the destruction of the city, continued to be heard far and
near; and the scene which presented itself, on the clearing of the dust
caused by the falling of the buildings, was one of the most appalling
desolation. Parents and children, relations and friends, were searching
for each other in that distraction of mind which terror, anxiety, and
apprehension for their safety at such a calamitous moment created. Not
a building remained standing of the late city of Concepçion: high and
low, rich and poor, were mingled in an overwhelming destruction. The
ruins of a church and a convent, erected by the old Spaniards on a most
magnificent and substantial scale, and which had withstood for ages
the frequent shocks of previous earthquakes, with which the southern
continent of America is so peculiarly afflicted, were scattered on
all sides, and presented to the beholder a most striking and fearful
assurance of the vanity, as well as the instability, of all that is
created by the hand of man.
At Talcuhuana, the village which is situated on the border of the bay
forming the anchorage for shipping, communicating with Concepçion,
and about six miles from that city, the sea rose between thirty and
forty feet, and came in, in one great wave immediately following the
movement of the earth; landed a schooner at the back of the houses; and
retiring, swept every thing before it; the inhabitants only escaping
to the hills with their lives. Numerous articles were found on an
island at the entrance of the bay of Talcuhuana, twelves miles distant
from the village; and, most singular to relate, amongst them, lying on
a sandy beach, was a large window frame, recognised by its owner, with
the sash and glass unbroken. Several volcanos were seen to rise outside
the bay, which, after burning with violence for twenty minutes or more,
sank again below the surface of the water.
Our informant was a man of seventy-five years, married, but had no
family; he had experienced, in the course of his long life, the most
severe reverses of fortune; and had retired from the coast of Peru,
with the little resources his labours had allowed him to collect, to
end his days on a small spot of ground he had purchased in the city
of Concepçion. With the destruction of the city perished the greatest
portion of his property; yet, despite of such a misfortune, there was
visible that beautiful contentedness of mind which is alone to be
derived from an acquiescence in whatever affliction the hand of the
Almighty is pleased to send us. It must not be omitted to mention,
that Mrs. ----, the wife of this gentleman, recovering from the panic
of fear, got out from the ruins of their house a part of that day’s
dinner, which was eaten, in thankfulness and tranquillity, under a tree
in the court-yard adjoining the remains of their dwelling.
The effects of this calamitous earthquake were not confined to the
immediate neighbourhood of Concepçion, but were also particularly
severe at the island of Juan Fernandez, distant 300 miles in a W.N.W.
direction. The sea, there, advanced as in Talcuhuana Bay, and totally
destroyed the few buildings which were in the occupation of the
military governor and Chilian garrison. On the sea retiring, a volcano
rose in the anchorage, and continued burning for some time. It was also
reported that the island had sunk many feet below its former level.
The island of Santa Maria, situated near the spot of the Challenger’s
wreck, was found, on examination, to have been upheaved ten feet; and
the anchorage which had previously existed between it and the main land
was no longer considered safe.
On the 9th we sailed from Concepçion, taking leave of Mr. Rouse,
our worthy Consul, who left us, carrying with him the warm esteem
and respect of all. During the whole time since his entering into
communication with us, we had benefited by his able services:
added to his official tact, his urbanity and kind disposition had
endeared him to all classes; and should his assistance be called for
under a calamity similar to our own, the unfortunate will find an
efficient friend in the British Consul at Concepçion. After touching
at Valparaiso, where two of our sick companions were sent to sick
quarters, and performing the melancholy duty of burying Mr. Lane, the
assistant-surgeon, who had sunk under the effects of typhus fever,
the officers and part of the Challenger’s crew embarked on board His
Majesty’s ship Convoy at Coquimbo; whence we sailed on the 22d July,
cheered by the Blonde, and our own pleasing anticipations of soon
meeting the congratulations of our friends, and the sympathy of our
generous countrymen.
Including our stay of one week at Rio de Janeiro, we completed
our passage to Spithead in eighty-four days, during which the
inconveniences of a crowded ship were obviated by the attentions to
our accommodation, and the arrangements kindly made by Captain Eden.
Amongst the sick during this period, of whom the young gentlemen formed
a large portion, Mr. Fry, a supernumerary clerk, died; the others, with
a few exceptions, shortly became convalescent.
The misfortune of the Challenger may not be without a moral bearing.
Our costly experience may prove useful to future navigators upon this
dangerous coast. With the civilised portion of the inhabitants of a
country of growing commercial importance, the British character has
been upheld; and the many relics of our disaster left with the rude
natives, during our long sojourn amongst them, will tend to perpetuate
the event; and in their remote traditions may figure, as a leading
tale, the fate of the “Desafiador,” and the adventures of her crew on
the plains of Molquilla.
It remains but to add the result of the Court Martial, which was
held on the 19th of October, on board His Majesty’s ship Victory,
at Portsmouth harbour, by order of the Lords Commissioners of the
Admiralty, for the trial of Captain Seymour, the officers, and crew of
His Majesty’s late ship Challenger, for their conduct in the loss of
that ship.
The sentence pronounced on that occasion, so honourable to the feelings
of all, was as follows:--
“The Court is of opinion, that the cause of the loss of His Majesty’s
late ship Challenger was by the ship being then by an unusual and
unexpected current, set between noon of the 17th of May last to the
time of her wreck, on the 19th of the same month, thirty-four miles
of latitude to the southward, which latitude, by dead reckoning,
up to the time of taking the sights, being used to work the sights
of the chronometer, on the morning of the 19th of May, placed the
ship sixty miles to the N.W. of her actual position at that time.
The Court is further of opinion, that no blame whatever is attached
to Captain Michael Seymour, nor to the said John MacDonald, nor
to any of the officers or ship’s company of His Majesty’s late
ship Challenger, on the occasion of the loss of the said ship; and
the Court doth therefore _fully acquit_ the said Captain Michael
Seymour, the said Mr. J. MacDonald, and the surviving officers and
ship’s company of His Majesty’s said late ship Challenger, and they
are hereby fully acquitted accordingly. The Court cannot close its
proceedings without expressing the high sense it entertains of the
conduct of Captain Michael Seymour, his surviving officers and ship’s
company, when placed in circumstances of the greatest danger, as
well as afterwards during a period of seven weeks that they remained
on a wild and inhospitable coast, strongly marking the advantages
of that steady discipline that has raised the British navy to the
confidence of the country, and which, in this instance (as well as
in many others), has been the cause of the preservation of the lives
and health of the crew, and of their arrival, with two melancholy
exceptions, in safety to their own country.”
The President then rose and said, “Captain Seymour, I have much
pleasure in returning you your sword, and may you continue to wear it
with honour to yourself and advantage to your country.--Mr. MacDonald,
I have equal pleasure in returning you yours.”