N.W. A few Indians made their appearance at the camp, bringing, tied
to their saddles, some nets of potatoes and apples for barter: also
Rafael Lobo, with a present to the captain of some avellanos (a species
of nut, the kernels of which the Indians roast, and are not unlike a
small chesnut); and to establish a claim of some reward, for having
given us his protection and assistance against the hostile Indians at
Molquillo, as he then had assumed the command of the armed Indians,
and had sent spies out to the southward. The seine, which had been
carefully preserved, and brought to the Leubu, was this day tried in
the river, but with no great success. At night, we afterwards found
the attempts were more productive of luck. The few fish we caught were
highly acceptable. The crew’s employment for this day was draining the
ground round their tents; a party bringing stones from the beach at the
entrance of the river, to lay as a footpath through the camp,--the rain
having rendered it almost impossible to walk, from the swampy state
of the ground; and in cutting down trees to form a barricade round
the encampment. The greatest regularity was observed in the hours of
breakfast, dinner, supper; and such issues of provisions made as the
state of our store-tent, and the destruction of the mice, would permit.
We had brought the ship’s bell with us, which was under the charge of
the sentinel posted at the entrance of our camp, and who struck it
regularly on receiving the time from the officer on guard. The lights
in the ship’s company’s tents were reported as put out every night at
8, and the midshipmen and warrant officers’ at 9. None of the crew were
allowed to go outside the barricade after 6 P.M. Having some spare
canvass, with abundance of timber surrounding us, two tents were put
up in the form of a house, with a good sloping roof, which we covered,
and used, one as a mess tent for the Captain and officers, the other
for the warrant officers and midshipmen. This description of tent we
found superior in point of dryness to the usual form, and, after a
short interval, others were put up by the officers: one was occupied
by the captain, and shared with Mr. Sarjeant; and in another were four
or five of the officers. However, though each day saw some of us
endeavouring to give dryness to our habitation, the damp and wet proved
unconquerable.
Signor Sylva made himself very useful to us, whenever his authority
with the Chilinos or friendly Indians was called for. He expressed
great satisfaction at being associated with British officers after
a service of twenty-three years, a part of which time he had been
campaigning against the Araucanian Indians. He related to us many
histories of their undaunted courage, as well as some cruel acts of
treachery which they had been guilty of towards the Chilinos, by
deceiving them in an assurance of a friendly disposition towards Chili.
The information which Signor Sylva gave, together with that from other
sources, put the Indian population at about 40,000: scattered over a
vast tract of country, mustering 8000 fighting men, but rarely bringing
against the Chilinos more than from 2000 to 3000 at any one time.
On examining and taking an account of our stores, baggage, and
provisions, the cunning of the Indians proved to have been too much
for us. We discovered that there had been a great number of articles
plundered on the road from Molquilla, particularly clothing and small
parcels of private property. They had also attempted to secrete a
cask of spirits, by dropping it in the woods, and not making their
appearance at the camp. We, however, sent a party out, and, with a few
mules, found the rum, and brought it away in small barrels.
On a high headland, immediately above the camp, we erected a
flag-staff, on which we kept a flag constantly flying, and a strict
look-out to seaward. This hill had a commanding view, not only of the
sea, but over the surrounding country, including the river and camp;
and was peculiarly adapted to our purpose, as a spot to establish our
look-out. The ascent to it from the camp was abrupt and laborious,
though only at a short distance. It was to be got at more easily by
making a little circuit through the wood in the rear of us. The timber
which composed the forests with which we were encircled was principally
myrtle and evergreen oaks, and of great variety. Large tracts of land
were free from timber; and the soil was filled with various bulbous
roots, several specimens of grasses, abundance of strawberry plants,
and an infinity of flowering shrubs and creepers.
The lateness of the season unfortunately prevented our seeing in flower
much of what has been enumerated. On the north side of the river a
plain extended to the hills, on which were several patches of maize
growing, and a herd of horses and a few sheep grazing. Two Indian huts
were also situated there, the inmates of which attended to the care of
the stock and labour of the cultivated parts.
This plain was rented by a Chilian of Arauco from the Indian
proprietor. The land is exceedingly rich; and, whenever the time
arrives that Chili is able to extend her authority over the Indian
territory, the result of even a moderate attention to agricultural
pursuits must prove most beneficial. At present, the system pursued by
the Chilian farmer, who is fully alive to the value of the Indian land,
is, by fair means and persuasion, or bribery, to induce the caciques
to allow him to rent his land, which they do for a mere trifle; the
only use now made of it is as a run, for the increase of their cattle,
which is the most important part of a Chilian land-owner’s property,--a
Chilino’s riches being estimated in proportion to the number of cattle
he possesses. The price of a bullock is about sixteen dollars. The
policy of the government of Chili appears to be, to exterminate the
race of Indians, and get forcible possession of the whole country south
of their present frontier. In some instances the caciques have allowed
a sale of a portion of their land, on obtaining the consent of their
neighbours; but there exists a great jealousy of their doing so. The
mice continued their destructive and annoying visits.
The morning after our first detachment had reached the banks of the
Rio Leubu, one of the boys, furnished with a tin pot, sought out a
spring of fresh water, which ran at the foot of the slope on which we
were entrenching ourselves, for the purpose of drinking. An Indian
rode up, and earnestly supplicated, by signs, his desire to drink. The
boy handed the tin to him, which he no sooner got possession of, than
he turned his horse, galloped off, and, swimming the river, was soon
lost sight of amongst the opposite hills. At Molquilla, many articles
thrown from the wreck, when washed on shore, were taken off the beach,
under the ponchos of the Indians. The cunning mode in which they loaded
themselves was very characteristic: they were seen to get off their
horses, and lay down by the side of the longed-for object, which they
gradually gathered up under their ponchos, and secured possession of by
mounting their horses and galloping off to the hills.
_Wednesday, June 10._--Fair quiet weather: the crew employed in
strengthening our barricade, draining the camp, cutting wood, and
drying their beds and clothing. The damp from the ground in our tents
was very great, and some few complaints of rheumatism were heard. At 6
30′ A.M. we had a very severe shock of an earthquake. We saw but few
Indians at our present camp, as compared with the numbers who used to
surround us at Molquilla. As duty permitted, the officers were allowed
to go out with their guns, by which we benefited in a supply of game
for our mess, which was highly acceptable; and the important objects
of a diversion of mind and health were gained by exercise over the
surrounding country. We began to feel uneasy at not hearing, from some
quarter, of a chance of relief; but we had been told by our friend Mr.
Rouse, the Consul, on his first joining us, that we ought to make up
our minds to pass the winter where we were, knowing the impassable
state of the country at this season of the year lying between us
and Concepçion, as well as Santiago; and hence a difficulty of
communication with those to whom we might look for succour. At noon, a
party of officers crossed the river in a balsa, which had been brought
by the consul, with the hope of its being useful to us. They shot over
the country north of us with tolerable success. Amongst the occupations
for the crew, was the construction of a pier or wharf at the entrance
of the river, by filling up the space between some scattered rocks;
and intended to facilitate our embarkation, whenever that wished-for
event might occur. The look-out hill was kept constantly occupied, and
reports made regularly from it by the midshipmen stationed there. The
mice continued most troublesome: the little bread we had left decreased
every night from their visits, as well as our supply of sugar and
peas; nor did the tents or clothing escape. It was difficult to get
sleep at night in consequence of their rambles. No plan could prevent
their getting into our beds, not even when raised on stakes, or in a
cot slung off the ground. Their feet were formed like a lizard’s, and
enabled them to climb in all directions, and along the smallest line
or bough of a tree. Covered mole buttons seemed greatly to attract
them, and one night would suffice them to run off with any number. In
our inquiries of the natives, and others around us, as to the cause
of such myriads of mice, we were told that the Indians supposed it
originated from the effects of the late earthquake; having a tradition
of a similar result on a former convulsion of the earth. Our supplies
of potatoes and poultry were become scanty, from having consumed all
that the immediate neighbourhood could furnish; it was become necessary
to send to a distance for what could be collected. Don Bernardino
procured for us two bullocks. The produce of our guns often formed a
large part of our dinner: we were quite safe from want, having a good
supply of salt beef and pork; our bread was, however, almost consumed,
and we could only serve out to all one quarter of the daily allowance
(a quarter of a pound). This shortly failed us, and potatoes became the
substitute.
_June 12._--The wind southerly, and fine weather. The crew airing
clothing and beds, completing our pier, cutting wood for the cooks,
and clearing the camp. A party of the officers shot over the country
surrounding us, to the southward, with tolerable success; bringing in
several partridges, snipes, and a few widgeons. At 5 P.M. the captain
received, by way of Arauco, through the governor there, a letter
from Lieutenant Collins, stating his inability to procure any vessel
to come to our relief, and his intention to take an opportunity of
returning with his guide to rejoin us at the Leubu, as he could get no
intelligence whatever relative to the movements of any man-of-war on
the coast. This was disheartening; but, as letters had been despatched
to Santiago, we hoped, through the medium of the Chilian government,
soon to have some satisfactory communication. Towards evening, after
the usual muster of the arms had been gone through, a tolerably
successful haul of the seine was got.
_June 13._--The morning cloudy, the wind northerly; the tents very
damp: a few small fires were lighted in, and at the entrance of, some
of them, to endeavour to dry them. The caciques Cheuquante and Rafael
Lobo paid us a visit to see what they could get from us, bringing an
offering of some avellanos, which was their usual _bait_. They gave us
the account of Pinoleo having killed the wife we saw at Molquilla. We
this day received the two boat cannonades, which we had dismounted,
and put in charge of some of the Chilino party, to be dragged over
to us by four bullocks: they were now mounted one at each end of our
encampment. The crew variously employed, cutting wood and stacking it
on the flag-staff hill for signal-fires, and about the barricade round
the camp. A small vessel was this day seen, from the hill, in the
offing, passing to the southward. The weather, towards night, became
dark and threatening, and the wind fresh in gusts from the northward.
_June 14._--Strong winds from the northward, with heavy rain, which
continued throughout the day, wetting the tents very much and causing
excessive damp. The people employed in endeavouring to make better
shelter for themselves. At 5 P.M. less rain, but moist and foggy: a
good deal of surf falling into the bay below us outside the river. In
the evening, mustered as usual. The weather cleared towards night, but
continued to threaten more rain.
_June 15._--Heavy rain during the night; wind about N.N.W., 8 A.M. The
weather clearing, the Captain wrote a letter, which was forwarded to
Concepçion, through the governor of Arauco, by a Chilino going in that
direction, addressed to the senior or any naval officer; stating our
situation, the ill success of Lieutenant Collins in hiring a vessel,
and begging immediate relief. Repaired our flag on the hill, which the
strong wind had blown away. As the weather permitted, all hands airing
and drying clothes and bedding. The mice very troublesome, though we
calculated that we destroyed at least 500 daily. The weather became
squally towards the evening, with rain, thunder, and lightning.
_June 16._--A bright morning, which was gladly hailed by all, and
eager advantage taken of it to air and dry the numerous wet articles
throughout the camp. Our small boat, the Dingy, had been dragged over
from Molquilla, and was of great use on the river. It accidentally got
adrift to-day, with a man in her, who, without the paddles, was carried
past the entrance of the river, by the rapid current setting out, and
narrowly escaped being dashed to pieces, by the surf, on the rocks
outside: she was, however, secured eventually without any bad result.
Mustered under arms at sunset; discharged and reloaded them, as well as
the cannonades. At 6 30′ P.M. Lieutenant Collins arrived, with
a guide, on the opposite side of the river, whence we sent the balsa,
and brought him over. The only information he brought was, a report
that a man-of-war was expected at Valparaiso, where she would hear of
our disaster, and, doubtless, take steps for our immediate succour.
Several rats, of the opossum species, were seen about the camp, and a
young one taken.
_June 17._--Fine weather; the wind light and variable. Employed the
crew in various ways; drying clothes, cutting wood, and ditching to
drain the ground in front of the camp. A strong shooting party started
over the hills above us, to the southward. At 8 P.M., the officer of
the watch having reported that five guns were heard to seaward, and
being ever anxious to attract the attention of any one passing near, to
show our position, we fired five shot from our cannonades, accompanying
each with a rocket, and lighted a large fire on the hill, where we also
burnt a blue light: nothing, however, was seen, though many of us ran
to the hill, in all haste, to discover the supposed sail; we therefore
concluded that the noise of the sea on the rocks, below the hill, might
have given rise to the mistake.
_June 18._--Fine weather, with light variable winds. All hands employed
in airing and drying bedding, &c., and as otherwise necessary. A party
were despatched to reconnoitre the state of the wreck, which was found
much displaced, from the effects of the late gales; and the flat, on
which our camp had stood, showed marks of having been much overflowed.
Many Indians were searching round the wreck, and stared hard at our
party: they had their horses ready to decamp. Nothing in sight from
our look-out hill. The glories of Waterloo were this day not forgotten
by us, even in this wild and distant spot; the health of the Duke
of Wellington being drank, with cheers, in the officers’ tent. Our
companion, Signor Sylva, the Chilian major of Arauco, had heard of
Napoleon and of the Duke of Wellington, and was quite eloquent on this
occasion.
_June 19._--Fine morning; wind variable. Mustered; examined, and took
an account of the ship’s company’s clothing and bedding. The store-tent
was this day examined, and an attack made on the mice. A shooting party
went out to try the ground on the south bank of the Leubu; which, about
a league from the entrance, begins to be thickly wooded on each side,
presenting some very picturesque windings. On the tops of the hills
overhanging the river, the views, inland, are very extended; and ranges
of hills can be traced, till lost amongst the chain of the Andes; but
not a vestige of a habitation is to be seen. A Chilino was detected,
to-day, in attempting to introduce a strong spirit, peculiar to the
province of Arauco, into the camp; and, knowing the threat which the
Captain had, through Signor Sylva, held out against such a transaction,
attempted to make his escape across the river; but his horse, being
tired, failed him: the skin of spirits was, therefore, taken possession
of, and emptied in the mud. Nothing in sight from the hill. The bay
below us being smooth, the Dingy was sent out to sound, and found
a depth of water for anchorage from nineteen to five fathoms, in a
direction between the two points which formed it. The seine was hauled
outside the river, and several fine fish, of the carbinu tribe, taken.
_June 20._--Dark and cloudy weather, with showers of rain. Employed
the ship’s company in making a road to the pier, laying on stones, and
ditching it on each side. Though our sick list had happily continued
low in number, there were many amongst the crew who were suffering
from rheumatic attacks, the effects of the constant exposure to damp.
Another reconnoisance was made of the wreck, which continued much as
it had been in the former visit. Many Indians, strangers to us, from
the southward, were engaged in examining it. The annoyance of the
mice continued incessant, frequently obliging the crew to rise in the
night to drive them from their beds, and preventing the possibility of
getting rest. A few fish were again taken in the evening. At night, the
weather moderate and cloudy: wind N.W.
_June 21._--Cloudy, foggy morning. Mustered the crew by the open
list. The Consul despatched a man to Concepçion, _viâ_ Arauco, with
letters. A brig hove in sight this morning from the signal-post; but,
though we used all our endeavours to attract her attention, they were
unsuccessful; and we had the disappointment of losing sight of her at
dusk. The night promised to be calm and quiet.
_June 22._--Moderate and cloudy weather, with an appearance of rain:
the wind northerly. The crew employed road-making, and clearing up our
camp. The Captain and a party of officers crossed the river; rode to
the opposite point of the bay, to see a curious cavern, known to the
Indians as having formerly given shelter to the notorious pirate and
rebel, Benivedes, and his party, and who were for some time succoured
by them against the wrath of the Chilian forces. The road to this cave
was a difficult one, through an almost impassable wood, and down a
steep declivity from the hills above it. It was large, and sufficiently
spacious to contain 1000 or 1500 men.
The party, on their return, visited the Indians in the huts on the
plain north of the river; and succeeded, under the authority and
assistance of Sylva, in extracting from them a couple of fine turkeys,
with which they returned to the camp: they sat some time in the
huts, and got some well-roasted potatoes from the inmates. A mother,
half naked, was suckling her naked infant; and poultry and dogs were
moving about in all directions: a pile of maize straw was heaped, in a
particular form, on one side, which appeared to be the sleeping place
for the whole party, and common to all, and very dirty. The influence
of Don Bernardino had procured us the luxury of milk; several cows
having been driven down and swam across the river, and established at
the huts immediately below our encampment, near the entrance of the
Leubu, in one of which resided the old Indian proprietor of the ground
which we were on.
_June 23._--It blew a gale of wind from the northward during the night,
with heavy rain, causing a good deal of surf to roll into the bay. It
continued raining hard till towards the evening, when it became foggy,
with less wind. The crew suffered much from the wet state of their
tents and clothing, and the confinement occasioned by the rains. The
want of warm clothing was much felt: every possible substitute was
resorted to; one of which was, the turning the blankets of those who
were fortunate enough to possess one into ponchos, by putting the head
through a hole cut in the middle, and which, with the addition of a
belt, was the usual dress of the sentinels and watch.
An occasional visit was made to our old Indian landlord, the landed
proprietor over many miles of land around us: his family consisted of
eight or ten in number of either sex, subject to his control; they
lived in what appeared to us great misery, dirt, and smoke, with mud
outside their hut a foot deep. A little ground maize, some shell fish,
or potatoes, appeared to form their food. Several small patches of
ground were cleared and tilled by them for raising grain and potatoes;
but during our stay little attention was paid to these objects.
Indolence is certainly allied to the character of the Indian. The
old proprietor was never met without receiving from him the friendly
sentence of salutation of “Mai, mai;” and in his manner, he appeared to
have a great respect towards us. Our tents felt the gale very much, and
the rain penetrated on all sides. The bay was also rough and unquiet,
with a good deal of surf breaking on the beach. The evening was cloudy,
with rain. At 11 30′ P.M. we were joyfully surprised by a hail from the
opposite bank of the river in our own language, which elated all with
a hope, that the time had now arrived when we might look for the means
of at length abandoning our tedious and comfortless encampment. The
Dingy was immediately launched, and passed over to the north side, and
returned with Captain Fitzroy, of his Majesty’s sloop Beagle, a German
pilot, a servant, and their guide. Captain Fitzroy, to whom we owe a
debt of great gratitude for his zealous exertions in our behalf, had
arrived at Concepçion in his Majesty’s ship Blonde, Commodore Mason,
C. B., and had volunteered to come overland, and take back to the
commodore a report of our situation. The state of weather, and season
of the year, had rendered his journey difficult and perilous, from the
unusually flooded state of several rivers which he had to pass on his
route. He had experienced many falls, from the difficulty of preserving
the path through the woods in the dark, during the latter part of his
journey.
We now heard that the Commodore had arrived at Concepçion on the 20th,
from Valparaiso, where our disaster had only been known on the 17th, a
month after the event: that he had hired, to despatch to our relief,
an American schooner (the Carmen) from Concepçion, and that we might
expect to see her off the Leubu in the course of a few days. We did
our best to find supper, a sleeping place, and dry clothes for Captain
Fitzroy and his companions. It is not to be sufficiently expressed how
much joy and cheerfulness was at once diffused throughout the camp.
Our relief we now looked forward to as near at hand.
_June 24._--It rained hard during the night, but towards morning it
cleared off. After examining the state of our situation, and consulting
with Captain Seymour as to the expediency of the Blonde’s immediately
proceeding to our assistance, Captain Fitzroy set off without delay on
his journey, to return to Concepçion, and was fortunately favoured by
an interval of fine weather.