manner as for the bow, Plate 8, in which the twisting string will be
fastened later. Lash the middle of the bow to a point 7" from the top of
the spine. In the slots, put the cord which goes around the kite,
measuring carefully to keep the two sides the same size. Sew a piece of
colored cambric over the kite. Tie the middle of a strong cord 6-1/2
feet long to the filed notch at one end of the bow with three
half-hitches, as shown in Plate 15. Pass one part of this cord around
the other notch, and fasten it in the same manner; then tie the two ends
together with a square knot. Make the dowel for twisting the two cords
on the back of the bow so as to bend the bow as desired. Into one end of
the dowel drive a small brad and file it sharp. How much to bend the bow
can be determined only by trying the kite. As the bow bends, the cloth
becomes looser, and it is this looseness of the cloth which so holds the
wind that the kite will fly without a tail. After twisting the cords
enough, slip them towards the end of the dowel away from the spur, and
rest the spur in the back of the spine.
Tie a string around both the top and the bottom ends of the spine for
the bridle. The flying-knot should come as far as the end of the bow;
or, some tie the lower end of the bridle about 14" from the lower end of
the spine, and make the flying-knot about 9" in front and 2" above the
bow.
BOX KITE--PLATE 15.
In a gale too strong for other kites, a box kite will fly safely. The
bridle is very easy to adjust, and the kite, tho somewhat more elaborate
than the others, is not difficult to make. Thin sticks like these can be
sawed from the edge of a straight-grained board. An easy way to make the
notches in the ends of the braces is to clamp them all in the vise at
once, flat surfaces together, and then saw them out with a back-saw.
This method presupposes that the uprights are all planed the same
thickness. If they are unequal in thickness, saw the notches as wide as
the thinnest upright and pare the others each to fit its proper upright.
In any construction like this, which has a number of parts fitting
together, it is well to number the adjacent parts so that they may be
put together again, each in its place. Little nicks are cut with a knife
on the four edges of the braces where the lashing is to be wound. When
all the sticks are fitted together, glue the braces to the uprights
4-3/8" from the ends; two frames are thus made just alike. The lashing
is done with large thread. Start it with two turns around the brace,
then once around the upright, then once around the brace, then again
around the upright, and so continue. The last few turns should be around
the brace. See that the thread goes from the brace to the upright in the
way most favorable for holding. When all the lashing is done, measure
the center of each brace. Put one frame thru the other, and drive a pin
thru the two centers. Now the frames must be brought to a 14-1/2" square
by means of strong thread. Near the top of one upright tie a 6 ft.
thread, leaving a short end. Simply wind the long end twice around each
upright, and tie the end with a bow-knot until all sides of the square
can be measured and adjusted. When all sides are equal, make the
bow-knot into a square knot. Wind some thread around each upright,
except the first, in such a manner as to hold the long thread securely.
Now adjust the other end of the kite in the same way. Measure 8-3/4"
from the ends of each upright and put other threads around the square.
These can be fastened at each upright after the first by three
half-hitches.
The kite may be covered either with cloth or paper. If cloth is used,
the edges should be hemmed. If paper, lay it on the floor, put glue on
each upright, then press the paper to one upright. Wrap the paper around
the kite and wind string around it several times to hold it while
adjusting and pressing each corner. Glue the ends of the paper next,
pulling them as tight as possible. Two flat-irons will hold the ends
while drying. After the paper is on, its edges should be strengthened
with a narrow ribbon of cloth glued to it.
Tie the bridle strings just above and below the upper cell and have the
flying-knot 5" in front of the end of the brace.
KITE-STRING SAILBOAT--PLATE 16.
To send messages up to his kite, many a boy has made a hole in a piece
of paper and watched that go sailing up his anchor line. This sailboat
will do that, and other things too, and come spinning down again to take
another message. A parachute, made of a paper napkin, having a 12"
thread running to each corner and a nail for ballast tied where the four
threads are knotted together, can be sent up by this messenger,
released, and allowed to float down from a great height. Paper gliders
sent up this way will do many "stunts" before they reach ground. Fold a
flimsy paper napkin in such a way as to hold a bunch of confetti with a
pin thru only three or four thicknesses of the napkin. This can be tied
to the keel and the pin withdrawn by the release and fall of a nail,
and, behold, a shower of confetti! Be sure the falling nail will do no
injury where it strikes.
A light, frail model like this will require considerable time and
patience to make and adjust so that it will work. Make the hull and
posts from a stick about 13" long. Bore the 3/16" holes for the mast and
keel, the former a little to the left (port, a sailor would say) of the
center and 2-1/2" from the bow, the latter in the center 2" from the
stern. Make the wheels of the ends of spools by sawing them off just
where the straight portion begins, and glueing them together on a hard
dowel. Very accurately find their centers and drill holes for 1" brads
which form their axles. Drive these into the post so that the wheels run
very freely. Do not nail the posts to the hull till the wire parts have
been put in place. Make three staples of pins and drive them in the
bottom of the hull so that a fine wire will just slide thru them easily.
Three are used so that the wire will always be held straight. Next make
the two eyes which hold the kite-string under the wheels. Coiled around
once and a half, the coils must be separated enough to allow the string
to slip between. The safety of the model, swinging violently high in the
air, depends upon these eyes. They can be driven thru small, tight holes
and bent on the under side to make them secure. They must be just high
enough to allow the string to run free. The forward one is elongated
because the kite-string slants upward so much. Bend the 4" wire trigger
three times around a brad driven in a piece of wood for convenience. To
handle wire readily for such work as this, two pliers will be found
useful. Saw a notch in the bow just wide enough for this coil. Now glue
and nail the posts in position.
[Illustration: KITE-STRING SAILBOAT
PLATE 16]
Make the mast, all the spars, in fact, smaller at the outer end. Rig it
completely before gluing the mast in place. Be sure that the booms will
swing _over_ the forward wheel, so as not to interfere with its easy
running. The sails should be of light cloth. The booms and the gaffs
(see Plate 30 for names of parts) must swing freely on the mast, so as
to fold together when the trigger is released. For the main-sheets, use
thread tied with a long loop to slip over the fine wire part of the
trigger. A cork 1-1/4" in diameter, slit to the center, can be put on
the kite-string far enough from the kite to be safe from any entangling.
On the keel, fasten ballast enough (about 1 oz.) to make the sailboat
ride upright.
THE HYGROSCOPE OR WEATHER COTTAGE--PLATE 17.
This model serves to indicate the humidity (dampness) of the air. It
consists of the house, turntable, and figures, the turntable being
suspended on a violin string. The violin string absorbs moisture from
the air and untwists, thus causing the man to come out; when the air
become dry the string twists tighter, thus causing the woman to come
out. The model should be placed out doors but not exposed to rain or
sun.
The arches of the doorways may be made with a big bit (1-3/8") or a
scroll saw. If a bit is used, bore a hole for the spur first, lest it
split the board. While boring hold the board vertically in the vise. The
portion cut off between the doorways can be sawed with the tip of the
back-saw if the board is laid flat on the bench-hook. The slanting lines
at the top, also, can be sawed while held down on the bench-hook. After
the front, back and sides are made, nail the back to the sides, but
screw the front. When this is done, put the house in the vise in an
upright position and plane the tops of the sides slanting. Notice that
one roof is wider than the other. Nail the narrower one first, with the
grain running from front to back. Do not drive nails into the front but
nail it securely at the back and side. Letting the plane rest on the
other side of the house, plane the upper edge of this roof slanting, so
that the other roof will fit. Nail this in place; set all nails; and
plane the upper edge of this roof slanting, letting the plane rest on
the first roof. Two brads may now be driven near the center of the
ridge-pole to hold the roofs together. After making the floor, place the
house in position on it (1/4" from back, 1/2" from ends) and draw a line
around the house. Remove the house; drive three brads straight down thru
the floor; pull them out and start them from the under side in the same
holes; then put the house in place again and drive the brads home. Put
in more brads to hold the house securely.
To make the chimney, saw a notch 3/16" deep in the end of a 3/4" square
stick. If it fits on the roof, bore a 5/16" hole thru its center, and
saw the chimney off 3/4" long. Glue it 3/8" from the front end of the
roof. When dry, bore the hole thru the roof. The chimney top with the
dowel attached to it below is made to revolve so that the Hygroscope may
be adjusted. To make the chimney top, bore a 1/4" hole into the end of a
1/2" dowel; then saw it off 1/2" and glue in the upper dowel. Make the
turntable somewhat round at each end. In the center of it, glue and nail
the lower dowel. Next, paint the house if desired. The violin string is
glued and wedged into holes in the upper and lower dowels so that the
turntable will swing 3/16" above the floor.
The man and woman may be made of cardboard, wood, clay, chalk or plaster
of Paris; or they can be bought at a toy store. Painted in bright colors
and shellacked, or varnished, they look well. They can be made to
balance on the turntable by adding a piece of lead. Of course, neither
they nor the turntable should touch any part of the house as they swing
around.
[Illustration: HYGROSCOPE
OR
WEATHER COTTAGE
PLATE 17]
ELECTROPHORUS--PLATE 18.
The electrophorus consists of two parts, a pan filled with a resinous
mixture, and a cover which has been completely covered with tinfoil.
Under favorable conditions, a spark of electricity 1/2" long can be
obtained from this electrophorus. The favorable conditions are these:
The air should be dry; both parts of the electrophorus should be warm,
dry, and clean; and the tinfoil and rosin should be perfectly flat, so
as to come in close contact with each other.
Make the pan and its sides as shown in Plate 18. Glue and nail the sides
in place and round their upper edges well with sandpaper. To make the
resinous mixture, melt a half teacup of rosin with two teaspoons of
turpentine and about the same of paraffin in a rather deep dish, and
pour the mixture into the pan. As all these materials are inflammable,
perhaps the safest place to melt them is in the oven. After the pan is
cold, test the surface of the rosin to see that it is flat every way. If
it is not flat, sandpaper the high parts slowly with coarse sandpaper.
When making the cover, observe the directions on page 20, then round the
edge to a good half-circle. Test the cover also to see that it is flat,
especially on its under side, for to get good sparks, the tinfoil and
rosin must come just as close together as possible. Cut two circles of
tinfoil 4-1/2" in diameter. Smooth them carefully on a piece of paper,
spread glue thinly on the cover, lay the tinfoil on the glue, and smooth
it with the fingers. Press the edges as smooth as possible because
electricity escapes easily from sharp corners. Cover the larger open
spaces with bits of tinfoil. Hard rubber (ebonite), being a
non-conductor of electricity, makes the best handle. A piece of an old
rubber comb or a fountain pen can be used for this purpose.
To get a spark of electricity, rub the rosin with soft leather, fur, or
woolen; place the cover on it; touch the top of the cover with the
finger (to remove the negative electricity); lift the cover by the top
of the handle; bring the edge of the cover near a finger, or other
conductor, and a spark will fly off with a snap. It is a miniature flash
of lightning. Some books on electricity describe many other experiments
which can be tried.
[Illustration: ELECTROPHORUS
PLATE 18]
WATERWHEEL--PLATE 19.
This waterwheel is designed to be placed in a flowing stream. A longer
trough might well lead the water into this one so as to get greater
speed.
Make the trough first, being careful to make a good fit where the sides
nail to the bottom. Nail the top 5" from the end where the wheel is
placed. The upper corners of the axle blocks are to be cut off 1". The
center of the 5/16" hole for the axle is 7/8" from the lower edge. When
nailing the axle blocks in place, put a dowel or lead pencil thru the
holes to help in nailing the blocks exactly opposite each other.
After sawing a board for the wheel 4-1/4" square, draw the diagonals and
diameters (cornerwise and crosswise, that means) to divide it into eight
parts. Draw a 4" circle for the wheel and a 3-1/4" circle to mark the
depth of the notches for the paddles. Shape the wheel. (See page 20 for
directions.) Test it with the trysquare to keep the edge square with the
flat surface. Bore a 1/4" hole in the center with the greatest care, or
the wheel will wobble sidewise. The notches are cut with the back-saw
alone. One-eighth of an inch to one side of the eight lines across the
circle, saw straight down to the inner circle. Be careful to hold the
saw square with the wheel. After this saw cut is made, measure the width
of the notch by holding the edge of a paddle so as just to cover the saw
cut, and, with a knife point make a dot at the other side of the paddle.
Holding the trysquare against one side of the wheel and the inner edge
of its blade over the dot, score a knife line across the edge of the
wheel. Then saw straight down again _inside_ this knife line. Saw
cornerwise a few times and the wood will be removed sufficiently. The
notches may better be too small than too large, for the paddles can be
planed thinner to fit. Clean the wheel with the plane before nailing the
paddles. All these paddles except one can be nailed with the wheel held
in a corner of the vise. To nail that one, put a thin board upright in
the vise and rest the wheel on its top. All nails should be started in
the paddles, not in the wheel.
[Illustration: WATERWHEEL
PLATE 19]
Make the axle of hard wood. Push it thru the axle blocks and wheel, and
lock it to the wheel with a brad, Plate 19. The axle is made long so
that a pulley (spool) can be put on and a belt (string) run from this to
other pulleys. A leather washer outside each axle block keeps the wheel
in the center. If the work has been carefully done, the paddles will not
strike; if they do strike, they must be pared off.
WATER MOTOR--PLATE 20.
This motor is a waterwheel designed for an ordinary hose faucet. Under a
stream of water no bigger than a large needle, it will fairly buzz. If
the wheel does not run exactly true on the axle, the motor will need
legs screwed on the outside of the box.
Make the wheel of soft wood just as true as possible. (See page 20.) For
the axle a small brass rod or a large knitting needle may be used. In
the center of the wheel, drill a hole smaller than the axle so as to
make a tight fit. Be very careful to bore this hole straight. Force the
axle thru the wheel, and if the wheel wobbles only slightly drive wooden
wedges beside the axle to force it square with the wheel. If it wobbles
too much, plug the hole and try boring again. Resting the axle on the
jaws of the vise, revolve the wheel rapidly to see where it is out of
true, and patiently pare it down. The flat side of the wheel which
wobbles only a little can be planed off. The strip of screen wire
netting should now be tacked on the wheel. It is long enough to go twice
around the wheel, and should be tacked on with a dozen small tacks.
For suggestions about the pulley see page 56.
Prepare a block of soft wood for the coupling. From its bottom, gage a
line marking the height of the dovetails in which the blocks C and D fit
3/8" on each side. Saw these dovetails 3/16" deep, and pare them
slanting with a chisel. In the center of the top, bore a 1" hole, 3/4"
deep; continue the hole thru the block with a 1/2" bit. Bore holes 3/8"
from the top, 1/2" from the ends for the two 1-1/2" screws which are
shown in the small drawing, Plate 20. Gage and saw out the left-hand
half of the block (as shown in the plate) as deep as the 1" hole. The
purpose of this is to permit a squeezing fit on the threads of the
faucet. When first trying it on the faucet, squeeze it hard with a
hand-screw to jamb the threads into the wood; after that, the screws can
be put in and the coupling attached at pleasure. A 1/4" hole is bored in
the 1/2" dowel, which serves as a nozzle, until the spur just shows.
Without allowing the bit to bore any farther, turn it around enough so
that the spur will wear the wood and thus make a tapering hole as shown
in the sectional drawings.
Prepare the sides, ends, and top of the box, the three blocks, the key
wedge, and the two stops. The wedge should be 1/16" wider at one end
than the other and should fit the dovetail. Block C should fit the
other. In the top piece, bore a 3/4" hole in the middle 1-1/4" from the
end. This hole is larger than the nozzle to allow for adjustments. All
these parts must now be thoroly soaked with paraffin. Melt the paraffin,
apply it with a brush to all surfaces, and drive it in with heat. During
the process, the nozzle can be made fast in the coupling, using plenty
of paraffin to make it water tight. See that the tiny outlet occupies
the best position for directing the water onto the wheel. After the
nozzle is cold again, the outlet should be carefully worked out again
with the warm point of a big hat-pin or wire, filed to a good point.
Put the parts together as follows: Nail one side (the right in the
plate) to the ends; screw the other side to ends; nail top to ends and
first side only; nail block B to A; then A to the top. Unscrew the side
and bore holes in the center of the sides for the axle. Make them fit
nicely, then soak them with paraffin. Put the wheel, the side, the
pulley, and the stops in place. Put the coupling in such position that
the nozzle comes over the rim of the wheel and nail block C. After
putting two or three soft leather washers in the coupling screw it to
the faucet, lock it to the motor, and the motor is ready.
Better bearings for the axle can be made of two pieces of solder screwed
to the inside of the sides. If these are made, the holes in the sides
should be large enough not to touch the axle. The wheel and pulley can
be locked to a brass axle by boring a hole thru the axle with a drill
made of a needle. (See Drills, page 11.)
[Illustration: WATER MOTOR
PLATE 20]
SAND WHEEL--PLATE 21.
Fine sand will make a wheel like this spin around lively. Most of the
parts are easily made, the wheel offering the most difficulties.
As shown in the drawing it consists of two boxes, uprights connecting
the two, and a wheel with paddles swung on an axle between the uprights.
[Illustration: Fig. 4]
To make the curves on the uprights, lay them edge to edge in the vise
and start the spur of a large bit in the crack, 1-1/2" from each end. If
a big spool cannot be obtained for the wheel, plane out an octagonal
block 1-3/8" long, 1" in diameter. The slanting part of the spool must
be whittled away. Divide one end into eight equal parts and draw lines
lengthwise on the spool at each division. On these lines, measure very
carefully 11/16" from one end. Then, holding the spool level in the vise
bore 3/16" holes half thru the spool at each of these dots. The easiest
way to lay out the paddles is in one long piece as shown in Fig. 4. If
lines A and B are sawed carefully (see page 12) they will fit the spool
well enough to glue. The stems of the paddles go into the holes bored in
the spool. They are easily made round by paring the corners a little,
and then screwing them around in a 3/16" hole in a piece of hard wood.
The ends of the paddles where the sand strikes are bevelled on the under
side. The holes in the uprights, thru which 1-1/4" brads are pushed into
the center of the spool, must be exactly opposite each other, 3-1/4"
from the bottom. Little leather washers should be put between the spool
and the uprights.
[Illustration: SAND WHEEL
PLATE 21]
Now make the boxes. To nail the boxes to the upright follow the
suggestions on page 59 for nailing the floor of the weather cottage.
Keep the brads near the center of the uprights lest they split the
curves. A 5/16" hole for the sand is bored in the upper box in such a
position that the sand will strike near the middle of the ends of the
paddles. The peg is tapered to fit this hole.
RUNNING WHEEL--PLATE 22.
It is fine fun for several boys to race down the street with running
wheels. Each boy can have a different kind of wheel by following the
suggestions on Plate 22.
[Illustration: Fig. 5]
The wheel may be made any convenient size. Saw a board off square and
plane it flat. To be sure that it is flat, it must be tested with a
straight-edge from corner to corner, crosswise, and lengthwise. Draw the
circle with a string pinned to the center, if a large compass is not at
hand. Saw it with a turning saw and finish it as suggested on page 20.
Bore and countersink a hole in the center for a 1-1/2" flat-head screw.
Make the handle and drill a small hole in it where the wheel is to be
screwed on. Round off the upper end and edges of the handle so that it
feels good to the hand grasping it. The screws used in the connecting
rod should slip easily thru the holes at each end. Altho one arm will
do, two look better. To draw the boy, draw as many 3/4" squares on the
board as there are in Fig. 5, then sketch the outline one square at a
time. To cut it out, a scroll-saw or turning-saw is almost surely
needed, tho a patient boy can do it with auger-bits, back-saw, knife,
and file--the bits to be used first at all the inside angles. On the
handle, must be put a block on which to screw the boy. To fasten the two
arms loosely at the shoulders, the screw should be loose in the shoulder
and first arm, and tight in the second arm. The same is true of the
hands and flagpole. In the top of the flagpole, bore a hole to fit a
small flag. Paint of bright colors makes the model look much more
pleasing.
An easy way to make the sliding part of the lower right-hand running
wheel, Plate 22, is to cut out with bit and chisel a narrow slot thru
the handle, wide enough for two screws, with washers on them, which
screw into the block holding the flag.
[Illustration: RUNNING WHEEL
PLATE 22]
RATTLE--PLATE 23.
This is a noisy toy and will make a safe substitute for fire-crackers on
the Fourth of July. Some of the dimensions may be changed to suit such a
spool as can be obtained. It should be a rather deep spool, that is, one
that held a lot of thread.
The noise is made by the spring snapping off the slats in the spool as
the head of the rattle is swung round and round. Draw lines across one
end of the spool to divide it into eight equal parts. Place the spool
endwise in the vise and, with the back-saw, cut eight notches a little
more than 1/16" wide straight towards the opposite side of the spool. By
sawing twice at each notch, the wood which remains can easily be removed
with the saw held slanting. There are several ways of making the eight
little slats which fit into these notches; the easiest, perhaps, is to
split them from a block (1-5/8" × 1-1/2" × 5/16") of a straight-grained
wood, and plane them on the jig described at the foot of page 19. Glue
them in the notches. Plane the back and the spring this same way. Square
both ends of the back but do not plane it quite to width until it is
glued and nailed in place. In the two sides, bore a 5/16" hole for the
dowel, 3/4" from the end and a little over 3/4" from the back edge.
(Holes are always located by their centers.) This dowel must fit tightly
in the handle and spool, and loosely in the two sides. Plane the spring
thinner at the narrow end. It should be narrow enough and its corners
cut off enough so as not to touch the spool when it snaps. The handle
might well be octagonal rather than round.