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Transcriber's Note. In the section SAND WHEEL--PLATE 21, third
paragraph, the word "on" was added as the most likely word to correct
a typographical omission and "drawn" changed to "draw". Otherwise only a
very few minor typographical errors have been corrected.
[Illustration: TESTING THE KITE-STRING SAILBOAT]
MANUAL TRAINING TOYS
_for_ THE BOY'S WORKSHOP
_By_ HARRIS W. MOORE
SUPERVISOR OF MANUAL TRAINING
WATERTOWN, MASSACHUSETTS
[Illustration]
THE MANUAL ARTS PRESS
PEORIA, ILLINOIS
DEDICATED
TO THE BOY WHO LIKES
TO TINKER 'ROUND
Copyright, 1912
HARRIS W. MOORE
CONTENTS.
Frontispiece Testing the Kite-string Sailboat
Introduction-- PAGE.
Bench, Marking Tools 7
Saws 8
Planes, Bits, Nails 9
Screws, Glue 10
Sandpaper, Dowels, Drills, Sharpening 11
Holding Work 12
Directions for Planing 13
Dart 16
Spool Dart 18
Dart for Whip-Bow 19
Buzzer 20
Flying Top (Plate 3) 22
Flying Top (Plate 4) 24
Top 26
Tom-Tom Drum 28
Pop-gun 30
Whistle 32
Arrow 33
Bow 34
Sword 36
Magic Box 38
Pencil-Box 41
Telephone 42
Happy Jack Windmill 44
Gloucester "Happy Jack" Windmill 46
Paddling Indian Windmill 48
Kite 50
Tailless Kite 53
Box Kite 54
Kite-String Sailboat 56
The Hygroscope or Weather Cottage 59
Electrophorus 62
Waterwheel 64
Water Motor 67
Sand Wheel 70
Running Wheel 73
Rattle 76
Cart 78
Cannon 81
Automobile 84
Bow Pistol 86
Elastic Gun 88
Rattle-Bang Gun 92
Boat 95
Pile-Driver 98
Windmill 100
Kite-String Reel 103
String Machine 106
Windmill Force-Pump 108
INTRODUCTION.
The wise man learns from the experience of others. That is the reason
for this introduction--to tell the boy who wants to make the toys
described in this book some of the "tricks of the trade." It is
supposed, however, that he has had some instruction in the use of tools.
This book is written after long experience in teaching boys, and because
of that experience, the author desires to urge upon his younger readers
two bits of advice: First, study the drawing carefully,--every line has
a meaning; second, printed directions become clearer by actually taking
the tool in hand and beginning to do the work described.
BENCH.
If he buys the vise-screw, an ambitious boy can make a bench that will
answer his needs, provided, also, that he can fasten it to floor or
wall. It should be rigid. A beginner will find a hard wood board,
10"×2"×1/4", fastened to the forward end of the bench, a more convenient
stop than the ordinary bench-dog. If he has a nicely finished bench, he
should learn to work without injuring the bench. A _cutting board_
should always be at hand to chisel and pound upon and to save the
bench-top from all ill use. The _bench-hook_ should have one side for
sawing and one for planing, the former having a block shorter than the
width of the board so that the teeth of the saw, when they come thru the
work, will strike the bench-hook rather than the bench-top.
MARKING TOOLS.
To measure accurately, hold the _ruler_ on its edge so that the
divisions on the scale come close to the thing measured. Let the pencil
or knife point make a dash on the thing measured which would exactly
continue the division line on the ruler. If it can be avoided, never use
the end of the ruler; learn to measure from some figure on the ruler.
The spur of the _gage_ should be filed like a knife point. It seldom
stands at zero of the scale, hence, when setting the gage for accurate
work, measure from the block to the spur with a ruler. The gage is a
rather difficult tool for a boy to use but it will pay to master it. It
may be used wherever square edges are to be made, but chamfers and
bevels should be marked with a pencil.
In laying out work, the beam (the thick part) of the _trysquare_ should
always be kept on either the working-face or the working-edge. (See page
13, Directions for Planing.) Let the blade rest flat on any surface.
Hold the trysquare snugly to the work with the fingers and thumb acting
much like a bird's claw.
For accurate work (e. g. joints), lines should be drawn (scored) with
the sharp point of a small _knife_ blade, held nearly straight up from
the edge of the trysquare blade.
Circles are located by two lines crossing at the center.
SAWS.
The teeth of a _rip-saw_ are like so many little chisels set in a row;
they pare the wood away. The teeth of a _crosscut-saw_ are like knife
points, they score two lines, and the wood breaks off between them.
Large sawing should be done on a saw-horse so that the worker is over
his work. If it is necessary to hold work in the vise to rip it, hold it
slanting, so that the handle of the saw leads the line, as it naturally
does when the work is on a saw-horse.
The _back-saw_, tho a crosscut-saw, may be used in any direction of the
grain.
Any saw should be in motion when it touches the wood it is to cut. To
guide it to the right place, a workman lets his thumb touch the saw just
above the teeth, the hand resting firmly on the wood. A little notch,
cut in the edge right to the line where the saw is to cut, will help a
beginner to start accurately. Saws are rapid tools, and it pays to go
slowly enough with them to do accurate work. Plan the work so as to make
as few cuts as possible.
_Turning-saws_ are best used so that the cutting is done on the pull
stroke, keeping the two hands near together. When one handle is turned,
the other must be turned equally.
PLANES.
Generally being in a hurry to get work done, boys are apt to take big
shavings with a plane. This results in rough work. Fine shavings are
better. If the plane is allowed to rest level on the work, it will find
the high places without continual adjusting. The first two inches of a
stroke are the hardest to plane; to plane these, press harder on the
forward end of the plane. Start the plane level. Usually it is best to
keep the plane straight, or nearly so, in the direction of the push.
The _block-plane_ is properly used to plane the end of wood. (See page
12 on Holding Work.) On other small surfaces, however, it is often more
convenient than a large plane.
BITS.
_Auger-bits_ are numbered by the number of sixteenths in the diameter of
the hole they bore, e. g. No. 4 bores a 4/16" hole. _Gimlet-bits_ are
numbered by thirty-seconds.
Whenever boring with an auger-bit, stop as soon as the spur pricks thru
the other side, turn the work over, start the spur in the little hole it
made, and finish boring. It will always split the wood, if the bit is
allowed to go way thru. It is difficult to bore a hole straight thru a
piece of wood, because to tell whether the bit is held straight when
starting the hole, one must look at it from two directions. If someone
else can stand a quarter circle away from the worker and watch the bit,
that is the best help; otherwise, the worker himself must hold the brace
steady while he walks around a quarter circle and judges whether the bit
is straight. Care should be taken to hold the work level in the vise.
NAILS.
The words, "nail," "brad," and "nailing" are used somewhat
interchangeably in this book; "nailing" may mean driving a brad. Brads
have smaller, thicker heads, nails have larger, flat heads.
To drive a nail straight, start it straight. The hole cannot be
straightened by bending the nail so that it looks straight after it is
partly driven. Many gentle blows with the _hammer_ will often drive a
nail where heavy blows would fail. The fingers pinching the nail often
prevent its bending. If possible, keep nails away from the corners of
boards. Several nails joining two boards hold them stronger if the nails
are driven at different angles. Nails are usually "set," that is, the
heads are driven with a _nail-set_ below the surface. They must always
be set below surfaces which are to be planed. It is often wise not to
drive the first nail or two way in until the work is examined. In
withdrawing nails, a block under the hammer will often aid greatly, and
also protect the surface of the work.
SCREWS.
Screws usually need holes properly bored to receive them; a large hole
first, the size of the screw above the threads, a small hole next, the
size at the roots of the threads (in hard wood somewhat larger), and a
place for the head made with a _countersink_. Usually the screw should
slip easily thru the first piece of wood and be tight in the second. The
_screwdriver_ should always be held in the line that the screw is going,
and it ought fairly to fit the slot in the head. In hard wood, one must
be careful not to twist screws off, especially brass screws, which are
easily broken.
GLUE.
A beginner often wonders why things stick to his fingers instead of to
their proper places; it is because he has a little glue on his fingers
and usually a lot on the article; therefore, don't use too much glue. It
is best, especially in holes and their pegs, to put glue on both
surfaces of contact. Good glue will hold two surfaces, making good
contact, stronger than the wood. Wipe off excess glue as soon as
possible, using hot water for hot glue. Much labor is thus saved. Allow
glue plenty of time to become dry. The moisture has to work its way thru
the wood itself, and this takes hours; six to ten hours is not too long.
SANDPAPER.
Sandpaper varies in coarseness from No. 00 to No. 3, every sheet being
stamped. It should not be used on a given piece until all work with edge
tools is finished. The particles of sand left in the surface would
quickly dull an edge tool. When using sandpaper on flat surfaces, wrap
it closely about a rectangular block of wood. Try to keep all corners as
sharp as they are left by the edge tools so that there will be a
crispness of appearance which always marks good workmanship. Often the
same care in holding work while sandpapering it must be taken as was
taken when shaping it. Always sandpaper with, or lengthwise the grain.
DOWELS.
Sticks that are planed nearly to size can be made round and smooth by
driving them thru a hole in a block of hard wood or iron; such sticks
are called dowels. Two holes may be used if the second is only a little
smaller than the first. Drive gently with a _mallet_ rather than with a
hammer. In many of the models in this book such dowels are used. Dowels
(made by a different process, however,) can often be bought at hardware
stores.
DRILLS.
For ease in making small holes, a _hand-drill_ is essential. For some
holes a headless nail will answer. To make better drills, break a
needle, a knitting-needle, umbrella rib, or other piece of hard wire to
suitable length; on a grindstone, flatten it near the point on two
sides; then, putting it in the chuck of the hand-drill, try to hold it
on the grindstone at the proper angle to form the two cutting edges; or
it may be held against the edge of the bench and sharpened with an
oilstone resting on top of the bench. Very convenient long drills can be
thus made of knitting-needles.
SHARPENING.
To work with dull tools is altogether unsatisfactory. A boy should learn
to sharpen his own edge tools. To grind a good bevel on a tool like a
chisel, it must rest upon something steady. The reflection of light on
the newly ground surface will indicate whether the surface is flat or
not. This process of grinding makes what is called a feather-edge, or
wire-edge, and the tool must be whetted on an oilstone to remove this
wire-edge. The flat side _must be kept flat_ on the stone; the bevel may
be lifted just a trifle. When whetting the bevel, try to avoid a rocking
motion, for this would round the edge. After the wire-edge is completely
removed, a still keener edge can be obtained by stropping the tool on a
piece of leather, much as a razor is stropped. A piece of leather glued
to a wooden mount and sprinkled occasionally with the finest emery
powder will help much in keeping the edge tools keen.
HOLDING WORK.
The way work is held in the vise often makes the difference between
success and failure. Small surfaces are easily planed true if held
almost flush with the jaws of the vise so that the top of the bench
serves to guide the plane; for example, the wheel-center, page 20, or
the crank, Plate 33, are easily planed in this manner. Sometimes
articles, like spools, can be held endwise with safety when they might
be crushed if squeezed sidewise.
A good way to hold the paddles of the sand wheel, Plate 21, Fig. 4, to
saw the lines A B is to put the paddles about half-way down the end of
the vise so that the back-saw can be held near the end of the vise jaws.
The _bench-hook_ is the best device for holding a great deal of small
work for sawing and for planing sides, corners, and ends. When planing
ends, to avoid splitting the far corner, another piece of equal
thickness may be put behind the first. The better way, however, is never
to plane over the far corner, but turn the work and plane always towards
the center; in other words, plane half way from each edge. Where a
corner can be whittled off to form a buttress, there is practically no
danger of splitting that corner. For planing thin boards, see page 19.
DIRECTIONS FOR PLANING.
1. Plane one broad surface. Test it _crosswise_, _lengthwise_, and
_cornerwise_. This surface is called the _working-face_, and should be
marked with a pencil line near the edge to be planed next. On a short
board the cornerwise test can be made with a straight-edge; on a long
board winding-sticks are needed. These are straight sticks with parallel
edges. Near the ends of the board, stand them on edge across the board.
With the eye some distance away, sight from one stick to the other, if
one end of the farther stick seems elevated, that corner of the board
must be planed more.
2. Plane one edge. Test it _crosswise_ with the trysquare on the
working-face, and _lengthwise_ with a straight-edge. This is called the
_working-edge_. Mark it with two pencil lines, drawn near the line on
the working-face.
These two surfaces are of great importance. From them all measurements
are made and all tests applied. The trysquare and the gage should always
be kept on one of these two surfaces.
3. Square the ends. With the trysquare, test them from both the
working-face and the working-edge.
4. Gage the width from the working-edge. Plane to the line. With the
trysquare on the working-face, test this edge.
5. Gage the thickness from the working-face. Plane to the line.
Sometimes, of course, the above order needs to be changed. It is well to
think out the best order of work.
PROBLEMS
PLATES AND WORKING DIRECTIONS
DART--PLATE 1.
A dart like the first one shown on Plate 1 will stick into a soft wooden
target. Two or more boys, each with three darts, might have a contest in
making the highest score. Number three rings of a target 5, 10, and 15,
and the bull's eye 25.
The dart consists of two parts, a round stick and a paper rudder. To
make the round stick, 7" long 1/4" diameter, it will be well to start
with a stick about 9" long so as to be able to hold it easily while
planing it round. First plane the stick _square_, 1/4", and straight. To
plane such a small stick straight, it should be laid on the top of the
bench. While planing it, test it frequently by looking at it endwise.
When it is the right size, grasp one end with the left hand, lay it on
the bench with the forefinger touching the bench, and, with a small
plane, plane away the corners so as to make a true octagonal (eight
sided) stick. Next make it sixteen sided, taking very fine shavings,
then sandpaper it well. Saw off the extra length, leaving the best part
of the stick 7" long.
Bind one end with fine (screen) wire. To bind it well, make a square
corner 1" from one end of the wire and lay this 1" lengthwise the stick.
Hold it firmly with the left thumb while winding the long part of the
wire smoothly around the stick and wire. Twist the two ends together,
and cut off what is not needed. Gently pound down smooth the end of the
wire that is left.
In this end of the stick, drill a hole for a 1" brad. File the head
entirely off, and drive the brad in backwards, leaving 3/16" out; then
file the point real sharp. Carefully split the other end of the stick
1". To do this, stand it upright in the vise, place a knife on the end,
and tap the knife with a hammer. Into this split, insert the paper
rudder bent as shown in Plate 1. The rudder should be cut the shape and
size shown in the working drawing and then bent into shape.
[Illustration: DART
SPOOL DART
DART FOR WHIP-BOW
PLATE 1]
SPOOL DART--PLATE 1.
An easier dart to throw can be made of a spool as shown on Plate 1.
Three feathers which curve the same way will give the dart a whirling
motion when it is thrown.
Make a stick about 7" long to fit tightly into the hole of a spool about
1" in diameter at its end. (See Dowels, page 11, also Glue, page 10.) A
stick like this can be forced into a hole quite far by screwing it
around, but if it is driven much with a hammer the spool will split
easily. After the stick is glued into the spool, hold the spool upright
on the jaws of the vise, and squeeze the stick extending below; then
with the back-saw make four slanting cuts to sharpen the spool. File a
2-1/4" nail square off, 1" long; drive it backwards into a suitable hole
drilled for it in the center of the spool; and sharpen it well with a
file. One-half inch from the other end of the spool saw the stick off,
and drill three holes in the spool end, into which glue three feathers
about 4" long.
DART FOR WHIP-BOW--PLATE 1.
This dart is best made of a shingle. Lacking that, plane a 1/2" board
thin[1] at one end to 1/8". Draw the center line lengthwise and lay out
the shape of the dart with the broad part at the thin end. Saw crosswise
from each edge of the shingle to the place where the curve begins, then
lengthwise to that point. Holding the thin end in the vise, pare the
curves with a knife, spokeshave, or draw-knife. Make the point at each
end with a plane. To plane to slanting lines such as these, it is very
important to place the work in the vise at such a slant that the line is
parallel with the top of the bench and quite close to the jaws of the
vise. Find the point where the dart balances by testing it on the
finger, and make the little notch for the string, using a back-saw
first, then a knife.
A whip-bow consists of a string 20" long tied to the end of a stick 20"
long. A knot is tied at the free end of the string. To throw the dart,
catch the string in the notch, hold the wide end of the dart in the left
hand and the stick in the right, throw the right hand forward, and let
the dart fly from the string.
[Footnote 1: To hold a board while planing it very thin, fasten it to
another flat board with four wooden pegs.
For several of the models in this book, a flat board about 9" × 4" ×
7/8" with a cleat nailed to one end and extending 1/8" above its upper
surface will be found most convenient for holding thin boards while
planing. If the cleat is a little wider than the height of the block on
the bench-hook, the bench-hook serves well to hold it.]
BUZZER--PLATE 2.
The buzzer consists of a wheel and two handles, connected with string.
To make the wheel draw a 3" circle on a piece of wood 3/16" thick. Draw
a line thru the center the way the grain goes and another at right
angles to it, thus dividing the circle into quarters, Fig. 1. Notice,
now, that to avoid splitting the circle, the four quarters must each be
cut in a different direction. Lay the model flat on the bench-hook and
saw off the corners of the square. Now, holding it in the vise with one
quarter up, with the spokeshave, pare the corners in the direction of
the arrow in this quarter until the circle is reached. Be careful not to
pare away any part of the line. It will be observed that paring can be
done safely on the end grain beyond the arrow-head in this quarter, but
this is not at all possible on the side grain where the arrow begins.
The spokeshave should be held rather lightly so as to allow it to follow
the curve. Observing carefully the direction of the arrows, proceed with
the other quarters in this same manner. The last few chips should be
very fine ones. Drill two small holes for the string 1/4" each side of
the center. Sandpaper the model nicely. (See Sandpaper, page 11.)
[Illustration: Fig. 1]
The two handles can be planed best if held in the bench-hook and the
plane turned with its side on the top of the bench. After the corners
are planed in this way, the ends can be planed without danger of
splitting. Drill the holes for the string. The edges and ends of the
handles will look better not sandpapered.
String the model by passing one end of a 3 ft. string thru a hole in one
handle, then in the wheel, then in the other handle, then back thru the
other holes, tying it to the other end of the string. To make it go,
take one handle in each hand, swing the wheel over and over, and gently
pull the handles apart for an instant. A little practice may be
necessary to make it go well. To make it buzz louder, bore two 5/16"
holes on opposite parts of the wheel 1/2" from the rim. (See Bits, page
9.) To avoid splitting, bore _backwards_ till the bit marks a deep
circle in the wood.
[Illustration: BUZZER
PLATE 2]
FLYING TOP--PLATE 3.
Like anything that flies, this top should be made as light as possible.
Bass, cotton-wood, or soft pine are good woods to use. After the wood
for the top is planed to size, a 3/16" hole should be bored straight
thru the center. (See Bits, page 9.) Make the drawing on the top and
whittle to line. Considerable care must be taken in whittling not to
whittle away the two corners which should be saved; this is especially
true if the grain is not straight. See page 16 for suggestions about
making the handle. Glue the handle in the top. To make it fly, hold it
between the two hands, and push the right one quickly. (See Plate 3.)
[Illustration: FLYING TOP
PLATE 3]
FLYING TOP--PLATE 4.
This form of flying top requires accurate work to make a good joint.
(See Directions for Planing, page 13.) After planing the two vanes to
size, the joint must be laid out with knife and gage lines and cut out
with back-saw and chisel. Two important facts should be learned: The
_length_ of one notch equals the _width_ of the other piece; the lines
marking the depth of the notches must be gaged from the working-face of
each piece. After the joint is laid out, hold the work in the bench-hook
while sawing the depth of the notch, and be sure to saw _in the notch_,
not outside the line. With a chisel held flat side down, pare between
the saw cuts from each side of the wood towards the middle. When the
joint is fitted, lay out the curves on each arm of the wheel,
remembering that it is always the front corner of the right-hand arm, as
the wheel turns around, that is to be whittled away. When all these
curves are drawn, take the joint apart, and whittle to the lines. Glue
the joint next, and bore a 3/16" hole straight thru its center. Make the
axle of hard wood. (See page 16 and Dowels, page 11.) Perhaps a skewer
can be used.
After the handle is planed to size, draw pencil lines 1/4" from each
edge for the chamfers. The curve of the chamfer may be drawn freehand.
It should end 1-1/16" from one end of the handle. A good chamfer is flat
crosswise. If the grain of the wood is straight, the chamfers can be
whittled easily; if it is crooked watch that it does not split over the
line. After the chamfers are made, pare another one 1/8" wide around the
end of the handle. After the two blocks are planed, bore a 1/4" hole
3/8" from one end. Glue and nail them 1" on the handle.
[Illustration: FLYING TOP
PLATE 4]
TOP--PLATE 5.
A variety of sizes, shapes and colors of tops, spinning on a plate, is a
lively sight. The one suggested is perhaps as large as it should be made
for such sport. Smaller ones are easily made of spools without making a
disk, or wheel, for them. The more slender the spindle is, the faster
one can spin the top. First make a stick about 6" long to fit the hole
in the spool. Plane 1" of it tapering as small as 1/8", then glue the
spool on 1-1/4" below this small end. Now hold the spool in the vise
endwise, and make, with the back-saw, a saw cut half thru the spool on
the same slant as the slanting part of the spool; then saw straight down
to the end of this slanting cut. Turn the spool nearly over and repeat
this operation; then saw it completely off, and whittle the spool to a
good point.
Draw a 2" circle on a piece of wood 1/4" thick. Draw other circles just
as desired for coloring. Observe the directions on page 20 for making a
wheel. When the wheel is round, bore a 5/16" hole in its center,
sandpaper it, and glue it in place on the spool and spindle. It can be
colored with crayons or water colors.
[Illustration: TOP
PLATE 5]
TOM-TOM DRUM--PLATE 6.
As in a violin, the sounding qualities of this drum depend upon the
quality of the wood used and the thickness of the sounding-board. Spruce
is a good wood to use, though the drumstick may well be harder.
A good way to make two pieces the same length and thickness is to plane
_one_ piece, which is wider than the two pieces combined, to the right
length and thickness, and then saw it in two lengthwise; so, to make the
top and between pieces it will be best to start with one piece about 6"
× 7/8" × 5/16". If no wood 1/8" thick for the sounding-boards is at
hand, plane a thicker piece nicely on all surfaces 3" × 2" × 5/16". Then
gage a line 1/8" from each broad surface all around the piece and saw
between these lines. To plane these two pieces, lay them on the board
described in the foot-note on page 19.
Glue and nail the parts together with very small brads, or pins cut off
1/2". Allow the glue to dry six to ten hours before twisting the
drumstick in the strings. Cut a small notch near the ends of the top
pieces in which to wind two or three strands of string. Twist the
drumstick in the opposite way from which it should strike the
sounding-board. To play it, hold it in the left hand, and let the
fingers of the right hand slide over the end of the drumstick, thus
making the drumstick strike the sounding-board.
[Illustration: TOM-TOM DRUM
PLATE 6]
POP-GUN--PLATE 7.
The part of this model difficult to make is a nice, smooth hole. The
surest way is to start with a thick piece of wood for the barrel, 6" ×
1-1/4" × 1-1/4". Draw a 7/8" circle on one end; then bore the 7/16" hole
as straight as possible, starting at the center of the circle. Stop
boring as soon as the spur of the bit pricks thru the other end, and
draw another 7/8" circle, setting the needle-point of the compass in the
tiny hole made by the spur; then finish boring. Next plane the piece
round the size of the circles. The ramrod should be made as directed on
page 16. The hole should now be sandpapered by wrapping a long, narrow
piece of sandpaper snugly about the ramrod, and tying it securely at
each end with string. Make the handle, being careful to bore the hole
straight 1" deep, and glue the ramrod into it.
Cut off 3/8" of that part of a cork which fits tightly in the barrel.
Drive a slender nail or brad thru a piece of hard leather (or zinc or
copper) and trim it round 1/4" diameter. Drill a small hole exactly in
the center of the end of the ramrod, then drive the nail thru the center
of the cork and into the ramrod.
To make the hole in the barrel still better, let a few drippings from a
candle fall into it and quickly insert the ramrod and push it back and
forth rapidly. A sudden push of the ramrod will blow the other cork out
with a loud pop. To keep this cork, tie one end of a string around it
and the other end around the barrel.
[Illustration: POP GUN
WHISTLE
PLATE 7]
WHISTLE--PLATE 7.
The size of the chamber, of the notch, of the inlet for air, the force
with which air is blown in,--these are some of the conditions which
affect the tone of a whistle.
Plane a piece of close-grained wood 6" × 3/4" × 3/4". This length is
suggested so that two trials at boring can be made. Bore a 1/2" hole
2-1/4" deep. To help in boring this straight, clamp a straight-edge (the
ruler may do) in the vise together with the square stick. Have one edge
of the straight-edge on the center of one side of the stick. After
boring a straight hole, draw pencil lines 3/16" from the long edges on
all four sides. A good way to draw such lines is to rest the middle
finger-nail on a side of the stick as a guide and hold the pencil
closely over this nail while sliding it along. The hand must be held
rather rigid. Practice will enable one to draw lines quite accurately
this way. Place the stick in the vise so that one edge is straight up,
and plane the corner off to the line. Plane all four corners so as to
make a good octagonal stick. Make a dowel (see page 11) about 1-1/2"
long to fit nicely in the hole. Do not crowd it so hard as to split the
whistle. It might well be fitted first in a 1/2" hole bored in a waste
piece of wood. Plane off a side of this dowel till a flat place is made
3/8" wide. Push the dowel into the whistle and saw the straight end of
the notch about 3/16" deep. Pare the rest of the notch with knife or
chisel, testing the whistle by blowing it occasionally as the paring
proceeds. When it sounds best, glue the dowel in place and allow it to
dry before sawing it off and cutting the slanting part. When this is
done saw the whistle to a length of 2-1/2". If a rolling sound is
desired, put in a pea before gluing the dowel in place.
ARROW--PLATE 8.
The old saying, "Straight as an arrow," suggests an arrow's most
important quality: it must be straight. Saw a strip 20" × 1/2" from the
edge of a straight-grained spruce board and plane it according to
directions on page 16. To make the notch for the bowstring, first file
a notch in the smaller end, then saw it 1/4" deep, and smooth it with
the folded edge of a piece of sandpaper. Bind the larger end tightly
with rather small, soft wire. (See page 16.) Pigeon feathers are easiest
to use because the quills are soft and straight. Turkey and goose
feathers are good, and hen feathers will do if they are nearly straight.
The quill should be split with the point of a small, sharp knife, the
feather being held on a cutting board. About 3" of quill are needed.
With scissors, trim the feather about 5/16" wide; then glue and pin it
in place 1-1/4" from the smaller end of the arrow. Indians use three
feathers, but two will do for a boy. When the feathers are in place, the
ends of the quills must be bound very smoothly and tightly with thread.
Notice the position of the feathers in Plate 8: the _bottom_ feather on
the arrow having three feathers is called the cock-feather and should be
of a different color from the other two. It is always placed on the
bowstring _away_ from the bow.
BOW--PLATE 8.
Almost any tough stick that will bend to a good curve will answer for a
bow, but white ash such as is used in hoe- and rake-handles is probably
best and easiest to get. A brittle wood like hemlock can be used, if
used with great care; indeed, some Eskimos, who can get only dry,
brittle driftwood, still make a splendid bow by wrapping it completely
with sinew. The bow should be shorter than the archer. Plane each end
tapering, first on the bottom, then on the two edges. Leave 6" in the
middle straight for a handle. Notice the shape, Plate 8, of the three
steps in the planing of the bow. Be especially careful to get the second
step right, then the third will come easily. File notches near each end
somewhat the shape of the loop on the bowstring. Before the bow can be
finished, it must be strung and pulled a little to test it,--to see if
both ends bend the same good curve,--not the curve of a circle, but that
of the broad side of an ellipse. The ends should curve more than the
middle. When it bends true, smooth it well with a coarse file, or glass,
and sandpaper. Do not be tempted to pull the bow too far and so break
it; one that bends easily is less apt to break than one that is too
strong. When the bow is strung, the center of it and of the bowstring
should be marked with thread or color.
A piece of strong fish-line makes a good bowstring. A good one can be
made of linen thread on the string machine shown on Plate 34. Tie knots
as shown in Fig. 2. The timber-hitch should be kept in place on the bow,
and the bowline-knot slipped back on the bow when it is unstrung. The
best way to string a bow is to place the end having the timber-hitch on
the ground against one's left foot, then to pull the middle of the bow
with the left hand, and to push the upper part with the right hand,
allowing this hand to slide upward so as to shove the bowline-knot into
the upper notch. When finished the bow can be improved by rubbing it
well with grease.
[Illustration: Fig. 2 Timber-hitch knot and Bowline-knot]
[Illustration: ARROW
BOW
PLATE 8]
SWORD--PLATE 9.
Plane the blade to size, then draw a center line on each side, and lay
out the curves for the point and handle. Shape these ends with the
draw-knife, spokeshave, or block-plane. Now measure 5" for the handle,
and draw a line along the center of each edge to mark the cutting edges
of the sword. A workman would do this with his pencil resting over his
finger-nail as mentioned on page 32. Use the spokeshave to pare off the
four corners (to sharpen the sword), and finish them with a plane. Try
to take broad, flat chips so as to make the blade a good diamond shape.
Where the blade and handle meet a good square shoulder must be made. A
boy can do this best, perhaps, with a wide, flat file, though a workman
would use a back-saw and chisel.
Saw out the guard 5" × 3" × 1/2"; then draw the diamond 1-1/2" long and
1/2" wide. It is not easy for a boy to cut this out, so be careful and
guard against splitting the board. First drill small holes at each end
of the diamond, then bore other holes as large as will go within the
diamond, Plate 9. With a thin chisel pare straight thru the board onto a
cutting board. When the diamond will fit the blade, draw the shape of
the guard freehand and pare the edges as explained for the buzzer on
page 20. Sandpaper both parts of the sword, and fasten the guard with
glue and two 2" brads, driven from each edge of the guard in holes
drilled for the purpose.
[Illustration: SWORD
PLATE 9]
MAGIC BOX--PLATE 10.
This is truly a magic box to those who do not understand how it works.
Who would ever think that these little bits of people would hop up and
down inside their house just because their window was rubbed with a
piece of leather? Try it and see how excited they get.
If the worker can cut glass, make the box first, otherwise he must get a
piece of glass 5-1/2" × 3" and build the box to fit it. It requires
careful work to make a good box, so be sure that all ends and edges are
square and that corresponding parts are the same size before nailing it
together. Plane all such small boards in the bench-hook. Make the ends
first 1" wide and as _long_ as the glass is _wide_. Make the sides the
same width and as long as the glass, _plus_ the thickness of the two
ends. Glue and nail these to the ends, keeping the bottom edges flush.
Set all nails with a nail-set.
One edge and one end only of the bottom should now be planed square, the
other edge and end being left to plane after the bottom is nailed in
place. Cut a piece of tin 1/16" smaller than the glass, or glue some
tinfoil on the inside of the bottom. If tinfoil is to be used, smooth it
on a piece of paper carefully with the fingers; then spread some glue
thinly over the bottom, and lay the tinfoil on it. The squared edge and
end of the bottom are to be nailed first, having them fit nicely; then
the other edge and end. Never drive a nail too near the corner of the
bottom lest it strike the nails driven thru the sides of the box. Now
plane the end and then the side of the bottom to fit. If tin is used
instead of tinfoil put it inside the box after the bottom has been
nailed in place. Make the two supports fit inside the box lengthwise and
just wide enough to hold the top of the glass flush with the top edges
of the box. To hold the supports, drive nails thru the ends of the box
into them.
[Illustration: MAGIC BOX
PENCIL BOX
PLATE 10]
Everything about electrical apparatus should be clean and dry, so, as
this is really an electric box, have the glass and tin clean before
using it. Put some bits of charcoal, paper, straw, or sawdust into the
box, have it warm and dry, rub the glass with a piece of leather (glove,
shoe), and then see how the little people jump! The explanation is as
follows: Rubbing glass with leather, fur, woolen, or silk _generates_
electricity; this electricity _attracts_ non-electrified bodies, thus
lifting the little people to the glass; as soon as they become _charged_
with the electricity on the glass, they are _repelled_ and thrown down
to the tin; the tin _conducts_ their charge of electricity away, and
they are ready to begin their circus over again.
PENCIL-BOX--PLATE 10.
To make this box, saw out one long piece for the sides and ends, 22" ×
1-7/8" × 1/4", or two shorter pieces, 12" × 1-7/8" × 1/4". The reason
for having them so long is because it is difficult to make the groove
nicely to the end of the board; and they are wide enough to try twice to
make the groove.
[Illustration: Fig. 3]
File a nail (about 3/32" in diameter) sharp like a chisel, and drive it
tightly into a small hole, drilled in a block of wood which has one
corner rabbeted, that is, sawed away as shown in Fig. 3. The outside of
the nail, measured from the shoulder of the rabbet, must be exactly 1/4"
away, so that the lower edge of the groove will be 1/4" from the top of
the box. Practice with this tool till a good groove can be made in waste
lumber, then make the groove along one edge of the board. When well
done, plane the board 1-3/8" wide, and saw it to the proper lengths for
sides and ends. In the front end there is no groove, so plane it away
from one piece just sawed. Sandpaper the flat sides before gluing and
nailing them together. Prepare the bottom as directed for the magic box,
page 38, then sandpaper, glue and nail it in place. Set all nails. Plane
the bottom to fit. Prepare the cover somewhat too long but exactly the
width between the grooves. As in making the whistle, page 32, so here
draw pencil lines for the bevel 3/8" wide on the cover. Practice planing
a bevel on waste wood first. The bevel at the further end of the cover
can be planed by holding the cover upright in the vise. When it slides
smoothly in the grooves, saw it the right length. For the notch, make a
deep cut with a gouge, and cut the chip straight across with knife point
or small chisel. Hold it in the bench-hook while doing this.
TELEPHONE--PLATE 11.
In these days when even boys are using wireless telegraphy, this may
seem a humble telephone, but it is a surprisingly good one, and it is
very easily made and operated. The drum should be hard and tight, the
string should be a small, hard cord (tho the common pink cord thoroly
waxed with paraffin will do), and the cord should be supported by
nothing but the drums when the telephone is being used.
After preparing the eight sides, observe in Plate 11, the method of
nailing four boards of equal width together to form a square,--each one
is nailed to another one. The ends of the boxes should be well rounded
with sandpaper before the drum is stretched over them.
The best material for the drum is rawhide,--the dried skin of an animal.
The skin of a small animal like the cat, rabbit, or woodchuck is best.
Country boys will not have much difficulty in securing such rawhide, but
city boys may. To remove the hair, or fur, from a skin, slack a lump of
lime as large as a hen's egg in a basin of water and soak the skin in it
until the hair can be pulled off readily (usually a few minutes); then
thoroly wash the skin, stretch it over one end of a box, and tack it
every 3/8" with 2 oz. tacks. When thoroly dry it will be "tight as a
drum" and ready to use. A good drum can also be made of an old (dressed)
kid glove or shoe. Soak a piece 4" sq. in water a few minutes then
stretch it while still wet, tightly over the box. When dry, coat it on
both sides with melted paraffin. Fasten the cord to the drum simply by a
knot on the inside. If common pink cord is used, drive the paraffin in
with a hot flat-iron.
To use the telephone, a boy at each end of the line holds his box so
that the string will not touch anything, then one talks into his box
while the other listens in his. The telephone may be stretched from one
house to another if the houses are within several hundred feet of each
other and have a free space between. If two telephones were provided, a
person could talk and listen at the same time.
[Illustration: TELEPHONE
PLATE 11]
HAPPY JACK WINDMILL--PLATE 12.
On a windy day "Happy Jack" will be a whole circus out on the
clothes-line post. If he can be painted in bright colors so much the
better, otherwise he should be decorated with colored pencils.
The body is drawn on a board, 9" × 2" × 1/2", by measuring all the
figures from the hat down, and at these points drawing lines square
across the board; also, draw a center-line from head to heel. The toes
and hat rim split easily, so be careful of these parts. If no scroll-saw
is at hand, saw every 3/8" with the back-saw straight across from the
edge of the board to the outline of the body; then pare these little
pieces away with a knife or chisel. The curves at the neck are best made
with a No. 6 bit before sawing. The curves may be finished with
half-round file or sandpaper. Take great care in boring the hole up the
legs and across the shoulders; if a hole is started crooked, glue in a
dowel of the same wood (see Dowels, page 11), let it dry, and then try
again. Use a straight-edge as a guide, as for the whistle, page 32. A
No. 3 bit is used thru the shoulders, and a No. 4 bit up the legs. To
make the arms, use a 1/2" hard wood dowel 6" long. Bore 1/4" holes for
the vanes 1/2" each side the center of the dowel and file the wrists,
before sawing it in two. Round the ends some with sandpaper. Flatten the
4" wire which goes thru the shoulders enough to keep it from turning in
the arms. Drill holes in the arms to hold the wire firmly. To plane the
vanes thin at the broad end, use the board mentioned at the bottom of
page 19. When gluing and nailing the vanes in the arms, remember that
one lies flat and the other nearly edgewise; also remember to make them
balance. Bore a 3/16" hole in the center of the base and glue the dowel
into it. Before trying to fasten "Happy Jack" to a post, drill holes in
the base for nails or screws.
[Illustration: HAPPY JACK WINDMILL
PLATE 12]
GLOUCESTER "HAPPY JACK" WINDMILL--PLATE 13.
This "Happy Jack" is the kind which is common along the coast of New
England. He is often painted with blue and white uniform and black
shoes, while the paddles are left unpainted.
The drawing is made on squares so that it may be enlarged easily to any
size. Keep the same _number_ of squares but make them any size desired;
3/4" is a good size. The hat, being made separate from the body, should
not be drawn on the same board.
To make the hat without a lathe, make two wheels of soft wood, round one
edge of the larger, and glue and nail the smaller one on it. Saw the
head slanting to make a flat place for the hat, as shown in side view of
hat, Plate 13. The space between the legs should be cut out with a
turning or key-hole saw, tho it can be worked out as the diamond in the
sword guard, Plate 9. The "Happy Jack" should be mounted on a large wire
rod.
[Illustration: GLOUCESTER HAPPY JACK WINDMILL
PLATE 13]
PADDLING INDIAN WINDMILL--PLATE 14.
Make this windmill any dimension desired, using the same number of
squares in drawing to keep the proportions. The stern of the canoe
should be planed thin enough so that the completed windmill will nearly
or quite balance on the upright wire rod. The arms should be made like
those on the "Happy Jack," and as long as from the center of the
shoulder to the topmost feather. If the canoe is not too wide, the
Indian can be nailed in place by two nails as shown in Plate 14,
otherwise drive smaller ones slanting thru the back into the canoe;
drill holes in either case. After the hole is bored thru the shoulders,
use a trysquare to tell where to start the hole up thru the canoe so
that it shall come in front of the former.
[Illustration: PADDLING INDIAN WINDMILL
PLATE 14]
KITE--PLATE 15.
Kite flying is such fascinating sport that the three typical kites here
given will make one want to build others, larger and of different
shapes.[2] Kites have been made large enough to carry a man high in the
air. The adjustments of a kite are so subtle that much patience is
sometimes needed to make it fly. That is why the rather elaborate bridle
is suggested for the paper covered kite with tail. It will require a
little longer stay in the workshop, but it will save time outdoors.
[Footnote 2: Many suggestions are found in "The Construction and Flying
of Kites" by Charles M. Miller, price 20 cents, Manual Arts Press,
Peoria, Ill.]
To make the spine and crosspiece, saw a 1/4" strip from the edge of a
7/8" straight-grained spruce board 3 ft. long; then saw this strip again
lengthwise, and plane the two pieces 3 ft. × 3/8" × 1/4". Mark the
center of the crosspiece and a point 8" from the top of the spine, and
plane each end tapering thinner to 3/16". In each end saw a slot 3/16"
deep, Plate 15. Glue and bind securely the middle of the crosspiece to
the 8" point on the spine. Notice that the last few strands go _around_
the others. Test the sticks to see that they are square with each other.
This can be done by measuring from one end of the spine to each end of
the crosspiece. Put a cord that will not stretch around the ends of the
sticks, in the slots, and tie it tightly. Bind this cord into each slot
in such a manner that it will not slip, and at the same time wind the
sticks so that they will not split beyond the slot. While doing this,
one must measure again from each end of the spine to the ends of the
crosspiece so that the two halves of the kite will be equal.
Cover the kite with strong, light paper. Glue the paper to the sticks,
and fold it over the string 1/2". Try to have the string lay in the
crease of the fold. Strengthen the corners with another piece of paper,
2" wide.
[Illustration: KITE
TAILLESS KITE
BOX KITE
PLATE 15]
To make an adjustable bridle, wind a cord twice around the spine near
its top and tie it tightly on the front side, keeping the knot in the
middle. Little holes will, of course, have to be made in the paper. Cut
the cord about 2" long and tie bowline-knot, Fig. 2, p. 34. Measure on
the crosspiece 10" from the center, and down the spine 12" from the
crosspiece, and tie three more such knots. Double two cords, about 40"
long, and tie them in one big knot, called the flying-knot, to make a
loop about 1" long to which to fasten the anchor line. Mark a point on
the spine 10" below the crosspiece. Hold the flying-knot here, and
fasten two cords to the loops on the crosspiece with two or three
half-hitches, Plate 15. Now bring the flying-knot 2" above the
crosspiece and out from the kite far enough to make these two cords
taut. Fasten another cord to the loop at the upper part of the spine.
Adjust the remaining cord as taut as the others.
A flat kite like this always needs a tail, and the most bothersome tail
ever made is that familiar kind made of paper and string. To make a
convenient, serviceable, and easily-made tail use strips, 3" wide, of
bunting, cheese-cloth, or any soft, light cloth.
In a high wind a longer tail is needed than in a light wind. If the kite
seems too unsteady, pull it down, and try to adjust the bridle or the
tail, before an accident occurs. If the kite dives, let go the string
just before the kite reaches the ground so that it will not strike the
ground with force enough to smash the kite. When letting out string
rapidly, always protect the hand with a cloth or glove lest the string
cut thru the skin. If in doubt about the strength of the anchor-line,
two boys can very quickly test it 100 ft. or so at a time as it is being
let out; one does not want the string to break when the kite is high in
the air.
TAILLESS KITE--PLATE 15.
If one has to fly a kite amid many obstructions of trees, wires, and
houses, one will appreciate the advantage of a tailless kite. Such a
kite has to be more accurately made, however, and should be covered with
cloth.