in check, in spite of the loss of a few men killed or taken prisoner
every night or two. He had a tremendous surprise developing for our
Fifth Army away to our right flank, and he didn't care to "start
anything" with us that might disarrange his plans. Not that we were
left severely alone, for it was on this same comparatively quiet
front, on Wednesday afternoon, April 3rd, that I saw more enemy
shells drop on one particular spot in a limited time than I ever saw
happen in any other sector.
Our Regimental Aid Post was a spacious comfortable place underground
off "Vancouver Road," and there some 3rd Field Ambulance "bearers"
had taken up their quarters along with our medical section. The
dug-out had only the one defect of not being any too deep for safety.
Well, it so happened that something had aroused the enemy's
suspicions about our Post. Maybe the fresh earth thrown out from a
little trench-improvement work near us had attracted the notice of
the German air-men. Whatever the cause they evidently had come to
the decision that it would be wise to "shoot us up," which they did
with a vengeance. Captain Mackenzie and I were coming down the
sunken road when the fusilade opened. At first we thought it was the
usual stray shell or two, but for three hours we couldn't get within
fifty yards of the place. The Hun gunners lobbed them over
unceasingly. The dust of an explosion was still in the air when you
could hear the hum of another shell coming. We were held up and just
had to wait for the "strafe" to cease, anxiously wondering if the
roof was holding and our men were safe.
It stopped at last and we ran down the road. One of the entrances
was smashed in but the other still held up. We went downstairs to
find our men crowded into one small portion of the Post that remained
intact. All around was evidence of their miraculous escape. I
shuddered to think what would have been, had a shell penetrated the
roof there and burst among them.
McClymont told me that their lights were blown out seventy-two times
by the concussion of shells exploding near the entrances, and that
when they went out about the twenty-fifth time Macpherson started
them singing some music-hall choruses to relieve the strain. About
the fiftieth time, by mutual unspoken consent, they changed to hymns!
I'd have changed long before that; indeed I doubt if I could have
found voice steady enough for song!
The foregoing facts I glean from an old notebook in which at the time
I further jotted down that "the Hun threw 235 "5.9" shells on and
around our R.A.P. in less than three hours. One entrance was
crumpled in and dirt and bricks heaped on our beds. Twenty men there
but no one hurt. The shelling represents a waste of twenty-five
thousand dollars, and our cosy home gone."
That night we moved across the road to a deeper dug-out, one that had
been built by the Germans, located by Sergt. Sims. Talking in the
evening after supper about the day's event, our conversation
naturally went afield to other adventures, and I was led to speak of
a narrow escape from death I had in very different circumstances in a
distant land.
* * * * *
In nearly eleven years of the Yukon trails, living on the creeks
among the mountains in early Klondike days, I could not fail to have
my share of memorable experiences, some of them with more than a
spice of hazard. I lived just the regular life of a "musher"--a man
on the trail--and while that mode of life assuredly held nothing of
monotony, yet I grew so accustomed to it that it all seemed part of
the usual, familiar course of things.
After the summer, beautiful but brief, there came the eight months of
grim, relentless winter. Then we had to face the long darkness and
the deadly cold; to travel vast, white valleys filled with an almost
terrifying silence broken only by the ugly howling of the wolves; to
battle through deep and drifting snow along miles of lonely summits,
with blizzards blinding and bewildering. But against each problem or
task that Nature set us we matched, with zest, our wits and skill.
There was the joy of conflict in it. Experience made us self-reliant
and we learned to love the life, so free and clean, so full of
stirring incident and victorious combat with the elements. Only now
am I commencing to get the true perspective of those Yukon days, and
by comparison with the soft conventional life of these later years,
recognizing how unique and interesting they were.
There comes to my mind a very unpleasant time I had one winter night,
when I lost my way, broke my word, and spoiled a happy gathering. If
it were a sermon, my text would be, "Let him that thinketh he
standeth take heed lest he fall."
The Christmas festivities in the Yukon long ago usually continued for
about a month. The weather was so frosty that work on the windlass
was both disagreeable and risky, so it became customary for the
mid-winter weeks to be occupied in visiting or entertaining
neighbours and friends. Small "parties" were held in a sort of
rotation at the larger cabins up and down the valleys. Everybody was
merrymaking. Hospitality knew no artificial bonds, for in those
golden days, there was neither prince nor peasant, rich nor poor.
Don't think from this that we had no right social standards. I know
that much of the fiction about the North is built on the theory that
the men in the Klondike diggings practically adopted the moral code
of the brothel. That assumption may make a novel "spicy" and
increase its sale, but nevertheless it is quite untrue. We, of the
creeks, had worthy moral standards, simple but definite, and rigidly
enforced. Our social grading, however, was not based on the length
and value of a man's "poke," nor on his grandfather's record. If he
lived an honest, decent life among us, he was barred from nothing.
In addition to the many smaller affairs, each gulch, where there were
miners, would have one big evening for all, church or roadhouse being
requisitioned for the occasion. These were called Christmas Tree
Entertainments, or simply "Trees" for short. It was one of my duties
to name the members of committees to have charge of all arrangements,
and I was also expected to be chairman at all the "Trees." To meet
this last requirement each creek had to choose a different date so
that I could make the rounds.
In the winter of 1905 we had carried through our entertainments at
Last Chance, Gold Bottom, and Gold Run. Sulphur Creek was the last,
and they had been working to make it the best of all. It was to be
held on Dec. 28th. One of the Sulphur men, Robertson, had come over
to Gold Bottom to "size up" the programme there and report to his
committee. He told me that Sulphur's Tree would easily eclipse the
others, and that I must on no account miss it. "You can depend on
me, Robertson," I said, "and I'll see whether you Sulphurites can
make good your boast. I'll have to 'mush' across from Gold Run that
afternoon, but I won't disappoint you."
At noon Dec. 28th a very happy party of six old "tillicums" were
gathered in Jordan's cabin on Gold Run. His partner Jim Prophet was
there, Coldrick the Londoner, Macgregor the Australian, Bousfield and
myself. Prophet had been lucky enough to get a moose that had
strayed into the valley within rifle-shot and it lay partly cut up on
some poles by the "cache." So he had invited his friends in to help
eat some of the choicest parts, moose-steak in ordinary being, of
course, too common for a special feast. I shall forbear entering
into details of that meal, but our meat-dish was young moose-heart
stuffed, roasted, with fresh Klondike river grayling as an entree.
Grayling are caught in the fall when slush ice is running in the
river. They are sluggishly heading for deep water. You fish for
them with rod and line baiting with raw meat. When you pull one out
he freezes stiff almost before you can get him off the hook. You
catch what you need, take them home, and stack them up like firewood
in the cache where they will remain frozen. There you have your
winter's supply of absolutely fresh fish.
We were sitting at the table when there came a knock on the door, and
in response to Jordan's hearty "Come in," it was opened and the form
of our good friend Corp. Haddock, of the North West Mounted Police,
emerged through the mist. He sat down a minute or two but wouldn't
stay. He was calling at all the cabins giving orders that no one was
to attempt to leave the valley until the weather moderated. The
barracks thermometer registered 65° below zero, and a dense fog had
formed. Under these conditions it was perilous to attempt any
journey away from human habitations. No one spoke of my intended
trip, (although I found out later that Haddock knew my plans), until
he had gone, when Coldrick said, "That puts the finish on your mush
to Sulphur, Pringle." "No," I replied, "I gave my word I'd be there
and they will be looking for me. I have crossed that divide fifty
times. I know every flake of snow on it. Unless the corporal
catches me and puts me in the 'cage,' I'll be chairman at the Sulphur
Church this evening."
This sounds boastful and foolhardy, but as a fact it was neither. I
realized perfectly what I was facing, and knew that, barring
accidents, I could keep my promise. I had fifteen miles in all to
go, and only one mile of it difficult travelling through deep snow on
the low summit, and for that I had my snowshoes. True, it was
extremely cold, but I was suitably clothed and knew how to take care
of myself, surely, after six years constantly on the trail.
So Jordan went out to get my snowshoes. He came in with the
unexpected news that my snowshoes, and likewise their two pair, had
disappeared from their pegs. It was plain that Haddock was "wise,"
and had taken them along with him down creek in a well-meant effort
to make me stay indoors. I would have to go six miles down the trail
and back to get another pair, and they also might not be there. That
was out of the question. I hesitated only long enough to picture the
trail. There was only that one mile on which I used the shoes, and
though the snow there was deep I could wade through without them. It
would mean perhaps an hour longer, but it wasn't two o'clock yet and
I had a full six hours to travel fifteen miles. I decided to go.
I set out and made fast time until I struck the drifts on the summit.
The short spell of gloom we called day had ended, and it was rapidly
growing dark. Before I got over that mile there would be no light,
and this unpleasant white fog would be blindfolding my eyes as well.
With it all I didn't worry. This was a difficult job that faced me,
but I was in my own workshop, had my own tools, and was working at my
own trade. Fate, however, had decreed that I should botch things
this time.
Somehow, unwittingly, I turned a gradual quarter circle to the right
in the drifts, and was then travelling along the low, undulating
divide instead of across it. Laboriously but confidently I kept on
through the darkness and the fog, unconscious of my error, until,
after three hours, I found myself at the foot of a grade that I had
thought was the slope down into the Sulphur valley. I soon found my
mistake. It must have been some large cup-shaped depression on the
divide, its bottom strewn with a fearsome tangle of fallen trees
carried down by a snow or landslide. For two testing hours I fought
my way through that piled up brush and snow. When I got clear I felt
myself on an up-grade.
It was a long climb out of that hateful valley and I knew now that I
was lost. To try to retrace my steps would have been suicide. I had
given up all hope of reaching Sulphur in time for the Tree and was
growing a trifle anxious. It was terribly cold and dark. I had been
working extremely hard for hours and I was getting hungry. I didn't
dare to stand still or rest. My moccasin thong had come undone and I
had to take off my mitts to fix it. So sharp was the frost that my
fingers grew almost too stiff to do the work and I nearly failed to
tie the lace. They were white and numb when I thrust them into my
fur gauntlets, beating them against my chest as I went on. My whole
body sensed the chill and threat of that momentary stop. It told me
that if I were forced to take my last chance for life and try to
build a fire, I would almost surely fail; to find dry wood, to
prepare it, to light it, and wait nursing it into a flame sufficient
to warm me would be a succession of almost hopeless chances, too
desperate to take now unless there were no other way.
My climb brought me at last out above the frost-fog, and I thanked
God I could see His stars and get my bearings. Far away to right and
left in the darkness I knew the valleys of Gold Run and Sulphur lay,
but between me and them stretched impossible miles of rough country.
Puzzled a moment my anxious eyes caught the flicker of a light, low
down in the north, hardly to be distinguished from the stars on the
sky-line. This was indeed my "star of hope." It meant warmth, and
warmth was life to me. I fixed its location and with new heart
headed for it.
For six hours I travelled straight away like a hunted moose. I was
young, lean and fit as a wolf. I was tired but not at all exhausted.
In wind and limb I was good for miles yet. But I was becoming
exceedingly hungry, and felt the clutching, icy fingers of the frost
getting through my clothes, and I knew there was no time to waste.
Hunger and ninety-five degrees of frost on the trail combining
against you with darkness as their ally, will soon club you into
unconsciousness.
However the game isn't lost or won until the referee blows his
whistle. I was determined to fight it right out to the finish. The
light was my goal and I forgot all else. I must get to it even
though I might have to crawl at last with frozen hands and feet. In
the hollows I lost sight of it, picking it up again on higher ground,
until, when I knew I hadn't much time left me, it glimmered clear,
down hill, not a hundred yards away. I'll tell you the lights in
Paradise will not look so beautiful to me as did the Jo-Jo Roadhouse
bonfire that night, for they had a big fire outside under an iron
tank melting snow for water and it was the flame of this I had seen.
My fumbling at the latch roused Swanson, the owner, from his sleep.
He opened the door and pulled me in and I was safe. I had been
beaten in my endeavour to get to Sulphur in time for the Tree, but I
was victor in a more serious contest. I had won a game against heavy
odds in which the stakes were life, or death, or maiming.
They told me later at Sulphur, that at half-past eight the crowd at
the Tree got uneasy, and by nine o'clock the concert was declared off
and a well-equipped search-party set out with dog-teams. They went
the round-about but well-trodden trail down to the mouth of Gold Run,
and up that creek, until they found my solitary tracks turning off to
the divide. They sent their dogs back to the Gold Run cabin with one
of the party, and followed my trail all night on snowshoes, making
the Jo-Jo late next morning an hour after I had left on Swanson's
shoes for Sulphur.
I arrived at that camp by an easy route early in the afternoon. I
had made their Tree a failure, I had broken my word, I had disobeyed
Police orders, but I didn't get a scolding even, from anybody.
_VII._
_A Strange Meeting_
The German High Command had a big surprise to spring on the British
Army in France early in 1918. Their preparations culminated in the
smashing attack they made in March on the Fifth Army commanded by
General Gough. The Canadians lay facing Mericourt beyond Vimy at
that time. To our right, covering Arras and beyond, the Third Army,
under General Byng was holding, on their right lay the Fifth Army.
Before and during their great effort the Germans refused to be
"drawn" at Mericourt into any serious retaliation, no matter how
often we raided them. We knew why later when General Gough's line
went to pieces. The Huns were going to "get us," they believed, in
another and more thorough way than by counter-raids.
It looked for some weeks as if they might realize their hopes. The
Fifth Army's formation was broken, and in confusion, they were driven
back and back for miles, until with reinforcements they managed to
hold only a short distance in front of Amiens. In a few days the
British lost, in prisoners alone, 200,000 men. To save themselves
from being outflanked the Third Army had to withdraw from a portion
of their former line and swing their right wing back facing out.
They completed the difficult movement with brilliant success, and
presented to the enemy an unbroken front of fighting men,
well-munitioned, and supported by an effective artillery fire. This
move saved the British forces from what looked like imminent disaster.
Byng's men used Arras as their pivotal sector. It was only a few
miles from us, and it was with anxious hearts we heard, those days
and nights, the ceaseless thunder of the guns on our right, as the
terrific struggle continued. It was dismal news too, that came from
Belgium. There Mt. Kimmel had fallen, and the British had been
strategically forced to evacuate all the ground we had won at such
enormous cost around Passchendaele; and this, remember, was the
fourth year of the war.
Those were fateful days for the Canadians. Our front was quiet, but
we were nevertheless in an extremely perilous location. Vimy Ridge
was behind us, and behind it again was lower ground which would be
hard to hold in a flanking attack by our enemy. Many additional
batteries had been crowded in on the Ridge with their silent guns
trained on Arras lest the Third Army, which still occupied that town,
should be broken and the Germans get through. In that event the
Canadian Corps would probably have been cut off by the enemy's
advance through the valleys behind us, and our career, as a Corps,
would have ended. Certainly we would have sold our lives and freedom
dearly, but with lines of communication cut our position would have
soon been untenable, and successful retreat probably very nearly
impossible. Don't dream that the front-line men were panicky. We
knew that millions of brave men were still facing our common enemy
and that back of them and us was the indomitable will of our Empire
and our Allies. In this connection I recall a conversation between
our Col. Urquhart (a thorough Scot), and a visiting officer, in which
they referred to the situation at Arras. "It is very serious
indeed," said our guest, "for if the British break there, we
Canadians are in for our biggest tussle with the Hun." "Do you
know," asked Urquhart, "what troops of ours are engaged there?"
"Yes," was the reply, "the 15th Division." "Well," said the Colonel,
"that is a Scottish Division, and I can assure you, sir, there will
be no break at Arras." Nor was there. Those Scottish lads stood
firm. Repeated and determined attacks by the finest German troops
could not break their front, nor drive them from their ground. The
critical days passed, the enemy's progress was everywhere effectually
and permanently stopped. Then when we were thoroughly prepared we
took the initiative, and in August, the same year, commenced that
grand victorious advance which ended the war.
Those days we often keenly discussed the situation from many angles.
I was in "A" Company's dug-out one time when we were giving our
opinions as to the relative merits of some of the different units of
the British Army. We got away from the present war into history, and
were recalling other famous campaigns and the exploits of the troops
engaged in them. Someone said that while Canada, since she became a
Dominion, had not had much chance until now to become illustrious in
war, yet for forty years she had maintained the finest force of
military police in the world, the Royal North-West Mounted. I was
proud to mention that my brother had served in that crack
organization for thirty years, and from that remark I was eventually
entangled in the yarn which I here unravel.
* * * * *
I am the youngest of ten. My two brothers, John and James, were
grown up and away from home before I had got beyond infancy. John
visited us frequently after I had reached boyhood. James enlisted
with father's consent in the North-West Mounted Police, went west and
never returned. That force was organized in 1873 and my brother
joined them in 1878. When I was a young lad there was no doubt in my
mind which was my favorite brother. John was a minister, and
ministers were an unknown quantity to a youngster of my age, and so I
wasn't much taken with my preacher brother.
But it was different with James. He was a soldier and a specially
interesting sort of soldier. His business was chiefly, so I thought
anyway, to go galloping on horseback across the prairies of our wild
west, chasing bad Indians and horse-thieves, and having all kinds of
real adventures. How I longed for him to come home! I pictured him,
in fancy, riding down our main street in Police uniform, with pistols
in his belt and perhaps a knife too, his carbine slung by his saddle,
and handling easily a spirited horse! I would then point him out
with pride to the other boys as my brother, and maybe, when he saw
me, he would come riding over to the sidewalk and speak to me in
front of all the other fellows. My boyish heart used to glow as I
imagined what might possibly soon come true.
The prairies were undoubtedly a very long distance off in those days.
There were no rail-ways on them, none indeed to carry you to their
outer-boundaries in Canada. Parties of police recruits went down
through the United States to Fort Benton or other suitable points,
and then came north, mostly by trail, to the Canadian plains. It was
a long journey, I knew, but on the other hand mother used to get
letters from him, and he would say in them that he might be home for
Christmas, a treasured hope. Nearing Christmas mother would be
busier than ever in the kitchen, making the cakes and other good
things we always had in abundance at that festive season. I liked to
be on hand then for there were bowls, in which tasty confections had
been mixed, that required scraping out and it was my delight to
attend to them. She would often talk to me then about her soldier
boy, and I was an eager listener. "Maybe your brother James will be
home this Christmas," she would say with a glad note in her voice.
Then there would come the letter containing the unwelcome news that
he couldn't get a furlough this year, they were so short of men and
had such a vast territory to patrol, but we would surely see him next
year. Mother would go into her room for a while with the letter, and
when she came out she would take me on her knee, hug me up to her and
kiss me, then would go about her work strangely silent. Her soldier
boy never came home. He went farther west and north, and my story is
of the first meeting I had with my brother, the first anyway I had
any memory of. It occurred in the Yukon in a roadhouse on Eureka
creek.
I visited that creek regularly about once a month. To reach it I had
to "mush" down the Indian River valley, ten miles from the mouth of
Gold Run, and then cross the river to Eureka which flowed in from the
opposite side. Five miles up Eureka was the first cabin. Above that
on both forks of the stream there were miners. In summer I could
cross Indian by a shallow ford and in winter on the ice, but for a
trip or two in the Spring it was a tumultuous flood which I had to
navigate on a make-shift raft.
It was in the Spring of 1902 when making this trip I found the river,
as I expected, in spate. I was prepared with axe, rope, and a few
spikes, and in an hour or two had a small, rough float constructed.
I made and launched it a hundred yards above the point I sought to
reach on the other bank, for I knew the rapid current would carry me
down that distance at least before I could effect a landing. On this
side of the river there was no one nearer than ten miles, for this
was the "back-entrance" to Eureka, (Bonanza and Dawson lying off in
another direction), so I always wrote out a note stating what I was
attempting to do, dated it, and put it up on a tree by the trail.
Thus if anything unexpected happened, some "musher," coming by within
a week or two, would know the circumstances.
Then I pushed out into the water with my rough paddle. I had a light
pack on my back holding my shoes, a dry pair of socks, and other
trail accessories. That time I had made my raft rather too small. I
had to stand in the centre or it would tip me off, and it wasn't easy
to keep my poise in rough water with the logs mostly out of sight
under my feet. When within a few yards of the other side, my frail
craft caught for a moment on a hidden snag which tore some of the
lashings loose, and the two outside logs showed signs of getting
adrift. If that occurred I would shortly be swimming for my life in
the surging, ice-cold water. The raft was only about seven feet
across and to save it from breaking up I "spread-eagled" on it,
catching the rope ends with each hand and thus holding it together.
I had to lie almost flat to do this, and for the next five minutes
was giving a life-like imitation of a submarine about to submerge.
Luckily my raft struck the bank, I caught the limb of a tree and
swung myself ashore. I made the five miles to Macmillan's cabin in
double-quick time and stayed the day there in the bunk, with my
clothes drying out around the stove.
During the next two days I went around the cabins visiting, and
"ringing the church bell" for a meeting in the roadhouse. There we
gathered in the evening, not a man absent that could come. The
roadhouse became a church, with the bar-counter my lectern. On it I
had a lighted candle which I had to hold in my right hand, the book
in my left, when I read or we sang, so that I could see the words
distinctly. The business of the place was practically suspended
except the cooking at the kitchen end, and at odd times when a
traveller came in for a drink or a meal he would be served quietly,
and then go on his way or stay as he was minded. The stools and
benches were filled and some men were sitting on the floor around the
walls.
In the middle of my sermon two "mounties" entered at the door behind
me. They closed the door and stood near it listening. I turned my
head for a casual glance at the newcomers, stammered, stuck, and
couldn't go on. I turned from my congregation, and, taking the
candle in my hand, stepped nearer. There before me was the man whose
face I had so often gazed at, with silent admiration, as I saw it in
the photograph in my mother's room. It was indeed my brother James,
the hero of my boyhood days! Our hands clasped as I spoke his name.
I turned to the crowd, told them what had happened, and that I
couldn't go on with the address. They understood. We sang a hymn
and ended the service forthwith.
The talk I had with my new-found brother can be better imagined than
described. He had been sent from the upper country, the Tagish Post,
to the Eureka detachment, had arrived that evening and had heard that
a "George Pringle" was having a meeting on the creek. He had come
over confident that it was his "little" brother, for he knew I was in
the Klondike.
We spent a day together, one of the never-to-be-forgotten days of my
life. Then the next morning I started back on my circuit. He came
with me to Indian. We built a good raft together, and he watched me
safely over and until I was out of sight in the trees. Then I took
down my "notice" and hit the trail for Gold Run. George Earsman,
living in the first cabin I came to on that creek, was a sympathetic
listener while I told of the strange meeting. But he could not
forbear humorously remarking that I had in a sense, "turned the
tables" on my brother. Back in Gait, he said, no doubt James had
often put me to sleep, and when next we met I was trying to put him
to sleep!
I saw my brother only once more. Ed. Blanchfield brought me a letter
from Dawson some weeks after marked "urgent." It was from Jim,
stating that orders had been received requiring him to leave the
Yukon for Police headquarters at Regina, Saskatchewan. He had to
take the first up-river boat, the _Casca_, which sailed the next day.
I made record time over the twenty miles from Gold Bottom next
morning. John came in nine miles from Bonanza, and I spent a happy
afternoon with my two "big" brothers before the steamboat pulled away
for the south.
After those many strenuous years serving Canada in wild and dangerous
days on the prairies, and among the forests and mountains of the
northland, he now takes his rest. His is a lonely grave near one of
the outposts of settlement on the northern reaches of our prairies.
_VIII._
_Ben_
One of the pluckiest deeds I have ever seen done by any airman I
witnessed in 1918 on the Mericourt front. On a line two or three
miles behind us, and stretching roughly from Arras along Vimy Ridge
to the Souchez valley, we had our usual complement of observation
balloons. These were held by long wire cables and contained two
observers each.
One fine clear day five of these balloons were up, high in the air,
watching movements behind the German lines. Macpherson and I were
tramping along through one of our deep communication trenches on some
errand, when the sound of distant, anti-aircraft shells bursting in
the air, reached our ears. We climbed out at the Beehive dug-out to
see what was up. Far above the balloon nearest Arras there was
appearing, against the blue sky, many little white clouds of smoke
caused by exploding shrapnel, while near the ground we saw two open
parachutes descending, the observers had "jumped for it." From the
smoke above there emerged an aeroplane darting straight down on the
balloon. Almost quicker than I can tell it, a volley of incendiary
bullets from the plane had ignited the big bag, and it fell to the
earth like a twisted torch in smoke and flame.
The German never swerved, but headed away for the next balloon. The
observers from that one by this time were nearing the ground under
their parachutes, and in a few minutes the observers of all five were
either on the ground, or floating gracefully to the earth beneath
their big "umbrellas," seeking safety from this nervy Hun. By this
time everything along the Ridge that could reach him was turned
loose. There was a perfect storm of shrapnel, machine-gun and
rifle-fire. Hundreds of shells exploded around him and thousands of
bullets sped towards him, and it seemed impossible that he could
continue. But he didn't even try to escape. He went right on
through that deadly fusilade, courting death every second, until he
had reached the Souchez and had burned every one of our five
balloons. Then and not till then, did he turn towards Hun-land.
In spite of our irritation at his complete success, we could not deny
the pilot's great bravery. The recognition of his courage was
heartier because he really put none of our men in actual jeopardy,
although he offered himself and his machine-gunner as an absurdly
easy target to our guns throughout the whole affair. No doubt his
mate, he himself, and the plane were hit a good many times but not
enough to bring them down or stop their work. In all probability the
plane would have to go to the repair sheds and the men into hospital
after they landed.
The whole show, which we had seen clearly from start to finish, was
over in ten minutes, and we went down to tell the fellows in the
dug-out what we had just seen. The description called up memories of
other deeds of bravery, and some stirring stories were told. I
offered one about my dog Ben who, I claimed, had a place by right in
the world's list of heroes.
* * * * *
It is hard to believe that dogs do not think along much the same
lines as we do in the simpler relations of life. I find it
impossible to disbelieve in affection existing between dogs and men,
and in a marvellous readiness on the part of the dog to go the whole
way in laying down its life for the man it loves. I do not know how
to interpret their actions otherwise.
One winter, among my dogs I had a half-mastiff, half-wolf, that I had
raised from a pup. He was my favorite, a big, awkward, good-natured
fellow who wanted to follow me everywhere, and when I left him at
home would cry, in his own way, with vexation. He would go wild with
joy when I returned. He also seemed to take upon himself the
guarding of the cabin. Strangers might come and go for all the
others cared, but Ben would always stop every man he didn't know at
the cabin door, not in an ugly or noisy way, but as a matter of duty,
until I opened the door and welcomed the stranger in. He never
interfered with those who had been once admitted to the cabin should
they come again, noticing them only to give a friendly whine and wag
of the tail. I suppose you can all match my story thus far, but let
me go on.
One hard winter in the Yukon, when the snow was very deep on the
hills, and there had been a prolonged spell of unusually extreme
frost, the wolves commenced to come down at night into the valleys
close to the cabins to hunt and devour stray dogs, or anything else
they could get. One night I was roused from sleep by the very
unpleasant noise of a howling, snarling, wolf-pack fighting over
something not far from my cabin. I wrapped my fur robe hastily about
me, and opening the door peered out. They were gathered in a circle
round what was apparently a crippled wolf, doing it to death. I shut
the door and hurried into my clothes. I wanted to have a shot at
them, for there was a bounty on wolves, and their furs were worth
something.
As I slipped out of the door after dressing, it occurred to me to see
if my dogs were secure under cover. They were whining and uneasy,
but I found them wisely keeping safe in their stout log kennels, all
but one of them. Ben's kennel was empty.
Instantly I knew what the brave young dog had done. Here was a band
of strangers, suspicious looking characters, coming towards the
cabin. He went out to meet them alone. He must have known by
instinct, as the others did, that savage death would meet him in
those dim, gray, howling forms. Maybe he trembled with fear, but he
went out for my protection to engage in a hopeless fight against a
pack of ravenous timber-wolves.
Immediately I grasped the situation I fired at the edge of the pack.
They commenced to run, disappearing like ghosts in the moonlight on
the white mountain-side, but not before I got two of them. Poor Ben
was badly torn. I carried him in my arms into the cabin, lit the
fire, and in the candle-light dressed the great, tearing gashes. A
few minutes more and they would have had him killed and eaten.
For two days I worked as best I knew to save his life. But he was
suffering agony, and at last I decided it would be more merciful to
put an end to his pain by having him shot. I went up to the N.W.M.P.
Post and got Corp. "Paddy" Ryan to come and do it for me. We carried
him a little distance from the cabin, and laid him at the side of the
trail. I confess I turned my head away while Ryan shot. Ben rolled
down the hill a few yards through the snow, until he stopped against
a bush. We watched to see if there was any move. "He is dead," we
said, but to be sure I gave my whistle. For a minute nothing
happened, and then I saw his faithful, battered head moving up very
slowly out of the snow, and swaying to and fro. Ryan shot again.
Ben's head dropped and he died.
I think I did what was best in the circumstances, and maybe I'm
imagining motives that weren't there, but all the same there comes an
ache in my heart whenever I remember that last shot. In his
death-throes, blind and broken, his controlling impulse was to come
to me when I whistled. Perhaps he thought I needed him. I believe
there are dogs in heaven. Because the Bible says there are dogs kept
out, it is not accurate exegesis to assume that there are none let
in. And if I meet Ben I feel as if I'll have to try to explain it
all and ask forgiveness. But I don't think he will bear any grudge.
He was too big-hearted for that. I gave him a good grave on the
hillside near my cabin door. It was all I could do for him then.
_IX._
_A Trail Sermon_
In October, 1917, orders came to join in the big push on the Flanders
front in what proved a vain attempt to cut the enemy lines of
communication with the Belgian coast held by the Germans and used as
a resort for submarines. The Canadians were asked to take
Passchendaele Ridge which rose abruptly about 300 feet above the
miles of mud flats its guns dominated. These muddy fields had been
captured by Australians and New Zealanders after desperate fighting,
but it was almost impossible to hold them without terrible punishment
from the concentrated German artillery fire, bombing, and
machine-gunning because of the enemy's position on the Ridge. No
trenches could be made in the mud for the sides would slip back in,
and there was practically no protection for our men outside the few
small concrete blockhouses or "pill boxes" the Huns had built. So we
had either to withdraw or go on and chase the enemy off the Ridge.
The 9th brigade of the famous Third Canadian division was chosen for
the post of honour. This was the task of capturing the almost
unassailable German positions on Bellevue Spur which was a part of
the Passchendaele heights lying immediately in front of us. Of the
brigade, the 43rd battalion (the "Camerons" of Winnipeg) and 58th
were to make the attack, with the 52nd in close support. The 116th,
junior battalion of the brigade, was employed as a labour battalion,
and a dirty, dangerous job they had, "packing" ammunition and
"duck-walks" at night through the mud up to the attack area, doing
pick-and-shovel work, and afterwards carrying back wounded men under
shell-fire.
Friday, October 26th, was the fateful day. Someone suggested that
Friday was unlucky and 26 was twice 13, but this was countered by the
seven letters in October and the lucky number at the end of 1917! It
wasn't luck in sevens or thirteens that won the battle, but simply
that we had men and officers with an unyielding determination to
carry on in spite of all obstacles, unless wounded or killed, until
their objective was gained. Contributing causes there were in
training, equipment, and leadership that helped our men to do the
impossible, but the deciding factor, the real cause of victory, lay
in the brave hearts of the soldiers who faced the Spur that chill
October morning.
The ground had been reconnoitred by Lt.-Col. Grassie, our O.C., who
had to leave for Canada before the attack took place. Our operations
were carried out under the skilful direction of Major Chandler.
In one of my old note-books I find a description of the affair
scribbled Oct. 27th during a leisure moment in Waterloo pill-box.
"From Banks Farm we moved up to within striking distance of Bellevue
Spur taking over from a battalion of Wellington New Zealanders.
Headquarters occupied the concrete blockhouse near the foot of the
spur and about 400 yards away from the enemy lines. We were under
direct machine-gun fire and sniping from their posts on the crest of
the hill we had to capture. Our blockhouse was continually shelled.
The enemy guns had its location to a nicety and kept it under almost
constant fire. Twelve men in all were killed at the door at
different times during the few days we stayed there.
"In the attack yesterday morning, fifty of our men in the centre were
able to make and hold their objective, but the battalion on our right
was forced to fall back to the edge of the hill after being exposed
to a fire which cut it down to ineffective strength. One of our
companies on the left ran into a murderous fire from a group of
German posts opposed to them. We withdrew to the brow of the hill
and sent word back for re-inforcements. Our centre still held but
their position was precarious and before nightfall would have become
untenable if these Germans to their left were not dislodged. The
52nd were ordered to reinforce our left wing and renew the attack.
This time we were successful, 150 prisoners were captured in
half-an-hour and the whole front cleared. The 58th were enabled to
advance and we had no further trouble in consolidating our position."
Two V.C's were won that day. Bobby Shankland, a subaltern in the
43rd, under enemy observation with its consequent machine-gun and
rifle fire, made the trip from one of our advanced platoons back to
battalion headquarters and out to his men again. He brought accurate
information at a critical time when prompt action properly directed
meant victory; the lack of it meant defeat. The renewed attack on
the left wing with the definite objective he advised saved the day
for us. He was recommended for the highest award and it was duly
awarded him. Lt. O'Kelly of the 52nd won the coveted honor by the
gallant and effective way in which, regardless of personal risk, he
led a company of the 52nd against a group of pill-boxes filled with
machine-gunners.
Many other gallant deeds were done on the hill that day of which
there was no one left to tell.
During this time a stream of wounded had been coming back past
Waterloo Pill-box where our battalion Medical Aid Post was at work.
The floor of the blockhouse was a foot deep in mud and water. The
stretchers were almost submerged and the back of the man was almost
always in the water. At times the stretcher-cases were lying in
three rows outside in the cold, the rain, and the mud. There they
were constantly in danger of death from shelling. Twice shells burst
among them, killing and wounding again a dozen men on each occasion.
Half the cases never got into the dressing station. They were given
a look-over, fixed up as well as we could, and sent hobbling off over
the "duck-walks" to safer areas farther back. Only the most severe
cases were held for the attention of the overworked M.O. The long
stretcher journeys to the rear were terrible experiences for both
bearers and wounded. They had to pass through shelling, gas, and
bombing. The carrying parties often became stretcher cases
themselves on the way back, and the wounded in that rough journey
must have suffered tortures of both mind and body.
The outstanding memory of it all is that of the mud. It would seem
impossible for a sensible man to develop a bitter hatred towards an
inanimate and apparently harmless thing like mud. But it was "the
very devil" to our minds. We walked in it for endless miles. It
held our feet and wore us out. If you fell sideways you would
probably break or sprain your ankle. We sat down in the mud, slept
in it, fought in it. It clogged our rifles and machine-guns. We
cursed it with intensity. We ate rations that tasted of mud, wore
clothes that were loaded with it, carried with aching muscles
stretchers and wounded that were made heavy with mud. Many wounded
were lost in it, and many of our dead, that we never found, were
swallowed by it. Hindenburg in his memoirs considers Passchendaele
the most terrible affair his armies had anywhere engaged in. It was
bad for them but it was worse for us attacking, and the thing that
made conditions almost unbearable for both sides was that omnipresent
vampire of those rain-soaked Flanders' fields.
On the 28th we were relieved and moved back and, in a day or two,
found ourselves in tents in the mud of a ploughed field near Nine
Elms back of Poperinghe. We had done nobly, so they told us, added
fresh laurels to our fine record, fought a fight and won a victory,
the praises of which would resound throughout the Empire. Needless
to say we were glad we had not failed but for all that there was much
unspoken sorrow in the men's hearts. So many of our comrades had
been killed. What a remnant our 100 men looked when the battalion
paraded to hear some fine words of heartsome praise from our brigade
commander, Gen. Hill.
On the Sunday morning we had a parade service. It lasted altogether
only fifteen minutes. It was a prayer for the mourners at home, a
hymn of thanksgiving, and a word of cheer to ourselves. Towards
evening Sergt-Major Lowe told me that some of the men wanted me to
come over and talk to them. In one of the tents, I found thirty or
so crowded in to hear a story of the Yukon, and in the tents close
around others were listening as I talked. We were all in a serious
mood, and somehow the consciousness of this influenced me, that
night, to weave my stories into a message in which there would be
comfort and cheer for men who had been hard hit, and had faced in
roughest form the stern realities of life, and death, and suffering.
There was help in it, I know, because I spoke of Jesus of Nazareth.
When you want to minister to men in such times, don't your thoughts
just naturally turn to the Man of Nazareth? So I spoke of Him and
clothed my message in Klondike phrases and imagery. Here it is very
much as I gave it that evening at Nine Elms.
* * * * *
We are all feeling a little bit down these days. The savagery of war
and our heavy losses in men we knew and loved has stirred deep
thoughts in us, grave inner questionings why these things should be,
perplexing difficulties about the meaning of life and the power of
death, the reason of suffering and the goodness of a God who permits
it, criticisms of a social order, nominally Christian, which produces
the barbarities we have witnessed and taken part in. We are groping
for light like the blind, and wishing we could find a sure guide in
our thinking on these tangled problems, in whose solution we might
find satisfaction and assurance.
There is one song of all our soldier-songs that I think will live and
that is the one where we sing of "a long, long trail a-winding into
the land of our dreams." There's something true to experience about
the thought of the long road of life. It takes me back to old trail
days in the North, and I picture the long, long, trail of life
winding its way from out of the mists of the past, through pleasant
valleys and over windswept mountain summits, on and on into the
unexplored land of the future. My message is simple enough. It is
an appeal straight from your padre's heart that in your sorrow and
uncertainty you decide to take Jesus of Nazareth as your guide down
the trail of life for all the days that are to come. I ask you to
follow Him because He is the very guide you need to find the right
trail and keep it under your feet to the end. Life is all we've got
and it is therefore too precious to risk in any unnecessary way. It
is so important that we find and keep the right trail and save our
lives from spiritual death, we cannot afford to accept any guide who
has not the very finest credentials. What are the credentials of
Christ when He offers himself as our Guide? They may be spoken of in
many ways, but I am going reverently to put him to the three tests
any guide in the Yukon would have to face before he could qualify to
lead anyone on a mid-winter trip into new country over an unknown
trail beset with dangers.
But before I can get to this examination of His credentials I know
many of you are mentally stumbling over difficulties you have with or
about the Bible. It has been said with much truth that "the Bible
has kept many an earnest man from Christ." It is not going to do it
with you if I can prevent it. I have heard you wondering about the
truth of the Garden of Eden story, about a God who hardened Pharaoh's
heart so that he could slay the first-born of all the Egyptians, the
story of Jonah and the fish, the difficulties of accepting Biblical
science and history, the miracles, and such like things, and when you
all have given your special stumbling-blocks I could probably add
some of mine that you hadn't thought of. I am not going to attempt
just now to deny or remove any of these particular difficulties but
show you a way round them, a right way of approach to the Bible, so
that instead of keeping you from Christ it can fulfill its divine
mission of revealing Him.
I had a partner with me for one winter in my log-cabin at Gold
Bottom, way in the Klondike hills. His name was Jack Crowe, a Nova
Scotian, who had come out from Dawson to teach the little school we
had started for the dozen children on the creek. We took turns at
cooking. One winter morning, the mercury clear out of sight in the
bulb of our thermometer, it was my turn to get out and light the fire
and make breakfast. This consisted principally of oatmeal porridge,
bacon, bread of our own make, and coffee. There were two big bowls
of porridge with nothing left in the pot. We sat down, asked a
blessing, and commenced our breakfast. The first spoonful I took my
teeth struck on something hard. It wasn't porridge and I took it out
of my mouth. It was a button. What did I do? Throw my bowlful of
porridge away and do without half a breakfast on account of that
button which I couldn't swallow? No, I did just what you or any
other ordinary man would have done. I placed the button beside my
plate and ate the porridge with relish, and I think if there had been
twenty-five buttons in that porridge I'd have done the same, an odd
button or two out of place wasn't going to deprive me of my needed
breakfast. Fifty below zero makes you too hungry to be fastidious.
Further, let me take you into my confidence, I found the place where
that button belonged before the day was over, sewed it on, and it did
good service.
Of course you see my point. I don't blink the difficulties in our
thinking about the Bible. They exist. Most of them can be explained
when we study the subject a bit, some few are still half-solved
puzzles to me which I enjoy working at when I have leisure, and some
I suppose I shall never quite see through; but just let us lay them
all aside for the time being and go straight to bed-rock and see if
there is gold in the claim of Christ himself. You know, by the way,
it is strange how what at one time we thought useless material in the
Bible finds its place as we gain more experience of life. When I was
very young the psalms seemed almost meaningless. Now some of them
voice the deepest longings of my soul for I have learned the
bitterness of life as well as its sweetness. The minor prophets at
the end of the Old Testament seemed to be "cumberers of the ground"
until I learned something of the crookedness of present day politics,
the prevalence of the cancer of sanctimonious hypocrisy, and the
power of Mammon-worship to obstruct social reforms long overdue.
Then it seemed that a book like Amos was not only up-to-date, but far
ahead of us. There are passages in the fifth chapter that should be
painted in giant letters on the walls of legislatures, in halls of
justice, in the market-place, and above the pulpits of Christendom.
But leave your lesser problems unsolved for the time and get the
first, biggest question settled as to the validity of Christ's claim
to be able to guide us safely through life.
In the old stampede days up there, and it's the same still, the first
qualification demanded in a guide was that he should know the trail.
It was impossible to talk business on any other basis. Every other
virtue your would-be guide possessed would be useless without that
essential one. Christ is prepared to stand that test, make it as
"acid" as you like. How can we test Him when we do not ourselves
know the way? We all have a God-given intuition by which we can tell
that the direction the guide would have us go is right or wrong.
Even a Canadian who had never been in Scotland and wanted to go there
would have "horse-sense" enough not to follow a man who offered to
take him to Edinburgh by going five thousand miles due West from
Halifax.
So with Christ. He asks no blind faith or sanctified superstition.
What direction would He lead us? What is the great burden of His
message accepted by all Christian Churches down underneath the load
of dogma, form and ceremony? Where would He lead us if we followed
Him? The road is marked by two parallel lines, the eternal
boundaries of the Christ trail, on the one side it is
heart-righteousness and on the other brotherly kindness; and to show
us what He meant, He walked that trail Himself His life through.
It's a great thing to have a guide who knows the trail not only "on
the map" but has been over every bit of it and knows it perfectly.
He shows by His own life just what He means, the heart right as His
was right, and a brotherly-kindness that gladly lays down its life to
help others. Doesn't it seem to you to be the right direction, the
right trail, the right guide?
This seems to me like trying to prove an axiom. You can't prove it
by process of logic. To state it is to prove it. We know by
intuition it is right and it is the only trail. Take the fundamental
need of heart-rightness. It is the heart of man in which evil
dwells. The cruel ambition that permitted this war originated in the
hearts of a group of men. The greed for money that refuses to permit
social iniquities to be removed has its habitation in men's _hearts_.
The whole horrid brood whose mother is selfishness exists only in
men's _hearts_. "_Out of the heart_" Christ said, evil comes.
Cleanse the heart and you clean the world. But you can't have your
heart right the way Christ teaches unless you have a place in it for
your brother. A Christian must be and will be deeply interested in
Social Reform. You can't follow Christ and forget your brother, for
the trail of Christ is the trail of self-sacrifice for others.
Christ then knows the right trail which would lead you and me and the
whole world unto a happier, sweeter day. I know no other way that so
completely satisfies my sense of what is right and true as the way of
Christ.
The second test of the worth of a guide, after I was satisfied that
he knew the way, was whether he was able and willing to help me when
I got into difficulties in hard places. The trail leads dizzily
round the mountain side with a precipice below. I'm a tenderfoot. I
have neither the nerve nor skill to take my dogs and my sleigh safely
past. I'd fall to my death surely if I attempt it. He tells me it's
the only way through, and he is right. I say I can't make it. He
replies that all he offered to do was to lead along the right trail.
It is up to me to follow. Or the mountain climb is so steep and the
snow so deep that I haven't strength for it. Again I appeal to this
imaginary guide. He says it is not his business to do anything more
than walk ahead and show me the way. But I can't follow him and I
know to camp on the mountain-side means death. No matter what
perfect knowledge such a guide would have it would mean tragedy for
me unless he had more than knowledge. But there is no guide, white,
Eskimo, or Siwash, that I have ever met would act that way. He would
take his own dogs round the mountain then come back and, with expert
strength, take me safely past the danger. He would help me somehow
to make the steep grade.
So on the trail of life there are the towering mountains of sin.
They lie across the right trail in every man's life. We are all
sinners. You remember how Christ once dispersed a mob. He said,
"Let him that is without sin cast the first stone," and while He
wrote on the ground they all took the chance, as we would have done,
to sneak away self-condemned. Well, no man can cleanse his own heart
of sin and yet no true man can rest content in sin. It must be done
and no human power can do it. If we are to get past the mountains of
our sins, and we must get past them or die, then our guide must be
able to get us over. That's why we need a Saviour. It meant
Gethsemane and Calvary to him. It is the Atonement, and whatever
varying interpretations it may have, it must ever mean that the Guide
is also a Saviour. He is getting us safe across to the God-ward side
of our sins. They are no longer in our way if we will but give
ourselves to Him to take us over. No longer are they a barrier
between ourselves and God as we journey on. Before we reach the land
of gold which we pilgrims are seeking, we also come to the dark
valley and mystery of death. Can He find a safe way for our feet in
the darkness? Will He leave us to follow when we cannot see him?
Not He. He found His own way safely through--that's the meaning of
His empty tomb--and He guarantees to hold us securely in that strange
experience at the end of the trail till, going on, we make through
the fog into the land beyond, and see the golden city of God. Our
guide is stronger than sin and death.
There is another test. My guide must not only know the trail and be
able to get me through safely but he must be one with whom I can
talk. Men used to go crazy in the North through sheer loneliness.
Days alone on the trail with your dogs amid the deep silences of the
sub-arctics makes you hungry for conversation with some other human
being. I have turned ten miles out of my way on a heavy trail simply
to get to some trapper or prospector where I might hear "the sweet
music of speech." I remember having as a guide on a three weeks trip
to the Lightning Creek Camp an Indian who was of the conventional
silent type. He knew the trail and his duties perfectly. I had only
one fault to find with him. He wouldn't or couldn't chat with me in
either English or Chinook. I paid him off at Lightning. I couldn't
stand it any longer. I hired another man for the return trip, not
such a capable guide, but one with whom I could have a little chat
around the camp fire in the evenings.
It is just like that on the trail of life. Many times we ache to
unburden our hearts to someone who will hear and understand and speak
comforting words to us. Our dearest earthly friends can't quite
enter into the intimate sanctuaries of a man's life. There are many
lonely places on our journey when heart and soul cry out for that
companionship that none can give but Jesus of Nazareth. "Comfortable
words He speaketh, while his hands uphold and guide."
He is my guide and I cannot do without Him. I would lose my life in
the wilderness if He should leave me to fend for myself. I have
utter confidence in Him. As I come to know Him better my faith grows
stronger. At the end of the trail, if I have time to think, I shall
have many regrets as I look back, but I know there is one thing I
shall never regret and that is that long ago I placed myself in the
hands of Jesus Christ for good and all.
So long thy power hath blest me,
Sure it still will lead me on,
O'er moor and fen, o'er crag and torrent,
Till the night is gone.
_X._
_How Cheechaco Hill was Named_
The war did the work of a can-opener on many national and individual
reputations, and discovered that their accepted labels were
misleading. The estimates we had formed of certain nations have
materially changed because of the part they took, didn't take, or
were slow about taking in this world-crisis. We saw the effect more
clearly on individuals. The standing a man had in his community
might be taken at its face value in the battalion for a few weeks,
but he was soon re-examined, and if necessary, the label changed to
be true to contents. This was especially evident overseas when we
were away from home and its influences. There is a camouflage
possible in civilian life where a man's real self is not known much
outside his own home. This camouflage was usually torn aside in the
army. We were thrown into such continuous intimate relations with
one another in the huts and outside them that there was little chance
for any man to travel under false pretences. It wasn't many days
before you were sized up physically, mentally, and morally. The
O.C., Adjutant, and senior officers were the only ones in a battalion
having more privacy and protected by military etiquette who, if they
wished, might wear a mask for a time, but not for long. The whole
battalion somehow soon got to know pretty much all about them, or
thought it knew, and labelled them accordingly.
Some men with fair reputations in their home town in Canada were
found in rare instances to be cads in camp and curs in the line. But
to the honor of those of the old British stock, our own Canadian men
in particular, the great fear in the hearts of multitudes of them was
that they might not be able to do or be all that the highest
traditions of race or family expected of them. They came from the
comfort of peaceful homes where war had meant only an old, foolish,
long-abandoned way of settling international disputes. At the call
of brotherhood, they left those quiet homes and came in their
hundreds of thousands to the old lands across the sea. There, in
training, they were surrounded with strange conditions of life, and
when later they went into the line were faced with tasks of
incredible difficulty and harshness. Throughout the long years of
war they were rarely disconcerted and never dismayed. Most of them
were just good, ordinary, Canadian boys, practically untested until
now, but in tribulation developing qualities that made them men "whom
the King delighted to honor." Labelled, if you like,
"plum-and-apple," when opened up they proved to be genuine
"strawberry." Faithful comrades, brave soldiers, they played the new
game so nobly and well during those weary, homesick, war-cursed years
that they won for Canada a name unsurpassed in honor among the
nations.
It was not so much the grand moment of an attack that revealed
character but the strain and monotony of the common round of a
soldier's life. It was the pack, the trenches, the mud, the dug-out,
and the hut, that showed you up for what you really were. When you
got a fruitcake from home did you "hog it" all yourself or share it
with your chums in generous chunks? Did you squeeze in near the
stove on a cold day no matter who else was shoved away? Did you
barely do your routine duty or go further and lend a helping hand?
These were the sort of tests in common-place forms that made it
impossible to hide your own true self from the other fellows. If you
asked me for instances I could fill a page with names from my own
acquaintance of young chaps previously untried who proved themselves
"gentlemen unafraid."
It was a severe test for the young men, but peculiarly hard for those
in our volunteer army who were middle-aged. With habits formed and
living a settled life at home, they abandoned it cheerfully, and
unflinchingly set about accommodating themselves in the most
unselfish spirit to necessary campaign conditions, which must have
been to them almost intolerable.
In this condition I have in mind Captain Turner, Medical Officer to
the 43rd Battalion for six months. He was a man near fifty years of
age, with wife and family left behind at home in a Western Ontario
town. "Doc" Turner joined us at Nine Elms, where we were resting in
the mud after our attack on Bellevue Spur. He came direct from the
base and had never seen any front line work. It was customary for
the M.O. and the Padre to live together and work together in and out
of the line, so he shared a tent with me. A few days after his
arrival we moved into the line for the second time on the
Passchendaele front. It was on the evening before this move that he
did me a service that I shall never forget. He "saved my face" in
the battalion. This is how it came about. That afternoon I sat in
my chilly tent writing some of the many letters which I had to write
to folks at home, telling about their heroic dead. Captain Turner
had gone over to Poperinghe. I sat too long at my work and got
chilled through. After supper I was feeling wretched and went to bed
hoping that a few hours warmth and rest would cure me. I got worse,
and about 10 o'clock to cap the climax, when I was feeling very
miserable, a runner came from the orderly room with the news that we
were to pull out for the line next morning, breakfast at five and
move at six. Then the horrible thought came to me that perhaps I
wouldn't be able to go with the battalion. If I weren't a great deal
better by morning I would have to stay behind in a C.C.S. at Remy.
What then would everybody think? It looked queer that I should be
going around quite well that day and then, when the order comes to go
back into the line, I take suddenly ill. I knew my own boys would
say nothing, but perhaps in the back of their minds they would wonder
if their padre was really scared. But no matter how charitable the
Camerons were it would look to outsiders deplorably like a genuine
case of malingering. My one and only hope seemed to lie in the magic
of Doc's medicines. "As I mused the fire burned." He had not
returned and the medical tent was a hundred yards away in the mud.
How anxiously I listened for his footsteps but it was one o'clock
before I heard the welcome sound. He was very tired with the
six-mile walk and busy day and after I told what the orders were I
hadn't the heart at first to let him know how sick and worried I was.
He had taken off one boot before in desperation I poured out my tale
of woe. Good old Doc! He cheerfully pulled on his wet boot again
and went out into the night and rain and through the mud, roused
Sergt. Sims and hunted around till he got the stuff he wanted. He
was soon back and made me swallow fifteen grains of aspirin. I would
have swallowed an earthquake if he had promised it would cure me.
Then he piled his greatcoat and one of his own blankets on me.
Enough to say I was clear of the fever in the morning and devoutly
thankful that, although a little shaky, I was able to form up with
the rest at six o'clock.
Doc played the game just like that all through his first spell in the
line. Often I wondered at the matter-of-fact way he carried on like
"an old hand" under conditions which were bad enough in all
conscience to everyone, but must have been doubly so to him. But if
the real stuff is in a man it will show up "under fire" some day, and
Captain Turner is only typical of thousands of uncertain-looking
"prospects" that assayed almost pure gold in the crucible of war.
When our turn was over and the welcome news came to move back to
divisional rest, Doc and I travelled out together with two or three
of the boys. We had about five miles to go and the Hun artillery
seemed to be chasing us with his shells. They dropped just behind us
with uncanny precision for a mile or two blowing up the slat
duck-walks we had come over. I was in the lead and because of "the
general scarcity of good men" I was hitting a fast pace. At last I
heard him call out, "Hold on, padre, I can't keep this pace any
longer. They can blow me to Kingdom-come if they like but I'm going
to slow up whatever happens." Strange, too, that slowing up saved
our lives, for a few minutes after we were stopped by a salvo of
shells ahead of us bursting where we would have been if Doc hadn't
put on the brakes.
The battalion moved far back to the sleepy little farming village of
Westerhem where one day Captain Ross, of the Y.M.C.A. sent a request
to come over and give a Klondike talk to the men in a neighbouring
town. That evening they filled the big marquee and stayed for over
an hour while I told them how Cheechaco Hill got its name. It is a
story with a moral and has a logical connection with my prologue.
What that is I think you will have little difficulty in discovering
if you read the story.
* * * * *
The creek names of the Klondike are filled with the romance of the
early days. They tell in large something of the story of the
pioneer. The names all have color. They speak of incident and
adventure, of hopefulness and disappointment, of loneliness and
homesickness. There's Dominion Creek and Fourth of July Creek. You
hardly need be told that a Canadian "discovered" one and a Yankee the
other. "Whisky Hill," "Squabblers' Bench," "Paradise Hill" has each
a story of its own and the names hint at it. Mastodon Gulch with its
remains of bone and ivory found in the ever-frozen gravels takes us
back to the giant Tuskers of those prehistoric ages before the
northland was gripped by the frost. Bear Creek suggests an adventure
resulting perhaps in a juicy bear-steak or a hurried scramble up a
tree. All Gold Creek, Too Much Gold, and Gold Bottom have the
optimism of their discoverers boldly disclosed. Of these three only
the last paid to work. I asked Bob Henderson, from Pictou County,
Nova Scotia, the discoverer of the Klondike Gold-fields, why he chose
the name "Gold Bottom." "On the principle," he said, "that it's wise
to give a youngster a good name to inspire him to live up to it. I
had a day-dream, you know, that when I got my shaft down to bed-rock
it might be like the streets of the New Jerusalem. We old-timers all
had these dreams. It kept us going on and on, wandering, and digging
on these lonely creeks for years." Last Chance Creek has a story of
its own and sometime I may tell you what I know of it. It entered
Hunker Creek about fifteen miles back of Dawson. In the rush days a
roadhouse was put up there and named after the Creek. Later it was
assumed that the creek was named after the roadhouse and that the
roadhouse got its name because it was the last chance to get a drink
outward bound on that trail!
But I must get to my story of Cheechaco Hill. There are two words in
common use in the Yukon, one is Sourdough and the other Cheechaco. A
sourdough is an old-timer, cheechaco is a Chinook word meaning
greenhorn, tenderfoot, or new-comer. In every old prospector's cabin
on a shelf behind the stove-pipe you would see a bowl which contained
sour dough from the previous baking. This was used as yeast to be
mixed in with the dough at the next baking. When he used any he
would always replace it with the same quantity of fresh dough sure to
be soured before he made bread again. The cheechaco had to learn how
to bake and usually would borrow some of this yeast-dough from some
old-timer down the trail until he had his own sour-dough and so
earned his graduate title. Now for my story.
In the winter following the discovery of the Klondike diggings, two
Australians were sitting in their cabin on Bonanza Creek at No. 5
below Discovery, having a smoke after a hard day's grind down the
drift and on the windlass. One of them was telling with great relish
of a practical joke he had played that day on two cheechacos. The
winter trail in the creek valley ran close on their shaft. That
afternoon two men, evidently partners, hauling their outfit and
sleigh had stopped for a rest and one of them had climbed up the dump
to the windlass and, after a word or two of greeting, commenced to
tell their difficulties. They wanted to find some place to put in
their stakes, "open" ground that they could "claim" for their own on
which to prospect. They had come seven miles up the creek and there
seemed to be nothing open. They asked the Australian if he could
tell them where they could stake. This question revealed them as the
most verdant of cheechacos, for if you knew of any unstaked ground
likely to have paydirt in it you weren't going to give your
information to a stranger. You or your partner would slip away
quietly after dark. You would carefully endeavour to conceal your
movements until you had the ground securely staked and recorded.
Even then any information you might have would only be given to other
friends. So of course he told the strangers he could not help them.
The cheechaco then asked him if it would be any use staking on the
mountain side, overlooking the creek. This was too much for the
old-timer for everyone with any sense knows that alluvial gold can't
climb a hill. It was a natural law that the heaviest substances
always seek the lowest levels. Gold was no exception to this rule.
You find it in bed-rock in the valleys where it has burrowed its way
down whenever a run of water has loosened things up and given it a
chance. So the Australian couldn't resist the temptation to agree
that there was lots of room on the mountain-side, plenty of trees,
they'd be above the frost-fog and "nearer heaven" than in the creeks.
They took the thing seriously, asked a few more questions about
correct methods of staking and recording and then went on their way.
It was a right good joke and such green specimens were certainly
proper game; somebody would put them wise up at the Forks anyway, and
the two had a hearty laugh over the incident.
A day or two afterwards they saw a small tent and the smoke of a fire
on the hill opposite, sure enough the cheechacos had "bit." They had
staked two claims, a "bench" and a "hillside" adjoining, and were
cutting wood and hauling moss for a cabin. The news spread along
Bonanza until all the creek knew about it and laughed. The two men
didn't sense anything wrong and looked upon the Australians as their
friends. They often came down to the cabin to get advice about
building their cabin, how to fit the corners, what size to make it,
where to get the moss for the roof and chinking between the logs in
the walls. They needed pointers about cooking and a supply of
sourdough for their first batch of bread. Apart from their ignorance
of frontier ways, they were right good fellows. One came from
England, the other, Nels Peterson, from Sweden. They had fallen in
with one another in Seattle when they happened to be outfitting in
the same store, there they had spoken to one another, got acquainted,
and agreed to go north as partners. One was a professional Swedish
music-hall comedian and the other a London "cabby" with a witty
tongue and a kind heart. Such were the strange partnerships of the
Klondike.
In a few weeks the cabin was completed, seven feet by eight. The
next step was to sink a shaft. By this time the old-timers were
regretting their part in the affair. They decided not to say
anything until after the cabin was finished, because these strangers
would have to build a cabin somewhere in which to live. Now they
hesitated to confess the trick they had played on their new found
friends. They concluded that the best way out for all concerned was
to let them learn necessary lessons in cabin building and sinking a
shaft, and then tell them, when they had gone down a few feet and
found no gold, that probably they had better go and try again on some
outlying creek like Eureka or Black Hills. That looked the easiest
way out of a situation which had become unexpectedly embarrassing.
The best they could do now was to say nothing and give every
assistance in hurrying the farce to its finish. After the cabin was
completed the snow was shovelled away from a ten-foot patch where a
landslide had made it comparatively level. There a fire was lit to
thaw the ground, for it never thaws in the Klondike except by
artificial means. When this had been burnt out they dug down three
or four feet to frost, cleared out the hole, and put down another
fire. So by successive "fires" they slowly worked their way down.
At ten feet they had to stop digging operations to make a
hand-windlass, an "Armstrong hoist" we called it, and a wooden
bucket. The fires for thawing were still needed. Now one man worked
down the shaft and the other on the windlass hoisting the filled
bucket and lowering the empty one. They thawed and dug this way
through four feet of moss, then twelve feet of black "muck" before
they struck gravel. They had been told not to bother about "panning"
in muck. There was never gold in muck anyway. When they got into
gravel a pan of it was taken into the cabin and washed out. There
were no results.
Keenly disappointed they went down to their two friends that night
and told them of their bad luck in not getting gold when they got
into gravel. They were interrupted by excited exclamations and
questions. Surely it couldn't be really gravel, they must be
mistaken for no gravel could get up there. If it were true gravel it
meant the upsetting of all current placer mining theories, and the
prospect of unlimited possibilities of new gold deposits on hillsides
and benches. Such news would set the whole Klondike on the stampede
again. But of course there must be a mistake. It was broken up
slide-rock and not gravel. Next morning they would come up and have
a look. So they did and there was no doubt about the gravel. The
cheechacos were advised to go on "sinking" and on no account to
"talk" at store or roadhouse. After every thaw the Australians went
up to see how things looked. One day "colors" were found in the pan,
and after that the four worked together unceasingly in rushing the
digging as fast as the need of thawing would permit. The light
flakes of yellow gold continued but it wasn't "pay" yet.
One memorable evening, after an all-day spell of work without
panning, the four men gathered in the little cabin around the panning
tub in the corner to test dirt taken out eight feet lower than the
last sample. They were all bending over eagerly, watching in the dim
candle light one of the sourdoughs, an expert, who was squatted
beside the tub with the pan in his hands under water. Holding it
aslant, he twisted it back and forth with a sort of circular motion
until the top dirt was gradually washed off and the gravelly stones
left. These he scraped off with his hands and then repeated the
whole process. Slowly the pan was emptying. If there was any gold
it would be slipping down to the bottom of the pan at the lower edge
of it. The candle was held closer and breathlessly the four men
watched as the last few inches of the pan bottom cleared of dirt.
There was only an inch of black sand and gravel now. The miner
swirled the pan in the water again, then brought it up and near the
candle, ran his finger through the margin of dirt still remaining and
as he did so he left uncovered a shining track of yellow gold! There
was a moment's silence, a hurried, deft swirl in the water and the
pan was carried over to the table. There with bent heads they gazed
with tense emotion first at the slender thread of gold and then at
one another. Not much in itself, but it meant--well, who could tell
what amazing new finds it might mean? Perhaps richer than anything
yet known! Soon they were talking in earnest excited tones. The
impossible had come true and they had found, on that hill side, a
"prospect" which, if the pay dirt continued for any distance or
depth, would bring untold wealth to them. It was a great night in
that Klondike cabin. The sourdoughs confessed without reservation
their attempt to play off a joke and how they had long been ashamed
of it. The cheechacos laughed it off in good-will that was
heightened by the happy outcome of it all. The Australians were to
stake claims beside them that night and then to rouse their friends
who were near and have them stake on half interests. The hillside
was to be called on the records "Cheechaco Hill" in memory of its
discoverers.
By the next day the news had leaked out, the camp went crazy, and in
a week every piece of ground right over the Klondike summits from
creek to creek had been staked off in claims, no matter how absurdly
unlikely the locality was, although in the scramble many very rich
hillsides were found.
Some punster said that the only "benches" in the Klondike that
weren't staked were those of my log-church at Gold Bottom! And it
was practically true. I remember once when going down Indian River
noticing a tree with its trunk "blazed," and on the blaze these words
were written: "I, Ole Nelson, claim 25 ft. straight up in the air for
climbing purposes!" He had been chased up that tree by a bear and had
put the event on record in this way, and indeed about the only
direction by that time that was open for staking was "up in the air."
There was, however, much reason for this indiscriminate staking. It
seemed as if gold was likely to be found anywhere now that it climbed
up the hillsides. But in a year or two the mining operations showed
how the gold got there. Ages ago there had been an upheaval of some
kind that had changed the course of the streams and had made valleys
hills, and hills valleys. These deposits were in what had formerly
been river or creek bottoms. The hill-side seemed an unlikely place
but the gold was there, and the digging disclosed it buried deep
where God had placed it, not haphazard, but according to one of the
laws of nature.
_XI._
_The Lost Patrol_
In the Spring of 1918, following the smashing attack of the Germans
towards Amiens, orders came from the French Military Headquarters,
that all civilians were to move from towns near the line to safer
areas further back. This order nearly got me into a "mix-up." It
happened I was billeted at Madame Buay's humble home in La Brebis,
when the new regulation came to them like a bomb from the blue.
One day soon after, at 5.30 A.M., Madame and her boy came to my room
to bid me a tearful adieu. It was arranged by the authorities that
they must leave before nine o'clock that morning. There was much
talk, and would I help her so kindly by buying her poor little
rabbits. They would starve if left behind and she could not take
them. "There were just three," she said. I bought them for twenty
francs; thought they would make a savoury stew for our Mess.
About half past nine, I went to view my livestock. When behold, to
my dismay, I found that my three rabbits had increased, in the course
of nature, to ten, and there were signs of more "in the offing." On
the top of this came an unexpected message for the Battalion to move
out at 2 P.M. that day. I tried to sell my rabbits to the local
butcher, who had been permitted to stay until he cleared out his
stock of meat. But no, he wouldn't buy them. They weren't, of
course, fit to kill for food. At last in desperation, for I couldn't
leave the beasts to starve, I rounded up the half-dozen small boys
left in the place and unloaded my rabbits on them. I knew the
ordinary boy cannot resist the offer of a live rabbit, even though
father and mother might object. I would be gone by that time anyway.
I tell only the simple truth, (those who know rabbits will not
question it), when I state that I had not three nor ten, but sixteen
rabbits, big and little, to give away to the boys. A second
contingent had arrived numbering six! I was relieved to be quit of
them, for at the rate they had multiplied that day I could see
myself, before many weeks, marching at the head of a battalion of
rabbits!
It was pitiful to see these French people leaving the homes in which
they, or their ancestors, had lived for generations. Pathos and
humor combined, sometimes, in the appearance of the odd conveyances
and the motive-power used. I saw one dear old lady propped up in a
wheelbarrow, her son trundling her along. There were plenty other
strange and sorry sights. With it all they seemed cheerful, and
determined to make the best of everything.
This battalion-trek I stayed behind with a half-company of men who
had been held by fatigue-duties. When we set out we decided to try a
short-cut across the fields, but we wandered considerably, and had
not reached our destination when supper-time drew near. We had no
provisions with us. While the men were resting by the road, tired,
hot, and hungry, I sauntered off by myself to where I noticed a
wreath of smoke above the trees of an orchard. I saw a few soldiers
there, standing by a fire not far from the farm-sheds. As I got
closer two of them came hesitatingly towards me, saluted, and one
said, "Sir, is your name Pringle?" I said it was, and then we
discovered that eighteen years before we had knocked around together
in the Atlin gold-diggings.
They remembered me after all those years! They belonged to a
detachment of Canadian Railway Troops. The upshot of it was that
when I told them of my tired and hungry kilties, they got me into
friendly touch with the Q.M. Sergeant billeted in the farmhouse. He
showed himself a right good fellow and in short order I was on my way
back to my men heading a small but well-laden carrying-party. Our
boys could hardly believe their eyes when they saw us toddling along,
laden with two big kitchen dixies of hot tea, a dozen loaves of bread
and a full tin of good, fresh hard-tack. The tea and rations
refreshed us and made the remaining kilometres easy.
We found the battalion located in a picturesque little farm-village.
The group of houses lay snugly hidden among trees, while out on all
sides, over rolling land, one could see long stretches of cultivated
fields, in blocks of brown and varying shades of green. Other than
the farm buildings, there was only a small store, a blacksmith shop,
and a tavern. The houses were ancient, built with out-buildings to
enclose a court-yard, in the centre of which was, almost invariably,
a manure-pile and cess-pool.
The inhabitants were primitive in their ways, kindly farm-folk of
simple manners, hard-working and apparently contented.
One well, over 130 feet deep, served for public use. It was worked
by a hand-windlass and to get a pail of water was a laborious
process. The rough wooden shelter over it was erected, so the
inscription read, in 1879. I suppose it was an event in village
history when that shelter was added. There must be a wide variety of
things, besides water, at the bottom of that well. The water tasted
good enough, but one's imagination should not be allowed to work too
carefully over the subject.
Chatting along the way after we left the Railway Troops, my talk
naturally turned from the kindness done us through those Klondike
friends, to other fine men I knew in the North. I was made to
promise to tell "the bunch" a Yukon Story some evening after we got
properly settled in our new billets. Two or three nights afterwards,
I redeemed my promise. In one of the old barns, sitting on a low
beam, with the men lying around in the straw, I related to them the
grim tragedy of the Lost Patrol.
* * * * *