after Midnight, our Guide groping out the way, by the help of the
Stars, which now bended more to the North than formerly. As soon as it
was light enough to look about us, we found our selves in a wild open
Desart, the Ground, in some Places covered with a sort of Heath, and
in others quite bare. Nor had we travelled long after the Sun was up,
before, by the help of a rising Ground, we discovered _Arsoffa_, the
Place whither we were tending, which gave us hopes we should quickly
be there: But having a dry tiresome Plain to traverse, and the hot Sun
causing our Mules a little to slacken their Pace, 'twas after ten a
Clock before we reach'd it: And which was more vexatious still, finding
no Water any where near, we were necessitated to proceed forward for
the River _Euphrates_, which we found four Hours distant from hence.
_Arsoffa_, or (as the _Arabs_ call it) _Arsoffa Emir_, seems to be
the remains of a Monastery, having no Town nor Village near it, and
being one continued Pile of Building of an oblong Figure, stretching
long ways East and West, and enclosing a very capacious Area: At a
distance it makes a glittering shew, being built of _Gypsine Stone_,
or Rock-Ising-glass, resembling Alabaster, but not so hard; several
Quarries of which we past by in our way to it. When the Sun shines upon
it, it reflects the Beams so strong, that they dazzle the Eyes of the
Spectators. Art or Accuracy in the Workmanship we found none; and but
very little Carved Work, and that mean enough; nay, the very Cement
they made use of, is but little better than Dirt; so that it's no great
Wonder to see it in Ruins, though it has not the appearance of any
great Antiquity. Round about were the little Apartments or Chambers for
the Monks, built Arch-wise, only one Story above Ground; but underneath
are several Cells or Vaults, larger than the Chambers, which perhaps
might serve for their Schools, or Working-houses. In the midst of the
Area stand the Ruins of several Buildings, some of which seem to have
been Cisterns for Water, and it may be the Bathing-Places: But the most
remarkable was one, which probably was the Abbot's or Bishop's House,
there having been something more Pains bestow'd upon it, than the rest:
And another, which was the Relicks of their Church. This was formerly
no unhandsom Structure, being built in the form of our Churches, and
distinguish'd into three Isles, of which the middle one is supported
by eighteen turned Marble Pillars, with Capitals upon them, not of
Marble, but of a sort of Clay, and Cast into the shape they are in, but
of a Colour exactly resembling the Pillar it self. That which perswades
to believe them Cast, is a Greek Inscription to be seen on all of them;
the Letters whereof are not made by Incision in the Stone, but seem to
be stamped, standing out higher than the distance between them; and on
one of them, by mistake, they are so placed, as to be read after the
Oriental manner, from the right Hand to the left. The Words are these,
with the Crucifix before, as follows:
✠ ΕΠΙ ΣΕΡΓΙΟΥ ΕΠΙΣΚΟ. ΤΟΥ ΣΥΝΓΕΝ ΜΑΡΩΝΙΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΧΩΡΕΠΙΣΚΟ.
From hence our Guide led us to the River, by the assistance of two
little Hills, which are known by the Name of _Aff Dieu_, our way lying
North, and a little bending to the East. The sight of the River was a
very pleasing Prospect; and to our great comfort, we found the Water
very clear, happening to be there before the Rains, and after the
Snow-Waters (which swell and disturb it in the Summer-time) were all
past: And our Happiness seemed the greater, having had so tedious and
thirsty a Journey of at least fourteen Hours, and neither our Selves
nor our Horses touch'd a drop of Water all Day. We pitch'd upon a Reach
of the River, where it was not very broad, not being above half a
Musket-shot over.
_October_ the 12th. This Morning, about Sun-rise, we proceeded on
our Voyage, keeping along the Banks of the River, which, for the
most part, led us West and North-West: And here we had pleasant
Travelling, having the River on the right Hand, and Hills of Marble
or other fine Stone, on the left; and delightful Groves of Tamarisk,
Mulberry, and other Trees to pass through. Here every thing about us
lookt fresh and verdant, and we met frequently Men and Women passing
on their Occasions, a thing to which (in our former Stages) we had
not been accustomed. We had also a pleasing Prospect of the opposite
Shore, and could see a great way into _Mesopotamia_, but could meet
with no Convenience to cross the River, which we were very desirous
to have done. There are no Places of Note remaining upon the River
either on one side or the other, only on the farther side we saw an
old Castle call'd _Giabar_, which made a good Shew, being situated on
the top of a Hill, and both for that and the way of Building, very
much resembling that of _Aleppo_, only that is the larger, and in the
midst of a City; this less, and has neither Town nor Houses about it.
On our side we past by a _Sheck_'s House call'd _Abul-Rarra_, and the
Ruins of a Town a little farther, where there was a square Tower built
of a very ordinary Brick, but pretty entire. After we had left these
Ruins, we rested to bait, under the Shadow of a Rock, wherein were many
Apartments and Conveniences cut to lodge in, which I suppose are made
use of in the Winter by the People, who, during the Summer, pitch
among the Trees by the River-side. In the Afternoon we continued our
Journey as before, keeping always at a little distance from the River,
till a little before Sun-set; when we came to a very convenient Place
upon the Banks, where we took up our lodging for that Night, having
travell'd between seven or eight Hours the whole Day.
_October_ the 13th. This Day we had the same Satisfaction as the Day
before, proceeding as near the River as the Road would permit; and
having made a Stage of about six Hours, we rested under the shade of
the Tamarisk Trees by the River side, hoping to have found conveniency
to have crossed it, but we could not. In our Way we saw nothing
observable but the Ruins of a City call'd _Baulas_, where the _Turks_
had formerly a _Sangiack_; but now there is never an Inhabitant in the
Place, nor House standing, but the Ruins of Houses, and an Octagonal
Tower of a considerable height, _viz._ One hundred and seven Steps, and
beautified on the outside with Flourishes and an Arabick Inscription
round about: It's a handsome Structure, and probably the Work of the
_Mamalukes_, since whose time little has been done to adorn, but
abundance to destroy and wast this Country. After Dinner, we mounted
sooner than ordinary; because hoping to reach the Tents of _Assyne_,
we were unwilling it should be late when we arrived: yet we made it
near Sun-set before we got to _Fay_, a Fountain by which he lay. We
had travell'd still on the same Point N. W. with the Prospect of
the River the greater part of the Way; the nearest Reach thereof not
being above an Hours Riding from the Fountain. On the Road we met with
several _Bandera_'s of the _Emir_'s Soldiers, who knowing our Guide,
and understanding we were going to him, gave us a very courteous
_Salam_, who else, perhaps, might have treated us with another sort
of Civility. The King's Tents spread over a large Plain, and took up
so vast a Space, that though we had the advantage of a rising Ground,
we could not see the uttermost extent of them. His own particular
Tent was pretty near the middle of the rest, which were pitch'd about
it, not in a circular manner, but stretching out in length as the
Plain open'd, or for the better conveniency of a Current of Water,
which from the Fountain ran through the midst of them. 'Twas not at
all distinguishable from the rest, but by its bigness, and a little
more Company about it, being all made of a sort of Hair-Cloth, which
seemed hardly a defence against Rain or Sun: But certainly they must
find otherwise, else their Necessity (they spending their Lives in
such moveable Habitations) would have taught them to have contrived
something better. It cannot well be doubted but they are descended from
the old _Arabs Scenitæ_, they living just after the same manner, having
no settled Abode, but remove from Fountain to Fountain, as they find
Grass for their Sheep and Camels, and Water for them and themselves.
They love to derive themselves from _Ismael_ the Son of _Abraham_; and
it may be they are descended from him, but I believe they would be
hard put to't to prove their Pedigree.
As soon as we alighted, we were attended by the Officers of the _Emir_,
and conducted to a very noble Tent built after the _Turkish_ Mode,
and pitch'd next to his own. Hither he sent to bid us welcome, and to
enquire how we had past in our Voyage; and presently after we had a
Repast of several Dishes of Meat set before us, to stay our Appetites
till a more plentiful Supper could be got ready. But before Supper the
King himself made us a Visit in Person, bidding us Welcome to _Fay_,
and asking what we had seen in our Travels that pleas'd us? how we
liked _Tadmor_? and whether we had found a Treasure there? For this
Notion sticks in the Heads of these People, That the _Franks_ go to see
old Ruins, only because they there meet with Inscriptions which direct
them to some hid Treasures. And therefore it's no unusual thing with
them, when they find a Stone with an Inscription on one side, to turn
that down to the Ground, that it might not be seen or read of any. But
we assur'd him we went with no such Expectations, but only out of a
desire to see the Place: Neither had we brought any thing away with us;
but a piece of Porphyry Stone, which, upon his Request, we shew'd him.
We let him see too, a kind of rude Draught which we had taken of the
Place; which he seemed to like. He made his Visit the shorter, that he
might not incommode us after our Journey; but desir'd us we would live
after our own Pleasure and to our Satisfaction, and command freely
whatever the Camp would afford; ordering some of his People constantly
to attend upon us. When there was mention made of our Design to be gone
the next Morning, he answer'd, It must not be; himself was invited the
next Day, to a great Entertainment, by one of his _Grandees_, and we
should accompany him: But the Day following, he would go out with us,
and Hunt part of our Way towards _Aleppo_. When Supper was brought in,
there was Victuals enough for three times our Number: A large Dish of
_Pilaw_ in the middle, and twelve or fifteen Dishes of several sorts
of Meat about it, all dress'd after their manner, but exceeding good,
and such as one might have fed heartily upon, had he not spoil'd his
Appetite before. After we had Eat and Drank what we pleas'd, we rose
up, and our Servants sat down in our Places; it being the Custom of the
_Arabs_, and _Turks_ too, from the Highest to the Meanest, all to eat
at the same Table: The best sort sit down first, and so in order till
all are satisfy'd, and then what remains is carry'd away. We might,
if we had pleas'd, have lodg'd under the same Tent where we eat; but
having Tents of our own pitch'd, some of our Company chose rather to
retire thither, to avoid being disturbed by too many Visitants.
_October_ the 14th. The next Morning, about ten a Clock, we were told
that the King was gone to the Entertainment, and expected we should
follow him; and that two young Camels were kill'd, to furnish this
sumptuous Feast; which is the highest piece of Magnificence and
Greatness to which these People, whose greatest Riches consist in
Camels, can arrive. The Tent was about a Furlong from ours; so mounting
our Horses, we rode to it, and found it surrounded with a numerous
train of Guests, three hundred at least, of different Sort and Quality:
It was very large of it self, and to be still more capacious, 'twas
left open toward the West. The King was seated at the North-end, about
the midst of the Tent, upon a Place raised with Cushions and Quilts,
and Carpets before him: Neither did he sit cross-Legg'd, as all the
rest of the Company were obliged to do, but in a leaning Posture.
They seemed to observe an exact Order in their Places; and when any
Person of Note enter'd, those that were near his Place, rose up and
stood till he had seated himself. But the far greatest part could not
come within the compass of the Ring, but stood behind the Backs of the
rest, leaving a spacious _Area_ vacant in the middle. When we entred,
they made room for us on the King's left Hand, which here is esteem'd
the more Honourable; where we sat down in the same Posture with those
about us, cross-Legg'd upon a thin Carpet. Before mid-day, a Carpet
being spread in the middle of the Tent, our Dinner was brought in,
being served up in large Wooden Bowls between two Men; and truly to my
apprehension, Load enough for them. Of these great Platters there were
about fifty or sixty in number, perhaps more, with a great many little
ones, I mean, such as one Man was able to bring in, strewed here and
there among them, and placed for a Border or Garnish round about the
Table. In the middle of all was one of a larger size than all the
rest, in which was the Camel's Bones, and a thin Broth in which they
were boiled: The other greater ones seemed all filled with one and the
same sort of Provision, a kind of Plumb-Broth, made of Rice, and the
fleshy part of the Camel, with Currants and Spices, being of something
a darker Colour than what is made in our Country. The lesser were, for
the the most part, charged with Rice dress'd after several Modes, some
of them having _Leben_, (a thick sour Milk) poured upon them. _Leben_
is a thing in mighty Esteem in these Hot Countries, being very useful
to quench Thirst: And truly we had need of it here; for I did not see a
drop of any sort of Liquor, excepting a Dish of Coffee before Dinner,
drank at this splendid Feast. Knives, Forks, Spoons, Trenchers, _&c._
are silly Impertinent Things in the Esteem of the _Arabs_: However, we
being known to make use of such things, had large Wooden Spoons laid
before us. When the Table was thus plentifully furnish'd, the King
arising from his Seat, went and sat down to that Dish that was directly
before him; and so did the rest, as many as it would contain, which
could not be much short of a hundred; and so without further Ceremony,
they fell to thrusting their Hands into the Dishes, and Eating by
Handfuls: Neither was there any occasion of Carving; only because
those Dishes in the middle were too remote to be reach'd, there was
an Officer on purpose, who stepping in among them, and standing in the
Spaces designedly left for that end, with a long Ladle in both his
Hands, helpt any one according to their Desire. When the King had eaten
what he thought fit, he rose up and wash'd, and retir'd back to his
former Seat; and we also did the like; others being ready to fill our
Places. Nor did we continue much longer under the Tent in that numerous
Crowd; for _Assyne_ perceiving us a little uneasie, and supposing
we had now sufficiently satisfy'd our Curiosity, though perhaps not
our Appetites, told us we might take our Liberty, and if we thought
fit retire to our Tents. This Favour we gladly accepted, and without
Ceremony returned, several of his Attendants waiting upon us back.
Here we had another Dinner set before us; and having some of our own
Wine and Water to Drink with it, it went down better with us than the
famous Camel-Feast. In the Evening, the King mounted to see the flight
of a new Hawk, and stay'd Abroad very late, his Hawk flying away: But
she was afterwards taken up by his Falconer; otherwise he had not been
in a good Humour all that Night, being a Man that delights very much
in Sport. After his return from Hawking, we went to Wait upon him at
his own Tent, to return him Thanks for his most courteous and royal
Reception of us, and to desire leave to depart the next Morning. Here
we found him surrounded with the chiefest of his People; and being
placed again on his left Hand, he entertain'd us with a great deal of
pleasant Discourse; and ask'd such Questions, as shew'd him to be a
Man of extraordinary Capacity and Judgment. As for Learning, they have
no such thing among them, and therefore it's not to be expected that
he should be a Scholar: But were he not a Person of more than common
Prudence and Understanding, he could never have managed that Wild and
Unruly People as he has done, ever since his Advancement to the Throne;
which must therefore have been the more difficult, because as he came
to it by the Deposition of his Father (though not immediately) who now
lives with him as a private Man, so has he never wanted Competitors. To
his Father he pays a great deal of outward Respect, but is forced to
keep a very watchful Eye over him. After about an Hours Discourse, we
were dismiss'd.
_October_ the 15th. In the Morning, _Assyne_ not being at leisure to
go a Hunting, we proceeded on our Voyage Homewards, with a great deal
of Alacrity; and finding nothing remarkable in our Road, in about 3
Hours and an half arrived at _Seray_. And hence, after a short Repast,
we continued our Journey to _Sherby_ Fountain, which took us up about
the like space of Time. Here we accounted our selves as good as at
Home, being at a Place with which we were well acquainted, and to which
several times in the Year some or other of our Nation usually resort,
either for Antelope or Hog-hunting, according to their Season; nor had
we hence above seven or eight Hours to _Aleppo_.
_October_ the 16th. Getting up pretty early in the Morning, we resolved
to Hunt the greatest part of our Way Home, as we did; and Dining at the
famous _Round-Hill_, whereon has been spent by the _English_ more Money
than would purchase a noble Estate round about it, in the Afternoon we
arrived safe at _Aleppo_.
_Some Account of the Ancient State of the City of _Palmyra_, with
short Remarks upon the Inscriptions found there. By _E. Halley_._
The City of _Tadmor_, whose Remains in Ruins do with so much evidence
demonstrate the once happy Condition thereof, seems very well to
be proved to be the same City which _Solomon_ the great King of
_Israel_ is said to have founded under that Name in the _Desart_,
both in 1 _Kings_ 9. 18. and 2 _Chron._ 8. 16. in the Translation of
which, the _Vulgar Latin Version_, said to be that of St. _Jerom_,
has it, _Condidit Palmyram in Deserto_. And _Josephus_ (in _lib._
8. _Antiq. Jud._ wherein he treats of _Solomon_ and his Acts) tell
us, that he Built a City in the Desart, and called it _Thadamora_;
and the _Syrians_ at this Day (says he) call it by the same Name;
but the _Greeks_ name it _Palmyra_. The Name is therefore Greek, and
consequently has no relation to the Latin _Palma_, and seems rather
derived from Παλμυός or Πάλμυς, which _Hesychius_ Interprets βασιλεὺς
πατὴρ: or perhaps from Παλμύτης, which (according to the same Author)
was an _Egyptian_ God. Neither is the Word תרמר but תמר that in Hebrew
signifies a _Palm-Tree_.
History is silent as to the Fate and Circumstances of this City,
during the great Revolutions in the several Empires of the East; but
it may well be supposed, that so advanced a Garrison as this was,
being above three hundred Miles from _Jerusalem_, continued not long
in the Possession of the _Jews_, who immediately after _Solomon_, fell
into Civil Dissention, and divided their Force: so that it is not to
be doubted, but that it submitted to the _Babylonian_ and _Persian_
Monarchies, and afterwards to the _Macedonians_ under _Alexander_ and
the _Seleucidæ_. But when the _Romans_ got footing into these Parts,
and the _Parthians_ seemed to put a stop to their farther Conquests
in the _East_, then was this City of _Palmyra_, by reason of its
Situation, being a Frontier, and in the midst of a vast Sandy _Desart_,
where Armies could not well subsist to reduce it by Force, courted and
caressed by the contending Princes, and permitted to continue a Free
State, a Mart or Staple for Trade, for the Convenience of both Empires,
as is abundantly made out from the Words of _Appian_ and _Pliny_.
_Appian_ (_lib._ 5. _de Bellis Civil._) tells us, that _M. Antonius_,
after his Victory at _Philippi_, about forty Years before _Christ_,
sent his Horse to Plunder the City of _Palmyra_, pretending only that
they were not sufficiently in the _Roman_ Interest. ὅτι Ρωμαίων καὶ
Παρθυαίων ὄντες ἔφοροι ἐς ἑκατέρας ἐπιδεξίως εἶχον, and that being
Merchants, they conveyed the _Indian_ and _Arabian_ Commodities by
the way of _Persia_ into the _Roman_ Territories; though the true
reason were their Riches: But the _Palmyrenes_ being informed of the
Design, took care to prevent them, and so escaped Plunder: And this
Attempt of _Antony_'s occasioned a Rupture between the two Empires.
The Words of _Pliny_ (_lib._ 5. _Nat. Hist._) above an hundred Years
after, do likewise testifie that this City then continued in the same
Enjoyment of their Liberties. They being very much to the purpose, I
thought fit to Copy them: _Palmyra Urbs nobilis situ, divitiis soli
atque aquis amœnis, vasto undique ambitu arinis includit agros, ac
velut terris exempta à rerum Natura; privata sorte inter duo imperia
summa Romanorum Parthorumque, & prima in discordia semper utrinque
cura_. Whereby it appears not only that it was a Common-wealth in the
time of _Vespasian_; but the situation thereof is truly described, as
it were an Island of fertile Land, surrounded with a Sea of barren
Sands. Such Spots _Strabo_ tells us were frequent in _Lybia_, and by
the _Egyptians_ were called _Abases_; whence possibly the Name of the
_Abassyne_ Nation is derived.
With these Advantages of Freedom, Neutrality and Trade, for near two
Centuries, 'tis not strange that it acquired the State and Wealth
answerable to the Magnificence of these noble Structures. But when
the _Romans_ under _Trajan_ had made it appear, that there was
no comparison between the Puissance of the _Parthians_ and them,
(_Trajan_ having taken _Babylon_ and _Ctesiphon_ the then Seat of
the _Parthian_ Empire,) the _Palmyreni_ were at length determined to
Declare for the _Romans_; which they did, by submitting themselves to
the Emperor _Adrian_, about the Year of Christ 130, when _Adrian_
made his Progress through _Syria_ into _Egypt_. And that Magnificent
Emperor being highly delighted with the native Strength and Situation
of the Place, was pleased to adorn and rebuild it: When, as 'tis
likely, he bestowed on it the Privileges of a Colony _Juris Italici_,
which it enjoyed (as _Ulpian_ assures us.) And the Inhabitants of the
City, in Gratitude, were willing to call themselves _Hadrianopolitæ_,
ἐπικτισθείσης τῆς πόλεως ὑπὸ τοῦ Αὐτοκράτορος (says _Stephanus_.) Nor
is it unlikely that many of those Marble Pillars were the Gift of that
Emperor, and particularly those of the Long _Porticus_; for that none
of the Inscriptions are before that Date. And it was usual for the
_Cæsars_ to present Cities that had obliged them, with Marble Pillars
to adorn their Publick Buildings. These here were not far to fetch, the
Neighbouring Mountains affording _Marble-Quarries_: But the Magnitude
of the _Porphyry_ Columns is indeed very remarkable, considering
how far those vast Stones must have been brought by Land-carriage
to this Place; it being not known that any other Quarries yield it,
except those of _Egypt_, which lie about mid-way between _Cairo_ and
_Siena_, between the _Nile_ and the _Red-Sea_: The Stone being very
valuable for its Colour and Hardness, and so that it rises in Blocks
of any magnitude required; _Quantislibet molibus cædendis sufficiunt
Lapidicinæ_, (_Plin._ _lib._ 36.) And it is a great mistake of those
who suppose it fictitious.
From the time of _Adrian_ to that of _Aurelian_, for about an hundred
and forty Years, this City continued to flourish and encrease in
Wealth and Power, to that degree, that when the Emperor _Valerian_ was
taken Prisoner by _Sapores_ King of _Persia_, _Odænathus_ one of the
Lords of this Town (which Name occurs in several of these Inscriptions)
was able (whilst _Gallienus_ neglected his Duty both to his Father
and Country) to bring a powerful Army into the Field, and to recover
_Mesopotamia_ from the _Persians_, and to penetrate as far as their
Capital City _Ctesiphon_. Thereby rendring so considerable Service to
the _Roman_ State, that _Gallienus_ thought himself obliged to give
him a share in the Empire: Of which Action, _Trebellius Pollio_ (in
the Life of _Gallienus_) has these Words, _Laudatur ejus (Gallieni)
optimum factum, qui, Odenatum participato Imperio Augustum vocavit,
ejusque monetam, qua Persas captos traheret, cudi jussit: quod &
Senatus & Urbs & omnis ætas gratanter accepit_. The same in many
Places speaks of this _Odænathus_ with great Respect; and mentioning
his Death, he says, _Iratum fuisse Deum Reip. credo, qui interfecto
Valeriano noluit Odenatum reservare_. But by a strange reverse of
Fortune, this Honour and Respect to _Odænathus_ occasioned the sudden
Ruin and Subversion of the City. For he and his Son _Herodes_ being
murder'd by _Mæonius_ their Kinsman, and dying with the Title of
_Augustus_, his Wife _Zenobia_, in Right of her Son _Waballathus_ then
a Minor, pretended to take upon her the Government of the East, and
did administer it to admiration: And when soon after _Gallienus_ was
murder'd by his Soldiers, she grasped the Government of _Egypt_, and
held it during the short Reign of the Emperor _Claudius Gothicus_. But
_Aurelian_ coming to the Imperial Dignity, would not suffer the Title
of _Augustus_ in this Family, tho' he was contented that they should
hold under him as _Vice Cæsaris_; as plainly appears by the Latin
Coins of _Aurelian_ on the one side, and _Waballathus_ (which Name is
often found in these Inscriptions) on the other, with these Letters
V. C. R. IM. OR., which _P. Harduin_ has most judiciously interpreted
_Vice Cæsaris Rector Imperii Orientis_, but without the Title of
_Cæsar_ or _Augustus_, and with a Laurel instead of a Diadem. But both
_Waballathus_ and _Zenobia_ are stiled ΣΕΒΑΣΤΟΙ in the _Greek_ Coins,
made, 'tis probable, within their own Jurisdiction. Two of the _Latin_
I have seen, and they are as described, excepting the Points.