I.--INTRODUCTION.

No one disputes the fact that, when our first parents were placed in

the garden of Eden, they wore no clothes. It was not until after they

had acquired the knowledge of good and evil that they turned their

attention to the subject of dress, which is now the engrossing thought

and care of the majority.

There are still to be found amongst the uncivilized races those who

are contented with as small an amount of clothing as satisfied the

first inhabitants of Eden. Yet many of these show that they study

personal appearance quite as much as the most fashionable of Parisian

belles; for they bestow much labour, time, and thought, and endure

much actual suffering in the elaborate patterns with which they

tattoo, and, as they vainly suppose, embellish their faces and

persons. The ancient Britons, who painted themselves in various

devices, also bore witness to the natural craving after personal

adornment, which seems to be inherent in the whole human race.

The particular modes in which this craving exhibits itself seem to

depend upon climate and civilization. Climate prescribes what is

absolutely necessary; civilization, what is decent and becoming. In

some countries it is necessary to protect the body, and especially

the head, from the power of the sun; in others, to guard it against

extreme cold; while many of the savage tribes, inured to the scorching

rays of the sun, almost entirely dispense with clothing, and yet have

certain conceits and vanities which show that personal appearance is

not disregarded. The most hostile intentions have been averted,

and imminent peril escaped, by the timely present of a few rows of

bright-coloured beads, or a small piece of looking-glass; and the

most trumpery European gewgaws have elicited more admiration, afforded

greater pleasure, and effected more goodwill, than the most costly

treasures could purchase among civilized nations. A love of finery

seems to belong to human nature. There is an attraction in bright

and showy colours which the uncivilized cannot resist, and which is

equally powerful among those who are civilized, though education and

other causes may qualify it.

When we hear persons loudly declaiming against dress as a needless

waste of time and money--when we hear them sighing for the return of

the good old times when it was not so much considered, we are tempted

to inquire at what period in the history of the world those times

occurred; for we cannot learn that it was, at any time, considered

to be an unimportant item of expenditure or thought. We do not by any

means affirm that it may not occupy too much care; that there may

not be instances in which it is suffered to engross the mind to the

detriment of other things more worthy of consideration; that it may

not lead to frivolity and extravagance. All this may be, and no doubt

often is, true. It is quite possible, and more than probable. But we

also maintain that it is a great mistake to come down upon it with

a sweeping denunciation, and, in Quaker fashion, avow it to be all

vanity, and assert that it must be trodden out of thought and eye.

Even the Quakers themselves, who affect such supercilious contempt for

dress, are very particular about the cut of their headgear, about the

shade of their greys and their drabs and their browns, and, in their

scrupulous neatness, show that they think as much of a grease-spot or

a stain as many a damsel does of the ribbon in her cap or the set of

her collar and cuffs. So that, after all, whatever professions people

may make, human nature and human wants are always the same.

It by no means follows that a person who is well dressed thinks a

great deal about it, or devotes much time to it. To some persons it

comes quite naturally. They look well in whatever they wear; and the

probability is that it occupies less of their time and thoughts

than many who arrive, with infinite more labour and pains, at a less

pleasing result.

In submitting this manual to the public, we do not presume to do more

than offer such suggestions as may promote a better style of dress,

consistent with a due regard to economy. No doubt many of our

suggestions will have occurred to some of our readers, and it may seem

almost needless to have made them, but we know by experience in other

things that maxims are often forgotten and laid aside till something

occurs to revive them.

It is easy enough for the rich to be in harmony with the prevailing

fashion. They have but to open their purse-strings, and pay for any

of those freaks of fancy which are called fashion. To combine a good

style with economy requires judgment and contrivance, or, what is

generally called, management.

There are certain points which may be considered as fundamental,

without which the most rigid attention to matters of dress will go

for nothing. For instance, cleanliness, which according to the old

proverb, is rated so high as to be placed next to godliness, is one

of these, and of primary importance. The most costly attire, if

unaccompanied by it, is not only valueless, but may become a positive

disfigurement, while the simplest dress, combined with cleanliness,

may be absolutely refreshing. There is no reason whatever why the

most menial occupation should be admitted as any excuse for want

of personal cleanliness. It is always easy to distinguish between

accidental dirt which cannot always be avoided, and that which is

habitual.

When it is considered that the object of nine-tenths of womankind is

that they may marry and settle in life, as their fathers and mothers

have done before them, it is very natural that they should endeavour

to make themselves as captivating as they can; only let them all bear

this in mind,--let their rank and station be what it may,--that no man

is caught by the mere display of fine clothes. A pretty face, or good

figure, may captivate; but fine clothes, never. Though it is said

that fine feathers make fine birds, yet no mail will be caught by a

trimming or a flounce.

To what end then should attention be given to dress? Why should it be

made of so much consequence as to write a manual upon it? Because

it is one of beauty's accessories; because as dress of some kind is

absolutely necessary and indispensable, it is better that people of

all classes should dress well rather than ill, and that, when it is

done, it should be done sensibly and reasonably; without carelessness

on the one hand, and without extravagance on the other. When we may,

why should we not choose the best and most becoming? Why are we to

mortify ourselves and annoy our friends by choosing something because

it is especially hideous? No law, human or divine, enjoins us to

disfigure ourselves.

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