CHAPTER X

IN THE WAKE OF THE "GRIFFIN"

In the lower St. Lawrence Valley, among the French Canadians, where France

is best remembered and where the shut-in life is not disturbed by current

events or changing conventions or evanescent fashions, I am told there are

traces in their language of the sea life of their ancestors on the coasts

of Brittany and Normandy. When, for example, a neighbor approaches a

farmhouse on horseback he is asked not to "alight" or to "dismount" but to

"disembark," and he is invited not to "tie" his horse but to "moor" it. It

is as if they were still crying ever in their unconscious memories,

"Thalassa, Thalassa"; as if the very shells of speech still carried the

roar of the ocean which they who hold them to their ears have never seen.

If the language of the upper valley of the St. Lawrence and of the valley

of the Mississippi remembered as distinctly its origin we should

everywhere hear the plash of the oar in all the hospitality of their

settlements. But all such traces have disappeared, or all but disappeared,

in the Mississippi Valley. The only one that comes to me now, as possibly

of the old French days, is one which is preserved in an adage not at all

French but quite characteristic of the independent life that has occupied

the banks of all the rivers: "Paddle your own canoe." Yet even in the

space of one or two generations of agricultural life that, too, is

disappearing, supplanted by a synonymous phrase, borrowed of fields that

have entirely forgotten the primitive days, when men travelled only by

water and lived near the streams: "Hoe your own row."

The first sound of the overmountain migration of which I spoke above was

of the stealthy step of the hunter, yet back of that for a century was the

scarcely audible plash of the paddle and the answering swirl of the water.

But as in overmountain migration the noisy wheel soon followed the foot,

so in the other the noiseless sail followed the swishing paddle.

The city of Paris bears a sailing ship upon her shield, though she sits a

hundred miles or more from the sea. Whatever the significance of that

symbol has been to the people of France, it has a peculiar appropriateness

(probably never realized before) in the fact that the iron, cordage, and

anchors for the first vessel which sailed upon the inland waters of the

new world were carried out from France to the first shipyard, beyond the

mountains, in the midst of the forest, above the mighty Falls of Niagara.

Jason of Thessaly, sailing for the Golden Fleece in Colchis, and braving

the fiery breath of the dragon, did not undertake a more perilous or more

difficult labor than he who bore from the banks of the Seine the equipment

of a vessel in which to bring back to France, as he hoped, the fleece of

the forest and the plain.

We are accustomed to call those who crossed the plains and the Rocky

Mountains for the gold-fields of California nearly two centuries later (in

1849) the Argonautae; but the first American Argonauts went from France,

and they built their _Argo_ on what is now Lake Erie, on the edge of the

Field of the Bulls, near a place, grown into a beautiful city, which now

bears the very name of the wild bull, the "buffalo," and within sound of

the roaring of the dragon that had frightened all earlier explorers. So

accurately do the details of the story of Jason's adventure become

realities to-day! Champlain and others had heard only at a distance the

thunder of the great cataract that was some day to become not only as

docile as the dragon under Jason's taming but as useful as a million

harnessed bulls.

La Salle gathered his ship-carpenters and his ship furniture between his

journeys to Rouen (the place of his birth) and elsewhere for the means of

purchase. But before the winter had come in Normandy his messengers were

out amid the snows and naked forests of Canadian winters in continuance of

that voyage toward the western Colchis.

In the autumn of 1678 a Franciscan friar, Hennepin, set out with two

canoemen, the first solitary figures of the expedition--a gray priest from

the gray Rock of Quebec, in a birch canoe, carrying with him the

"furniture of a portable altar"--a priest who professed a zeal for souls,

but who admitted a passion for travel and a burning desire to visit

strange lands. He relates of himself that, being sent from a convent in

Artois to Calais at the season of herring fishing, he made friends of the

sailors and never tired of their stories. "Often," he says, "I hid myself

behind tavern doors while the sailors were telling of their voyages. The

tobacco smoke made me very sick at the stomach, but nevertheless I

listened attentively.... I could have passed whole days and nights in this

way without eating." [Footnote: Parkman, "La Salle," p. 133. Hennepin, "A

New Discovery of a Large Country in America," ed. Thwaites, 1:30.]

Along the way up the St. Lawrence he stopped to minister to the habitants

--too few and too poor to support a priest--saying mass, exhorting, and

baptizing. Early in November he arrived at the mission of Fort Frontenac,

which he had two or three years before helped to establish in the wilds.

Soon La Salle's lieutenants, La Motte and Tonty, appeared with most of the

men, and while some were despatched in canoes to Lake Michigan to gather

the buffalo-hides and beaver-skins against the coming of the ship, whose

keel had not yet been laid, the rest (La Motte, Hennepin, and sixteen men)

embarked for the Niagara River, by which the upper lakes empty into Lake

Ontario and the St. Lawrence. After a tempestuous voyage up and across the

lake they reached this river, whose torrent fury, gathered of "four inland

oceans," stopped even the canoes. Then, led of the priest, they toiled up

the cliffs called the "Three Mountains," because, I suppose, of the three

terraces. (Having climbed up the face of the cliffs in winter, with a

heavy camera for my portable altar, and having broken the great icicles

formed by the trickling stream over one of the terraces, in order to make

my way across a narrow ledge to the top of the precipice, I am able to

know what the journey must have meant to those first European travellers.)

Once upon the upper plateau, they marched through the wintry forest and at

length, in "solitude unprofaned as yet by the pettiness of man," they

beheld the "imperial cataract"--the "thunder of water," as the Indians

called it--or, as Hennepin described it, that "vast and prodigious cadence

of water which falls down after a surprising and most astonishing manner,

insomuch that the universe does not afford its parallel, those of Italy

and Switzerland being but sorry patterns." To this priest, Hennepin, we

owe the first description and picture of Niagara, [Footnote: "Four leagues

from Lake Frontenac there is an incredible Cataract or Waterfall, which

has no equal. The Niagara river near this place is only the eighth of a

league wide, but it is very deep in places, and so rapid above the great

fall that it hurries down all the animals which try to cross it, without a

single one being able to withstand its current. They plunge down a height

of more than five hundred feet, and its fall is composed of two sheets of

water and a cascade, with an island sloping down. In the middle these

waters foam and boil in a fearful manner. They thunder continually, and

when the wind blows in a southerly direction the noise which they make is

heard for more than fifteen leagues. Four leagues from this cataract, or

fall, the Niagara river rushes with extraordinary rapidity especially for

two leagues into Lake Frontenac."--Hennepin, "Description of Louisiana,"

pp. 71-73.] probably now more familiar to the world than any other natural

feature of this continent. He has somewhat magnified the height of these

falls, making it five hundred feet in the edition of 1683, and raising it

to six hundred in 1697; but they are impressive enough to acquit him of

intentional falsification and powerful enough to run virtually all the

manufacturing plants in the United States, if they could be gathered

within its easy reach.

As it is, less than 9 per cent of the water that overflows from the four

upper Great Lakes into the lower lake, once known as Lake Frontenac and

now as Ontario, is diverted for utilitarian purposes; it supplies the

Americans and the Canadians almost equally between the two shores five

hundred thousand horse-power. [Footnote: "Under a treaty between the

United States and the British Government only about 25 per cent of the

theoretical horsepower of Niagara Falls can be developed. The estimate of

the minimum amount of power that can be developed on the Niagara River

above and including the Falls is 5,800,000 h.p., and the assumed maximum

is 6,500,000 h.p. The treaty, therefore, limits present possible minimum

development on both sides of the Falls to 1,450,000 h.p. Under the treaty

only five-fourteenths of the power made available thereby belongs to the

United States, its share being reduced by the diversion of water from Lake

Michigan into the Drainage Canal at Chicago. There is thus left at Niagara

Falls only about 518,000 h.p. that can at present be developed on the

American side." About one-half of this total is now developed.--United

States Commissioner of Corporations. Report on water-power development in

the United States. 1912.]

What the conversion of the strength of this Titan (for ages entirely

wasted and for a century after Hennepin only a scenic wonder) means, or

may mean, to industry in the future is intimated in some statistics,

furnished by a recent writer on the Great Lakes, showing the relative cost

per month of a certain unit of power in a number of representative

American cities. [Footnote: "Assuming the maximum power used to be one

hundred horse-power, the number of working hours a day to be ten, and the

'load factor,' or average power actually used, to be seventy-five per cent

of the total one hundred, the cost per month in the cities named is as

[above]."--Curwood, "The Great Lakes," p. 135.]

Boston $937.50

Philadelphia 839.25

New York 699.37

Chicago 629.43

Cleveland 559.50

Pittsburgh 419.62

Buffalo 184.91

Niagara Falls 144.17

These figures are more significant as one contemplates the diminishing

supply of coal in coming centuries, if not decades. According to the

estimate of a reliable authority the available and accessible coal supply

of the United States will be exhausted at the present rate of exploitation

by the year 2027, and the entire supply by the year 2050.

Such statistics intimate the advantage possessed, perhaps beyond any other

site in America, by the strip of shore on which La Salle's men, from the

banks of the Seine, and Hennepin, the priest from Calais, that December

night in 1678 encamped, building their bivouac fires amid the snows, three

miles above the falls--and so opening to the view of the world a natural

source of power and wealth more valuable than extensive coal-fields or

rich mines of gold or silver.

It was but a great waterfall to La Salle and Tonty and Hennepin--an

impeding, noisy, hostile object. And to the half-mutinous, quarrelsome

workmen (French, Flemings, Italians) it was a demon, no doubt, whose very

breath froze their beards into icicles. It was, in reality, potentially

the most beneficent single, incarnate force bounded by any one horizon of

sky, in that new world, developed by the tipping of the continent a little

to the eastward after the upper lakes had been formed and the consequent

emptying of their waters into the St. Lawrence instead of the Gulf of

Mexico.

In January, 1679, a file of burdened men, some thirty in number, toiling

slowly on their way over the snowy plains and "through the gloomy forests

of spruce and naked oak trees," the priest accompanying with his altar

lashed to his back, reached a favorable spot beside calm water several

miles above the cataract: the site is identified as situate a little way

above the mouth of Cayuga Creek, just outside the village of La Salle, in

the State of New York. There is a stone erected by the local historical

society to mark the spot. When I saw the bronze tablet the inscription was

almost illegible, covered, as it was, with ice and the snow that was at

that very hour falling upon it.

There, began the felling and hewing of trees that were to touch the

farther shores of Michigan. The supplies brought out from Paris had been

lost by the wreck of La Salle's smaller vessel on the way up Ontario, but

enough was saved, or brought by La Salle on his return from Fort

Frontenac, to give this sixty-ton vessel full equipment, for in the spring

she was launched. The "friar pronounced his blessing on her; the assembled

company sang _Te Deum_; cannon were fired; and French and Indians ...

shouted and yelped in chorus as she glided into Niagara." She carried five

cannon and on her prow was carved such a "portentous monster" as doubtless

is to be found among the grotesques of Notre Dame--a griffin (that is, a

beast with the body of a lion and the head, beak, and pinions of a bird),

in honor of the armorial bearings of Count Frontenac.

Through spring and half the summer the vessel lay moored beyond reach of

the Indians but near enough so that Hennepin "could preach on Sundays from

the deck to the men encamped along the bank." When La Salle, who had been

obliged by disasters to go back to Fort Frontenac during the building of

the ship, again appeared above the falls in midsummer, the _Griffin_ was

warped up into the placid lake, and on the 7th of August anchor was lifted

and the fateful voyage was begun.

There was (as when the _Argo_, the "first bold vessel, dared the seas") no

Orpheus standing "high on the stern" and "raising his entrancing strain."

Nor did a throng of proud Thessalians or of "transported demi-gods" stand

round to cheer them off. The naked Indians, their hands over their mouths

in wonderment or shouting, "Gannorom! Gannorom!" alone saw the great boat

move out over the waters without oar or paddle or towing rope. For music

there was only the _Te Deum_ again, sung by raw, unpractised voices, such

as one might hear among the boatmen of the Seine. It was not such music,

at any rate, as that of Orpheus, to make plain men grow "heroes at the

sound." Doubtless no one felt himself a hero. The only intimation of any

consciousness of a high mission comes from Hennepin, who, when the

_Griffin_, some days later, was ploughing peacefully through the straits

that led to the Mer Douce--"verdant prairies, dotted with groves and

bordered with lofty forests" on either side, "herds of deer and flocks of

swans and wild turkeys" within sight, and the "bulwarks plentifully hung

with game"--wrote: "Those who will one day have the happiness to possess

this fertile and pleasant strait, will be very much obliged to those who

have shown them the way."

"Very much obliged"? No, Hennepin! Of the hundreds of thousands who now

pass through or across those straits every year, or of those thousands who

possess its shores, not a hundred, I venture to say, remember "those who

showed the way"! They have even forgotten "that the first European voice

that Niagara ever heard was French"! Ste. Claire!--the name you gave to

the beautiful strait beyond the "Symplegades" of your voyage, in gratitude

and in honor of the day on which your company reached it--has become

masculine in tribute to an American general. If your later praying to that

patron of seamen, St. Anthony of Padua, had not availed to save you from

the peril of the storm and you had gone to death in unsalted water, you

could hardly have been more completely forgotten. One has spoken now and

then lightly of the vow made by your commander, La Salle, to build a

grateful chapel to St. Anthony if your lives were saved during that storm,

forgetting that so long as the Mississippi runs to the sea there will be a

chapel to St. Anthony (St. Anthony's Falls) in which gratitude will be

continually chanted through ages for the preservation of the ship and its

crew to find haven in quiet waters behind Point St. Ignace.

It was there, at St. Ignace that we have seen La Salle, in scarlet,

kneeling before the altar, where Marquette's bones were doubtless by that

time gathered by his devoted savage followers, and it was thence that they

passed on to an island in Green Bay, the goal of their journey.

From that far port the first cargo carried of sails was sent out, bound

for the shore on which the _Griffin's_ timbers had been hewn. That it

never reached harbor of that calm shelter, or any other, we know; but that

loss, once the path was traced in the waters, is hardly of consequence

save as it helped further to illustrate the indomitable spirit of La Salle

and his companions.

What good came to Thessaly or Greece of the yellow peltry that Jason

brought back is not even kept in myth or fable. The mere adventure was the

all. They did not even think of its worth. The goatskin was valueless

except as a proof or token, and the boat _Argo_, though the greatest ship

known to the early myths of Greece, and though dedicated, we are told, to

Neptune at the end of the voyage, became the pioneer of no such mighty

fleet as did the _Griffin_. The list of the Greek ships and commanders in

the Iliad offers but a pygmy analogy. And if you were to go to Buffalo to-

day, near the site of that first shipyard (a little farther away from the

falls), you would know that the successors of La Salle in new _Griffins_

had actually brought back the golden fleece--the priceless fleece, the

fleece of the plains if not of the forests. Day after day its gold is hung

against the sky as the grain is lifted from the ships into elevators which

can store at one time twenty-three million bushels of wheat.

The coasts of the lakes up which the _Griffin_ led the oarless way are

three thousand three hundred and eighty-five miles in length, or,

including those of the lower lake, Frontenac, which was also first touched

of French keels, over four thousand miles. The statistics of the traffic

which has grown in the furrow of that wind-drawn plough would be fatiguing

if they did not carry you to heights of a wider and more exhilarating

view.

We have occupied and apportioned the billion acres of French domain among

sixty million people. Here is an added domain in which no landmarks can be

set--which belongs to all men.

These are a few graphic facts gathered from recent reports and books about

the Great Lakes: [Footnote: Edward Charming and M. F. Lansing, "The Story

of the Great Lakes." Macmillan, New York, 1909. James O. Curwood, "The

Great Lakes." Putnam, New York, 1909. James C. Mills, "Our Inland Seas."

McClurg, Chicago, 1910.]

Nearly as many people live in States that have ports upon those shores as

in France to-day--between thirty-five and forty millions.

The lakes have a tonnage equal to one-third of the total tonnage of North

America. [Footnote: Curwood, "The Great Lakes," p. 4. "In 1913 the total

tonnage of the Great Lakes was 2,940,000 tons, of the United States

7,887,000 tons."--Report United States Commission of Navigation.]

They have made possible a saving in cost of transportation (and so of

production) of several hundred million dollars in a single year.

[Footnote: Curwood, "The Great Lakes," p. 4.]

Only ninety million dollars have been spent by the government for their

improvement in the whole history of their occupation, above Niagara Falls,

[Footnote: Curwood, "The Great Lakes," p. 9.] while France in that time

has spent for harbors and waterways alone seven hundred and fifty million

dollars.[Footnote: "Four hundred and fifty million dollars of this total

has been for the improvement and maintenance of the waterways."--Report of

National Waterways Commission, p. 507.] They have been privately

developed.

Six times as much freight passes over these lakes as through the Suez

Canal in a year. [Footnote: Curwood, "The Great Lakes," p. 6.]

Three thousand five hundred vessels, and more than twenty-five thousand

men are required to move the hundred million tons of freight which every

year would fill a train encircling the globe. [Footnote: Curwood, "The

Great Lakes," pp. 25, 26, and Report of United States Commission of

Navigation, 1913.]

If one were to stand on the shore of that "charming strait," between Erie

and Huron, the Detroit River (which Hennepin so covetously describes,

wishing to make settlement there, until La Salle reminded him of his

"professed passion for exploring a new country"), one would now see a

vessel passing one way or the other every twelve minutes, on the average,

day and night during the eight months of open navigation.

Nor are they small sailing vessels of a few tons' burden, but great

sailless, steam-propelled hulks, carrying from five to ten thousand tons.

So it is no fleet of graceful galleons--half bird, half lion, as the

_Griffin_ was--that have followed in her wake up what Hennepin called "the

vast and unknown seas of which even the savages knew not the end." They

have, in the evolution of nautical zoology, lost beak, wings, and

feathers, and now like a shoal of wet lions, tawny and black, their

powerful heads and long steel backs just visible above the blue water,

they course the western Mediterranean from spring to winter. [Footnote: It

is an intruding and probably whimsical, but fascinating, thought that the

wings of the griffin have become evolved into the air-ships which first

began successfully to fly, in America, near the shores of the lake on

which the Griffin itself was hatched. The Wright brothers were born near

one of those lakes. It is not a far-fetched or labored thought which

pictures that simple, rough-made galleon--very like the model of the ship

on the shield of Paris--as leading two broods across the valley above the

Falls, one of lions that cannot fly and one of sea-birds, hydroplanes,

whose paths are the air, but whose resting-places are the calm water; the

brood of the sea and the brood of the sky, hatched from one nest at the

water's edge.]

The ships of the lion brood are, some of them, five or six hundred feet in

length, and carry eleven thousand tons of cargo. I have seen the skeleton

of one of these iron-boned beasts, and I have been told that eight hundred

thousand rivets go into its creation. And upon hearing this I could not

but hear the deafening clamor caused by La Salle's driving the first nail

or bolt, Father Hennepin declining the honor because of the "modesty of

[his] religious profession."

As to the cargoes that these ships bring back, the story is even more

marvellous. First in quantity is iron ore, forty-seven million four

hundred and thirty-five thousand seven hundred and seventy-one tons in

1912 [Footnote: "Mineral Industry," 21:455.] from the shores of Superior,

where Joliet had made search for copper mines, where Father Allouez--in

the midst of reports of baptisms and masses--tells of nuggets and rocks of

the precious metal, and where has grown up in a few years the "second

greatest freight-shipping port on earth"--a port that bears the name of

that famous French coureur de bois, Du Lhut. Forty-seven millions of tons,

and there are still a billion and a half in sight on those shores, which

have already given to the ships hundreds of millions of their dark

treasure.

After the ore, lumber, one billion one hundred and sixty-five million feet

[Footnote: Monthly Summary of Internal Commerce of the United States,

December, 1911.] in one year (1911); a waning amount from the vanishing

forests that once completely encircled these lakes. Alexander Pope, whose

"Ode on St. Cecilia's Day" I have quoted (and would there were a Homer,

Pope, or Kipling to sing this true legend), speaks of _Argo_ seeing "her

kindred trees descend from Pelion to the Main"--from the mountain to the

sea, where Jason's boat was launched. So, with the departure of the

_Griffin_ from her Green Bay Island, might a prophetic poet have seen her

masts beckoning all the kindred trees to the water, in which one hundred

and sixty billion feet of pine have descended from the forests of Michigan

alone, [Footnote: Curwood, "The Great Lakes," p. 57.] and that is but one

of the circling States. And there is this singular fact to be added, that

nearly a third of the annual cargo goes to the "Tonawandas," [Footnote:

Curwood, "The Great Lakes," p. 54.] the "greatest lumber towns" in the

world that have grown up practically on the very site of the shipyard at

the mouth of Cayuga Creek, a little way above the falls.

And after the ore and lumber, grain--the fleece of the fields, immensely

more valuable than that of the forests; one hundred and fifty million

bushels in one year and eleven million barrels of flour--a fortnight's

bread supply for the entire world. [Footnote: Curwood, "The Great Lakes,"

p. 49.]

And after ore and lumber and grain, fuel and other bulky necessities of

life.

The casual relation between the pioneer building and journey of the

_Griffin_ and these statistics cannot, of course, be established, but what

no inspired human prophecy could have divined, or even the wildest

dreaming of La Salle have imagined, is as sequential as the history that

has been made to trace all new-world development in the wake of the

caravels of Columbus. The storms of nature and the jealousies in human

breasts thwarted La Salle's immediate ambitions, but what has come into

that northern valley has followed closely in the path of his purposes, the

path traced by his ship built of the trees of Niagara and furnished by the

chandleries of Paris.

The mystery of the vanishing of this pioneer vessel only enhances the

glory of its venture and service--as its loss but gave new foil to the

hardihood of La Salle and Tonty. We can imagine the golden-brown skins

scattered over the blue waters as the bits of the body of the son of the

king of Colchis strewn by Medea to detain the pursuers of the Argonauts.

It was the first sacrifice to the valley for the fleece. In the depths of

these Lakes or on their shores were buried the bones of these French

mariners who, first of Europeans, trusted themselves to sails and west

winds on those uncharted seas.

But this is not the all of the tragic story. The _Griffin_ carried in her

the prophecies of other than lake vessels. She had in her hold on that

fateful trip the cordage and iron for the pioneer of the river ships. So

when she went down she spoke to the waters that engulfed her the two

dreams of her builder and commander: one dream the navigation of the lakes

and the other the coursing of the western rivers.

The Spanish council which decreed long ago that "if it had pleased God

that ... rivers should have been navigable, He would not have wanted human

assistance to make them such" would be horrified by the sacrilege that has

been committed and is being contemplated by the followers of the men of

the _Griffin_.

They have made a canal around the Falls (which Hennepin first saw

breathing a cloud of mist over the great abyss)--a canal that,

supplemented by other canals along the St. Lawrence River, allows vessels

of fourteen-foot draught to go from Lake Erie to Montreal and so on to the

sea. If this achievement were put into the poetry of legend it would show

the outwitting of the dragon.

They have deepened the straits where the _Griffin_ had to wait for

favorable breezes and soundings to pass from Erie to Huron--the

Symplegades (clashing rocks) of the new-world voyage.

They have made canals on either side of the Sault Ste. Marie--the rapids

of the St. Mary's River, by the side of which St. Lusson took formal

possession of all that northern empire and Father Allouez made his

extraordinary address--canals through which sixty-two million tons passed

in 1910 toward the east and south.

They have made and deepened harbors all the way around the shores till

ships two hundred times the size of the _Griffin_ can ride in them.

Yet this is not all. The symbols of La Salle's vision revived in the lakes

memories of the days when their waters ran through the Mississippi Valley

to the gulf--the very course which La Salle's unborn _Griffin_ was to

take.

When the continent tilted a little to the east and in the tilting poured

the water of the upper lakes over the Niagara edge into the St. Lawrence,

that same tilting stopped the overflow down into the Mississippi and the

Gulf of Mexico at the other end of the lakes. But so slight was the

tilting that the water still sweeps over, in places, when the lakes are

high, and sometimes even carries light boats across.

Of late engineers have, in effect, been undoing with levels and scoops and

dredges what nature did in a mighty upheaval. They are practically tipping

the bowls back the other way and so making currents to run down the old

channel toward the gulf through the valleys of the Des Plaines and the

Illinois to the Mississippi.

And so that dream which the dying _Griffin_ spoke to the lake, and the

lake to the rivers in the time of flood--when intercommunication was

possible--is to be realized, except that steam or electricity will take

the place of winds, and screws of sails. [Footnote: Herbert Quick,

"American Inland Waterways," New York, 1909.]

Meanwhile a great battle of the lakes is waging--a battle of levels, it

might better be called, between those, on the one side, who wish to

maintain the grandeur of Niagara much as it was when Hennepin first

pictured it, and with them those who for utilitarian reasons do not wish

its thunderous volume diminished, except, perhaps, for their local uses,

and those also who fear disaster to their harbors and canals all around

the lakes, deepened at great expense, if water is led away toward the

Mississippi; and, on the other side, the public health of millions at the

western end of the lakes and the commercial hopes of other millions in the

Mississippi Valley waiting for the _Griffins_ of the lakes to come with

more generous prices for their produce and bring to their doors what the

rest of the world has now to send to them by the more expensive railroad.

Some day, perhaps, the great upper lake, Superior, will be made a

reservoir where enough water will be impounded in wet seasons for a steady

and more generous supply during the dry seasons; in which event there will

be water enough to keep Niagara in perennial beauty and power, to fill all

the present and prospective harbors and canals to their desired depths and

float even larger fleets of _Griffins_, and, at the same time, have enough

left to make the Mississippi, as the Frenchman who first saw it visualized

it, and as President Roosevelt, two centuries later, expressed it, "a loop

of the sea." [Footnote: Herbert Quick, "American Inland Waterways," New

York, 1909.]

But another amicable battle is on--a battle of the eastern levels--between

the men of the old French valley to the north (_i.e._, the St. Lawrence)

and the men of the old Iroquois valleys to the south, of the Mohawk and

the Hudson. In 1830 a canal was built by the latter from above the Falls

to the navigable Hudson, and with high ceremony a cask of the water of

Lake Erie was emptied into New York harbor as symbol of the wedding of

lake and ocean. Then Canada built her Welland Canal around Niagara and

made canals along the St. Lawrence and channels in the St. Lawrence past

the Lachine Rapids to Montreal, and even made the way from there to the

sea deeper that the growing ocean vessels might come to old Hochelaga. Now

New York has begun deepening the old and almost useless Erie Canal from

seven and nine feet to twelve feet, and to take barges one hundred and

fifty feet long and twenty-five feet beam, with a draught of ten feet, and

Canada is contemplating still deeper channels that will let the ocean

steamers into every port of the Great Lakes. She is even thinking of a

canal that will follow the path of Champlain, up the Ottawa and across the

old portage to Lake Nipissing and thence by the French River into Lake

Huron; and of an alternative course by another of Champlain's paths, from

Ontario across to Huron by way of Lake Simcoe and the Trent River, in

either route avoiding Niagara altogether, paths that would shorten the

water distance by hundreds of miles and bring Europe almost as near to the

shores where Le Caron ministered to the Hurons as to New York City.

It is a rivalry between the old Champlain paths and the La Salle paths,

with just an intimation from those who look far into the future that a new

water path still farther north--of which Radisson gave some premonition--

may carry the wheat of the far northwest from Winnipeg beyond Superior and

beyond the courses of the Mississippi up to Hudson Bay and across the

ocean to European ports, brought a thousand miles nearer.

This is but the merest intimation of the prophetic service of the water

pioneers. And when the prophecy of these pioneers, as interpreted in terms

of steam and locks and dams unknown to them, is fulfilled, it is not

beyond thinking that a captain of a seagoing vessel of ten or twenty

thousand tons from Havre or Cherbourg may some day be calling in deep

voice (as last summer in a room on the twenty-ninth floor of a Chicago

"sky-scraper" I heard a local descendant of the _Griffin_ screeching) for

the lifting of the bridges that will open the way to the Mississippi, the

heart of America.

The French in the Heart of America · 第 10 / 19 章