The picturesque ruins of this venerable structure stand in a lovely and
sequestered valley, about two miles from Llangollen, and are approached
by as delightful and inviting road as ever rambler need wish to tread.
The Rev. John Williams, in his learned description of this ancient
monastery, says:
"The abbey was founded about the year 1200, {58a} and in conformity
with the rule {58b} of the Cistercian fraternity, was dedicated to
the Blessed Virgin Mary. The names by which it was generally known
to the Welsh had, however, a particular reference to the locality
where it was situated: thus, 'Monachlog y Glyn,' 'Monachlog Glyn
Egwestl,' 'Monachlog Pant y Groes.' And in Latin it was called
'Abbatia {58c} de Valle Crucis,' and 'Abbatia de Llanegwest.'
"The remains of the abbey extant at the present day consist of the
church, and of a building on the southern side, part of which seems
to have formed the Abbot's lodgings, and part to have been the
refectory, with the dormitory above. The church is a cruciform
building, of which the northern side has been almost entirely
destroyed, and without any vestige remaining of its roof, except in
the eastern aisle of the southern transept. In the midst of these
hallowed precincts the rubbish is heaped up to a great height,
caused, probably, by the fall of the northern wall, and by the
remains of the roof:--the pavement, if there be any of it subsisting,
is entirely concealed, and ash-trees grow luxuriantly upon the
mounds, adding to the picturesque effect of the ruin, but saddening
the heart of the antiquary. We are unable, therefore, to determine
the number of piers that formed the side of the nave; but from the
space between the western end and the central piers, at the
intersection of the transepts, we should conjecture this number to
have been three, thus making four arches on either side. The choir
was without aisles, but each transept had one on the eastern side,
which seems to have been used as a chapel. The oldest portion of the
church is the choir; the eastern end of which was lighted by three
bold and lofty lancet arches, rising from no great height above the
level of the pavement to half the altitude of the building, and by
two proportionably smaller lancets above. In the apex of the gable
was probably a small aperture, but of this no trace remains; the
gable is mutilated, and we judge only from the analogy of the western
end of the nave. In each of the northern and southern walls of the
choir is a lancet window; and two similar windows, but lower in
height, occur in each of the eastern walls of the transept aisles.
High up in the southern wall, also, is to be seen a small loophole,
communicating with a passage which leads over the vaulting of the
southern transept aisle to the abbatial building adjoining the
church. This passage is now blocked up, but it is conjectured to
have served either as a closet wherein the abbot could attend service
privately, or else as a place of confinement or penitence for the
monks. The architecture of this portion of the church corresponds in
its style with the date of the foundation,--the commencement of the
thirteenth century: the lancets, with their mouldings, are strictly
of that date, and the capitals of the shafts, which are worked with
great boldness, are of the late Norman period, rather than of that
which is called Early-pointed."
"Of all that portion of the nave which occurs between the central
tower and the western end, nothing remains but the outer wall of the
southern aisle; the western end of it, however, still stands, and is
a beautiful example of the richest and purest architecture of the
middle of the thirteenth century. Over a central doorway, with
deeply recessed mouldings and shafts, and with a bold dog-tooth
ornament, each projection of which is elegantly carved into four
converging fleurs-de-lys, occur three lofty windows, the central one
taller than those at its sides--all with remarkably bold splays, both
internally and externally, enriched with shafts and mouldings. The
central window appears to have been of only one light, though broad,
and to have had its arch occupied by a foliation of six cusps, and
therefore of seven recesses,--the foliating spaces being solid. The
side windows are each of two lights, the principal arch-head being
solid, but pierced with a single aperture divided into six
foliations. Above these three windows runs a kind of framework,
analagous in some respects to that at the eastern end of the choir.
The gable is pierced above these windows with a small but beautiful
wheel-window of eight pointed compartments, each trifoliated; the
divisions being moulded in one order, and converging to a central
ring, itself pierced to admit the light. Above all is a square
quatrefoliated aperture in the very apex of the gable. On the
external face of the western end are two bold buttresses of a single
stage, that on the south-eastern side being pierced with loopholes
for a circular staircase formed in the thickness of itself and the
wall."
The Abbey of Valle Crucis was dissolved in the year 1535, and is said to
have been the first of the Welsh monasteries which underwent the doom of
abolition.
Romantic Abbey! hallow'd be the rest
Of those, who rear'd thee in this wild green vale
A temple lovely as the place is blest--
And stern as beautiful:--but words would fail
To paint thy ruin'd glories, though the gale
Of desolation sweeps thro' thy hoar pile,
And waves the long grass thro' thy cloisters pale
Where the dark ivy scorns day's garish smile,
And weed-grown fragments crown thy desecrated aisle.
* * * *
How sweet the sounds!--whose soft enchantments rose
'Mid those wild woodlands at the matin prime--
Or when the vesper song at evening's close
Wafted the soul beyond the cares of time,
To that Elysium of a brighter clime
Where thro' heaven's portals golden vistas gleam,
And the high harps of Seraphim sublime
Came o'er the spirit like a prophet's dream,
Till faded earth away on glory's endless beam.
Oft the proud feudal chief, whom human law
Or kingly pow'r could bind not, nor control,
Has paus'd before thy gates in holy awe,
And felt religion's charm subdue his soul--
The heart that joy'd to hear the savage howl
Of battle on the breeze, has soften'd been--
List'ning the hymns of peace that sweetly stole
O'er this lone vale, where fancy's eye hath seen
Forms bright and angel-like glide thro' thy vistas green:
And angel forms here at thy altar knelt,
Fair dames, and gentle maidens whose bright eyes
The sternest heart of warrior-mould could melt,
Soft'ning grim war with gen'rous sympathy--
Pleading, like pity wafted from the skies
To quell the stormy rage of savage man:
And hence the gentle manners had their rise--
Hence knights for lady's praise all dangers ran--
And thus, the glorious age of chivalry began.
The Abbey derives its name (the Vale of the Cross) from a sepulchral
monument commonly called "THE PILLAR OF ELISEG," which stands on an
ancient tumulus in the middle of this beautifully secluded glen. It was
erected by Cyngen ab Cadell Dryrnllug, in memory of his great grandfather
Eliseg, whose son Brochmail Ysgythrog, grandfather of the founder of this
rude monument of filial veneration, was engaged in the memorable border
wars at the close of the sixth century; and was defeated at the Battle of
Chester, A.D. 607. During the great rebellion this pillar was thrown
down by Oliver Cromwell's "Reformers," who in their fiery zeal for
destruction mistook it for a "Popish Cross;" and it remained for more
than a century in its broken recumbent condition, when it was restored by
the patriotism and intelligence of Mr. Lloyd of Trevor Hall, and replaced
upon its pedestal with a suitable memorial to record the fact. It now
forms an interesting relic of antiquity, and is probably the oldest
British Cross (bearing a carved inscription) which exists in these
islands. That said inscription has long been a puzzle to the learned
investigator of archaeological remains.
Having wandered through the verdant meads of the "happy valley," the
adventurous tourist may probably wish to climb the lofty hill, which is
crowned by the romantic ruins of the Castle of Dinas Bran. This
memorable fortress of the past, is a remarkable object from all parts of
the vale; for whose safety and defence it was long the abode of a line of
chiefs renowned in Cambrian lore. The view from the summit is
exceedingly picturesque, grand, and imposing; and naturally prompts the
exclamation of the Poet of the Seasons--
"Heavens! what a goodly prospect spreads around."
On descending the mountain-path, the traveller may perchance look round
for a comfortable resting-place and good refreshment; he will readily
find both, either at the Hand, or the King's Head Hotel. In the album of
the latter house of entertainment he may also peruse the following
bacchanalian effusion in honour of "Llangollen Ale," which he will then
be in the mood to enjoy; and as he quaffs this nectar of the valley, he
may thus chaunt its praises, if in a convivial humour, to the music of a
Welsh harp--