order to continue the A Route; a recess is soon entered, out of which
the way lies almost directly upwards for quite 40 feet to the ‘belay,’
where Oliverson’s Variation joins the old route about 80 feet above the
terrace. A traverse to the left is then made to the foot of the shallow
Lichen Chimney, the ascent of which is the stiffest part of the course,
and almost 60 feet of rope is used by the leader before the second man
can be brought forward from the ‘belay.’ The last pitch consists of a
narrow chimney, with the best holds on the right wall, which finishes
abruptly at the top of the crag.
B ROUTE.--Starting from Thomson’s Ledge a traverse is made to
the right in an upward direction until a corner is turned and the foot
of Amen Corner, a 15-foot pitch of extreme severity, is reached. This
is a slanting crack on a rock wall that overhangs, as also does the
other wall, which forms the corner. The best method of surmounting
this is to grip the upper edge of the crack and walk up the other edge
with the body nearly horizontal at first, and the hands and feet close
together.
From the top of this pitch a ledge, known as the Gangway, which slopes
outwards and upwards, is followed for about 30 feet to a small grass
platform, and the Green Gully rises straight overhead. This is awkward
to enter directly, and it may be better to ascend some 15 feet on the
right, whence a stride can be taken into the bed of the gully. For
quite 70 feet the ascent is not difficult, and at that height the
leader reaches the anchorage of the Crow’s Nest. This is a small hollow
in the right wall, and it is attained by making a short traverse, where
the hands do most of the work. Very little assistance can be given to
those following, as the rope tends to pull the climber from his holds,
but anchorage can be found by threading the rope behind the handholds
which were used on the traverse.
The gully can be climbed to the summit, but being grassy and loose in
places, it is preferable to finish up the sound arête directly above
the Crow’s Nest.
A variation which finishes up with this section can be made by way of
an upward traverse to the right from the top of the 40-foot corner on
the A Route, and this would join the Green Gully about 15 feet below
the Crow’s Nest. It might also be mentioned that both above and below
Amen Corner traverses can be effected to the right to join the Gimmer
Chimney.
The deep, wide gully to the left of the main crag possesses one cave
pitch, which may be passed on the right of the chock-stone, but this
may be avoided altogether by keeping to the right throughout. The other
gullies on the west side of Gimmer Crag afford good scrambling, but
here again the difficulties are too easily obviated.
Climbers staying at Langdale could spend an enjoyable day by walking
over to Grasmere and thence visiting the crags in Easedale or Deer
Bield’s Crag in Far Easedale. After the climb is over it makes a
delightful finish to the day to return to Langdale over the fells by
Codale and Stickle Tarns.
THE TARN CRAG above Easedale Tarn is a prominent feature in
a favourite landscape. Quite recently Mr. J. Stables unearthed,
literally, a route thereon which gives about 200 feet of quite good,
sound climbing. The beginning lies in a line below the left of the
highest point, and cairns now mark the way. The passage from the first
chock-stone pitch to the recess, with the ensuing face traverse, will
be found the most difficult section of the ascent.
DEER BIELD’S CRAG in Far Easedale is quite an hour’s walk away
from Grasmere. Its height is nearly 300 feet; and a buttress runs up
the centre, with impossible-looking chimneys on either side. That on
the left is still unclimbed, but the one on the right yielded to the
attack of Messrs. Stables and Turner in 1908. They found at least
half-a-dozen difficult pitches, the fourth proving to be the stiffest
of all. The rock on Deer Bield’s Crag is firm and reliable, but
singularly free from good ledges for hands and feet. Upward progress is
made by using the numerous cracks which are a curious feature of the
structure.
For an off-day there is no more pleasant spot in Langdale than the
vicinity of the Oak How Needle, which is perched on the side of
Lingmoor, below the upper crags. Its situation is almost opposite
a point on the coach road about half a mile beyond Chapel Stile
when going towards Dungeon Ghyll. The outstanding mass makes a good
photograph. The ascent of the short side is easy, but a crack on the
front of the rock may be considered decidedly difficult.
The outline of BOWFELL as seen from near the head of Windermere
is one of the most massive and picturesque in Lakeland. The Langdale
Pikes are perhaps more arresting at first sight, but a longer study
of the mass to their left conveys a sense of grandeur and stability
lacking in the more famous ‘twin peaks of Langdale.’
THE LINKS OF BOWFELL are well worth a visit from climbers
passing from Dungeon Ghyll to Wastdale, for they offer a pleasant
contrast to the exposed buttresses of Gimmer Crag. Unlike most of our
rock-faces, they have a southerly aspect, overlooking Eskdale and Three
Tarns. The gullies, starting at the eastern end of the crags, are
numbered from one to eleven, but only Nos. 4, 5, and 6 contain good
climbing. The others are a suitable practice ground for novices.
It is well to start operations in No. 4, which has two pitches of
interest, and then descend by way of No. 3 to the foot of No. 5. The
large pitch at its foot is quite entertaining, and upon the occasion
of its first ascent, on a day of pouring rain, offered a stubborn
resistance before capitulating on the right. Above it, easy going takes
one quickly to the top of the crags, and thence around to the foot of
No. 6.
This also possesses a good pitch of the chock-stone variety near its
foot. The way up it lies straight to beneath the ‘capstone,’ which bars
direct progress. It is then feasible to work out under the stone on the
right until an upward move can be made to the top of the pitch. On the
occasion of the first ascent, in September 1897, by Messrs. C. R. B.
Storry, G. H. McKilburn, and the writers, the upper part of the pitch
was topped by loose stones; even nowadays it is well for the following
climbers to take cover under the capstone, both for their own safety
and to belay the leader as he scales the pitch.
THE BOWFELL BUTTRESS is a more serious proposition, and as
a climb the route found up it, in December 1900, by Messrs. Shaw,
Oppenheimer, Craig, Hargreaves, and West, compares in point of
difficulty and length with the North Climb on the Pillar, if the latter
ceased immediately above the Nose.
The Buttress faces N.N.E., overlooking Mickleden, and is best reached
from Langdale by following ‘the Band’--the long, grassy spur running
down towards Stool End Farm--about two-thirds of the way to the top of
Bowfell. From here it is best to contour around to the right and thence
along, bearing obliquely upward, to the foot of the Crags.
The work starts at the lowest point of the Buttress, and, to quote Mr.
Oppenheimer’s lucid account, ‘after 30 feet of broken rocks, the foot
of a long chimney is passed, and a 10-foot chimney to the right of it,
with an awkward pitch, taken. This leads, in another 10 feet, to a
small terrace running down to a gully on the right. The next 50 feet
is an upward traverse to the left, into the long chimney, soon after
entering which a good sentry-box affords a stopping-place.
‘After 40 feet straight up the long chimney the latter ends on a grass
terrace, which slopes down to the right and broadens considerably;
following this, for 20 feet, a rather difficult vertical crack is
reached. From the shelf at the top of the crack 50 feet up, bare rough
rocks lead to a grassy corner. Here there is a very convenient large
block, to which the second man should belay himself as the leader
advances to the left along a very exposed upward traverse, with little
handhold, into a small rock corner.
‘The best plan here is to climb to the right, away from the corner, and
then to the left over the top of it, on to a grassy patch sloping away
to the left, beside a fine belaying pin. To the right of this a chimney
starts: 40 feet up there is a small pitch; then another 40 feet on
sloping slabs to the right with a wall to the left, leads to the top of
the Low Man, where a cairn has been placed.
‘Twenty feet more of easy scrambling leads to the top of the buttress,
which is separated from the mass of Bowfell by a narrow neck, from
which scree gullies descend on either side.’
A few short scrambles can be found amongst the crags above Angle
Tarn on Hanging Knott, but the terrace-like formation of the rocks
hereabouts is of greater interest to the geologist than to the climber.
Flat Crags, and the wild recesses of Hell Ghyll and Crinkle Ghyll, have
been visited by the fraternity, but their reports of these localities
are quite unfavourable, except as regards their scenery.
DOE CRAG.--At the time of the writing of Jones’ chapter on this
fine cliff, most of the routes up the best rock faces in the district
were exhausted, and short variations had become the order of the day.
Doe Crag was the one great climbing ground which had many new,
unexplored courses upon it, and the almost certain knowledge Jones
had of their existence is evident to all who read his chapter in the
present book. These delightful descriptions of the gullies are in every
way accurate at the present time, except that the Intermediate Gully
is now ascended direct over every pitch; it is only necessary in this
Appendix to carry the tale through another epoch--the Buttress epoch.
This started in March 1903, when Mr. F. Philipson and the writers
made the ascent of the two most prominent buttresses. Since that time
the various remaining buttresses and their subsidiary ridges have
been ascended in such detail and thoroughness as characterize the
nail-scratched rocks of Scawfell and the Pillar. These courses are now
described, irrespective of merit or difficulty, as they occur from
left to right as one stands facing the crags at a point slightly above
Goat’s Water. The nomenclature is that adopted by Mr. G. F. Woodhouse
in his excellent monograph, and by those who later made virgin ascents
on this magnificent crag. It but remains to be said that, whereas the
gullies are almost exclusively for expert and ultra-expert parties, the
buttresses offer climbs which in many cases may be safely undertaken by
parties of moderate strength.
[Illustration: DOE CRAG, SEEN FROM ACROSS GOAT’S WATER
A A Buttress.
B B Buttress.
C C Buttress.
D D Buttress.
E E Buttress.
_f_ Easy Gully.
_g_ Great Gully.
_h_ Central Chimney.
_j_ Intermediate Gully.
_k_ Easter Gully.
_l_ North Gully.
_m_ A Buttress Climb. _Original Route._
_n_ A Buttress Variations.
_o_ B Buttress. _Broadrick’s Route._
_p_ The Lion’s Crawl.
_q_ Easy Terrace.
_r_ B Buttress. _Original Route._
_s_ B Buttress. _Woodhouse’s Routes._
_t_ C Buttress Climb.
_t_^1 C Buttress Climb Variation.
_t_^2 Branch exit from Intermediate Gully.
_v_ D Buttress Climb.
_w_ Blizzard Chimney.
_x_ Easter Gully. _Jones’ Route and continuation up E Buttress._
_y_ Easter Gully. Broadrick’s Crack.
_z_ E Buttress Climbs.
3 The Real Chimney.
4 Woodhouse’s Crack.]
A BUTTRESS is the magnificent bastion which separates the Easy
Scree Gully from the Great Gully. Unlike the other buttresses, which
afford good climbing only for about 200 feet above their bases, the
best sport is to be obtained in its higher reaches. The climbing starts
at about the centre of the buttress, where is a cairn, but a vast
overhanging precipice forces the climber away diagonally to the left
along a narrow, grass ledge, which dwindles until, at a considerable
height above the screes, an awkward corner is rounded. This can be
reached by two distinct variations starting lower down and to the left
of the route described, both of which are very stiff. Above this a thin
crack is ascended for about 30 feet until a large ledge is attained.
Here a choice of routes is available. A cave pitch straight ahead can
be ascended on the right wall and, after ascending some broken rocks, a
traverse to the right discloses an interesting chimney, above which the
serious climbing ceases. An easy gully leads to this cave pitch direct
from the Easy or Little Gully.
For very strong parties a fine variation is to traverse diagonally
upward to the right from the large ledge, treading the upper edge of
the huge overhanging crag already referred to, until a fine chimney
is entered. This is difficult, but the anchorage is good. A few feet
above it an exposed traverse is made away to the right until the foot
of a most sensational crack is reached. This can be climbed, or the
traverse continued somewhat further until upward progress can be made
by a zigzag course almost overhanging the upper confines of the Great
Gully. To Messrs. Ormiston-Chant, Craig Gordon, and Parker most of the
fine variations on this buttress have fallen.
B BUTTRESS offers several good climbs, the most recently
discovered of which--the Giant’s Crawl--starts at the foot of the
Great Gully and, after striking straight upwards for about 100 feet of
exceptional severity, follows a well-defined slab diagonally to the
right for about 250 feet. It then doubles back to the left and thence
to the top of the crags.
Some years ago Messrs. R. W. and H. C. Broadrick made a very fine climb
up the crest of the retaining wall of the Great Gully. This started
from the same point as the Giant’s Crawl, but instead of continuing
across the face to the right they struck upward over some poised and
shattered blocks and came upon the well-defined crest referred to;
thence, by continuously steep and sensational rocks, which, however,
afford good holding, they forced a way to the crest of the crags--one
of the best and longest routes up the Buttresses.
A few feet below the foot, and to the right of the Great Gully, a wide
broken terrace or rake gives easy access to the heart of the crags, and
all the other good climbs on B, C, and D Buttresses to be described,
finish on this terrace.
Some considerable distance below the start of the terrace, and at
about the lowest extremity of B Buttress, a thin crack starts up to
the right. This marks the start of the route by which the Buttress was
first climbed. The crack gives out upon a grass ledge about 30 feet
above the screes. Beyond this a somewhat awkward stretch of climbing
brings one below some overhanging rocks, which entail a flank movement
to the left until a conspicuous recess is reached. The continuation
above this is most exhilarating, a steep exposed face of rock which
takes the climber into an ideal situation, and which claims his entire
attention in the continuation of its enjoyment. Two chimneys on either
hand have both been climbed, but the ascent of the rock-face should not
be missed. It finishes on the Easy Terrace. Above this the Buttress
evidences a lack of continuous climbing, and the time will be better
spent by descending the terrace and thence round to the foot of the
Central Chimney.
After ascending the easy rocks at its foot for about a hundred feet, a
detached pinnacle is a prominent object on the left. Messrs. Woodhouse
found that by passing behind this a fine chimney could be entered and
ascended to a grassy ledge at its top. A pleasing variation is to be
had by passing below the pinnacle, whence a steep slab recommends
itself to the gymnast, and, after a strenuous pull on the arms, lands
him at the foot of the chimney mentioned above. From the grassy ledge
above it the route can be varied in many ways, but the best sport lies
across to the left for a few feet, where a chimney of real difficulty
forms the lowest of a series of pitches of great merit.
C BUTTRESS separates the Central Chimney from the Intermediate
Gully, and throughout its entire length is set at a very high angle. It
offers little temptation to stray from the line of least resistance,
and the climbing is better defined than on most of the Buttress routes.
For a hundred feet or so the holds are large and plentiful, but the
climbing is interesting withal, until further progress in the same line
is barred by impending rocks.
After traversing slightly to the right some steep slabs provide
excellent sport until a good belaying pin is reached. Again discretion
suggests a flank movement, this time slightly downwards to the left,
and thence, after rounding a corner, upward progress is made to a grass
ledge.
The scenery hereabouts is magnificent, and a few minutes can be well
spent in viewing the formidable difficulties of the Central Chimney,
the greater part of which is now visible. It appears anything but
inviting, and most people will be content with merely looking. Our
Buttress also has become difficult, and the next move up some steep
slabs, which terminate on a wide grassy ledge awkward of access, is
one necessitating considerable care and skill on the part of the leader.
A little beyond this, on the right, is a steep chimney leading
downward to the Intermediate Gully, at a point immediately below the
difficult pitch. This branch chimney was first ascended by the brothers
Woodhouse, and is stiff.
The continuation of our climb now begins to lose interest, and before
long we find ourselves at the foot of the final pitch of the Central
Chimney, whence the going is comparatively easy.
D BUTTRESS, separating the Intermediate and Easter Gullies, is,
in the writers’ opinion, the most entertaining and prettiest problem of
all. In its lower reaches it is quite easy and apt to disappoint until,
at the same height as the difficult pitch of the Intermediate Gully, it
rises almost vertically for above a hundred feet.
The way lies up a vertical arête, which recalls most strongly some
of the Coolin Ridges. The holds are sound and rough, but none too
large--just sufficient to leave a fair margin of safety in a very
exposed position. This delightful stretch gives out at an excellent
belay, beyond which the interest continues unabated for 50 feet or so,
until it ceases on a wide grass platform. Shortly beyond this the Easy
Terrace is again reached.
Before dealing with the easy climbs of the E Buttress, mention must
be made of three fine chimneys, two of which have been climbed since
Jones wrote his description of the Easter Gully. On page 235, after
he had ascended the first pitch of the Gully and attained the ‘great
hollow’ above it, he refers to ‘splendid branch gullies up to the
ridges on either side.’
Two of these branch gullies were climbed many years ago, that on the
left-hand wall, now called the South Chimney, by Mr. H. C. Broadrick,
and its counterpart on the North Wall by the brothers Woodhouse.
This latter is known as the Black Chimney. It is deeply cut, and looks
most forbidding. A closer acquaintance dispels most of its terrors, for
the holds are excellent, and the fearsome upper capstone can be rounded
on the right-hand side with comparative ease. It is, however, well
worth a visit, and the continuation up the E Buttress is not lacking in
interest.
Lower down than the South Chimney--a pretty problem in ‘backing up’--a
rectangular opening in the crags, almost immediately above the first
pitch of the Easter Gully, claimed the attention of Messrs. Woodhouse,
Westmorland, and the writers in April 1910. A heavy blizzard of snow
and hail, which fell at the time they made its first ascent, suggested
the name BLIZZARD CHIMNEY, and this was adopted. It has always
seemed rather a pity that the majority of the names on Doe Crag are so
prosy; the latter-day climbers have lacked the happy knack of giving
distinctive names to their exploits.
[Illustration:
G. P. Abraham & Sons, Photos. Keswick
THE BROADRICK’S AND HOPKINSON’S CRACKS DOE CRAG]
The most awkward part of the Blizzard Chimney is at its foot; to effect
an entry is not easy, but once attained and an exposed bulge climbed by
the crack on the left, the rectangular opening is reached, and the way
lies up the left-hand wall of this. After about 90 feet of moderately
difficult climbing the chimney gives out on the D Buttress.
E BUTTRESS presents a variety of fairly easy climbs. None of
these possess sufficient individuality or difficulty to demand a
detailed description; the routes of greatest interest are shown on the
outline drawing facing p. 370. These climbs supply a real want on Doe
Crag, and render the climbing upon it, from ‘easy’ to ‘exceptionally
severe,’ graded to an ideal degree.
Beyond the North Gully there is no climbing of sustained interest,
but the REAL CHIMNEY, a curious cleft enclosed on all sides,
possesses unique features. It is about 150 feet above the foot of the
crags, some distance to the right of the North Gully.
The NORTH GULLY itself was first climbed in 1901 by the Messrs.
Barton, and again by the writers two years later. Since then it has
been visited several times. After climbing to the under side of the
chaos of jammed boulders which form the great pitch, a narrow ledge
will be noticed running outward along the left wall. The feat of
traversing along this with practically no support for the hands, and
a fearsome drop below, led to the inclusion of the Gully amongst the
‘exceptionally severe’ courses, and rightly so. Just when the ledge
dwindles to nothing, a good hold can be reached with the left hand, and
then a severe struggle upwards discloses good holding above. Thence
the going is easier, and the top of the boulders can soon be attained.
Away at the opposite end of the crags, a hundred feet to the left of
Slingsby’s Pinnacle in the Great Gully, and at about the same level
is a fine crack which the brothers Woodhouse first climbed in 1905.
The lowest 35 feet are of about the same standard of difficulty as the
Doctor’s Chimney on Gable Crag; indeed the crack as a whole is about
as long and of as great merit as its more popular counterpart on Great
Gable, and is very well worth a visit.
It but remains to be said that the first pitch of the Great Gully can
be climbed direct up the left-hand side of the boulder without the aid
of a threaded rope--a most strenuous effort--and that the two pitches
of the Intermediate Gully (which Mr. Jones obviated in the manner
described in his chapter) are amongst the very finest in the whole of
the Lake District.
Other climbs in the Coniston district have been discovered recently by
enthusiastic members of the Fell and Rock-Climbing Club.
SYLVAN CHIMNEY is one of the best of these. It lies to the left
of Church Beck, and is the most conspicuous cleft in the splintered
mass of rock between Boulder Valley and Lever’s Water, being situated
300 or 400 yards below the tarn.
(Boulder Valley is the fine upland hollow running from the foot of the
falls below Low Water in the direction of Lever’s Water.) The Chimney
affords about 120 feet of fairly difficult climbing.
A few yards to the left of Sylvan Chimney is GOULDON GULLY,
which gives a rather longer but somewhat easier climb. A slab of
about 70 feet provides excellent practice in neat footwork. Above it
a 100-foot chimney proves interesting, but unfortunately is somewhat
earthy in its interior.
COLONEL CRAG, the boss of rock at the foot of Paddy End, at
about the same height as Sylvan Chimney, has also been thoroughly
explored and climbed, but is scarcely worth a visit; indeed it is to be
feared that the proximity of Doe Crag would lead to the utter desertion
of vastly more entertaining places than these latest additions to the
Coniston climbs.
INDEX.
A
A Gully, Pike’s Crag, 3-5
” Wastwater Screes, 193
Aaron Slack, 114, 129
Abbey Ridge, Great Gable, 332-333
Abraham, Messrs., quoted, 247, 248, 288, 289, 290
Addyman, Mr. E. T. W., 333
‘All the Year Round’ quoted, 38, 41, 286
‘Alpine Journal,’ 12, 149, 164
Ampezzo Dolomites, 29
Angle Tarn, 33, 213
Ark, Pavey, 208-218, 358-361
Arrowhead Branch Gully, 149
” Gully, 146, 158
” Ridge, 147, 162-167
B
B Chimney, Pike’s Crag, 7-10
B Gully, Wastwater Screes.
_See_ Great Gully
‘Backing-up,’ 124
Baddeley’s Guide Book, 33
Badminton ‘Mountaineering,’ 105, 112
Barton, Messrs., 321
Bear Rock, 147, 165
Beckhead, 114, 115, 121, 139
Beckhead Tarn, 115
Belaying Pin, Moss Ghyll, 50
Birkness Combe Climbs, 349-352
Black Chimney, Bleaberry Combe, 353
Black Crag Gully, Borrowdale, 354
Black Crags, 213
Black Sail Pass, 109, 254, 258
Blea Crags, 291, 292
Bleaberry Combe Climbs, 352-353
Blencathra, 93
Blue, Tom, 117.
_See_ Tom Blue
Boot, 37
Borrowdale, 93, 98, 114, 237, 239, 242
Botteril, Mr. F., 322, 332, 342, 347
Botteril’s Cracks, Scawfell, 341-342
Bottle-shaped Pinnacle, 119, 123, 138
” ” Ridge, 131, 335
Bowfell, 89, 211, 213
” Buttress, 368-369
” The Links, 367-368
Brandreth, 114, 117, 119, 136
Broad Stand, 27, 32-37
” ” Descent, 40
Brown Tongue, 12, 28, 36, 91
Brunskill, Mr. W. B., 347
Buckbarrow, 196, 287
Burnmoor, 27
Burnthwaite, 252
Buttermere, 271, 281, 282, 287
Buttermere Climbs, 344-353
C
C Gully, Pike’s Crag, 5-7
” Wastwater Screes, 192, 193, 200-207
Cairn, Hopkinson’s, 76, 80, 81
” Westmorland, 117, 151
Central Chimney, Bleaberry Combe, 353
” ” Doe Crag, 226-232
Central Gully, Gable Crag, 118, 130, 138-145, 336-337
” ” Great End, 90, 91-104
” ” Wastwater Screes.
_See_ C Gully
Central Jordan, 260, 318
Christmas climbing, 15, 19, 104, 120, 130, 197, 163
‘Climbing in England,’ 211, 218
Cockley Beck, 213
Collie Step, 45
Collier’s Climb, 8, 24, 31, 32, 55-65
” Chimney, 51-52
Collinson, Mr. W. L., 339
Colonel Crag, 379
Combe Ghyll, 237-242
Coniston, 213, 218, 219, 226
Corner, the Scawfell Chimney, 41
Court, the Tennis, 43, 44
Crack, Kern Knotts, 163, 182-187, 213, 238
Crack Grépon, 187
Craig, Mr. G. H., 349
” Mr. Alan, 372
Croda da Lago, 78
Curtain and Crête Climb, Pillar Rock, 326-327
Curtain, the Great End, 111
” Pillar Rock, 267, 268, 269, 326
Cust’s Gully, 39, 90, 111-113
D
D Gully, Pike’s Crag, 11
Decoy Pinnacle, 27
Deep Ghyll (Hell’s Gate), 146
Deep Ghyll, 2, 12-28, 32, 43, 58, 69, 70, 76, 77, 80, 81, 82, 84, 85,
86, 87, 88, 341
Deep Ghyll Cairn, 42
Deer Bield’s Crag, Easedale, 366
Derwent, 238
Derwentwater, 93
‘Divide,’ the, 106
Doctor’s Chimney, 136-140
Doe Crag, 219-236, 369-378
” A Buttress, 371-372
” B ” 372-374
” C ” 374-375
” E ” 375-376
” Blizzard Chimney, 376-377
” Central Chimney, 220, 223, 226-232
” Easter Gully, 221, 222, 235, 236
” Great Gully, 219, 220, 223-226
” Intermediate Gully, 232-234, 378
” North Gully, 377
Dolomites, 29, 56, 78, 185, 214
Dress Circle, the, 174
Drigg, 170
Dungeon Ghyll, 208, 209, 211, 214
E
Eagle Crag, 253
Eagle’s Nest, 160, 161
” Gully, 146, 147
” Ridge, 135, 147, 150, 155, 156-162, 163, 174, 314, 315
Easedale, 209
East Jordan, 260
” Gully, 267
Easter Gully, Doe Crags, 221, 222, 235, 236
‘Eight-foot Drop,’ 268
End, Great.
_See_ Great End
Engineer’s Chimney, Gable Crag, 311-313
Engleberg Valley, 107
Ennerdale, 114, 254, 271
” Face of Gable, 114, 115, 117-119
” Pillar, 70.
_See_ Pillar Rock
Esk Hause, 89, 93, 100, 110, 168, 213
Eskdale, 31, 34, 36, 42, 213
F
Facework, difficulty of, 16
Fairfield, 215
Far West Jordan Climb, 327
Fell and Rock-Climbing Club, 337, 378
Fives’ Court, Pisgah Buttress, 54, 343
Fleetwith, 345
” Gully, 345, 346
Freshfield’s Italian Alps, 29
Fünffingerspitze, 185
” Chimney, 230
Furness Railway, 287
G
Gable Crag, 141, 334-337
” ” Central Gully, 118, 130, 138-145, 311
” ” Oblique Chimney, 8, 118, 119-132, 136, 138, 141, 150,
183
” ” Sheep Walk, 118, 131-133, 312
” ” Traverse, 121
Gable End, 91
” Needle, 147, 150, 153, 156, 160, 165, 168-174
Gap, Wind, 114, 119, 128
” Windy (Wind Yatt), 254, 258
Gash Rock, 288
Gatesgarth, 271
Gatherstone Beck, 258, 259
Gavel Neese, 115, 121, 127, 138
Gibson, Mr. H. B., 327, 331
Gimmer Crag, 208, 361-365
” ” A Route, 363
” ” B Route, 363-364
” ” Amen Corner, 363
” ” Chimney, 361
Gimson, Messrs., 334
Glaramara, 237
Goatswater, 219, 220, 229
Gouldon Gully, 379
Grainy Ghyll, 92
Grasmoor, 353
Great Chimney, Deep Ghyll, 19, 24-26
” ” Pillar Rock, 260, 267, 268, 325
Great End, 39, 89-91, 93, 99, 211, 237
” ” Brother’s Crack, 338
” ” Central Gully, 91, 92-103
” ” South East Gully, 90, 104-111
Great Gable, 92, 114-117, 127, 135, 168, 176, 180, 237.
_See_ Gable Crag
Great Gully, Doe Crag, 223-226
” ” Pavey Ark, 213-218
” ” Wastwater Screes, 194-199
Great Napes, 116, 146, 147, 163, 167, 168
” Waterfall, 257
Green Cove, 259
” Crag Gully, 345, 346
” Gable, 114, 119, 128
” Ledge, Pillar Rock, 323
Grépon Crack, 187
Grey Knotts, 114
Guideless climbing, 135
Gwynne quoted, 208, 210
Gwynne’s Chimney, Pavey Ark, 358
H
Hand Traverse, 281, 282-284
Harrison Stickle, 208, 209, 214, 215
Haskett Smith, ‘Climbing in England,’ 211, 218
Hause.
_See_ Esk Hause
Haystacks, 345, 347
Hazard, Mr. J., 332
‘Heart of Lakeland,’ 344
Hell Gate, 117
Helvellyn, 215
High Level Route, Great Gable, 119
” ” ” Pillar, 259
High Man, Pillar Rock, 259, 260, 268, 269, 270, 281
High Man from the Nose, Pillar Rock, 324-326
High Stile, 286, 287
Hollow Stones, 2, 12, 22, 41, 48
Honister Pass, 114
Hopkinson’s Cairn, 76, 81
Horse and Man Rock, 2, 11
I
Ice-axes, 112;
applications of, 171, 184
Ill Fell, 207
Iron Crags, 304-311
‘Italian Alps,’ Freshfield’s, 29
Italy, Northern, 184
J
Jack’s Rake, 209, 210, 217, 218
Jammed-stone Pinnacle, 140, 141
Jenkinson’s Guide Book, 33
Jordan Gully, 259
” Pillar Rock, 70, 257, 258, 260, 281
” Scawfell Pinnacle, 19, 26, 69, 70, 72, 76
Journal, ‘Alpine,’ 12, 149, 164
” ‘Scottish Mountaineering,’ 193
K
Kern Knotts, 104, 117, 175-189, 213
” ” Chimney, 175-182, 186
” ” Crack, 163, 182-187, 213, 238
” ” West Chimney, 187-189
Keswick Brothers’ Climb, 31, 66-68
Kirkfell, 114, 117, 136, 139
Knotts, Grey, 114
Knotts, Thunacar, 214
L
Langdale, 33, 215
Langdale Combe, 213
” Pikes, 208, 213
Langstrath, 239, 288
Laycock, Mr. J., 334
Le Coin, 323, 324
‘Ledge,’ the, Pillar Rock, 268
” Tennis Court, 43
Left Pisgah, 260, 266
Ling Chimney, 314, 315
Lingmell, 2, 91, 173, 285
‘Little Dru of the Lake District,’ 69
” Gully, Pavey Ark, 210-213
” Hell Gate, 146
Liza Stream, 114, 254, 281
Lliwedd, 226
Looking Stead, 254, 258, 259
Lord’s Rake, 13, 16, 22, 27, 29, 34, 36, 69, 73, 74, 79, 83, 84
Low Man, Pillar Rock, 70, 257, 258, 260, 261, 269, 270, 272, 276,
278, 281
Low Man, Scawfell Pinnacle, 14, 16, 70, 73, 74, 77, 82, 83, 85, 88,
265
Low Man Cairn, Scawfell Pinnacle, 83
” ” ” Pillar Rock, 270
Lower Kern Knotts, 175, 176
Lyon, Mr. H. B., 338, 346
M
Manchester Town Hall, 191
‘Mantleshelf,’ the, 277, 282
Marshall, Prof. Milnes, 13
Matterhorn, 135
Mauritius, Pieter Botte, 69
Mickledore, 1, 12, 13, 29, 31, 34, 35, 37, 38, 40, 65
” Chimney, 32.
_See_ Scawfell Chimney
” Screes, 36
Mönch, 208
Mosedale, 92, 254, 258
” Rocks, 337-338
Moses’ Sledgate, 115, 121, 128
Moss Ghyll, 15, 30, 32, 43-53, 76, 92, 239, 341
Mouse Ghyll, 291, 292, 354
N
Napes, Great, 116, 136, 146-147, 150, 172
” White, 115, 127, 128, 133
Needle, Gable, 147, 150, 153, 156, 160, 165, 168-174
” Gully, 146, 150-152, 154, 159, 162, 174
” Ridge, 147, 153-156, 334
Neese, Gavel, 115, 121, 127, 138
Nether Beck, 190
New North West Climb, Pillar Rock, 318, 322-324
New West Climb, Pillar Rock, 317, 318-320
North Climb (Pillar Rock), 271-282
” ” (Penrith), 31, 37, 38, 55
‘Nose,’ the, Pillar Rock, 257, 259, 271, 275
” ” Scawfell Pinnacle, 74
‘Notch,’ the, 268
O
Oak How Needle, 336
Oblique Chimney, 8, 118, 119-132, 136, 138, 141, 150, 182, 183
Old Man, Coniston, 213, 219, 229
” Wall, Pillar Rock, 269, 326
Oppenheimer, Mr. L. J., 321, 322, 344, 345, 349, 350
Oppenheimer’s Chimney, 353
‘Outside Edge,’ Gable Needle, 173
P
‘Pall Mall Budget’ quoted, 170
Parson’s Gully, 42
Pavey Ark, 208-218, 358-361
” ” Benison’s Chimney, 360
” ” Gibson’s Chimney, 360
” ” Gullies, 208, 218
” ” Great Gully, 213-218
” ” Little Gully, 210-213
Pedestrians, Notes for, 27
Pelmo Traverse, 29
Pendlebury Traverse, 268
Penrith Climb. _See_ North Climb
Petty’s Rift, 31
Photography and Climbing, 163
Pier’s Ghyll, 91, 239, 285-286, 342-343
Pieter Botte, 69
Pike of Stickle, 208, 213
Pike’s Crag, 1-11
Pikes of Scawfell, 2, 33, 50, 99
Pillar Fell, 91, 254, 255, 258, 267
” Rock, 254-284, 317-331
Pinnacle, Bottle-shaped, 119, 123, 138
” Jammed-stone, 140, 141
” Scawfell, 19, 27, 69-88, 265
Pisgah Buttress, 53-55, 342
” Left, 260, 266
” Pillar Rock, 70, 257, 260, 328
” Right, 260, 266
” Scawfell, 19, 26, 32, 70, 71
‘Playground of Europe,’ Leslie Stephen’s, 76
Pope, Mr. H. R., 333, 342
Pressure on Loose Stones, 26
Professor’s Chimney, 19, 25, 26, 27, 69, 70, 71, 76
Progress, Rake’s, 13, 29-32, 37, 38, 43, 46, 57, 58, 60, 63, 66
Pulpit Rock, 2, 11, 31, 33, 35
R
Rake End Chimney, 218
” Ennerdale Face, 121
” Jack’s, 209, 210, 217, 218
” Lord’s, 13, 16, 22, 27, 29, 34, 36, 69, 73, 74, 79, 84
Rake’s Progress, 13, 29-32, 37, 38, 43, 46, 57, 58, 60, 63, 66
Raven Crag, Chimney, 253
” ” Glaramara, 237, 242
” ” ” Gully, 242-253
” ” Great Gable, 117, 175, 180
Reade, Mr. H. V., 336
Robinson, Mr. J. W., quoted, 119, 120
Robinson’s Chimney (Deep Ghyll), 14, 16, 17
” Gully, Great End, 90
Rope, How _not_ to use it, 154, 155
” Length of, 83, 239
” Special application of, 225, 228, 278
Rossett Ghyll, 33
Rosthwaite, 238, 288
” Fell, 237
Rothhorn, Zinal, 73
Rücksack Club, 345
S
Sack, Carrying the, 101, 102
Sanderson, Mr. R. B., 342
Sanger-Davies’ Book, 78, 230
Savage Gully, 258, 261, 272, 273, 275, 276, 277, 320-322
Scarpetti, 214
Scarth Gap, 117, 271, 281
Scawfell, 13, 27, 29, 30, 35, 69, 70, 237, 339-347
” Cairn, 37, 42
” Chimney, 32, 34, 39-42
” Crags, 1, 13
” Pikes, 33, 208. _See_ Pikes of Scawfell
” Pinnacle, 19, 27, 69-88, 275
” ” by Deep Ghyll, 76-84, 195
” ” by Steep Ghyll, 11, 14
” ” from Upper Deep Ghyll, 339-340
‘Scottish Mountaineering Journal,’ 193
Screes, Central Gully, 193, 200-207
” Great Gully, 194-199, 248
” Wastwater, 58, 190-207
Seathwaite Fell, 237
Seatoller, 238, 271
Seatree, Mr. George, quoted, 38
‘Sentry-box,’ the, 52, 53
Sergeant Crag Gully, 288-290, 354
Shamrock, 255, 257, 259, 281, 329-330
” Buttress, 330
” Chimney, 256, 264-265, 330, 331
” Gully, 25, 256, 261-264
‘Sheep Walk,’ the, 118, 131, 133, 312
Shoulthwaite, 304
Skew Ghyll, 89, 92
Skiddaw, 93, 296
Slab and Notch Route, 260, 267-268
Slack, Aaron, 114, 129
Sledgate, Moses’, 115, 121, 128
Slingsby’s Chimney, Scawfell, 73, 75, 83
” Crack, Pillar Rock, 270
Sloan, Dr. J. S., 335
Smuggler’s Chimney, 335
” Retreat, 118, 335
Snow, Heavy, 23
South-east Gully, Great End, 90, 104-111
‘Split Block,’ 277
Spout Head, 92
Sprinkling Tarn, 89, 93, 98, 100, 237, 252
Stack Ghyll, 348-349
Stake Pass, 214, 220
Stand, Broad, 27, 32-37, 40
Steep Ghyll, 13, 20, 30, 43, 48, 53, 57, 69, 71, 73, 74, 85, 86, 243
Step, Collie’s, 45
Stickle, Pike of, 208, 213
” Tarn, 211, 215
Stirrup Crag, 118
” Rope, 279, 280
‘Stomach Traverse,’ 272, 274, 276
Stones, Hollow, 2, 12, 22, 41, 48
Stony Gully, 119, 141, 324, 325
Strands, 190
‘Strid,’ the, 277
Styhead Pass, 89, 91, 115, 117, 168, 181, 213, 237
” Tarn, 93, 128
Sugarloaf, 208
Switzerland, 111
Sylvan Chimney, 379
T
Tarn Crag, Easedale, 365
Taylor, Dr. J. H., 322
Tennis Court Ledge, 43, 44, 47, 49, 53, 55, 61, 244
Thompson, Mr. P. A., 320, 321
Thornythwaite Fell, 237
‘Thumbs Down,’ 180
Thunacar Knott, 214
Tin Box on Pinnacle, 72
Tom Blue, 117, 176, 179
Tongue, Brown, 12, 28, 36, 91
Toreador Gully, 346
Traverse, Gable Crag, 121
” Hand, 281, 282, 284
” Pelmo, 29
” Pendlebury, 268, 269
‘True Up,’ 104
U
Ullswater, 345
Upper Eskdale, 42
” Kern Knotts, 175, 176, 181
W
Walker’s Gully, 254, 255, 256, 258, 267, 269, 295-304, 328-330
Warn Gill, 345, 347-348
Warnscale Gullies, 345-349
Wastdale Church, 48
” Climbing-book, 1, 77, 119, 135, 136, 140, 156, 170, 247
” Head, 115, 116, 117, 191
Wastwater, 1, 27, 36, 170, 287
” Screes, 58, 190-207
Waterfall, Great, 258
West Chimney, Kern Knotts, 187-189
” Climb, Pillar Rock, 269-271, 281
” Jordan Crack, 327
” Jordan Gully, 315
” Wall Climb, 313-314
Westmorland Brothers, 152
” Cairn, 117, 151
” Crag, 117, 138, 151, 152
” Mr. Horace, 356
Wetherlam, 219
White Napes, 115, 127, 128, 133
Williamson, Mr. C. N., quoted, 37, 41, 69, 70, 286
Willink’s Illustrations, 270
Wind Gap, 114, 119, 128
” Yatt (Windy Gap), 254, 258
Windermere, 215
‘Window,’ the (Moss Ghyll), 45, 49
Woodhouse, Messrs., 338, 370, 373, 375, 376
Y
Yatt, Wind, 254, 258
Yewbarrow, 118, 190, 254
Z
Zinal Rothhorn, 73
WASTWATER HOTEL,
WASDALE HEAD, CUMBERLAND.
This HOTEL is charmingly situated at the head of Wastwater Lake, and is
the chief centre of Cumberland Climbing--the Pillar Rock, Great Gable,
Great End, Scafell and the Pikes, all being within an easy walk.
The arrangements of the Hotel have been made specially to suit the
requirements of Climbers and Tourists.
A First-Class DAUPHINE GUIDE and CLIMBER has been engaged, who will
conduct Climbers on the various Climbs in the District at a Moderate
Charge.
SMOKE AND BILLIARD ROOMS.
Conveyances can be sent to Seascale Stations to meet Visitors, if so
desired.
J. RITSON WHITING, Proprietor.
TERMS ON APPLICATION. LETTERS _via_ CARNFORTH.
_Agent for Beale’s (Buckingham’s) Celebrated Three-Strand Alpine
Rope--60, 80, 100 feet lengths always in Stock; also for Simond’s
Ice-Axes._
ALSO AT--
Rowhead Temperance Hotel,
WASDALE HEAD.
(Three Minutes’ Walk from the WASTWATER HOTEL.)
Beautifully situated at the foot of Kirkfell.
RE-FURNISHED THROUGHOUT.
CLIMBING PARTIES SPECIALLY CATERED FOR.
Three Sitting-rooms. Eight Large Bedrooms.
TERMS ON APPLICATION.
J. RITSON WHITING, Proprietor.
SUN HOTEL,
CONISTON.
(Quarters of the Fell and Rock-Climbing Club.)
TARIFF.
S. D. S. D.
Breakfast 1 6 2 0
Luncheon 1 9 3 6
Dinner 2 0 3 6
Teas 0 6 2 0
Bedrooms (Single) 2 0 3 0
Bedrooms (Double) 3 6 4 6
HOT AND COLD BATHS.
PUBLIC AND PRIVATE SITTING-ROOMS.
SEPARATE DRAWING-ROOM FOR LADIES.
T. SATTERTHWAITE, Proprietor.
LODORE HOTEL, Borrowdale,
KESWICK.
[Illustration]
This HOTEL is close to the Lake and surrounded by Beautiful
Scenery--Quiet, and a Good Centre for Walking and Climbing.
Electric Launches on the Lake. Garage. Telephone No. 2 G.P.O.
J. S. HARKER, Proprietor.
JAEGER
PURE WOOL
Complete Outfits in Pure Wool for Climbers.
+----------------------+
| _Alpine Outfits |
| a Specialty._ |
+----------------------+
| Shirts, |
| |
| Spencers, |
| |
| Sweaters, |
| |
| Alpine Mitts, |
| |
| Puttees, |
| |
| Camel-hair |
| |
| Sleeping Bags, |
| |
| etc. |
| |
+----------------------+
|Illustrated Price List|
|Post Free. |
+----------------------+
JAEGER PURE WOOL WEAR is never oppressive, while always protecting from
chill. Expert Athletes, of both sexes, know from experience that it is
the most suitable covering, and the wide World knows the JAEGER Name
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LONDON--126 Regent Street, W.
456 Strand, Charing Cross, W.C.
30 Sloane Street, S.W.
102 Kensington High Street, W.
115 Victoria Street, S.W. (close to A. & N. Stores).
85 and 86 Cheapside, E.C.
MANCHESTER--18 King Street, and 10 Princes Street.
LIVERPOOL--58 Church Street, and 4 Castle Street.
_Address in other towns sent on application._
H. HARDEN,
PRACTICAL ALPINE BOOTMAKER.
_Boots made from an old one as pattern and nailed complete with best
small and large Alpine Nails, Swiss Pattern._
[Illustration]
Our Boots are already well known and used by most Expert Mountaineers.
Boots Ready in Stock, Nailed and Complete, for Immediate Delivery.
PRICES ON APPLICATION.
ST. JOHN STREET, KESWICK, CUMBERLAND.
BURBERRY
WEATHERPROOF CLIMBING KIT
[Illustration]
CLIMBERS REALISE the vital importance of clothing that meets the
exigencies of this strenuous pastime, and agree that BURBERRY
successfully solves the problem of the most healthful, comfortable, and
serviceable equipment.
BURBERRY MATERIALS are especially woven and scientifically
weather-proofed by Burberry processes for the set purposes of:--
Affording natural warmth by diverting cold winds.
Preventing penetration by rain, sleet or snow.
Maintaining normal temperature under the most divergent conditions.
Combining ability to withstand the rough wear and tear of climbing
with remarkable light weight.
BROCHURE “Y” clearly sets forth how all these are accomplished. A copy
will be sent on request with patterns of cloths made especially for
climbers.
BURBERRYS The Haymarket, S.W., LONDON; 10 Boulevard Malesherbes, PARIS;
Basingstoke; and Agents in Provincial Towns.
ARTHUR BEALE,
Late JOHN BUCKINGHAM,
194 SHAFTESBURY AVENUE, LONDON, W.C.
IS THE ONLY MAKER OF THE CELEBRATED
ALPINE CLUB ROPE,
WHICH IS ALMOST EXCLUSIVELY EMPLOYED
By the =Leading Mountaineers= of the time. It is made of the Best
Manilla Hemp, and the new Rope now being made, which from tests taken
(Admiralty proof) is of a much greater breaking strain than formerly,
is marked by three red worsted threads, one in the centre of each
strand to distinguish it from others on the market, and not one thread
only in the centre of the Rope as heretofore (see the Report of the
Special Committee on Ropes, &c., in Vol. I., No. 7, of the _Alpine
Journal_). Each length is tied with Red Tape bearing my Name.
_BEWARE OF FRAUDULENT IMITATIONS._
ARTHUR BEALE (late JOHN BUCKINGHAM),
194 Shaftesbury Avenue, London, W.C.
ICE AXES by English and Foreign Makers kept in Stock.
RÜCKSACKS, BELTS, SLINGS, &c. PRICE LISTS ON APPLICATION.
_Diploma awarded for Alpine Rope at the Bergen Sports Exhibition 1910._
JAMES S. CARTER
_The Alpine Bootmaker_,
16 South Molton Street (First Floor),
LONDON, W.
[Illustration: 45/-]
Specialist in Boots for =Climbing & Touring= For over 50 years Maker to
the
ENGLISH,
CONTINENTAL,
CANADIAN and CAPE
ALPINE and
CLIMBING CLUBS.
_Illustrated Price List on application._
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
_Es’ablished nearly a Century._
HILL & SON,
4 Haymarket, London, S.W.
(_Opposite His Majesty’s Theatre._)
London Manufacturers of Sporting, Table, Toilet and Pocket Cutlery,
Alpine Ice Axes and Accessories, Skates and Fine Steel Work.
=H. & S.= have a very Interesting Stock of Mechanical Contrivances and
Useful Inventions for Everyday Wants.
Utilities of all Sorts for Travellers and the Household.
Specialities for the Garden. Jewellery, Silverware and
Electroplate.
ALL LISTS FREE.
_Alpine Ice Axes--Various Patterns for Ladies and Gentlemen._
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
Rücksacks. Several Patterns, With and Without Outside Pockets. Of
Foreign Manufacture, from 12s. 6d.
London Make, 17s., 18s. 6d. and 22s.
Alpine Expedition Stick, as Illustration, with Steel Head and
Point, and Leather Head Case, 23s. 6d.
Ash, Hazel, and Oak Mountaineering Sticks, with Steel Points, 9s.
6d., 10s., 11s.
[Illustration]
BOOT FURNITURE.--No. 6, Mummery Spikes, 1s. 3d. per dozen. Nos. 1, 2,
5, 6d. per dozen. Swiss Side and Centre Nails, 1s. 6d. per 100. Larger
Side Nails, 4s. 6d. per 100. _Postages extra._
_LANGDALE._
Dungeon Ghyll New Hotel
(Quarters of the Fell and Rock-Climbing Club).
_The Hill Climbers’ Paradise._ _In the Heart of Lakeland._
_The Place for a Restful Holiday._
PERFECT BATHROOMS AND SANITARY ARRANGEMENTS.
NEWLY FURNISHED THROUGHOUT.
_Postal Address_--AMBLESIDE. _Telegraphic Address_--ELTERWATER.
J. COWPERTHWAITE
(_Of the Prince of Wales and Rothay Hotels, Grasmere_), PROPRIETOR.
J. FOTHERGILL, Manager.
MOUNTAIN AND CLIMBING PHOTOGRAPHS.
Our Unique and Well-known Series now include the following Districts
and their Surrounding Peaks: Zermatt, Chamonix, Grindelwald, Arolla,
=Pontresina=, Oetzthal and Stubaithal; also the =Dauphiny Alps, the
Dolomites and the Grand Combin=.
The British Series include the English Lake District, North Wales,
Scotland, and Skye.
In Platinotype, 8-1/4 by 6-1/4 ins., at 1s. 6d. each; Set of 50, £3,
10s. Other Sizes also, up to 40 by 30 ins., in Carbon and Platinotype.
We Specialise in High-Class
LANTERN SLIDES
of any Subject in the above Series.
Price, =2s.= each; Set of =50=, =£4, 10s.=
_Lists and Full Particulars from_
Messrs. G. P. ABRAHAM & SONS,
Victoria Buildings,
KESWICK.
FOOTNOTES:
[1] Not in Jones’ List.
[2] In the Wastdale Climbers’ Book.
* * * * * *
Transcriber’s note:
Obvious printer errors corrected silently.
Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation are as in the original.