_NOTES ON REMAINING CLIMBS_
In this chapter it is proposed to deal summarily with a few remaining
rock-climbs that have not yet been described. Some are rather awkward
to reach, others are perhaps too slight to be worth the time spent in
reaching them unless they actually turn up in the day’s march. One or
two I have not visited, and am reluctant to accept the responsibility
of guiding people up them. But
What he thought he might require,
He went and took--the same as me!
is too general a motto among book-writers for me to hesitate long
before incorporating other people’s notes, and the attempt will be made
to acknowledge the source in each case.
PIERS GHYLL.--This is a fine-looking ravine on the north side
of Lingmell, occasionally visited by climbers. It has four or five
comparatively easy pitches before the big bend, but at the point where
the main gully is bridged by a great mass of rock the whole width of
the ravine is occupied by a waterfall fifty feet high, and any attempt
to force a passage up this pitch is peculiarly unsatisfactory unless a
rainless season has much diminished the volume of water passing down.
Such a season was that of 1893, and in April of that year Dr. Collier
led the first party up the whole length of the ghyll. Even under those
favourable circumstances the climb was very difficult, and no other
party has succeeded in repeating the ascent. Dr. Collier tells me that
the hardest bit is up the narrow pitch before reaching the great fall.
The latter offers a choice of two or three routes.
Piers Ghyll is conspicuous from a distance, and many a tourist knows
the place. Hence it has a reputation of its own even as a climb, which
it can scarcely be said to deserve. If, as Haskett Smith expresses it,
it is in nineteen seasons out of twenty wholly impossible to get over
the great obstacle, it cannot rightly be called a climb. The scrambling
up to the bend is mostly unpleasant by reason of the water and the
loose character of the rock. An exit can there be made up the wall on
the right, but the friability of this wall makes its ascent positively
dangerous except at one spot where a scree gully runs nearly to the top
of the cliff.
A most interesting account of the ghyll, giving certain of the
adventures that explorers have encountered, may be read in ‘All
the Year Round’ of November, 1884. It was contributed by Mr. C. N.
Williamson; other parts of this article dealing with Cumberland
climbing have already been referred to.
HIGH STILE.--The north side of this mountain is precipitous, and
two or three short but interesting gullies can be followed up to the
ridge. Two of them can easily be recognised from Buttermere village.
The central gully faces towards the north-west and is to the right of
the highest point on the mountain. It has two well-defined pitches, the
second being very severe. The writer climbed it in 1893 with Mr. John
Robinson, before taking the chimney described in the next paragraph,
but seemingly it has rarely been visited since.
To the left of the central gully a wide black chimney can be seen,
leading up close to the summit of High Stile. It offers a short but
very difficult scramble; in pulling up over the edge of the great pitch
care must be taken to avoid the loose stones. In the first ascent the
leader had a bad encounter with three boulders that slipped over on to
his head.
A long, easy gully in the north-east shoulder of the mountain offers a
pleasant route down from the summit to the shores of Buttermere.
BUCKBARROW.--The side of this hill facing Wastwater has sundry
attractions. Climbers who are not pressed for time, on their way
from Wastdale to the nearest stations on the Furness Railway, can be
recommended to visit the crag.
The first main gully at the northern end was climbed at Easter, 1892;
two short parallel chimneys terminate the ascent, that on the left
being supposed to be the harder. Besides this route, there are a few
ways of tackling the face further to the west; but details are not at
hand by reason of the rarity of the visits to Buckbarrow.
SERGEANT CRAG CHIMNEY.--This was first ascended by Mr. John
Robinson and the writer in September, 1893. The crag itself is reached
by walking up Langstrath from the village of Rosthwaite for about a
mile and then bearing to the left. Close to the stream, at the point
where we leave the track, is the Gash Rock, an isolated boulder that
offers considerable resistance to any one attempting to climb it. It
was climbed first by the writer in 1893. A good hold has recently been
cleared at the critical point on the boulder. The scramble is said to
be quite easy now.
The gully in the crag is in sight half-a-mile below the Gash Rock, and
is well worth the visit of a strong party. It was noticed in 1886 by
Mr. Haskett Smith, but seven years elapsed before the first ascent was
made. Curiously enough, the second ascent was effected a day or two
later by Messrs. Phillimore and Anderson, in entire ignorance that the
gully had so recently been overcome.
Information embodied in the following notes of the successive pitches
has been supplied by the brothers Abraham of Keswick, whose interesting
photograph of the great pitch in the middle of the ascent is reproduced
facing page 286.
_First Pitch._--Chock-stone about fifteen feet high, passed to the left
on the face of the rock. Good hand and foot holds.
_Second Pitch._--Small chock-stone. Both hands are reached up to the
top of the stone and a straight pull over effected with the arms. The
obstacle is about nine feet high.
_Third Pitch._--Sundry boulders forming a block, about fifteen feet
high. The right-hand side of the gully is ascended until the leader is
well wedged under the block. Then he can pass out to the left and over
at the top.
_Fourth Pitch._--This is the most severe of the whole set, and the
direct climb up the left wall is probably as stiff a problem as can
be found in the district. Two immense boulders, one over the other,
separated by a gap of four feet, form the roof of a cave. The retaining
walls of the gully form the sides of the cave, and the ascent is to be
effected on the left. From a short distance this appears to be a smooth
vertical slab; even on close inspection the holds it offers appear to
be of the most minute dimensions.
The second man on the rope should mount as high up the interior of the
cave as possible. After climbing under the first boulder the leader
takes a long step out to the left wall, on a sloping ledge. Then using
side holds on the boulder itself, with his feet or knees against the
main wall, he has to work up gradually to a little jammed boulder two
feet above the lower one. This is an extremely fatiguing operation. On
to this block he must lift his knees, and then he can cautiously drag
up so as to stand on it.
The upper boulder is then passed by throwing the left leg across to
a slight foothold, whence a thrust forward of the body is effected
through wet soil and tufted ferns. This is particularly unpleasant
after rainy weather, and is probably at all times somewhat risky. The
height of the pitch is thirty-two feet.
A variation has been found which makes the passage of this obstacle
much more feasible. It leads first downwards to a grassy ledge on the
right, and then up by succeeding shelves until the upper level of the
pitch is reached, when the return traverse back to the bed of the gully
can be easily managed. Hitherto all parties, except the first and third
in the chimney, have preferred to avoid the fourth pitch, and their
preference is most reasonable.
_Fifth Pitch._--This is an easy chimney twenty feet long, lined with
grass and ferns, and marked at the summit by a fallen tree.
_Sixth Pitch._--Two wedged stones one above the other form a pitch
about twenty feet high. The route is first into the cave between the
stones, then up a short chimney and over the upper boulder. The second
on the rope should ascend as high as possible in the cave and, with
splendid anchorage, pay out the leader’s rope carefully. Sundry loose
stones are lodged on the right, and should be left discreetly alone.
_Seventh Pitch._--This is a chimney thirty feet high containing many
loose stones. It is crowned by a chock-stone. The ascent is directly up
the first part, and then over loose and dangerous rock on the right
for another twenty feet.
Steep grass leads out to the top, 500 feet from the base of the cliff.
BLEA CRAGS AND MOUSE GHYLL.--The Blea Crag climbs in Borrowdale
can be reached from Grange in thirty-five minutes; a fine general view
is to be seen from the picturesque bridge spanning the Derwent. There
are three gullies of interest; one to the south is now known as Mouse
Ghyll, climbed and christened in the autumn of 1897, by Mr. W. Cecil
Slingsby’s party; a second less-defined gully leads up the centre of
the crags; and to the north of this a third takes us by loose and
rather unsatisfactory pitches to the summit ridge.
Mouse Ghyll starts very narrow, with smooth walls running up to a great
height on either side. An easy pitch of ten feet brings us to a little
platform, whence a steep, double staircase, with good steps for each
foot, gives safe access to a great cavern sixty feet higher. Here the
real difficulties begin. The pitch is formed by two huge, overhanging
boulders, one above the other, with a grassy ledge between them. The
leader can be well anchored by his party, and makes a start up to the
left from the top of the rib of rock that supplies the ‘staircase.’
It is sensational work up to the grassy ledge, where again the leader
requires anchoring, and perhaps also a helping shoulder for the next
little chimney of some fourteen feet, between the upper boulder and the
left wall. When the first party were here, a startled mouse sprang
from the grassy ledge over the leader’s head, and dropped safely at the
bottom of the staircase ninety feet below. May it live long enough to
learn that the ghyll has been named in its honour!
On emerging from the chimney three routes show themselves. The first is
up two easy pitches that remain in the gully. To the right a chimney
leads by an open buttress to the top of the crags, and can be ascended
without trouble. But on the left a prominent chimney, succeeded by a
narrow crack, gives seventy feet of extremely tough climbing. It was
ascended by Messrs. George and Ashley Abraham, who made the second
ascent of Mouse Ghyll.
The central gully starts with a chimney, best taken on the right, and
continues with short and easy pitches until some large boulders wedged
in a vertical crack offer better fun. There are no further obstacles.
I am indebted to Messrs. George and Ashley Abraham and to Mr. Slingsby
for the information in this section. They assure me that the climbing
in Mouse Ghyll is of a first-rate order, and the scenery of lake and
fellside almost unsurpassable in the country.
APPENDIX.
APPENDIX.
WALKER’S GULLY, PILLAR ROCK.--The Christmas of 1898 at Wastdale
was marked by heavy rain and unseasonable conditions. Several large
parties of climbers had come to the hotel, and, after a day or two of
smoking and grumbling, had departed; until, at the New Year, Mr. Jones
and myself were the only climbers left there. To keep ourselves in
training, we struggled up through the powdery snow of the Central Gully
on Gable Crag, performed many rash feats on the end of the barn and the
billiard-table, besides leaving a considerable quantity of our clothing
on the ‘Mosedale Boulder.’
Early in January we walked over to Keswick; and found, on returning,
that another party had arrived, amongst whom was my friend Mr. A. E.
Field. We greeted him as warmly as we could under such cold conditions;
and when, later in the evening, we disclosed our intention to climb
Walker’s Gully, he was quite ‘keen’ on undertaking the very necessary
duties of ‘third man.’ Our party was now complete; but the heavy
rain-clouds still rolled up from the sea, and the weather continued
persistently bad. We were forced at last to the conclusion that,
if Walker’s Gully had then to be climbed, it would have to be done
regardless of bad weather and personal discomfort.
As a result of this reasoning, the early morning of January 7th, 1899,
saw the three of us trudging patiently up the Black Sail Pass in a
tremendous downpour of rain and sleet; but, notwithstanding this, with
the climber’s cheery optimism, a ‘fair-up’ was confidently prophesied.
As an exception to the general rule, our prophecy was fulfilled; for,
just as we reached the soft snow on Looking Stead, the huge banks of
mist rolled up from both valleys, and far away in the north we saw
‘hoary-headed old Skiddaw’ bathed in sunshine, while a keen dry wind
blew up out of Ennerdale. We trudged along through the snow on the
High Level, and about mid-day were facing the ice-covered slabs and
snow-wreathed ledges on the north-east side of the Pillar Rock. Little
was said as we scrambled to the foot of Walker’s Gully; for each of us
fully recognised what was ahead, and it was better to be silent, than
to utter discouraging remarks.
The rope was put on at the foot of the crags, Field being the ‘anchor’
of the party, whilst I, as usual, was placed next to Jones, to serve
as a special buttress when hand and foot holds should become scarce. A
strong jet of ice-cold water came rushing down over the first pitch,
so that, not wishing to have our enthusiasm cooled so early in the
day, we climbed up the wet, slippery slabs on our left. About fifty
feet higher we had some difficulty in a shallow sloping chimney, down
which a mud avalanche seemed to have fallen quite recently, and here
our leader remarked ‘we ought to have been equipped with mud-guards.’
We were soon facing the main gully, with its tremendous chock-stones
rising one above the other, over which streamed large quantities of
water, suggesting a somewhat too rapid cleansing of our mud-stained
garments. We entered the chimney and found it just wide enough to
back up, with both feet on the right-hand wall; the falling ice-chips
apprising us of the fact that hard work was in progress higher up.
We climbed very rapidly for about fifty feet, close together, until
almost within touch of the uninviting stream of water falling over the
first jammed boulder, which was now just above our heads. Knowing this
to be one of the most difficult pitches in the lower part of the climb,
a short ‘council of war’ was held, for all seemed desirous of avoiding
a cold bath as long as possible. Then, screwing up his courage, Jones
made a bold dash through the waterfall to the back of the cave. Knowing
his objection to monopolising pleasures of this kind, we followed him,
and were soon all gasping and shivering below the jammed boulder. After
further consideration and experiment, the only safe course, apparently,
was for me to stand under the waterfall and give the leader a shoulder
over the _mauvais pas_. As our ablutions seemed likely now to be very
thorough, we ate our lunch and watched, for a time, the falling water,
which, in my opinion, to some extent spoilt the view. The discomfort of
our position, however, soon impressed upon us the necessity of moving.
Field therefore held me firmly from the back of the cave, whilst I
stood under the shower-bath; and Jones mounted on my shoulders, from
whence he reached a hold on the top of the boulder, over which he
pulled himself with an exclamation of delight. I then retired to the
cave with considerable alacrity. Sounds from above warned us that the
leader was scarcely yet secure, so we steadily paid out about forty
feet of his rope, until he reached safe anchorage at the top of the
three boulders forming the pitch. In following we wasted very little
time under the waterfall, and soon joined Jones on a little snow-patch,
from which we could study the situation. A hundred feet or so higher,
and apparently overhanging our present position, was the top jammed
boulder. Evidence was not wanting, however, to show us that we were not
safe from falling objects; for, stuck in a curiously upright position
in the snow in front of us, were three walking-sticks, with two pairs
of torn gloves and some much-worn socks lying by their side. We thought
at first a party of tourists had somehow reached here and forgotten
their ‘impedimenta;’ but our leader remembered that some friends,
having climbed the Pillar Rock at Christmas, had thrown their sticks
and luggage down into Jordan Gap before descending themselves. The snow
proved harder than they thought, their property making an unexpected
descent into Walker’s Gully, and here were we confronted with the
opportunity of acting as a rescue party; but, not thirsting for fame,
we decided to leave the relics undisturbed.
Jones now led us up several small, wet pitches, until we came to a
sudden stop in a great cave, where there was no apparent way out,
except through a very small hole high up in its roof; an outside route
being practically impossible on account of the accumulation of ice on
both walls. Jones remarked that he was not going ‘to emulate the camel
that failed to go through the eye of a needle;’ so, to reduce his bulk
as far as possible, he emptied his pockets and left his wet jacket for
Field to sit upon. No holds on the side of the cave were available, so
the leader climbed upon my shoulders, but he could barely reach his
arms through the hole. Field, meanwhile, was smoking and making the
most of his comfortable position. With somewhat insincere apologies, we
called on him to form an additional buttress, and, from his shoulders,
I was able to force the leader through the hole, amidst the sound of
tearing clothes and muffled remonstrances from their owner.
I shall not readily forget my own sufferings in that hole. The first
attempt, from Field’s shoulders, was a complete failure, because the
upper part of my body absolutely refused to fit the shape of the hole.
After several fruitless efforts and much wasted energy, I happened
to look up and saw Jones smiling down at me. “That is not right. Go
down and have another try,” said he. He then loosed the rope rather
suddenly, whereupon I made an unexpected descent upon Field, who was
standing below enjoying my troubles; and there was much confusion in
the cave. After extricating ourselves, Field again kindly placed his
shoulders at my service, but from a somewhat higher level than before,
and this, with the aid of his ice-axe applied from below, ultimately
landed me at the top of the hole feeling very roughly handled. Field
then sent up our jackets, and, after the hole had been slightly
enlarged by removing some loose rocks, he came up himself in good style.
We were now at the foot of the formidable top-pitch, which had never
been climbed. A sudden seriousness settled on us all as we looked up
at it, and remembered that this pitch had defied some of the finest
cragsmen of our time. The walls on both sides were perpendicular,
and the rounded appearance of the rocks suggested an unusual absence
of hand and foot holds, whilst the presence of ice in several places
caused us much uneasiness. There were three large flat chock-stones
piled irregularly right across the chasm. Towards the upper one, which
overhung considerably, the two walls converged so much that it seemed
possible to ‘back up’ the last part of the climb, if the leader could
only reach it safely. The only other alternative would be to climb up
on the right wall, close under the lower chock-stone, and traverse
outwards and upwards until suitable holds could be found. A troublesome
sleet was beginning to fall; so that we were glad to climb into the
cave directly beneath the chock-stones. A firm ‘hitch’ was discovered
in the back of the cave, by which Field could anchor us; and he settled
himself in a wet corner where his attention was occupied in dodging the
drops of falling water and directing our movements.
Our first efforts were on the left wall; and by means of an ice-axe
fixed in a narrow corner, Jones skilfully and safely wedged himself in
a crack which led almost to the top of the first boulder. However, for
the next half-hour his attempts to make further progress were in vain,
for a hand could not be spared to chip the ice off the rocks; and it
was found necessary to abandon this left wall and to try the opposite
one, which now occupied our attention for some time. Jones made several
attempts from a shoulder to effect a lodgment below the chock-stone.
Then, whilst enjoying a well-earned rest, we espied a small rock,
wedged high up in the crack between the main wall and the roof of the
cave. That small rock proved to be the key of the situation, for, after
probably the finest piece of climbing I have ever witnessed, a rope was
passed through the hole behind it, and we were in a position to attempt
the climb safely. We were all suffering acutely from cold, especially
Field, on account of his inaction, though he declared that the
excitement of our movements kept him warm. Notwithstanding this, our
leader, taking off his boots and jacket, prepared for a long struggle
on that icy wall, whilst I padded my head to gain an inch or two in
height. Jones now swung up as high as possible on the hitched rope;
then, while standing on my head, he found a very small hold for one of
his toes, and after ascending a few feet was hidden from our sight by
the intervening chock-stone. The next few minutes were anxious ones;
we shivered with cold, and held the rope firmly in case there should
be a mishap higher up. Almost immediately there was a rush of falling
snow far out over the pitch, and it scarcely needed our leader’s jödel
of success to assure us that at last Walker’s Gully had yielded to the
onslaught of the climber.
We pushed the leader’s boots into his jacket pockets and sent up all
our ‘luggage.’ Owing to the half-frozen condition of our fingers, tying
the various things on the rope took so long a time, that we called
forth an impatient exclamation from above. Eventually we, in turn,
landed safely at the top, after swinging ignominiously on the rope,
in much the same way as our ‘luggage’ had done. However, the great
hitherto unclimbed pitch of Walker’s Gully was below us, and there
followed the usual congratulations. Our progress up from the screes had
been slow, something like three hours, but much time had been spent in
reconnoitring under extremely bad conditions.
The situation was still rather serious, for we were perched on a narrow
snow-ledge on the very brink of the upper chock-stone; and the three
of us were almost in a state of collapse from cold and the saturated
state of our clothes. The forced inaction of the leader, whilst we were
finishing the climb, had made him so benumbed as to be almost helpless,
and he was sitting with his feet in the wet snow, ineffectually trying
to put on his boots. We had carefully kept some stockings and gloves
dry in the rücksack; but the opening of the sack with half-frozen
fingers proved unfortunate, for its contents escaped, and, with the
other relics which had come down through Jordan Gap, now adorned the
snow-patch far below. It was then agreed that this narrow, exposed
ledge was, under the circumstances, not a suitable dressing room;
so we gathered up our belongings, including our leader’s boots, and
carefully ascended the snow until we came to a safe resting place. Here
we resorted to the usual means of thawing ourselves, and our leader’s
boots were restored to their appointed places.
The race up the steep snow seemed to revive our spirits, and, by the
time the dry rocks below Great Doup were reached, our sufferings gave
way to the glow of success. One little excitement was still in store
for us, for Jones told us that he was threatened with frost-bite in
both feet. On removing his boots we found that his statement was true,
so we rubbed his feet with soft snow, and, before putting on his boots,
the troublesome feet were placed as far as possible in the pockets
of the warmest member of the party, until circulation was thoroughly
restored.
Night was drawing on apace; so we bade farewell to our ‘vanquished
foe,’ and were soon scampering along the High Level, bound for the
well-earned comforts of Wastdale.
IRON CRAG CHIMNEY.--Towards the head of the Shoulthwaite Valley,
which is 3-1/2 miles from Keswick, near the road to Ambleside, may be
seen high up on the right-hand side, a magnificent couloir. It runs up
the south side of one of the steepest faces of rock in the district,
and is called, after the rock, Iron Crag Chimney. We had passed in
sight of the Crag scores of times, but the chimney is so cunningly
hidden away on the far side from the road, that it was not until Mr.
J. W. Robinson told us of it, that we dreamt of there being anything
worth climbing there. He and my brother went to prospect it in March,
1896, but found it in such a very bad condition, that after climbing
the comparatively easy first pitch, they were forced to beat a retreat.
They came back, however, with a glowing account of the second pitch,
and spoke very excitedly about ‘“a thing” at least 100 feet high, wet,
mossy, and with an overhanging stone half-way up, from which the water
dropped out four yards into the bed of the gully, 40 feet below.’ They
thought, however, that a small ledge, up to which they had climbed,
would continue far enough along the left wall of the gully to enable
them to traverse well out from under the stone, and so reach the top
of it. Of the nature of the climbing above that they knew nothing, but
were both anxious to try it and confident of success.
Continued bad weather hindered another attempt until June of the same
year, when Mr. F. W. Jackson and I joined the other two and we set out
to attack this formidable ‘hundred-footer.’ The day was fine and the
rocks in perfect condition, and we succeeded in climbing the chimney
throughout. I intend to give more detail of the second ascent; but it
may be as well to mention here that the second pitch only yielded after
several attempts, by more than one member of the party, and only with
the aid of a shoulder, given from the little ledge, was the leader able
to climb to the top of the ‘chock-stone.’ After this another thirty
feet of chimney brought us to the top of the pitch, and great were the
rejoicings that we had, after a very severe struggle, mastered it. I
shall never forget how white the face of one member of the party was
when it appeared over the top of the pitch, how he yelled to us to
‘haul in the taut,’ how he ‘quoth “nevermore,”’ and how impolitely
he spoke to the leader for having climbed it at all. Altogether this
second pitch gave us a good deal of trouble, but the top part of the
chimney, though very rotten and steep, and liable to come away in small
quantities, was climbed with comparative ease.
After this, except some exploration of the Crags by Mr. H. W. Blunt, it
was not visited again by climbers until the New Year of 1899, when Mr.
O. G. Jones, with my father, my brother, and myself, found ourselves
standing at the bottom of the first pitch. We had expatiated on the
difficulty of the second pitch, and Jones was very keen on trying it,
having, in fact, come over from Wastdale with us for that purpose. _En
route_ to Iron Crag we had climbed a gully on the west side of the
_massif_, which consisted of a series of very interesting chimneys,
the pleasures of which were greatly enhanced by magnificent views of
Derwentwater. This had made us somewhat later than we anticipated,
and an animated discussion was held at the bottom as to whether,
considering the lateness of the hour and the bad condition of the
gully, which was streaming with water, it would not be advisable for
two of the party to stay below or go round and join the others at
the top. This was decided against; ‘all or none,’ said Jones, so we
roped up with him leading. He soon reached the small ledge under the
stone, and then stopped to take breath and prospect. ‘Shall I come up
to you?’ shouted my brother. ‘No thanks! I’ll have a try from here
alone, and you would get wet through in no time up here,’ returned he.
This consideration for my brother was utterly unlike him, for, amongst
other similar occasions, I well remember one on which, in a gully--or
rather waterfall--in Wales, he got wet through on the first pitch,
and insisted on our finishing with him all the eight pitches. His
look of glee when we emerged from the top of each pitch with the water
running down us was a thing to be remembered. However, to return, he
jammed his left foot against the left wall of the gully and pressed
his back against the other, and almost before we had time to see what
had happened, was smiling down on us from the top of the pitch. It was
very disgusting to see him just ‘romp’ up the place we had found so
difficult the year before, and when I had climbed up to him he smiled
sardonically and said, ‘Is that your pitch? Well, really----!’ A small
handhold had weathered away since the time of the first ascent, which
somewhat simplified the passing over the ‘chock-stone,’ but even now I
think most people would find it difficult. We could only apologise and
feel small, but, had we known it, there was a surfeit of excitement and
difficulty in store for us higher up.
The pitch we had just climbed was composed of most excellent rock, but
up above, where we now were, everything was changed, and the upper
rocks, which had been rotten enough before, were now, as a result of
the heavy rain, of the worst description imaginable. Great pieces as
large as one’s head came away at once, and every step had to be most
carefully tested before we could proceed. Now was the time for us to
appreciate our leader, for a less careful man would have ‘pounded’ us
severely before we had made any progress worth mentioning. As it was,
several big pieces had to be removed, and some came whizzing past in
much too close proximity to be pleasant.
After the second pitch the chimney continues straight up and is fairly
wide for two hundred feet or so; but there is no good anchorage until
the level skyline is reached. Towards the top it narrows down to a
thin, rotten and very steep crack. By slow and very careful progress
we reached this crack, which had been climbed straight up on the first
ascent; but after Jones had tried it a few times he evidently thought
it hopeless, for he shouted down to us, ‘It won’t go to-day. The rain
has made everything too rotten. We shall have to go back.’ It was four
o’clock, raining heavily and nearly dark, and to go back meant in all
probability sleeping on the top of the second pitch, an idea which
none of us relished. So my brother climbed up to Jones and, after
consulting for a while, they decided to climb out of the crack on the
right-hand side. To do this a shoulder would have to be given, from a
small shelving ledge, to enable the leader to reach the firmer and less
steep rock up above. This was the most obvious route of ascent, but the
ledge looked very unstable and rotten, and vibrated a little on being
tested. However, Jones thought it might hold if stepped on in the right
way; so my brother climbed up on to it and Jones followed. By utilising
the side of the crack, they were able to put very little pressure on
the ledge; Jones climbed on to his companion’s shoulders, and, when he
had cleared away a few of the loose rocks, was, after an anxious moment
or two, able to draw himself up on to the skyline and disappear from
our sight. After a few seconds he gave a cheer and called to my brother
to follow him. This he had just begun to do and had left the ledge
about five feet, when I heard a dull ominous crack, and, on looking up,
saw the whole thing coming down. There was no time to do anything but
squeeze into the chimney and warn my father. I succeeded in getting
far enough inside to escape serious damage, but the heel of my left
boot, which projected a little, was torn entirely away. My father’s
escape was more marvellous, for it seemed that nothing could save him;
but on looking down I saw the great rock strike a projecting piece of
the chimney only a few inches above his head, and spread out like a
fan into a thousand splinters which shot far out into the air, falling
again near the foot of the chimney; and thus we escaped with only a
few slight bruises. One shudders to think what would have happened
if the ledge had fallen when Jones and my brother were on it. It may
be of interest to say here that during the whole of our climbs with
Jones, this was the only approach to an accident we had, and under his
leadership the possibility of anything going wrong seemed, and always
was, very remote indeed.
After this we were not long in joining the other two at the top. By
this time it was nearly dark and still raining heavily, and on the
crest of the chimney we were faced by a bitterly cold wind. Jones,
who had been exposed to this during the time we were ascending, was
shaking with cold, and he shouted through the storm--‘Hurry up! Coil
the rope and then we’ll do a sprint.’ On looking round we found that he
had gone. We finished coiling the rope and hurried up to where he had
been, but could not see him anywhere. We shouted again and again, but
got no answer. After peering about and shouting several times we came
to a standstill. ‘Is he subject to fits?’ inquired my father in a most
doleful tone of voice. We had never heard of anything of the sort, so
set off down the side of the crags in the hope of finding him awaiting
us below. A miserable hour was spent in walking about the bottom of
the crags calling his name; but the whistling of the wind in the rocks
above, and the swishing of the rain were the only answers we got; so we
set off down the fell-side, and, after floundering about in the dark,
over the stone-walls and through the river, we found ourselves at last
on the main road to Keswick. We were very anxious to know what had
become of Jones, so hastened home, where we found him, ‘dressed up in
all his best,’ toasting his feet in front of a comfortable fire. ‘Where
have you been?’ ‘Dinner has been waiting an hour,’ and so on, were the
thanks we got for our weary hunt among the crags for him, and the query
of my father’s about his taking ‘fits’ became one of his favourite
jokes. After proposing the ‘sprint’ to us he had run round a projecting
shoulder of rock to leeward, and started off to Keswick over the moor,
by the route we had taken earlier in the day. We had expected him to go
down to the Shoulthwaite Valley, and in this way had missed him.
So finished one of the most exciting days we ever spent with Owen
Glynne Jones; and its events are indelibly stamped on my memory. But,
full of incident as the day had been, my pleasantest recollection is
of the evening that followed; when, by the fire and over our pipes,
we fought old battles over again, recalling to life happy days and
exciting moments on the fells, ending with the songs and glees Jones
loved so well to sing, and across the space of years, taking us back
into the ‘dear, dead days,’ will come into our ‘mind’s eye’ the picture
of him kneeling by the piano, singing with the keen enthusiasm which
characterized everything he did, his favourite hymn--
Lead, kindly Light, amid the encircling gloom,
...
O’er moor and fen, o’er crag and torrent,
Till the night is gone.
ENGINEERS’ CHIMNEY, GABLE CRAG.--This new and interesting climb
is situated about midway between the Oblique Chimney and the Central
Gully. The beginning of it lies at nearly the same level as that
of the Oblique Chimney, and can be reached by traversing some easy
ledges from the ‘Sheep Walk,’ or by ascending directly from the foot
of the Crags. Although the chimney was well known to many climbers,
its ascent had, curiously enough, not been seriously attempted until
July 30th, 1899, when Messrs. G. T. Glover and W. N. Ling made the
first ascent. Since then it has been ascended on two other occasions,
and it seems likely to become as popular as any of the Gable Crag
climbs. The scenery is magnificent and the climbing throughout of a
most interesting character, and in the centre of the lower part of the
chimney a loosely wedged stone adds an element of risk and difficulty,
which is absent from the other chimneys on this face. About eight feet
from its commencement the chimney divides into two branches, but the
route lies up the left-hand one. A good resting place for the second
man is to be obtained in the right-hand branch, and he ought to stay
here while the leader is negotiating the very difficult passage over
the chock-stone. In all the ascents so far it has been found advisable
to pass a rope behind and over this stone, to improvise a handhold, and
even then this ten feet or so will be found quite difficult enough for
most people. After this, another twenty-five feet of careful climbing
brings one to a broad, sloping ledge where a rest can be taken. From
here two routes are available. One is to keep to the chimney, which
continues straight upward for about forty feet, and the other is to
traverse out round the left-hand buttress for a few feet and then bear
upwards, joining the ‘Sheep Walk’ near the top of the Crags. The
former of these involves about twenty feet of fairly easy climbing,
until the small cave, roofed over with the stone which dominates the
chimney, is reached. From this cave the easiest method of ascent is to
utilise a thin crack in the left wall into which some small stones are
firmly jammed and which may be reached by wedging across the chimney
and traversing outwards, a slight projecting ledge affording some help
in the process. The ‘take-off’ into the crack is somewhat delicate
and decidedly sensational on account of the scanty foothold, but once
gained ten to twelve feet of further climbing practically finishes the
chimney. The traverse route round the buttress is much easier, but it
entirely evades the most sensational part of the climb.
WEST WALL CLIMB, DEEP GHYLL.--For climbers of Deep Ghyll who
ascend the second pitch by the right-hand exit, this new route is
probably the best way out of the Ghyll. After thus passing the second
pitch, the West Wall Climb starts from a point about twenty-six yards
below the entrance to the Great Chimney. By climbing over two small
ledges and up a conspicuous thirty-feet chimney, a broad ledge is
reached, where further direct progress is not advisable.
The best way lies around a corner to the right and up a series of
easy ledges, working gradually back again to above the commencement
of the climb. About half-way up ‘The Wall’ an undercut pinnacle is
reached and ascended on the left before a lodgment can be effected on
its outside edge, and some enjoyable work follows until a spacious
ledge on the right can be utilised. When Messrs. J. W. Robinson, J. H.
Doncaster, and H. W. Blunt first made the ascent, in the September of
1898, this portion of the climb was considered difficult, and it is
probably the only part where special care is necessary. Above this the
climbing can be varied considerably, but the direct ascent of a rock
ridge, straight ahead, is to be recommended. The course throughout is
well within the powers of most climbing parties, and the magnificent
views of Scawfell Pinnacle and Deep Ghyll add additional interest to
the ascent.
We are indebted to two friends for the notes on the following
climbs:--To Mr. G. T. Glover for those on the Ling Chimney, and to Mr.
W. R. Reade for those on the West Jordan Gully.
THE LING CHIMNEY, EAGLE’S NEST ARÊTE.--In the first edition
of his book Mr. O. G. Jones mentions that there are two chimneys on
the left-hand side of the Eagle’s Nest Arête, ‘the right of these
is shallow and open ... whether it can be climbed or not I have
never ascertained.’ On October 15th, 1899, Messrs. W. N. Ling, C.
E. Martineau and G. T. Glover made the first recorded ascent of it,
after a preliminary exploration from above. From the top of the small
grass gully which commences the _arête_ climb, one traverses about ten
feet across some rock to the left, being then in a direct line below
the final chimney. Going straight upwards, by steep rock steps, an
upright slab is swarmed up with the hands and feet on each side, until
a platform is reached, on which the second man can join the leader.
About fifteen feet above this is another platform at the foot of a
narrow chimney which needs careful climbing for about ten feet, until a
foothold can be utilised on the sharp edge of the left wall.
From here some stiff pulls on the arms land one out either on a broad
ledge above the easy gully route, or up a continuation of the chimney
to the right-hand side of the narrow pinnacle at the finish of the true
_arête_ climb. The ascent, as a whole, requires more care than the
gully route.
THE WEST JORDAN GULLY, PILLAR ROCK.--This deeply cut gully,
or, more correctly speaking, chimney, is a striking feature of the
Western face of the Pillar Rock, and, together with the East Jordan
Gully, the head of which it meets at Jordan Gap, cuts off the actual
Pillar Rock from Pisgah. Probably many climbers have examined the West
Jordan Gully, but it does not appear to have been seriously attacked
before July, 1898, when Mr. W. P. McCulloch and the writer climbed it.
Walking up the bed of the gully we passed a tempting looking crack on
the North wall which ends in a small cave; above this cave the gully
is ‘chocked’ by several overhanging stones which from below seem very
formidable obstacles. We, however, avoided the crack and, mounting a
series of jammed stones, reached the innermost recesses of the chimney.
We were now almost on a level with the top of the crack, and, the gully
being here narrow enough to brace firmly across, we backed upwards
and outwards for about fifteen feet, reaching the cave without great
exertion. So far we had done well, but still the great jammed stones,
round which we had to pass, loomed black overhead. Holds for the
traverse outward looked anything but satisfactory, so Mr. McCulloch,
after passing the rope round a conveniently placed jammed stone,
climbed on to my shoulders and, with considerable difficulty, dragged
himself into a small cave about fifteen feet above. As this cave would
only accommodate one man, I climbed to Mr. McCulloch’s level, with a
little assistance from the rope, and took the lead. Traversing outwards
for about fifteen feet, I climbed a sensational forty-feet chimney,
which we had surveyed from above several days previously, and landed
safely in the bed of the gully past all difficulties. The height of the
whole pitch is slightly under 100 feet, and, from beginning to end, the
climbing is of a most interesting character. The second ascent was made
by the brothers Broadrick, in August of the same year, but there is no
record of it having been climbed since.
APPENDIX II
CHAPTER I
_THE PILLAR ROCK AND ITS PURLIEUS UP TO DATE_
In conformity with its deserts as the grandest mass of crags in
Lakeland, the Pillar Rock has, of recent years, received most attention
from those in search of new routes and variations. So numerous and
intertwined are some of the latter that it would be difficult to say by
how many different ways the top of the famous rock can now be attained.
There are certainly a score that possess the merit of individuality.
However, though there is one important exception, that of the New West
Climb, the old routes still monopolise the bulk of the traffic. With
the development of the craft of rock-climbing the once popular, easy
routes, such as the Old West Climb or the Pendlebury Traverse, have
become less used than formerly. For a moderate party with an expert
leader the North Climb is now the favourite course, though the ‘New
West’ has become recognised as the finer climb. This recognition will,
probably, in due course make the latter outrival in popularity its
older compeer. But the ‘Slab and Notch,’ with the finish up the left
wall of the Great Chimney, still takes most Pillarites to the goal of
their ambition. In the other extreme stands the New North West Climb,
and fortunately so. It is too difficult and dangerous to attract those
climbers who truly realise that they have a life to lose. Famous
experts--one of whom made the descent alone--declare the New North West
Climb to be unjustifiable. For the descent of the Rock, especially
after reaching the top by one of the longer climbs, the Central Jordan
Crack is most generally used. Even under the worst conditions of storm,
ice, or snow a rope looped around the top retaining wall of the crack
allows downward escape to be made with comparative ease and safety.
[Illustration: THE PILLAR ROCK FROM THE WEST SIDE
A The Low Man.
B The High Man.
C Pisgah.
D The top of Easy Scree Gully.
PP New Pisgah Routes.
_aa_ The original old West Route.
_bb_ The New West Climb.
_dd_ The West Jordan Gully leading up to Jordan Gap.
_ee_ Screes bounding the base of Pisgah.
_ff_ Scree-slopes leading down to the Waterfall.
_s_ The Slingsby Crack. Old West Climb Variation.]
THE NEW WEST CLIMB.--Taken chronologically in this section,
if for no other reason, this course demands first attention. Its
outstanding features are sound, clean rocks, sensational situations
with magnificent views, and secure belays at each section where they
are really required. The climbing begins about 20 yards down the screes
from the foot of the West Jordan Gully; the exact point is just below
some large boulders which abut against the base of the main rock. Large
hand- and footholds enable the steep lower rocks to be easily climbed,
though at one point, about 60 feet above the start, there is a smooth
place that gives trouble when ice is present. About 20 feet higher, a
well-marked ledge leads to the right and out of the groove up which
the climb has thus far run. Some turfy ledges then soon conduct the
climber up to an impending nose of rock. After struggling up a short,
steep pitch in the base of this, it becomes obvious that a traverse to
the left is advisable. The place is vertical, but bulky and numerous
holds enable the passage to be made in comfort. The traverse finishes
abruptly on a steep buttress, with turf ledges at its foot. On the
right a convenient crack provides means of upward progress for about
30 feet; then an all too short scramble up a steep arête gives access
to two small ledges with accommodation for one climber only on each.
The rocks directly ahead overhang threateningly, and a traverse to the
left into the base of a steep chimney--the key to the climb--becomes
advisable. This movement is sensational, but the handholds nowadays are
ample for the swing across. Yet it is advisable to take the precaution
to hitch the rope over the splendid belay at the beginning of the
traverse, especially if the conditions are adverse. Once across this
section, a large chock-stone in the foot of the chimney can be utilised
as anchorage whilst the leader moves upwards. The upper part of this
30 foot chimney is probably the most awkward part of the whole climb.
If the back be kept on the left wall throughout, numerous small, but
sufficient, excrescences can be found on the confronting side of the
chimney. It would seem advisable to keep as much as possible in the
narrow cleft.
A secure resting-place, with room for three or more climbers,
is shortly gained, and the chimney, which becomes loose and
repulsive-looking higher up, should now be deserted in favour of an
interesting traverse to the right. The passage around the vertical
corner is impressive, but careful use of the feet prevents the
awkward attitudes so often seen here. The movement across the face
to the right is still continued over capacious ledges in a slightly
upward direction to some prominent shattered rocks. Good anchorage is
available here. The final section begins above the shattered rocks, and
lies up a small, shallow crack which closes in about 15 feet higher
and necessitates a delicate step across a smooth slab on the right.
A well-marked, grassy recess is thus eventually gained. The ascent
finishes up this, and emerges within a few feet of the summit of the
Pillar Rock.
SAVAGE GULLY.--The direct ascent of this great rift, the aspect
of which is familiar to all who visit the Rock by way of the North
Climb, is too risky and dangerous to deserve serious attention from
rock-climbers. Yet from a historical and topographical point of view
the description of the first ascent by Mr. P. A. Thompson may prove of
interest. Though this indefatigable pioneer was finally safeguarded by
tying on a rope lowered from near the ‘Nose,’ the party who made the
second ascent--Messrs. Barton--conceded the honour of precedence to
Mr. Thompson, saying that the rope thus held could not be considered
any aid. On the lower 110 feet, resting-places have since been found,
and at no point is it necessary for the leader to take out more than 60
feet of rope. Under the date June 3, 1909, Mr. Thompson wrote:--
‘Savage Gully was climbed right through by me to-day after I had
examined the route, held from the top of the Nose by Mr. L. J.
Oppenheimer. The almost vertical portion immediately beyond the point
where the ordinary North Climb diverges is by far the hardest part
of the climb. The leader must run out 110 feet of rope, and there
are no hitches or convenient resting-places on the way. The gully is
divided by a narrow rib of rock, between which and the right-hand wall
the climb starts. The first 25 feet present no great difficulty, but
beyond this point the climbing becomes severe. Backing up does not
appear to be possible, and the holds lie sometimes on the right and
sometimes on the left of the rib, which was crossed in all five times.
These crossings were always sensational, and, one from right to left,
about half-way up, was greasy. At the top of the pitch a platform was
reached, and an excellent holding ground found in a small cave between
the continuation of the rib and the left-hand wall of the gully. Here I
sent my boots down, and unroping, waited while Mr. Oppenheimer climbed
by the ordinary route to the top of the crack leading down into Savage
Gully, from which point he threw down a rope. With a second man in the
cave to give a shoulder the best route would probably lie directly up
the crack on the left of the rib, but this was too difficult to try
alone. On the right the gully was comparatively easy for some distance,
and climbing up for 30 feet I reached the rope and tied on. This branch
of the gully then became too steep and narrow to follow, and another
traverse had to be made across the rib, here expanded to a considerable
buttress, on a shelving ledge, wide enough to kneel on, and with small
handholds. This traverse is the only serious difficulty in the upper
part of the climb. The moral support of the rope was inconsiderable, as
10 feet of slack had to be taken in before the traverse could be made.
On reaching the left-hand branch of the gully 30 feet more of climbing
up slabs which, in stockinged feet, proved easy led to the foot of the
crack. The final steep little chimney was wet, but otherwise not very
difficult. Mr. Oppenheimer came up over the Nose, rejoining me in two
hours after the start from the foot of the gully.’
THE NEW NORTH WEST CLIMB.--This exceptionally severe course
was first climbed on the 8th of June 1906 by Messrs. F. W. Botterill,
L. J. Oppenheimer, A. Botterill, and Dr. J. H. Taylor. It is only
suitable for experts, who, moreover, would be well advised to come to
it in perfect form after a lengthy climbing holiday. Success depends
on the skill of the leader. He can receive scanty support from his
companions at the places where such aid is really required. Absence of
a dependable belay for the long lead up the difficult upper section of
the face militates against any claim for safety the expedition may be
said to possess.
The course starts from the westerly end of the Green Ledge. This is
marked _g_ on Mr. Jones’ line drawing facing p. 254. By a curious error
he named it the Nose. The rocks are comparatively easy at the outset;
some short chimneys lead up to a sloping slab, where a traverse to the
left is made into a more obvious chimney. This gives about 45 feet of
interesting back and knee work until it is possible to work out to
the right, and then up easy rocks to the crest of the buttress, where
stands a prominent cairn. Broad, grass-covered slabs lead to the base
of the nose of the Low Man, where the real difficulties begin.
The route at first bears away to the west up some slabs, and then
returns around a corner to a good ledge several yards long, whereon
stands a prominent cairn. Anchorage is available at this point. The
ledge is traversed to its extreme easterly end, and, after rounding
a projecting rock, an ascent of about 10 feet allows a V
shaped recess to be gained. This has been called ‘Le Coin.’ Above
this important stance there are three distinct ledges to be gained.
The first of these entails about 15 feet of difficult ascent from
‘Le Coin’; probably the best way lies up the right wall. The first
ledge possesses a sound belay, and the second is recognizable by a
larger belay, which is cracked, but safe at present. A party of three
might foregather here. An ascent of quite 35 feet then leads to a
‘triangular’ ledge, possessing practically no dependable belay. The key
to further progress here is the negotiation of a sensational stride
around a corner to the left and thus into an open, exposed chimney
nearly 50 feet high. Above this there is a difficult and risky traverse
back to the right, mostly on a small, grassy ledge. A broad recess
slightly higher soon gives ample resting space. From the second ledge
above ‘Le Coin,’ whereon stands the ‘cracked belay,’ to this point
entails a lead out for the first man of about 90 feet. The difficulty
and danger of this section will undoubtedly militate against the
North-West Climb ever becoming ‘an easy day for a lady.’ The ascent to
the crest of the Low Man is made up a conspicuous cleft, Oppenheimer’s
chimney, which is reached after crossing some broken rocks to the
right. Two projecting chock-stones facilitate the ascent.
[Illustration:
G. P. Abraham & Sons, Photos. Keswick
“OVER THE NOSE”--THE PILLAR ROCK]
THE HIGH MAN FROM ABOVE THE NOSE ON THE NORTH CLIMB.--This
ascent can be made in several different ways, some of which were made
in the earlier days, but, like many variations on the Pillar Rock,
never recorded by the pioneers. Yet Stony Gully, which gives the
usual route from the Nose up to the Low Man, is best avoided should
the climbers find themselves ‘under fire’ from another party who have
thoughtlessly gone on in advance. There have been several narrow
escapes from falling stones hereabouts. At such times knowledge of the
alternative ways up the High Man may be useful. After surmounting the
Nose, Stony Gully should be crossed and left immediately. Easy grass
and rock ledges then afford rapid upward progress to be made to the
base of the steep rocks of the High Man. All the way up the sharp,
rocky, north-east arête of the peak is conspicuous overhead, and the
point to aim for is a deeply cut chimney somewhat to the left of a line
directly below the summit of the arête. This chimney was climbed some
years ago; its recesses are narrow and steep below, but higher up there
is a broad ledge on the right, whence the pull over the dominating
chock-stone can be taken. The climber emerges on the great, sloping
slabs which slant down the upper right-hand wall of the Great Chimney.
They are an unmistakable feature in the view of the east side of the
rock from the Shamrock. The slabs may be crossed more easily than
their appearance would indicate, and thus the usual upper section of
the Great Chimney entered on a level with the ledge leading around and
below the Notch.
On the other hand, these slabs can be avoided by climbing upwards to
the right to a broad ledge and then around the prominent perpendicular
nose of the High Man to join the easy, ordinary route from the Low
Man. There is yet another way to the top of the Rock, which was used
by Mr. Botterill’s party in 1909. This runs almost directly up the
nose of the High Man from the broad ledge previously mentioned. The
place is steep and sensational enough to warn off novices, but the
rock is firm and yields sufficient hand and footholds, though these
are awkwardly spaced. The same party reached this nose from below by
climbing up the outer right-hand wall of the chimney first mentioned.
This is probably the easier of the two routes, for the rock is deeply
split into convenient clefts for hands and feet. Incidentally it might
be mentioned that those ascending the Rock by the Old Wall Route, from
near the top of Walker’s Gully, pass below these more difficult climbs
and take a slanting course up to a small square-looking chimney, above
which the usual way from the Low Man is gained. This was one of the
earliest ways up the Pillar Rock, and the ascent involves less real
hand and footwork than any other route.
THE CURTAIN AND ARÊTE.--This forms the left-hand wall of the
Great Chimney, and may be climbed from bottom to top. At the beginning
there is a variation which slants up to the crest of the Curtain
from a point a few feet below the beginning of the fine pitch in the
Great Chimney. A still more interesting method of attack lies up an
unmistakable cleft behind a huge detached obelisk on the south or
left-hand side of the Curtain. Above the cleft a narrow crack affords
a very pleasing exit. Once on the crest of the Curtain the work is
straightforward, the ordinary tracks from the east side being crossed
_en route_. The final stretch of the arête, which lands the climber on
the top of the rock, involves some exhilarating arm-swings on capacious
holds.
THE WEST JORDAN CRACK and the FAR WEST JORDAN CLIMB were
discovered in 1909 by Messrs. H. B. Gibson and W. B. Brunskill. A
poised block, which stands a few feet west of the foot of the old West
Jordan Climb, marks the base of operations. From this the ‘Crack’ route
slants upwards to the left over the top of a steep slab to a diminutive
ledge at the foot of a vertical corner, up which rises a narrow crack.
The ascent of this 20 foot corner is the crux of the climb; above it
the summit cairn is only a few feet away. The Far West Jordan Climb is
somewhat the easier of the two problems. From above the poised block
previously mentioned, the route diverges at once to the left, and,
after crossing a grass-floored depression, it makes for a detached
spike, about 5 feet high, close to the left sky-line. This affords good
anchorage for the second climber whilst the leader tackles the ensuing
somewhat exposed section from the top of the detached spike. This
consists of a passage up a crack to the right of an overhanging block.
Above this a fine arête is gained which leads to the summit.
THE WEST RIDGE OF PISGAH.--The Pisgah problems have never been
considered seriously by climbers, but this longer course up the whole
length of the west side of the prominent little peak is worthy of
passing mention. The route shows to advantage on the line drawing of
the west side of the Pillar Rock. At the point of divergence, about 45
feet above the screes, the left-hand way is the easier of the two; it
regains the direct route by way of a detached rock-pinnacle.
WALKER’S GULLY.--Since it almost seems customary nowadays
to become benighted in this magnificent gorge, a few notes may be
given as to altered conditions. Those who pay their first visit to
this exceptionally severe course would be well advised to avoid the
‘watery’ first pitch on the left. If abnormally dry it may be overcome
direct, but this probably involves more severe climbing than anything
encountered in the higher main bed of the gully. The best course for
those who wish to add this initial pitch to their laurels is to start
up the buttress a few feet to the right of its foot. About 30 feet
higher a grass ledge is reached, where a short traverse can be made to
the left, and then the way lies up a narrow sloping scoop for nearly 25
feet. At the top of this the holds are rather deficient, but it is soon
possible to step across on to the upper part of the big chimney and
thence struggle up directly over the capstone.
The great cave below the mass of tumbled boulders in the upper part of
the gully has recently given serious pause to at least two parties of
experts. The hole at the back of the cave is blocked by fallen rocks,
and considerable difficulty has been encountered in making the upward
way on the exposed outside edge of the jammed boulders. It may be
mentioned that the blocking of this hole is probably only temporary; it
has occurred before, and been removed by wary experts. During the first
ascent the hole required considerable enlargement.
The fact that the final obstacle can be overcome by first climbing
up the right wall until the left wall can be reached to assume a
backing-up attitude would seem to be unknown to many parties. Even
a moderately short man can utilise this method. Failure to realize
this has resulted in more than one party spending a night in the damp
recesses of the gully. Yet they would probably find the magnificent
scenery ample reward for the discomfort involved. The great black walls
of the gorge loom gloomily on either hand. To watch the moon’s rays
casting a pervasive gleam athwart the distant peaks is indescribably
beautiful. But this is only ‘moonshine,’ especially to those who have
watched and waited.
THE SHAMROCK.--The climber who emerges safely from Walker’s
Gully may be glad to know that there is a pleasant scramble thence
to the lower peak of the Shamrock. This acts as a welcome muscular
sedative after the previously severe exercise in the gully. Just to
the left of the top of the great upper pitch a crack will be noticed
slanting to the left up the wall of the Shamrock. This yields about 30
feet of ascent, and then, turning to the right, the climber mounts,
first on clean rocks, and later over grass-crowned ledges, to the
summit. After a short descent across the head of the Shamrock Gully, it
is possible to mount the opposite wall and emerge quite close to the
cairns which mark the downward path by the Shamrock Traverse.
THE SHAMROCK BUTTRESS, by the original route, affords a pleasant
excursion in winter time, when the gully and greater climbs close
at hand are scarcely approachable. The course starts up a small but
well-defined gully a few yards to the right of the wide entrance to
the Shamrock Gully. It continues straight up the Buttress, until a
high slice of smooth rock suggests a slight descent and traverse to
the right to the foot of an obvious chimney pitch with prominent
chock-stones. Above this another short pitch gives the approach to the
foot of a steep rib of rock which is crowned by a loosely wedged stone.
The easy bed of the Shamrock Chimney is now entered and followed beyond
the short, final pitch which, except under snowy conditions, possesses
a ‘through route.’ To avoid this pitch an interesting variation can
be made up the steep crack on the right-hand wall, from the summit of
which there is a short traverse to the left to the foot of the usual
arête finish of the Shamrock Chimneys Climb. Curiously enough this
latter course is seldom visited nowadays, yet it is by far the finest
expedition on the Shamrock.
In 1909 a party led by Mr. H. B. Gibson made a variation on the
Shamrock Gully side of the buttress in its upper part. After ascending
a 25 foot slab and some easier rocks, they entered the gully above
the great pitch. From a pile of loose boulders, since swept away,
they continued up the right wall of the gully, bearing at first to
the right, and finished at the top of the original Shamrock Buttress
course. An extensive fall of rock has taken place on this final
stage of the climb; the place is now decidedly unsafe, and should
be avoided. It might be noted that the falling masses and previous
natural weathering have altered the structure of the great pitch of the
Shamrock Gully. The left-hand route may now be considered the easier of
the two ways of overcoming the obstacle.
CHAPTER II
_NEW CLIMBS ON GREAT GABLE, SCAWFELL, AND AROUND WASTDALE HEAD_
THE ABBEY RIDGE ranks as the best discovery on Great Gable since
the ascent of the Ling Chimney in 1899. In the present work (p. 158)
there is a reference to the rocks to the left of the ordinary West
Chimney route up the Eagle’s Nest Ridge. This attracted the attention
of Messrs. F. Botterill and J. Hazard with a happy result--the
annexation of a new climb. This was in the April of 1909.
The lower part of the new ridge is well defined, but above the broad
ledge, almost on a level with the exit from the ordinary West Chimney,
several routes are available. This section was climbed many years ago
on more than one occasion, notably when the deep, black chimney on the
west side of the ridge was visited. This fine cleft is well seen from
the Arrowhead Ridge, rising above the big boulder pitch in the Eagle’s
Nest Gully. The ascent is not difficult.
The latter remark scarcely applies to the new portion of the Abbey
Ridge, especially if the direct ascent of the _mauvais pas_ be made.
A long ‘run out’ for the leader at this point warrants the warning
that the lofty sanctuary of the Abbey is only for the expert who is
in perfect training. The climb begins easily, either at the very
bottom of the ridge or by joining it at a point almost on a level with
the beginning of the Eagle’s Nest Ridge. The ascent to the top of a
conspicuous detached mass begins to suggest difficulty. But the real
work starts directly above this, in gaining a narrow grassy ledge which
stretches across the face for several feet. From the extreme left
of this ledge the way lies up the arête until a steep, grassy gully
slightly more to the left affords a finish to the upper ledge on a
level with the top of the Eagle’s Nest Chimney. This is the easier of
the two exits. The direct route bears away to the right below the steep
and grassy gully until an overhanging block rises above the climber.
It is important to make sure of this position, as the rocks are now
very well scratched. The key to the situation is a good hold for both
hands right under the overhanging block. Progress beyond this crucial
point is scarcely safe unless this grip is secured, but once above this
‘step’ the rest is comparatively safe and easy. The rock throughout is
of the usual Gable quality.
Two other small variations on the Napes may be mentioned in passing.
In the autumn of 1910 Messrs. H. R. Pope and E. T. W. Addyman found an
interesting problem on the right wall of the ordinary West Chimney on
the Eagle’s Nest Ridge. From the big belay half-way up this cleft it
is possible to traverse out to the right on to a steep rock face which
forms the left-hand wall of the Ling Chimney. This wall can be climbed
to the top on ledges which lead across to the right-hand edge and then
back to the left again. The finish can be taken directly upwards.
It is scarcely advisable to say that anything new can be found on the
Needle Ridge. However, Messrs. A. G. Woodhead and J. Laycock have
accentuated the fact that this much-trodden ridge can be climbed
straight up from the lowest point. The last 15 feet before the old
route is gained require skilful treatment.
Numerous small and unimportant variations on the ever-attractive
Needle have been made. Records of personal gymnastics are best omitted
here, though the best of all may be mentioned--that of the beginner,
who ‘climbed’ the top stone by a really new method. This enthusiast
assumed a position of repose on the mantelshelf, and for half-an-hour
pored over the view over the edge and down the impressive scree slopes
of Gable. At last the patience of the lusty leader on the top became
exhausted. Though the novice hung on with his hands, he ‘had to come,’
which he did feet first.
The attractions of the Ennerdale Face of Great Gable have been
increased by the discovery of a splendid course by Dr. J. S. Sloane
and Messrs. M. Gimson, A. J. Gimson, and J. E. Henderson in the
April of 1909. They appropriately suggested that the rift might be
called the SMUGGLER’S CHIMNEY, and this name has been adopted.
The hand and footwork starts about 100 feet west of the foot of the
Central Gully, with about 20 feet of ascent of steep rock. The chimney
proper, which is vertical and about 85 feet in height, now begins. It
is in three stages, and the first part gives 35 feet of engrossing
climbing before a cave is entered. The hardest part of the climb occurs
where there is an undercut bulge of rock about 10 feet below this
resting-place. At this point it is probably best to forsake the back
and foot method and allow the arms and knees to do most of the work.
The second section of the chimney above the Cave consists of a narrow,
vertical, deeply-cut crack which bears some resemblance to the Monolith
Crack in North Wales. This stretch--though squeeze might be the better
word--is 25 feet in height. The final pitch is almost the same height,
but its extra width will prove gratifying to stout climbers despite
the somewhat constricting final wriggle afforded by the hole of the
‘through route.’ Easy, grassy ground is now encountered, which leads
past the ‘Smuggler’s Retreat,’ and thus to the crest of the crags.
In the September of 1908 Messrs. G. H. L. Mallory and G. L. Keynes
found two ‘little climbs’ on the Ennerdale Face to the left of the
Bottle-shaped Pinnacle Ridge. They can be reached from the Scree
Gully--marked B on the line drawing--by traversing upwards from the
fork towards a large overhanging crag. This is a prominent feature
of this side of Gable Crag. The new climbs are claimed to be the
nearest routes which can be found to the left and to the right of
the overhanging crag. Cairns mark the start of each course, that to
the left being the easier of the two, and giving about 150 feet of
climbing. On the right a steep crack affords for the most part the
means of ascent. The difficulty is concentrated in the first 80 feet.
Where the crack becomes easier and wider higher up, it is probably
better to end the climb by traversing on to the right buttress.
A few other minor points of interest on the Ennerdale Face may be
worth mention. For instance, Messrs. H. V. Reade and G. Arbuthnot have
shown that the vertical crack rising from near the foot of the Oblique
Chimney to the gap behind the Bottle-shaped Pinnacle may be climbed,
but not without difficulty. The disappearance of the much discussed
‘rocking-rock’ in the Engineers’ Chimney has not made the ascent any
easier; in fact, the relative difficulty of this section remains about
the same.
In misty weather the foot of the Central Gully was often difficult
to locate, even though the climber happened to be sitting at it.
Recognition is now a simple matter, for a huge boulder has fallen
and bridged the foot of the gorge most picturesquely. Other slight
alterations have also occurred in the bed of the gully. For instance,
more holds have developed on the steep crack in the middle part of
the gully, where the usual easy route slants up to the left to the
Staircase Pitch. The ascent of this crack is now frequently made.
For those who do not essay the ‘Direct Finish’ there is a steep but
not difficult crack just to the left of the great nose of rock which
so boldly divides the upper part of the Central Gully. The ordinary
route is still further to the left, but there are variations galore
hereabouts.
’Tis a far cry from Wastdale to the head of MOSEDALE to find an
outcrop of wet slabs less than 200 feet high. Yet several parties of
enthusiasts have developed the art of finding diminutive new climbs in
remote corners. There are two main rifts splitting the Mosedale Rocks.
These are known as the East and the West Cracks. The former is the more
difficult of the two; in fact, the pitch near the top would seem to
require the use of a lowered rope from some friends above if the ascent
is to be made safely. It has not yet been climbed without this aid. At
least two routes have also been found directly on the face between the
two cracks, and two smaller rifts to the right of the East Crack have
been added to the list of conquests. All are well marked and easier
to find than to climb, for the experts of the Fell and Rock-Climbing
Club, usually under the skilled leadership of Mr. H. B. Lyon, have
specialised on the Mosedale Rocks.
GREAT END. THE BROTHERS’ CRACK.--Glorious as is Great End in the
winter time, it has never appealed largely to the rock-climber pure and
simple. But these latter will be entertained excellently if they join
the brotherhood of the new crack, which owes its exploitation to those
well-known judges of a sound climb, Mr. G. F. and Rev. A. J. Woodhouse.
The crack rises about 60 feet to the north of the well-known Brigg’s
Cave Pitch on the east end of the crags. The actual crack itself is
nearly as high as that on Kern Knotts. It is situated in a corner, and
rises vertically from a large grass ledge. This take-off is reached
by ordinary scrambling, though the final landing is made by means of
a short crack. The real climbing up the main crack, which is here too
narrow to admit one’s body, begins with a slabby section in two parts,
in all about 20 feet high. The crack now widens, and is available for
wedging purposes. After a short stretch of ‘back and knee’ the most
difficult portion is reached, and for this the leader would be well
advised to thread the rope behind a jammed stone. The final obstacle
possesses an overhanging chock-stone, but good ledges on the left wall
simplify the finish. The climb is undoubtedly severe, for the leader
can nowhere receive any help from his companion.
SCAWFELL.--Of late years but little new climbing of any
magnitude has been done on Scawfell. This is no doubt entirely due
to the fact that in the early days Scawfell was the most attractive
and most exploited of all the Lakeland crags. The present decade has
produced first-rate climbers to an unlimited extent, but their best
efforts have been restricted by the rocks themselves, and, where these
have been forced to yield climbs, what they have given us are in many
cases just beyond the line of safety, even for the best parties.
Another effect of this strenuous search after new routes has been the
discovery of many variations, and some of these are worth description,
although necessarily brief, in a work like the present.
SCAWFELL PINNACLE CLIMB DIRECT FROM UPPER DEEP GHYLL.--The start
of this climb is described by Mr. Jones on p. 88. After the first 15
feet or so he traversed away to the left on to the arête of the Low Man.
Messrs. A. G. Woodhead and W. L. Collinson climbed this lower
difficulty in August 1907, after which they bore straight upward over
shelving and fairly difficult ledges for a hundred feet or so, until
impending rocks forced them away to the left. When almost in a line
with the top of the Pinnacle they struck straight upward from a broad
platform (where a cairn now stands) over a bulge of rock, necessitating
a good arm pull, until a belay was reached. Thence a grassy gully led
them without difficulty to the top of the High Man. The climb is
one of much merit, and deserves more popularity than it enjoys. The
exceedingly difficult start may have acted as a deterrent, but it may
be an encouragement to leaders to know that once they have overcome
this _mauvais pas_ the higher rocks contain climbing of a much easier
order.
SCAWFELL PINNACLE FROM DEEP GHYLL, VARIATIONS.--A somewhat
easier way of reaching the Low Man from the _firma loca_ (p. 81) than
that of the arête followed in the first ascent, was found and climbed
by Mr. A. H. Binns alone in August 1904. This is now called Gibson’s
Chimney route, after Mr. H. O. S. Gibson, who repeated the ascent in
June 1907, and left a lucid description of it in the Wastdale Climbers’
Book.
From the _firma loca_ a traverse is made in the direction of the arête
until a crack sloping up to the right is reached. This is followed for
about 15 feet, and the upper reaches of the chimney described by Mr.
Jones as ‘hopeless’ (p. 82) soon attained. Here a leaf of rock, with
good holds on its edge, affords moderately difficult and strenuous
climbing for 30 feet until the chimney becomes impossible. It is then
abandoned to the left, along a traverse which leads past a good belay
to the arête. The first step upward on this gives a pretty problem in
an exposed position. The holds are small but good until the vertical
piece is scaled. Thence the going is comparatively easy to the crest of
the Low Man. Other variations have been found from the _firma loca_,
but, while some of these many prove useful to a leader unable to follow
Mr. Jones’ route, the original climb is by far the most entertaining
for strong parties.
A good belay about 40 feet up the lower crack has dispelled many of its
terrors, and now renders the long initial run out on the part of the
leader quite unnecessary.
DEEP GHYLL, SECOND PITCH.--It is of interest--a melancholy
interest perhaps--to know that it is no longer necessary to climb up
the left or right side of this famous pitch in the historic manner, and
that an inglorious ascent can now be made through a hole at the back
of the cave. Stones drop straight down this hole from the Ghyll above,
perhaps as a hint to climbers to play the game in the old-fashioned way!
MOSS GHYLL, UPPER VARIATION.--This starts some 20 feet to the
right of the foot of the Great Chimney. A few feet up the face a
crack is reached, and this can be followed to a small cairn. Here a
choice of routes offers, one back to the top of the Great Chimney, and
the alternative one to the Pisgah Ridge. A strong party led by Mr.
F. Botterill first proved the possibilities of this variation, and
described it as slightly more difficult than the direct exit up the
chimney.
MR. BOTTERILL’S CLIMBS.--The long sloping cracks, the upper
parts of which were followed in the Collier’s and Keswick Brothers’
climbs, were ascended in their entirety at Whitsuntide 1903 by Messrs.
F. Botterill, H. Williamson, and E. Grant.
The crack nearest Mickledore Ridge is difficult throughout, and
is, moreover, somewhat earthy and friable; there is no record of a
repetition of its ascent. The companion crack was the scene of a
remarkable _tour de force_. Mr. Botterill’s account of his exploit,[2]
and the warning note sounded by a party of great skill and experience
which unsuccessfully essayed the second ascent, will probably acquaint
climbers with sufficient details to cause them to take the climb itself
‘as read.’ It is in a class apart, and, basing our judgment on a survey
made on a rope from above, we do not recommend it.
After a lapse of nearly twenty years, and repeated onslaughts by many
parties, PIERS’ GHYLL was ascended throughout for the second
time in September 1910. Mr. H. R. Pope, admirably backed up by Mr.
R. B. Sanderson, succeeded in leading a large party up the various
wet and friable pitches that go to make the climb. From a vivid
description, written by Mr. Sanderson in the current number of the Fell
and Rock Club _Journal_, we gather that, in spite of the constantly
falling rocks in the Ghyll, the narrow pitch below the Bridge Rock is
practically unaltered, and is still the greatest difficulty. It is
necessary to stand immediately below the waterfall in order to work up
a shallow, almost holdless groove. This is very steep; the rocks are,
of course, wet and slippery; added to these is the uncertain nature
and paucity of the holds--altogether a combination of difficulty,
disagreeableness, and danger that most parties will care to court but
very seldom.
During the same holiday Messrs. Pope and Madan climbed from Tennis
Court Ledge to the Fives Court on Pisgah Buttress by traversing from
the right-hand end of the Ledge for a short distance. Thence they
climbed directly up a steep rock-face for 15 feet or so to the Fives
Court, a somewhat easier but much more exposed route than that up the
crack utilised in the first ascent.
Other variations of a minor character have been made on many of the
older climbs; indeed so thoroughly has the face been scoured, that it
would be a very rash man who would nowadays come down to the Wastwater
Hotel and say that he had made a new route up Scawfell.
CHAPTER III
_THE BUTTERMERE CLIMBS, AND THOSE IN OUTLYING DISTRICTS_
For strong and experienced parties of climbers, with a penchant
for boating, fishing, and long mountain tramps on the ‘off days,’
Buttermere is well-nigh ideal. Moreover, the _blasé_ ‘Wastdale Header’
will find amongst the fine corrie-like combes of High Crag and High
Stile, and above the great hollow of Warnscale, climbs of an entirely
different nature from most of the nail-scratched, polished courses
of his former haunts. Many of the Buttermere climbs are still to
all intents and purposes virgin ascents. The rock of which they are
formed does not take nail-marks so readily, and the blatant, scratched
foothold, which positively shouts at one ‘here am I!’ is as yet an
alien in these parts. The texture of the gullies is very different; it
is always necessary to be on the alert for unsteady chock-stones; every
hold needs testing; in fine, care and experience are essential to safe
ascents.
Mr. L. J. Oppenheimer, in his book ‘The Heart of Lakeland,’ has made
out a strong case for the claims of Buttermere as a centre for the more
historic climbs, and justly says that ‘after Wastdale Head--though no
doubt a long way after--it is one of the best centres in Lakeland.’ The
Buttermere Hotel is in every way a most excellent house, and to those
whose leaning is towards a simple life the farmhouses in the valley
are second to none. So much granted, it is perhaps as well to review
the work that has been done here, chiefly, it may be stated, by Mr.
Oppenheimer and his friends and brethren of the Rücksack Club.
THE GULLIES OF WARNSCALE.--When standing in the huge, green
hollow at the edge of Buttermere, one has on the north the great
face of Fleetwith, with a long prominent gully almost in the
centre--Fleetwith Gully. A point of the compass further round is a
bulging outcrop of rock, a prominent feature in all the photographs of
the Head of Buttermere. This is Green Crag, and up its left-hand side
runs Green Crag Gully, reminiscent of the late J. W. Robinson, who,
with Mr. W. A. Wilson, made its first ascent in 1899. To the right of
this, and on the Crag itself, is an unmistakable black rift, which is
now known as Toreador Gully. Further round still, and facing Fleetwith,
is the well-known Haystacks Mountain. Well to the left of the striking
cones which have given the mountain its name is a steep rock-face
seamed by three vertical rifts, one of which forks into two branches
about a third of the way up the Crags--the Y Gully. The middle rift is
Warn Gill, an ‘exceptionally severe course,’ whilst the one to the
right is Stack Ghyll, probably the best and most useful climb in the
valley.
FLEETWITH GULLY is somewhat disappointing on close acquaintance.
There are at least six pitches, but only two have any claim to
individuality. These are generally moist, and are scarcely ever
climbed, because they can easily be avoided on either side. Vegetation,
water, and loose stones are the impressive features of the gully.
GREEN CRAG GULLY suffers from a drawback common to some others
of the Buttermere climbs--in all but the driest weather a very
considerable stream of water tumbles down it. As a climb it is somewhat
disappointing, but the first pitch, a fine vertical rise of about 70
feet, is quite entertaining. Above this the going lacks character
and is comparatively easy, although care is needed on account of the
quickly disintegrating rock. Of a very different character is its
companion climb, TOREADOR GULLY. After some exploration work,
during which a dangerous huge block was dislodged, a party of Fell and
Rock Club Members, led by Mr. H. B. Lyon, subsequently made its ascent
in August 1908.
After a somewhat difficult start, the gully eases off and seductively
leads the climber upward to an 80-foot wet chimney, which is the crux
of the climb. The walls are set at a convenient distance apart for
‘backing up,’ and for a while all goes well. However, just when the
leader, who has worked upwards with his feet on the right wall and
back on the left, is beginning to feel fatigued and in need of a rest,
the difficulties increase, and it becomes necessary to transfer the
body across and face the opposite wall. Of anchorage there is none,
but the second man can back up to below the leader, and, firmly braced
across the chimney, can at least support him by the encouragement
of his proximity; whether he could hold his companion in the event
of a slip is somewhat doubtful. By most careful balancing, and an
exceedingly anxious time for the second man, the leader can effect a
lodgment facing the left wall, whence, with great difficulty, he can
work over the crest of the pitch.
Above this are two obstacles of a comparatively mild nature. There is
no record of a second ascent, although we understand that this climb is
quite justifiable for a really strong party.
The three remaining gullies above Warnscale Bottom are those on the
Haystacks, to which we have already made reference. Of these, the
left-hand or Y Gully can be summarily dismissed as containing too
much loose and dangerous rock. The next cleft to the right, WARN
GILL, suffers somewhat from the same fault, and, moreover, is
generally wet. It was reserved by Messrs. Oppenheimer, Scott, and Shaw
as a _bonne bouche_ for Mr. F. Botterill to lead up, and, as the former
naïvely remarks, ‘it proved rather more than difficult enough.’ After
climbing six excellent pitches, one of which, a long chimney raked
by a waterfall, proved to be abnormally severe, they were forced to
abandon their project when about 40 feet below the top of the gully.
A way of escape was found about 60 feet lower down on the right-hand
side. This lay up a steep rock and heather buttress leading to a
small chimney which took them to the top of the crags. The climbing
throughout is of great difficulty, quite apart from the instability
of some of the holds, and there is no doubt that this was a failure
far surpassing in achievement many a climb which has been brought to a
successful issue. It is perhaps well to note in passing that the name
is a corruption of Warnscale Gill, and was not given with any idea of
deterring subsequent parties.
STACK GHYLL, the next rift to the right, is a very different
proposition. From below it looks most alluring. Peeping over the top
of the ‘capstone’ of the first pitch is such a succession of chimneys
as is bound to arouse the keenest feelings of pleasurable anticipation
in a climber’s breast. One can well sympathise with the tantalising
way in which this comparatively short, first pitch repelled all the
earlier efforts to overcome it. All kinds of theories were evolved, but
all were proved fallacious by the smooth, overhanging chock-stone. It
seemed to be quite impregnable until, after repeated efforts, a small
hole was found on the right of the stone. This ultimately proved to be
the key to the pitch, and, as was but a just reward for many previous
disappointments, Messrs. Oppenheimer and Craig succeeded in passing
an ice-axe through the hole, and, by using the shaft as a handhold,
emerged successful. A short time previous to this the pitch had been
turned on the right, up some grassy ledges, and the gully entered
fairly high up, whence it was followed to the top.
The going immediately above the first pitch is fairly easy, and leads
by way of a narrow chimney, liberally supplied with chock-stones, to
a small scree patch. Immediately beyond is a pretty 40-foot chimney,
amenable to back and knee methods, which gives out on broken rocks.
Above this an outcrop of rock bars the way, and after passing this on
the left, one is soon confronted by the last obstacle.
The gully is here spanned by an unbroken wall of rock except in the
right-hand corner, where is a fine cave, overhung by a huge block.
This is too high to reach, but off a sturdy shoulder a handhold can
be grasped on the right. A trying drag up, chiefly on the arms, then
enables the leader to effect a lodgment above the pitch, in readiness
for the others, who will derive much strenuous exercise unless they
pocket their pride and accept a tug from the rope--an excellent gully
and, if climbed during dry weather, but little inferior to the best in
Lakeland.
THE BIRKNESS COMBE CLIMBS.--The wild upland hollow dividing
High Stile from High Crag contains one of the many Eagle Crags of
Lakeland. This is the finest rock around Buttermere, and recalls very
strongly in shape, height, and general contour the famous Cyrn Lâs
buttress of Snowdonia. The rock of this Eagle Crag is of a much better
type, however, from the climber’s point of view, and the fine climb,
BIRKNESS CHIMNEY, made in August 1903 by Mr. L. J. Oppenheimer
and Dr. Norman Sheldon, is much superior to anything on Cyrn Lâs.
A good climb also is that up the prominent black rift which faces High
Crag. This is known as BIRKNESS GULLY, and it affords about a
couple of hundred feet of climbing, the upper part of which is fairly
difficult. The initial stages are quite simple, and the interest is not
fairly aroused until, high up, a huge cave, roofed in by huge boulders,
is reached. About 15 feet below the dominating boulder is a huge,
wedged rock which bridges the gully; the climb on to this behind sundry
smaller jammed stones is very pretty. It is well for the second man
to pass the leader when on a level with the main bridge and traverse
outwards on to it. He can then climb up to a higher cave immediately
below the great capstone and belay the rope. The leader then comes out
to the bridge and scales the vertical right wall immediately above it.
The holds are small but sufficient, and the proceeding is rendered
safe by the rope held by the second man. Above this nothing remains
save a descent to the foot of the Gully, with a view to an assault
upon BIRKNESS CHIMNEY. This is a climb of great severity, and,
but for the possibility of threading the rope to belay the leader at
the worst part, might be dismissed as unjustifiable. As things are,
however, a strong--one should perhaps say a _very_ strong--party will
find great sport and a reasonable immunity from risk. The Chimney
proper branches from the Gully described, at a point just below the
serious climbing in the latter. It is entered by way of a steep, grassy
corner, dominated by a chimney, generally moist, of about 20 feet in
height.
The next pitch, a chimney, is rather more so than that passed, both as
regards height and moisture. It can be obviated by the rocks on either
hand, however. Above it is a steep wall of rock surmounted by a crack.
The wall can be climbed direct or by way of a chimney on the left,
either of which routes is interesting, but not as stiff as the crack
above. Beyond this is the difficult pitch. High up, a huge mass of rock
protruding from the right wall breaks the continuity of the chimney
and forms a cave. Away outwards, at about the level of the cave, is a
shallow groove with no bottom; the difficulty is to get into this. And
a very serious difficulty it is. Fortunately a small stone is tightly
jammed inside the cave, and the leader’s rope can be passed behind
it. He then traverses outward, aided somewhat by his second, and
after a long stretch upward, in a most awkward position, a handhold is
reached. Then occurs a most strenuous arm pull, with the feet dangling
helplessly, or vainly seeking support on the smooth rock-wall. Elbows,
arms, and shoulders are simultaneously requisitioned ere a hold for the
feet can be found in the groove. Once this is gained, however, the work
is easier until the top chock-stone is reached. This demands another
effort, and the pitch is vanquished.
Dr. Sheldon, who led the first ascent, was much impressed by its
difficulty, and likened it to the top pitch of Walker’s Gully, which he
had climbed a short time previously. There remain two more obstacles
before the steep wall at the top is reached, neither of which call for
special comment. Near the angle of Eagle Crag there is a long straight
Gully which so far has not been climbed in its entirety. It repelled a
party of exceptional strength some years ago, after an assault upon it
lasting for seven hours.
BLEABERRY COMBE, carved out of the breast of High Stile,
contains the small tarn whence issues Sour Milk Ghyll, beloved of the
Buttermere day excursionist.
As he stands at the door of Buttermere Hotel and gazes upward at
the crags above the water slide, a fine rift is open to his view.
This, which by the way can also be seen from near Keswick, was the
first climb made on the Bleaberry Combe Crags. It is the BLACK
CHIMNEY, and was first climbed by the late O. G. Jones and J. W.
Robinson (what a lot we Lakeland climbers owe to those two!) in the
early days of their acquaintance.
In spite of its promising appearance it contains but two pitches, both
of which are fairly simple. Further along the crag to the right, and
hidden from sight of the hotel, is the CENTRAL GULLY. This lacks
continuity throughout the greater part of its length, but possesses
two pitches of considerable difficulty. Further round still is a long
narrow chimney. At present it is known as Bleaberry Chimney, but we
would suggest OPPENHEIMER’S CHIMNEY as a more appropriate
name, for Mr. Oppenheimer was in the large party that first climbed
it in 1908, and the fraternity will welcome this permanent means of
identifying him with the fine work he has done in its vicinity. To
quote his own words, ‘the chimney is the longest and most enjoyable
climb on these crags.’
Two long, easy gullies on the north-west side of Grassmoor, suitable
for beginners, and another on Dale Head facing Honister, complete the
tale of the Buttermere climbs, which, as the famous courses around
Wastdale become more familiar, are sure to attract more attention in
the future, and deservedly so, than they have done in the past.
It cannot at present be said that the outlying climbs of the Lake
District receive much attention, thus few of them are kept in
a good state of repair. Perhaps the Borrowdale courses are most
visited, notably Sergeant Crag Chimney and Mouse Ghyll. Considerable
alterations have taken place in the former course since Mr. Jones’
days. The difficult central pitch, or, rather, the upper part of it,
has partially collapsed. Though the ascent is much simplified, the
place needs respectful treatment. At least one leader has fallen here
quite recently. There is one Borrowdale climb which seems practically
deserted. This is BLACK CRAG GULLY. This fine, narrow rift
splits the face of the cliff at the easterly head of Troutdale, and
looks very striking when seen across the Borrowdale Valley from Mouse
Ghyll. Unfortunately there is a loose section almost half-way up which
would prevent the ascent from being recommended except to advanced
experts. The two pitches below this danger zone are quite good. The
ensuing pitch, about 30 feet high, is singularly smooth, and few
sound holds are available. The fall of a well-known leader not very
long ago tested the strength of an alpine rope here. Luckily it was
belayed around a tree, and, though in the hands of a beginner, it held
securely, despite a fall of over 20 feet. Even trees on a climb may
be sometimes useful. Above this dangerous portion the climb is most
enjoyable, and unique for the lake views it affords.
In the early days parties of keen campers and scramblers frequented
the beautiful dales around the head of ULLSWATER. But nowadays,
after everything has been explored thoroughly, it cannot be said that
there is much in the vicinity to attract cragsmen. On Helvellyn, St.
Sunday’s Crag, and Fairfield there is plenty of indefinite scrambling
to be found, but this is never continuously good, rather the reverse.
Despite its huge bulk Helvellyn possesses few rocks that favour the
climber. Dolly Waggon Pike, at the head of Grisedale, is the best of
all. It contains two gullies which may be reached from Patterdale in
about an hour and a half, or from the top of Dunmail Raise on the
Grasmere side in less than an hour’s time. In these days of motor
mountaineering this fact is worth remembering. The best-known course,
DOLLY WAGGON PIKE GULLY, lies rather towards the westerly end of
the crag, and rises, narrow and steep, just to the right of a series
of big scree gullies which unite and send a conspicuous talus of scree
down the mountain side. Some short introductory scrambling leads to
the real climbing, where an almost vertical crack rises on the left in
the true bed of the gully. A shallow scoop on the right gives the best
route for about 15 feet, when it may be advisable to traverse back to
the left into the crack above the steepest part. This is now followed
by a patch of scree above a series of slabs, and short boulder pitches
lead to the final chimney, which rises slightly on the left. About 300
feet east of this somewhat easy course there is a much more imposing
opening in the crags. This was noticed many years ago by the pioneers,
notably by the late Tom Westmorland, whose name all climbers remember
with respect in connection with the early days on the Pillar Rock, and
the building of the Westmorland cairn or Great Gable. The great rift
in Dolly Waggon Pike, though often attempted, was not climbed in its
entirety direct until so recently as 1910. Strange to tell, it fell to
the lot of the pioneer’s son, Mr. Horace Westmorland, to lead the first
party. His companion was Mr. John Mounsey. Their friends have named the
place the PENRITH GULLY.
There are four difficult pitches in the gully, three of them being of
the cave and jammed-boulder variety. Unfortunately a grassy terrace
divides the lower pitches from the upper portion, making it easy to
leave the gully above the second pitch. This somewhat spoils the
continuity of the climb. The first pitch is not difficult, and may be
passed directly over the chock-stone after first backing up on the
left. The second obstacle is more trying. The best plan is to ‘back
up’ as far as the recess under the capstone, and with the second man
in this secure resting-place the leader may negotiate the awkward exit
over the boulder on its right-hand side. The third or ‘Great Pitch’
starts from above the intervening ledge. Eighty feet higher a huge
boulder has become jammed across the gorge, with a smaller mass below
it. There is no cave below these, and as the place is very steep,
somewhat smooth, and always rather wet, it ranks as much the most
difficult part of the climb. A shallow scoop just to the right of the
bed of the gully enables the lower chock-stone to be reached. Some
anchorage is available here, and the rope may be threaded to secure
the further advance of the leader. The final exposed section is best
climbed to the left of the crack, which is formed between the big
boulder and the left wall. The final pitch is vegetation-covered, and
possesses a fine bridge-rock, but the whole of the gully is loose, and
the finish somewhat unpleasant.
DOVE CRAGS, PATTERDALE.--This cliff looks tempting when seen
from below the Kirkstone Pass and near the Brotherswater Hotel,
which provides the best starting-point. Climbers have more than once
essayed the ascent. ‘An impossible face’ and ‘an inaccessible gully’
seemed to be the only result until October 1910, when Messrs. H.
Westmorland, J. Mounsey, and W. A. North discovered a complicated route
up the rock-face. This was about 100 feet to the right of the really
‘inaccessible gully.’ The overhanging sections were avoided by some
skilful traversing, and the situations often proved sensational. In the
local newspapers it was stated that a doctor was present at the foot of
the crags.
Small cairns mark the route, which, once correctly started upon, can
hardly be missed, for there is scarcely another available.
CHAPTER IV
_RECENT CLIMBS AROUND LANGDALE AND DOE CRAG_
PAVEY ARK.--Despite the exploitation of Gimmer Crag and other
smaller local attractions, this fine mass still ranks as first
favourite with most climbers who stray Langdalewards. Yet, though
it becomes more and more scarred and scratched with the marks of
‘hob-nailers,’ one curious feature must impress those who visit the
crags after several years’ absence. This is the curious encroachment of
vegetation. Beautiful as are some of the plants and grasses which cling
to the face, the cragsman revels most in seeing and climbing the stern,
bare crags. The rarest botanical specimen, if it cumber a handhold,
is treated with scant respect. Fortunately the more popular routes
are practically free from dangerous vegetation, but recent adventures
on some that are less frequented would suggest that a warning note be
struck.
THE CRESCENT CLIMB, which begins around the corner a few yards
to the right of the Great Gully, is much spoilt by the exuberance of
plant life. The first 200 feet lie altogether up a grassy slope or
opening. There are steep, shelving rocks on the right, but these are
not approached until an overhanging portion supervenes. Then the main
feature of the Crescent begins. This is a traverse below the impending
portion. The place is exposed, but the hand and footholds are ample,
whilst the anchorage is all that could be desired. After crossing the
rocks for about 60 feet, the heathery slopes can be gained that lead
up to Jack’s Rake at rather more than half of its length. The deep,
narrow rift of GWYNNE’S CHIMNEY will now be noticed right ahead,
and this gives a splendid finish to the course. In fact, were it not
for this attraction the Crescent would scarcely be worth the attention
of climbers. The Chimney has walls of exceedingly rough rock, and
an oblong-shaped mass of rock may roughly be said to divide it into
two portions. The exit is made on the right, and an easy ridge leads
upwards. There is plenty of indefinite scrambling until the highest
point of Pavey Ark is reached.
THE BUTTRESS BETWEEN THE GREAT AND LITTLE GULLIES at first
sight suggests first-class climbing. Closer acquaintance, however,
reveals the presence of so much vegetation and such an indefinite
rock structure that the place is disappointing. The ascent had been
made many years ago, but no record would appear to have been made
until early in 1910, when the late J. Anton Stoop and Mr. Douglas
Yeomans discovered a route, which has the merit of individuality.
They started from the foot of the buttress about 50 yards to the left
of the Great Gully, and adhered as closely as possible to the main
ridge, gradually slanting up to the left towards the head of a small
side gully which springs out of the Little Gully. The last 80 feet
consisted of a vertical face, with a very conspicuous overhanging stone
at the corner. The face was climbed by a chimney which had been seen
from below, just to the left of the corner. The chimney consisted of
two parts, with a chock-stone at the top. Above this the climb can be
varied considerably; the upper rocks of Pavey Ark are famous for their
wonderful gripping and ripping qualities, and they are here at their
best.
A good deal of indefinite scrambling has been undertaken on the walls
of the deep opening at the easterly end of the cliff--marked C on Mr.
Jones’ line drawing facing p. 203. Two routes on the left-hand wall are
worth passing mention. GIBSON’S CHIMNEY is a well-marked cliff
in the upper part of the opening. Large cairns mark the start and the
finish. There are two definite pitches, which in all afford about 50
feet of straightforward backing up practice.
BENISON’S CHIMNEY, which rises between Gibson’s Chimney and Rake
End Chimney, is built on a different mould. It consists of a series of
ill-defined scoops somewhat resembling the Shamrock Chimneys on the
Pillar. The place is nearly 200 feet high. It reeks with danger and
rank vegetation; moreover, loose holds occur at crucial points. The
most difficult section occurs about 150 feet above the start. A steep
bit of rock about 15 feet high has to be ascended. There is practically
only one satisfactory hold on this stretch; the ulterior support is
grass; and the base of operations is a quivering, turf ledge, which
threatens to come away momentarily. Thus no help can be afforded the
leader, whose troubles are further accentuated by a lack of anchorage.
The writer trusts that few climbers will be attracted by Benison’s
Chimney.
GIMMER CRAG has of late years received much attention from rock
enthusiasts. The shapely buttress is a conspicuous feature of the
Langdale Pikes, especially when seen from the direction of Blea Tarn.
The full height of the crag, which is singularly firmly weathered, is
nearly 400 feet. It thrusts itself aggressively forth from the grassy
spur which joins Pike O’ Stickle with Harrison Stickle. Yet, until the
late Andrew Thomson, of genial memory, described its opportunities so
recently as 1901, climbers scarcely seemed to realise the existence of
Gimmer Crag. There are now three distinct climbs of exceptional merit
and two important variations, whilst on either side of the main crag
plenty of indefinite scrambling and short gully problems can be enjoyed.
THE GIMMER CHIMNEY.--This obvious cleft starts at the foot
of the Crag to the right of, and lower down than the nose of, the
buttress. The first serious difficulty occurs about 40 feet up, where
the direct ascent of the chimney becomes impossible, and a traverse is
made to the right. After an awkward upward movement has been made it
is possible to force a way back into the chimney by swinging on a good
handhold. The second obstacle is of the strid variety, followed by a
shallow groove, with the best holds on the right wall. This gives out
below a well-defined chimney, which is difficult to enter, being, as
its engineering discoverer aptly described it, ‘bell-mouthed.’ Above
this a traverse to the right is made, whence a chimney with holds on
the right wall enables some grassy higher ledges to be reached. The
final chimney is wide at the beginning, but narrows near the top, where
a rib of rock protrudes and leaves a narrow but safe passage on the
right.
The two face routes A and B, with their variations, start
from a terrace, which extends for some considerable distance across
the face. This is about 90 feet above the commencement of the Chimney
Climb, and may best be reached by way of a small, slanting gully filled
with bilberry bushes, now known as the Bilberry Shute. It may be most
convenient first to mention the most direct ascent up the nose of the
buttress; this is known as Oliverson’s variation of the A Route. This
starts just to the left of the ‘Nose,’ and after about 40 feet of steep
practice on comparatively small holds, a ‘three-step’ traverse is made
to the right on the crest of the ‘Nose,’ whence the way lies directly
upwards to the ‘belay.’ To follow the original A and B Route from the
terrace a course to the right of the ‘Nose’ is followed up a rough slab
crowned with broken rocks, beyond which a sloping rock ledge is gained.
This may be recognized by its having a shallow ‘crevasse’ separating it
from the main crag. At the further and lower end of this ledge from the
point at which it is reached a leaf of rock, abutting against the base
of a depression in the wall above, marks the start of a short pitch,
which brings the climber to the ledge where the routes divide. This has
been called Thomson’s Ledge.