[Sidenote: Stoure.]
After the Midwaie we haue the Stoure that riseth at Kingeswood, which
[Sidenote: Nailburne water also (as I heare) neer to Cantwarbirie,
but I wote not whereabouts: sée _Marianus Scotus_.]
is fourtéene or fifteene miles from Canturburie. This riuer passeth by
Ashford, Wie, Nackington, Canturburie, Fordish, Standish, and
Sturemouth, where it receiueth another riuer growing of three
branches. After our Stoure or Sture parteth it self in twaine, & in
such wise, that one arme therof goeth toward the north, and is called
(when it commeth at the sea) the north mouth of Stoure; the other
runneth southeastward vp to Richborow, and so to Sandwich, from whence
it goeth northeast againe and falleth into the sea. The issue of this
later tract is called the hauen of Sandwich. And peraduenture the
streame that commeth downe thither, after the diuision of the Stoure,
[Sidenote: Wantsome.]
maie be the same which Beda calleth Wantsome; but as I cannot vndoo
this knot at will, so this is certeine, that the Stoure on the one
side, and peraduenture the Wantsome on the other, parteth and cutteth
the Tenet from the maine land of Kent, whereby it is left for an
Iland.
There are other little brookes which fall into the Stoure, whereof
Leland speaketh, as Fishpoole becke that ariseth in Stonehirst wood,
and meeteth with it foure miles from Canturburie: another beginneth at
Chislet, and goeth into the Stoure gut, which sometime inclosed
Thanet, as Leland saith: the third issueth out of the ground at
Northburne (where Eadbert of Kent sometime past held his palace) and
runneth to Sandwich hauen, as the said authour reporteth: and the
fourth called Bridgewater that riseth by S. Marie Burne church, and
going by Bishops Burne, meeteth with Canturburie water at Stourmouth:
also Wiham that riseth aboue Wiham short of Adsam, and falleth into
Bridgewater at Dudmill, or Wenderton: and the third namelesse, which
riseth short of Wodensburgh (a towne wherein Hengist & the Saxons
honored their grand idoll Woden, or Othine) and goeth by Staple to
Wingam: but sith they are obscure I will not touch them here. From
hence passing by the Goodwine, a plot verie perilous for sea-faring
men (sometime firme land, that is, vntill the tenth of the conquerours
sonne, whose name was William Rufus, and wherein a great part of the
inheritance of erle Goodwine in time past was knowne to lie) but
[Sidenote: Dour.]
escaping it with ease, we came at length to Douer. In all which voiage
we found no streame, by reason of the cliffes that inuiron the said
coast. Howbeit vpon the south side of Douer, there is a pretie fresh
riuer, whose head ariseth at Erwell, not passing foure miles from the
sea, and of some is called Dour, which in the British toong is a
common name for waters, as is also the old British word Auon for the
greatest riuers, into whose mouthes or falles shippes might find safe
entrance; and therefore such are in my time called hauens, a new word
growen by an aspiration added to the old: the Scots call it Auen. But
more of this else-where, sith I am now onelie to speake of Dour,
wherof it is likelie that the towne & castell of Douer did sometime
take the name. From hence we go toward the Camber (omitting
peraduenture here and there sundrie small creeks void of backwater by
[Sidenote: Rother.]
the waie) whereabouts the Rother a noble riuer falleth into the sea.
This Rother separateth Sussex from Kent, and hath his head in Sussex,
not farre from Argas hill néere to Waterden forrest, and from thence
directeth his course vnto Rotherfield. After this it goeth to
Ethlingham or Hitchingham, and so foorth by Newendon vnto Mattham
ferrie, where it diuideth it selfe in such wise, that one branch
thereof goeth to Appledoure (where is a castell sometime builded by
the Danes, in the time of Alfred, as they did erect another at
Middleton, and the third at Beamflete) and at this towne, where it
[Sidenote: Bilie.]
méeteth the Bilie that riseth about Bilsington, the other by Iden, so
that it includeth a fine parcell of ground called Oxneie, which in
time past was reputed as a parcell of Sussex; but now vpon some
occasion or other (to me vnknowne) annexed vnto Kent. From hence also
growing into some greatnesse, it runneth to Rie, where it méeteth
[Sidenote: Becke.]
finallie with the Becke, which commeth from Beckleie: so that the plot
wherein Rie standeth, is in manner a by-land or peninsula, as
experience doth confirme. Leland and most men are of the likeliest
[Sidenote: Limenus.]
opinion, that this riuer should be called the Limen, which (as Peter
of Cornhull saith) doth issue out of Andredeswald, where the head
thereof is knowne to be. Certes, I am of the opinion, that it is
called the Rother vnto Appledoure, & from thence the Limen, bicause
the Danes are noted to enter into these parts by the Limen; and
sailing on the same to Appledoure, did there begin to fortifie, as I
haue noted alreadie. Howbeit, in our time it is knowne by none other
name than the Rother or Appledoure water, whereof let this suffice.
Being thus crossed ouer to the west side of Rie hauen, & in vewing the
issues that fall into the same, I meet first of all with a water that
groweth of two brookes, which come downe by one chanell into the east
side of the mouth of the said port. The first therfore that falleth
into it descendeth from Beckleie or thereabouts (as I take it) the
next runneth along by Pesemarsh, & soone after ioining with all, they
hold on as one, till they fall into the same at the westerlie side of
Rie: the third streame commeth from the north, and as it mounteth vp
not farre from Munfield, so it runneth betweene Sescambe and
Wacklinton néere vnto Bread, taking another rill withall that riseth
(as I heare) not verie far from Westfield. There is likewise a fourth
that groweth of two heads betweene Ielingham and Pet, and going by
Winchelseie it méeteth with all about Rie hauen, so that Winchelseie
standeth inuironed on thrée parts with water, and the streames of
these two that I haue last rehearsed.
The water that falleth into the Ocean, a mile by southwest of,
[Sidenote: Aestus.]
Hastings or therabouts, is called Æstus or Asten: perhaps of Hasten or
Hasting the Dane, (who in time past was a plague to France and
England) & rising not far from Penhirst, it meeteth with the sea (as I
[Sidenote: Buluerhithe.]
heare) by east of Hollington. Buluerhith is but a creeke (as I
remember) serued with no backewater; and so I heare of Codding or Old
hauen, wherefore I meane not to touch them.
[Sidenote: Peuenseie.]
Into Peuenseie hauen diuerse waters doo resort, and of these, that
which entereth into the same on the east side riseth out from two
[Sidenote: Ash.]
[Sidenote: Burne.]
heads, whereof the most easterlie is called Ash, the next vnto the
Burne, and vniting themselues not farre from Ashburne, they continue
their course vnder the name and tide of Ashburne water, as I read. The
second that commeth thereinto issueth also of two heads, whereof the
one is so manie miles from Boreham, the other not far from the Parke
east of Hellingstowne, and both of them concurring southwest of
Hirstmowsen, they direct their course toward Peuenseie (beneath which
they méet with another rising at Foington) and thence go in one
chanell for a mile or more, till they fall togither into Peuenseie
[Sidenote: Cucomarus.]
hauen. The Cuckmer issueth out at seuerall places, and hereof the more
easterlie branch commeth from Warbleton ward, the other from Bishops
wood, and méeting beneath Halling, they run one bottome by Micham,
Arlington, Wellington, old Frithstan, and so into the sea.
[Sidenote: Isis.]
[Sidenote: Ni fallor.]
Vnto the water that commeth out at Newhauen, sundrie brookes and
riuerets doo resort, but the chiefe head riseth toward the west,
somewhat betwéene Etchinford and Shepleie, as I heare. The first water
therefore that falleth into the same on the east side, issueth out of
the ground about Vertwood, and running from thence by Langhton and
Ripe, on the west side; it falleth into the aforesaid riuer beneath
Forle and Glime, or thrée miles lower than Lewis, if the other buttall
like you not. The next herevnto hath his head in Argas hill, the third
descendeth from Ashedon forrest, and ioining with the last mentioned,
they crosse the maine riuer a little beneath Isefield. The fourth
water commeth from Ashedon forrest by Horstéed Caines (or Ousestate
Caines) and falleth into the same, likewise east of Linfield. Certes I
am deceiued if this riuer be not called Isis, after it is past
[Sidenote: Sturewell.]
Isefield. The fift riseth about Storuelgate, and meeteth also with the
maine streame aboue Linfield, and these are knowen to lie vpon the
right hand as we rowed vp the riuer. On the other side are onelie two,
whereof the first hath his originall neere vnto Wenefield, and holding
on his course toward the east, it meeteth with his maister betweene
Newicke and Isefield (or Ifield) as some read it. The last of all
[Sidenote: Plimus.]
commeth from Plimodune or Plumpton, and hauing met in like sort with
the maine riuer about Barcham, it runneth foorth with it, & they rest
in one chanell by Barcham, Hamseie, Malling, Lewis, Piddingburne, and
so foorth into the maine.
[Sidenote: Soru.]
The next riuer that we came vnto west of Brighthemston is the Sore,
which notwithstanding I find to be called Brember water, in the
ancient map of Marton colledge in Oxford: but in such sort (as I take
it) as the Rother or Limen is called Appledoure streame, bicause of
the said towne that standeth thervpon. But to procéed, it is a
pleasant water, & thereto if you consider the situation of his armes,
and branches from the higher grounds, verie much resembling a foure
stringed whip. Whereabout the head of this riuer is, or which of these
branches may safelie be called Sora from the rising, in good sooth I
cannot say. For after we had passed nine or ten mils thereon vp into
the land, suddenlie the crosse waters stopped vs, so that we were
inforced to turne either east or west, for directlie foorth right we
had no waie to go. The first arme on the right hand as we went, riseth
out of a parke by south of Alborne, and going on for a certeine space
toward the northwest, it turneth southward betwéene Shermonburie and
[Sidenote: Bimarus.]
Twinham, and soone after méeteth with the Bimar, not much south from
Shermonburie, whence they run togither almost two miles, till they
fall into the Sore. That on the west side descendeth from about
Billingeshirst, & going toward the east, it crosseth with the fourth
(which riseth a litle by west of Thacam) east from Pulborow, and so
they run as one into the Sore, that after this confluence hasteth it
selfe southward by Brember, Burleis, the Combes, and yer long into the
Ocean.
[Sidenote: Arunus.]
The Arun (of which beside Arundell towne the castell and the vallie
wherin it runneth is called Vallis Aruntina, or Arundale in English)
is a goodlie water, and thereto increased with no small number of
excellent & pleasant brookes. It springeth vp of two heads, whereof
one descendeth from the north not far from Gretham, and going by Lis,
méeteth with the next streame (as I gesse) about Doursford house. The
second riseth by west from the hils that lie toward the rising of the
sunne from East maine, and runneth by Peterfield. The third commeth
from Beriton ward, and ioineth with the second betwéene Peterfield and
Doursford, after which confluence they go togither in one chanell
still toward the east (taking a rill with them that c[=o]mmeth
betwéene Fernehirst and S. Lukes chappell, southwest of Linchmere, and
meeting with it east of Loddesworth (as I doo read, and likewise
sundrie other in one chanell beneath Stopham) to Waltham, Burie,
Houghton, Stoke, Arundell, Tortington ford, Climping (all on the west
side) and so into the sea.
Hauing thus described the west side of Arun, let vs doo the like with
the other in such sort as we best may. The first riuer that we come
vnto therfore on the east side, and also the second, rise of sundrie
places in S. Leonards forrest, & ioining a little aboue Horsham, they
méet with the third, which commeth from Ifield parke, not verie farre
from Slinfeld. The fourth hath two heads, whereof one riseth in
Witleie parke, the other by west, neere vnto Heselméere chappell, and
meeting by west of Doursfeld, they vnite themselues with the chanell,
growing by the confluence that I spake of beneath Slinfeld, a little
aboue Billingshirst. The last water commeth from the hils aboue
Linchemere, and runneth west and south, and passing betwéene
Billingshirst and Stopham it commeth vnto the chanell last mentioned,
and so into the Arun beneath Stopham, without anie further increase,
at the least that I doo heare of.
[Sidenote: Burne.]
Burne hath his issue in a parke néere Aldingburrie (or rather a little
aboue the same toward the north, as I haue since beene informed) and
running by the bottomes toward the south, it falleth betwéene north
[Sidenote: Elin.]
Berflete and Flesham. Erin riseth of sundrie heads, by east of
Erinleie, and directing his course toward the sunne rising, it
peninsulateth Seleseie towne on the southwest and Pagham at northwest.
[Sidenote: Del[=u]s.]
Deel springeth about Benderton, and thence running betwéene middle
Lauant and east Lauant, it goeth by west of west Hampnet, by east of
Chichester, or west of Rumbaldesdowne, and afterward by Fishburne,
where it meeteth with a rill comming north west from Funtingdon (a
little beneath the towne) & then running thus in one streame toward
the sea, it méeteth with another rillet comming by north of Bosham,
and so into Auant gulfe by east of Thorneie Iland.
[Sidenote: Racunus.]
The Racon riseth by east of Racton or Racodunum (as Leland calleth it)
and comming by Chidham, it falleth into the sea, northeast of Thorneie
[Sidenote: Emill.]
aforesaid. The Emill commeth first betwéene Racton and Stansted, then
downe to Emilsworth or Emmesworth, & so vnto the Ocean, separating
Sussex from Hampshire almost from the very head. Hauing in this maner
passed along the coasts of Sussex, the next water that I remember,
riseth by east of the forrest of Estbirie, from whence it goeth by
Southwike, west Burhunt, Farham, and so into the gulfe almost full
[Sidenote: Badunus forte.]
south. Then come we to Bedenham creeke (so called of a village
standing thereby) the mouth whereof lieth almost directlie against
Porchester castell, which is situat about three miles by water from
Portesmouth towne, as Leland dooth report. Then go we within halfe a
[Sidenote: Forten or Fordon.]
mile further to Forten creeke, which either giueth or taketh name of a
[Sidenote: Osterpoole.]
village hard by. After this we come to Osterpoole lake, a great
créeke, that goeth vp by west into the land, and lieth not far from a
round turret of stone, from whence also there goeth a chaine to
another tower on the east side directlie ouer against it, the like
whereof is to be séene in diuerse other hauens of the west countrie,
wherby the entrance of great vessels into that part may be at pleasure
restreined.
From hence we go further to Tichefeld water, that riseth about
[Sidenote: Tichefield.]
Eastmaine parke, ten or twelue miles by northeast or there abouts from
Tichefeld. From Eastmaine it goeth (parting the forrests of Waltham,
and Eastberie by the way) to Wicham or Wicombe, a pretie market towne
& large throughfare, where also the water separateth it selfe into two
armelets, and going vnder two bridges of wood commeth yer long againe
vnto one chanell. From hence it goeth three or foure miles further, to
a bridge of timber by maister Writhoseleies house (leauing Tichfeld
towne on the right side) and a little beneath runneth vnder Ware
bridge, whither the sea floweth as hir naturall course inforceth.
Finallie, within a mile of this bridge it goeth into the water of
Hampton hauen, whervnto diuerse streames resort, as you shall heare
hereafter.
[Sidenote: Hamelrish.]
After this we come to Hamble hauen, or Hamelrish créeke, whose fall is
betwéene saint Andrewes castell, and Hoke. It riseth about Shidford in
Waltham forrest, & when it is past Croke bridge, it méeteth with
another brooke, which issueth not farre from Bishops Waltham, out of
sundrie springs in the high waie on Winchester, from whence it passeth
(as I said) by Bishops Waltham, then to Budeleie or Botleie, and then
ioining with the Hamble, they run togither by Prowlingsworth, Vpton,
Brusill, Hamble towne, and so into the sea.
[Sidenote: Southhampton.]
Now come we to the hauen of Southhampton, by Ptolomie called Magnus
portus, which I will briefelie describe so néere as I can possiblie.
The bredth or entrie of the mouth hereof (as I take it) is by
estimation two miles from shore to shore. At the west point therof
also is a strong castell latelie builded, which is rightlie named
Caldshore, but now Cawshot, I wote not by what occasion. On the east
side thereof also is a place called Hoke (afore mentioned) or Hamell
hoke; wherein are not aboue thrée or foure fisher houses, not worthie
to be remembred. This hauen shooteth vp on the west side by the space
of seuen miles, vntill it come to Hampton towne, standing on the other
side, where it is by estimation a mile from land to land. Thence it
goeth vp further about thrée miles to Redbridge, still ebbing and
flowing thither, and one mile further, so farre as my memorie dooth
serue mée. Now it resteth that I describe the Alresford streame, which
some doo call the Arre or Arle, and I will procéed withall in this
order following.
[Sidenote: Alresford.]
The Alresford beginneth of diuerse faire springs, about a mile or more
fr[=o] Alresford, or Alford as it is now called, and soone after
resorting to one bottome, they become a broad lake, which for the most
part is called Alford pond. Afterward returning againe to a narrow
chanell, it goeth through a stone bridge at the end of Alford towne
(leauing the towne it selfe on the left hand) toward Hicthingstocke
thrée miles off, but yer it commeth there, it receiueth two rils in
one bottome, whereof one commeth from the Forrest in maner at hand,
and by northwest of old Alresford, the other fr[=o] Browne Candiuer,
that goeth by Northenton, Swarewotton, Aberstone, &c: vntill we méet
with the said water beneath Alford towne. Being past Hichinstocke, it
commeth by Auington to Eston village, and to Woorthie, where it
beginneth to branch, and ech arme to part it selfe into other that
resort to Hide and the lower soiles by east of Winchester, there
seruing the stréets, the close of S. Maries, Wolueseie, and the new
college verie plentifullie with their water. But in this meane while,
the great streame commeth from Worthie to the east bridge, and so to
saint Elizabeth college, where it dooth also part in twaine,
enuironing the said house in most delectable maner. After this it
goeth toward S. Crosses, leauing it a quarter of a mile on the right
hand: then to Twiford (a mile lower) where it gathereth againe into
[Sidenote: Otter.]
one bottome, and goeth six miles further to Woodmill, taking the Otter
brooke withall on the east side, and so into the salt créeke that
leadeth downe to the hauen.
On the other side of Southhampton, there resorteth into this hauen
[Sidenote: Stocke.]
also both the Test & the Stockbridge water in one bottome, whereof I
find this large description insuing. The verie head of the
Stockewater, is supposed to be somewhere about Basing stoke, or church
Hockleie, and going from thence betwéene Ouerton and Steuenton, it
commeth at last by Lauerstocke & Whitchurch, and soone after receiuing
[Sidenote: Bourne.]
a brooke by northwest, called the Bourne (descending from S. Marie
Bourne, southeast from Horsseburne) it procéedeth by Long paroch and
the wood, till it meet with the Cranburne, on the east side (a pretie
riuelet rising about Michelneie, and going by Fullington, Barton, and
to Cramburne) thence to Horwell in one bottome, beneath which it
meeteth with the Andeuer water, that is increased yer it come there by
an other brooke, whose name I doo not know. This Andeuer streame
riseth in Culhamshire forrest, not far by north from Andeuer towne,
and going to vpper Clatford, yer it touch there it receiueth the rill
of which I spake before, which rising also néere vnto Anport, goeth to
Monketon, to Abbatesham, the Andeuer, and both (as I said) vnto the
Test beneath Horwell, whereof I spake euen now.
These streames being thus brought into one bottome, it runneth toward
the south vnder Stockbridge, and soone after diuiding it selfe in
twaine, one branch thereof goeth by Houghton, & a little beneath
meeteth with a rill, that commeth from bywest of S. Ans hil, and goeth
by east of vpper Wallop, west of nether Wallop, by Bucholt forrest,
[Sidenote: Valopius.]
Broughton, and called (as I haue béene informed) the Gallop, but now
it is named Wallop. The other arme runneth through the parke, by north
west of kings Somburne, and vniting themselues againe, they go forth
[Sidenote: Test.]
by Motteshunt, and then receiue the Test, a pretie water rising in
Clarendun parke, that goeth by west Deane, and east Deane, so to
Motteshunt, and finallie to the aforesaid water, which from
thencefoorth is called the Test, euen vnto the sea. But to procéed.
After this confluence, it taketh the gate to Kimbebridge, then to
Rumseie, Longbridge, and beneath the same receiueth a concourse of two
rilles whereof the one commeth from Sherefield, the other from the new
Forrest, and ioining in Wadeleie parke, they beat vpon the Test, not
verie farre from Murseling. From thence the Test goeth vnder a pretie
bridge, before it come at Redbridge, from whence it is not long yer it
fall into the hauen.
The next riuer that runneth into this port, springeth in the new
[Sidenote: Eling.]
Forrest, and commeth thereinto about Eling, not passing one mile by
west of the fall of Test. From hence casting about againe into the
maine sea, and leauing Calde shore castell on the right hand, we
directed our course toward the southwest, vnto Beaulieu hauen,
[Sidenote: Mineie.]
whereinto the Mineie descendeth. The Mineie riseth not far from
Mineiestéed, a village in the north part of the new Forrest; and going
by Beaulieu, it falleth into the sea southwest (as I take it) of
Exburie, a village standing vpon the shore.
[Sidenote: Limen.]
Being past the Mineie, we crossed the Limen as it is now called, whose
head is in the verie hart of the new Forrest (sometime conuerted into
a place of nourishment for déere by William Rufus, buieng his pleasure
with the ruine of manie towns and villages, as diuerse haue inclosed
or inlarged their parks by the spoile of better occupiengs) & running
southwest of Lindhirst & the parke, it goeth by east of Brokenhirst,
west of Bulder, & finallie into the sea south and by east of
Lemington. I take this not to be the proper name of the water, but of
the hauen, for Limen in Gréeke is an hauen: so that Limendune is
nothing else, but a downe or higher plot of ground lieng on the hauen:
neuerthelesse, sith this denomination of the riuer hath now hir frée
passage, I think it not conuenient to séeke out any other name that
should be giuen vnto it. The next fall that we passed by is namelesse,
[Sidenote: Bure.]
[Sidenote: Milis.]
except it be called Bure, & as it descendeth from new Forrest, so the
next vnto it hight Mile, as I haue heard in English. Certes the head
thereof is also in the southwest part of the said Forrest, & the fall
not far from Milford bridge, beyond the which I find a narrow going or
strictland leading fr[=o] the point to Hirst castell which standeth
into the sea, as if it hoong by a thred, from the maine of the Iland,
readie to be washed awaie by the continuall working and dailie beating
of the waues.
[Sidenote: Auon.]
The next riuer that we came vnto of anie name is the Auon, which (as
Leland saith) riseth by northeast, and not far from Woolfehall in
Wiltshire, supposed to be the same which Ptolomie called Halenus. The
first notable bridge that it runneth vnto, is at Vphauen, thence foure
miles further it goeth to little Ambresburie, and there is another
bridge, from thence to Woodford village, standing at the right hand
banke, and Newton village on the left. The bishops of Sarum had a
proper manor place at Woodford, which bishop Sharton pulled downe
altogither, bicause it was somewhat in ruine. Thence it goeth to
Fisherton bridge, to Cranebridge, old Salisburie, new Salisburie, and
finallie to Harnham, which is a statelie bridge of stone, of six
arches at the least. There is at the west end of the said bridge, a
little Iland, that lieth betwixt this and another bridge, of foure
pretie arches, and vnder this later runneth a good round streame,
which (as I take it) is a branch of Auon, that breaketh out a little
aboue, & soone after it reuniteth it selfe againe: or else that Wilton
water hath there his entrie into the Auon, which I cannot yet
determine. From Harneham bridge it goeth to Dounton, that is about
foure miles, and so much in like sort from thence to Fordingbridge, to
Ringwood bridge fiue miles, to Christes church Twinham fiue miles, and
streight into the sea; and hitherto Leland of this streame, which for
the worthinesse thereof (in mine opinion) is not sufficientlie
described. Wherefore I thinke good to deliuer a second receiued of
another, which in more particular maner dooth exhibit his course vnto
vs.
Certes this Auon is a goodlie riuer, rising (as I said before néere)
vnto Wolfe hall; although he that will séeke more scrupulouslie for
the head in déed, must looke for the same about the borders of the
forrest of Sauernake (that is Soure oke) which lieth as if it were
imbraced betwéene the first armes thereof, as I haue beene informed.
These heads also doo make a confluence by east of Martinshall hill,
and west of Wootton. From whence it goeth to Milton, Powseie,
Manningfield abbeie, Manningfield crosse, and beneath Newington taketh
in one rill west from Rudborow, and another a little lower that riseth
also west of Alcanninges, and runneth into the same by Patneie,
Merden, Wilford, Charleton, and Rustisall. Being therefore past
Newington, it goeth to Vphauen (whereof Leland speaketh) to
Chesilburie, Compton, Ablington, little Almsburie, Darntford,
Woodford, old Salisburie, and so to new Salisburie, where it receiueth
one notable riuer from by northwest, & another from north east, which
two I will first describe, leauing the Auon at Salisburie for a while.
[Sidenote: Wilugh.]
The first of these is called the Wilugh, whereof the whole shire dooth
take hir name, and not of the great plentie of willowes growing
therein, as some fantasticall heads doo imagine: whereof also there is
more plentie in that countrie than is to be found in other places. It
riseth among the Deuerels, and running thence by hill Deuerell, &
Deuerell long bridge, it goeth toward Bishops straw, taking in one
rill by west & another from Vpton by Werminster at northwest. From
Bishops straw it goeth to Norton, Vpton, Badhampton, Steplinford, and
Stapleford, where it meeteth with the Winterburie water from by north,
descending from Maddenton by Winterburne. From Stapleford it hasteth
to Wishford, Newton, Chilhampton, Wilton: and thither commeth a water
vnto it from southwest, which riseth of two heads aboue Ouerdonet.
After this it goeth by Wordcastell, to Tisburie, and there receiueth a
water on ech side, whereof one commeth from Funthill, the other from
two issues (of which one riseth at Austie, the other at Swalodise) and
so keeping on still with his course, our Wilugh runneth next of all by
Sutton. Thence it goeth to Fouant, Boberstocke, Southburcombe, Wilton
[Sidenote: Nader becke.]
(where it taketh in the Fomington or Nader water) Westharnam,
Salisburie, and Eastharnam: and this is the race of Wilugh.
The other is a naked arme or streame without anie branches. It riseth
aboue Colingburne Kingston in the hils, and thence it goeth to
Colingburne, the Tidworths (whereof the more southerlie is in
Wiltshire) Shipton, Cholterton, Newton, Toneie, Idmerson, Porton, the
Winterburns, Lauerstocke, and so into Auon east of Salisburie. And
thus is the confluence made of the aforesaid waters, with this our
[Sidenote: Becquith brooke.]
second Auon, whereinto another water falleth (called Becquithes
brooke) a mile beneath Harneham bridge, whose head is fiue miles from
Sarum, and thrée miles aboue Becquithes bridge, as Leland doth
[Sidenote: Chalkeburne.]
remember, who noteth the Chalkeburne water to haue his due recourse
also at this place into the aforesaid riuer. Certes it is a pretie
brooke, and riseth six miles from Shaftesburie, and in the waie toward
Salisburie in a bottome on the right hand, whence it commeth by
Knighton and Fennistratford, to Honington, that is about twelue miles
from the head, and about two miles and an halfe from Honington beneath
Odstocke, goeth into the Auon, a mile lower than Harnham bridge,
except he forget himselfe. This Harnham, whereof I now intreat, was
sometime a pretie village before the erection of new Salisburie, and
had a church of S. Martine belonging vnto it, but now in stéed of this
church, there is onelie a barne standing in a verie low mead on the
northside of S. Michaels hospitall. The cause of the relinquishing of
it was the moistnesse of the soile, verie oft ouerflowne. And whereas
the kings high waie laie sometime through Wilton, licence was obteined
of the king and Richard bishop of Salisburie, to remooue that passage
vnto new Salisburie in like maner, and vpon this occasion was the
[Sidenote: Thrée towns decaied by changing one waie.]
maine bridge made ouer Auon at Harneham. By this exchange of the waie
also old Salisburie fell into vtter decaie, & Wilton which was before
the head towne of the shire, and furnished with twelue parish
churches, grew to be but a poore village, and of small reputation.
Howbeit, this was not the onelie cause of the ruine of old Salisburie,
sith I read of two other, whereof the first was a salue vnto the
latter, as I take it. For whereas it was giuen out, that the townesmen
wanted water in old Salisburie, it is flat otherwise; sith that hill
is verie plentifullie serued with springs and wels of verie swéet
water. The truth of the matter therefore is this.
[Sidenote: An holie conflict.]
In the time of ciuill warres, the souldiors of the castell and chanons
of old Sarum fell at ods, insomuch that after often bralles, they fell
at last to sad blowes. It happened therefore in a rogation weeke that
the cleargie going in solemne procession, a controuersie fell betwéene
them about certeine walkes and limits, which the one side claimed and
the other denied. Such also was the hot intertainment on ech part,
that at the last the Castellanes espieng their time, gate betwéene the
cleargie and the towne, and so coiled them as they returned homeward,
that they feared anie more to gang about their bounds for the yeare.
Héerevpon the people missing their bellie cheare (for they were woont
to haue banketing at euerie station, a thing commonlie practised by
the religious in old time, wherewith to linke in the commons vnto
them, whom anie man may lead whither he will by the bellie, or as
Latimer said, with beefe, bread and beere) they conceiued foorthwith a
deadlie hatred against the Castellans. But not being able to cope with
them by force of armes, they consulted with Richard Pore their bishop,
and he with them so effectuallie, that it was not long yer they, I
meane the chanons, began a new church vpon a péece of their owne
ground called Mirifield, pretending to serue God there in better
safetie, and with far more quietnesse than they could doo before. This
[Sidenote: New Salisburie begun.]
church was begun 1219, the nine and twentith of Aprill, and finished
with the expenses of 42000 marks, in the yeare 1260, and fiue &
twentith of March, whereby it appeereth that it was aboue fortie yéers
in hand, although the clearks were translated to the new towne 1220,
or the third yeere after the fraie. The people also séeing the
diligence of the chanons, and reputing their harmes for their owne
inconuenience, were as earnest on the other side to be néere vnto
these prelats, and therefore euerie man brought his house vnto that
place, & thus became old Sarum in few yeeres vtterlie desolate, and
new Salisburie raised vp in stéed thereof, to the great decaie also of
Harnham and Wilton, whereof I spake of late. Neuerthelesse it should
séeme to me that this new citie is not altogither void of some great
hinderances now and then by water: for in the second of Edward the
second (who held a parlement there) there was a sudden thaw after a
great frost, which caused the waters so fast to arise, that euen at
high masse time the water came into the minster, and not onelie
ouerflowed the nether part of the same, but came vp all to the kings
pauase where he sate, whereby he became wetshod, and in the end
inforced to leaue the church, as the executour did his masse, least
they should all haue béene drowned: and this rage indured there for
the space of two daies, wherevpon no seruice could be said in the said
minster.
Now to returne againe from whence I thus digressed. Our Auon therefore
departing from Salisburie, goeth by Burtford, Longford, and taking in
the waters afore mentioned by the waie, it goeth by Stanleie,
Dunketon, Craiford, Burgate, Fording bridge, Ringwood, Auon, Christes
church; and finallie into the sea. But yer it come all there & a litle
[Sidenote: Sturus.]
beneth Christes church, it crosseth the Stoure or Sture, a verie faire
streame, whose course is such as may not be left vntouched. It riseth
of six heads, whereof thrée lie on the north side of the parke at
Sturton within the pale, the other rise without the parke; & of this
riuer the towne and baronie of Sturton dooth take his name as I gesse,
for except my memorie do too much faile me, the lord Sturton giueth
the six heads of the said water in his armes. But to procéed. After
these branches are conioined in one bottome, it goeth to long Laime
mill, Stilton, Milton, and beneath Gillingham receiueth a water that
descendeth from Mere. Thence the Sture goeth to Bugleie, Stoure,
[Sidenote: Cale.]
Westouer bridge, Stoure prouost, and yer long it taketh in the Cale
water, from Pen that commeth downe by Wickhampton to Moreland, & so to
Stapleford, seuen miles from Wickhampton, passing in the said voiage,
by Wine Caunton, and the fiue bridges. After this confluence, it
[Sidenote: Lidden.]
[Sidenote: Deuilis.]
runneth to Hinton Maries, and soone after crosseth the Lidden and
Deuilis waters all in one chanell, whereof the first riseth in
Blackemore vale, and goeth to the bishops Caundell: the second in the
hils south of Pulham, and so runneth to Lidlinch; the third water
[Sidenote: Iber.]
issueth néere Ibberton, and going by Fifehed to Lidlington, and there
[Sidenote: Blackewater.]
méeting with the Lidden, they receiue the Blackewater aboue Bagburne,
and so go into the Stoure.
After this the Stoure runneth on to Stoureton minster, Fitleford,
Hammond, and soone after taking in one water that commeth from
Hargraue by west Orchard, and a second from Funtmill, it goeth on to
Chele, Ankeford, Handford, Durweston, Knighton, Brainston, Blandford,
Charleton: and crossing yer long a rill that riseth about Tarrent, and
goeth to Launston, Munketon, Caunston, Tarrant, it proceedeth foorth
by Shepwijc, and by and by receiuing another brooke on the right hand,
that riseth about Strictland, and goeth by Quarleston, Whitchurch,
Anderston, and Winterburne, it hasteth forward to Stoureminster,
Berford lake, Alen bridge, Winburne, aliàs Twinburne minster, whither
commeth a water called Alen (from Knolton, Wikehampton, Estambridge,
Hinton, Barnsleie) which hath two heads, whereof one riseth short of
Woodcotes, and east of Farneham, named Terig, the other at Munketon
aboue S. Giles Winburne, and going thence to S. Giles Ashleie, it
taketh in the Horton becke, as the Horton dooth the Cranburne.
Finallie, meeting with the Terig aboue Knolton, they run on vnder the
[Sidenote: This Stoure aboundeth with pike, perch, roch,
dace, gudgeon and éeles.]
name of Alen to the Stoure, which goeth to the Canfords, Preston,
Kingston, Perleie, and Yolnest: but yer it come at Yolnest it taketh
in two brookes in one bottome, whereof one commeth from Woodland parke
by Holt parke, and Holt, another from aboue vpper Winburne, by
Edmondesham, Vertwood, and Mannington, and ioining about S. Leonards,
they go to Hornebridge, and so into Stoure. After which confluence,
the said Stoure runneth by Iuor bridge, and so into Auon, leauing
Christs church aboue the méeting of the said waters (as I haue said
before.)
[Sidenote: Burne.]
Hauing in this maner passed Christes church head we come to the fall
of the Burne, which is a little brooke running from Stourefield heath,
without branches; from whence we proceeded: & the next fall that we
[Sidenote: Poole.]
come vnto is Poole, from whose mouth vpon the shore, by southwest in a
baie of thrée miles off, is a poore fisher towne called Sandwich,
where we saw a péere and a little fresh brooke. The verie vtter part
of saint Adelmes point, is fiue miles from Sandwich. In another baie
lieth west Lilleworth, where (as I heare) is some profitable
harborough for ships. The towne of Poole is from Winburne about foure
miles, and it standeth almost as an Ile in the hauen. The hauen it
selfe also, if a man should measure it by the circuit, wanteth little
of twentie miles, as I did gesse by the view.
Going therefore into the same, betwéene the north and the south
points, to sée what waters were there, we left Brunkeseie Iland, and
the castell on the left hand within the said points; and passing about
by Pole, and leauing that créeke, bicause it hath no fresh, we came by
Holton and Kesworth, where we beheld two falles, of which one was
called the north, the other the south waters. The north streame hight
[Sidenote: Piddle.]
Piddle as I heare. It riseth about Alton, and goeth from thence to
Piddle trench head, Piddle hinton, Walterstow, and yer it come at
[Sidenote: Deuils.]
Birstam, receiueth Deuils brooke that commeth thither from Brugham and
Melcombe by Deuilish towne. Thence it goeth to Tow piddle, Ashe
piddle, Turners piddle (taking in yer it come there, a water that
runneth from Helton by Middleton, Milburne & Biere) then to Hide, and
so into Pole hauen, and of this water Marianus Scotus speaketh, except
[Sidenote: Frome.]
I be deceiued. The south water is properlie called Frome for Frame. It
riseth néere vnto Euershot, and going downe by Fromequitaine,
Chelmington, and Catstocke, it receiueth there a rill from beside
Rowsham, and Wraxehall. After this it goeth on to Chilfrome, and
[Sidenote: Ocus.]
thence to Maden Newton, where it méeteth with the Owke, that riseth
either two miles aboue Hoke parke at Kenford, or in the great pond
within Hoke parke, and going by the Tollards, falleth into the Frome
about Maden Newton, & so go as one from thence to Fromevauchirch,
Crokewaie, Frampton, and Muckilford, and receiueth néere vnto the same
a rill from aboue Vpsidling by S. Nicholas Sidling, and Grimston. From
hence it goeth on by Stratton and Bradford Peuerell, and beneath this
[Sidenote: Silleie.]
[Sidenote: Minterne.]
[Sidenote: Cherne.]
Bradford, it crosseth the Silleie aliàs Minterne and Cherne brooks
both in one chanell: whereof the first riseth in vpper Cherne parish,
the other at Minterne, and méeting aboue middle Cherne, they go by
nether Cherne, Forston, Godmanston, and aboue Charneminster into
Frome. In the meane time also our Frome brancheth and leaueth an Iland
aboue Charneminster, and ioining againe néere Dorchester, it goeth by
Dorchester, and Forthington; but yer it come at Beckington, it méeteth
with another Becke that runneth thereinto from Winterburne, Stapleton,
Martinstow, Heringstow, Caine and Stafford, and from thence goeth
without anie further increase as yet to Beckington, Knighton,
Tinkleton, Morton, Wooll, Bindon, Stoke, & beneath Stoke receiueth the
[Sidenote: Luckford.]
issue of the Luckford lake, from whence also it passeth by Eastholme,
[Sidenote: Séeke more for Wilie brooke that goeth by
West burie to Pole hauen.]
Warham, and so into the Baie. From this fall we went about the arme
point by Slepe, where we saw a little créeke, then by Owre, where we
beheld an other, & then comming againe toward the entrance by saint
Helens, and Furleie castell, we went abroad into the maine, and found
ourselues at libertie.
When we were past Pole hauen, we left the Handfast point, the Peuerell
point, S. Adelmes chappell, and came at last to Lughport hauen,
whereby and also the Luckeford lake, all this portion of ground last
remembred, is left in maner of a byland or peninsula, and called the
Ile of Burbecke, wherein is good store of alum and hard stone. In like
sort going still westerlie, we came to Sutton points, where is a
créeke. Then vnto Waie or Wilemouth, by kings Welcombe, which is
twentie miles from Pole, and whose head is not full foure miles aboue
the hauen by northwest at Vphill in the side of a great hill. Hereinto
when we were entred, we saw three falles, whereof the first and
greatest commeth from Vpweie by Bradweie, and Radipoole, receiuing
afterward the second that ran from east Chekerell, and likewise the
third that maketh the ground betwéene Weimouth and Smalmouth passage
almost an Iland. There is a little barre of sand at the hauen mouth,
and a great arme of the sea runneth vp by the right hand; and scant a
mile aboue the hauen mouth on the shore, is a right goodlie and
warlike castell made, which hath one open barbicane. This arme runneth
vp also further by a mile as in a baie, to a point of land where a
passage is into Portland, by a little course of pibble sand. It goeth
vp also from the said passage vnto Abbatsbirie about seauen miles off,
where a litle fresh rondell resorteth to the sea. And somewhat aboue
[Sidenote: Chesill.]
this, is the head or point of the Chesill lieng northwest, which
stretcheth vp from thence about seauen miles, as a maine narrow banke,
by a right line vnto the southeast, and there abutteth vpon Portland
scant a quarter of a mile aboue the Newcastle there. The nature of
this banke is such, that so often as the wind bloweth vehementlie at
southeast, so often the sea beateth in, and losing the banke soketh
through it: so that if this wind should blow from that corner anie
long time togither, Portland should be left an Iland as it hath béene
before. But as the southwest wind dooth appaire this banke, so a
northwest dooth barre it vp againe. It is pretie to note of the
Townelet of Waimouth, which lieth streight against Milton on the other
side, and of this place where the water of the hauen is but of small
breadth, that a rope is commonlie tied from one side of the shore to
another, whereby the ferrie men doo guide their botes without anie
helpe of Ores. But to procéed with our purpose. Into the mouth of this
riuer doo ships often come for succour.
Going by Portland and the point thereof called the Rase, we sailed
along by the Shingle, till we came by saint Katharins chappell, where
we saw the fall of a water that came downe from Blackdéene Beaconward,
by Portsham and Abbatsburie. Thence we went to another that fell into
the sea, neere Birton, and descended from Litton by Chilcombe, then
[Sidenote: Bride.]
vnto the Bride or Brute port, a pretie hauen, and the riuer it selfe
serued with sundrie waters. It riseth halfe a mile or more aboue
[Sidenote: Nature hath set the mouth of this riuer in maner betwixt
two hils, so that a little cost would make an hau[=e] there.]
Bemister, and so goeth from Bemister to Netherburie by Parneham, then
to Melplash, and so to Briteport, where it taketh in two waters from
by east in one chanell, of which one riseth east of Nettlecort, and
goeth by Porestoke and Milton, the other at Askerwell, and runneth by
[Sidenote: Simen.]
Longlether. From hence also our Bride going toward the sea, taketh the
Simen on the west that commeth by Simensburge into the same, the whole
streame soone after falling into the sea, and leauing a pretie
hauenet.
[Sidenote: Chare.]
The next port is the Chare, serued with two rils in one confluence,
beneath Charemouth. The cheefe head of this riuer is (as Leland saith)
in Marshwood parke, and commeth downe by Whitechurch: the other
runneth by west of Wootton, and méeting beneath Charemouth towne (as I
said) dooth fall into the sea. Then came we to the Cobbe, and beheld
[Sidenote: Buddle.]
the Lime water, which the townesmen call the Buddle, which commeth
about thrée miles by north of Lime, from the hils, fleting vpon Rockie
soile, and so falleth into the sea. Certes, there is no hauen héere
that I could sée, but a quarter of a mile by west southwest of the
towne, is a great and costlie iuttie in the sea for succour of ships.
The towne is distant from Coliton, about fiue miles. And heere we
ended our voiage from the Auon, which conteineth the whole coast of
Dorcester, or Dorcetshire, so that next we must enter into Summerset
countie, and sée what waters are there.
[Sidenote: Axe.]
The first water that we méet withall in Summersetshire is the Axe,
which riseth in a place called Axe knoll, longing to sir Giles
Strangwaie, néere vnto Cheddington in Dorsetshire, from whence it
runneth to Mosterne, Feborow, Claxton, Weiford bridge, Winsham foord,
and receiuing one rill from the east by Hawkechurch, and soone after
another comming from northwest by Churchstoke, from Wainbroke, it
[Sidenote: Yare aliàs Arte.]
goeth to Axeminster, beneath which it crosseth the Yare, that commeth
from about Buckland, by Whitstaunton, Yarecombe, Long bridge,
Stockeland, Kilmington bridge (where it receiueth a brooke from by
south, that runneth by Dalwood) and so into the Axe. From hence our
Axe goeth to Drake, Musburie, Culliford: but yer it come altogither at
Culliford, it méeteth with a water that riseth aboue Cotleie, and
goeth from thence by Widworthie, Culliton, and there receiuing a rill
also, procéedeth on after the confluence aboue Culliford bridge, into
the Axe, and from thence hold on togither into the maine sea,
whereinto they fall vnder the roots of the winter cliffes, the points
of them being almost a mile in sunder. The most westerlie of them
called Berewood, lieth within halfe a mile of Seton.
But the other toward the east is named Whitecliffe, of which I saie no
more, but that "in the time of Athelstane, the greatest nauie that
euer aduentured into this Iland, arriued at Seton in Deuonshire, being
replenished with aliens that sought the conquest of this Iland, but
Athelstane met and incountered with them in the field, where he
ouerthrew six thousand of his aforesaid enimies. Not one of them also
that remained aliue, escaped from the battell without some deadlie or
verie gréeuous wound. In this conflict moreouer were slaine fiue
kings, which were interred in the churchyard of Axe minster, and of
the part of the king of England were killed eight earles of the chéefe
of his nobilitie, and they also buried in the churchyard aforesaid.
Héervnto it addeth how the bishop of Shireburne was in like sort
slaine in this battell, that began at Brunedune neere to Coliton, and
indured euen to Axe minster, which then was called Brunberie or
Brunburg. The same daie that this thing happened the sunne lost his
light, and so continued without anie brightnesse, vntill the setting
of that planet, though otherwise the season was cléere and nothing
cloudie."
As for the hauen which in times past as I haue heard, hath béene at
[Sidenote: Sidde.]
Sidmouth (so called of Sidde a rillet that runneth thereto) and
[Sidenote: Seton.]
likewise at Seton, I passe it ouer, sith now there is none at all. Yet
hath there béene sometime a notable one, albeit, that at this present
betweene the two points of the old hauen, there lieth a mightie bar of
pibble stones, in the verie mouth of it, and the riuer Axe is driuen
to the verie east point of the hauen called White cliffe. Thereat also
a verie little gull goeth into the sea, whither small fisherbotes doo
oft resort for succour. The men of Seton began of late to stake and
make a maine wall within the hauen to haue changed the course of the
Axe, and (almost in the middle of the old hauen) to haue trenched
through the Chesill, thereby to haue let out the Axe, & to haue taken
in the maine sea, but I heare of none effect that this attempt did
come vnto. From Seton westward lieth Coliton, about two miles by west
[Sidenote: Colie.]
northwest, whereof riseth the riuer Colie, which going by the
aforesaid towne, passeth by Colecombe parke, and afterward falleth
betweene Axe bridge and Axe mouth towne into the Axe riuer.
By west of Bereworth point lieth a créeke, serued (so farre as I
remember) with a fresh water that commeth from the hilles south of
[Sidenote: Sid.]
Soutleie or Branscombe. Sidmouth hauen is the next, and thither
commeth a fresh water by S. Maries from the said hils, that goeth from
S. Maries aforesaid to Sidburie, & betweene Saltcombe & Sidmouth into
[Sidenote: Autrie aliàs Ottereie.]
the maine sea. By west of Auterton point also lieth another hauen, and
thither commeth a pretie riueret, whose head is in the Hackpendon
hilles, and commeth downe first by Vpauter, then by a parke side to
Mohuns Auter, Munketon, Honniton, Buckewell, and north of Autrie
[Sidenote: Tale.]
receiueth a rill called Tale, that riseth northwest of Brodemburie in
a wood, and from whence it commeth by Pehemburie, Vinniton, and making
a confluence with the other, they go as one betwéene Cadde and Autrie,
to Herford, Luton, Collaton, Auterton, Budeleie, and so into the sea.
On the west side of this hauen is Budeleie almost directly against
Otterton. It is easie to be seene also, that within lesse space than
one hundred yeers, ships did vse this hauen, but now it is barred vp.
Some call it Budeleie hauen of Budeleie towne, others Salterne port,
of a little créeke comming out of the maine hauen vnto Salterne
village, that hath in time past béene a towne of great estimation.
[Sidenote: Exe.]
The Ex riseth in Exmore in Summersetshire, néere vnto Ex crosse, and
goeth from thence vnto Exeford, Winsford, and Extun, where it
receiueth a water comming from Cutcombe, by north. After this
confluence it goeth on toward the south, till it méet with a pretie
brooke rising northeast of Whettell (going by Brunton Regis) increased
at the least with thrée rilles which come all from by north. These
being once met, this water runneth on by west of the beacon that
[Sidenote: Barleie.]
beareth the name of Haddon, & soone after taketh in the Barleie, that
[Sidenote: Done aliàs Dones broke.]
receiueth in like sort the Done at Hawkbridge, and from hence goeth by
Dauerton, and Combe, and then doth méet with the Exe, almost in the
verie confines betwéene Dorset & Summersetshires. Being past this
coniunction, our Exe passeth betwéene Brushford and Murbath, and then
to Exe bridge, where it taketh in (as I heare) a water by west from
east Austie: and after this likewise another on ech side, whereof one
[Sidenote: Woodburne.]
commeth from Dixford, and Baunton, the other called Woodburne,
somewhat by east of Okeford. From these meetings it goeth to Caue and
through the forrest and woods to Hatherland and Washfields, vntill it
come to Tiuerton, and here it receiueth the Lomund water that riseth
aboue Ashbrittle, & commeth downe by Hockworthie, vpper Loman, and so
to Tiuerton that standeth almost euen in the verie confluence. Some
[Sidenote: Lomund or Simming.]
call this Lomund the Simming brooke or Sunnings bath. After this our
Exe goeth to Bickleie, Theuerten, (taking in a rill by west) nether
[Sidenote: Columbe.]
Exe, Bramford, beneath which it ioineth with the Columbe that riseth
of one head northeast of Clarie Haidon, and of another south of
Shildon, and méeting beneath Columbe stocke, goeth by Columbe and
Bradfeld, and there crossing a rill that commeth by Ashford, it
runneth south to Wood, More haies, Columbton, Brandnicke, Beare,
Columbe Iohn, Hoxham, and ioining (as I said) with the Exe at
Bramford, passing vnder but one bridge, yer it meet with another water
[Sidenote: Cride.]
[Sidenote: Forten.]
by west, growing of the Forten and Cride waters (except it be so that
I doo iudge amisse.) The Cride riseth aboue Wollesworthie, and néere
vnto Vpton: after it is past Dewrish, crosseth a rill from betweene
Puggill and Stockeleie by Stocke English, &c. From hence it goeth to
Fulford, where it méeteth with the Forten, wherof one branch commeth
by Caldbrooke, the other from S. Marie Tedburne, and ioining aboue
Crediton, the chanell goeth on to the Cride, (which yer long also
receiueth another from by north, comming by Stockeleie and Combe) then
betwéene Haine and Newton Sires, to Pines, and so into the Exe, which
staieth not vntill it come to Excester. From Excester (whither the
burgesses in time past laboured to bring the same, but in vaine) it
runneth to Were, there taking in a rill from by west, and an other
lower by Exminster, next of all vnto Toppesham; beneath which towne
[Sidenote: Cliuus.]
the Cliue entreth thereinto, which rising about Plumtree, goeth by
Cliff Haidon, Cliff Laurence, Brode Cliff, Honiton, Souton, Bishops
Cliff, S. Marie Cliff, Cliff saint George, and then into the Exe, that
runneth forward by Notwell court, Limston and Pouderham castell. Here
[Sidenote: Ken.]
(as I heare) it taketh in the Ken, or Kenton brooke (as Leland calleth
it) comming from Holcombe parke, by Dunsdike, Shillingford, Kenford,
Ken, Kenton, and so into Exe hauen, at whose mouth lie certeine rocks
which they call the Checkstones, except I be deceiued. The next fall,
whereof Leland saith nothing at all, commeth by Ashcombe and Dulish,
and hath his head in the hilles thereby.
[Sidenote: Teigne.]
The Teigne mouth is the next fall that we came to, & it is a goodlie
port foure miles from Exemouth. The head of this water is twentie
miles from the sea at Teigne head in Dartmore among the Gidleie
hilles. From whence it goeth to Gidleie towne, Teignton drue, where it
[Sidenote: Crokerne.]
receiueth the Crokerne comming from by north, and likewise an other
west of Fulford parke. Then it goeth to Dufford, Bridford, Kirslowe,
[Sidenote: Bouie.]
Chidleie, Knighton, and beneath the bridge there receiueth the Bouie,
whose course is to north Bouie, Lilleie, and Bouitracie. Thence it
[Sidenote: Eidis.]
runneth to kings Teignton, taking in Eidis, a brooke beneath Preston
that commeth from Edeford by the waie. And when it is past this
[Sidenote: Leman.]
confluence, at kings Teignton, it crosseth the Leman, which commeth
from Saddleton rocke by Beckington, and Newton Bushels: and soone
[Sidenote: Aller.]
after the Aller that riseth betwéene Danburie and Warog well,
afterward falling into the sea by Bishops Teignton, south of
Teignmouth towne.
The verie vtter west point of the land, at the mouth of Teigne is
called the Nesse, and is a verie high red cliffe. The east part of the
hauen is named the Poles, a low sandie ground, either cast vp by the
spuing of the sand out of the Teigne, or else throwne vp from the
shore by the rage of wind and water. This sand occupieth now a great
quantitie of the ground betwéene the hauen where the sand riseth, and
Teignmouth towne, which towne (surnamed Regis) hath in time past béene
sore defaced by the Danes, and of late time by the French.
From Teignemouth we came to Tor baie, wherof the west point is called
Birie, and the east Perritorie, betwéene which is little aboue foure
miles. From Tor baie also to Dartmouth is six miles, where (saith
Leland) I marked diuerse things. First of all vpon the east side of
the hauen a great hillie point called Downesend, and betwixt
Downesend, and a pointlet named Wereford is a little baie. Were it
selfe, in like sort, is not full a mile from Downesend vpward into the
hauen. Kingswere towne standeth out as another pointlet, and betwixt
it & Wereford is the second baie. Somewhat moreouer aboue Kingswere
towne goeth a little créeke vp into the land from the maine streame of
the hauen called Waterhead, and this is a verie fit place for vessels
to be made in. In like sort halfe a mile beyond this into the landward
goeth another longer créeke, and aboue that also a greater than either
of these called Gawnston, whose head is here not halfe a mile from the
maine sea, by the compassing thereof, as it runneth in Tor baie.
[Sidenote: Dart.]
The riuer of Dart or Darent (for I read Derenta muth for Dartmouth)
commeth out of Dartmore fiftéene miles aboue Totnesse, in a verie
large plot, and such another wild morish & forrestie ground as Exmore
is. Of it selfe moreouer this water is verie swift, and thorough
occasion of tin-workes whereby it passeth, it carrieth much sand to
Totnesse bridge, and so choketh the depth of the riuer downeward, that
the hauen it selfe is almost spoiled by the same. The mariners of
Dartmouth accompt this to be about a kenning from Plimmouth. The
Darent therefore proceeding from the place of his vprising, goeth on
to Buckland, from whence it goeth to Buckland hole; and soone after
[Sidenote: Ashburne.]
[Sidenote: Buckfastlich.]
taking in the Ashburne water on the one side that runneth from
Saddleton rocke by north, and the Buckfastlich that commeth from north
west, it runneth to Staunton, Darington, Hemston, and there also
crossing a rill on ech side passeth foorth to Totnesse, Bowden, and
[Sidenote: Hartburne.]
aboue Gabriell Stoke, méeteth with the Hartburne that runneth vnder
Rost bridge, two miles aboue Totnes, or (as another saith) by Ratter,
Harberton, Painesford, and Asprempton into Darent, which yon long also
commeth to Corneworthie, Grenewaie, Ditsham, Darntmouth towne
(wherevnto king Iohn gaue sometimes a maior, as he did vnto Totnesse)
from thence betwéene the castelles, and finallie into sea.
From hence we went by Stokeflemming to another water, which commeth
from blacke Auton, then to the second that falleth in east of Slapton,
and so coasting out of this baie by the Start point, we saile almost
directlie west, till we come to Saltcombe hauen. Certes this port hath
verie little fresh water comming to it, and therefore no meruell
though it be barred; yet the head of it (such as it is) riseth néere
Buckland, and goeth to Dudbrooke, which standeth betwéene two créekes.
Thence it hieth to Charleton, where it taketh in a rill, whose head
commeth from south and north of Shereford. Finallie it hath another
créeke that runneth vp by Ilton: and the last of all that falleth in
north of Portlemouth, whose head is so néere the baie last afore
remembred, that it maketh it a sorie peninsula (as I haue heard it
said.)
[Sidenote: Awne.]
Then come we to the Awne, whose head is in the hils farre aboue Brent
towne, from whence it goeth to Dixford wood, Loddewell, Hache, Aunton,
Thorleston, and so into the sea ouer against a rocke called S.
[Sidenote: Arme.]
Michaels burrow. Arme riseth aboue Harford, thence to Stoford, Iuie
bridge, Armington bridge, Fléet, Orchardton, Ownewell, and so vnto the
sea, which is full of flats and rocks, so that no ship commeth thither
in anie tempest, except it be forced therto, through the vttermost
extremitie and desperat hazard of the fearefull mariners. King Philip
[Sidenote: Sée Hen. 7. pag. 792, 793, 794.]
of Castile lost two ships here in the daies of king Henrie the
seuenth, when he was driuen to land in the west countrie by the rage
[Sidenote: Yalme.]
of weather. Yalme goeth by Cornewood, Slade, Stratleie, Yalmeton,
Collaton, Newton ferrie, and so into the sea, about foure miles by
[Sidenote: Plim.]
south east from the maine streame of Plimmouth. Being past these
portlets, then next of all we come to Plimmouth hauen, a verie busie
péece to describe, bicause of the numbers of waters that resort vnto
it, & small helpe that I haue for the knowledge of their courses; yet
will I doo what I may in this, as in the rest, and so much I hope by
Gods grace to performe, as shall suffice my purpose in this behalfe.
[Sidenote: Plim.]
The Plimne or Plim, is the verie same water that giueth name to
Plimpton towne. The mouth of this gulfe, wherein the ships doo ride,
is walled on ech side and chained ouer in time of necessitie, and on
the south side of the hauen is a blocke house vpon a rockie hill: but
as touching the riuer it selfe, it riseth in the hils west of
Cornewood, and commeth downe a short course of thrée miles to Newenham
after it be issued out of the ground. From Newenham also it runneth to
[Sidenote: Stoure aliàs Catwater.]
Plimpton, and soone after into the Stoure, which Stoure ariseth
northwest of Shepistour, & goeth fr[=o] thence to Memchurch, Hele,
Shane, Bickleie, and so to Eford, where taking in the Plim, it runneth
downe as one vnder the name of Plim, vntill it go past Plimmouth, and
fall into the hauen south east of Plimmouth aforesaid. I haue
oftentimes trauelled to find out the cause whie so manie riuers in
England are called by this name Stoure, and at the first supposing
that it was growne by the corruption of Dour, the British word for a
streame, I rested thervpon as resolued for a season: but afterward
finding the word to be méere Saxon, and that Stouremare is a prouince
subiect to the duke of Saxonie, I yéelded to another opinion: whereby
I conceiue that the said name was first deriued from the Saxons. But
to returne to our purpose.
Plimmouth it selfe standeth betweene two créeks, not serued with anie
backewater, therefore passing ouer these two, we enter into the Thamar
that dischargeth it selfe into the aforesaid hauen. Going therfore vp
that streame, which for the most part parteth Deuonshire from
[Sidenote: Taue or Tauie.]
Cornewall, the first riueret that I met withall on the east side is
called Tauie, the head whereof is among the mounteins foure miles
aboue Peters Tauie, beneath which it meeteth with another water from
by west, so that these two waters include Marie Tauie betwéene them,
though nothing neere the confluence. From hence the Taue or Tauie
runneth to Tauistocke, aboue which it taketh in a rill from by west,
and another aboue north Buckland, whose head is in Dartmore, and
commeth therevnto by Sandford and Harrow bridge. From hence it goeth
into Thamar, by north Buckland, moonks Buckland, Beare, and Tamerton
follie. Hauing thus dispatched the Tauie, the next that falleth in on
[Sidenote: Lidde.]
the east side vpwards is the Lidde, which rising in the hils aboue
Lidford, runneth downe by Curriton and Siddenham, and so to Lidstone,
[Sidenote: Trushell.]
aboue which it receiueth the Trushell brooke, which rising north east
of Brediston, goeth by Trusholton to Ibaine, where it receiueth a rill
that commeth by Bradwood from Germanswike, and after the confluence
runneth to Liston, and from thence into the Thamar. The next aboue
[Sidenote: Core.]
this is the Corewater, this ariseth somewhere about Elwell or Helwell,
and going by Virginston, runneth on by saint Giles without anie
increase vntill it come to Thamar. Next of all it taketh in two
brookes not much distant in sunder, whereof the one commeth in by
Glanton, the other from Holsworthie, and both east of Tamerton, which
standeth on the further banke, & other side of the Thamar, and west
northwest of Tedcote, except the quarter deceiue me.
[Sidenote: Thamar.]
Certes, the Thamar it selfe riseth in Summersetshire, about thrée
miles northeast of Hartland, and in maner so crosseth ouer the whole
west countrie betwéene sea and sea, that it leaueth Cornewall, a
byland or peninsula. Being therefore descended from the head, by a
tract of six miles, it commeth to Denborow, Pancrase well, Bridge
Reuell, Tamerton, Tetcote, Luffencote, Boiton, and Wirrington, where
[Sidenote: Arteie.]
it meeteth with a water on the west side called Arteie, that riseth
short of Jacobstow. Two miles in like sort fr[=o] this confluence, we
[Sidenote: Kenseie.]
met with the Kenseie, whose head is short of Warpeston by south east:
from whence it goeth by Treneglos, Tremone, Tresmure, Trewen, Lanston,
and so into the Thamar, that runneth from hence by Lowwhitton vnto
Bradston, and going on toward Dunterton, taketh in a rill from south
Pitherwijc, and by Lesant; beneath Dunterton also it crosseth the
[Sidenote: Enian.]
Enian. This riuer riseth at Dauidston, and directeth his race by saint
Clethir, Lancast, and Trelaske first; and then vnder sundrie bridges,
vntill it méet with the Thamar. From hence also the Thamar goeth by
Siddenham to Calstocke bridge, Calstocke towne, Clifton, Cargreue
(there abouts taking in a créeke aboue Landilip) and running on from
[Sidenote: Liuer.]
thence, hasteth toward Saltash, where it receiueth the Liuer water.
The head of Liuer is about Broomwellie hill, from whence it goeth on
to North hill, Lekenhorne, South hill, and taking in a rill by east
(from aboue Kellington) it runneth on to Newton, Pillaton, Wootton,
Blosfleming, saint Erne, and beneath this village crosseth a rillet
that runneth thither from Bicton by Quithiocke, saint Germans, and
Sheuiocke. But to procéed. After the confluence, it goeth betweene
Erlie and Fro Martine castell, and soone after taking in a rill from
by north, that passeth west of saint Steuens, it is not long yer it
fall into the Thamar, which after this (receiuing the Milbrooke
creeke) goeth on by Edgecombe, and betwéene saint Michaels Ile and
Ridden point into the maine sea. And thus haue I finished the
description of Plimmouth water, and all such falles as are betwéene
Newston rocke on the east side, and the Ram head on the other.
After this we procéeded on with our iournie toward the west, and
passing by Longstone, we came soone after to Sothan baie, where we
crossed the Seton water, whose head is about Liscard, & his course by
[Sidenote: Sutton.]
[Sidenote: Low.]
Minheniet, Chafrench, Tregowike, Sutton and so into the sea. Then came
we to Low, and going in betwéene it and Mount Ile, we find that it had
a branched course, and thereto the confluence aboue Low. The chiefe
head riseth in the hils, as it were two miles aboue Gaine, and going
by that towne, it ceaseth not to continue his course east of Dulo,
till it come a little aboue Low, where it crosseth and ioineth with
the Brodoke water that runneth from Brodokes by Trewargo, and so into
the sea. Next vnto these are two other rils, of which one is called
[Sidenote: Polpir.]
Polpir, before we come at Foy, or Fawy.
[Sidenote: Fawie.]
Foy or Fawy riuer riseth in Fawy moore, on the side of an hill in Fawy
moore, from whence it runneth by certeine bridges, till it méet with
[Sidenote: Glin.]
the Glin water west of Glin towne, which rising aboue Temple, &
méeting with a rill that commeth in from S. Neotes, doth fall into
Fawy a mile and more aboue Resprin from by east. After this confluence
then, it goeth to Resprin bridge, Lestermen castell, Lostwithiell
bridge, Pill, saint Kingtons, saint Winnow, and Golant, and here also
[Sidenote: Lerinus.]
receiueth the Lerine water out of a parke, that taketh his waie into
the maine streame by Biconke, Tethe, and the Fining house. Being thus
vnited, it proceedeth vnto Fawy towne, taking in a rill or creeke from
aboue it on the one side, and another beneath it south of Halling on
the other: of which two this latter is the longest of course, sith it
[Sidenote: Faw.]
runneth thrée good miles before it come at the Foy. Leland writing of
this riuer addeth verie largelie vnto it after this maner. The Fawy
riseth in Fawy moore (about two miles from Camilford by south, and
sixtéene miles from Fawy towne) in a verie quaue mire on the side of
an hill. From hence it goeth to Drainesbridge, to Clobham bridge,
Lergen bridge, New bridge, Resprin bridge, and Lostwithiell bridge,
where it meeteth with a little brooke, and néere therevnto parteth it
selfe in twaine. Of these two armes therefore one goeth to a bridge of
stone, the other to another of timber, and soone after ioining againe,
the maine riuer goeth to saint Gwinnowes, from thence also to the
point of saint Gwinnowes wood, which is about halfe a mile from
thence, except my memorie dooth faile me. Here goeth in a salt créeke
halfe a mile on the east side of the hauen, and at the head of it is a
bridge called Lerine bridge; the créeke it selfe in like maner bearing
the same denomination.
[Sidenote: In the middle of this créeke was a cell of S. Ciret in an
Islet longing sometime to Mountegew a priorie.]
From Lerine créeke, to S. Caracs pill or créeke, is about halfe a
mile, and Lower on the east side of the said hauen: it goeth vp also
not aboue a mile and an halfe into the land. From Caracs créeke to
Poulmorland a mile, and this likewise goeth vp scant a quarter of a
mile into the land, yet at the head it parteth it selfe in twaine.
From Poulmorland vnto Bodnecke village halfe a mile, where the passage
and repassage is commonlie to Fawy. From Bodnecke to Pelene point
(where a créeke goeth vp not fullie a thousand paces into the land) a
mile, thence to Poulruan a quarter of a mile, and at this Poulruan is
a tower of force, marching against the tower on Fawy side, betwéene
which (as I doo heare) a chaine hath sometime beene stretched, and
likelie inough; for the hauen there is hardly two bow shot ouer. The
verie point of land at the east side of the mouth of this hauen, is
called Pontus crosse, but now Panuche crosse. It shall not be amisse
in this place somewhat to intreat of the towne of Fawy, which is
[Sidenote: Comwhath.]
called in Cornish Comwhath, and being situat on the northside of the
hauen, is set hanging on a maine rockie hill, being in length about
one quarter of a mile, except my memorie deceiue me.
The renowme of Fawy rose by the wars vnder king Edward the first,
Edward the third, and Henrie the fift, partlie by feats of armes, and
partlie by plaine pirasie. Finallie, the townesmen feeling themselues
somwhat at ease and strong in their purses, they fell to merchandize,
and so they prospered in this their new deuise, that as they trauelled
into all places, so merchants from all countries made resort to them,
whereby within a while they grew to be exceeding rich. The ships of
Fawy sailing on a time by Rhie and Winchelseie in the time of king
Edward the third, refused stoutlie to vale anie bonet there, although
warning was giuen them so to doo by the portgreues or rulers of those
townes. Herevpon the Rhie and Winchelseie men made out vpon them with
cut and long taile: but so hardlie were they interteined by the Fawy
pirates (I should saie aduenturers) that they were driuen home againe
with no small losse and hinderance. Such fauour found the Fawy men
also immediatlie vpon this bickering, that in token of their victorie
ouer their winching aduersaries, and riding ripiers (as they called
them in mockerie) they altered their armes and compounded for new,
wherein the scutchion of Rhie and Winchelseie is quartered with
[Sidenote: Gallants of Foy or Fawy.]
theirs, and beside this the Foyens were called the gallants of Fawy or
Foy, whereof they not a little reioiced, and more peraduenture than
for some greater bootie. And thus much of Fawy towne, wherein we sée
what great successe often commeth of witlesse and rash aduentures. But
to returne againe to our purpose from whence we haue digressed, and as
hauing some desire to finish vp this our voiage, we will leaue the
Fawmouth & go forward on our iournie.
Being therefore past this hauen, we come into Trewardith baie, which
lieth into the land betwéene Canuasse and the Blacke head point, and
here about Leland placeth Vrctoum promontorium. In this we saw the
fall of two small brookes, not one verie far distant from another. The
first of them entring west of Trewardith, the other east of saint
Blaies, and both directlie against Curwarder rocke, except I mistake
my compasse. Neither of them are of anie great course, and the longest
not full thrée miles and an halfe. Wherfore sith they are neither
branched nor of anie great quantitie, what should I make long haruest
of a little corne and spend more time than may well be spared about
them?
[Sidenote: Austell.]
When we were past the Blacke head, we came to Austell brooke, which is
increased with a water that commeth from aboue Mewan, and within a
mile after the confluence, they fall into the sea at Pentoren, from
whence we went by the Blacke rocke, and about the Dudman point, till
[Sidenote: Chare.]
we came to Chare haies, where falleth in a pretie water, whose head is
two miles aboue saint Tues. Thence we went by here and there a méere
salt créeke, till we passed the Graie rocke, in Gwindraith baie, and
S. Anthonies point, where Leland maketh his accompt to enter into
Falamouth hauen.
[Sidenote: Fala.]
The Fala riseth a little by north of Penuenton towne, and going
westward till it come downwards toward saint Dionise, it goeth forth
from thence to Melader, saint Steuens Grampont, Goldon, Crede,
Corneleie, Tregue, Moran, Tregunnan, it falleth into the hauen with a
good indifferent force: and this is the course of Fala. But least I
should séeme to omit those creekes that are betwéene this and S.
Anthonies point, I will go a little backe againe, and fetch in so
manie of them, as come now to my remembrance. Entring therefore into
the port, we haue a créeke that runneth vp by saint Anthonies toward
saint Gereus, then another that goeth into the land by east of saint
Maries castell, with a forked head, passing in the meane time by a
great rocke that lieth in the verie midst of the hauen, in maner of
the third point of a triangle, betwéene saint Maries castell and
Pendinant.
Thence we cast about by the said castell, and came by another créeke
that falleth in by east, then the second aboue saint Iustus, the third
at Ardenora, the fourth at Rilan. And hauing as it were visited all
these in order, we came backe againe about by Tregonnian, and then
going vpward betweene it and Taluerne, till we came to Fentangolan, we
found the confluence of two great creekes beneath saint Clements,
whereof one hath a fresh water comming downe by S. Merther, the other
another from Truro, increased with sundrie branches, though not one of
them of anie greatnesse, and therefore vnworthie to be handled. Pole
hole standeth vpon the head almost of the most easterlie of them. S.
Kenwen and Truro stand aboue the confluence of other two. The fourth
falleth in by west from certeine hils: as for the fift and sixt, as
they be little créeks and no fresh, so haue I lesse language and talke
to spend about them.
[Sidenote: S. Caie.]
Of saint Caie, and saint Feokes créeke, whose issue is betwéene
Restronget and créeke of Trurie, I sée no cause to make any long
[Sidenote: S. Feoks.]
spéech; yet I remember that the towne of S. Feoke standeth betwéene
them both. That also called after this saint, rising aboue
[Sidenote: Milor.]
Perannarwothill, and comming thence by Kirklo, falleth into Falamouth,
northeast of Milor, which standeth vpon the point betwéene it and
Milor créeke. Milor creeke is next Restronget: some call it Milor
poole, from whence we went by Trefusis point, and there found an other
great fall from Perin, which being branched in the top, hath Perin
towne almost in the verie confluence. And thus much by my collection
of the fall. But for somuch as Leland hath taken some paines in the
description of this riuer, I will not suffer it to perish, sith there
is other matter conteined therein worthie remembrance, although not
deliuered in such order as the thing it selfe requireth.
[Sidenote: Fala.]
The verie point (saith he) of the hauen mouth (being an hill whereon
the king hath builded a castell) is called Pendinant. It is about a
mile in compasse, almost inuironed with the sea: and where the sea
couereth not, the ground is so low that it were a small mastrie to
make Pendinant an Iland. Furthermore, there lieth a cape or foreland
within the hauen a mile and a halfe, and betwixt this and maister
Killigrewes house one great arme of the hauen runneth vp to Penrine
towne, which is three miles from the verie entrie of Falamouth hauen,
[Sidenote: Leuine.]
and two good miles from Penfusis. Moreouer there is Leuine, Priselo,
betwixt saint Budocus and Pendinas, which were a good hauen but for
the barre of sand. But to procéed.
The first creeke or arme that casteth on the northwest side of
Falemouth hauen, goeth vp to Perin, and at the end it breaketh into
two armes, whereof the lesse runneth to Glasenith, Viridis nidus, the
gréene nest, or Wagméere at Penrine: the other to saint Glunias the
parish church of Penrine. In like sort out of each side of Penrine
créeke, breaketh an arme yer it come to Penrine. This I vnderstand
also that stakes and foundations of stone haue béene set in the créeke
at Penrine a little lower than the wharfe, where it breaketh into
armes: but howsoeuer this standeth, betwixt the point of Trefusis and
[Sidenote: Milor.]
the point of Restronget is Milor créeke, which goeth vp a mile into
the land, and by the church is a good rode for ships. The next creeke
[Sidenote: Restronget.]
beyond the point of Restronget wood, is called Restronget, which going
two miles vp into the maine, breaketh into two armes. In like order
betwixt Restronget and the creeke of Trurie be two créekes; one called
[Sidenote: S. Feoks.]
[Sidenote: S. Caie.]
saint Feokes, the other saint Caie, next vnto which is Trurie créeke
that goeth vp about two miles créeking from the principall streame,
and breaketh within halfe a mile of Trurie, casting in a branch
westward euen hard by Newham wood.
[Sidenote: Trurie créeke.]
This creeke of Trurie is diuided into two parts before the towne of
Trurie, and each of them hauing a brooke comming downe and a bridge,
the towne of Trurie standeth betwixt them both. In like sort Kenwen
stréet is seuered from the said towne with this arme, and Clements
street by east with the other. Out of the bodie also of Trurie creeke
breaketh another eastward a mile from Trurie, and goeth vp a mile and
a halfe to Cresilian bridge of stone. At the verie entrie and mouth of
this créeke is a rode of ships called Maples rode: and here fought not
long since eightéene ships of Spanish merchants, with foure ships of
warre of Deepe, but the Spaniards draue the Frenchmen all into this
harborow. A mile and an halfe aboue the mouth of Crurie creeke, is
[Sidenote: Moran.]
another named Lhan Moran of S. Morans church at hand. This créeke
goeth vp a quarter of a mile from the maine streame into the hauen, as
the maine streame goeth vp two miles aboue Moran créeke ebbing and
flowing: and a quarter of a mile higher, is the towne of Cregowie,
where we found a bridge of stone vpon the Fala riuer. Fala it selfe
riseth a mile or more west of Roche hill, and goeth by Graund pont,
where I saw a bridge of stone.
[Sidenote: Graund pont.]
This Graund pont is foure miles from Roche hill, and two little miles
from Cregowie, betwixt which the Fala taketh his course. From Cregowie
to passe downe by the bodie of the hauen of Falamouth to the mouth of
Lanie horne pill or créeke, on the south side of the hauen is a mile,
and (as I remember) it goeth vp halfe a mile from the principall
streame of the hauen. From Lanihorne pill also is a place or point of
sand about a mile waie of fortie acres or thereabout (as a peninsula)
called Ardeuerauter. As for the water or créeke that runneth into the
south southeast part, it is but a little thing of halfe a mile vp into
the land, and the créeke that hemmeth in this peninsula, of both dooth
seeme to be the greater. From the mouth of the west creeke of this
peninsula, vnto saint Iustes creeke, is foure miles or more.
[Sidenote: S. Iustus.]
[Sidenote: S. Mawes.]
In like maner from saint Iustes pill or créeke (for both signifie one
thing) to saint Mawes creeke is a mile and a halfe, and the point
betwéene them both is called Pendinas. The créeke of saint Mawes goeth
vp a two miles by east northeast into the land, and beside that it
ebbeth and floweth so farre, there is a mill driuen with a fresh
créeke that resorteth to the same. Halfe a mile from the head of this
downeward to the hauen, is a créeke in maner of a poole, whereon is a
mill also that grindeth with the tide. And a mile beneath that on the
south side entereth a créeke (about halfe a mile into the countrie)
which is barred from the maine sea by a small sandie banke, and
another mile yet lower, is an other little créekelet. But how so euer
these créekes doo run, certeine it is that the bankes of them that
belong to Fala are meruellouslie well woodded. And hitherto Leland,
whose words I dare not alter, for feare of corruption and alteration
of his iudgement. Being past Falmouth hauen therefore (as it were a
quarter of a mile beyond Arwennach, maister Killegrewes place which
standeth on the brimme or shore within Falmouth) we came to a little
hauen which ran vp betwéene two hilles, but it was barred: wherefore
we could not learne whether it were serued with anie backe fresh water
or not.
[Sidenote: Polwitherall.]
From thence we went by Polwitherall creeke (parted into two armes)
[Sidenote: Polpenrith.]
then to the Polpenrith, wherevnto a riueret falleth that riseth not
farre from thence, and so goeth to the maine streame of the hauen at
the last, whither the créeke resorteth about thrée miles and more from
the mouth of the hauen, and into which the water that goeth vnder Gare
bridges, doo fall in one bottome (as Leland hath reported.) Vnto this
[Sidenote: Wike.]
[Sidenote: Gare.]
[Sidenote: Mogun.]
[Sidenote: Penkestell.]
[Sidenote: Callous.]
[Sidenote: Cheilow.]
[Sidenote: Gilling.]
hauen also repaireth the Penkestell, the Callous, the Cheilow, and the
Gilling, although this latter lieth against saint Mawuons on the
hither side hard without the hauen mouth (if I haue doone aright.) For
so motheaten, mouldie, & rotten are those bookes of Leland which I
haue, and beside that, his annotations are such and so confounded, as
no man can (in a maner) picke out anie sense from them by a leafe
togither. Wherefore I suppose that he dispersed and made his notes
intricate of set purpose: or else he was loth that anie man should
easilie come to that knowledge by reading, which he with his great
charge & no lesse trauell attained vnto by experience. Thus leauing
Fala hauen, as more troublesome for me to describe, than profitable
for seafaring men, without good aduise to enter into, we left the
rocke on our left hand, and came straight southwest to Helford hauen,
[Sidenote: Haile.]
whose water commeth downe from Wréeke (where is a confluence of two
small rilles whereof that rill consisteth) by Mawgan and Trelawarren,
and then it receiueth a rill on the north ripe from Constantine, after
whose confluence it goeth a maine vntill it come to the Ocean, where
the mouth is spoiled by sand comming from the tinworks. See Leland in
the life of S. Breaca. Beneath this also is another rill comming from
S. Martyrs, by whose course, and another ouer against it on the west
side that falleth into the sea by Winniton, all Menage is left almost
in maner of an Iland. From hence we go south to the Manacle point,
then southwest to Lisard, and so north and by west to Predannocke
points, beyond which we méet with the fall of the said water that
riseth in the edge of Menag, and goeth into the sea by Melien on the
north, and Winniton on the south. By north also of Winniton is the
[Sidenote: Curie.]
Curie water that runneth short of Magan, and toucheth with the Ocean
south of Pengwenian point.
[Sidenote: Loo.]
From hence we sailed to the Loo mouth, which some call Lopoole,
because it is narrower at the fall into the sea, than it is betwéene
the sea and Hailston. It riseth aboue S. Sethians, and comming downe
by Wendron, it hasteth to Hailston or Helston, from whence onelie it
is called Loo: but betwéene Helston and the head, men call it
commonlie Cohor. Of this riuer Leland saith thus: The Lopoole is two
miles in length, and betwixt it and the maine Ocean is but a barre of
sand that once in thrée or foure yéeres, what by weight of the fresh
water, and working of the sea breaketh out, at which time it maketh a
wonderfull noise: but soone after the mouth of it is barred vp againe.
At all other times the superfluitie of the water of Lopole (which is
full of trout and éele) draineth out through the sandie barre into the
open sea: certes if this barre could alwaies be kept open, it would
make a goodlie hauen vp vnto Haileston towne, where coinage of tin is
also vsed, as at Trurie and Lostwithiell, for the quéenes aduantage.
Being passed the Loo, I came to another water that descendeth without
[Sidenote: Simneie.]
anie increase from Crowan by Simneie, whose whole course is not aboue
thrée miles in all. Then going by the Cuddan point, we entered the
mounts Baie, and going streight north (leauing S. Michaels mount a
[Sidenote: Lid.]
little vpon the left hand) we came to the Lid, which rising short of
Tewidnacke, descendeth by Lidgenan, and so into the sea. Certes the
course of these waters cannot be long, sith in this verie place this
breadth of land is not aboue foure miles, and not more than fiue at
the verie lands end. There is also a rill east of Korugie, and
Guluall, and another west of the same hard at hand, and likewise the
third east of Pensants: and not a full quarter of a mile from the
second, southwest of Pensants also lieth the fourth that commeth from
Sancrete ward by Newlin, from whence going southwest out of the baie
by Moushole Ile, that lieth south of Moushole towne, we come to a
water that entreth into the Ocean betwixt Remels & Lamorleie point.
Trulie the one head thereof commeth from by west of Sancrete, the
other from by west of an hill that standeth betwéene them both, and
ioining aboue Remels, it is not long yer they salute their grandame.
After this, and before we come at Rosecastell, there are two other
créekes, whereof one is called Boskennie, that riseth south of saint
Buriens, and an other somewhat longer than the first, that issueth by
west of the aforesaid towne, wherein is to be noted, that our cards
made heretofore doo appoint S. Buriens to be at the very lands end of
Cornewall, but experience now teacheth vs, that it commeth not néere
the lands end by thrée miles. This latter rill also is the last that I
doo reade of on the south side, and likewise on the west and north,
till we haue sailed to S. Ies baie, which is full ten miles from the
[Sidenote: Bresan Ile.]
lands end, or Bresan Ile eastward, & rather more, if you reckon to the
fall of the Haile, which lieth in the very middest and highest part of
the baie of the same. The soile also is verie hillie here, as for
saint Ies towne, it is almost (as I said) a byland, and yet is it well
watered with sundrie rilles that come from those hilles vnto the same.
[Sidenote: Haile.]
The Haile riseth in such maner, and from so manie heads, as I haue
before said: howbeit I will adde somewhat more vnto it, for the
benefit of my readers. Certes the chéefe head of Haile riseth by west
of Goodalfin hilles, and going downe toward saint Erthes, it receiueth
the second, and best of the other three rilles from Goodalfin towne:
finallie, comming to saint Erthes, and so vnto the maine baie, it
[Sidenote: Clowart.]
taketh in the Clowart water from Guimer, south of Phelacke, which hath
two heads, the said village standing directlie betwixt them both.
[Sidenote: Caine.]
The Caine riseth southeast of Caineburne towne a mile and more, from
whence it goeth without increase by west of Gwethian, and so into the
sea west of Mara Darwaie. From hence we coasted about the point, &
left the baie till we came to a water that riseth of two heads from
those hilles that lie by south of the same: one of them also runneth
by saint Vni, another by Redreuth, and méeting within a mile, they
[Sidenote: Luggam.]
fall into the Ocean beneath Luggam or Tuggan. A mile and a halfe from
this fall we come vnto another small rill, and likewise two other
créekes, betwixt which the towne of saint Agnes standeth; and likewise
the fourth halfe a mile beyond the most easterlie of these, whose head
is almost thrée miles within the land in a towne called saint Alin.
Thence going by the Manrocke, and west of saint Piran in the sand, we
find a course of thrée miles and more from the head, and hauing a
forked branch, the parts doo méet at west aboue saint Kibbard, and so
[Sidenote: S. Pirans créeke.]
[Sidenote: Carantocke.]
go into the sea. I take this to be saint Pirans créeke, for the next
is Carantocke pill or créeke, whose head is at Guswarth, from whence
it goeth vnto Trerise, and soone after taking in a rill from by west,
it runneth into the sea coast of saint Carantakes. Beyond this is
another créeke that riseth aboue little saint Colan, and goeth by
lesse saint Columbe: and east and by north hereof commeth downe one
more whose head is almost south of the Nine stones, & going from
thence to great saint Columbes, it passeth by Lamberne, and so into
the sea. S. Merous créeke is but a little one, rising west of Padstow,
and falling in almost ouer against the Gull rocke. Then turning
[Sidenote: Padstow.]
[Sidenote: Locus bufonis.]
betwéene the point and the blacke rocke, we entred into Padstow hauen
thrée miles lower than port Issec, and a mile from port Ewin, whose
waters remaine next of all to be described.
[Sidenote: Alannus.]
The Alan ariseth flat east from the hauen mouth of Padstow, well néere
[Sidenote: Eniam.]
eight or nine miles about Dauidstone, neere vnto which the Eniam also
issueth, that runneth into the Thamar. Going therefore from hence it
passeth to Camelford, saint Aduen, saint Bernard (both Cornish saints)
and soone after receiueth a rill at northeast, descending from Rowters
hill. Thence it goeth to Bliseland, and Helham, the first bridge of
name that standeth vpon Alin. Yer long also it taketh in one rill by
south from Bodman, another from saint Laurence, the third by west of
this, and the fourth that commeth by Wethiell, no one of them
excéeding the course of thrée miles, and all by south. From hence it
goeth toward Iglesaleward, and there receiueth a water on the east
side, which commeth about two miles from saint Teath, by Michelston,
saint Tuchoe, saint Maben (mo Cornish patrons) and finallie south of
Iglesall, méeteth with the Alen that goeth from thence by S. Breaca to
Woodbridge. Hereabout I find, that into our Alein or Alen, there
[Sidenote: Carneseie.]
[Sidenote: Laine.]
should fall two riuerets, whereof the one is called Carneseie, the
other Laine, and comming in the end to full notice of the matter, I
sée them to issue on seuerall sides beneath Woodbridge almost
directlie the one against the other. That which descendeth from
northwest, and riseth about saint Kew, is named Carneseie, as I heare:
the other that commeth in on the southwest banke hight Laine, and
noted by Leland to rise two miles aboue S. Esse. But howsoeuer this
matter standeth, there are two other créekes on ech side also, beneath
[Sidenote: Pethrike.]
[Sidenote: Minner.]
[Sidenote: Dunmere.]
these, as Pethrike creeke, and Minner créeke (so called of the Cornish
saints) for that soile bred manie, wherewith I finish the description
of Alen, or (as some call it) Dunmere, and other Padstow water.
From Padstow hauen also they saile out full west to Waterford in
Ireland. There are likewise two rockes, which lie in the east side of
the hauen, secretlie hidden at full sea, as two pads in the straw,
whereof I think it taketh the name. Yet I remember how I haue read
that Padstow is a corrupted word for Adlestow, and should signifie so
much as Athelstani locus, as it may well be. For it is euident that
they had in time past sundrie charters of priuilege from Athelstane,
although at this present it be well stored with Irishmen. But to our
purpose. Leland supposed this riuer to be the same Camblan, where
Arthur fought his last and fatall conflict: for to this daie men that
doo eare the ground there, doo oft plow vp bones of a large size, and
great store of armour, or else it may be (as I rather coniecture) that
the Romans had some field (or Castra) thereabout, for not long since
(and in the remembrance of man) a brasse pot full of Romane coine was
found there, as I haue often heard. Being thus passed Padstow hauen,
and after we had gone three miles from hence, we came to Portgwin a
poore fisher towne, where I find a brooke and a péere. Then I came to
Portissec aliàs Cunilus two miles further, and found there a brooke, a
péere, and some succor for fisher boats. Next of all vnto a brooke
that ran from south east, directlie north into the Sauerne sea, and
within halfe a mile of the same laie a great blacke rocke like an
Iland. From this water to Treuenni is about a mile, where the paroch
church is dedicated to saint Simphorian, and in which paroch also
Tintagell or Dundagie castell standeth, which is a thing inexpugnable
for the situation, and would be made with little reparations one of
the strongest things in England. For it standeth on a great high
terrible crag inuironed with the sea. There is a chappell yet standing
in the dungeon thereof, dedicated to saint Vlet. Tintagell towne and
Treuenni are not a mile in sunder.
[Sidenote: Tredwie.]
The next créeke is called Bosinni, which is a mile from Tintagell, and
to the same Tredwie water resorteth, and so they go to the sea betwixt
two hils, whereof that on the one side lieth out like an arme or cape,
and maketh the fashion of an hauenet or peere, whither shiplets
sometime doo resort for succour. A frier of late daies tooke vpon him
to make an hauen at this place, but in vaine. There lie also two
blacke rocks as Ilets, at the west northwest point, or side of this
créeke, the one (sauing that a little gut dooth part them) ioining
with the other, and in these by all likelihood is great store of
gulles. I can not tell whether this be the water that runneth by
Boscastell or not, but if it be not, then haue I this description of
[Sidenote: Boscastell.]
the latter. Boscastell créeke that lieth east of Tintagell, is but a
small thing, running at the most not aboue two miles into the land,
yet it passeth by foure townes, whereof the first is called Lesneth,
the second saint Juliet, the third Minster, and the fourth Boscastell
or Bushcastell, as some men doo pronounce it.
[Sidenote: Bede.]
In Bede baie I find the Bedewater, whose chiefe head is not farre from
[Sidenote: Lancels.]
Norton. Thence running to Stratton, it receiueth the Lancels rill
before it come at Norham. And here also it crosseth another whose head
is east of saint Marie wijke, from whence it runneth by Wolston and
Whalesborow, and thence into the sea betweene Efford and Plough hill.
And thus much of the waters that lie betwéene the point of Cornewall,
and the Hartland head vpon the north side of Cornewall. Now let vs doo
the like with those that remaine of Deuonshire, whereo the said
Hartland is the verie first point in this our poeticall voiage. Hauing
therefore brought Hartland point on our backs, we come next of all to
Barstable bar, and so into the hauen, whereinto two principall streams
doo perpetuallie vnburden their chanels.
[Sidenote: Ocus.]
The first and more westerlie of these is called Ocus, whose head is
not farre west of the head of Darnt, and Loth in Darntmore. Rising
therefore in the aforesaid place, it runneth northwest to Snorton, and
so to Okehampton, beneath which towne it méeteth with an other water
comming from southeast, & riseth not much west from the head of Tawe.
From hence it goeth to Stow Exborne, Moonke Okington, & Iddesleie,
[Sidenote: Tanridge.]
[Sidenote: Turrege.]
where it taketh in the Tanridge a verie pretie streamelet, whose issue
is not full a mile by east from the head of Thamar, thrée miles by
north east from Hartland. Comming therefore by west and east Putford,
Bulworthie, Bockington, Newton, and Shebbor, it receiueth a forked
rill that runneth from ech side of Bradworthie by Sutcombe, Treborow,
Milton, & so to Thornebirie, where méeting with an other forked water
(whereof one head comming from Dunsland, ioineth with the other north
of Cockbirie) it goeth with speed into the Tanridge water. After this
confluence it runneth on to Shéepewash (by west whereof falleth in the
[Sidenote: Buckland.]
Buckland water from by north) thence to high Hainton, and so to
Haitherlaie, north wherof it taketh in a rill from by south, and
endeth his race at Iddesleie, by ioining with the Oke. Hence then the
Ocus hasteth to Dowland, and betwéene it and Doulton, receiueth one
rill from by east, as it dooth an other betwéene Doulton and Marton
from by west, and so procéeding on with his course, it commeth east of
Torrington the lesse, and taking in a water at east, that runneth from
thrée heads (by Wollie parke) betweene which Combe and Roughborow are
situat, it descendeth to
[Sidenote: Langtrée.]
Torington the more, and meeting with the Langtrée water on the one
[Sidenote: Were or Ware.]
side, and the Ware brooke on the other, it procéedeth to Bediford,
crossing a rill by the waie that commeth vnto it betwéene Annarie &
Littham. From Bediford bridge it goeth without anie increase to
Westleie, Norham, Appledoure, and so into the hauen.
[Sidenote: Taw.]
The Taw of both is the more noble water, notwithstanding that his
hauen be barred with sand; and thereby dangerous, and hath most rils
descending into his chanell. Howbeit, by these two is all the hart of
Deuonshire well watered on the northside of the moores. The Tawy
riseth directlie at south west of Throwlie, and north of the head of
Darnt, or (as Leland saith) in Exmore south east from Barstable. From
thence also it runneth to Sele, South Taueton, Cockatre, Bath,
Northtaueton, Ashridge, Colridge, and soone after receiueth the
[Sidenote: Bowmill.]
Bowmill créeke, wherof one head riseth at Bow, the other at Mill, and
meeting beneth Bishops Morchard, they fall into the Taw north of
Nimeth Rowland, as I haue béene informed. From hence then it runneth
by Edgeforth, to Chimligh, by south whereof it méeteth with a rill
comming downe of two heads from about Rakenford, by Wetheridge and
Chawleie. Thence it goeth to Burrington, and Chiltenholtwood, and
[Sidenote: Moulebraie.]
there taketh in the Moulebraie water consisting of two in one chanell,
wherof the Moll dooth rise aboue north Moulton, and comming to Moulton
receiueth another rill running from Molland, and soone after the
second that growing by two brookes (the head of one being at Knawston,
and of the other west of Crokeham, and both vniting themselues beneath
Mariston) dooth fall into the same yer long also, and so go togither
[Sidenote: Braie.]
till it crosse the Braie, which (being the second of the two that
maketh the Moulbraie) riseth at Braie, commeth by Buckland, and south
of Holtwood dooth make his confluence with Taw. Being past the wood,
it goeth on to Brightleie hall, Taueton, Tauestocke, & Berstable,
sometime a pretie walled towne with foure gates, but now a little
thing; and such in déed, as that the suburbes thereof are greater than
it selfe. I suppose that the name of this towne in the British speach
was Abertaw, bicause it stood toward the mouth of Taw, and Berdnesse
pronounced short (as I gesse) for Abernesse. As for Staple, it is an
addition for a market, & therefore hath nothing to doo in the proper
name of the towne. King Athelstane is taken here for the chiefe
priuileger of the towne. This is also worthie to be noted hereof, that
the houses there are of stone, as most are in all the good townes
thereabout.
But to proceed with our purpose. Beneath this towne there falleth in a
water that hath one head néere about Challacombe, & another at east
Downe, whereof this descending by Stoke riuer, and the other by
Sherwell, they vnite themselues within thrée miles of Berstaple. Soone
after also it taketh in another that descendeth from Bitenden by
Ashford, and the last of all east of saint Anthonies chappell, named
[Sidenote: Doneham.]
the Doneham, bicause one head is at west Done, and the other at Ham,
both of them méeting west of Ash. And thus is Taue described, which is
no great water nor quicke streame, as may appéere in Low water marke
at Berstable and yet is it a pretie riueret. This also is worthie to
be noted thereof, that it receiueth no brooke from by west, whereof I
would somewhat maruell, if Taurige were not at hand.
Being past the Taue, Cride baie and Bugpoint aliàs Bagpoint, we go by
More baie, Morstone aliàs Mortstone, and then toward the northeast,
till we come by a créekelet to Ilfare combe, & so to Combe Marton,
whereat (I meane ech of them) are sundrie créekes of salt water, but
not serued with anie fresh that I as yet doo heare of. Marrie there is
betwéene Martinbow & Trensow, a créeke that hath a backewater, which
[Sidenote: Paradine.]
descendeth from Parracombe (so farre as I call to mind named Parradine
[Sidenote: Orus.]
becke) but the greatest of all is betweene Linton and Connisberie
called Ore, which riseth in Summersetshire in Exmore (east of Hore
oke, more than a mile) and going by Owre, falleth into the sea
betwéene Linton and Conisberie, so that the whole race thereof
amounteth in and out to an eight miles, as I haue heard reported. Thus
[Sidenote: The bredth of Deuonshire & Cornewall.]
haue I finished the discourse of the waters of Deuonshire, whose
breadth in this place from hence ouerthwart to the Checkstones in the
mouth of Ex, on the south side of the Ile, is eight and thirtie miles
or vnder fortie, and so much likewise is it from Plimmouth to Hartland
point, but the broadest part there commeth to six and thirtie miles,
whereas the broadest part of Cornewall doth want two miles of fortie.