Hauing (as you haue séene) attempted to set downe a full discourse of
all the Ilands, that are situat vpon the coast of Britaine, and
finding the successe not correspondent to mine intent, it hath caused
me somewhat to restreine my purpose in this description also of our
riuers. For whereas I intended at the first to haue written at large,
of the number, situation, names, quantities, townes, villages,
castels, mounteines, fresh waters, plashes or lakes, salt waters, and
other commodities of the aforesaid Iles, mine expectation of
information from all parts of England, was so deceiued in the end,
that I was faine at last onelie to leane to that which I knew my selfe
either by reading, or such other helpe as I had alreadie purchased and
gotten of the same. And euen so it happeneth in this my tractation of
waters, of whose heads, courses, length, bredth, depth of chanell (for
burden) ebs, flowings, and falles, I had thought to haue made a
perfect description vnder the report also of an imagined course taken
by them all. But now for want of instruction, which hath béene
largelie promised, & slacklie perfourmed, and other sudden and
iniurious deniall of helpe voluntarilie offered, without occasion
giuen on my part, I must needs content my selfe with such obseruations
as I haue either obteined by mine owne experience, or gathered from
time to time out of other mens writings: whereby the full discourse of
the whole is vtterlie cut off, and in steed of the same a mangled
rehearsall of the residue set downe and left in memorie.
Wherefore I beséech your honour to pardon this imperfection and
rudenesse of my labour, which notwithstanding is not altogither in
vaine, sith my errors maie prooue a spurre vnto the better skilled,
either to correct or inlarge where occasion serueth, or at the
leastwise to take in hand a more absolute péece of worke, as better
direction shall incourage them thereto. The entrance and beginning of
euerie thing is the hardest; and he that beginneth well, hath atchiued
halfe his purpose. The ice (my lord) is broken, and from hencefoorth
it will be more easie for such as shall come after to wade through
with the rest, sith "Facile est inuentis addere;" and to continue and
finish, is not so great a matter in building, as to attempt and laie
the foundation or platforme of anie noble péece of workmanship, though
[Sidenote: Thamesis.]
it be but rudelie handled. But to my purpose. As I began at the Thames
in my description of Ilands, so will I now doo the like with that of
famous riuers; making mine entrie at the said riuer it selfe, of whose
founteine some men make as much adoo, as in time past of the true head
of Nilus, which, till of late (if it be yet descried) was neuer found:
or the Tanais, whose originall was neuer knowne, nor shall be: for
whilest one placeth it here, another there; there are none at all that
deale with it exactlie. Wherefore leaning to such mens writings as
haue of set purpose sought out the spring of the Thames; I affirme
that this famous streame hath his head or beginning out of the side of
an hill, standing in the plaines of Cotswold, about one mile from
Tetburie, néere vnto the Fosse (an high waie so called of old) where
it was sometime named Isis, or the Ouse, although diuerse doo
ignorantlie call it the Thames euen there, rather of a foolish custome
than anie skill, bicause they either neglect or vtterlie are ignorant
how it was named at the first. From hence it runneth directlie toward
the east (as all good riuers should) and méeteth with the Cirne or
[Sidenote: Corinium.]
Churne, (a brooke called in Latine Corinium) whereof Cirncester towne
(by which it commeth) doth take the denomination.
From hence it hasteth vnto Créekelade, aliàs Crekanford, Lechlade,
Radcotebridge, Newbridge, and Eouesham, receiuing by the waie an
infinit sort of small streames, brookes, beckes, waters, and rundels:
and here on this side of the towne diuideth it selfe into two courses,
of which the one goeth straight to Botleie and Hinkseie, the other by
Godstow, a village not farre off. This latter spreadeth it selfe also
for a while into sundrie smaller branches, which run not farre yer
they be reunited, and then beclipping sundrie pleasant meadowes, it
passeth at length by Oxford, of some supposed rather to be called
[Sidenote: Charwell.]
Ouseford of this riuer, where it meeteth with the Charwell, and a
litle from whence the originall branches doo ioine and go togither by
Abbandune (aliàs Sensham or Abington as we call it) although no part
of it at the first came so néere the towne as it doth now, till a
branch thereof was led thither the maine streame, thorough the
[Sidenote: Some write, that the maine streame was brought thither
from which ranne before betweene Andredeseie and Culenham.]
industrie of the moonks, as (beside the testimonie of old records
thereof yet extant to be séene) by the decaie of Cair Dour, now
Dorchester it selfe, sometime the throughfare from Wales and the west
countrie to London, which insued vpon this fact, is easie to be seene.
From hence it goeth to Dorchester, and so to Thame, where ioining with
a riuer of the same denomination, it looseth the name of Isis or Ouse
(whereof Ouseneie at Oxford is producted) and from thenceforth is
called Thamesis. From Thame it goeth to Wallingford, and so to Reding,
which in time past, of the number of bridges there, was called
[Sidenote: Pontium.]
[Sidenote: Saint Marie ouer Rhee.]
Pontium; albeit that the English name doth rather proceed from Rhe, or
Ree, the Saxon word for a water-course or riuer; which maie be séene
in Ouerée, or Sutherée, for ouer the Ree, or south of the Rhee, as to
the skilfull doth readilie appéere; yet some hold (and not altogither
against probabilitie and likelihood) that the word Sutherée is so
called of Sudrijc, to wit, the south kingdome, wherevnto in part the
Thames is a bound. But that holdeth not in denomination, either of the
said church or name of the foresaid countie. Other affirme likewise,
that Reding is so called of the Greeke word ([Greek: rheô]) which is
to ouerflowe. Certes, as neither of these coniectures are to be
contemned, so the last c[=o]meth most neere to mine aid, who affirme,
that not onelie the course of euerie water it selfe, but also his
ouerflowing was in time past called Rhe, by such Saxons as inhabited
in this Iland: and euen to this daie in Essex I haue oft obserued,
that when the lower grounds by rage of water haue béene ouerflowen,
the people beholding the same, haue said; All is on a Rhe, as if they
should haue said; All is now a riuer, albeit the word Riuer be deriued
from the French, and borrowed by them from the Latins, but not without
corruption, as it was brought vnto them. I will not here giue notice
how farre they are deceiued, which call the aforesaid church by the
name of S. Marie Auderies, or S. Marie ouer Isis, or Ise: but I will
procéed with the course of this noble streame, which, howsoeuer these
matters stand after it hath passed by Reding, & there receiued the
[Sidenote: Kenet.]
[Sidenote: Thetis.]
Kenet, which commeth from the hilles that lie west of Marleborough (&
then the Thetis, commonlie called the Tide that commeth from
Thetisford) hieth to Sudlington otherwise called Maidenhead, and so to
Windleshore (or Windsore) Eaton, and then to Chertseie, where
Erkenwald bishop of London sometime builded a religious house or cell,
as I doo read.
From Chertseie it hasteth directlie vnto Stanes, and receiuing an
[Sidenote: Cole.]
other streame by the waie, called the Cole (wherevpon Colbrooke
standeth) it goeth by Kingstone, Shene, Sion and Brentford or
[Sidenote: Brene.]
Bregentford, where it méeteth the Brane or the Brene (another brooke
descending from Edgworth) whose name signifieth a frog, in the
Brittish speach. Vpon this also sir John Thin had sometime a statelie
house, with a maruellous prouision to inclose and reteine such fish as
should come about the same. From Brentfoord it passeth by Mortlach,
Putneie, Fulham, Batterseie, Chelseie, Lambeth, and so to London.
Finallie going from thence vnto the sea, it taketh the Lée with it by
the waie vpon the coast of Essex, and another that commeth from
[Sidenote: Darwent.]
Abreche not far off, and the Darnt vpon Kent side, which riseth néere
to Tanrige, and commeth by Shoreham, vnto Derntford, wherevnto the
[Sidenote: Craie.]
Craie falleth. And last of all the Medwaie a notable riuer (in mine
opinion) which watereth all the south and southwest part of Kent, and
whose description shall insue.
Hauing in this maner bréefelie touched this noble riuer, and such
brookes as fall into the same; I will now adde a particular
description of each of these last by themselues, whereby their courses
also shall be seuerallie described to the satisfaction of the
studious. But yer I take the same in hand, I will insert a word or two
of the commodities of the said riuer, which I will performe with so
much breuitie as is possible. Héereby also finding out his whole tract
and course from the head to the fall thereof into the sea. It
appeareth euidentlie that the length thereof is at the least, one
hundreth and eightie miles, if it be measured by the iourneies of the
land. And as it is in course, the longest of the thrée famous riuers
of this Ile, so it is nothing inferiour vnto them in aboundance of all
kind of fish, whereof it is hard to saie, which of the three haue
either most plentie, or greatest varietie, if the circumstances be
duelie weighed. What some other write of the riuers of their countries
it skilleth not, neither will I (as diuerse doo) inuent strange things
of this noble streame, therewith to nobilitate and make it more
honorable: but this will I in plaine termes affirme, that it neither
swalloweth vp bastards of the Celtish brood, or casteth vp the right
begotten that are throwne in without hurt into their mothers lap, as
Politian fableth of the Rhene, Epistolarum lib. 8. epi. 6. nor
yéeldeth clots of gold as the Tagus dooth: but an infinit plentie of
excellent, swéet and pleasant fish, wherewith such as inhabit néere
vnto hir bankes are fed and fullie nourished.
[Sidenote: Salmons.]
What should I speake of the fat and swéet salmons, dailie taken in
this streame, and that in such plentie (after the time of the smelt be
past) as no riuer in Europa is able to excéed it. What store also of
barbels, trouts, cheuins, pearches, smelts, breames, roches, daces,
gudgings, flounders, shrimps, &c: are commonlie to be had therein, I
refer me to them that know by experience better than I, by reason of
their dailie trade of fishing in the same. And albeit it seemeth from
time to time, to be as it were defrauded in sundrie wise of these hir
large commodities, by the insatiable auarice of the fishermen, yet
this famous riuer complaineth commonlie of no want, but the more it
[Sidenote: Carps a fish late brought into England
and later into the Thames.]
looseth at one time, the more it yéeldeth at another. Onelie in carps
it séemeth to be scant, sith it is not long since that kind of fish
was brought ouer into England, and but of late to speake of into this
streame, by the violent rage of sundrie landflouds, that brake open
the heads and dams of diuers gentlemens ponds, by which means it
became somewhat partaker also of this said commoditie, whereof earst
it had no portion that I could euer heare. Oh that this riuer might be
spared but euen one yeare from nets, &c! But alas then should manie a
poore man be vndoone. In the meane time it is lamentable to see, how
it is and hath béene choked of late with sands and shelues, through
the penning and wresting of the course of the water for commodities
sake. But as this is an inconuenience easilie remedied, if good order
were taken for the redresse thereof: so now, the fine or prise set
vpon the ballasse sometime freelie giuen to the merchants by patent,
euen vnto the lands end (Iusques au poinct) will be another cause of
harme vnto this noble streame, and all through an aduantage taken at
the want of an (i) in the word ponct: which grew through an error
committed by an English notarie vnskilfull in the French toong,
wherein that patent was granted.
Furthermore, the said riuer floweth and filleth all his chanels twise
in the daie and night, that is in euerie twelue houres once; and this
ebbing & flowing, holdeth on for the space of seauentie miles, within
the maine land: the streame or tide being alwaies highest at London,
when the moone dooth exactlie touch the northeast and south or west
points of the heauens, of which one is visible, the other vnder the
earth, and not subiect to our sight. These tides also differ in their
times, each one comming latter than other, by so manie minuts as passe
yer the reuolution and naturall course of the heauens doo reduce, and
bring about the said planet vnto those hir former places: whereby the
[Sidenote: The iust dist[=a]ce betwéene one tide and another.]
36 common difference betwéene one tide and another, is found to
consist of twentie foure minuts, which wanteth but twelue of an whole
houre in foure and twentie, as experience dooth confirme. In like sort
we sée by dailie triall, that each tide is not of equall heigth and
greatnesse: for at the full and change of the moone we haue the
greatest flouds, and such is their ordinarie course, that as they
diminish from their changes and fuls, vnto the first and last
quarters; so afterwards they increase againe, vntill they come to the
full and change. Sometimes also they rise so high (if the wind be at
the north or northeast, which bringeth in the water with more
vehemencie, bicause the tide which filleth the chanell, commeth from
Scotland ward) that the Thames ouerfloweth hir banks néere vnto
London: which hapneth especiallie in the fuls and changes of Januarie
and Februarie, wherein the lower grounds are of custome soonest
drowned. This order of flowing in like sort is perpetuall, so that
when the moone is vpon the southwest and north of points, then is the
water by London at the highest: neither doo the tides alter, except
some rough winds out of the west or southwest doo kéepe backe and
[Sidenote: The streame oft checked in hir entrance into the land.]
checke the streame in his entrance, as the east and northeast do
hasten the comming in thereof, or else some other extraordinarie
occasion, put by the ordinarie course of the northerne seas, which
fill the said riuer by their naturall returne and flowing. And that
both these doo happen eft among, I refer me to such as haue not
sildome obserued it, as also the sensible chopping in of thrée or
foure tides in one naturall daie, wherof the vnskilfull doo descant
manie things.
But how so euer these small matters doo fall out, and how often soeuer
this course of the streame doth happen to be disturbed; yet at two
seuerall times of the age of the moone, the waters returne to their
naturall course and limits of time exactlie. Polydore saith, that this
riuer is seldome increased or rather neuer ouerfloweth hir banks by
landflouds: but he is herein verie much deceiued, as it shalbe more
apparentlie séene hereafter. For the more that this riuer is put by of
hir right course, the more the water must of necessitie swell with the
white waters which run downe from the land: bicause the passage cannot
be so swift and readie in the winding as in the streight course. These
landflouds also doo greatlie straine the finesse of the streame, in so
much that after a great landfloud, you shall take haddocks with your
hands beneath the bridge, as they flote aloft vpon the water, whose
eies are so blinded with the thicknesse of that element, that they
cannot see where to become, and make shift to saue themselues before
death take hold of them. Otherwise the water of it selfe is verie
cléere, and in comparison next vnto that of the sea, which is most
subtile and pure of all other; as that of great riuers is most
excellent, in comparison of smaller brookes: although Aristotle will
haue the salt water to be most grosse, bicause a ship will beare a
greater burden on the sea than on the fresh water; and an eg sinke in
this that swimmeth on the other. But he may easilie be answered by the
quantitie of roome and aboundance of waters in the sea; whereby it
becommeth of more force to susteine such vessels as are committed to
the same, and whervnto the greatest riuers (God wot) are nothing
comparable. I would here make mention of sundrie bridges placed ouer
[Sidenote: London bridge.]
this noble streame, of which that of London is most chieflie to be
commended, for it is in maner a c[=o]tinuall street, well replenished
with large and statelie houses on both sides, and situat vpon twentie
arches, whereof ech one is made of excellent free squared stone,
euerie of them being thréescore foot in height, and full twentie in
distance one from another, as I haue often viewed.
In like maner I could intreat of the infinit number of swans dailie to
[Sidenote: 2000 boates vpon the Thames and 3000 poore m[=e]
mainteined by the same whose gaines come in most
plentifullie in the tearme time.]
be séene vpon this riuer, the two thousand wherries and small boats,
wherby three thousand poore watermen are mainteined, through the
cariage and recariage of such persons as passe or repasse, from time
to time vpon the same: beside those huge tideboats, tiltbotes, and
barges, which either carrie passengers, or bring necessarie prouision
from all quarters of Oxfordshire, Barkeshire, Buckinghamshire,
Bedfordshire, Herfordshire, Midlesex, Essex, Surrie, and Kent, vnto
the citie of London. But for somuch as these things are to be repeated
againe in the particular description of London, annexed to his card; I
surceasse at this time to speake anie more of them here, as not
lingering but hasting to performe my promise made euen now, not yet
forgotten, and in performance whereof I thinke it best to resume the
description of this noble riuer againe into my hands, and in adding
whatsoeuer is before omitted, to deliuer a full and perfect
demonstration of his course. How and where the said streame ariseth,
is alreadie & with sufficiencie set downe, noting the place to be
within a mile of Tetburie, whereof some doo vtterlie mislike, bicause
that rill in summer drouths is oft so drie, that there is little or no
water at all séene running aboue ground in the same. For this cause
[Sidenote: Isis.]
therefore manie affirme the verie head of Isis to come from the poole
aboue Kemble. Other confound it with the head of the Cirne or Chirne,
called in Latine Corinium that riseth aboue Coberleie. For my part I
follow Leland, as he dooth the moonke of Malmesburie, which wrote the
historie intituled Eulogium historiarum, who searched the same of set
purpose, and pronounced with Leland, although at this present that
course be verie small, and choked vp (as I heare) with grauell and
sand. Procéeding therefore from the head, it first of all receiueth
[Sidenote: Couus.]
the Kemble water called the Coue, which riseth aboue Kemble towne,
goeth by Kemble it selfe vnto Poole and Somerford, and then
(accompanieth the Thames) vnto Canes, Ashton, Canes, and Howston,
holding on in one chanell vntill they méet with the Chirne, the next
of all to be described.
[Sidenote: Corinium.]
The Chirne is a faire water arising out of the ground aboue Coberleie,
from whence it runneth to Cowleie, Cowlesburne, Randcome, and so into
the Isis on the left side aboue Crekelade. These thrée waters being
thus vnited and brought into one chanell, within a little space of the
head of Isis, it runneth on by Crekelade, beneath which towne it
[Sidenote: Rhe.]
receiueth the Rhe, descending from Elcombe, Escot, Redburne, Widhill,
& at the fall into Isis, or not far off ioineth with another that
runneth west of Purton by Braden forrest, &c. Next of all our Isis
[Sidenote: Amneie.]
méeteth with the Amneie on the left hand, which comming from aboue
Holie roode Amneie, runneth by Downe Amneie, and finallie into the
Isis a little aboue Iseie. In like sort I read of another that méeteth
withall on the right hand aboue Iseie also, which so far as I can call
to remembrance, commeth from about Drifield and falleth so into our
Isis, that they run as one vntill they come at the Colne, although not
so nakedlie and without helpe, but that in this voiage, the maine
streame dooth crosse one water that descendeth from Swindon, and going
also by Stratton toward Seuingham, is it selfe increased with two rils
by the waie, whereof one commeth from Liddenton by Wambreie, as I haue
béene informed.
[Sidenote: Colneius, Colineus, or Colunus.]
The Colne is a faire riuer rising by north neere to Witchington, &
from thence goeth to Shiptons, Compton Abdale, Wittenton, Parneworth,
Colne Deanes, and Colne Rogers, Winston, Biberie, Colne Alens,
Quenington, Faireford, and west of Lachelade into the riuer Isis,
which hereabout on the southside also taketh in another, whereof I
find this remembrance. The Isis being once past Seuingham, crosseth a
brooke from southest that mounteth about Ashbirie, and receiuing a
rill from bywest (that commeth from Hinton) beneath Shrineham, it
afterward so diuideth it selfe, that the armes therof include
Inglesham, and by reason that it falleth into the Isis at two seuerall
places, there is a plesant Iland producted, whereof let this suffice.
[Sidenote: Lecusor Leche.]
Being past Lechelade a mile, it runneth to saint Johns bridge, &
thereabout méeteth with the Leche on the left hand. This brooke,
whereof Lechlade taketh the name (a towne wherevnto one péece of an
old vniuersitie is ascribed, which it did neuer possesse, more than
Crekelade did the other) riseth east of Hampnet, fr[=o] whence it
goeth to north Lech, Estenton, Anlesworth, east Lech, south Thorpe,
Farendon, & so into the Isis. From hence this famous water goeth by
Kenskot toward Radcote bridge (taking in the rill that riseth in an od
péece of Barkeshire, and runneth by Langford) and being past the said
bridge (now notable through a conspiracie made there sometimes by
sundrie barons against the estate) it is not long yer it crosse two
other waters, both of them descending from another od parcell of the
said countie, whereof I haue this note giuen me for my further
information. There are two fals of water into Isis beneath Radcote
bridge, wherof the one commeth from Shilton in Barkeshire by Arescote,
blacke Burton and Clarrefield. The other also riseth in the same
péece, and runneth by Brisenorton vnto Bampton, and there receiuing an
armelet from the first that breake off at blacke Burton, it is not
long yer they fall into Isis, and leaue a pretie Iland. After these
confluences, the maine course of the streame hasteth by Shifford to
[Sidenote: Winrush.]
Newbridge, where it ioineth with the Winrush. The Winrush riseth aboue
Shieburne in Glocestershire, from whence it goeth to Winrush, &
c[=o]ming by Barrington, Burford, Widbrooke, Swinbecke castell,
Witneie, Duckington, Cockthorpe, Stanlake, it méeteth with the Isis
west by south of Northmore. From hence it goeth beneath Stanton,
Hartingcourt and Ensham, betwéene which and Cassinton, it receiueth
[Sidenote: Briwerus.]
(as Leland calleth it) the Bruerne water.
It riseth aboue Limington, and going to Norton in the Marsh, and
through a patch of Worcestershire vnto Euenlode, betweene it and the
[Sidenote: Comus.]
foure shirestones, it taketh in a rill called Come, comming by the
long and the little Comptons. After this also it goeth by Bradwell,
Odington, and so to Bleddenton, aboue which towne it taketh in the
[Sidenote: Rolrich.]
Rolrich water that issueth at two heads, in the hils that lie by west
of little Rolrich, and ioine aboue Kenkeham, and Church hill. From
thence also it goeth vnto Bruerne, Shipton vnderwood, Ascot, Short
hamton, Chorleburie, Corneburie parke, Stonfield, Longcombe, and
[Sidenote: Enis.]
southeast of Woodstocke parke, taketh in the Enis, that riseth aboue
Emstone, and goeth to Ciddington, Glimton, Wotton (where it is
increased with a rill that runneth thither from stéeple Barton, by the
Béechin trée) Woodstocke, Blaidon, so that after this confluence, the
said Enis runneth to Cassinton, and so into the Isis, which goeth from
hence to Oxford, and there receiueth the Charwell, now presentlie to
be described.
[Sidenote: Charwell.]
The head of Charwell is in Northamptonshire, where it riseth out of a
little poole, by Charleton village, seuen miles aboue Banberie
northeast, and there it issueth so fast at the verie surge, that it
groweth into a pretie streame, in maner out of hand. Soone after also
[Sidenote: Bure.]
it taketh in a rillet called the Bure, which falleth into it, about
Otmere side: but forasmuch as it riseth by Bincester, the whole course
therof is not aboue foure miles, and therefore cannot be great. A
friend of mine prosecuting the rest of this description reporteth
thereof as followeth. Before the Charwell commeth into Oxfordshire, it
[Sidenote: Culen.]
receiueth the Culen, which falleth into the same, a little aboue
Edgcote, and so descending toward Wardington, it méeteth with another
comming from by north west, betweene Wardington and Cropreadie. At
[Sidenote: Come.]
Banberie also it méeteth with the Come (which falleth from fennie
Conton by Farneboro, and afterwards going by kings Sutton, not far
from Aine, it receiueth the discharge of diuerse rillets, in one
bottome before it come at Clifton. The said water therfore ingendred
of so manie brookelets, consisteth chiefelie of two, whereof the most
[Sidenote: Ocus.]
southerlie called Oke, commeth from Oke Norton, by Witchington or
Wiggington, and the Berfords; and carieng a few blind rils withall,
dooth méet with the other that falleth from by northwest into the
same, within a mile of Charwell.
That other (as I coniecture) is increased of thrée waters, wherof each
[Sidenote: Tudo.]
one hath his seuerall name. The first of them therefore hight Tudo,
which comming betwéene Epwell and the Lée by Toddington, ioineth about
[Sidenote: Ornus.]
Broughton with the second that runneth from Horneton, named Ornus, as
I gesse. The last falleth into the Tude or Tudelake, beneath
Broughton; and for that it riseth not far from Sotteswell in
Warwikeshire, some are of the opinion, that it is to be called
[Sidenote: Sotbrooke.]
Sotbrooke. The next water that méeteth without Charwell beneath
[Sidenote: Souarus.]
[Sidenote: Sowar.]
Clifton commeth from about Croughton, and after this is the Sowar or
Swere, that riseth north of Michaell Tew, and runneth by nether
[Sidenote: Burus.]
Wotton. The last of all is the Reie aliàs Bure, whose head is not far
aboue Burcester, aliàs Bincester, and Burncester: and from whence it
goeth by Burecester to Merton, Charleton, Fencote, Addington, Noke,
Islip, and so into Charwell, that holdeth on his course after this
augmentation of the waters, betwéene Wood and Water Eton, to Marston,
and the east bridge of Oxford by Magdalene college, and so beneath the
south bridge into our aforesaid Isis.
[Sidenote: Middest of England whereabouts.]
In describing this riuer, this one thing (right honorable) is come
vnto my mind, touching the center and nauill as it were of England.
Certes there is an hillie plot of ground in Helledon parish, not far
from Danberie, where a man maie stand and behold the heads of thrée
notable riuers, whose waters, and those of such as fall into them, doo
abundantlie serue the greatest part of England on this side of the
Humber. The first of these waters is the Charwell, alreadie described.
The second is the Leme that goeth westward into the fourth Auon. And
the third is the head of the Nene or fift Auon it selfe, of whose
courses there is no card but doth make sufficient mention; and
therefore your honour maie behold in the same how they doo coast the
countrie, and also measure by compasses how this plot lieth in respect
of all the rest, contrarie to common iudgement, which maketh
Northampton to be the middest and center of our countrie.
But to go forward with my description of the Ouse, which being past
Oxford goeth to Iflie, Kennington, Sanford, Rodleie, Newnham, and so
to Abington, som time called Sensham, without increase, where it
[Sidenote: Ocus.]
receiueth the Oche, otherwise called the Coche, a little beneath S.
Helens, which runneth thither of two brooklets, as I take it, whereof
one commeth from Compton, out of the vale and west of the hill of the
White horsse, the other from Kings Letcombe, and Wantage in Barkshire,
and in one chanell, entreth into the same, vpon the right side of his
[Sidenote: Arun.]
course. From Abington likewise (taking the Arun withall southwest of
Sutton Courtneie) it goeth by Appleford, long Wittenham, Clifton,
Wittenham the lesse, & beneath Dorchester, taketh in the Thame water,
from whence the Isis loseth the preheminence of the whole denomination
of this riuer, and is contented to impart the same with the Thame, so
that by the coniunction of these two waters Thamesis is producted, and
that name continued euen vnto the sea.
[Sidenote: Thame.]
Thame riuer riseth in the easterlie parts of Chilterne hils, towards
Penleie parke, at a towne called Tring west of the said parke, which
is seauen miles from the stone bridge, that is betweene Querendon and
Ailsburie (after the course of the water) as Leland hath set downe.
Running therefore by long Merston, and Puttenham, Hucket, and Bearton,
it receiueth soone after a rill that commeth by Querendon from
Hardwike, and yer long an other on the other side that riseth aboue
Windouer in the Chilterne, and passing by Halton, Weston, Turrill,
Broughton, and Ailsburie, it falleth into the Tame west of the said
towne (except my memorie doo faile me.) From this confluence the Tame
goeth by Ethorpe, the Winchingtons, Coddington, Chersleie, Notleie
abbeie: and comming almost to Tame, it receiueth one water from
southeast aboue the said towne, and another also from the same quarter
beneath the towne; so that Tame standeth inuironed vpon thrée sides
with thrée seuerall waters, as maie be easilie séene. The first of
these commeth from the Chiltern east of Below or Bledlow, from whence
it goeth to Hinton, Horsenden, Kingseie, Towseie, and so into the
Tame. The other descendeth also from the Chilterne, and going by
Chinner, Crowell, Siddenham, and Tame parke, it falleth in the end
into Tame water, and then they procéed togither as one by Shabbington,
Ricot parke, Dracot, Waterstoke, Milton, Cuddesdon, and Chiselton.
Here also it taketh in another water from by-east, whose head commeth
from Chilterne hils, not farre from Stocking church, in the waie from
Oxford to London. From whence it runneth to Weston (and méeting
beneath Cuxham with Watlington rill) it goeth onto Chalgraue, Stadham,
and so into the Tame. From hence our streame of Thame runneth to
Newenton, Draton, Dorchester (sometime a bishops see, and a noble
citie) and so into the Thames, which hasteth in like sort to
[Sidenote: Blauius.]
Bensington, Crowmarsh, or Wallingford, where it receiueth the Blaue,
descending from Blaueburg, now Blewberie, as I learne.
Thus haue I brought the Thames vnto Wallingford, situate in the vale
of White horsse, that runneth a long therby. From hence it goeth by
Newenham, north Stoke, south Stoke, Goring, Bassilden, Pangburne,
where it meeteth with a water that commeth from about Hamsted Norris,
runneth by Frizelham, Buckelburie, Stanford, Bradfeld, Tidmarsh and
Pangburne. After which confluence it goeth on betweene Mapledorham and
Purleie, to Cauersham, and Cauersham manour, and a little beneath
receiueth the Kenet that commeth thereinto from Reading.
[Sidenote: Cenethus.]
The Kenet riseth aboue Ouerton 5 or 6 miles west of Marleborow, or
Marlingsborow, as some call it; & then going by Fifeld, Clatfor,
Maulon, & Preshute, vnto Marleburie: it holdeth on in like order to
Ramsburie, and northwest of little Cote, taketh in a water by north
descending from the hilles aboue Alburne chase west of Alburne town.
Thence it runneth to little Cote, Charnhamstréet, & beneth
[Sidenote: Bedwiine.]
[Sidenote: Chalkeburne.]
Charnhamstréet it crosseth the Bedwin, which (taking the Chalkburne
rill withall) commeth from great Bedwijne, & at Hungerford also two
other in one botom somewhat beneath the towne. From hence it goeth to
Auington, Kinburie, Hamsted marshall, Euburne, Newberie; and beneath
[Sidenote: Lamburne.]
this towne, taketh in the Lamburne water that commeth by Isberie,
Egerston, the Sheffords, Westford, Boxford, Donington castell, and
[Sidenote: Alburnus.]
Shaw. From Newberie it goeth to Thatcham, Wolhampton, Aldermaston, a
little aboue which village it receiueth the Alburne, another brooke
increased with sundrie rils: and thus going on to Padworth, Oston, and
Michaell, it commeth at last to Reading, where (as I said) it ioineth
with the Thames, and so they go forward as one by Sonning to Shiplake,
and there on the east side receiue the Loddon that commeth downe
thither from the south, as by his course appéereth.
[Sidenote: Lodunus.]
The Loddon riseth in Hamshire betwéene west Shirburne and Wooton
toward the southwest, afterward directing his course toward the
northwest, thorough the Vine, it passeth at the last by Bramlie, and
thorough a peece of Wiltshire, to Stradfield, Swallowfield,
Arberfield, Loddon bridge, leauing a patch of Wiltshire on the right
hand (as I haue béene informed.) This Loddon not far from Turges towne
receiueth two waters in one bottome, whereof the westerlie called
Basing water, commeth from Basingstoke, and thorough a parke vnto the
aforesaid place.
The other descendeth of two heads from Mapledour well, and goeth by
Skewes, Newenham, Rotherwijc, and yer it come at Hartlie, ioineth with
the Basing water, from whence they go togither to Turges, where they
méet with the Loddon (as I haue said alreadie.) The next streame
[Sidenote: Ditis vadum.]
toward the south is called Ditford brooke. It riseth not farre from
Vpton, goeth by Gruell, and beneath Wharnborow castell receiueth the
[Sidenote: Ikelus.]
Ikell (comming from a parke of the same denomination) from whence they
go togither by Maddingleie vnto Swalowfield, and so into the Loddon.
[Sidenote: Elueius.]
In this voiage also the Loddon méeteth with the Elwie or Elueie that
commeth from Aldershare, not farre by west of Euersleie: and about
[Sidenote: Ducus.]
Eluesham likewise with another running from Dogmansfield named the
[Sidenote: Erin.]
Douke: and also the third not inferior to the rest comming from Erin,
whose head is in Surreie, and going by Ash becommeth a limit, first
betwéene Surreie and Hamshire; then betwéene Hamshire and Barkeshire,
and passing by Ash, Erinleie, Blacke water, Perleie, and Finchamsted;
it ioineth at last with the Ditford, before it come at Swalowfield. To
conclude therefore with our Loddon, hauing receiued all these waters;
and after the last confluence with them now being come to Loddon
bridge, it passeth on by a part of Wiltshire to Twiford bridge, then
to Wargraue, and so into the Thames that now is maruellouslie
increased and growen vnto triple greatnesse (to that it was at
Oxford.)
Being therefore past Shiplake and Wargraue, it runneth by Horsependon,
or Harding: then to Henleie vpon Thames, where sometime a great rill
voideth it selfe in the same. Then to Remenham, Greneland (going all
this waie from Shiplake iust north, and now turning eastwards againe)
by Medenham, Hurlie, Bisham, Marlow the greater, Marlow the lesse, it
meeteth with a brooke soone after that consisteth of the water of two
[Sidenote: Vsa.]
rilles, whereof the one called the Vse, riseth about west Wickham, out
of one of the Chilterne hilles, and goeth from thence to east Wickham
or high Wickham, a pretie market towne. The other named Higden,
[Sidenote: Higden.]
descendeth also from those mounteines but a mile beneath west Wickham,
and ioining both in one at the last, in the west end of east Wickham
towne, they go togither to Wooburne, Hedsor, & so into the Thames.
Some call it the Tide; and that word doo I vse in my former treatise:
but to procéed. After this confluence our Thames goeth on by Cowkham,
Topleie, Maidenhead, aliàs Sudlington, Braie, Dorneie, Clure, new
Windsore (taking in neuerthelesse, at Eaton by the waie, the Burne
which riseth out of a Moore, & commeth thither by Burnham) old
Windsor, Wraiborow, and a little by east therof doth crosse the Cole,
whereof I find this short description insuing.
[Sidenote: Colus, aliàs Vere and Vertume.]
The Cole riseth néere vnto Flamsted, from whence it goeth to Redburn,
S. Michaels, S. Albons, Aldenham, Watford, and so by More to
Richmansworth, where there is a confluence of three waters, of which
[Sidenote: Gadus.]
this Cole is the first. The second called Gadus riseth not farre from
Ashridge, an house or palace belonging to the prince: from whence it
runneth to great Gaddesdin, Hemsted, betwéene Kings Langleie, and
Abbots Langleie, then to Hunters, and Cashew bridges, and so to
Richmanswoorth, receiuing by the waie a rill comming from Alburie by
northwest, to Northchurch, Barkehamsted, and beneath Hemsted ioining
with the same. The last commeth in at northwest from aboue Chesham, by
Chesham it selfe, then by Chesham Bois, Latimers, Mawdlens, Cheinies,
Sarret and Richmanswoorth, and so going on all in one chanell vnder
the name of Cole, it runneth to Vxbridge, where it taketh in the
Missenden water, from northwest, which rising aboue Missenden the
greater goeth by Missenden the lesse, Hagmondesham (now Hammersham)
the Vach, Chalfhunt Giles, Chalfhunt S. Peters, Denham, and then into
the Cole aboue Vxbridge (as I haue said.) Soone after this our Cole
doth part it selfe into two branches, neuer to ioine againe before
they come at the Thames, for the greater of them goeth thorough the
goodlie medows straight to Colebrooke, the other vnto two milles, a
mile and a halfe east of Colebrooke, in the waie to London, leauing an
Iland betwéene them of no small size and quantitie.
[Sidenote: Vindeles.]
Being past the Cole, we come to the fall of the Vindeles, which riseth
by northwest néere vnto Bagshot, from whence it goeth to Windlesham,
Chobham, and méeting with a brooklet comming westward from Bisleie,
they run togither toward Cherteseie, where when they haue met with a
small rill rising north of Sonning hill in Windlesoure great parke, it
falleth into the Thames on the northeast side of Cherteseie. When we
were come beyond this water, it was not long yer we came vnto another
on the same side, that fell into the Thames betweene Shepperton on the
[Sidenote: Veius.]
one side, and Oteland on the other, and is called the Waie. The Weie
or the Waie rising by west, commeth from Olsted, & soone after taking
the Hedleie brooke withall (which riseth in Wulmere forrest, and goeth
by Hedleie and Frensham) hasteth by Bentleie, Farnham, Alton,
Waiberleie, Elsted, and so to Pepper harrow, where it ioineth with the
[Sidenote: Thuresbie.]
Thuresbie water, which commeth not farre off from a village of the
same denomination. From hence also it goeth to Godalming, and then
toward Shawford, but yer it come there, it crosseth Craulie becke,
which rising somewhere about the edge of Sussex short of Ridgewijc,
[Sidenote: Crawleie.]
goeth by Vacherie parke, Knoll, Craulie, Bramleie, Wonarsh, and so
into the Waie. From hence then our riuer goeth to Shawford, and soone
[Sidenote: Abbinger.]
after (méeting with the Abbinger water that commeth by Shere, Albirie,
and the chappell on the hill) it proceedeth to Guldeford, thence to
Stoke, Sutton in the parke, Send, Woking, and at Newarke parke side
taketh in a brooke that riseth of two heads, whereof one dooth spring
betwéene two hils north of Pepper harrow, and so runneth through
Henleie parke, the other aboue Purbright, and afterward ioining in
one, they go foorth vnto Newarke, and being there vnited, after the
confluence it goeth to Purford court, to Bifler, Waifred, Oteland, and
so into the Thames.
[Sidenote: Molts.]
From Oteland the Thames goeth by Walton, Sunburie, west Moulseie,
Hampton, and yer it come at Hampton court on the northside, and east
Moulseie on the other, it taketh in the Moule water, which giueth name
vnto the two townes that stand on each side of the place, where it
falleth into our streame. It riseth in Word forrest, and going by
Burstow, it méeteth afterward with another gullet, conteining a small
course from two seuerall heads, whereof one is also in the forrest
aforenamed, the other runneth from Febush wood, and comming by Iseld,
méeteth with the first aboue Horleie, and so run on in one chanell, I
saie, till they ioine with the Moule water, whereof I spake before.
After this confluence in like sort, it is not long yer the Moule take
in another from by north, which commeth from about Mesham on the one
side, and another on the other side, running by Ocleie and Capell, and
whereinto also a branch or rill commeth from a wood on the northwest
part. Finallie, being thus increased with these manie rilles, it goeth
by east Becheworth, west Becheworth, and ouer against the Swalow on
the side of Drake hill, taking in another that c[=o]meth thither from
Wootton by Darking and Milton, it runneth to Mickleham, Letherhed,
Stoke, Cobham, Ashire parke, east Moulseie, and so into the Thames,
which after this coniunction goeth on to Kingston, and there also
méeteth with another becke, rising at Ewell south of Nonsuch. Certes,
this rill goeth from Ewell by the old parke, then to Mauldon, & so to
Kingston towne. The Thames in like maner being past Kingston, goeth to
Tuddington, Petersham, Twickenham, Richmond, and Shene, where it
receiueth a water on the northwest side, which comming from about
Harrow on the hill, and by west of the same, goeth by Haies,
Harlington, Felthan, and Thistleworth into the Thames.
The next fall of water is at Sion, néere vnto new Brainford, so that
[Sidenote: Brane.]
it issueth into the Thames betwéen them both. This water is called
Brane, that is in the Brittish toong (as Leland saith) a frog. It
riseth about Edgeworth, and commeth from thence by Kingesburie,
Twiford, Periuall, Hanwell, and Austerleie. Thence we followed our
riuer to old Brentford, Mortlach, Cheswijc, Barnelmes, Fulham, and
Putneie, beneath which townes it crossed a becke from Wandlesworth,
that riseth at Woodmans turne, and going by Easthalton, méeteth
another comming from Croidon by Bedington, and so going on to Mitcham,
Marton abbeie, and Wandlesworth, it is not long yer it fall into the
[Sidenote: Mariburne.]
Thames. Next vnto this is Mariburne rill on the other side, which
commeth in by S. Iames, so that by this time we haue either brought
the Thames, or the Thames conueied vs to London, where we rested for a
season to take view of the seuerall tides there, of which each one
differeth from other, by foure & twentie minuts, that is fortie eight
in a whole daie, as I haue noted before, except the wether alter them.
Being past London, and in the waie toward the sea: the first water
that it méeteth withall, is the Brome on Kent side, west of
[Sidenote: Bromis.]
Gréenewich, whose head is Bromis in Bromleie parish, and going from
thence to Lewsham, it taketh in a water from by east, and so directeth
his course foorth right vnto the Thames.
The next water that it méeteth withall, is on Essex side, almost
[Sidenote: Lée.]
against Woolwich, and that is the Lée or Luie, whose head riseth short
of Kempton in Hertfordshire, foure miles southeast of Luton, sometime
[Sidenote: Logus.]
called Logodunum or Logrodunum, & going through a péece of Brokehall
parke (leauing Woodhall parke on the north, and Hatfield on the south,
with another parke adioining) it goeth toward Hartford towne. But yer
[Sidenote: Marran.]
it come there, it receiueth a water (peraduenture the Marran) rising
at northwest in Brodewater hundred, from aboue Welwin, northeast of
Digeswell, and going to Hartingfeld burie, where the said confluence
is within one mile of the towne. Beneath Hatfield also it receiueth
[Sidenote: Beane.]
the Beane (as I gesse) comming from Boxwood by Benington, Aston,
Watton, and Stapleford, and a little lower, the third arme of increase
from aboue Ware, which descendeth from two heads: whereof the greatest
commeth from Barkewaie in Edwinster hundred, the other Sandon in
Oddesey hundred, and after they be met beneath little Hornemeade, they
go togither by Pulcherchurch, or Puckrich, Stonden, Thunderidge,
Wadesmill, Benghoo, and so into the Lée, which from hence runneth on
till it come at Ware, which was drowned by the rage of the same 1408,
and so to Amwell, where on the north side it receiueth the water that
commeth from little Hadham, through a péece of Singleshall parke, then
by great Hadham, and so from Widford to the aforesaid towne. From
hence also they go as one to old Stansted called Le Veil, branching in
such wise yer it come there, that it runneth through the towne in
sundrie places. Thence it goeth foorth to Abbats Stansted, beneath
[Sidenote: Sturus.]
which it méeteth with the Stoure, west (as I remember) of Roidon. This
Sture riseth at Wenden lootes, from whence it goeth to Langleie,
Clauering, Berden, Manhuden, & Birchanger (where it taketh a rill
comming from Elsingham, & Stansted Mountfitchet.) Thence it hieth on
to Bishops Stourford, Sabrichfoord, and beneath this towne crosseth
with another from the east side of Elsingham, that goeth to Hatfield,
Brodocke, Shiring, Harlo, & so into the Stoure, and from whence they
go togither to Eastwic, Parmedon, and next into the Lée. These things
being thus performed, the Lée runneth on beneath Hoddesdon, Broxburne,
and Wormleie, where a water breaketh out by west of the maine streame,
a mile lower than Wormeleie it selfe, but yet within the paroch, and
is called Wormeleie locke.
It runneth also by Cheston nunrie, and out of this a little beneath
the said house, breaketh an arme called the Shirelake, bicause it
diuideth Eastsex and Hartford shire in sunder, and in the length of
one medow called Fritheie. This lake runneth not but at great flouds,
and méeteth againe with a succor of ditchwater, at a place called
Hockesditch, halfe a mile from his first breaking out, and halfe a
mile lower at Marsh point ioineth againe with the streame from whence
it came before. Thence commeth the first arme to S. Maulie bridge (the
first bridge westward vpon that riuer) vpon Waltham causie, & halfe a
mile lower than Maulie bridge, at the corner of Ramnie mead, it
méeteth with the kings streame & principall course of Luy, or Lee, as
it is commonlie called. The second arme breaketh out of the kings
streame at Halifield halfe a mile lower than Cheston nunrie, and so to
the fulling mill, and two bridges by west of the kings streame,
wherinto it falleth about a stones cast lower at a place called
Malkins shelffe, except I was wrong informed. Cheston & Hartfordshire
men doo saie, that the kings streame at Waltham dooth part
Hartfordshire and Essex, but the Essex men by forrest charter doo
plead their liberties to hold vnto S. Maulies bridge. On the east side
also of the kings streame breaketh out but one principall arme at
Halifield, three quarters of a mile aboue Waltham, & so goeth to the
corne mill in Waltham, and then to the K. streame againe a little
beneath the kings bridge.
From hence the Lée runneth on by south on Waltonstow till it come to
Stretford Langthorne, where it brancheth partlie of it selfe, and
[Sidenote: Alfred.]
partlie by mans industrie for mils. Howbeit heerein the dealing of
Alfred (sometimes king of England) was not of smallest force, who
vnderstanding the Danes to be gotten vp with their ships into the
countrie, there to kill and slaie his subiects, in the yeere of grace
896, by the conduct of this riuer: he in the meane time before they
could returne, did so mightilie weaken the maine chanell, by drawing
great numbers of trenches from the same; that when they purposed to
come backe, there was nothing so much water left as the ships did
draw: wherefore being set on ground, they were soone fired, & the
aduersaries ouercome. By this policie also much medow ground was
woone, & made firme land, whereby the countrie about was not a little
inriched, as was also a part of Assyria by the like practise of Cyrus
with the Ganges, at such time as he came against Babylon, which riuer
before time was in maner equall with Euphrates. For he was so
offended, that one of his knights whom he loued déerlie, was drowned
and borne awaie with the water in his passage ouer the same, that he
sware a deepe oth yer long to make it so shallow that it should not
wet a woman to the knées. Which came to passe, for he caused all his
armie to dig 46 new draines fr[=o] the same, wherby the vow that he
had made was at the full performed. Senec. de Tra. li. 3. But to
conclude with the Lee that somtime ouerflowed all those medowes,
through which it passeth (as for a great waie not inferior to the
Thames) and I find that being past Westham, it is not long yer it fall
into that streame. One thing I read more of this riuer before the
conquest, that is, how Edward the first, & sonne of Alfred, in the
yeare of grace 912, builded Hartford towne: at which time also he had
Wittham a towne in Essex in hand, as his sister called Aelfled
repaired Oxford & London, and all this foure yeares before the
building of Maldon; of some called Hertford or Herudford betweene
three waters, that is, the Lée, the Benefuth, and Memmarran, or rather
Penmarran: but how these waters are distinguished in these daies, as
yet I cannot tell. It is possible, that the Bene may be the same which
commeth by Benington, and Benghoo: which if it be so, then must the
Memmarran be the same that descendeth from Whitwell, for not farre
from thence is Branfield, which might in time past right well be
called Marranfield, for of like inuersion of names I could shew manie
examples.
Being past the Lee (whose chanell is begun to be purged 1576, with
further hope to bring the same to the north side of London) we come
[Sidenote: Rodon or Rodunus.]
vnto the Rodon, vpon Essex side in like maner, and not verie farre
(for foure miles is the most) from the fall of the Lée. This water
riseth at little Canfield, from whence it goeth to great Canfield,
high Roding, Eithorpe Roding, Ledon Roding, White Roding, Beauchampe
Roding, Fifeld, Shelleie, high Ongar, and Cheping Ongar, where the
[Sidenote: Lauer.]
Lauer falleth into it, that ariseth betwixt Matching and high Lauer;
and taking another rill withall comming from aboue Northweld at
Cheping Ongar, they ioine (I saie) with the Rodon, after which
[Sidenote: Iuelus.]
confluence Leland coniectureth that the streame is called Iuell: for
my part, I wot not what to say of it. But héerof I am sure, that the
whole course being past Ongar, it goeth to Stansted riuers, Theidon
mount, Heibridge, Chigwell, Woodford bridge, Ilford bridge, Barking, &
so into the Thames.
[Sidenote: Darwent.]
The Darwent méeteth with our said Thames vpon Kents side, two miles
and more beneath Erith. It riseth at Tanridge, or there abouts, as I
haue beene informed by Christopher Saxtons card late made of the same,
and the like (I hope) he will doo in all the seuerall shires of
England at the infinit charges of sir Thomas Sackford knight, &
maister of the requests, whose zeale vnto his countrie héerin I cannot
but remember, & so much the rather, for that he meaneth to imitate
Ortelius, & somewhat beside this hath holpen me in the names of the
townes, by which these riuers for the Kentish part do run. Would to
God his plats were once finished for the rest! But to procéed. The
Darwent therefore, rising at Tanridge, goeth on by Titseie toward
Brasted, and receiuing on ech side of that towne (& seuerall bankes) a
riuer or rill, it goeth on to Nockhold, Shorham, Kinsford, Horton,
[Sidenote: Craie.]
Darnhith, Dartford or Derwentford, & there taking in the Craie on the
left hand that coms from Orpington by Marie Craie, Paules Craie, North
Craie, and Craiford, it is not long yer it fall into the Thames. But
after I had once passed the fall of the brooke, it is a world to sée
what plentie of Serephium groweth vpon the Kentish shore, in whose
description Fuichsius hath not a little halted; whilest he giueth
foorth the hearbe Argentaria for Serephium, betwéene which there is no
maner of likelihood. This neuerthelesse is notable in the said hearbe,
that being translated into the garden, it receiueth another forme
cleane different from the first, which it yéelded when it grew vpon
the shore, and therevnto appeareth of more fat & foggie substance.
Which maketh me to thinke that our physicians do take it for a
distinct kind of wormewood, whereof controuersie ariseth among them.
The next water that falleth into the Thames, is west of the Wauie
Iles, a rill of no great fame, neither long course, for rising about
Coringham, it runneth not manie miles east and by south, yer it fall
into the mouth of this riuer, which I doo now describe.
I would haue spoken of one créeke that commeth in at Cliffe, and
another that runneth downe from Haltsto by S. Maries: but sith I
vnderstand not with what backewaters they be serued, I let them passe
as not skilfull of their courses. And thus much of the riuers that
fall into the Thames, wherein I haue doone what I maie, but not what I
would for mine owne satisfaction, till I came from the head to
Lechlade, vnto which, as in lieu of a farewell, I will ascribe that
distichon which Apollonius Rhodius writeth of the Thermodon:
Huic non est aliud flumen par, nec tot in agros
Vllum dimittit riuos quot fundit vtrinque.
[Sidenote: Midwaie.]
Next vnto the Thames we haue the Midwaie water, whereof I find two
descriptions, the first beginneth thus. The Midwaie water is called in
Latine Medeuia (as some write) bicause the course therof is midwaie in
a manner betwéene London and Dorobernia, or (as we now call it)
Canturburie. In British it hight Dourbrée: and thereof Rochester was
sometime called Durobreuum. But in an old charter which I haue seene
(conteining a donation sometime made to the monasterie of saint
Andrews there by Ceadwalla) I find that the Saxons called this riuer
Wedring; and also a towne standing betweene Malling and east Farleie,
Wedrington; and finallie, a forrest also of the same denomination,
Wedrington, now Waterdon, wherby the originall name appeareth to be
fetched from this streame. It ariseth in Waterdon forrest east of
Whetlin or Wedring, and ioineth with another brooke that descendeth
from Ward forrest in Sussex: and after this confluence they go on
togither, as one by Ashhirst, where hauing receiued also the second
brooke, it hasteth to Pensherst, and there carrieth withall the Eden,
that commeth from Lingfield parke. After this it goeth to the
[Sidenote: Frethus.]
southeast part of Kent, and taketh with it the Frith or Firth, on the
northwest side, and an other little streame that commeth from the
hilles betwéene Peuenburie and Horsemon on the southeast. From thence
[Sidenote: Theise.]
also, and not farre from Yalling it receiueth the Theise (a pretie
[Sidenote: Grane aliàs Cranus.]
streame that ariseth about Theise Hirst) & afterward the Gran or
Crane, which hauing his head not farre from Cranbrooke, and méeting
with sundrie other riuelets by the waie, whereof one branch of Theise
is the last, for it parteth at the Twist, and including a pretie
Iland, doth ioine with the said Midwaie, a little aboue Yalding, and
then with the Lowse. Finallie at Maidstone it méeteth with another
brooke, whose name I know not, and then passeth by Allington, Duton,
Newhide, Halling, Cuckestane, Rochester, Chattham, Gillingham,
Vpchurch, Kingsferrie, and falleth into the maine sea betwéene Shepeie
and the Grane.
And thus much out of the first authour, who commendeth it also, for
that in time past it did yéeld such plentie of sturgeon, as beside the
kings portion, and a due vnto the archbishop of Canturburie out of the
same, the deane and chapter of Rochester had no small allowance also
of that commoditie: likewise for the shrimps that are taken therein,
which are no lesse estéemed of in their kind, than the westerne smelts
or flounders taken in the Thames, &c. The second authour describeth it
after this manner, and more copiouslie than the other.
The cheefe head of this streame riseth in Waterdon forrest, from
whence after it hath runne a pretie waie still within the same, east
of Whetlin, it méeteth with a brooke, whose head is in Ward forrest,
southwest of Greenested, which goeth to Hartfield, and so to Whetlin,
and yer long ioineth with the Midwaie. After this confluence it is not
long yer it take in another by west from Cowden ward, and the third
aboue Pensherst, growing from two heads, whereof one is in Lingfield
parke, the other west of Crawherst; and ioining aboue Edinbridge, it
doth fall into the midwaie beneath Heuer towne, and Chiddingston. From
Pensherst our maine streame hasteth to Ligh, Tunbridge, and Twidleie,
and beneath the towne, it crosseth a water from North, whereof one
head is at the Mote, another at Wroteham, the third at west Peckham,
& likewise another from southest, that runneth east of Capell. Next
after this it receiueth the These, whose forked head is at Theise
Hirst, which descending downe toward the north, taketh in not farre
from Scotnie a brooke out of the northside of Waterden forrest, whose
name I find not, except it be the Dour. After this confluence our
riuer goeth to Goldhirst, and comming to the Twist, it brancheth in
such wise, that one part of it runneth into Midwaie, another into the
[Sidenote: Garunus, Cranus.]
Garan, or rather Cranebrooke (if my coniecture be anie thing.) The
Garan (as Leland calleth it) or the Crane (as I doo take it) riseth
néere to Cranebrooke, and going by Siffinghirst, it receiueth yer long
one water that commeth by Fretingdon, and another that runneth from
great Chard by Smerdon, and Hedcorne, crossing two rilles by the waie
from by north, Hedcorne it selfe standing betwéene them both.
Finallie, the Garan or Crane meeting with Midwaie south of Yalling,
they on the one side, and the These on the other, leaue a pretie Iland
in the middest, of foure miles in length, and two in breadth, wherein
is some hillie soile, but neither towne nor village, so farre as I
remember.
From Yalling forward, the Midwaie goeth to west Farlegh, east Farlegh:
and yer it come at Maidstone, it interteineth a rill that riseth short
of Ienham, and goeth by Ledes and Otteringden, which is verie
beneficiall to clothiers in drie yéeres: for thither they conueie
their clothes to be thicked at the fulling milles, sometimes ten miles
for the same: there is also at Ledes great plentie of fulling earth,
which is a necessarie commoditie.
Being past Maidstone, it runneth by Allington, Snodland, Halling,
Cuckstane, and Rochester, where it passeth vnder a faire bridge of
stone, with a verie swift course, which bridge was begun 1388 by the
lord Iohn Cobham, the ladie Margaret his wife, and the valiant sir
Robert Knolles, who gaue the first onset vpon that péece of worke, and
therevnto builded a chappell of the Trinitie at the end therof, in
testimonie of his pietie. In processe of time also one Iohn Warner of
Rochester made the new coping thereof; and archbishop Warham of
Canturburie the iron barres: the bishops also of that see were not
slacke in their beneuolence and furtherances toward that worke,
especiallie Walter Merton founder of Merton college in Oxford, who by
misfortune perished by falling from the same, as he rode to surueie
the workemen. Being past Rochester, this noble riuer goeth to Chatham,
Gillingham, Vpchurch, and soone after branching, it imbraceth the
Greene at his fall, as his two heads doo Ashdon forrest, that lieth
betwéene them both.
OF SUCH STREAMES AS FALL INTO THE SEA, BETWEENE THE THAMES AND THE
MOUTH OF THE SAUERNE.