THE WESTERN QUARTER OF THE ISLAND, DISTINGUISHED
FOR ITS
SUBLIME SCENERY.
* * * * *
_The Road over the Downs from Brooke to Freshwater-gate._
We shall now leave the familiar scenes of cultivation and of
village life for a time, to enjoy the charms of unbounded prospect,
as we journey for four miles over a succession of pasturing downs,
where in many parts our road will be upon a natural carpet of the
finest turf.
Tasteless indeed must be those who can travel over these lofty and
_beautiful_ downs, without experiencing the most lively
gratification from the checquered and magnificent prospects which
invite their contemplation on every side: but to enjoy the pleasure
in perfection we must occasionally pause, to discriminate (by
reference to a friend or a map,) some of the more remarkable
features.--Looking to the westward, the high cliffs of Freshwater
stretch away in a noble promontory of three miles, forming the
foreground to the soft azure perspective of the coast of Dorset:
but to the north, so diversified is the extensive landscape with
towns and villages, hills, woods, forests, sea, and river, as to
mock our most ardent wishes to convey even a faint idea of the
grandeur of the composition.
Another source of no inconsiderable pleasure, when traversing these
beautiful downs,--soaring as it were in the higher regions--is
feeling that we actually breathe the purest atmosphere, so
exhilarating to the human frame. Nor is the reverse of this
desirable clearness of the weather without its share of
amusement--to witness the formation of clouds, as the vapors are
drawn up from the sea, and gradually condensed; rolling by, and
enveloping us in their misty volumes. It is true indeed, that these
exhibitions are not without danger to the traveller, lest he
unwarily approach too near the fatal precipice: but this
circumstance imposing the necessity of caution, excites an
_interest_--and interest is the very zest of adventure. [Footnote:
Near the edge of the cliffs about half a mile eastward of
Freshwater-gate, a small tablet has lately been erected, to
commemorate the unfortunate fate of a youth who slipped over and
perished on the rocks beneath.--Some years ago two successive
keepers of the Needles Light-house lost their lives in a similar
manner over the precipices on which that establishment is located.]
In short, whether for the splendor of the prospects, the refreshing
purity of the air, or the novelty of literally walking in the
clouds, we esteem the journey over these downs, as pleasurable as
any portion of the tour.
We shall now suppose the Visitor to be descending the last down, and in
a few minutes, walking on the beach--here to commence his examination of
...
THE FRESHWATER CLIFFS.
* * * * *
[Illustration: FRESHWATER BAY, I.W. _(The two remarkable isolated Rocks
and Entrance to the principal Cavern.)_]
"Suspended cliffs, with hideous sway,
Seem nodding o'er the caverns gray."
>>_Several romantic_ CAVERNS _near Freshwater-gate: the Needles_
LIGHT-HOUSE--_and the wonderfully_ COLORED SANDS _of Alum Bay, are
accessible without taking boat: the celebrated_ NEEDLE ROCKS _are seen
(though not to advantage,) from the down and beach: but the_ GRAND ARCH,
_the_ WEDGE-ROCK, _and several deep_ CAVERNS _and other curiosities of
Rock-scenery, can be viewed only by water, which is extremely desirable
in calm weather._
* * * * *
THE WHITE CLIFFS OF ALBION is so favorite a poetical designation of the
English coast, that it is with some degree of pride we hail our
"sea-girt isle" as surpassing in the magnificence and splendor of this
characteristic, every other part of the kingdom; for even Shakspeare's
cliff at Dover, immortalized as it is by the pen of the bard himself, is
little more than half the elevation of some of the chalk precipices of
the Isle of Wight,--which, at Freshwater, rise from the bosom of the
blue ocean with a perpendicular face of the most dazzling whiteness, the
sublime altitude of more than 600 feet!--being nearly one-half higher
than the pinnacles either of St. Paul's or Salisbury Cathedrals.
A stranger from the inland districts, who may never have seen a
precipice upon a grander scale than is presented by the sides of some
deep chalk-pit, would be at a loss to imagine wherein consisted the
BEAUTY and the INTEREST of such seemingly monotonous scenes; especially
when informed that they are indebted to no borrowed ornament from either
tree or shrub: and indeed it would prove equally difficult on our part
to furnish a comprehensive definition. One eminent writer
enthusiastically eulogises their appearance as "_singularly elegant_
when viewed at a proper distance; and with the Needle Rocks,
constituting a whole that is scarcely to be equalled:"--another declares
that "the most lofty and magnificent fabrics of Art, compared with
these stupendous works of Nature, sink in idea to Lilliputian
size:"--and a third, that "the towering precipices of Scratchell's Bay
are of the most elegant forms;" and "the pearly hue of the chalk is
beyond description by words, probably out of the power even of the
pencil."
* * * * *
As almost every visitor has a card of _all the local curiosities_
presented to him by some of the boatmen of the place, it would be
useless here to describe individually the several objects deserving
personal observation: we shall therefore confine our notice to a few of
the most prominent,--commencing at ...
FRESHWATER-GATE,
Remarkable for the brilliancy as well as beauty of the surrounding
promontories, of which an enchanting view is presented as we descend
from the downs. The outline of the precipices is here extremely bold,
forming several charming little coves or bays, and penetrated at the
base by numerous deep CAVERNS of the most romantic formation, that are
exceedingly interesting to visitors when explored. But what contributes
most to the picturesque character of the scenery is the presence of
several immense isolated rocks of grotesque shape, that rise from 30 to
60 feet above the sea. Two of these will particularly attract attention,
namely, the _Arched_, and the _Deer-pound_, [Footnote: This name was
given to the rock from the fact, it is said, of a deer having leaped on
it from the main land, when closely pursued by the hounds of the late
Lord Holmes, about 70 or 80 years ago: at which time the separation
could have been but a few yards! Whatever credit may be attached to this
anecdote by the reader, it at least serves to show the opinion which the
older inhabitants entertain of the progressive waste of land at this
part of the coast (the face of the cliffs being constantly exposed to
the weather and undermining action of the sea); and we remember it was
but a few years back when the top of this same rock was covered with a
considerable patch of green sod.] they are the remains of the original
cliff, but being composed of more stubborn and adhesive materials, have
long resisted the lashing waves and warring elements, while the parent
cliffs are constantly receding and forming a wider separation.
Here are two respectable Hotels: the _Albion_, close to the beach; and
_Plumbly's_, on the cliff: both of which offer to their guests the charm
of hearing ...
----"The restless waves that roar,
And fling their foam against the rocky shore."
The CAVERN in Freshwater Bay was formerly an object of no little
curiosity to those who had never seen any thing similar of a more
striking character; but the romantic effect, and consequently interest
of the scene has been greatly injured by the fall falling-in of the
arched roof. Now, however, visitors can easily investigate other caverns
of a similar nature at WATCOMBE BAY (to which a good road has been made
from Plumbly's Hotel,) where there is also a pyramidical rock, curiously
perforated at the base.
* * * * *
>> A very common way of seeing these precipices is to go by water
to Alum Bay, there land, walk up to the Light-house, and return by
the beacon: or take boat at Alum Bay, and sail round the Needles or
to Freshwater Bay, just as fancy may suggest. Some proceed on foot
from Freshwater-gate to the Needles Light-house (about three
miles), on the green sod, near the margin of the cliffs: other
parties again go round by the carriage-road the whole distance in
their vehicles. As, however, the grandest scenes can only be
visited by boat, we shall best perform our duty as Cicerone by
pointing them out as they appear in an aquatic excursion--that to
parties generally affords a degree of elevated pleasure to which
nothing else in the island can bear any comparison. Yet should the
weather be too rough for this to be enjoyed, the visit to
Freshwater may prove not the less interesting: since it is
impossible for any spectacle to exceed in sublimity that which is
displayed when a storm is raging around the majestic cliffs and
vast detached rocks that here encounter the winds and waves of the
British Channel:--
"Down bursts the gale--the surges sweep,
Like gathering hosts, against the steep,
Sheeting, with clouds of snowy spray,
Its lofty forehead, old and gray.
With sudden shriek and cowering wing,
To the wild cliff the sea-birds spring;
Careering o'er the darken'd heaven,
The clouds in warring heaps are driven;
And crested high with lawny foam,
Rushes the mighty billow home."
* * * * *
(Another Hotel is situated on the north side of the down, within sight
of the Needles, by whose name it is distinguished.)
[Illustration: WATCOMBE BAY _FRESHWATER ISLE OF WIGHT._]
From Watcombe Bay the precipices continue to increase in height till
they reach their greatest elevation (617 feet) at HIGH-DOWN, on which
the beacon is erected: they are however less perpendicular here than we
shall presently find them; and the more sloping portions are covered by
extensive patches of turf, samphire, &c., which vary the pure white of
the upright masses, though perhaps the lofty appearance of the whole is
thereby rather diminished, at least to a spectator at their base.
Amongst the most remarkable objects in this part of the range are
NEPTUNE'S CAVE, and LORD HOLMES'S PARLOUR:--the latter, a cavern of
considerable height and breadth, derives its name from the nobleman,
whose name it bears, having occasionally enjoyed a repast with his
friends in the briny coolness of its shade, at least so tradition tells
us: it can be easily entered by boat in calm weather: and when viewed
from beneath its rough vaulted roof, has certainly a very romantic
appearance.
A little further on is the WEDGE-ROCK, a most singular result of
accident; being a piece of rock about twelve feet long by six or eight
wide, exactly the shape of a wedge, resting between the main cliff and a
large mass of detached chalk, just as if fixed there by some gigantic
hand to effect the separation. It is often practicable to land here, and
it is worth while on the part of the young and active, were it only to
be satisfied how extremely deceptive is the appearance of the rocks and
broken green ledges, as to their size and extent of surface,--for few
would suppose (in passing by,) that the piece near the Wedge-rock
contains upwards of an acre of ground.--The pyramidical mass connected
with the Wedge is about fifty feet high, and a hundred long at the base.
Our friends will remember (as has been before said,) that we leave
the history of many curious rocks and caverns to be given by the
local watermen; for personal examination will invest a scene or
object with a degree of interest which cannot be felt by the
reader, who may have no expectation of ever seeing them.
Passing the OLD PEPPER-ROCK, a picturesque detached mass at the foot of
the chalk--we find ourselves under the noble promontory of MAIN-BENCH,
where the precipices again rise to upwards, of six hundred feet in
height: and being nearly perpendicular, present a truly sublime aspect,
viewed either from above or below: while the constant washing of the
waves at the lower part, by removing the looser particles of chalk,
gives it much the appearance of having been built with vast blocks of
masonry. As the water is deep even close to the cliff, and beautifully
transparent in calm weather, the reflection on its surface of the crags
above, and the sunken rocks and marine plants which appear beneath, must
add considerably to the interest of our aquatic excursion. Main-bench
terminates in a bold bluff or projecting angle called SUN CORNER;
rounding which, we enter ...
SCRATCHELL'S BAY, universally considered by visitors as the most
memorable spot on the island coast, alike for the grandeur, beauty, and
variety of its scenery. The dazzling whiteness of the chalk is here
relieved by thin curving beds of dark flint, which regularly divide it
into parallel strata of eight or ten feet thickness; the towering
precipices are of the most picturesque shapes; and the Needle Rocks form
an inimitable termination to the scene. Just within the bay is the
NEEDLES CAVE, the deepest along the whole range, as it penetrates the
chalk 300 feet: but the _unique_ feature which above all the rest claims
attention is the niche-like recess in the face of the cliff,
appropriately designated ...
THE GRAND ARCH;
It indicates little that is remarkable at a distance; but a truly
sublime effect is produced when the stranger is placed under its awful
roof with his back against the concave chalk: for he then sees above him
a magnificent Arch two hundred feet in height and overhanging the beach
at least one hundred and eighty!--yet so true, nay, even elegant is the
sweep, that it rather resembles the stupendous work of Art, than the
casual production of Nature. To form an idea of the sublimity of the
scene, the reader should task his memory with the dimensions of some of
the proudest architectural monuments in Great Britain: and the
comparison would immediately remove all doubt, that a sight of the Arch
itself would amply repay the trouble of a visit to Freshwater.
[Illustration: SCRATCHELL'S BAY, _And the NEEDLE ROCKS, as viewed from a
bold Bluff called Sun Corner, being the termination of the Freshwater
Cliffs.--Isle if Wight._]
Scratchell's Bay is about half-a-mile in breadth; being formed by Sun
Corner and the Grand Arch on the eastern side, and on the west by the
NEEDLE ROCKS,
Which stretch out into the sea a considerable distance: they are remains
of the original cliff, and forcibly illustrate the destructive power of
the ocean's stormy winds and waves, which in successive ages have
removed so vast a quantity of the adjacent chalk. Nor are their ravages
at all diminished at the present time: for it is only within the last
few years that the smallest rock has been completely insulated; while
another immense mass of the cliff is evidently separating by degrees,
and will probably become ere long entirely detached, forming a
magnificent pyramid two or three hundred feet high. It is impossible to
convey by verbal description a correct idea of these celebrated rocks:
for in passing round or through them, they assume a different shape
almost every dozen yards; sometimes appearing like a continuation of the
main promontory,--sometimes as one or more lofty acuminated
pyramids,--or again we see the different masses extending in nearly a
straight line, between which we catch a distant view of Christchurch and
other objects on the opposite coast. The name (inappropriate to their
present form,) was derived from a spiry rock, 120 feet high and very
slender, which fell in the year 1764, having been nearly worn through by
the incessant action of the tides: its base however is still visible at
low water.
The _Pomone_, a fifty-gun frigate, was wrecked on the most western
of these rocks, on June 11th, 1811, when returning home after an
absence of three years; but owing to the fineness of the weather,
the crew and passengers, including some Persian princes, reached
the shore in safety; and most of her guns and stores were removed
before she went to pieces. "The vessel," says Mr. Webster,
"afforded me a scale by which to judge of the size of the Needles,
and I was surprized to find that the hull of the frigate did not
reach one-fourth of their height." The entrance to the Solent
Channel "through the Needles" was always considered hazardous for
ships of great burthen, not only on account of those rocks, but
also of the immense banks of pebbles or "Shingles" that lie to the
westward: recent surveys have however ascertained that the channel
has sufficient width and depth for the safe passage of the largest
ships of war.
ALUM BAY.
The brilliant and novel display of rock scenery which this spot affords,
and its being easily accessible either by water or land (for a road
leads to it from the north side of the down), cause it to be universally
visited by strangers who extend their tour to this quarter of the
island. It is bounded on the south by the Needles and the snowy
precipices of which they once formed part: but its greatest celebrity is
owing to the wonderful diversity and brightness in the cliffs on the
opposite side, which are composed of sand, clay, and ochreous earths,
disposed in alternate _vertical_ strata: and as the torrents of winter
carry away vast masses of the soil, forming numerous deep ravines--an
endless variety of the most beautiful peaks and romantic forms are thus
produced. The colored strata vary in thickness from a sheet of paper to
several yards; are now purely white, black, red, or yellow; then brown,
blueish, or dull green,--alternating in a surprizing manner with each
other, or blending into every hue: and many of the tints so vivid, yet
so delicate, that they are justly compared to the variegations of a
tulip, or to the shades of silk. "Alum Bay," says an eminent geologist,
"is so extraordinary a place, that I am unable to explain in adequate
terms, the surprize I felt on first seeing it. The scenery is indeed of
a species unique in this country: and nothing that I had previously seen
bore the least resemblance to it." This spot owes its name to the fact
of alum having been occasionally found on its shores.
* * * * *
And now, having pointed out the most remarkable features in the cliffs,
it only remains to notice THE LIGHT-HOUSE, which is a gratifying object
of curiosity to persons unacquainted with the nature of such an
establishment, it stands near the extremity of the down, and commands a
prospect of great extent and beauty, particularly of the unrivaled
scenery of Alum Bay. The Needles are seen to most advantage from the
water: but when this has not been enjoyed, the party should cautiously
approach within a few yards of the precipice, "and to those whose nerves
are proof against the horrors of the position, the new into the bays
beneath, and of the cliffs and Needle Rocks, is extremely sublime. The
agitation and sound of the waves below are hardly perceived, and it is
scarcely possible to imagine that the quiet expanse which now seems
stretched in boundless repose under the eye, is the same turbulent
element which had but lately been seen bursting in clouds of foam, and
thundering on its rocky shore.--In hard blowing weather, the fury of the
wind on this promontory is scarcely credible. Very large flints and
fragments of chalk are blown from the cliffs, so as to endanger the
windows of the light-house; and for many days in succession, it is
scarcely possible to open the door."
* * * * *
The precipices of Freshwater, like those at Bembridge, are
frequented at periodical seasons by prodigious flights of sea-fowl
of various kinds. The birds are taken by the country-people at the
hazard of their lives; they descend by means of a stout rope which
turns round a crow-bar firmly fixed in the ground above; one end of
the rope being fastened about their body, and the other end held in
their hands, by which they lower and raise themselves from ledge to
ledge of the horrid precipice. The aquatic fowl furnish most
amusing sport to numberless shooting-parties during the season. The
principal species are ... puffins, gulls, cormorants, Cornish
choughs, the eider duck, auks, divers, guillemots, razor-bills,
widgeons, willocks, daws, starlings, and pigeons. Their
breeding-season is in the months of May, June, and July, and
towards the end of August the greater part of them migrate with
their new generations. Their flesh is too rank and fishy to be
eaten, and is used only for baiting crab and lobster pots; the
feathers are valuable, and the eggs are bought chiefly by visitors
for curiosity.
* * * * *
THE ROADS TO YARMOUTH, NEWPORT, &c.
>> _Having visited the western extremity of the Island, we
return--either by_ CALBOURNE _to Newport, which is the nearest; or round
by_ YARMOUTH, _this being perhaps the less monotonous road of the two._
* * * * *
The tourist, on leaving the magnificent scenes of the western coast, can
hardly expect to see many spots in the remainder of his journey, capable
of engaging his attention. He may still however enjoy some very charming
prospects, particularly in the neighbourhood of Yarmouth, whither we
shall now suppose him to shape his course.
We shall pass two seats: FARRINGFORD, on the north side of the down,
surrounded by flourishing plantations; and about a mile and a half
further, the fine old manor-house of AFTON.
THE VILLAGE OF FRESHWATER is prettily interspersed with wood; but except
the church (whose front is more picturesque than most in the island),
has nothing to notice;--unless it should fortunately happen to be
high-tide at the time of our passing, and then the RIVER YAR will have a
lovely effect--winding between gently rising banks feathered with grove
and copse, shrouding here a mansion, and there a cottage; while
pleasure-boats and an unusual number of swans are seen gliding and
sporting on its silver bosom.
* * * * *
Passing over a neat bridge, and through the fertile parish of THORLEY,
whose church is the plainest in the island, we reach
YARMOUTH,
Standing opposite Lymington, and once a place of considerable
importance, having obtained a charter of franchises in the reign of
Henry II: it is very clean and open,--and being situated in the
neighbourhood of the most interesting coast scenery, is upon the whole
an agreeable place, particularly for gentlemen partial to marine
pleasures. Its chief support is derived from the shipping that anchor in
its excellent roadsted, and the passengers to and from Lymington; there
are three inns--the principal one (the George,) is a large ancient
building, formerly the Governor's house, where King Charles II was
entertained by Sir Rt. Holmes on his paying the island a visit in
1667.--The Church has recently received the ornament of a new tower, and
the interior boasts a good statue of the above-named Sir Robert. The
Castle (as it is called), is a heavy, plain mass of building,
constructed in the reign of Henry VIII to protect this entrance to the
Solent Channel.
The village of NORTON is on the opposite side of the river, where there
are several very respectable villas,--so sheltered by groves and
shrubberies, that the whole neighbourhood presents the delightful
appearance of a bold foreland completely shrouded in wood, even to the
water's edge.
Opposite _Carey's Sconce_, half a mile west of Norton, is HURST
CASTLE, built at the extremity of a long strip of shingly land
stretching out from the Hampshire coast, which here contracts the
width of the Solent Channel to less than a mile. Close by are two
Light-houses, erected for the purpose of assisting ships to clear
the passage through the Needles.
Four miles from Yarmouth we pass through SHALFLEET, a clean and populous
village: the Church is next the road, of a heavy construction,--yet
affording a good subject for a sketch. Northward is NEWTOWN, a very
ancient borough; which was a populous place in the time of Richard II
(when it was burned by the French, but soon afterwards rebuilt), and
though now reduced to a few humble cottages, the course of its streets
may yet be traced. It has a new church, of a neat design; and is noted
for its extensive salterns, and convenient haven.--Previously to the
passing of the Reform Bill in 1832, Yarmouth and Newtown each returned
two members to parliament.
* * * * *
_The Road by Calbourne and Carisbrooke._
The direct road from Freshwater-gate to Newport runs for the first three
or four miles at the northern foot of the range of downs described at p.
89; presenting no object worthy of separate remark till we reach
CALBOURNE, a considerable village, having a decent small inn. The pretty
situation of its neat little Church and Parsonage,--the handsome mansion
and luxuriant plantations of a first-rate seat called WESTOVER, close
by,--with a small stream running through the grounds and in front of the
neighbouring cottages,--altogether produce a very pleasing scene ...
"Where sweet simplicity resides, which Grace
And Beauty call their own."
Two miles further we pass SWAINSTON, another principal seat: the mansion
lies below the road, surrounded by trees; a copious stream, well stored
with fish, runs through the gardens and plantations, which are extensive
and judiciously laid-out; and the prospect-temple which crowns the hill
on the right is a very conspicuous object. From hence the road is on
the slope of a series of hills, often picturesquely shrouded in groves
and hanging woods; while in the more open parts some extensive views are
presented of the north side of the island, the sea, and the opposite
coast of Hampshire; but the prospect which is opened as we descend into
Carisbrooke is particularly grand: the village makes an admirable
foreground, backed by lofty hills,--on the left we see the town of
Newport and its adjoining hamlets, with E. Cowes Park, &c. in the
distance,--and on the right,
"High o'er the pines, that with their dark'ning shade
Surround yon craggy bank, THE CASTLE rears
Its crumbling turrets: still its towering head
A warlike mien, a sullen grandeur wears!"
* * * * *
LANDMARKS AND OTHER CONSPICUOUS OBJECTS
_Erected on the Hills._
* * * * *
The fact of so many of the hills and downs being crowned with some
far-seen object, such as a light-house, obelisk, or telegraph, must be a
source of considerable interest to a traveller in the Isle of Wight, not
only by their often giving an identity and attraction to many of those
broad features of scenery which would otherwise be comparatively tame
and monotonous, but also by enabling him to determine the bearings and
situation of places in their vicinity.
We shall here name a few of the most conspicuous of these objects,
nearly in the order pursued in the preceding description of the
Tour of the Island:--most of them being visible from the
neighbourhood of Newport, which, as we have before stated, occupies
a central position. We shall therefore commence with Carisbrooke
Castle.
At West Cowes--the Church-tower, and Windmills. At East
Cowes--Towers of Osborne, Norris, and East Cowes Castle. At
Wootton--the Prospect-tower of Fernhill. Southward of Ryde--a large
Windmill. On Ashey Down--the Sea-mark. At Bembridge--Mill on the
Down. Godshill--the Church: behind which, on Appuldurcombe Down, is
an Obelisk and private Signal-station. On Shanklin Down--Cooke's
Castle. St. Catharine's Down--ancient Tower, and old Light-house;
on the sea-cliffs, the new Light-house; on the northern extremity
of the down, the Alexandrian Pillar. Freshwater Downs--Light-house,
and Beacon.
* * * * *
TOURS OF THE ISLAND.
* * * * *
Some years ago it was customary for the then limited number of
Post-masters to adopt a regular three-days' Tour of the island,
dividing it into the North-eastern, the Southern, and the
North-western; differing but very little except as to the _order_
of the days' excursion. Not so now--for a hundred plans would
hardly describe all "the Tours" recommended by the different
inn-keepers and numerous other letters-out of vehicles for
pleasure-parties; to say nothing of the wide difference between the
visitors themselves, as regards the _Time_ allowed.--We have
anticipated, we hope, every question on the subject, by the
arrangement in the preceding pages: but still it may be
satisfactory to some of our readers, to see the most generally
adopted Routes. The reader will perceive that _Appuldurcombe_ is
frequently left as the object of a separate day's trip.
* * * * *
CONTINUED TOUR FROM RYDE.
FIRST DAY
MILES
St. John's: St. Clare, &c., 1
The Priory, 2
St. Helen's Green, 1
Bembridge (crossing ferry), 1
Yaverland, 3-1/2
Sandown Fort and Village, 1-1/2
Shanklin Chine and Village, 3
Luccombe Chine, 1-1/2
East End, 0-1/2
Bonchurch--Ventnor, 2
Steephill Castle, 1
St. Lawrence, 1
Niton, 2-1/2
Sleep here, or at Blackgang.------
23-1/2
SECOND DAY
St. Catharine's Light-house, 0-1/2
Sandrock Spring, 0-1/2
Blackgang Chine, 0-1/2
Chale, 0-1/2
Kingston, 2-1/2
Shorwell and Northcourt, 2
Brixton, 2
Mottistone, 2
Brooke, 1
Freshwater-gate, 4
Needles Light-house, 3-1/2
Alum Bay, 1
Sleep at Fr. gate or A. Bay.------
20
THIRD DAY
Yarmouth, 6
Calbourne and Westover, 6
Swainston, 1-1/2
Carisbrooke Village, 3
Newport, 1
Parkhurst Prison, 1
West Cowes, 4
East Cowes (crossing ferry), 0-1/2
Whippingham Church, 2
Wootton-bridge, 3
Quarr Abbey, 1
Ryde, 2-1/2
------
31-1/2
_Tour from Ryde, in which Parties sleep but one Night in the Country._
FIRST DAY: St. Helen's 4 miles, Bembridge 1, Yaverland and Sandown 5,
Shanklin 3, Luccombe and East End 2, Bonchurch and Ventnor 2, Wroxall
2, Newchurch 4, Ryde 6--total 29 miles, or by Brading 26.
SECOND DAY: Wootton 3-1/2, Arreton 4, Godshill and Appuldurcombe 5,
Steephill 3, St. Lawrence 1, Niton 2-1/2, Arreton 7, Wootton 4, Ryde
3-1/2--total 33-1/2 miles.
THIRD DAY: Through Wootton to Newport 7, Carisbrooke 1, Shorwell 4,
Brixton 2, Mottistone 2, Brooke 1, Freshwater-gate 4, Needles-point
3-1/2, Alum Bay 1,--total 25-1/2 miles. Sleep at Fr. gate or Alum
Bay.--FOURTH DAY: Yarmouth 6, Shalfleet 4, Barracks, &c. 5-1/2, West
Cowes, 4, East Cowes 0-1/2, Whippingham 2, Wootton 3, Ryde 3-1/2--total
28-1/2 miles.
* * * * *
GENERAL TOUR FROM COWES.
FIRST DAY.
House of Industry, &c. 4
Newport, 1
Carisbrooke Castle, 1
Swainston, on the right, 3
Calbourne and Westover, 1-1/2
Yarmouth, 6
Alum Bay, 6
The Needles Light-house, 1
Freshwater-gate, 3-1/2
Sleep here, or at Alum Bay.-----
28
SECOND DAY.
Brooke--Mottistone, 5
Brixton 2
Shorwell and Northcourt, 2
Chale and Blackgang Chine, 5
Sandrock Spring, 0-1/2
St. Catharine's Light-house, 0-1/2
Niton Village, 0-1/2
St. Lawrence Church, &c. 2-1/2
Steephill Castle, 1
Ventnor, and Bonchurch, 2
East End, 1
Luccombe Chine, 0-1/2
Shanklin Chine and Village, 1-1/2
Sleep here, or at Ventnor.------
24
THIRD DAY.
Sandown Fort and Village, 3
Yaverland Church, &c. 1-1/2
Bembridge.--Cross ferry, 3-1/2
St. Helen's Green, 1
The Priory, on the right, 1
St. Clare--St. John's, 2
Ryde 1
Wootton-bridge--Fernhill, 3-1/2
Whippingham Church, 3
East Cowes, 2
------
21-1/2
* * * * *
TOURS FROM NEWPORT.
NORTH-EASTERN TOUR.
Fernhill--Wootton-bridge, 3-1/2
Quarr Abbey, 1-1/2
Ryde, 2
St. John's--St. Clare, 1
The Priory, 2
St. Helen's Green, 1
Cross ferry to Bembridge, 1
Yaverland Church, &c. 3-1/2
Sandown Fort and Village, 1-1/2
Brading Down, 3
Ashey Sea-mark, 2
Down-end, 2
Newport, 3
------
27
SOUTHERN TOUR.
Arreton Church, 4
Shanklin, 6
Luccombe--East End, 2
Bonchurch and Ventnor, 2
Steephill Castle, 1
St. Lawrence, 1
Niton, 2-1/2
St. Catharine's Light-house, 0-1/2
Sandrock Spring, 0-1/2
Blackgang Chine 0-1/2
Chale, 1
Gatcombe, 4-1/2
Newport, 4
(Or return by Rookley.) ------
29
WESTERN TOUR.
Carisbrooke, 1
Shorwell and Northcourt, 4
Brixton, 2
Mottistone, 2
Brooke, 1
Freshwater-gate, 4
Needles Light-house, 3-1/2
Alum Bay, 1
Yarmouth, 6
Calbourne and Westover, 6
Swainston, 1-1/2
Carisbrooke Village, 3
Newport, 1
(Or return by Shalfleet.) ------
36
* * * * *
A VOYAGE ROUND THE ISLAND
If the weather be favorable, will prove very interesting, and indeed be
necessary to enable us to form a just estimate of the local attractions,
since many of the scenes we have described are seen to most advantage
from the water. Steamers perform the trip two or three times a-week
during the season (usually in about eight hours): and sailing-craft from
Ryde and Cowes are often engaged by parties for the same purpose.
If we sail to the eastward on leaving Cowes Harbour, the first objects
demanding our attention are Norris Castle and the royal Palace of
Osborne, with their extensive lawns sweeping to the shore, shaded by
numerous groups of noble trees. After passing the Creeks of King's Quay
and Wootton, we have a partial sight of Binstead: and a most
comprehensive view of the fashionable town of Ryde, just as we leave the
Pier. Hence to St. Helen's the coast forms several beautiful bays, lined
with gentlemen's seats and villas, hamlets, and luxuriant woods.
Brading Haven, with the adjacent villages of Bembridge, St. Helen's, and
Brading,--the whole encompassed by a semi-circular range of lofty
hills--forms a very agreeable picture, especially at the time of high
water. Our readers will have no difficulty in recognising the landmark
of St. Helen's tower on the beach, and that on Ashey Down, about four
miles inland.
Two miles further are the lofty Culver Cliffs, forming the north side of
Sandown Bay, on whose shores stand the village and fort of the same
name. At the southern extremity of this extensive bay rise the dark
precipices of Dunnose, penetrated by the Chines of Shanklin and
Luccombe. Near the latter commences the celebrated tract called the
Undercliff, whose varied and unique charms are nowhere so advantageously
seen as from the water, "whence it rises like a series of gigantic steps
that seem to lead from the lofty cliffs on the shore, to the summit of
the grand perpendicular wall" that bounds it on the land-side.--East
End, the lovely village of Bonchurch, the fast-increasing town of
Ventnor, and the stately castle of Steephill, are all fully presented to
our view: and less distinctly through the groves in which they are for
the most part embosomed, the villas of St. Lawrence, Old Park, Mirables,
&c. Beyond the pretty little cove of Puckaster we see part of Niton
village; and close to the shore, the gigantic tower of the Light-house.
A mile further is the Sandrock Spring, in the midst of a wild tract,
that terminates in the gloomy ravine called Blackgang Chine, backed by
the tower-crowned eminence of St. Catharine's Hill.
Hence to Compton Bay the coast is dreary and comparatively monotonous;
but we have a tolerable view of some of the smaller chines, and also of
the fine range of downs that stretch from the centre of the island to
its western extremity. Almost the whole extent of Freshwater Cliffs
meets the eye at once: but there is no great difficulty in recognizing
the most noted rocks, caves, &c. as we pass along. The various forms
which are exhibited by those huge masses of chalk the Needles, as we
approach and leave them, in connection with the beautiful precipices of
Scratchell's Bay, form perhaps the most interesting circumstance of our
voyage: the light-house seems placed on the very brink of the precipice:
and the brilliant scenery of Alum Bay will appear to advantage,
especially if it be a sunny afternoon.
Beyond this the coast consists of steep broken slopes and earthy cliffs,
some of them of considerable altitude, but presents no object of
particular interest till we near the river Yar, with its adjacent town
and villas: Newtown Creek opens about three miles further on. West
Cowes, as we approach it from Thorness Bay, has a beautiful aspect,
numerous genteel villas and first-rate lodging-houses covering the shore
for nearly a mile: and the ever-amusing scene of Cowes harbour will form
a delightful termination to our voyage.
* * * * *
The Passage and Conveyance.
* * * * *
JUNE 1, 1849.
* * * * *
BY STEAM-PACKETS.
>>_Strangers are particularly requested to attend to the following
recommendation._--We have always made it a point to delay the
publication of our Guides to as late a period as we well could
(often to a degree of inconvenience), in order that our readers may
be furnished with an accurate statement of the precise time of the
several passage-vessels starting to or from the island: but this,
instead of an advantage, often proved a disappointment: for perhaps
a change of hours unexpectedly took place within a week or
fortnight afterwards, in consequence of some new regulation in the
time of the railways, or from some motive on the part of one or
other of the steam-packet companies. We therefore particularly
advise strangers to make inquiry at the local inns, on board the
packets, or at the railway or booking offices, in all cases where
it is of important consequence to know exactly to a minute.
* * * * *
_Between Southampton, Cowes, Ryde, & Portsmouth._
FROM MORN. AFT.
South'n to Cowes at. 3-1/2 8.40 10.40--1-3/4 4.40 7
Ryde and Portsmo. 8.40 10.40--1-3/4 4.40
Portsmouth to Cowes 8.40 10--2 4-1/2 6-1/2
Southampton 8.40 10--2 4-1/2
Ryde to Cowes 9-1/4 10-1/2--2-1/2 5 7
Southampton 9-1/4 10-1/2--2-1/2 5
Cowes to Ryde 10 12--3-1/2 6-1/4
Portsmouth 6-3/4 10 12--3-1/2 6.15
South'n. 8-3/4 10.40 12--3-3/4 6-1/4 8-3/4
South'n to East Cowes 3-1/2 10.40--1-3/4 4.40
E. Cowes to South'ton. 8.35 11.50--3.35 6
On Sundays the passages are less frequent.
* * * * *
_Portsmouth, Portsea, Gosport, and Ryde._
From Gosport at 8.10, 9.45, 10.50, 11.50, 1-1/2, 2-1/2, 5-1/4, 6.35.
From Portsea at 8.15, 9.50, 10.55 11.55, 1.35, 2.35, 5.25, 6.40. From
Portsmouth each passage five minutes later.
From Ryde at 7.20, 9, 11, 12, 1-1/4, 2-1/2, 4-1/4, & 6.
ON SUNDAYS:
From Portsmouth at 8, 3, and 5.
From Ryde at 9, 4, and 6.
>>_In the height of the season, steamers leave Southampton for Cowes on
the arrival of every Railway train,--and Cowes for Southampton in time
to meet every Train: and between Portsmouth and Ryde run about every
hour from 7 to 7._
* * * * *
From LYMINGTON--the _Glasgow_ runs to Yarmouth three or four times
a-day: the _Solent_ every morning to Cowes, whence she proceeds on
alternate days to Southampton and Portsmouth--and by suiting her
time to that of the other steamers, maintains a daily communication
between all these places.
The steamers from Portsmouth, Southampton, and Lymington, tow
horse-boats across.
During summer, Steamers frequently make trips round the island, usually
in about seven hours.
* * * * *
_Regular Sailing Passage-boats._
FROM COWES to NEWPORT, daily: the hours depending upon the state of the
tide.
From WOOTTON to PORTSMOUTH at 9 and 4 (3 or earlier in winter), daily:
and from Portsmouth at 9 and 2-1/2.
From BEMBRIDGE to Portsmouth and back, every other day, or oftener, in
summer.
To POOLE the sailing-hoys run twice a-week, calling off Cowes and
Yarmouth.
* * * * *
Land-Conveyances.
The STAGE-COACHES.--The following are the summer arrangements for
1849:--
From Newport to Ryde, at 8, 12-1/2, 2-3/4, and 5-1/4.
From Ryde at 9-1/4, 11, 3-1/2, and 6-1/2.
From Newport to West Cowes at 8, 9-1/2, 2-1/2, and 5-1/2.
Cowes to Newport at 10, 12, 3-1/2, and 6-1/2.
West Cowes to Ventnor (thro' Newport, Blackgang, and Niton,) at 10,
returning at 3.
Ventnor to East Cowes (through Godshill and Newport,) at 8-1/2,
returning at 3.
From Ryde to Ventnor at 9-1/2, 11, and 3.
Ventnor to Ryde at 8-1/2, 1-3/4, and 3. Passing through Brading,
Sandown, and Shanklin.
Most of the coaches omit travelling on Sundays.
It will be seen that by these conveyances, visitors arriving at Cowes or
Ryde in the morning may make the tour of one-half the island the same
day. If from Ryde in the morning, they would be returned to Cowes in
time for the last packet across, and the same from the latter to the
former place.
But here we must caution our friends, as we did respecting the
steam-packets, that frequent alterations take place in the hours of
starting, perhaps in consequence of some change made by the
vessels, but as often induced by the caprice of the rival
speculators; some of them continuing throughout the year, and
others running only during the summer.
The CARRIERS.--These of late have so increased, that there is scarcely a
village without one or more to Newport or Ryde,--between the latter
places there are three every day; between Cowes, Newport, and Ventnor,
several carts and vans daily; and from the less populous parishes, one
every other day.
* * * * *
List of the Principal Inns.
NEWPORT,--the Bugle--Mew.
Star--Bryant.
Wheat-sheaf, Corn-market--J. Read.
Green Dragon, Pyle-street--R. Read.
Swan, High-street--Wardle.
RYDE,--Pier Hotel--Rendall.
Hotel, Union-street--Yelf.
Kent, ditto--Pegg.
Crown, near the theatre--Woodrow.
Hotel, near the pier--Beazley.
Star, upper part of the town--Locke.
Hotel & Boarding-house--Weeks.
SPRING-VALE Tavern--Heath.
WEST COWES,--Fountain, on the quay--Webb.
Vine, adjoining; ditto--Roper.
Marine Hotel, Parade--Helmore.
Globe, ditto--Aris.
EAST COWES,--Medina Hotel--Drew.
Prince of Wales, nr. toll-gate--Tucker
YARMOUTH,--George--Bright.
Bugle--Butler.
FRESHWATER,--Hotel. Fr. gate--Plumbly.
Albion Hotel, ditto--Groves.
Needles Hotel, Alum Bay--Groves.
BLACKGANG CHINE Hotel--Brooks.
NITON,--Royal Sandrock Hotel--Kent.
Boarding-house, on the shore--Bailey.
White Lion, Niton village--Bright.
Buddle Inn--
VENTNOR,--Hotel--Riles.
Marine Hotel--Bush.
Crab and Lobster--Cass.
Commercial Inn--Cummins.
BONCHURCH,--Hotel--Ribbands.
SHANKLIN,--Williams's Hotel--Hale.
Hotel--Daish.
SANDOWN,--King's-head--Thomas.
BEMBRIDGE, Hotel, on the beach--Fletcher.
BRADING,--Wheat-sheaf--Lale.
CALBOURNE, Sun--Woodford.
GODSHILL,--Griffin--Smith.
BRIXTON,--New Inn--Sanders.
LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL
SEATS & COUNTRY-VILLAS
WITH THE NAMES OF
Their Proprietors or Occupiers.
* * * * *
>>_In those instances where no Occupiers' Names appear, such Residences
are generally to be sold or let._
* * * * *
OSBORNE, Her Most Gracious Majesty the Queen
APPULDURCOMBE, Earl Yarborough.
Afton Manor-house, B. Cotton, esq.
Appley, near Ryde, J. Hyde, esq.
Beauchamp, Undercliff, Sir W. Gordon, bt.
Bellecroft, near Newport, J. Cooke, esq.
Bembridge Parsonage, Rev. F.G. Middleton.
Billingham, near Kingston W. Stancombe, esq.
Binstead Cottage, Lord Downes.
--------Parsonage, Rev. Philip Hewitt.
Blackwater Cottage, S. of Newport, J. Rutherford, esq.
Brixton Parsonage, Rev. E. McAll.
Brook Manor-house, James How, esq.
Brookfield Cottage, Binstead, Rev. Aug. Hewitt.
Calbourne Parsonage, Rev. R. Sumner.
Calbourne Lodge, J. Fowler, esq.
Castlehurst, nr. Carisbrooke, H. Pinnock, esq.
Chale Parsonage, Rev. A. Gother.
Costorphine-hill, Ryde, J.P. Lind, esq.
EAST COWES CASTLE, ----
East Dene, Bonchurch, Capt. Swinburne.
Egypt House, nr. W. Cowes, Sir T. Tancred, bt.
Elm Cottage, near E. Cowes, ----
FAIRLEE, N.E. of Newport, Rd. Oglander, esq.
Fairlee Cottage, ditto, ----
Fairy-hill, Nettlestone, W.A. Glynn, esq.
Farringford-hill, Freshwater, Rev. G. Seymour.
FERNHILL, Wootton, Samuel Sanders, esq.
GATCOMBE PARK, Captain Berners.
Gatcombe Rectory, Rev. W. Thompson, D.D.
Hampstead, near Shalfleet, Mrs. Nash.
Haylands, south of Ryde, Captain Locke.
Hill-grove, Bembridge, Hon. A.H. Moreton.
Holmwood, Ryde, T.B. Maynard, esq.
Kite-hill, Wootton, Sir H. Brook, bt.
Lowcliff Lodge, Blackgang, ----
Mill-hill, West Cowes, ----
Medina Hermitage, nr. Niton, W.H. Dawes, esq.
Mirables, Undercliff, ditto, Mrs. Arnold.
Mount Cleeves House, ditto, the Misses Simes.
Moor House, near W. Cowes, ----
Mottistone House, R. Jessett, esq.
New Close, s.w. of Newport, T. Cooke, esq.
Ningwood House, Rev. ---- Cottell.
Niton Parsonage, Rev. R. Dixon.
NORRIS, near E. Cowes, R. Bell, esq.
NORTHCOURT, Shorwell, H.P. Gordon, esq.
Shide Cottage, S. of Newport, Col. Napier.
NORTHWOOD PARK, G.H. Ward, esq.
Norton Lodge, Freshwater, Sir G. Hamond, bt.
NUNWELL, near Brading, Sir W. Oglander, bt.
Oakhill, near Ryde, T.M. Leacock, esq.
Old Park, Undercliff, J. Walkinshaw, esq.
Orchard, ditto, near Niton, Sir W. Gordon, bt.
Padmore, Whippingham, Rev. James Jolliffe.
Pidford, near Rookley, ----------
Pitt-place, Mottistone, ----------
PRIORY, N. of St. Helen's, H. Smith, esq.
Puckaster Cottage, Undercliff, Mrs. Vine.
Puckpool, east of Ryde, Lewis Wyatt, esq.
Ryde House, Miss Player.
Rookley Cottage, John Woodward, esq.
Rosiere, Niton, ---------
Sealand Cottage, Blackgang, R. Pinnock, esq.
St. Clare, east of Ryde, Col. Vernon Harcourt.
ST. JOHN'S, ditto, A.F. Hamilton, esq.
St. Lawrence Villa, Earl Yarborough.
------- --- Cottage, Hon. Capt. D. Pelham.
St. Thomas' Villa, E. Cowes, Miss Barrington.
Sea-grove, Nettlestone, W. Gardiner esq.
Sea-field, ditto, Henry Beach, esq.
Spring-field, ditto, John Callender, esq.
Steane Villa, Bembridge, ---------
Shanklin Parsonage, Archdeacon Hill.
Shorwell Parsonage, Rev. E. Robertson.
Slatwoods, near East Cowes, Miss Shedden.
Southlands House, Blackgang, ------
Spring-hill, ditto, George Shedden, esq.
Standen, south of Newport, General Evelegh.
STEEPHILL CASTLE, J. Hambrough, esq.
Stickworth, south of Arreton, Mrs. Bell.
Stonepits' Cottage, Binstead, Capt. Brigstocke.
SWAINSTON, nr. Calbourne, Sir Rd. Simeon, bt.
The Battery, Sandown, T. Woodham, esq.
The Farm, nr. Newport, B. Mew, esq.
The Marina, Norton, Capt. Crozier.
Tower Cottage, Shanklin, -- Cameron, esq.
Uplands, east of Ryde, C. Payne, esq.
Upton House, south of Ryde, Admiral Hoare.
Wacklands, s. of Newchurch, William Thatcher, esq.
WESTOVER, Calbourne, Hon. A'Court Holmes.
Westhill, Cowes, the Misses Ward.
---- Norton, R.B. Crozier, esq.
Westcliff, Niton, Captain Ker.
Westridge, east of Ryde, Mrs. Young.
Westbrook, ditto, J. Le Marchant, esq.
Whitcomb, near Gatcombe, Mrs. Hughes.
Woodlands, east of Ryde, J. Percival, esq.
Woodvale, near Gurnard, Captain Ffarington.
Wootton Parsonage. Rev. R.W. White.
Yafford, near Shorwell, James Jolliffe, esq.
Yaverland Parsonage, Rev. R. Sherson.
[Illustration: Map of the Isle of Wight]