THE ROMANTIC SCENERY
OF THE ISLAND,
EXHIBITED ALONG THE SOUTH-EASTERN COAST, FROM
SHANKLIN TO BLACKGANG CHINE.
* * * * *
SHANKLIN.
>> THE CHINE, _a beautiful woody ravine in the sea-cliffs, is the
great object of attraction; inquire the road to the beach, and you
will be conducted through the scene back to the village;--of the
latter, a, pretty good idea may be formed in passing through it to
Bonchurch,_
* * * * *
Here we enter upon the romantic scenery of the island. The village is
most delightfully rural, and though it has several roomy lodging-houses,
and two large hotels, still, from the bold variety of the ground, and
the many shrubberies and clumps of fine elm and ash trees with which it
is adorned, the dwellings are so hid from one another, that in almost
every point of view it has the pleasing appearance of being but a small
quiet hamlet. Except in the most exposed parts, vegetation flourishes
with uncommon luxuriance,--even choice exotics: we would point to the
Parsonage as an instance, enveloped in myrtles that stand the rigors of
winter without protection: indeed it may well be said, that almost every
cottage in this beautiful spot is surrounded ...
"With fragrant turf, and flowers as wild and fair,
As ever dressed a bank, or scented summer air."
But the crowning feature from which it derives its celebrity as one of
the chief curiosities of the island, is THE CHINE--a term that certainly
does not convey to a stranger any idea of the scene: it is a provincial
expression for a ravine or cleft in the cliffs of the shore, and of
which there are several along the coast, possessing a beauty or
sublimity that renders them highly interesting.
Having reached the beach, the visitor should take a short walk under the
towering sandrock precipices which range to the right and left for
several miles, before he enters the Chine. Nowhere on the coast of the
island is there a more charming stretch of shore,--for the sand is of a
cool dark color, _firm enough for wheel-carriages and horses to be used
by invalids_, and therefore proves equally alluring to the aged as to
the young, to enjoy salubrious exercise and recreation; it extends
northward to Sandown--about two miles; its monotony being broken by
occasional pools of sea-water, and a sprinkling of weed-covered rocks.
* * * * *
THE CHINE.
[Illustration: SHANKLIN CHINE, ISLE OF WIGHT. (_Descent to the Beach._)]
At the foot of the cliff stands a fisherman's cottage, which may attract
our attention from its picturesque situation.
The first view of the Chine from the beach is not the most favorable: as
the eye of the spectator is much too low to comprehend all the deep and
bold windings of the chasm, which contribute so essentially to its
romantic effect: but, gradually ascending by a narrow path, we soon open
a wider view, and should then pause, to contemplate it on every side. We
see suspended on the opposite slope, the humble ale house, resting
"Beneath an aged oak's embowering shade."
Just below it, a pretty rose-mantled cottage: and not far off, the gable
end of a gentleman's villa, so prominently seated near the margin of the
precipice, as to completely overlook the awful abyss. This view is
altogether picturesque and animated: for the foreground is exceedingly
bold,--and the prospect of Sandown Bay and the sublime cliffs of
Bembridge, give wonderful brilliancy and interest to the perspective.
As we advance, the scene becomes increasingly romantic, especially when
we are about half-way through it: for the deep sides of the chasm so
fold into one another as to exclude all prospect, and yet afford a great
diversity of coloring, light, and shade; the one side being beautifully
hung with indigenous trees or shrubs, and the uncovered portions of the
cliff of a glowing tint; while the opposite side presents the contrast
of a sombre hue, and is generally too steep to admit of much vegetation
ever gaining a permanent footing. Nor is the most critical eye annoyed
by the indications of unnecessary artificial improvements--which so
often tend to destroy the delightful robe of simplicity that such scenes
of Nature's creation wear, _when they are fortunate enough to escape the
infliction of man's refinements_.
"Still slowly climb the many-winding way,
And frequent turn to linger as you go."
We now approach the waterfall, at the HEAD OF THE CHINE; and should
there have been lately any heavy rains, it forms a noble cascade of
about 30 feet; but after a continuance of dry weather, it is reduced to
a scanty rill.
Ascending by a rude path cut in the side of the cliff, we pass through a
rustic wicket, and take our leave of this celebrated scene, which has no
doubt been formed by the slow operation of the streamlet in the course
of many ages, insignificant as it may appear to a casual visitor in the
middle of summer. The Chine of Blackgang is indebted for its origin to a
similar cause: and this of Shanklin would have gone on rapidly
increasing, had not the proprietor resorted to the aid of masonry,
draining, piling, &c. to arrest in some measure its further progress
towards the village.--See p. 33 of the "Vectis Scenery" for a full
account of the formation of the Chines.
The sides of this chasm are about 200 feet in perpendicular height, and
perhaps 300 wide at the top, near the beach, gradually diminishing
towards the Head or waterfall, where the sides are perpendicular, and
only a few yards asunder.
* * * * *
The earthy precipices between Shanklin and Luccombe Chines are called
DUNNOSE,--they form the southern termination of Sandown Bay, which is a
beautiful stretch of shore of above five miles in extent, bounded on the
north by the white cliffs of Bembridge.
* * * * *
As we pursue our tour we can trace the course of the Chine (above the
head), by the freshness and luxuriant growth of the trees that stand on
its narrow banks: and just as we approximate the little parish-church,
pass over a bridge thrown across it--but the streamlet itself is almost
hidden by wild brushwood and aquatic weeds. The spring-head is a little
above the church.
[Illustration: SHANKLIN CHURCH, I.W. _And the Road leading to Luccombe &
the Undercliff_]
The Plate represents the church, and a remarkable portion of the road on
quitting the village for the back of the island; it is seen ascending
circuitously the side of a steep down, between a hanging copse and
several groups of the finest ash trees,--one of which (on the
left-hand,) has long been celebrated for its amplitude and beauty.
It is quite impossible for language to convey more than a faint
idea of the magnificent and interesting prospect which gradually
opens to view as the traveller ascends the mountain ridge: the
British Channel spreads its blue waters as the boundary on the one
side; the greatest portion of the island recedes in the most
charming gradations on the other: and the Solent Channel presents
the animated appearance of a noble river, crowded with ships of
every description; while the opposite coast of Hampshire and Sussex
may be traced more or less distinctly for 70 or 80 miles.
* * * * *
A series of pasturing downs stretch for several miles nearly parallel
with the sea-coast: of these the nearest is Shanklin--its northern slope
being abruptly broken by a fine range of cliff, composed chiefly of gray
free-stone feathered by hanging woods, and on the edge of this beautiful
precipice stand some very picturesque ruins called ...
COOKE's CASTLE,
[Illustration: COOKE's CASTLE. _An ancient ruin on the Appuldurcombe
Estate--Isle of Wight._]
Which being seen from a considerable distance in various directions, and
never before published, appeared to the Artist to well merit a sketch.
Sir Richard Worsley, in his History of the Isle of Wight, states it to
be the "ruin of an ancient castle" (though it has been said that it was
built as an object of view from Appuldurcombe House); but whether
artificial, or really a relic of antiquity, is of little importance,
while it proves so conspicuous an ornament to the scene.
* * * * *
LUCCOMBE CHINE
Is another chasm in the sea-cliffs, similar to Shanklin in its
character, but on a very inferior scale: and therefore is seldom visited
by those in a vehicle who have little time to spare. But many walk from
Shanklin to it, either on the beach (if the tide be ebbing), or by a
foot-path near the edge of the cliffs, the distance being about two
miles: either way is extremely pleasant. A few houses and cottages
scattered about, serve to enliven the scene.
* * * * *
We now approach a most singular and romantic tract of the south-eastern
coast, dividing the claim of _interest_ even with the sublime scenery at
the west end of the island: we mean ...
THE UNDERCLIFF,
Which commences at East End, and terminates at Blackgang Chine, an
extent of above eight miles, averaging about one mile's breadth: and
bounded on the land-side by a towering ridge of perpendicular stone
cliffs, or precipitous chalky hills; presenting in many parts the
venerable time-worn appearance of some ancient fortress. Between this
craggy ridge and the sea-cliffs, every spot bears the striking impress
of some violent convulsion, such in fact as would be produced by an
earthquake: but in proportion to the time that shall have elapsed, so
all the more rugged marks of devastation are either obliterated by the
liberal hand of Nature, or converted into positive beauties. Originally
the whole of this tract, or nearly so, was rock resting on a sort of
loose marly foundation: this being perpetually exposed to the
undermining action of the sea at its foot; accelerated in wet seasons
by the marle being rendered soft and yielding,--it is evident that,
sooner or later, such a foundation would give way to the immense
superincumbent pressure, and be attended with all the direful effects of
a real earthquake.
Most probably other subsidences will yet take place, until more of the
oozy, sliding foundation shall be removed, and its place occupied by a
sufficient quantity of fallen rock, as will secure the stability of the
ground; as we find to be the case for the greater part of this singular
tract, which has certainly been in a state of repose for seven or eight
centuries at least. Fragments of the cliff are indeed frequently
shivered off, but rarely or never attended with any very injurious
consequences: it is those extensive _landslips_ which are alarming, when
many acres of valuable land are completely overturned and laid waste in
a few hours. The huge masses of solid rock thus torn and dashed about,
produce the grandest scenes of terror: but are at the same time the
source of those singular beauties--that variety of fractured cliff and
broken ground, which are the greatest ornaments of this romantic
country.
* * * * *
EAST END.
>>_The Tourist ought, if possible, to walk through this very
romantic scene, and if in a vehicle, be upon his guard that the
driver does not hurry him by it, as is often the case._
* * * * *
Here, as we have said before, the Undercliff commences: and as soon as
the stranger has nearly compassed the valley of Luccombe, he should
particularly enquire for the spot which is the entrance to this romantic
scene ...
"Where twines a path in shadow hid,
Round many a rocky pyramid."
The distance is only a mile: the carriage in the mean time may proceed
on to Bonchurch. But should the party decline the walk, they ought at
least to alight, and advance near enough to the edge of the
precipice, to have a view of the interesting scene below; and they must
bear in mind, that though it lies within a few yards of the road, yet
_to a person passing by_, there is no indication of its being so near.
The great interest of East End arises partly from its present wild
character, and partly from its being the scene of the latest formidable
landslips that have occurred in the island. In the year 1810, a founder
took place which destroyed about twenty acres of land: this was followed
by another, eight years after, that ruined in one night at least thirty
acres more: at which time above twenty full-grown trees were uprooted,
and several of them completely buried in the awful wreck. It therefore
affords the inquisitive traveller the best opportunity of examining the
cause of the peculiar character of this part of the island.
* * * * *
BONCHURCH.
>>_Formerly this was one of the most romantic scenes in the island,
but has lately been converted into a fashionable village. Amidst a
profusion of new houses, more or less tasty in their style--a
villa, called_ EAST DENE, _and the neighbouring old_ CHURCH_, are
all that will here particularly call the stranger from the
carriage-road._
* * * * *
In the year 1834, this beautiful spot was advertised to be sold off in
small lots for building 18 or 20 villas!--a circumstance much regretted
by the admirers of the peculiar scenery of the Undercliff, which was
exhibited here in its utmost perfection. Nearly the whole of the land is
now disposed of; some of the houses were built for the purpose of
letting lodgings; one has been opened as a first-rate Hotel; but the
greater number are private residences,--and certainly it must prove a
most enviable retreat for families or invalids during the winter months.
It is impossible for any spot to be better adapted for a number of
houses being built in a comparatively small compass: for the whole of
the ground is so romantically tossed about by the sportive hand of
Nature,--presenting here a lofty ridge of rocks, there a woody dell
adorned with a purling stream or a limpid pool, that most of the houses
are completely hid from each other's view.
From the bad taste which too generally prevails--we mean the
_vanity of glare_--the affectation of _elegance_,--so frequently
carried out at the expense of all propriety, we were not without
apprehension that many of the gentry at Bonchurch would also
neglect the essential rule, that _the peculiar character of every
scene demands an_ APPROPRIATE STYLE _in building and decoration_;
for it avails little to have ivy-mantled rocks and mossy cliffs,
the sunny knoll and the shady glen, with their groves and
streams,--if the Genius of the spot be not consulted, and HARMONY
made the rule of every innovation and improvement. In a word, it is
too often in building as in dress, that many persons resort to show
and refinement as the surest means of attracting the world's
admiration for their superior taste and rank! But in justice to the
Gentlemen who have located in this fairy-land, we must acknowledge
that they for the most part avoided (as far as was possible),
disturbing the natural beauties of the place, and have studied to
make their happy retreats ...
"Smile with charms
CONGENIAL TO THE SOIL, and all its own:
For Ornament
When foreign or fantastic, never charmed."
>>The reader who may feel an interest on this subject is referred
to pp. 36 and 43 of the "_Vectis Scenery_."
The most delightful residence at Bonchurch is called EAST DENE: the
beauty of its locality is unrivaled; the exterior of the house in a
chaste style; and the interior fitted-up and furnished at a great
expense in the antique mode of the 16th century.
[Illustration: _THE PARISH CHURCH OF_ BONCHURCH _ISLE OF WIGHT_]
The Tourist should certainly visit the old Church, which stands near the
shore, and not far from the road, though concealed from it by a lofty
ridge of the fallen cliff: it is of simple construction, but beautifully
canopied by a grove of magnificent elms, and is supposed to have been
built in the 11th century,--which is taken as a proof that this part of
the Undercliff was certainly in a state of repose at the time of its
erection; and has undoubtedly remained so ever since. Still, we cannot
question for a moment, but this spot must have been in some previous age
(judging from analogy,) subjected to the same catastrophes which we have
witnessed even in our own time in its immediate neighbourhood at East
End. There is also a new Church, of a neat design, beautifully nestled
amongst the rocks in the higher part of the village.
As ROCK, in this part of the island, constitutes the chief source of
picturesque effect, it would be an omission not to point out two crags
which have gained quite a celebrity for their age and beauty: the first
is _Hadfield's Look-out_, boldly rising from the road; the other a
prominence in the face of the upper range of precipices, called _the
Pulpit Rock_: the former has generally the appendage of a
flag-staff,--the latter a rude cross, in unison with its name.
The road through the valley of Bonchurch presents a most enchanting
scene: shaded by noble trees; and edged by bold rocky knolls,--and a
small pellucid lake and stream, beyond which appears a romantic tract of
broken ground and wild brushwood, backed by the venerable grey
land-cliff and the lofty brow of St. Boniface Down. On emerging from
this beautiful spot, we have on our right a genteel residence called ST.
BONIFACE HOUSE, situated close at the foot of the high down which gives
the name; built in a very chaste rural style; and embellished by some
noble trees, and a sparkling rill.
* * * * *
We now open a general view of the fast-improving town of ...
VENTNOR.
>>_This is the chief resting-place between Shanklin and Niton. The_
CHURCH, _and the_ COVE, _are the most interesting features_.
* * * * *
Ventnor has risen into importance with a rapidity greater than any other
place in the island: for as late as the year 1830 it numbered but about
half-a-dozen cottages, one hotel, a small inn, and the accompaniment of
a humble grist-mill, so necessary in a _retired hamlet_ as this was
_then_. But such has since been the eagerness for building, that land
for the purpose which was at that time sold for £100 per acre, soon
advanced to 300 or £400; latterly the price has risen at the rate of 800
to £1000 per acre for the more eligible sites. And at present there are
three first-rate hotels and several minor inns; well stocked shops in
almost every line of business: and medical men established on the spot.
Several streets of considerable extent are completed, others are rapidly
progressing; and much has also been done in the way of public
improvements, such as paving, lighting, &c. The new Esplanade, on the
beach, cannot fail to prove a delightful convenience both to the
inhabitants and visitors at Ventnor.
It is greatly indebted for its prosperity to Dr. Clarke's popular
Treatise, to which we have already referred (p. 16,) when speaking of
the climate generally. Its progress was still more accelerated by the
interest which the proprietor of Steephill Castle, John Hambrough, esq.,
took in its success, by erecting a handsome church, a large free-school,
parsonage, &c.
Building being still carried on with undiminished speculation, the
general appearance of the town must be consequently anything but
agreeable--nor has there been the lapse of sufficient time for the
growth of the shrubberies (however genial the climate,) to attain that
size which would afford the relief of even a partial screen. Little
therefore can be particularized under the present _changing aspect_ of
the place.
Among the buildings which attract attention in entering by the old road,
are the connected range called St. Boniface Terrace, occupying a
commanding situation, and the houses concurring in one general design:
and below, some extensive erections, of rather a novel appearance to the
untraveled eye, being strictly in imitation of the airy and picturesque
style of the Italian villa.
The somewhat confused appearance of Ventnor is no doubt owing to its
unexpected advance having prevented the adoption of any uniform
ground-plan, as would no doubt have been done could the proprietor of
the land have foreseen the magnitude to which the place was so soon to
extend,--for in this respect a considerable improvement is visible in
the latest-erected part of the town. The most regularly laid-out streets
are near the shore: and one branch-road runs by the edge of the
sea-cliffs for about half a mile towards Bonchurch, thus affording the
houses an uninterrupted view of the sea.
[Illustration: To JOHN HAMBROUGH _Esq. of Steephill Castle, in the Isle
of Wight_, _This view of_ ST. CATHERINE'S CHURCH, _erected by him at_
VENTNOR, _is most respectfully inscribed by His much obliged humble
servant, GEORGE BRANNON._]
ST. CATHARINE'S CHURCH is a beautiful feature in every respect, both in
its exterior and interior, being the neatest in the island: and situated
as it is on a commanding knoll nearly in the middle of the town, affords
an admirable relief to the whole scene, by arresting the eye from the
scattered glare of the surrounding slate-roofed and white-walled
buildings,--which are almost the universal character of the houses.
* * * * *
The COVE presents at certain times a very animated and engaging picture:
fishermen preparing for or returning from their voyage; invalids and
other respectable parties sauntering or reclining on the sunny beach:
some reading, others amused in listening to, and watching the curling
waves expire at their feet in spreading foam. The material of the shore
is principally fine shingle, or very small pebbles, among which
particles are frequently picked up, possessing a brilliancy that has
gained for them the title of "Isle of Wight diamonds;" and though they
may be comparatively of inferior value in point of intrinsic
quality,--still, the _interest_ taken in searching for them must prove a
source of the most agreeable employment to those visitors whose health
precludes any exercise of a more active nature.
ST. BONIFACE DOWN, which forms a green back-ground to the view, is also
an object of interest (at least with artists or amateurs of sketching,)
that ought not to be passed by unnoticed. It is exceedingly steep: has a
never-failing spring on its lofty summit, and is often cheerfully
sprinkled with sheep, of the South-down breed, safely nibbling the close
herbage on its precipitous side.
Speaking of the down, we should deserve to be censured by those of
our elderly readers who may have been to Ventnor ere it reached the
magnitude of a town, not to inform them, that _the then only Hotel_
(so beautifully seated close at the foot of the hill,) _is no
longer a place of public accommodation_; the license has been
transferred. Many were the respectable parties of the olden time
who used to amuse themselves with the attempt to gain the summit of
the down,--sometimes successfully, but more frequently at the
expense of a rather too precipitate descent, to the no small
diversion of their friends who had less daring to make the
experiment. In this age of refinement, such displays of rural
agility would be regarded as "utterly vulgar!" there are however
more circuitous and accessible paths by which we may reach the
eminence, and hence enjoy a most delightful prospect.
In concluding this brief notice of Ventnor, it would be very unfair
to Dr. Clarke, not to mention the fact, that he was decidedly
opposed to the residences of invalids (with pulmonary consumption)
being accumulated together "_in the form of a Town_;" he recommends
that a number of _detached_ houses should be built along the
Undercliff, each surrounded with the protection of a garden-wall
and a few trees. But, begging the Doctor's pardon, we heartily
rejoice that his advice could not be acted upon to any considerable
extent (except at Ventnor and Bonchurch); because fortunately the
most eligible and attractive spots in this romantic district are in
the holding of gentlemen who have chosen such for their _private_
residences: and certainly, if selfishness was ever pardonable, it
is so in this instance; nay, for our part, we really congratulate
the public, that the spirit of exclusiveness so widely exists in
this happy region of the sublime and beautiful. For what a
lamentable transformation it would prove of the natural character
of the scenery, to have many large and often glary houses obtruding
upon the eye in every direction! banishing all the _wildest_ and
most interesting local beauties, for domestic convenience or
fantastic embellishment! Where then would be the attraction to call
the thousands annually to our romantic isle? Where those UNIQUE
LANDSCAPES which now constitute its proudest charm?
And after all, the Doctor's objection to a residence in town, is
largely compensated for in the case of Ventnor, by the many
advantages afforded to invalids, that could be procured only in a
populous place: such for instance as regular stage-coaches running
to and from Ryde and other places; a good landing-place;
bathing-machines; a post-office and reading-rooms; the location of
several apothecaries and eminent physicians: tradesmen of almost
every description; and the facility of enjoying society in the
dullest winter months.
Westward of Ventnor, we have a sudden and most agreeable transition from
the glare of the town to a quiet picture of rural scenery, broken only
by two or three cottages neatly built in the antique style; this is the
commencement of the property of Mr. Hambrough (of Steephill Castle),
which extends to St. Lawrence, the estate of Earl Yarborough; succeeded
by Old Park; and near Niton, the seats of Mrs. Arnold, Sir W. Gordon,
and Mrs. Vine: altogether a delightful distance of above four miles;
which we hope will long escape any desecration of its beauties by the
operations of building speculators.
* * * * *
APPULDURCOMBE.
This splendid seat, from its proximity to the Undercliff, is most
frequently embraced either in the south-eastern or the continued Tour,
in preference to giving it a separate day: therefore here is perhaps the
best place for its notice, especially as the regular road from Ventnor
to Newport passes close by: and as it is only two miles from the former
town. It is thus described by Sir Richard Worsley, in his "History of
the Isle of Wight:"
"The house is pleasantly situated about seven miles south of the
town of Newport: it has four regular fronts of the Corinthian
order, built of freestone; the pilasters, cornices, ballustrades,
and other ornamental parts are of Portland stone; the roof is
covered with Westmoreland slates. The grand entrance in the east
front is through a hall 54 feet in length by 24 in breadth, adorned
with eight beautiful columns of the Ionic order resembling
porphyry. On this floor are several handsome apartments, containing
many valuable portraits, and other good paintings; the offices are
very commodious, and on the first and attic stories are upwards of
twenty bed-chambers with dressing-rooms. The house was begun by Sir
Robert Worsley, in 1710: and completed by Sir Richard Worsley, who
made considerable additions, and much improved upon the original
design."
Sir Richard spent a great portion of his life in collecting the
paintings and other relics of antiquity which adorn the mansion, and
published a very sumptuous descriptive work, entitled "Museum
Worsleyanum." The Estate descended to the Pelham family by the marriage
of the Baronet's niece to the late Earl Yarborough.
The park of Appuldurcombe is extensive; and the soil being extremely
rich, supports a great number both of deer and cattle,--the former of
which is nowhere else to be found in the island. At the back of the
mansion rises a lofty hill, whose sides are hung with groves of noble
beech, interspersed with many venerable oaks. On the summit is an
obelisk, originally seventy feet high, built of Cornish granite, to the
memory of Sir Robert Worsley: but of late years it has suffered severely
from the high winds, to the violence of which its elevated position
renders it so exposed. From almost every part of this down we gain the
most splendid views; below, is the rich vale of Arreton, Newchurch, and
Godshill: beyond is seen on the north, Portsmouth and the neighbouring
anchorages, with the wooded heights above Southampton Water; eastward
are the beautiful shores of Sandown Bay; to the west the prospect is
continued far beyond the white cliffs of Freshwater, by the coasts of
Hants and Dorset: and on the south expands the azure horizon of the
boundless ocean.
N.B. Strangers desirous of visiting Appuldurcombe, must provide
themselves with tickets at the office of the stewards, Messrs. Sewell,
Solicitors, Newport: the days allowed are Tuesdays and Fridays, between
the hours of 11 and 4 o'clock.
* * * * *
GODSHILL,
Bordering on Appuldurcombe Park, is a populous village, chiefly
remarkable for the very picturesque situation of the Church, a large and
venerable pile, which stands upon a steep hill in the centre of the
village,--commanding such an extensive and beautiful prospect as will of
itself repay the tourist for the trouble of ascending. The interior of
the church is enriched by several interesting monuments, ancient and
modern, in memory of the various possessors of the Appuldurcombe
estates,--the most sumptuous being that to Sir J. Leigh and his lady,
whose marble effigies are canopied by a beautifully ornamented arch; and
the massive tomb of Sir Richard Worsley, which occupies the south
transept, where a colored window is placed to give it greater
effect.--Godshill has a small country inn called the Griffin.
* * * * *
The distance from Ventnor to Godshill is four miles:--and thence to
Newport, six: the country is well-cultivated, but presents no object to
call for particular notice: we pass the hamlet of ROOKLEY: and the
villas of PIDFORD and STANDEN.
WHITWELL is a very retired village, winding between Godshill and Niton:
and having a church of some antiquity.
* * * * *
Returned to the Undercliff, the next place in our route which boasts of
superior scenic beauty is ...
STEEPHILL,
[Illustration: STEEPHILL, UNDERCLIFF, ISLE OF WIGHT.]
Where a splendid CASTLE was erected in the year 1833, by J. Hambrough,
esq. (thence often called after his name), on a broad terrace of rock
that rises almost perpendicularly from the present road: and here it may
not be quite uninteresting to state--at least to some of our friends who
used to visit the island years ago, that the castle occupies the very
site of the once-noted Cottage of the late Earl Dysart, and which was
for many years that nobleman's favorite retreat. Steephill was then a
most charming rural hamlet; but the cottages are removed (much to the
advantage of the tenants), to afford a scope in the grounds
corresponding with the dignity of the new mansion. Rustic simplicity and
the wilder graces have given way to elegance and polished decoration:
but whether the alteration
"Adds beauties to what Nature plann'd before,"
Is merely a question of taste, on which we shall not presume to decide:
various are the opinions,
--"And many a stranger stops,
With curious eye, to censure or admire."
As the public are now excluded from the garden and pleasure-grounds, it
is rather difficult to get a good view of the castle; the best places
however are ... a lofty knoll or promontory on the opposite side of the
road,--and a rocky mound near THE CAVE, which is in the face of the
sea-cliffs, marked by a flag-staff; and there is, close by, a path to
the beach. Half an hour's saunter would be quite sufficient to enable a
visitor to judge of the beauty of the scene--which at one time procured
it the title of _Queen of the Undercliff_. If but five minutes can be
spared, the tourist ought to quit his vehicle, and reach the brow of the
promontory above alluded to, were it only for the sake of the delightful
prospect which it affords.
The coast of Steephill forms a pleasant little cove or bay, with
remarkably bold and picturesque headlands: and the place altogether
equals any part of the Undercliff in its natural embellishment of rich
groves and sparkling streams, mossy rocks, and broken ground.
DESCRIPTION OF THE CASTLE.--In the design of this stately edifice,
it appears to have been the aim of the architect to combine, as
much as possible, all the internal advantages of a plain mansion,
with the commanding form and embellished detail which usually
characterize a castellated structure. It is not therefore open to
an objection which lies against many of the most picturesque
specimens of this dignified style of building--that internal
convenience was sacrificed to the production of bold and pleasing
contrasts in the face of the exterior: or that it was the growth of
successive improvements. Indeed, both inside and out, all appears
to be handsomely proportioned and well-arranged; while in any point
of view the whole presents an aspect of elegant simplicity.--The
general form of the castle is an oblong; and the most prominent
features ... one majestic square tower which springs from about the
centre of the north side; another tower of an octagon form at the
south-eastern angle; and a beautiful hall-entrance on the east. The
predominant tint is a dark grey: but the battlements, quoins, and
mouldings, are of a light warm color, resembling the Bath stone.
This opposition of tints has a most pleasing, chaste effect, when
closely examined: but at a distance the whole melts into a sober
hue, like the grey impression of time, and hence harmonizes the
more sweetly with the surrounding scenery. Both kinds of stone were
procured on the spot.--The architect was the late Mr. James
Sanderson, of Ryde.
* * * * *
_Remarks on the Exclusion of Strangers from most of the Gentlemen's
Seats_.--However provoking it may prove to many visitors when
making the tour of the island, to be shut out from a view of some
of the most charming seats, still it may be justified in a
considerable degree; and we feel it our duty to repeat what we have
stated elsewhere, that we know several gentlemen who would freely
open their gates to respectable visitors, provided they could be
assured of every party being contented with a general view of the
local beauties, without indulging a too prying curiosity; and at
the same time would _refrain from plucking choice flowers, fruits,
and shrubs_, many of which may perhaps have been cultivated by the
hands of the owner with an affection of no little solicitude and
pride; and of course it is not always convenient to keep a person
merely to act as an attendant. But a more decisive reason with many
gentlemen who love retirement is, that from the island becoming
every year more and more attractive with pleasure-parties, an
_unlimited admission_ of strangers would at once annihilate all the
charms of rural seclusion; it would in fact be converting the
flowery walks of a quiet country-villa into as giddy a promenade as
almost any popular tea-garden in the suburbs of the metropolis.
Still however, speaking generally, it requires only some slight
grounds of introduction: and in the absence of the family there is
of course less difficulty,--it being then a privilege often given
to the servants.
* * * * *
ST. LAWRENCE.
>>_The_ CHURCH, _here, is from its diminutiveness, quite an object of
curiosity; and the stranger will also notice_ THE WELL, _on the
road-side; but the_ VILLA _and_ COTTAGE _are both secluded from public
view_.
* * * * *
"Here lawns, and groves, and op'ning prospects break
With sweet surprize upon the wand'ring eye:--
While through romantic scenes and hanging woods.
And valleys green, and rocks, and hollow dales,
We rove enchanted."
The scenery of St. Lawrence is a singular union of the cultivated with
the wild and romantic--a pleasing interchange of the elegance of
splendid retirement with the unobtrusive dwellings of laboring peasants,
scattered amidst sheltering groves and ivy-covered rocks. Here the Rt.
Hon. Earl Yarborough has ...
"A country-cottage--near a chrystal flood,
A winding valley, and a lofty wood;"
Long celebrated as the favorite retreat of the late Sir Richard Worsley,
of Appuldurcombe Park, who embellished it in quite a classical
style--planting a vineyard, decorating the grounds with models of
ancient temples, &c. The house has since been considerably enlarged, and
ornamented in the old-English style with elaborate barge-boards and
pinnacles. At a short distance is the recently built residence of his
Lordship's brother, the Hon. Capt. C.D. Pelham, R.N.--also in the
Elizabethan style. By way of contradistinction, the original is
emphatically called _the Villa_, and the latter, _the Cottage_. It is
much to be regretted, that the public have of late been altogether
excluded from the grounds--from even walking on the edge of the
sea-cliffs!
[Illustration: ST LAWRENCE CHURCH _UNDERCLIFF ISLE OF WIGHT_]
The miniature CHURCH seldom fails of proving an amusing object with
every visitor,--for it ranks among the smallest parochial places of
religious worship in Great Britain: its belfry, the pretty little porch,
and its several windows, are all in character; it has however lately
been found necessary to lengthen the building, in consequence of the
increase of population in the vicinity.
[Illustration: _ST LAWRENCE.--The WELL near the Marine Villa of the
Right Honourable Lord Yarborough.--Isle of Wight._]
THE WELL encloses a fountain of ever-running crystal water, the soft
murmurs of which combine with the surrounding scene to produce the most
agreeable feelings; and it is marked by so much of that beautiful
simplicity which is the foundation of picturesque effect, that perhaps
no other object in its charming neighbourhood, except the little church,
will afford the stranger more immediate pleasure.
* * * * *
THE ROAD FROM ST. LAWRENCE TO NITON.
>>_For the succeeding mile and a half, our attention will be called
to no one particular object; but we shall have the Undercliff in
all its native character, a circumstance which must prove
gratifying to those who admire Nature in_ HER OWN _attire_,
* * * * *
The reader will be pleased, we have no doubt, with the following brief
notice of this part of the coast, by the late celebrated Mrs.
Radcliffe:--
"Oct. 15, 1811.--Passed Lord Dysart's beautiful cottage: it stands
at some distance from the shore, and has several distinct roofs,
well thatched: stands at the head of a winding lawn, with a fine
beech-grove, and richly-colored copse. The little parish-church of
St. Lawrence, perhaps the smallest in England, stands on a knoll,
and terminates the cultivated valley; immediately beyond which we
entered upon a scene of the wildest grandeur and solemnity. Many of
the ruinous precipices of the upper cliffs project in horizontal
strata, yet have perpendicular rents. Some of the shattered masses
give the clearest echoes: we stood before one which responded every
syllable with an exactness which was truly astonishing.--There is
sometimes what may be called an amphitheatre of rock, where all the
area is filled with ruins, which are however covered with verdure
and underwood, that stretch up the sides with the wildest pomp: and
shelter here a cottage, there a villa, among the rocky hillocks."
* * * * *
Passing a gentleman's residence situated below the road on our left,
called OLD PARK (not from its display of sylvan honors), we should look
out for a romantic ascent in the lofty cliffs called ...
CRIPPLE-PATH:
It is worth examining, being a curious instance of the formation of the
bold horizontal crags and ledges which distinguish these hoary
precipices. For some distance the path is in a sunken stratum of soft
freestone, while the upper ledge of more stubborn rock overhangs it
several feet. Having reached the eminence by a rude winding staircase in
a rent of the cliff,--we shall be well repaid for our trifling labor,
by the beautiful prospect which is disclosed of the Undercliff, spread
like an extensive garden immediately under our feet. Many parties walk
hence on the edge of the cliffs to Niton, &c.
MIRABLES is another charming villa, through whose luxuriant plantations
the road is carried for nearly half a mile, affording a most grateful
shade: but, by the bye, at the expense of all prospect.
"Refreshing change, where now the blazing sun?
By short transition we have lost his glare,
And stepp'd at once into a cooler clime."
The house is secluded from our view: it is in the plain cottage style:
but the grounds are not surpassed for rock and sylvan beauty by any seat
on the coast.
We successively pass through the grounds, close and open, of the three
following villas:
THE ORCHARD (on the same side of the road as Mirables, and like it, not
open to the public view): a spacious villa in the embellished style, and
the grounds immediately in front being formed into a succession of
walled terraces, where the grape-vine and the peach find a congenial
aspect: the coping too is adorned with a profusion of elegant vases,
filled with the choicest flowers, nor is a gentle fountain wanting to
complete the Italian beauty of the scene.
BEAUCHAMP, an unpretending residence in the simple cottage style, on the
right-hand side of the road, proceeding to Niton: we catch a glimpse of
it through the trees.
PUCKASTER COTTAGE, the property of the late James Vine, esq., remarkable
for its chaste and _appropriate_ design, _as a residence seated amidst
colossal rocks, precipices, and wild tufted knolls_. The house, the
improvements in the grounds, and every decoration, in character,--UNITY
marking the whole: rather an uncommon circumstance, where there is an
unceasing desire to give every grace to a favorite scene--and withal,
ample scope and means to indulge the wish.
The old road now makes a sudden turn on our right, and here occurs the
only considerable break in the upper boundary line of the Undercliff
from one end to the other. To the left of us, a considerable extent of
land has been laid out and partly disposed of, for the purpose of
building on; and new roads made accordingly: but as yet however the
speculation has not been carried on with much spirit.
At a short distance we come in front of the garden-wall of a gentleman's
villa called WESTCLIFF, a beautiful and well-sheltered spot where the
road abruptly divides, the left-hand branch pursuing the tour to
Blackgang Chine, and the right to Newport through NITON, a village
composed of a number of stone-built thatched cottages, some of which are
furnished for lodgings; and has also a decent small inn called the White
Lion. The Church is a pretty little object enough, standing at the foot
of the down, over which used to be the only direct high-road to Chale
and Blackgang Chine.
Continuing on towards the Chalybeate Spring, we pass Westcliff, and come
to the ROYAL SANDROCK HOTEL, placed in a most beautiful and commanding
situation; it will be readily distinguished by its ample verandah,
mantled with the choicest creepers.--Next to the Hotel appears MOUNT
CLEEVES, a respectable residence near the foot of the cliff, surrounded
by huge rocks and craggy mounds:--one of these is adorned by a small
obelisk that serves to mark a beautiful feature which would otherwise be
overlooked. The cottage-lodge below is a remarkably pretty object.--See
the Plate.
This part of the Undercliff is at once picturesque and lively; there
being just sufficient houses to give the scenery a cheerful aspect,
without intrenching too much on the natural beauties of the place.
We now enter on a scene which gives us a complete picture of the
Undercliff in all its genuine lines,--for it was the subject of an
extensive landslip in the year 1799, when a tract of about one hundred
acres was disturbed, the whole sliding forward in a mass towards the
sea, rifting into frightful chasms, and alternately rising and falling
like the waves of the sea: a cottage was overturned, but fortunately no
lives were lost.
[Illustration: THE UNDERCLIFF, _Between the Sandrock Hotel & the
Chalybeate Spring,--affording the best idea of the romantic character of
that part of the Isle of Wight._]
The annexed Plate of "the Undercliff, as it appears between the
Sandrock Hotel and Blackgang Chine," is introduced in order to give an
idea of the _general aspect_ of this singular tract: the wall-like
precipice which is the land-boundary rises abruptly on the right: the
intermediate space to the sea-shore is broken into a series of craggy
knolls and dells: the carriage-road threading its way between immense
masses of the fallen cliff,--now conducted along the margin of a
dangerous slope or precipice; and now descending into a theatre of
detached rocks and wild vegetation; but even here, though the softer
charms of scenery be wanting, it proves that ...
--"Whether drest or rude,
Wild without art, or artfully subdued,
Nature in every form inspires delight."
* * * * *
>> _The individual objects in the neighbourhood of Niton, calling for
particular remark, are few; notwithstanding the general aspect of the
scenery is strikingly wild and sombre. The_ LIGHT-HOUSE _will force
itself on our attention: the_ CHALYBEATE SPRING _ought not to be passed
by unnoticed; but the crowning feature of the district is_ BLACKGANG
CHINE, _a scene of the most terrific grandeur_.
ST. CATHARINE'S LIGHT-HOUSE.
[Illustration: ST. CATHARINE'S LIGHT-HOUSE NITON, ISLE OF WIGHT.]
The building of this lofty tower was commenced in the spring of 1839,
and finished in the following year: the undertaking having originated in
consequence of the loss of the ship _Clarendon_ (see p. 85). From the
frequent wrecks on this most dangerous part of the coast, it is rather
surprizing that such a warning friend to the hapless mariner was not
erected before: because many of the catastrophes were owing to the want
of some light or signal in the night, which could be distinctly seen by
seamen long ere they reached the fatal shore. It is true indeed, that
between 50 and 60 years ago, a Light-house was built on the summit of
St. Catharine's down, but for some reason not known to the public, it
never was equipped and lighted: and was in fact very soon abandoned. It
has been said that the site was too elevated, that it would be quite
obscured by fogs and mists in those very seasons when its friendly ray
was the most required;--it might be so, but certainly that was never
proved by the experiment: and it seems strange that these grounds of
objection were not suggested to the projectors in time.
The new Light-house stands near the edge of the sea-cliffs, at an
elevation of about fifty feet above the beach. The stone Tower is 101
feet high from the surface of the ground, besides the lantern of about
20 feet more: and the foundation is of _solid masonry_ to the depth of
thirty feet! The requisite offices for the two light-keepers are built
round the foot of the tower, and are comparatively low, so that at a
distance the lofty fabric appears as a magnificent column, or
"Like some tall watch-tower nodding o'er the deep,
Whose rocky base the foaming waters sweep."
Inside the tower a broad stone staircase winds spirally to the top; and
many visitors make the ascent, for the sake of the beautiful view
afforded of the adjacent part of the Undercliff, as well as for
examining the splendid and complicated lantern.
* * * * *
As the carriage-road now pursues its mazy course through ...
"Crags, knolls, and mounds, confus'dly hurl'd,
The fragments of an earlier world,"
We soon reach the locality of the SANDROCK CHALYBEATE SPRING: easily
recognized by the low thatched roof of the Dispensary Cottage, that
stands nearly on the brow of the cliff, as the water issues from a rock
considerably below, inclosed in a plain piece of masonry. It has been
proved by repeated analyses, that there is a larger proportion of iron
and alumine in this than in any other mineral water yet discovered: and
its medicinal properties are therefore decidedly indicated in the cure
of those disorders arising from a relaxed fibre and languid circulation,
such as indigestion, flatulency, nervous disorders, and debility from a
long residence in hot climates.
Great improvement has taken place in the neighbourhood of the Spring,
within these few years, by _extensive draining_: thus preventing the
land-soaks and springs during winter from settling into frequent pools,
and thereby reducing the soil to the repulsive condition of a sterile
waste of quagmire and sliding rocks, and in every succeeding summer
drying up into a thousand dangerous holes and fissures. The ground in
fact is now sufficiently firm to invite the builder to the erection of
some good houses; and the surface exhibits a healthy herbage: roads have
also been made to the shore. A large and handsome-looking house, called
an "Italian Villa," has been erected on the east side of the
Spring,--but if the architect ever copied such for his model, he
certainly should have selected a site more appropriate, that would have
justified his choice of style by its genial aspect, its greenwood
shades, and the vegetative luxuriance of the soil.
* * * * *
The shore here is called ROCKEN-END RACE, being composed of vast
confused heaps of rocky fragments precipitated in the course of ages
from the cliffs above, and now stretching out into the sea for nearly a
mile and a half.--Between this and Freshwater lie other formidable
reefs, respectively named from the nearest villages, ATHERFIELD,
CHILTON, and BROOKE; they are extremely dangerous: and previously to the
erection of the new Light-house, occasioned frequent shipwrecks.
* * * * *
BLACKGANG CHINE,
[Illustration: BLACKGANG CHINE, I.W. _Taken from below the new Bridge,
which is a very general point of view, as the descent to the shore
thence becomes more abrupt and difficult._]
"Where hills with naked heads the tempests meet--
Rocks at their sides, and torrents at their feet,"
Deservedly ranks among the most striking scenes in the island, it is the
termination of the Undercliff, and of a character the very reverse of
Shanklin; for all here is terrific grandeur--without a green spray or
scarcely a tuft of verdure to soften its savage aspect. It differs also
from that sylvan spot, in being much more lofty, abrupt, and irregular:
though it does not penetrate the land so far. Both have their respective
admirers: this for its awful sublimity--that for its romantic beauty.
At the head of the Chine is a spacious Hotel, close to the road, and
distinguished by the name of the place.
The shelving sides of this gloomy chasm are proved to be little less
than 500 feet from the beach in perpendicular height; they are in a
constant state of decay--more or less considerable according to the
degree of rain and frost during winter: for the same description of
soil, namely, a mixture of clay and loose absorbent marle, interspersed
with veins of gravel, predominate here as we have seen elsewhere in its
neighbourhood. The only relief in fact to the dusky tint of the scene,
is two or three horizontal strata of yellowish free-stone, which give it
a step-like appearance. The most remarkable feature is a tremendous
gloomy hollow or cave, scooped out of the cliffs on the sea-shore by the
united action of the waves and the stream: the latter falls over a ledge
of the stubborn rock at the top, 70 feet high: and after heavy floods,
forms a noble cascade of one unbroken sheet: but like others of its
class, in summer fails in its amount, and often degenerates into a
noiseless dribble.
Nowhere can we get a complete view of Blackgang except off on the water,
which is not always practicable: certainly not in the very seasons when
the whole appears with the greatest interest,--when there is a strong
wind and tide setting in-shore, and the face of Nature is shrouded in
deepening gloom, with perhaps some hapless vessel in danger of being
wrecked,--it is then dressed in all the congenial horrors of savage
sublimity.--No one, a stranger to the sea-coast, would imagine how
awfully the surges lash the stony beach in tempestuous weather: the
high-curling waves break with a deafening roar, and mounting the lofty
cliffs in sheets of dazzling foam, are wafted in misty clouds half over
the island--even to Newport, where the windows facing the south are
occasionally dimmed with the saline vapors, almost to an incrustation.
The visitor will of course endeavour to descend to the shore; but this
is sometimes attended with considerable fatigue and difficulty, after
wet weather, to those who are delicate and infirm. For this reason, we
have taken our sketch from near the new bridge, to which the descent
from the hotel is generally easy: and from which the visitor may gain
such a view as will enable him to form a very good idea of the whole
scene. The windings of the Chine commence a little below the Hotel,
which (as already stated) stands at least 500 feet above the beach.
From the proximity of several newly erected villas and
lodging-houses, it ought here to be stated to the visitor, that the
_true character_ of the place is in consequence greatly injured:
for the garish and obtrusive habitations of genteel life but ill
accord with that solitary and impressive magnificence which
constitutes the very interest--the sublimity and peculiarity of a
silent and cheerless scene, such as formerly were the aspect and
condition of Blackgang Chine and its immediate neighbourhood.
"There has long been a tradition that Blackgang Chine was once the
favorite retreat of a gang of pirates, and from that circumstance
its name was derived.--Without disputing the fact of its having
offered occasionally concealment and a safe depository to
smugglers, or even pirates for a time,--it is equally, if not more
probable, that it is indebted for its very expressive appellation
to its sombre coloring, and the _step-like_ appearance of the
strata, if the word _gang_ be admitted to have the same
signification as it has in a ship."
* * * * *
Between Blackgang and Freshwater are several other Chines on an inferior
scale, partaking more or less of the same sterile aspect: such are
Walpan, Whale, Compton, Cowleaze and the Shepherd's, Grange, Chilton,
and Brooke: but though several of them are well entitled to notice, they
are seldom visited, owing to their remoteness from the public roads.
>> It should be observed however, that though they possess less
scenic interest than those already described,--they embrace a
portion of the island most attractive to the geologist, from the
circumstance of the cliffs and shores abounding in the most
beautiful specimens of fossil remains.--We would moreover call the
attention of those visitors who may desire to examine into the
agency which has produced the chines, to the two called _Cowleaze_
and _the Shepherd's_--the latter of which has been formed within
the last 40 years, in consequence, it is said, of a countryman in
an idle moment turning the course of the small rivulet which had
hitherto run through Cowleaze. They are situated about a mile from
Brixton.
* * * * *
ST. CATHARINE'S HILL
(In the steep side of which on the south is Blackgang Chine), is the
highest in the island, or between 800 and 900 feet above the level of
the sea. An ancient octagon tower stands at the top, built on the site
of, or rather as an appendage to, a hermitage--originally endowed by a
benevolent individual for the purpose of providing lights in dark and
stormy nights:--there is also the shell of the old light-house mentioned
at p. 79.
The regular carriage-road between Chale and Niton used to be over this
down previous to the year 1838: and we in some measure regret (although
_celerity_ in travelling be now the order of the day), that it is
superseded by the road then made to Blackgang: to the admirers of
illimitable prospect it afforded a rich treat, "for language is scarcely
adequate to describe the various beauties which present themselves from
this elevated spot."
On the northern extremity of St. Catharine's down is an elegant and most
conspicuous object (72 feet high,) called the ALEXANDRIAN PILLAR: the
purpose of its erection is perhaps best told by the inscription itself:
"_In commemoration of the visit of his Imperial Majesty Alexander
I, Emperor of all the Russias, to Great Britain in the year
1814--and in remembrance of the many happy years' residence in his
dominions--this Pillar was erected by Michael Hoy._"
On the slope is a seat called the MEDINA HERMITAGE (formerly the
summer-residence of the gentleman named on the pillar): the house is
characterized by simplicity and neatness: and its greatest ornament is a
large verandah, having a broad _trellis_ roof, beautifully intertwined
with the sweetest varieties of climbing plants. From its very elevated
situation, it commands a rich display of the country from Niton to
Newport.
* * * * *
CHALE CHURCH
Must be passed in the regular tour, going to or returning from Blackgang;
stands close to the road; and though simple in its architecture, has a
venerable and rather picturesque appearance--especially its square tower,
which proves a great relief to the flatness of the view looking westward
to the Freshwater cliffs: dates its erection in the 12th century; and
exposed as it is to the rage of the elements, affords an instance of the
stability which characterizes the structures of antiquity.
The cemetery of Chale incloses many a shipwrecked mariner--no doubt some
hundreds who were deposited, in the course of ages, without any memento
whatever: but the public are now more interested, from the circumstance
of the unfortunate sufferers in the wreck of the ship Clarendon being
here interred,--to whose memory tombstones are erected, on which the
date and other particulars of their melancholy fate are recorded.
* * * * *
WRECKS ON THE SOUTHERN COAST.
We have already stated how dangerous this part of the coast is
during a south or south-west wind, to vessels unmanageable in a
storm: and previously to the erection of the new Light-house, few
winters passed without two or more wrecks occurring between Niton
and Freshwater Bay. In former times, the _waifs_, or possession of
such remains of ships or their cargoes as were washed ashore, seems
to have been a valued right of this, as well as some other manors
in the Isle of Wight; and many tales have been told of the
inhumanity of the wreckers who in those days are said to have
resided in the neighbourhood,--which, if true, are strongly
contrasted by the ready zeal and liberality which the present
inhabitants display in assisting those unfortunates whom the
furious elements so often cast on this fatal shore.
Of the numerous vessels which have been lost here in our own time,
the largest was perhaps the _Carn-brea Castle_ East Indiaman, in
July 1829: she left Spithead at nine o'clock in the morning, and
about six hours afterwards struck on the rocks near Mottistone: the
weather being fine, her crew and passengers easily reached the
shore. The size of the ship, and the remarkable circumstances under
which she was lost, attracted a considerable number of visitors to
the spot,--as she was not immediately broken up, though all hopes
of removing her were soon abandoned.
A far more disastrous wreck was that of the CLARENDON, a West India
trader of 350 tons, which took place on the 11th of October, 1836:
and will be remembered with increased interest, as the acknowledged
fact of her loss being mainly attributable to the want of some
warning beacon on the land, led almost directly to the erection of
the splendid light-house at Niton. She had 11 passengers, male and
female, and 17 seamen on board: her cargo consisted of sugar, rum,
molasses, and turtle; she was heavily laden, and had been about six
weeks on her voyage. The preceding evening was fine, and the breeze
favorable, and the passengers retired to rest in fancied security,
with the pleasing hope of safely reaching their destination on the
following day. After midnight the wind increased; but though the
ship drove rapidly before it, no danger was perceived till about
day-break,--when, already in the surf, there was no longer a
possibility of escape. The crew immediately proceeded to set all
sail the storm would permit, in hopes of weathering the point; but
their gallant efforts could not long delay the fate of the doomed
vessel, she continued to drift towards the beach, on which she
struck a little before six o'clock, and within five minutes was
totally demolished. It would be a useless attempt to describe the
horrors of that short but fearful period: all that could be
gathered from the statements of the survivors was, that she twice
touched the ground lightly, forward, at which time all her people
were assembled on the deck; and presently one mountain wave hurled
her broadside on the beach with such stupendous force, that the
huge hull at once parted into a thousand fragments! The frightful
brevity of the whole catastrophe prevented any measures being taken
for the relief of the passengers and crew, although the ship was
scarcely twice her own length from the cliff; and all perished
except the mate and two seamen, who were rescued by the courageous
exertions of some countrymen who had hastened to the spot as soon
as dawn disclosed the inevitable danger of the vessel.--For some
hours afterwards a hideous spectacle was here presented,--the naked
and mangled bodies of the unfortunate sufferers, with the remains
of the vessel and cargo, were tossed about in dire confusion by the
raging waves, or dashed again and again on the stony beach; but
before the close of the day, most of the former had been drawn
ashore, and the broken fragments of the wreck were strewed on the
beach for several miles. Six of the passengers (an officer named
Shore, his wife, and daughters,) were buried in Newport churchyard,
where a monument has since been erected to their memory; and it is
a strange fact that the premises which adjoin that cemetery on the
western side, had been but a short time previously engaged for
their reception by a near relative, who there anxiously awaited the
ship's arrival. Most of the others (as already mentioned,) were
interred at Chale.
Subsequently, the wrecks on the island coast have been less
numerous, and rarely accompanied by loss of life or any other
circumstance of particular interest: the case of H.M. Steam-sloop
SPHYNX, however, having excited so large a share of public
attention, claims a brief notice. Returning from her first voyage
to Africa, she neared the coast during a thick fog about six
o'clock on the morning of Jan. 16, 1847: and by the force of her
engines was driven over the outer ledge (off Brooke), and firmly
fixed in the clay beds within. The suddenness of the accident
caused great alarm amongst her crew and passengers (300 in number):
and the startling discharges of her heavy artillery quickly aroused
the inhabitants for miles round: but daylight and the ebbing tide
enabled her people to reach land with no great
difficulty,--although a boat, sent to her from another war-steamer,
capsized with the loss of seven men. For nearly two months,
repeated efforts were made to extricate the Sphynx from her awkward
position: and after her masts, guns, and most of her stores and
machinery had been removed, and the hull itself buoyed up by a vast
number of empty casks, and some decked lighters (called camels),
she was at length brought off and towed into Portsmouth harbour on
the 3rd. of March. Her bottom had sustained considerable injury,
though much less than was expected from her having lain so long in
such a situation, and during several severe gales.
* * * * *
The VILLAGE OF CHALE lies at the foot of St. Catharine's Hill, and
comprises a considerable number of scattered cottages: none of them
however deserving a stranger's notice, except perhaps the Parsonage, and
the Abbey-farm-house; the latter covered with the most luxuriant ivy.
If the visitor be on his return to Newport, he will within three miles
of it pass GATCOMBE, a small village, and a first rate seat: exhibiting
altogether perhaps the most charming _inland_ scenery in the Isle of
Wight:--
"Sweet are its groves, and verdant are its fields."
The mansion is a large square edifice, extremely well-situated,--in
front a fine lawn falls with an easy slope, shaded by many noble oaks
and elms: and immediately behind rises a steep hill luxuriantly clothed
with hanging plantations. At a short distance from the house is a small
lake; and near the latter, the neat little parish-church, and the
Parsonage, both beautifully embosomed in wood.
* * * * *
THE ROAD TO FRESHWATER-GATE.
>> _From Chale to the celebrated Cliff's of Freshwater is about twelve
miles; the first eight of which are through an agricultural district,
presenting only so many agreeable pictures of rural life,--and of these
the principal are_ SHORWELL, NORTHCOURT, _and_ BRIXTON.
"A simple scene! yet hence Brittannia sees
Her solid grandeur rise."
The fact is, the greater part of the soil is so extremely fertile,
as to be employed in tillage and meadow, almost to the exclusion of
woods and coppice, which constitute the chief ornaments of a
landscape. We have, however, nearly the whole of the journey such a
charming view of the ocean, as to compensate for the deficiency of
sylvan beauties.
* * * * *
After passing a small church called KINGSTON, posted on a knoll, and
surrounded by a few trees which bespeak their bleak exposure, we reach
...
SHORWELL,
A considerable village, about four miles from Chale, and five from
Newport; it stands charmingly sheltered in a curve of the downs with a
southern aspect; has a pretty church; and boasts of the finest old
mansion in the island, called NORTHCOURT, built in the reign of James
I. This venerable pile has lately been thoroughly repaired: a necessary
operation by the bye that has stripped it for a few years of its
greatest ornament--the rich drapery of ivy which invested its lofty gray
walls and pinnacles: hills, clothed with hanging woods and plantations,
rise boldly around it; many of the oaks and pines, luxuriating in a
fertile soil and genial climate, are uncommonly fine: the grounds too
are embellished with a rustic temple, and a very elegant mausoleum to
the memory of Miss Bull, the daughter of a former owner,--the whole
scene indeed is replete with architectural and sylvan beauties. There
are in the neighbourhood two other ancient manorial residences, named
Westcourt and Woolverton, now converted into farm-houses: and the
cottages of Shorwell are remarkable for their neatness and comfortable
appearance, as well as for the abundant display of creepers and
flowering shrubs with which most of them are adorned.
Two miles further on we enter BRIXTON, a populous village in the heart
of a rich tract of cultivation: is one mile from the shore, and screened
from the north by a range of lofty downs. The Church is rather spacious,
and not unpicturesque; many of the cottages are neat, some few furnished
for lodgings: and there is a comfortable small inn. This place is
commonly called Brison, and one clergyman names it Brightstone.
MOTTISTONE succeeds: a pretty hamlet nearly shrouded in wood, with a
very picturesque church. On an elevated part of the farm are the remains
of some small druidical temple called LONGSTONE, which is a rude piece
of rock of a quadrangular figure, evidently erected by art, and rears
itself about twelve feet above the ground; near it another large stone
lies partly buried in the earth, of not less than eight feet long.
BROOK is the last village we pass till we reach Freshwater: much the
same character as the others: the Mansion-house, which is surrounded
with wood, being the only object to notice, besides the little church,
which we shall presently pass, posted solitarily on an eminence near the
foot of the down.
* * * * *