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[Illustration: JEBEL EL MAGARA.]
THE CARAVAN ROUTE
BETWEEN
EGYPT AND SYRIA
TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN
[Illustration]
WITH TWENTY-THREE FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS BY THE AUTHOR
London
CHATTO & WINDUS, PICCADILLY
1881
_All rights reserved._
PREFACE TO THE TRANSLATION.
The present work is by His Imperial Highness the Archduke Ludwig
Salvator of Austria, by whom also the accompanying sketches were drawn.
By his numerous travels and scientific labours, the name of this Prince
has become well known and highly appreciated among the geographers of
all nations; and only a short time ago His Imperial Highness was elected
an honorary member of the Royal Geographical Society, of whom there are
but eight others, in a total list of some 3500 Fellows.
His works of travel--comprising parts of America, Africa, and the
Mediterranean coasts--have also attracted so much attention, that their
translation into the English language seemed to be justified.
The list of these works, together with some details regarding the life
of their illustrious author, appeared in the translator's introduction
to the first work published in English;[1] and in referring to it the
translator of the present volume confidently expects a continuation of
the friendly reception accorded to "Levkosia, the Capital of Cyprus."
CHEVALIER DE HESSE-WARTEGG.
GERMAN ATHENAEUM CLUB,
_October 1881_.
[Footnote 1: Levkosia, the Capital of Cyprus, with an Introduction by
the Chevalier de Krapf-Liverhoff, Imp. and Roy. Austro-Hung. Ministerial
Councillor, etc. etc. London: Kegan Paul and Co. 1881.]
PREFACE.
Once more I had traced my way to Egypt to pass the winter there. Like
every European who makes a lengthened sojourn in that ancient but
renewed land, I was led to recall the great engineering and other
achievements accomplished within our own time, and also to consider
future projects of development for which the country seems to present so
wide a scope. A great deal has been heard of late on the subject of
improved communication between Egypt and Southern Syria. Proposals for
the construction of a new harbour at Jaffa, for a railway through the
valley of the Jordan, and for harbour works at Beyrout, exercised my
mind in succession; and during my frequent walks in the beautiful
Esbekieh my thoughts were more particularly occupied with the overland
route between Syria and Egypt. Since the wanderings of the Israelites
through the desert, and the flight of the child Jesus, of how many great
events have these countries been the scenes, and what various
recollections are awakened by their names!
Former travels had rendered me familiar with both Egypt and Syria, as
well as with the different lines of communication between them,
excepting the old caravan route over Wadi el Harish, the ancient Torrens
Egyptii. Bearing in mind the bad harbours and dangerous anchorages of
Southern Palestine, I speculated upon the feasibility of a railway
connection round the coast, and, in view of that object, resolved
personally to examine the ground.
Many obstacles, however, presented themselves to the execution of my
intention. One of these arose from the circumstance that, since the
opening of the Suez Canal, the greater part of the traffic between Syria
and Egypt is carried on by the short water route _via_ Jaffa and Port
Said, in consequence of which the old highway, formerly so frequented by
caravans, travellers, and pilgrims, is now deserted and forgotten. Even
the cattle-dealers now prefer to send their stock by steamer from the
great export harbour of Jaffa to Alexandria, so that only a few
camel-drivers are to be met with on the once favourite route. I
therefore found it more expedient to order a caravan of horses and mules
from Jaffa to meet me in El Kantara, which I fixed upon as my starting
point for the desert. The following pages contain a narrative of the
expedition, which was undertaken in March 1878, as noted down in the
tent on the evening of each day. My investigation convinced me that the
railway communication so often dreamed of is absolutely impracticable,
chiefly on account of the easily movable character of the sands of the
desert. The line would become completely buried beneath them after every
storm of any degree of violence, and could therefore only be kept clear
by constant labour and expense. Of all proposals for the attainment of
the object in question the most promising appeared to me to be the
formation of a good harbour at Beyrout, to which all the trade of Syria
might be directed by means of two railways, one along the rich coast of
Southern Syria, and the other to pass down the valley of the Jordan.
Beyrout offers greater advantages for the purpose than Jaffa, inasmuch
as the harbour works would be easier, and therefore less costly; and the
town itself, besides being far richer, already possesses established
communications with Damascus and the inland trade.
The accomplishment of this work seems to me so important in view of the
welfare and commercial development of Syria, that I cannot conclude
without expressing a wish that it may be soon undertaken under the
auspices of those Powers in whose interests it may be.
ZINDIS, NEAR TRIESTE,
_October 1879_.
CONTENTS.
PAGE
I. EL KANTARA 1
II. TO BIR EL NUS AND KATYA 5
III. FROM KATYA TO BIR EL ABD 11
IV. FROM BIR EL ABD TO BIR EL MAGARA 18
V. FROM BIR EL MAGARA TO EL HARISH 25
VI. EL HARISH 30
VII. FROM EL HARISH TO SHEIK EL ZVOYED 47
VIII. FROM SHEIK EL ZVOYED TO KHANYUNIS 52
IX. KHANYUNIS 57
X. FROM KHANYUNIS TO GAZA 65
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.[2]
1. JEBEL EL MAGARA _Frontispiece._
2. JEBEL ABOU ASSAB _To face page_ 6
3. EL GUJA " 8
4. RUMMAN " 9
5. KATYA " 10
6. SHEIK EL MZEYEN, IN KATYA " 12
7. LEHOCHOMU-MELLEHA " 18
8. JEBEL EL MAGARA (taken from El Brej) " 22
9. KOUBBA EL MAGARA " 23
10. JEBEL EL HALAL (taken from Ard el Murrah) " 26
11. WADI ABOU-SBEH " 28
12. EL HARISH " 30
13. THE BAZAAR OF EL HARISH " 40
14. EL HARISH (View on the Northern Side) " 42
15. KOUBBA OF NABI GASSER " 44
16. EL HARROUBA " 48
17. MELLEHA OF SHEIK EL ZVOYED " 50
18. OUR CAMP IN SHEIK EL ZVOYED " 52
19. SAGER EL EMIR " 54
20. RAFAH COLUMNS " 55
21. KALA OF KHANYUNIS " 58
22. NEIGHBOURHOOD OF GAZA " 66
23. ENTRANCE TO BAZAAR, GAZA " 68
[Footnote 2: All the illustrations were drawn by the author from nature,
reproduced on wood by Frederick Havranek, and engraved by F. Stolarz and
J. Jass of Prague.]
THE CARAVAN ROUTE
BETWEEN
EGYPT AND SYRIA.
I.
EL KANTARA.
One of the Suez Canal Company's tugs soon took us down the canal from
Ismailia to El Kantara (the bridge), where we were to meet our caravan.
Just as we were landing we observed the first few horses of the latter
crossing by the ferry which plies between the two sides of the canal.
The boat had to go over three times to get all our animals and luggage,
and we found it no easy work on the other side to strap up all our
things ready for the journey. Matters seldom go altogether smoothly on
the first day of a caravan expedition. At length a start was made, the
mules laden with our tents and luggage going on in front, and ourselves
bringing up the rear. The little hotel of El Kantara, with the few
patches of vegetation surrounding it, was the last sight we had of
civilised life. Following the telegraph posts, which mark the route from
Egypt to Syria, we then entered the rolling desert, and soon began to
enjoy that feeling of freedom which a boundless plain always inspires.
Only life on the sea, with all its wonderful charms, is to be compared
to a journey through the desert. In the midst of its vast and solitary
expanse the traveller feels himself overwhelmed, and his imagination
conjures up strange forms on the far horizon. The desert is to the Arab
what the sea is to the sailor; for both, their proper element has a
permanent and irresistible attraction. Old Abou Nabout, the leader of
our caravan, rode on quietly in front, his eyes gazing steadfastly
across the sandy plain, and dreams of his youth doubtless floated
through his mind as his horse threw up clouds of sand with his hoofs.
Our first ride soon came to a pause, for instead of encamping at two
hours' distance from El Kantara, as I had ordered, the moukri
(mule-driver) unpacked our tents in a small sandy valley which we
reached in half an hour only. Knowing from experience how necessary it
is to insist upon the execution of orders once issued, especially at
the commencement of a caravan journey, I made the moukri pack up again,
at which he was evidently not best pleased. We then continued our course
until we came to a shallow depression of the sandy ground, where I
directed our tents to be pitched. We travelled in a comparatively
comfortable manner, being furnished with two tents for sleeping, and a
third in which we took our meals. Besides these, we had a smaller tent
for a kitchen.
Everything was unpacked--our stores, the forage for our animals, and the
water casks. These had to pass a careful inspection by our old leader,
who repaired those which were leaky. The thirsty mules and donkeys were
taken back to El Kantara to drink, and the camels were driven to graze
in the neighbourhood, where were a few tamarisks, _Salsola echinus_,
_Portulaca_, and other plants of the desert.
Our tents were soon in order, and under their shelter we at last enjoyed
our rest. Before sunset we saw our animals return from El Kantara.
Horses and mules were then re-saddled and fastened together in a
straight line to a long rope. Their shadows, thrown by the moon upon the
sand, were extremely grotesque. We could now count them at our leisure.
There were seven horses, five mules, and three donkeys. The camels,
seven in number, were allowed to wander freely over the desert. To an
inexperienced traveller their huge forms on the vast plain, in a dark
night, have the appearance of ghastly phantoms. Our moukri and the
camel-drivers had lighted a big fire, and were now stretched out at full
length around it. We had four moukri, one of whom was a Persian named
Ahsen, and two camel-drivers, Daud and Hassan, both from El Harish. We
heard Abou Nabout's voice every now and then in the kitchen tent for
some little time, but complete peace soon reigned, and it was not long
before our little camp were fast asleep.
II.
TO BIR EL NUS AND KATYA.
The camels left the camp the first thing in the morning, that they might
have a good start of us, and by half-past seven o'clock the luggage was
disposed of, and we were again in the saddle. The traces of our sojourn
were still visible upon the moving sand, but would in all probability
become obliterated soon after our departure. It was a glorious day, and
we felt braced and invigorated by the pure air of the desert. Proceeding
through a uniform plain covered with purslane bushes, we saw rising in
the distance to our right, or south-east, the Jebel Abou Assab,
"Mountains of the father of the sugar-cane." From the more elevated
spots of the undulating surface we could see two steamers passing up the
canal, one of which was Austrian. The spectacle of these enormous
vessels, with their tall masts, majestically advancing to all appearance
through a sea of sand (for the canal itself was invisible), had a most
singular effect, and made us appreciate anew the wonderful character of
M. De Lesseps's grand undertaking. It was not long, however, before the
highest masts disappeared like phantoms behind the sandy waves through
which our path lay. After passing a small hillock on our right, called
Gerba--"water skin," we reached an undulating piece of ground commanding
a view of the mountains above referred to, and of the group of palms
known as Zaega--"the Beautiful." At the same time the scene was
agreeably relieved by one of those phenomena so common in the desert. A
beautiful mirage became gradually developed to our left, displaying the
reflection of a large lake, with its irregular outline, and even showing
with marvellous vividness the ruffled surface of the water. At some
distance we observed several Bedouins, and not far from us some of their
women, most of whom were engaged in leading black goats to their scanty
pasturage.
A little further on, we came to a small hollow where at one time a
little water was to be met with, but which is now quite dry. We then met
a caravan of people from Ramleh, in Syria, who were taking a few
wretched horses and mules to Egypt for sale, and subsequently two
Bedouins, who applied to us for the customary backshish.
[Illustration: JEBEL ABOU ASSAB.]
Monotonous as our route was, we were not without entertainment and
sources of interest. Soon after starting we were joined by a remarkably
lean dromedary, bearing the mails from El Harish. We learned from his
rider, who, as may be imagined, was glad enough of the company of a
caravan, that the post went each way once a week, and so kept up some
degree of communication between El Harish and the outer world. The ease
with which the fleet animal strode across the sandy ground was quite
delightful to witness. Now and again he got some distance ahead, and our
horses had some difficulty in overtaking him. The entomology, too, of
the desert did not escape our attention. We collected several specimens
of _Anthia_, _Asida_, and _Scarabaeus sacer_, the historical Scarabaeus of
the Egyptians.
After going slightly up hill for some distance further through the
wearisome sand, our eyes were gladdened by the sight of the group of
palms "El Guja"--"the snail," at the foot of the sand-hills, towards
which we turned that we might take our lunch beneath their grateful
shade. As one descends, a charming desert scene is presented by this
oasis, with the Jebel Abou Assab in the background. As soon as we
reached the spot, at half-past eleven o'clock, we pitched our little
tent, and, soothed by the gentle rustling of the breeze through the
leafy crowns of the tall and slender palms, enjoyed a delightful rest. I
afterwards made a sketch of a portion of the group (see illustration),
while Vives (one of our party) shot a couple of Calander larks and
captured a snake. Striking our tent at two o'clock, we went, before
continuing our journey, to look at the little well, which is lined with
palm-stems to keep out the sand. We found the water saline, as is usual
with desert springs.
Again, proceeding upward across the sandy ground, we obtained a view on
our right of the summit of Jebel Abou Assah. Further on, we reached an
extended range of sand-hills, the tops of which had, from the action of
the wind, become as angular as though they had been cut with a knife. In
every direction were to be seen scattered about carcasses and skeletons
of camels, the most recent of which our horses passed with great
reluctance. The only living creatures to be met with in this still
desert region are a few king-ravens, two of which came within range, but
we did not feel tempted to take a shot at them. To our right we passed,
at the foot of low sand-hills, another small group of palms, called by
the natives El Garabiyat--"the foreign woman," with an enclosure
made by the Bedouins for the storage of dates.
[Illustration: EL GUJA.]
[Illustration: RUMMAN.]
Our poor horses continued toiling along, alternately up and down hill,
across this chain of sand-hills, the sharp peaks of which stood out with
remarkable clearness against the dark blue sky. Here and there tufts of
grass, called Sabad, growing out between the sand, provide a welcome
fodder for the camels. Imposing in its wild solitude is the view
backward over the desert scene, with the palm group of
Rumman--"pomegranate," to the right (see illustration). Soon, however,
to our great joy, we came upon the palm group of Bir el Nus, signifying
"Half-way Well," with a tamarisk growing near. The well itself, the
water of which is slightly saline, is placed under a small group of
palms to the left. This little oasis, situated at three-fourths of the
distance from Kantara to Katya, is an inviting resting-place, but we
decided to go on; and, continuing our progress along the well-marked
road across the deep sandy ground, reached the small palm group of
Tahte--"subjacent," from which that of El Garif may be seen to the left
and that of Abou Raml to the right. These groups of verdure form a most
enlivening contrast to the dreary scene around.
From Tahte the ground gradually rises, and we soon saw over the sandy
undulations the countless palms of Katya. Upon this, our Bedouins, who
were quite exhausted from their toilsome journey through the sand and
the scorching sun, expatiated in glowing terms upon the refreshing shade
and abundant water awaiting us. We then went on through a plain and
small coppice into a kind of Melleha, or saline plain, where we could
see in the distance gleaming between the palm stems the white canvas of
our tents, which we at length reached just before dusk.
Our horses were much in need of rest after their laborious day's work,
and it may be imagined how welcome the flaming fire close to the tents
was to ourselves, and how heartily we enjoyed the evening meal which we
found ready laid for us, and the repose upon the soft outspread carpets.
All around us were encamped troops of Bedouins, the song of whose women
resounded far away in the stillness of the night.
[Illustration: KATYA.]
III.
FROM KATYA TO BIR EL ABD.
We awoke in sunny Katya, a delicious oasis of the most beautiful and
shady of palms! While the tents were being packed, that they might be
sent on to Bir el Abd, I reconnoitred the immediate neighbourhood. In
the middle of the zone of palms which encircle Katya like a girdle, is
an elevation covered with fragments of tiles, between which grow
numerous plants of _Sedum_, some of which are very thick-leaved. Near an
old tamarisk stands a very peculiar ruin of turret-like appearance,
called by the Arabs Burj--"castle." It is built of tiles and stones,
horizontally and vertically placed, and has a spiral staircase inside.
Not far off is a Koubba, containing a tomb, a defaced marble inscription
in Arabian, and two ancient columns, from one of which a garland hangs.
The palm-leaf stalks stuck in the ground outside indicate the sites of
various graves. Scattered about are several enclosures formed with
stalks of palm leaves, for the storage of ripe dates. The ground on
which the ruin stands is picturesquely surrounded with palms, of which
there are four principal groups, the total number of trees being perhaps
1500, for which the resident Bedouins have to pay the Government 1600
piastres a year.
In the first group of palms near the Koubba is the telegraph station, or
little house of the Arab watchmen who see to the maintenance of the
telegraph posts and wires. Behind a small hillock south of this house
there is another Koubba called Sheik el Mzeyen (see illustration), with
a doorstep of apparently old marble stone and an ornamental cupola. It
is surrounded by a great number of aloes, and contains a simple tomb.
Here, too, is a burial-place, with the graves indicated either by two
stones, a piece of palm stem, or a leaf stalk, and, in some cases, by a
fragment of camel bone. From this Koubba, the palm plantations extend
southward and form a kind of festoon with the Keteya group, which is
protected on the south-west by a hill of white sand.
[Illustration: SHEIK EL MZEYEN, IN KATYA.]
In the course of our ramble we met several Bedouins, who hailed us from
a distance with a friendly Marhaba--"Welcome!" With one or two of
them I exchanged a few words. Vives meanwhile shot a beautiful tufted
cuckoo (_Cuculus glandarius_), a splendid bird, which habitually flies
from the crown of one palm to that of another, and also a brace of
shrikes, or butcher birds (_Lanius minor_), and some black and white
chats (_Saxicola_).
After resting awhile under the shady palms, we resumed our journey
towards noon, passing on the way the large well of Katya. This well is
the great feature of the beautiful oasis. It is of large dimensions,
lined with tiles, and provided with a gutter or trench to conduct the
water drawn to the different watering-places. There we found a caravan
from Damascus, with a number of horses and mules in the charge of
several lank moukri, who were bound for Cairo. This herd, together with
the tall drivers, with their fine swarthy features, and the background
of gigantic palms, made up a strikingly harmonious and characteristic
picture, the effect of which was greatly enhanced by the fragrant aroma
of the desert, and the various colours it presented under the bright
rays of the morning sun.
Having no more time to spare, we resumed our way across the sandy plain,
and beautiful Katya soon vanished from our view like the fabric of a
vision. Here and there the uniformity and loneliness of the desert scene
were varied and enlivened by small groups of palms, beneath one of
which, after a long march, we fixed our midday station. The breeze
rustled gently through the crowns of the trees high over our heads,
while we lay on the ground gazing dreamily towards the yellowish horizon
clearly defined against the deep blue sky. All around reigned perfect
stillness. Now and then a party of Bedouin women, laden with
water-skins, passed us on the way to their tents, which probably were at
some hours' distance.
After a brief rest we again went forward through the sandy tract,
diversified only by occasional groups of palms, and after proceeding
some distance reached a gentle slope, which brought us to the sandy hill
of Bar Sat Man, half-way to Bir el Abd. From there the road alternately
rises and descends over bare sand ridges, and then passes down a
declivity overgrown with rushes and grass to Bir el Aafin--"the stinking
well," which contains but little water, and that almost putrid. In the
distance we saw several flocks of goats in the charge of Bedouins, who
inhabit the whole tract of country right up to the sea. We also met a
caravan with horses, asses, and mules, which some Kurds were taking to
Cairo, the leader himself--a man advanced in years, wearing a green
turban--riding at their head on a handsome bay.
After reaching a point from which we could see in the distance the Jebel
el Magara, a mountain spur of soft outline, we descended into a hollow.
To our right, between sandy ridges, lay Garif Bir el Abd, an extensive
Melleha, overgrown with rushes and purslane, and containing a small
quantity of rain-water. The action of this water on the soil produces an
excellent salt, which the Bedouins collect after evaporation at the
beginning of the summer. The smooth firm surface of the salty ground of
the Melleha, with bushes of purslane and _Caucalis_ on either side, is a
welcome change to both man and beast after so much laborious marching
through the bare sand. The purslane, when fresh and green, is much
relished by camels. In the Melleha we saw two laden with straw, with
their Bedouin keepers.
Proceeding on our way, we soon found ourselves again in deep sand, and a
little further came to a small Sepha. The road then rises gently over
another sandy ridge to the funnel-shaped hollow of Bir el Abd--"the
negro's well," where we were to stay the night. The place had also been
chosen by some Bedouins for their encampment. As it was not at all late
when we arrived, I climbed the sandy hill near, in order to make a
sketch of the chain of the Magara, then illuminated by the setting sun
(see illustration); and we afterwards went on to one of the cottages of
the telegraph watchmen, who came forward to give us a friendly welcome.
These men are Arabs, and live there with their families. They are
provided with a small store of wire and a few insulators to enable them
to keep the telegraph in working order. They are placed at intervals all
along the line to Syria, the first station being the one I mentioned at
Katya, each man having a separate section to superintend. This
arrangement is absolutely necessary in consequence of the damage
occasioned by the violent winds which sometimes sweep over the desert.
At Bir el Abd there are two men, each with a separate house, built of
tiles, and a flat roof of the stalks of palm leaves. The lonesome and
uneventful life of these men seems strange enough when one thinks of the
important news constantly flashing over their heads, for the
uninterrupted transmission of which they are chiefly responsible. We
conversed with them for some little time, and gathered that they would
be well contented with their lot but for their anxiety on account of
the frequent danger to which their dwellings are exposed from the
strong, sand-bearing wind, called Hampsin. Little indeed is requisite to
satisfy the frugal and pious Arab. Bidding them farewell, we returned to
the tents and retired to rest soon after our meal.
IV.
FROM BIR EL ABD TO BIR EL MAGARA.
By six o'clock the next morning all were stirring, and at seven we
struck our tents. Ascending from the hollow in which Bir el Abd is
situated, we came to an acclivity known as El Homda Bir el Abd,
overlooking the extended chain of Jebel el Magara in the distance. This
was followed by a flat piece of ground, upon which little was growing
beyond a number of plants of wormwood (_Artemisia monosperma_), and a
kind of prickly gray-leaved shrub with blue blossoms. Our path then
brought us to a Melleha with a few rushes, where the water was almost
entirely dried up, leaving a bed of salt. A little later we passed
across a plain of an almost uniform level, which appeared bounded to the
right by the high hills in the distance. On the same side is situated
Bir el Mabruka--"Well of the Mabruka," towards which we saw a party of
Bedouins making their way. This plain is succeeded by hilly ground,
distinguished as El Bassoul--"the onions," where white-blossomed broom
with thin leaves is met with, and, in a slight declivity, a few bushes.
From El Bassoul the road descends gently through a sandy tract, from
which to the left we saw the great Lehochomu Melleha, with a mirage
effect of such remarkable vividness as to make us think we had the open
sea before us (see illustration). At this part of our journey we met two
Bedouins, who greeted us with much ceremony. Here too, scattered about,
we found specimens of _Caucalis_. Our course then lay through drearily
uniform sandy ground, of somewhat broken configuration, and covered with
bushy vegetation, where we passed a telegraph post bearing the notice
that it was half-way between Bir el Abd and Bir el Magara. Here we
overtook our camels, which, as usual, had preceded us; but we sent them
on again, as we decided to pause for our midday meal. The wind being in
the south, the air was terribly oppressive, and I felt some apprehension
of the Hampsin. We accordingly pitched our tent in a hollow, overgrown
with rushes, where we were to some extent protected from the scorching
blasts. All our provisions were covered with the fine sand with which
the air was filled. We were passed by two travelling companies of
Bedouins, whom we had already seen on the road taking their scanty meal.
An old woman came up to us to ask for a drop of water. Glad as we should
have been to accommodate the poor creature, we dared not do so, lest we
should have had a visit from the whole troop of Bedouins on the same
errand, when our store would very soon have been exhausted. A youth of
eighteen, to whom we gave a pipeful of tobacco, also begged for a little
water, but we had to refuse him too.
[Illustration: LEHOCHOMU-MELLEHA.]
Being anxious to get on, we did not rest more than an hour. Continuing
to follow the telegraph posts, we came to a hilly, sandy district,
called El Brej, a most fatiguing section of the route, and much dreaded
by the Bedouins on account of the almost entire absence of water. To the
right is a small hollow where, by digging to some depth, just enough may
be found to moisten the sand, but it is so saline that it aggravates the
thirst instead of appeasing it. As we went on, the wind increased in
violence. We met a number of Bedouins greatly suffering from thirst and
heat, who asked us for a little water. It was most heartrending to see
young children toiling along, and to hear them entreating their parents
for a draught. Even now I can fancy I hear their piteous lamentations,
as one after the other they tried to drain a drop from the empty clay
bottles. One family I remember particularly; it consisted of an old man
and three little children, the two younger of whom were mounted upon an
emaciated old donkey, while the eldest, a thin, sunburnt lad, walked
with the old man behind. As the poor beast was struggling up a sandy
slope, its two little riders holding tight on, with their wan faces
fixed on the distant goal, it came down all at once with a deep groan.
The poor children rolled off terrified on to the sand. I shall never
forget the eyes of the old man as he came up panting. "Allah! Allah!" he
cried, with a supplicating glance heavenward. He then sat on the sand,
and took the children in his arms, leaving the ass to recover itself. We
were obliged to go on, and could do nothing for him but hope that his
prayer for help had been heard.
A little further we passed a spot where we were told a wandering Hindoo
had four years ago succumbed from exhaustion and thirst. As may be
imagined, the account of his sufferings was anything but cheering.
Shortly after, we came upon our kitchen-boy, a native of Cairo, who
could go no further. All our people had become so worn out that they had
gone forward on the baggage mules, leaving the poor lad, as the
humblest among them, to make his way on foot through the deep sand as
best he could. He had besought our moukri to allow him to ride, but in
vain; every one cared only for himself. I ordered some bread, meat, and
water to be given to him, and we then had to leave him to shift for
himself. It was not until after midnight that he came into camp.
We then descended slowly between roundish sand-ridges to the great
Melleha, El Mestebak--"Melleha of the wall-seat," where the deep sand
ceases. At a spot close to the entrance of the Melleha a little water
may usually be obtained by digging, but our camel-drivers, after trying
in vain to get some, had to content themselves with cooling their arms
and feet with the moist sand. This Melleha is of great length,
interrupted in one place only by a small saddle-shaped sand-hill, and is
bounded on both sides by ridges of sand. It gradually slopes into a
great flat plain with but one slight elevation in the centre, near which
lies the grave of a soldier of the time of Ibrahim Pacha, marked by
wooden pegs. This spot is also frequently used by the Bedouins as a
burial-place. Beyond this part the Melleha increases in width, and the
enclosing ridges become gradually lower, until a view is obtained
over those to the right of the extended Jebel el Magara. Only at the
time of heavy rainfalls does this Melleha contain much water. The sandy
tract which follows contains a great deal of white-blossomed broom,
which also grows further on in abundance.
[Illustration: JEBEL EL MAGARA (TAKEN FROM EL BREJ).]
[Illustration: KOUBBA EL MAGARA.]
The wind having gradually abated, a cool afternoon breeze sprang up from
the direction of the sea. "Riyeh Bahri! Riyeh Bahri" (sea breezes),
cried our camel-drivers, delighted. It was not long before the Koubba of
Magara was within sight. Cheered with the thought of the approaching end
of our journey, we pushed briskly on, and at five o'clock reached the
camp, which had been pitched close to Bir el Magara--"Well of the
visit," in a hollow entirely surrounded by sand-hills, similar to that
of Bir el Abd.
Situated upon rising ground at a short distance from the spot is the
half ruinous Koubba of the Sheik Suleiman, built about sixty years ago
of fossiliferous limestone, in which shells of _Cardium edule_ are
particularly prominent. On the side next to the sea is a pointed arch.
In the interior is a simple tomb covered with a linen cloth, an
inscription in the recess of the outer window, a green flag, and two
white bannerets. There are two papers bearing inscriptions affixed to
the wall, which is also painted in many places with red letters and
several crosses.
Not far from the Koubba is the cottage occupied by the telegraph people,
natives of Cairo, who showed themselves very friendly, and gave us some
coffee, which a handsome boy handed round. After staying some little
time with them we returned to our tents, where we found a good dinner
ready for us.
At a very late hour, the kitchen-boy whom we had left on the road came
into camp, accompanied by two Persian knife-grinders, with a young
Dervish from Eastern Asia. The Dervish wore long hair, and was dressed
in a garment entirely made up of patches of cloth of various colours.
These people had travelled with our caravan for two days, each carrying
the heavy grindstone in turns. It had often much amused us to watch the
care of the young Dervish, despite his fatigue, not to part with his
alms bag, attached to the end of a long staff, when taking the stone
upon his strong shoulders.
V.
FROM BIR EL MAGARA TO EL HARISH.
At a quarter past seven the next morning, we took our departure from Bir
el Magara and ascended the gently-rising ground by which it is enclosed.
Leaving to our left a large Melleha, called El Berdovil, which at high
tides is filled with sea water, we followed a smaller one to our right,
and came into a sandy, undulating, shrubby, and generally uniform tract
of ground, which, after many hours' ride, brought us to a valley or
Melleha-bottom, called Garif el Jemel--"Garif of the camel," lying
between ridges of steep hills. Here we found the whole landscape in all
the beauty of the early year, with the Bedouins' herds grazing upon the
fresh green grass, which was covered with primroses and other spring
flowers. On ascending the ridge to the right we enjoyed a most extensive
view. To the left lay the Melleha, the broad sea Bahr el Kebir, as the
Bedouins call it, the invigorating breezes of which reached us, and the
uniform plain, with the mountains of El Magara and El Halal. We lunched
on the ridge, feasting our eyes once more upon the distant sea, which we
had not seen for so long. A Bedouin came and sat by us without speaking
a word. We gave him a piece of bread, which, I suppose, satisfied him,
as he then left us and went down the hill.
It was soon time for us, too, to descend into the valley and resume our
course. Still following the telegraph posts through a uniformly
undulating plain, overgrown with shrubs, we reached a long Melleha
enclosed by low hills, beyond which are the so-called "steps" of Adam
Abou Zeit, the hero of Arabian legend, which are kept marked in the
moving sand by passing Bedouins. A heap of stones near indicates the
spot where Abou Zeit is said to have slain a Berdovil. On the left is a
ruined castle, built of shelly marlstone, which, according to Arabian
tradition, once belonged to the Berdovil in question. Thus does the
imagination of these children of the desert clothe even these desolate
places of the earth with interest, and connect ruins of diverse origin
with the heroes of their traditions. A step or two further are similar
ruins, known as Berj el Hashish--"the grass tracts," alleged by the
Arabs to be the remains of an old town. The great Melleha of Berdovil
extends along the foot of these ruins, and attains a considerable width
in the centre. We there saw a complete camel-skeleton, apparently of
somewhat recent date, which our horses scented from a distance, and took
care to keep a good way off in passing.
On both sides of the road, which here runs along a small ridge (see
illustration), we saw several herds of cattle and troops of Bedouins.
Among them were two children trying in vain to recapture a stray camel.
It was very amusing to watch them as they alternately employed stratagem
and agility in order to effect their object.
[Illustration: JEBEL EL HALAL (TAKEN FROM ARD EL MURRAH).]
Going on we passed Nahle Abou Sheh--"the palms of Abou Sheh," and, in a
declivity, several small palm groups. These, together with the
asphodels, which literally whiten the ground, indicate the neighbourhood
of the sea. The large picturesque group, Etmil et te Jaber, is named
after a young man, belonging to a distinguished family, by whom they
were planted. The valley, our course through which I have described, is
of great length, and opens out widely on each side. It contains several
groves of palms in most picturesque groups, three of the principal of
which are situated in a small valley to the left.
Beyond, the road leads, between roundish ridges of moving sand, through
the most complete desert, utterly desolate and bare, with scarcely a
bush to be seen. These ridges form a continuous line, with dales and
hollows between them. There is nothing to disturb the sublime stillness
of the scene. Not a creature is visible, and not a sound heard excepting
that of the distant breakers.
Still keeping to the telegraph posts, we soon came within sight of the
castle of El Harish, the last outpost eastward of the Egyptian
Government. As we advanced over ridges and then over heaps of ruins, the
view of the castle became more and more distinct, and at length we could
overlook the palm-wood towards the sea, the beauty and shade of which
had been so frequently enlarged upon by the camel-drivers. There can
indeed be no more attractive picture for the mind of an Arab to dwell
upon, when toiling over shifting sands under a scorching sun, than that
of a plantation of palms, with abundant supply of water, on the shores
of an invigorating sea!
[Illustration: WADI ABOU-SBEH.]
As we approached El Harish, a row of men gathered outside the town wall.
After saluting them we proceeded to our tents at the south-east end
of the town. Having reached them we were congratulated by Abou Nabout
upon having safely accomplished our journey across the desert.
After dinner we were visited by some of the authorities, who were
extremely cordial. As usual we offered them coffee and cigars. Their
stay, however, was but short, as they rightly presumed that we needed
repose.
VI.
EL HARISH.
El Harish is the town of the desert which forms the most advanced post
of the Khedive in the direction of Turkish territory, and, as it
possesses many remarkable features, is worthy of a detailed description.
As the point of convergence of the caravan routes, the entire life of
the place is bound up with the caravan traffic, carried on by the
resident population with their camels; it is, in a word, a place of
camel-keepers. It is situated at about two miles from the sea, on the
outskirts of the desert, the daily advancing sands of which threaten in
time to cover a considerable portion of the town, and indeed have
already overwhelmed many houses in the south-west quarter of it.
The climate is extremely salubrious. Snow is never to be seen; but there
are frequent hailstorms and heavy falls of rain, particularly in
February. The temperature is highest immediately after the Hampsin,
that is, at the beginning of the summer, and the very hot season lasts
four months. The strongest wind is the Hampsin, which prevails for fifty
days, and is here particularly disagreeable from the quantity of sand
which it brings.
[Illustration: EL HARISH.]
The population numbers 2800 souls, exclusive of the Bedouins living in
the neighbourhood. With scarcely an exception, the people are
Mussulmans, and extremely fanatical; some portion of them are of Turkish
origin, but none speak Arabic. There are but eight Christians in the
place--three of whom are women. The garrison consists of sixty soldiers,
including ten artillery-men, commanded by the governor of the fortress,
whose especial task it is to restrain the excesses of the Bedouin
tribes. The latter have a great dread of the military, as immediately a
Sheik lays himself open to suspicion he is arrested and despatched to
Cairo. Their conduct has consequently of late been very circumspect,
particularly since their last outbreak, which was severely punished.
There are no rich people in Harish, the richest possessing at the most
not more than twenty camels; many persons are, on the contrary, so poor
as to be forced to procure their camels on credit. Should an animal
come to grief under such circumstances, the poor debtor is a ruined man.
Altogether there are 500 camels in the place--60 of which are for the
use of the soldiers; also 60 hayin or dromedaries, one only of which is
assigned to them. There is an almost incredible difference between the
capabilities of the camel and the dromedary, as much as between those of
the English draught-horse and race-horse. An idea of the extraordinary
fleetness of dromedaries may be gathered from the fact that there are
several in Harish who can run easily in one day from Harish to Kantara.
A very serviceable animal, suitable either for draught purposes or for
running, results from a cross between the dromedary and camel.
There are but ten horses in Harish; but, on the other hand, no less than
150 asses, of the black or black-and-white-spotted Bedouin race; about
200 goats, 100 sheep, and 35 cows. The sheep and cows are mostly from
Syria. Pigeons and fowls are largely kept, but only a few turkeys, and
still fewer ducks. Dogs are also not numerous.
The game of the district comprises quails (during the migratory season),
hares, and gazelles. The last named are caught by the Bedouins when
young, at some distance in the interior, but frequently die when their
horns begin to grow. They are transported long distances, without
injury, in a basket of palm leaves, the small feet being tucked up under
the belly, and the head only peering out of the basket, which of course
is firmly fastened with cord.
Fish abound in the neighbouring sea, and are caught by moonlight, with a
bell-shaped net only, draw-nets being not used here. In Harish itself
there are not more than fifteen or twenty persons who follow fishery as
a calling. There are, however, many fishermen engaged in the preparation
of salt fish, who come over from Damietta and live behind the Berdovil.
In the same way they fish the Melleha, referred to above, in which are a
large number of mullet. The fishing-ground has been rented from the
Government by an Arab, who is even thinking of setting up a boat.
Hitherto the fishermen have always come here from Port Said, along the
shore, on foot.
The palm trees of Harish, of which there are about 6000, are the
principal basis of the local product. No impost whatever is paid for
them to the Government, the concession being presumably accorded to the
population, in consideration of their being inhabitants of a frontier
station. No wine is made from the palms of Harish, the sap being
principally used for the preparation of sugar. The black and red dates
are retained for home consumption, while the yellow, as also the Agua
dates (pounded date cakes), are exported in sacks. The fruit of the
place consists principally of figs and grapes, the latter being chiefly
grown in the western portion of the district. For the most part they are
white table grapes, but we heard that the under health officer of Harish
was attempting to make wine from some of them. Melons are also
extensively cultivated here, more particularly in Wadi, and are
preserved for some time by hanging. The vegetables include tomatoes,
garlic, onions, and carrots; barley, wheat, maize, and small sweet
vetches are also grown, more or less.
Industrial pursuits are almost entirely neglected. A few articles of
clothing, etc., are made for actual home use, but nothing more. These
comprise, for instance, winter jackets of sheepskins (made with the
bare skin outside, the hair being worn next the body); camel's-hair
sacks; close-fitting camel's-hair caps (a very warm and practical
head-gear, and consequently worn by the military and officials under
their fez); and black and striped cloaks of sheep's wool, such as are
seen in Syria.
The commerce of the place is insignificant, and what there is consists
chiefly of a transit trade, for, being really little more than a large
station of camel-keepers, Harish has no trade of its own. It has,
therefore, much suffered from the construction of the Suez Canal, since
which, almost the entire trade between the south of Syria and Egypt goes
by water, leaving but a small portion for the once famous caravan route.
From Harish itself no goods whatever are exported by land, excepting,
occasionally, dates for Gaza. There are no boats at Harish, as the shore
is bad and full of reefs. Corn and fruit often come by ship from Jaffa,
and sometimes timber for building purposes, but this does not happen
very often, as most of the timber required at Harish is brought from
Wadi. Altogether, ships do not come more than fifteen or sixteen times
in the year, when they are either laden as described, or simply
ballasted, and return with cargoes of melons, dates, and Agua dates.
Sometimes shipwrecks occur on these inhospitable coasts. As has been
already mentioned, the postal service between Harish and the outer world
is provided for by a weekly mail to Kantara, by means of a dromedary.
I will now give some description of the place itself. Harish lies along
the side of an undulating hill fronting the sea, at the foot of the
large quadrangular castle, a substantial building of calcareous
marlstone. The only entrance to the castle is by a great gate opening
from the town, and, therefore, upon the side next the sea. On either
side of the gate is a round tower, with a marble pillar--the capital of
which is inverted--built into the stone. Above are five marble tablets
with inscriptions. A sixth tablet stands below the loophole, from which
the standard-bearer (whose grave will be mentioned presently) was killed
by the French. From the lower inscription we learn that the castle is
327 years old, and was built by the Sultan Suleiman. The upper tablets
bear the name of the Sultan Selim. A gate with iron mountings leads into
the T-shaped entrance-hall, in the centre of which is an oval cupola,
and on either side slightly pointed arches. At the entrance is a
circular arch, and a similar one at the opposite end of the hall, in
which a lamp is suspended, and where there are three marble steps
leading up to the mosque. This is a very simple edifice, covered by a
flat roof of palm-leaf stalks, and containing two rows of four pointed
arches, with four ancient marble pillars built into the stone. To the
left of the Mihrab, which has two marble pillars, and is also
distinguished by simplicity, is a mural inscription. The Mem Ber is of
the same character, and is constructed of red and green painted wood.
Four men are set apart for the service of the mosque, one only of whom
is a priest.
Passing out through a side-door to the left, we found, opposite to the
Jama, an old Egyptian sarcophagus of black granite, now used as a water
trough, covered within and without with very small hieroglyphics.
The interior of the fortress has a very deserted air. We found there
dilapidated clay houses for the soldiers, and, somewhat to the side, the
divan of the governor, which consists of a hall with two circular
arches, the interior containing low sofas covered with rich carpets.
There we waited upon the governor, who, according to invariable custom,
ordered coffee to be served. He then took us over the armoury, in which
was a small field-piece for mounting on camels, and afterwards conducted
us over the fortress. The entire castle, as already mentioned, forms a
quadrangle, and has four hexagonal towers, with embrasures, and a few
bronze cannons. A gallery in a ruinous condition runs round the entire
length of the walls, with a parapet of some six feet in height and
embrasures. The towers of the castle command an extensive view of the
desert, with the distant mountain chains of El Halal and El Magara in
the south-east, the magnificent palm plantation towards the sea, and the
town of Harish itself spread out below.