CHAPTER XXXV.

FATHĪPOOR SICRI AND COLONEL GARDNER.

Pilgrimage of Akbar Shāh to Fathīpoor Sicri—Shaikh Selīm

Cheestie—The Jodh Baā’ī—Birth of Selim—The Tomb of the

Saint—The Gateway—A Tradition—The Temple of Magic—The

Zenāna—The Pachīsī Board—The Mint—Akbārābādee Rupees and Gold

Mohurs—The Elephant Minār—A Child destroyed by a Wolf—Tomb of

the Jodh Bā’ī—Agra built by Akbar—Sketches of remarkable Living

Characters in India—Legality of a Marriage between a Christian

and one of the Faithful—Colonel Gardner’s Letter—Letter

of Colonel Tod—Insult offered by Holkar—Colonel Gardner’s

Marriage—Tomb of Colonel Hessing—Cure of Influenza within the

Four Walls—Death in a Steam-Bath.

1835, _March_.—The wedding having been deferred for a short time, I took

the opportunity of returning dāk to Agra, having promised Colonel Gardner

to be at Khāsgunge again in time to witness the ceremony. All this time

my pretty pinnace had been awaiting my arrival. I determined to send

her back to Allahabad with the cook-boat, and she sailed immediately. I

also sent back the carriage and horses, keeping the buggy, Bokharu, the

grey and black horse, to accompany me to Khāsgunge. The dāk trip gave

me a severe cough and cold, and on my reaching Agra I was little fit

for exertion. However, a party was proposed to visit Fathīpoor Sicri,

formerly the residence of Akbar Shāh; my curiosity prevailed, and,

notwithstanding my illness, I consented to accompany them.

_11th._—Chār vajr, barī fajr, _i.e._ four o’clock A.M., I was ready

to start: the party of four dwindled to two, the others being laid up

with influenza, and unable to quit their beds. My relative, Mr. D⸺,

drove me over: tents and provisions had been sent on before. In spite

of my illness I was delighted with Fathīpoor Sicri. The gateway, with

its superb flight of steps, is a beautiful object; it is built on a

fine commanding site. The buildings, which are very extensive, are on

high ground; and from an immense quarry on the spot, they daily convey

quantities of stone to all parts of India. The Fort of Agra is built of

this stone.

Before I say more of the place, I must relate an anecdote of the founder.

Akbar Shāh was extremely unhappy and deeply grieved at being childless.

Hearing of the fame of a fakīr who lived at Fathīpoor Sicri, and of the

wonderful birth of a child to a couple of poor manufacturers of pottery

ware, who lived at that place, from the power of the prayers of the holy

man: hearing all this, he determined to make a pilgrimage to Fathīpoor;

_àpropos_, the house of the kumhār (potter) and his descendants are still

shown to visitors. Akbar commenced his hājī (pilgrimage), but, like all

the race of Timur, being rather lame, he found two miles a day (one kos)

as much as he could accomplish; therefore, at every day’s resting-place

he ordered a kos minār to be erected, which now serve as mile-stones. Two

of these minārs I saw between Agra and Secundra on my visit to his tomb,

as before-mentioned. On his arrival at Sicri, he consulted the holy man

Shāh Selīm Cheestie; and, in pursuance of his advice, the Empress, the

Jodh Bā’ī, was brought to live at Fathīpoor. She was the daughter of Oodi

Sing of Jodhpoor. Her zenāna, inclosed within four walls, is still to be

seen. The prayers of the holy man were heard, and the Jodh Bā’ī presented

Akbar with a son, who, in honour of _the saint, I suppose_, was called

Selīm, which name was afterwards almost forgotten in the appellation of

Jahāngeer, the Conqueror of the World. In the Fort of Agra there are

still the remains of the Selīm Ghar built by Akbar.

The Emperor, charmed at the birth of a son, bestowed lands and showered

rupees upon the sagacious fakīr; and the greatest ornament of the place

is,

THE TOMB OF SHAIKH SELĪM CHEESTIE.

This beautiful mausoleum, in the centre of the quadrangle, is still in a

state of the most perfect preservation; it is of white marble; the open

work of the screen is of the most exquisite workmanship. The descendants

of the shaikh still live at Sicri, and gain large sums by showing the

tomb of the holy man, whose name is held in the highest veneration.

The coffin, containing the mortal remains of the saint, is within the

building, and is covered with a large pall of silk and brocade. When

speaking of the Shaikh they continually denominated him Shāh Selīm

Cheestie. The annexed sketch will give an idea of the outline of the

tomb, and of the beauty of the fretwork of its walls of marble.

[Illustration: THE TOMB OF SHAIKH SELIM CHEESTIE.

‎‏فاني پارکس‏‎]

In 1570, Akbar founded Fathīpoor Sicri, the City of Victory. Colonel

Sleeman mentions, “The quadrangle which contains the mosque on the west

side, and the tomb of the old hermit in the centre, was completed in

the year 1578, six years before his death; and is, perhaps, one of the

finest in the world. It is five hundred and seventy-five feet square, and

surrounded by a high wall, with a magnificent cloister all around within.

On the outside is a magnificent gateway, at the top of a noble flight of

steps, twenty-four feet high. The whole gateway is one hundred and twenty

feet in height, and the same in breadth, and presents beyond the wall

five sides of an octagon, of which the front face is eighty feet wide:

the arch in the centre of this space is sixty feet high by forty wide. On

the right side of the entrance is engraven on stone, in large letters,

standing out in bas relief, the following passage in Arabic: ‘Jesus, on

whom be peace, has said, The world is merely a bridge; you are to pass

over it, and not to build your dwellings upon it.’

“Where this saying of Christ is to be found, I know not, nor has any

Muhammadan yet been able to tell me; but the quoting of such a passage

in such a place is a proof of the absence of all bigotry on the part of

Akbar.”

The mosque within the quadrangle was finished in 1576, and Akbar’s three

sons were born in the houses of the saint.

A very intelligent person, by name Bisharut Ali, who acted as cicerone,

was much pleased to show off the place, and relate his wonderful stories.

Amongst other traditions, he told me that, “in former times, Fathīpoor

Sicri was infested with wild beasts, and the people who came to see

the saint marvelled he was not afraid to live in such a wilderness;

the next day, they found a lion and a wolf at the holy man’s door; the

lion walking up and down and keeping guard, and the wolf brushing away

the dust and dirt before the habitation of the saint”—with his tail,

I suppose, for they say nothing of a broom. This Bisharut Ali is a

pensioner on three rupees eight ānās a month; his profile, and that of

Mulka Begam’s, who is a descendant of Akbar’s, were so much alike, that

I could not help asking him if he were of Selīm Cheestie’s family? He

replied, “No; my ancestor was the teacher (oostād) of the saint!”

There is much to visit at this place: the mosque, the numerous tombs, and

also a very curious building, in which the council of the nation was held.

The place that most interested my imagination was the Temple of Magic,

in which Akbar used to study. How much the Emperor, who was greatly

addicted to the art, must have been interested in casting the nativity

of the _sons of his pilgrimage_, and in the important task of selecting

fortunate names!

On the birth of the heir, the City of Victory must have resounded with

the roar of cannon, in honour of the happy event; even the poorest

Musulmān testifies his rejoicing on such an occasion by firing off a

matchlock; but should the offspring be a girl, the cannon is silent,

and no matchlocks are in requisition. There are five different modes of

naming children, two of which are as follow:—

Sometimes the infant obtains the name of some one of the family, as that

of the parent’s father, (it is not customary among Musulmāns to give

their own names to their children,) the grandfather, great-grandfather,

or the tutelary saint venerated in the family; hence the name of Selīm

was given to the first-born of the Emperor.

“Amongst some people it is customary to choose a name from among those

that begin with the same letter which is found at the commencement or

termination of the name of the planet in whose hour the child is born.

In order to ascertain this, it is requisite to consult the horoscope of

nativity[141].” The planets, seven in number,—namely, the Sun, Venus,

Mercury, the Moon, Saturn, Jupiter, and Mars, are supposed to preside

over the twenty-four hours of the day and night, and to exert many

favourable and unfavourable influences on the human race. With what

anxiety must the great magician Akbar have consulted the horoscope, to

ascertain under the reign of what particular planet his son was born!

With what care he must have cast his nativity, and thereby predicted his

future destiny!

The ladies of the zenāna were not only followers of the prophet, but

Rajpūtnees were admitted, Akbar considering it good policy to marry

the daughter of a subjugated Hindoo prince. Beauty, also, was and is

sufficient to give the possessor a chance of gaining the rank of Begam. I

went over the zenāna with much interest, and thought of the innumerable

ceremonies that must have been observed within its walls.

Particular rites take place on the fortieth day after the birth of a

child, which is esteemed an important festival; the mother is then

allowed to touch the kurān, and enter the masjid. In fancy, I beheld the

Jodh Bā’ī taken out into the air, with the “child of the pilgrimage” in

her arms, that she might count a few stars; after which, according to

Muhammadan custom, her attendants would shoot off two arrows into the air.

With what care the Emperor must have selected verses from the kurān, to

engrave in the Arabic character upon tablets, called tawīzī; destined to

adorn the person of the infant prince, and to guard him as a spell! These

tablets, which are of gold or silver, are strung on a long cord of gold

thread, and suspended over one shoulder of a child, crossing his body,

and hanging down on the other side below the hip.

The pachīsī-board gives one a glimpse of the manner in which the great

Akbar spent his time amongst his lady-loves; the pachīsī-board is in an

open court of the zenāna; the squares of the board are formed of coloured

marbles, and on so large a scale, that women were used as _counters_.

Imagine the great Akbar playing at pachīsī with eight cowries, and

sixteen ladies of the zenāna squatting down on the squares of the board

as counters! Jīta rako Akbar!

The game is played with eight cowries, or with three long narrow dice,

and so named from the highest throw, which is twenty-five. The shape of

the board is a cross, covered with squares, alternately of a different

colour. The natives have them made of red and purple cloth, which can be

folded up, and easily carried about; they are passionately fond of this

game, and play it at the Dewālī. The counters are sixteen in number, in

sets of four, each set of a different colour.

Adjoining the temple of the magician is the anannās-i-ghur, built in the

shape of a pine-apple (anannās), as the natives aver.

The taksāl (the mint) is at this place; in it rupees were first coined;

unlike the circular rupees of the present day, those coined by Akbar are

square; he also coined square gold mohurs, and eight ānā pieces of the

same form. The square rupee, if _without a blemish_, is reckoned of great

value; it is used in conjuring the truth out of thieves, who are much

afraid of it, and often confess the truth from a belief in its virtue.

If a rich native can obtain one of Akbar’s rupees, or, what is better, an

akbārābādee gold mohur, he puts it away with his hoard of riches, firmly

believing that by its virtue robbers will be prevented from discovering

his gold. There is an old saying, “To get possession of the wealth

without disturbing the snake that guards it[142].” The square rupee

appears to act chaukidār as well as the snake. An akbārābādee rupee and

an eight ānā piece were procured at Sicri, and added to my museum. The

mint has been dug up in every direction by treasure-hunters.

In the plate entitled “Superstitions of the Natives,” No. 5 represents

the rupee, and No. 4 the eight ānā piece; No. 7 is an akbārābādee gold

mohur, which I purchased at Allahabad. The manner in which these coins

are used for the detection of theft has been fully explained in the

“Trial by Rice,” page 40.

There is a remarkable entrance called the Elephant Gate, below which is

the Elephant Minār, to which we walked by moonlight; on the top of this

minār Akbar used to sit; game, of all descriptions, was driven towards

it from the surrounding country, which the Emperor from that spot could

shoot at his ease. “When death approaches the game, it goes towards the

sportsman[143].” This tower is studded with elephants’ tusks, carved in

white stone.

The people showed me the skin of a leopard that was shot a year ago

amongst the ruins. I requested my companion during this ramble to take a

stick, for fear of the wolves, who, the week before, had torn a native

child to pieces under the walls; the bones and bangles of the poor child

had been brought to my companion, who was the magistrate.

The tomb of the Jhod Bā’ī, who was a Rajpootnee daughter of the Hindoo

chief of Jhodpore, by tradition beautiful and amiable, is still to be

seen on the Chand-maree, the artillery practice ground, a few miles from

Fathīpoor Sicri. It was in ruins, but still you could trace its form

and dome. Some artillery officers, out of pure idleness and ignorance,

I suppose, about a year ago, blew up the dome of this tomb by way of

getting rid of some damaged powder! The sacrilege of destroying the tomb

of the mother of Jahāngeer, and the wife of Akbar Shāh!

The whole of the buildings at Sicri were built by Akbar; at this place he

resided, and held his court: it is most interesting to wander over the

ruins.

In the “Rambles of an Indian Official” it is mentioned,—“Sheikh Saleem

had, he declared, gone more than twenty times on pilgrimage to the tomb

of the holy prophet; and was not much pleased to have his repose so much

disturbed by all the noise and bustle of the imperial court. At last,

Akbar wanted to surround the hill by regular fortifications; and the

sheikh could stand it no longer. ‘Either you or I must leave this hill,’

said he to the Emperor; ‘if the efficacy of my prayers is no longer to be

relied upon, let me depart in peace!’ ‘If it be _your Majesty’s_ will,’

replied the Emperor, ‘that one of us should go, let it be your slave, I

pray.’ The old story: there is nothing like relying upon the efficacy of

our prayers, say the priests—nothing like relying upon that of our sharp

swords, say the soldiers; and as nations advance from barbarism, they

generally contrive to divide between them the surplus produce of the land

and labour of society. The old hermit consented to remain, and pointed

out Agra as a place which he thought would answer the Emperor’s purpose

extremely well! Agra—then an unpeopled waste—soon became a city, and

Futtehpore Sicri was deserted.”

The influenza having attacked our party, and my having fallen ill from

being drenched in a severe storm, on my return to Agra, which increased

the cough and cold from which I was suffering, prevented our prosecuting

the tour we had planned for visiting Deeg, Burtpore, and other remarkable

places.

_Extract from “the Asiatic Journal” of Oct. 1844._

“SKETCHES OF REMARKABLE LIVING CHARACTERS IN INDIA.”

No. 1.—COLONEL GARDNER.—THE BEGAM SUMROO.

“A few years ago India presented a wide field for adventure:

the distracted state of the country, the ambitious projects and

conflicting interests of native princes, were highly favourable

circumstances to those who brought with them a competent

knowledge of the art of war, and of military discipline;

and who preferred a wild, erratic, roving life, amongst the

children of the soil, to the regular service of the India

Company. There are two individuals still living in the Bengal

Presidency, and occupying a distinguished, though singular

position in society, whose eventful career, if circumstantially

related, could not fail to prove highly interesting. The

general outlines of the history of the Begam Sumroo, and of

Colonel Gardner, of Khāsgunge, are known to every person who

has visited the theatre of their exploits, but very few are

acquainted with the details; for such is the shifting nature

of Anglo-Indian society, that it is impossible to gain more

than the passing information of the day, in places rendered

memorable from circumstances of universal notoriety, but of

which nobody can give the particulars.

“Some apology ought, perhaps, to be made for associating the

name of so gallant and highly respected an officer as Colonel

Gardner with that of the Begam, and her still more worthless

husband; but as those readers of the ‘Asiatic Journal,’ who

have not been in India, are puzzled by the announcement of

marriages, or projected marriages, of the daughters of this

gentleman with the nephews of the King of Delhi, an explanation

of the circumstances which have produced these apparently

extraordinary alliances will doubtless prove acceptable. The

writer of these pages does not pretend to know more of Colonel

Gardner than the tongue of rumour could tell, or a casual

meeting in society could afford; but so remarkable a person

naturally made a strong impression, and the anecdotes extant

concerning him were too singular to be easily forgotten.

Colonel Gardner’s tall, commanding figure, soldier-like

countenance, and military air, render his appearance very

striking. When at his own residence, and associating with

natives, it is said that he adopts the Asiatic costume; but

while visiting a large military station, in company with the

Resident of Lucnow, he wore a blue surtout, resembling the

undress uniform of the British army, but profusely ornamented

with silk lace.

“Colonel Gardner, who is a connexion of the noble family

bearing that name, came out to India in the King’s service,

which he soon afterwards quitted; the cause of his resignation

is variously related; in the absence of an authentic account,

it would, perhaps, be wrong to give sanction to any one of

the reports afloat concerning it. At this period, it was

impossible to foresee that the tide of fortune would bring

the British Government of India into actual warfare with the

sovereigns of provinces so far beyond the frontier, that human

ambition dared not contemplate their subjugation. Many loyal

men were, therefore, induced to follow the banners of native

princes, under the expectation that they never could be called

upon to bear arms against their own country; but fate decreed

it otherwise, and, in the Mahratta war, those officers who

had enlisted in Holkar’s service, found themselves in a very

awkward predicament; especially, as they were not permitted a

choice, or even allowed to remain neutral, their new masters

endeavouring to force them, upon pain of death, to commit

treason to the land of their birth by fighting in the ranks of

a hostile force.

“In some of the native courts, the English were immediately

put to death upon the approach of the enemy, or on the

slightest suspicion of their fidelity. Upon more than one

occasion, Colonel Gardner, who, independent of his military

skill, possessed a thorough knowledge of the native character,

and very considerable talent, penetrated the designs of his

employers, and withdrew in time from meditated treachery; but

his escape from Holkar was of the most hazardous description,

not inferior in picturesque incident and personal jeopardy

to that of the renowned Dugald Dalgetty, who was not more

successful in all lawful strategy than the subject of this too

brief memoir. Anxious to secure the services of so efficient

an officer, after all fair means had failed, Holkar tied

his prisoner to a gun, and threatened him with immediate

destruction, should he persist in refusing to take the field

with his army. The Colonel remained staunch, and, perhaps in

the hope of tiring him out, the execution was suspended, and

he was placed under a guard, who had orders never to quit

him for a single instant. Walking one day along the edge of

a bank, leading by a precipitous descent to a river, Colonel

Gardner suddenly determined to make a bold effort to escape,

and perceiving a place fitted to his purpose, he shouted out

‘Bismillah!’ (‘in the name of God,’) and flung himself down

an abyss some forty or fifty feet deep. None were inclined to

follow him; but the guns were fired and an alarm sounded in

the town. He recovered his feet, and, making for the river,

plunged into it. After swimming for some distance, finding that

his pursuers gained upon him, he took shelter in a friendly

covert, and, with merely his mouth above the water, waited

until they had passed; he then landed on the opposite side, and

proceeded by unfrequented paths to a town in the neighbourhood,

which was under the command of a friend, who, though a

native, and a servant of Holkar, he thought would afford him

protection. This man proved trustworthy; and, after remaining

concealed some time, the Colonel ventured out in the disguise

of a grass-cutter, and reaching the British outposts in safety,

was joyously received by his countrymen. He was appointed to

the command of a regiment of irregular horse, which he still

retains; and his services in the field, at the head of these

brave soldiers, have not been more advantageous to the British

Government than the accurate acquaintance before-mentioned,

which his long and intimate association with natives enabled

him to obtain of the Asiatic character. It was to his

diplomatic skill and knowledge of the best methods of treaty,

that we owed the capitulation of one of those formidable

hill-fortresses (Komalmair in Mewar), whose reduction by

arms would have been at the expense of an immense sacrifice

of human life. The Commandant of the division despatched to

take possession of it, wearied out by the procrastinating and

indecisive spirit of the natives, would have stormed the place

at every disadvantage, had not Colonel Gardner persuaded him

to entrust the negotiation to his hands. The result proved

that he made a just estimate of his own powers: the garrison

agreed to give up the Fortress on the payment of their arrears;

and Colonel Tod, in his ‘Annals of Rajast’han,’ mentions

the circumstance as one highly honourable to the British

character, that, there not being more than four thousand rupees

at the time in the English camp, an order, written by the

Commandant for the remainder, upon the shroffs or bankers in

the neighbourhood, was taken without the least hesitation, the

natives not having the slightest doubt that it would be paid

upon presentation.

“The marriage of Colonel Gardner forms one of the most singular

incidents in his romantic story.

“In the midst of his hazardous career, he carried off a

Mahomedān princess, the sister of one of the lesser potentates

of the Deccan, who, though now reduced to comparative

insignificance, during the rise and progress of the Mahrattas,

were personages of considerable consequence.

‘Ever the first to climb a tower,

As venturous in a lady’s bower,’

the sacred recesses of the zenāna were penetrated by the

enterprising lover, who, at the moment in which his life was

threatened by the brother’s treachery, bore away his prize in

triumph, and sought an asylum in another court. A European,

of popular manners and military experience, could in those

days easily place himself at the head of a formidable body of

soldiers, ready to follow his fortunes, and trusting to his

arrangements with the princes, whose cause he supported, for

their pay, which was frequently in arrear, or dependent upon

the capture of some rich province. In the command of such a

troop Colonel Gardner was a welcome guest wherever he went;

and, until the affair with Holkar, he had always contrived to

secure his retreat whenever it was prudent to commence a new

career in another quarter.

“It is difficult to say what sort of bridal contract is gone

through between a Moslem beauty and a Christian gentleman,

but the ceremony is supposed to be binding; at least it is

considered so in India, a native female not losing the respect

of her associates by forming such a connexion. The marriage

of Colonel Gardner seems perfectly satisfactory to the people

of Hindostān; for the lady has not only continued stedfast to

the Mahomedan faith, and in the strict observance of all the

restrictions prescribed to Asiatic females of rank, but has

brought up her daughters in the same religious persuasion, and

in the same profound seclusion,—points seldom conceded by a

European father. They are, therefore, eligible to match with

the princes of the land, their mother’s family connexions and

high descent atoning for the disadvantage of foreign ancestry

upon the paternal side. Educated according to the most approved

fashion of an Oriental court, they are destined to spend the

remainder of their lives in the zenāna; and this choice for

her daughters shows, that their mother, at least, does not

consider exclusion from the world, in which European women

reign and revel, to be any hardship.

“So little of the spirit of adventure is now stirring in

India, that the Misses Gardner, or the young begams, or

whatsoever appellation it may be most proper to designate

them by, have not attracted the attention of the European

community. Doubtless, their beauty and accomplishments are

blazoned in native society; but, excepting upon the occasion

of an announcement like that referred to in the Calcutta

periodicals, the existence of these ladies is scarcely known to

their father’s countrymen residing in India. We are ignorant

whether their complexions partake most of the eastern or the

northern hue, or whether they have the slightest idea of the

privileges, from which their mother’s adherence to Mahomedan

usages has debarred them. Their situation, singular as it

may appear in England, excites little or no interest; nobody

seems to lament that they were not brought up in the Christian

religion, or permitted those advantages which the half-caste

offspring of women of lower rank enjoy: and, acquainted with

the circumstances of the case, the Editors of the aforesaid

periodicals do not enter into any explanation of intelligence

of the most startling nature to English readers, who, in their

ignorance of facts, are apt to fancy that European ladies in

India are willing to enter into the zenānas of native princes.

“Colonel Gardner has, of course, adopted many of the opinions

and ideas of the people with whom he has passed so great a

portion of his time, and in his mode of living he may be termed

half an Asiatic; this, however, does not prevent him from being

a most acceptable companion to the European residents, who

take the greatest delight in his society whenever he appears

among them. His autobiography would be a work of the highest

value, affording a picture of Indian manners and Indian policy,

with which few besides himself have ever had an opportunity

of becoming so intimately acquainted. As he is still in the

prime and vigour of existence, we may hope that some such

employment of these piping times of peace may be suggested

to him, and that he may be induced to devote the hours spent

in retirement at Khāsgunge, to the writing or the dictation

of the incidents of his early life. In looking back upon past

events, the Colonel occasionally expresses a regret that he

should have been induced to quit the king’s service, in which,

in all probability, he would have attained the highest rank;

but, eminently qualified for the situation in which he has been

placed, and more than reconciled to the destiny which binds him

to a foreign soil, the station he occupies leaves him little to

desire; and he has it in his power to be still farther useful

to society by unlocking the stores of a mind fraught with

information of the highest interest.”

1835, _March 5th._—Two letters having appeared in the “Mofussul Akhbar,”

a provincial paper, Colonel Gardner published this answer:—

“_To the Editor of the_ Mofussul Akhbar.

“DEAR SIR,—In your paper of the 28th ultimo, just received, I

find I have been unwillingly dragged from my obscurity by the

author of ‘Sketches of Living Remarkable Characters in India.’

This I should not have noticed, but for a mistake or two that

it is my duty to correct. In the first place, it was Colonel

Casement who ordered me, and instructed me in his name, to

attempt the negotiation for the surrender of the garrison of

Komalmair. I obeyed his order successfully, only demurring at

the sum demanded, 30,000 rupees, which, for so weak a garrison,

I considered extravagant: but the resident Colonel Tod arrived

at this stage of the business with superior diplomatic power.

Colonel Casement was no longer consulted, and my poor rushlight

was hidden under a bushel. But who can feel any thing against

the author of such a splendid and correct work as ‘Rajustan?’

The writer of the extract has probably mistaken Komalmair for

the Fort of Rampoora,—where, under the instructions of Colonel

Vauzemen, the negotiation for the evacuation was entirely

entrusted to me; and, for the sum of 7000 rupees, a siege was

prevented at a very advanced season of the year, when, as

General Ouchterlony wrote to me, he would otherwise have been

obliged to order the battering-train from Agra.

“When I made my escape, as detailed, by swimming the Taptee,

it was from the tender mercies of the gentle Brahman, our

late pensioner Emurt Row’s force, by whom I was then in close

confinement, and not from Holkar.

“I fear I must divest my marriage with her highness the Begam

of a great part of its romantic attraction, by confessing

that the young Begam was only thirteen years of age when I

first applied for and received her mother’s consent; and

which marriage probably saved both their lives. Allow me to

assure you, on the _very best authority_, that a Moslem lady’s

marriage with a Christian, by a Cazee, is as legal in this

country as if the ceremony had been performed by the Bishop

of Calcutta; a point lately settled by my son’s marriage with

the niece of the Emperor, the Nuwab Mulka Humanee Begam; and

that the respectability of the females of my family amongst the

natives of Hindostān has been settled by the Emperor many years

ago, he having adopted my wife as his daughter; a ceremony

satisfactorily repeated by the Queen, on a visit to my own

house in Delhi. I can assure my partial sketcher, that my only

daughter died in 1804, and that my grand-daughters, by the

particular desire of their grandmother, are Christians. It was

an act of her own, as by the marriage agreement, the daughters

were to be brought up in the religion of the mother; the sons

in that of your

“Very obedient, humble servant,

“W. L. G⸺.”

“Khasgunge, 5th March, 1835.”

Colonel Tod, in a letter to the editor of “the Asiatic Journal,” thus

speaks of Colonel Gardner:—“A day or two previous to this number (of your

journal) being lent me, an intimate friend of Colonel Gardner’s spent

the evening with me; and as it is almost impossible that any two men,

at all acquainted with his diversified life, could talk of him without

expressing a wish that he would become his own biographer,—the subject

being started, we mutually agreed, that, qualified in every way as he

is for the task, the result would be both interesting and instructive.

Amongst other remarks, I observed that, although he was well known to

me by character, and I had to bear testimony to the brave conduct of a

part of his corps, attached to me in 1817; the only time I ever had the

pleasure of seeing him was the day following the surrender of Komulmér,

when he dined with me.

“I trust your correspondent will proceed with ‘the sketches,’ and that

the outline he has now furnished of Colonel Gardner’s history may

stimulate the original to give, what no other can, his biography in

full. Colonel Gardner is one of the many remarkable men, who have passed

a most extraordinary life, floating, as circumstance or ‘_nuseeb_’

propelled, amidst the chaotic elements of Indian society, during the

half-century preceding the halcyon days of 1818; when, by the vigorous

mind and measures of the Marquess of Hastings, peace, for the first time

in its history, reigned from the Himalaya to Cape Comorin. _Aristides was

banished Athens!_”

I greatly wished Colonel Gardner would consent to tell me the history

of his remarkable life, which I was anxious to write down from his

dictation. One evening he said, “Merā Betee, (my child) when in Holkar’s

service, I was employed as an envoy to the Company’s forces, under Lord

Lake, with instructions to return within a certain time; my family

remained in camp. Suspicion of treachery was caused by my lengthened

absence, and accusations were brought forward against me at the Darbār,

held by Holkar on the third day following that on which my presence was

expected. I rejoined the camp while the darbār was still assembled; on

my entrance, the Mahārāj, in an angry tone, demanded the reason of the

delay; which I gave, pointing out the impossibility of a speedier return.

Holkar exclaimed, in great anger, ‘Had you not returned this day, I would

have levelled the khanats of your tents.’ I drew my sword instantly, and

attempted to cut his highness down, but was prevented by those around

him; and ere they had recovered from the amazement and confusion caused

by the attempt, I rushed from the tent, sprang upon my horse, and was

soon beyond reach of the pursuers.”

To account for Colonel Gardner’s indignation, it must be remembered, that

the kanāts are walls of canvas, that surround the tents of the ladies of

the zenāna; to have thrown down those screens, and to have exposed women

within parda to the gaze of men, would have been an insult for which

there could be no atonement. Colonel Gardner’s high spirit was as prompt

to avenge the threat as it would have been willing to take the life of

Holkar, had he intruded on the privacy of the Begam’s apartments.

Through the influence of friends, the Princess and her family were

allowed, unmolested, to quit Holkar’s dominions, and rejoin her husband.

The account Colonel Gardner gave me of his marriage with the Begam was

this:—

“When a young man, I was entrusted to negotiate a treaty with one of the

native princes of Cambay. Darbārs and consultations were continually

held; during one of the former, at which I was present, a parda (native

curtain) near me was gently moved aside, and I saw, as I thought, the

most beautiful black eyes in the world. It was impossible to think of the

treaty; those bright and piercing glances, those beautiful dark eyes,

completely bewildered me.

“I felt flattered that a creature so lovely as she of those deep black,

loving eyes must be, should venture to gaze upon me; to what danger might

not the veiled beauty be exposed, should the movement of the parda be

seen by any of those at the darbār! On quitting the assembly I discovered

that the bright-eyed beauty was the daughter of the Prince. At the next

darbār, my agitation and anxiety were extreme again to behold the bright

eyes that had haunted my dreams by night, and my thoughts by day! The

parda again was gently moved, and my fate was decided.

“I demanded the Princess in marriage; her relations were at first

indignant, and positively refused my proposal; however, on mature

deliberation, the ambassador was considered too influential a person to

have a request denied, and the hand of the young Princess was promised.

The preparations for the marriage were carried forward; ‘Remember,’ said

I, ‘it will be useless to attempt to deceive me; I shall know those eyes

again, nor will I marry any other.’

“On the day of the marriage I raised the veil from the countenance of the

bride, and in the mirror that was placed between us beheld the bright

eyes that had bewildered me; I smiled,—the young Begam smiled also.”

Such was Colonel Gardner’s account of the first time he beheld his bride.

Well might she smile when she gazed upon that noble countenance!

THE TOMB OF COLONEL HESSING.

_15th._—This beautiful Mausoleum is in the Catholic burial ground at

Agra, and is well worthy a visit. It was built by a native architect, by

name Luteef, in imitation of the ancient Muhammadan tombs. The material

is the red stone from Fathīpoor Sicri, which is highly carved, but not

inlaid. The tomb is beautiful, very beautiful, and in excellent taste.

Its cost is estimated at about one lākh of rupees. Luteef’s drawings

of the Tāj and of all the ancient monuments around Agra are excellent;

they cost from three to forty rupees each. I bought a large collection

of them, as well as of marbles and other curiosities. Luteef inlays

marble with precious stones, after the style of the work in the Tāj. A

chess-table of this sort, with a border of flowers in mosaic, costs from

eight to twelve hundred rupees, £80, or £120, and is beautifully executed.

_16th._—My affairs at Agra having come to a conclusion, and the pinnace,

carriage, and horses being on their way home, I once more turned my steps

to Khāsgunge, and arrived there dāk, accompanied by a friend, who was

extremely anxious to see the marriage ceremony, although all that the eye

of a man is permitted to behold is the tamāshā that takes place without

the four walls. All that passes within is sacred.

On my arrival the whole party at Khāsgunge were going out to tents by the

Ganges to hunt wild boars and otters; to shoot crocodiles, floriken,

black partridge, and other game. Even for people in good health it was,

at that season of the year, a mad expedition, and I declined going; I

longed indeed to accompany them, but my cold and cough were so severe I

was forced to give up the idea.

_18th._—My dear Colonel Gardner, seeing how ill I was, said, “You will

never recover, my child, in the outer house; I will give you a room in

the inner one, and put you under the care of the begam; there you will

soon recover.” He took me over to the zenāna; the begam received me very

kindly, and appointed four of her slaves to attend upon me, and aid my

own women. They put me immediately into a steam-bath, shampooed, mulled,

and half-boiled me; cracked every joint after the most approved fashion,

took me out, laid me on a golden-footed bed, gave me sherbet to drink,

shampooed me to sleep, and by the time the shooting party returned from

the Gunga, I had perfectly recovered, and was able to enter into all the

amusement of seeing a Hindostanee wedding.

I must here anticipate, and remark that Suddu Khan, our excellent little

khānsāmān, died in June, 1841. He had been ill and unable to attend for

months. There is a story, that being in an hummām, he received some

injury in the spine while being shampooed and joint-cracked by a barber,

who placed his knee to his back, and then forcibly brought his two arms

backwards. The story says poor Suddu fainted, and the barber was so much

alarmed, he fled, and has never been seen since at Cawnpore, where the

scene took place.

Wanderings of a pilgrim in search of the picturesque, Volume 1 (of 2) · 第 35 / 38 章