CHAPTER X.

LIFE IN THE ZENĀNA.

“SHE WHO IS BELOVED, IS THE WIFE[37].”

Zenāna of the King of Oude—Regiment of Females—The Favourite

Wife—The English Begam—The Princess of Delhi, _the_ Begam

_par excellence_—Colonel Gardner—Mirza Sulimān Sheko and his

fifty-two Children—The forty Princesses—Mootee, the Pearl of

the Desert—Hunting Season at Papamhow—Jackals and Foxes—A

Suttee at Prāg—Report of a Suttee—An ill-starred Horse.

_Oct. 1828._—A letter just received from a lady, a friend of mine, at

Lucnow, is so amusing and so novel, I must make an extract:—

“The other day, (Oct. 18th,) was the anniversary of the King of Oude’s

coronation; and I went to see the ceremony, one I had never witnessed

before, and with which I was much gratified. But the greatest treat was

a visit to the begam’s afterwards, when the whole of the wives, aunts,

cousins, &c., were assembled in state to receive us.

“The old begam (the king’s mother), was the _great lady_, of course,

and in her palace were we received; the others being considered her

guests, as well as ourselves. It was a most amusing sight, as I had never

witnessed the interior of a zenāna before, and so many women assembled

at once I had never beheld. I suppose from first to last we saw some

thousands. _Women-bearers_ carried our tanjans; a regiment of female

gold and silver-sticks, dressed in male costume, were drawn up before

the entrance; and those men, chiefly _Africans_, who were employed inside

the zenāna (and there were abundance of these frightful creatures),

were all of the same class as the celebrated Velluti. The old begam was

without jewels or ornaments, likewise a very pretty and favourite wife of

the late king, their state of widowhood precluding their wearing them.

But the present king’s wives were most superbly dressed, and looked like

creatures of the Arabian tales. Indeed, one was so beautiful, that I

could think of nothing but Lalla Rookh in her bridal attire.

“I never saw any one so lovely, either black or white. Her features were

perfect; and such eyes and eyelashes I never beheld before. She is the

favourite queen at present, and has only been married a month or two: her

age about fourteen; and such a little creature, with the smallest hands

and feet, and the most _timid_, _modest_ look imaginable. You would have

been charmed with her, she was so graceful and fawn-like. Her dress was

of gold and scarlet brocade, and her hair was literally strewed with

pearls, which hung down upon her neck in long single strings, terminating

in large pearls, which mixed with and hung _as low_ as her hair, which

was curled on each side her head in long ringlets, like Charles the

Second’s beauties.

“On her forehead she wore a small gold circlet, from which depended (and

hung half-way down her forehead) large pear-shaped pearls, interspersed

with emeralds. The pearls were of this size and form, and had a very

becoming effect, close upon the forehead, between the eyes. Above this

was a paradise plume, from which strings of pearls were carried over the

head, as we turn _our hair_.

[Illustration]

“I fear you will not understand me. Her ear-rings were immense

gold-rings, with pearls and emeralds suspended all round in long strings,

the pearls increasing in size. She had a nose-ring also, with large

round pearls and emeralds; and her necklaces, &c., were too numerous to

be described. She wore long sleeves, open at the elbow; and her dress

was a full petticoat, some dozen yards wide, with a tight body attached,

and only open at the throat. She had several persons to bear her train

when she walked; and her women stood behind her couch to arrange her

head-dress, when in moving her pearls got entangled in the immense

dopatta of scarlet and gold she had thrown around her. How I wished for

you when we were seated! you would have been delighted with the whole

scene. This beautiful creature is the envy of all the other wives, and

the favourite, at present, of the king and his mother, both of whom have

given her titles—the king’s is after the favourite wife of one of the

celebrated kings of Delhi, ‘Tajmahŭl,’ and Nourmahŭl herself could not

have been more lovely.

“The other newly-made queen is nearly _European_, but not a whit fairer

than Tajmahŭl. She is, in my opinion, plain, but is considered by the

native ladies very handsome; and she was the king’s favourite until he

saw Tajmahŭl.

“She was more splendidly dressed than even Tajmahŭl; her head-dress was

a coronet of diamonds, with a fine crescent and plume of the same. She

is the daughter of an European merchant, and is accomplished for an

inhabitant of a zenāna, as she writes and speaks Persian fluently, as

well as Hindostani, and it is said she is teaching the king _English_;

though, when we spoke to her in English, she said she had forgotten it,

and could not reply. She was, I fancy, afraid of the old begam, as she

evidently understood us; and when asked if she liked being in the zenāna,

she shook her head and looked quite melancholy. Jealousy of the new

favourite, however, appeared the cause of her discontent, as, though they

sat on the same couch, they never addressed each other. And now you must

be as tired of the begams, as I am of writing about them.

“The mother of the king’s children, Mulka Zumanee, did not visit us at

the old queen’s, but we went to see her at her own palace: she is, _after

all_, the person of the most political consequence, being the mother of

the heir-apparent; and she has great power over her royal husband, whose

ears she boxes occasionally.

“The Delhi princess, to whom the king was betrothed and married by his

father, we did not see; she is in disgrace, and confined to her own

palace. The old begam talked away to us, but appeared surprised I should

admire Tajmahŭl more than the English begam, as she is called,—_my

country-woman_ as they styled her!

“Poor thing, I felt ashamed of the circumstance, when I saw her chewing

pān with all the gusto of a regular Hindostanee.”

The above letter contains so charming an account of Lucnow, that I cannot

refrain from adding an extract from another of the same lady.

“At the residency, on such a day as this, the thermometer is seldom short

of 100°!

“Did you ever hear of Colonel Gardner? he is married to a native

princess. The other day he paid Lucnow a visit. His son’s wife is sister

to the _legal_ queen of our present worthy sovereign of Oude. Colonel

Gardner came on a visit to the begam’s father, Mirza Sulimān Sheko, a

prince of the house of Delhi, blessed with fifty-two children, twelve

sons and forty daughters! Did you ever hear of such enormity? the poor

papa is without a rupee, his pension from government of 5000 rupees a

month is mortgaged to his numerous creditors. He has quarrelled with his

illustrious son-in-law, the king of Oude; and Colonel Gardner has come

over with the laudable purpose of removing his family from Oude to Delhi,

where they will have a better chance of being provided for.

“Indeed, the other day, seventeen of the daughters were betrothed to

seventeen princes of Delhi: this is disposing of one’s daughters by

wholesale! is it not? Colonel Gardner, who is a very gentlemanlike

person, I hear, of the old school, was educated in France some fifty

years ago. He gave a description of his sojourn amongst this _small

family_ in the city, in these words,—‘I slept every night with the

thermometer at 100°, and surrounded by 500 females!’

“What a situation! I do not know which would be the most overpowering,

the extreme heat, or the incessant clack of the forty princesses and

their attendants. It reminds me of the old fairy tale of the ‘Ogre’s

forty daughters with golden crowns on their heads.’”

_On dit_, the English begam was the daughter of a half caste and

an English officer; her mother afterwards married a native buniyā

(shop-keeper). She had a sister; both the girls lived with the mother,

and employed themselves in embroidering saddle-cloths for the horses

of the rich natives. They were both very plain; nevertheless, one of

them sent her picture to his majesty, who, charmed with the portrait,

married the lady. She had money in profusion at her command: she made her

father-in-law her treasurer, and pensioned her mother and sister.

THE SUTTEE.

A rich buniyā, a corn chandler, whose house was near the gate of our

grounds, departed this life; he was an Hindoo. On the 7th of November,

the natives in the bazār were making a great noise with their tom-toms,

drums, and other discordant musical instruments, rejoicing that his widow

had determined to perform suttee, _i.e._ to burn on his funeral-pile.

The magistrate sent for the woman, used every argument to dissuade her,

and offered her money. Her only answer was, dashing her head on the

floor, and saying, “If you will not let me burn with my husband, I will

hang myself in your court of justice.” The shāstrs say, “The prayers

and imprecations of a suttee are never uttered in vain; the great gods

themselves cannot listen to them unmoved.”

If a widow touch either food or water from the time her husband expires

until she ascend the pile, she cannot, by Hindoo law, be burned with

the body; therefore the magistrate kept the corpse _forty-eight_ hours,

in the hope that hunger would compel the woman to eat. Guards were set

over her, but she never touched any thing. My husband accompanied the

magistrate to see the suttee: about 5000 people were collected together

on the banks of the Ganges: the pile was then built, and the putrid

body placed upon it; the magistrate stationed guards to prevent the

people from approaching it. After having bathed in the river, the widow

lighted a brand, walked round the pile, set it on fire, and then mounted

cheerfully: the flame caught and blazed up instantly; she sat down,

placing the head of the corpse on her lap, and repeated several times the

usual form, “Ram, Ram, suttee; Ram, Ram, suttee,” _i.e._ “God, God, I am

chaste.”

As the wind drove the fierce fire upon her, she shook her arms and limbs

as if in agony; at length she started up and approached the side to

escape. An Hindoo, one of the police who had been placed near the pile

to see she had fair play, and should not be burned by force, raised his

sword to strike her, and the poor wretch shrank back into the flames. The

magistrate seized and committed him to prison. The woman again approached

the side of the blazing pile, sprang fairly out, and ran into the Ganges,

which was within a few yards. When the crowd and the brothers of the dead

man saw this, they called out, “Cut her down, knock her on the head with

a bamboo; tie her hands and feet, and throw her in again;” and rushed

down to execute their murderous intentions, when the gentlemen and the

police drove them back.

The woman drank some water, and having extinguished the fire on her red

garment, said she would mount the pile again and be burned.

The magistrate placed his hand on her shoulder (which rendered her

impure), and said, “By your own law, having once quitted the pile you

cannot ascend again; I forbid it. You are now an outcast from the

Hindoos, but I will take charge of you, the Company will protect you, and

you shall never want food or clothing.”

He then sent her, in a palanquin, under a guard, to the hospital. The

crowd made way, shrinking from her with signs of horror, but returned

peaceably to their homes; the Hindoos annoyed at her escape, and the

Mussulmans saying, “It was better that she should escape, but it was a

pity we should have lost the _tamāshā_ (amusement) of seeing her burnt to

death.”

Had not the magistrate and the English gentlemen been present, the

Hindoos would have cut her down when she attempted to quit the fire; or

had she leapt out, would have thrown her in again, and have said, “She

performed suttee of _her own accord_, how could _we_ make her? it was

the will of God.” As a specimen of their religion the woman said, “I

have transmigrated six times, and have been burned six times with six

different husbands; if I do not burn the seventh time, it will prove

unlucky for me!” “What good will burning do you?” asked a bystander. She

replied, “The women of my husband’s family have all been suttees, why

should I bring disgrace upon them? I shall go to heaven, and afterwards

re-appear on earth, and be married to a very rich man.” She was about

twenty or twenty-five years of age, and possessed of some property, for

the sake of which her relatives wished to put her out of the world.

If every suttee were conducted in this way, very few would take place in

India. The woman was not much burned, with the exception of some parts

on her arms and legs. Had she performed suttee, they would have raised

a little cenotaph, or a mound of earth by the side of the river, and

every Hindoo who passed the place returning from bathing would have made

sālām to it; a high honour to the family. While we were in Calcutta,

many suttees took place; but as they were generally on the other side

of the river, we only heard of them after they had occurred. Here the

people passed in procession, flags flying, and drums beating, close by

our door. I saw them from the verandah; the widow, dressed in a red

garment, was walking in the midst. My servants all ran to me, begging to

be allowed to go and see the tamāshā (fun, sport), and having obtained

permission, they all started off, except one man, who was pulling the

pankhā, and he looked greatly vexed at being obliged to remain. The sāhib

said, the woman appeared so perfectly determined, he did not think she

would have quitted the fire. Having performed suttee according to her

own account six times before, one would have thought from her miraculous

incombustibility, she had become asbestos, only purified and not consumed

by fire. I was glad the poor creature was not murdered; but she will be

an outcast; no Hindoo will eat with her, enter her house, or give her

assistance; and when she appears they will point at her and give her

abuse. Her own and her husband’s family would lose caste if they were

to speak to her: but, as an example, it will prevent a number of women

from becoming suttees, and do infinite good: fortunately, she has no

children. And these are the people called in Europe the “mild inoffensive

Hindoos!”

The woman was mistress of a good house and about 800 rupees; the brothers

of her deceased husband would, after her destruction, have inherited the

property.

The burning of the widow is not commanded by the shāstrs: to perform

suttee is a proof of devotion to the husband. The mountain Himalaya,

being personified, is represented as a powerful monarch: his wife,

Mena; their daughter is called Parvuti, or mountain-born, and Doorga,

or difficult of access. She is said to have been married to Shivŭ in

a _pre-existing_ state when she was called Sŭtēē. After the marriage,

Shivŭ on a certain occasion offended his father-in-law, King Dŭkshŭ, by

refusing to make sālām to him as he entered the circle in which the king

was sitting.

To be revenged, the monarch refused to invite Shivŭ to a sacrifice

which he was about to perform. Sŭtēē, the king’s daughter, however, was

resolved to go, though uninvited and forbidden by her husband. On her

arrival, Dŭkshŭ poured a torrent of abuse on Shivŭ, which affected Sŭtēē

so much that she died.

In memory of this proof of great affection, a Hindoo widow burning with

her husband on the funeral-pile, is called a Sŭtēē.

The following passages are from the Hindoo Shāstrs:—

“There are 35,000,000 hairs on the human body. The woman who ascends the

pile with her husband, will remain so many years in heaven.”

“As the snake draws the serpent from its hole, so she, rescuing her

husband (from hell), rejoices with him.”

“The woman who expires on the funeral-pile of her husband, purifies the

family of her mother, her father, and her husband.”

“So long as a woman, in her successive transmigrations, shall decline

burning herself, like a faithful wife, on the same fire with her deceased

lord, so long shall she not be exempted from springing again to life in

the body of some female animal.”

[Illustration: TEMPLE OF BHAWĀNĪ AND SUTTEES ALOPEE BĀGH.

On Stone by Major Parlby.

Sketched on the Spot by ‎‏فاني پارکس‏‎]

“There is no virtue greater than a chaste woman burning herself with

her husband:” the term Sŭtēē, here rendered “chaste” is thus explained;

“commiserating with her husband in trouble, rejoicing in his joys,

neglecting herself when he is gone from home, and dying at his death.”

“By the favour of a chaste woman the universe is preserved, on which

account she is to be regarded by kings and people as a goddess.”

“If the husband be out of the country when he dies, let the virtuous wife

take his slippers (or any thing else which belongs to his dress) and

binding them, or it, on her breast, after purification, enter a separate

fire.”

Mothers collect the cowries strewn by a sŭtēē as she walks round the

pile, ere she fires it, and hang them round the necks of their sick

children as a cure for disease.

In the plate entitled “Superstitions of the Natives,” fig. 3 represents

the cowrie shells. (Cypræa moneta.)

The suttee took place on the banks of the Ganges, under the Bund between

the Fort and Raj Ghat, a spot reckoned very holy and fortunate for the

performance of the rite.

Several of our friends requested me, in case another suttee occurred,

to send them timely notice. Five days afterwards, I was informed that a

rānee[38] was to be burned. Accordingly I sent word to all my friends.

Eight thousand people were assembled on the suttee-ground, who waited

from mid-day to sunset: then a cry arose—“The mem sāhiba sent us here!

the mem sāhiba said it was to take place to-day! see, the sun has set,

there can now be no suttee!” The people dispersed. My informant told

me what he himself believed, and I mystified some 8000 people most

unintentionally.

TEMPLE OF BHAWĀNĪ AND SUTTEES, ALOPEE BAGH.

In Alopee Bagh, in the centre of a large plantation of mango-trees, is

a small temple dedicated to Bhawānī; there is no image in it, merely a

raised altar, on which victims were, I suppose, formerly sacrificed. Each

of the small buildings on the right contains the ashes of a suttee;

there are seven suttee-graves of masonry on this, and six of earth on the

other side, near the temple, in the mango tope. The largest suttee-tomb

contains the ashes of a woman who was burnt in 1825, _i.e._ six years

ago. The ashes are always buried near a temple sacred to Bhāwanī, and

_never_ by any other. Families too poor to raise a tomb of masonry in

memory of the burnt-sacrifice, are contented to raise a mound of earth,

and place a kulsa of red earthenware to mark the spot. In the sketch of

“The Kulsas[39],” Fig. 8 is one of this description, which I carried away

from these suttee-mounds.

The temple of Bhawānī is shaded by a most beautiful peepul-tree, from

the centre of which a fakīr’s flag was flying; it stands in a plantation

of mango-trees. I desired an Hindoo, who was present when I sketched the

temple, to count the suttee-graves around it. As he counted them, he

repeatedly made sālām to each mound.

The kulsa, Fig. 8, is made of common unglazed red pottery: there are

five points—one at the top, the others placed at equal spaces around it;

between the points are two figures of human beings, and two emblems like

a moon and a crescent, see Fig. 9. The kulsa is hollow, and has five

holes, through which the points, which are of solid earthenware, are

introduced before baking, see Fig. 10: height, ten inches and a half;

circumference just below the points, twenty-six inches; diameter at

bottom, six inches. The kulsa, Fig. 7, is another from a large suttee at

the same spot, of a different form; they call it a topee walla kulsa. The

suttees in the sketch of the temple of Bhawānī are all of masonry; the

mounds are invisible, lying at the back of the temple.

_Nov._—My beautiful Arab, Mootee, after taking a most marvellous quantity

of blue vitriol and opium, has recovered, but will be unfit for my

riding; the sinews of his fore-leg are injured; besides which, he is

rather too playful; he knocked down his sā’īs yesterday, tore his clothes

to pieces, bit two bits of flesh out of his back, and would perhaps have

killed him, had not the people in the bazār interfered and rescued the

man. It was an odd freak, he is such a sweet-tempered animal, and I never

knew him behave incorrectly before.

We spent the month of December, our hunting season, at Papamhow; and

purchased several couple of the Berkeley hounds, from the Calcutta

kennel, for the pack at Allahabad. I received a present of an excellent

little black horse with a long tail; and, mounted on him, used to go

out every day after the jackals and foxes. I am rich in riding-horses,

and the dark brown stud Arab Trelawny bids fair to rival Mootee in

my affections. Returning from chasing a jackal one evening, it was

very dark, and as Captain A⸺ S⸺ was cantering his Arab across the

parade-ground, the animal put his foot into a deep hole, and fell;

our friend thought nothing of it, and refused to be bled; a few days

afterwards the regiment quitted Allahabad, and he died the second day, on

the march to Benares. He was an ill-fated animal, that little horse of

his: they called him an Arab pony, but no good caste animal would have

been so vicious; he had one fault, a trick of biting at the foot of his

rider—he bit off the toe of his former master, mortification ensued, and

the man died. I often wished to mount him, but they would never allow me:

the creature was very handsome, and remarkably well formed; doubtless

a native would have found unlucky marks upon him—at that time I was

ignorant respecting samāt, or unlucky marks on horses.

Wanderings of a pilgrim in search of the picturesque, Volume 1 (of 2) · 第 10 / 38 章