On the morning of the 12th all was confusion at Pontlieue. Guns, waggons,

horsemen, infantrymen, were congregated there, half blocking up the bridge

which connects this suburb with Le Mans. A small force under General de

Roquebrune was gallantly striving to check the Germans at one part of the

Chemin des Boeufs, in order to cover the retreat. A cordon of gendarmes

had been drawn up at the railway-station to prevent it from being invaded

by all the runaways. Some hundreds of wounded men were allowed access,

however, in order that they might, if possible, get away in one of the

many trains which were being sent off as rapidly as possible. This service

was in charge of an official named Piquet, who acted with the greatest

energy and acumen. Of the five railway-lines meeting at Le Mans only two

were available, that running to Rennes _viâ_ Laval, and that running to

Angers. I find from a report drawn up by M. Piquet a little later, that he

managed to send off twenty-five trains, some of them drawn by two and

three engines. They included about 1000 vans, trucks, and coaches; that is

558 vans laden with provisions (in part for the relief of Paris); 134 vans

and trucks laden with artillery _matériel_ and stores, 70 vans of

ammunition, 150 empty vans and trucks, and 176 passenger carriages. On

securing possession of the station, however, the Germans still found there

about 200 vans and carriages, and at least a dozen locomotive engines. The

last train left at 2.45 p.m. I myself got away (as I shall presently

relate) shortly after two o'clock, when the station was already being

bombarded.

General de Roquebrune having, at last, been compelled to withdraw from the

vicinity of the Chemin des Boeufs, the Germans came on to the long avenue

of Pontlieue. Here they were met by most of the corps of gendarmes, which,

as I previously related, was attached to the headquarters-staff under

General Bourdillon. These men, who had two Gatlings with them, behaved

with desperate bravery in order to delay the German entry into the town.

About a hundred of them, including a couple of officers, were killed

during that courageous defence. It was found impossible, however, to blow

up the bridge. The operation had been delayed as long as possible in order

to facilitate the French retreat, and when the gendarmes themselves

withdrew, there no longer remained sufficient time to put it into

execution.

The first Germans to enter the town belonged to the 38th Brigade of

Infantry, and to part of a cavalry force under General von Schmidt. After

crossing the bridge of Pontlieue, they divided into three columns. One of

them proceeded up the Rue du Quartier de Cavalerie in the direction of the

Place des Jacobins and the cathedral. The second also went towards the

upper town, marching, however, by way of the Rue Basse, which conducted to

the Place des Halles, where the chief hotels and cafés were situated.

Meantime, the third column turned to the left, and hastened towards the

railway station. But, to their great amazement, their advance was

repeatedly checked. There were still a number of French soldiers in the

town, among them being Mobile Guards, Gendarmes, Franc-tireurs, and a

party of Marine Fusiliers. The German column which began to ascend the Rue

Basse was repeatedly fired at, whereupon its commanding officer halted his

men, and by way of punishment had seven houses set on fire, before

attempting to proceed farther. Nevertheless, the resistance was prolonged

at various points, on the Place des Jacobins, for instance, and again on

the Place des Halles. Near the latter square is--or was--a little street

called the Rue Dumas, from which the French picked off a dozen or twenty

Germans, so infuriating their commander that he sent for a couple of

field-pieces, and threatened to sweep the whole town with projectiles.

Meantime, a number of the French who had lingered at Le Mans were

gradually effecting their escape. Many artillery and commissariat waggons

managed to get away, and a local notability, M. Eugène Caillaux--father

of M. Joseph Caillaux who was French Prime Minister during the latter half

of 1911, and who is now (Dec., 1913) Minister of Finances--succeeded in

sending out of the town several carts full of rifles, which some of the

French troops had flung away. However, the street-fighting could not be

indefinitely prolonged. It ceased when about a hundred Germans and a

larger number of French, both soldiers and civilians, had been killed.

The Germans avenged themselves by pillaging the houses in the Rue Dumas,

and several on the Place des Halles, though they spared the Hôtel de

France there, as their commander, Voigts Rhetz, reserved it for his own

accommodation. Whilst the bombardment of a part of the lower town

continued--the railway station and the barracks called the Caserne de

la Mission being particularly affected--raids were made on the French

ambulances, in one of which, on the Boulevard Négrier, a patient was

barbarously bayoneted in his bed, on the pretext that he was a

Franc-tireur, whereas he really belonged to the Mobile Guard. At the

ambulance of the École Normale, the sisters and clergy were, according to

their sworn statements, grossly ill-treated. Patients, some of whom were

suffering from smallpox, were turned out of their beds--which were

required, it was said, for the German wounded. All the wine that could be

found was drunk, money was stolen, and there was vindictive destruction on

all sides.

The Mayor [The Prefect, M. Le Chevalier, had followed the army in its

retreat, considering it his duty to watch over the uninvaded part of the

department of the Sartha.] of Le Mans, M. Richard, and his two _adjoints_,

or deputies, went down through the town carrying a towel as a flag of

truce, and on the Place de la Mission they at last found Voigts Rhetz

surrounded by his staff. The General at once informed the Mayor that, in

consequence of the resistance of the town, it would have to pay a

war-levy of four millions of francs (£160,000) within twenty-four hours,

and that the inhabitants would have to lodge and feed the German forces as

long as they remained there. All the appeals made against these hard

conditions were disregarded during nearly a fortnight. When both the Mayor

and the Bishop of Le Mans solicited audiences of Prince Frederick Charles,

they were told by the famous Count Harry von Arnim--who, curiously enough,

subsequently became German Ambassador to France, but embroiled himself

with Bismarck and died in exile--that if they only wished to tender their

humble duty to the Prince he would graciously receive them, but that he

refused to listen to any representations on behalf of the town.

A first sum of £20,000 and some smaller ones were at last got together in

this town of 37,000 inhabitants, and finally, on January 23, the total

levy was reduced, as a special favour, to £80,000. Certain German

requisitions were also to be set off against £20,000 of that amount; but

they really represented about double the figure. A public loan had to be

raised in the midst of continual exactions, which lasted even after the

preliminaries of peace had been signed, the Germans regarding Le Mans as a

milch cow from which too much could not be extracted.

The anxieties of the time might well have sufficed to make the Mayor ill,

but, as a matter of fact, he caught small-pox, and his place had to be

taken by a deputy, who with the municipal council, to which several local

notabilities were adjoined, did all that was possible to satisfy the greed

of the Germans. Small-pox, I may mention, was very prevalent at Le Mans,

and some of the ambulances were specially reserved for soldiers who had

contracted that disease. Altogether, about 21,000 men (both French and

Germans), suffering from wounds or diseases of various kinds, were treated

in the town's ambulances from November 1 to April 15.

Some thousands of Germans were billeted on the inhabitants, whom they

frequently robbed with impunity, all complaints addressed to the German

Governor, an officer named Von Heiduck, being disregarded. This individual

ordered all the inhabitants to give up any weapons which they possessed,

under penalty of death. Another proclamation ordained the same punishment

for anybody who might give the slightest help to the French army, or

attempt to hamper the German forces. Moreover, the editors, printers, and

managers of three local newspapers were summarily arrested and kept in

durance on account of articles against the Germans which they had written,

printed, or published _before_ Chanzy's defeat.

On January 13, which chanced to be a Friday, Prince Frederick Charles made

his triumphal entry into Le Mans, the bands of the German regiments

playing all their more popular patriotic airs along the route which

his Royal Highness took in order to reach the Prefecture--a former

eighteenth-century convent--where he intended to install himself. On the

following day the Mayor received the following letter:

"Mr. Mayor,

"I request you to send to the Prefecture by half-past five o'clock this

afternoon 24 spoons, 24 forks, and 36 knives, as only just sufficient for

the number of people at table have been sent, and there is no means of

changing the covers. For dinner you will provide 20 bottles of Bordeaux,

30 bottles of Champagne, two bottles of Madeira, and 2 bottles of

liqueurs, which must be at the Prefecture at six o'clock precisely.

The wine previously sent not being good, neither the Bordeaux nor the

Champagne, you must send better kinds, otherwise I shall have to inflict

a fine upon the town.

(Signed) "Von Kanitz."

This communication was followed almost immediately afterwards by another,

emanating from the same officer, who was one of the Prince's

aides-de-camp. He therein stated (invariably employing, be it said,

execrable French) that the _café-au-lait_ was to be served at the

Prefecture at 8 a.m.; the _déjeuner_ at noon; and the dinner at 7.30 p.m.

At ten o'clock every morning, the Mayor was to send 40 bottles of

Bordeaux, 40 bottles of Champagne, 6 bottles of Madeira, and 3 bottles of

liqueurs. He was also to provide waiters to serve at table, and kitchen-

and scullery-maids. And Kanitz concluded by saying: "If the least thing

fails, a remarkable (_sic_) fine will be inflicted on the town."

On January 15 an order was sent to the Mayor to supply at once, for the

Prince's requirements, 25 kilogrammes of ham; 13 kilos. of sausages;

13 kilos. of tongues; 5 dozen eggs; vegetables of all sorts, particularly

onions; 15 kilos. of Gruyère cheese; 5 kilos. of Parmesan; 15 kilos.

of best veal; 20 fowls; 6 turkeys; 12 ducks; 5 kilos. of powdered sugar.

[All the German orders and requisitions are preserved in the municipal

archives of Le Mans.] No wine was ever good enough for Prince Frederick

Charles and his staff. The complaints sent to the town-hall were

incessant. Moreover, the supply of Champagne, by no means large in such a

place as Le Mans, gave out, and then came all sorts of threats. The

municipal councillors had to trot about trying to discover a few bottles

here and there in private houses, in order to supply the requirements of

the Princely Staff. There was also a scarcity of vegetables, and yet there

were incessant demands for spinach, cauliflowers, and artichokes, and even

fruit for the Prince's tarts. One day Kanitz went to the house where the

unfortunate Mayor was lying in bed, and told him that he must get up and

provide vegetables, as none had been sent for the Prince's table. The

Mayor protested that the whole countryside was covered with snow, and that

it was virtually impossible to satisfy such incessant demands; but, as he

afterwards related, ill and worried though he was, he could not refrain

from laughing when he was required to supply several pounds of truffles.

Truffles at Le Mans, indeed! In those days, too! The idea was quite

ridiculous.

Not only had the demands of Prince Frederick Charles's staff to be

satisfied, but there were those of Voigts Rhetz, and of all the officers

lodging at the Hôtel de France, the Hôtel du Dauphin, the Hôtel de la

Boule d'Or and other hostelries. These gentlemen were very fond of giving

dinners, and "mine host" was constantly being called upon to provide all

sorts of delicacies at short notice. The cellars of the Hôtel de France

were drunk dry. The common soldiers also demanded the best of everything

at the houses where they were billeted; and sometimes they played

extraordinary pranks there. Half a dozen of them, who were lodged at a

wine-shop in, I think, the Rue Dumas, broached a cask of brandy, poured

the contents into a tub, and washed their feet in the spirituous liquor.

It may be that a "brandy bath" is a good thing for sore feet; and that

might explain the incident. However, when I think of it, I am always

reminded of how, in the days of the Second Empire, the spendthrift Due de

Gramont-Caderousse entered the. Café Anglais in Paris, one afternoon,

called for a silver soup-tureen, had two or three bottles of champagne

poured into it, and then made an unrepentant Magdalen of the Boulevards,

whom he had brought with him, wash his feet in the sparkling wine. From

that afternoon until the Café Anglais passed out of existence no silver

soup-tureens were ever used there.

I have given the foregoing particulars respecting the German occupation

of Le Mans--they are principally derived from official documents--just to

show the reader what one might expect if, for instance, a German force

should land at Hull or Grimsby and fight its way successfully to--let us

say--York or Leeds or Nottingham. The incidents which occurred at Le Mans

were by no means peculiar to that town. Many similar instances occurred

throughout the invaded regions of France. I certainly do not wish to

impute gluttony to Prince Frederick Charles personally. But during the

years which followed the Franco-German War I made three fairly long

stays at Berlin, putting up at good hotels, where officers--sometimes

generals--often lunched and dined. And their appetites frequently amazed

me, whilst their manners at table were repulsive. In those days most

German officers were bearded, and I noticed that between the courses at

luncheon and at dinner it was a common practice of theirs to produce

pocket-glasses and pocket-combs, and comb their beards--as well as the

hair on their heads--over the table. As for their manner of eating and the

noise they made in doing so, the less said the better. In regard to

manners, I have always felt that the French of 1870-71 were in some

respects quite entitled to call their enemies "barbarians"; but that was

forty-three years ago, and as time works wonders, the manners of the

German military element may have improved.

In saying something about the general appearance of Le Mans, I pointed out

that the town now has a Place de la République, a Gambetta Bridge, a Rue

Thiers, and a statue of Chanzy; but at the period of the war and for a

long time afterwards it detested the Republic (invariably returning

Bonapartist or Orleanist deputies), sneered at Gambetta, and hotly

denounced the commander of the Loire Army. Its grievance against Chanzy

was that he had made it his headquarters and given battle in its immediate

vicinity. The conflict having ended disastrously for the French arms, the

townsfolk lamented that it had ever taken place. Why had Chanzy brought

his army there? they indignantly inquired. He might very well have gone

elsewhere. So strong was this Manceau feeling against the general--a

feeling inspired by the sufferings which the inhabitants experienced at

the time, notably in consequence of the German exactions--that fifteen

years later, when the general's statue (for which there had been a

national subscription) was set up in the town, the displeasure there was

very great, and the monument was subjected to the most shameful

indignities. [At Nouart, his native place, there is another statue of

Chanzy, which shows him pointing towards the east. On the pedestal is the

inscription; "The generals who wish to obtain the bâton of Marshal of

France must seek it across the Rhine"--words spoken by him in one of his

speeches subsequent to the war.] But all that has passed. Nowadays, both

at Auvours and at Pontlieue, there are monuments to those who fell

fighting for France around Le Mans, and doubtless the town, in becoming

more Republican, has become more patriotic also.

Before relating how I escaped from Le Mans on the day when the retreat was

ordered, there are a few other points with which I should like to deal

briefly. It is tolerably well known that I made the English translation of

Emile Zola's great novel, "La Débâcle," and a good many of my present

readers may have read that work either in the original French or in the

version prepared by me. Now, I have always thought that some of the

characters introduced by Zola into his narrative were somewhat

exceptional. I doubt if there were many such absolutely neurotic

degenerates as "Maurice" in the French Army at any period of the war. I

certainly never came across such a character. Again, the psychology of

Stephen Crane's "Red Badge of Courage," published a few years after "La

Débâcle," and received with acclamations by critics most of whom had never

in their lives been under fire, also seems to me to be of an exceptional

character. I much prefer the psychology of the Waterloo episode in

Stendhal's "Chartreuse de Parme," because it is of more general

application. "The Red Badge of Courage," so the critics told us, showed

what a soldier exactly felt and thought in the midst of warfare. Unlike

Stendhal, however, its author had never "served." No more had Zola; and I

feel that many of the pictures which novelists have given us of a

soldier's emotions when in action apply only to exceptional cases, and are

even then somewhat exaggerated.

In action there is no time for thought. The most trying hours for a man

who is in any degree of a sensitive nature are those spent in night-duty

as a sentry or as one of a small party at some lonely outpost. Then

thoughts of home and happiness, and of those one loves, may well arise.

There is one little point in connexion with this subject which I must

mention. Whenever letters were found on the bodies of men who fell during

the Franco-German War, they were, if this man was a Frenchman, more

usually letters from his mother, and, if he was a German, more usually

letters from his sweetheart. Many such letters found their way into print

during the course of the war. It is a well-known fact that a Frenchman's

cult for his mother is a trait of the national character, and that a

Frenchwoman almost always places her child before her husband.

But what struck me particularly during the Franco-German War was that

the anxieties and mental sufferings of the French officers were much

keener than those of the men. Many of those officers were married, some

had young children, and in the silent hours of a lonely night-watch their

thoughts often travelled to their dear ones. I well remember how an

officer virtually unbosomed himself to me on this subject one night near

Yvré-l'Evêque. The reason of it all is obvious. The higher a man's

intelligence, the greater is his sense of responsibility and the force of

his attachments. But in action the latter are set aside; they only obtrude

at such times as I have said or else at the moment of death.

Of actual cowardice there were undoubtedly numerous instances during the

war, but a great deal might be said in defence of many of the men who here

and there abandoned their positions. During the last months their

sufferings were frequently terrible. At best they were often only

partially trained. There was little cohesion in many battalions. There was

a great lack of efficient non-commissioned officers. Instead of drafting

regular soldiers from the _dépôts_ into special regiments, as was often

done, it might have been better to have distributed them among the Mobiles

and Mobilisés, whom they would have steadied. Judging by all that I

witnessed at that period, I consider it essential that any territorial

force should always contain a certain number of trained soldiers who have

previously been in action. And any such force should always have the

support of regulars and of efficient artillery. I have related how certain

Breton Mobilisés abandoned La Tuilerie. They fled before the regulars or

the artillery could support them; but they were, perhaps, the very rawest

levies in all Chanzy's forces. Other Breton Mobilisés, on other points,

fought very well for men of their class. For instance, no reproach could

be addressed to the battalions of St. Brieuo, Brest, Quimper, Lorient, and

Nantes. They were better trained than were the men stationed at La

Tuilerie, and it requires some time to train a Breton properly. That

effected, he makes a good soldier.

Respecting my own feelings during that war, I may say that the paramount

one was curiosity. To be a journalist, a man must be inquisitive. It is

a _sine quâ non_ of his profession. Moreover, I was very young; I had no

responsibilities; I may have been in love, or have thought I was, but I

was on my own, and my chief desire was to see as much as I could. I

willingly admit that, when Gougeard's column was abruptly attacked at

Droué, I experienced some trepidation at finding myself under fire; but

firmness may prove as contagious as fear, and when Gougeard rallied his

men and went forward to repel the Germans, interest and a kind of

excitement took possession of me. Moreover, as I was, at least nominally,

attached to the ambulance service, there was duty to be done, and that

left no opportunity for thought. The pictures of the ambulances in or near

Sedan are among the most striking ones contained in "La Débâcle," and,

judging by what I saw elsewhere, Zola exaggerated nothing. The ambulance

is the truly horrible side of warfare. To see men lying dead on the ground

is, so to say, nothing. One gets used to it. But to see them amputated,

and to see them lying in bed suffering, often acutely, from dreadful

wounds, or horrible diseases--dysentery, typhus, small-pox--that is the

thing which tries the nerves of all but the doctors and the trained

nurses. On several occasions I helped to carry wounded men, and felt no

emotion in doing so; but more than once I was almost overcome by the sight

of all the suffering in some ambulance.

When, on the morning of January 12, I heard that a general retreat had

been ordered, I hesitated as to what course I should pursue. I did not

then anticipate the street-fighting, and the consequent violence of the

Germans. But journalistic instinct told me that if I remained in the town

until after the German entry I might then find it very difficult to get

away and communicate with my people. At the same time, I did not think the

German entry so imminent as proved to be the case; and I spent a

considerable time in the streets watching all the tumult which prevailed

there. Now and again a sadly diminished battalion went by in fairly good

order. But numbers of disbanded men hurried hither and thither in

confusion. Here and there a street was blocked with army vans and waggons,

whose drivers were awaiting orders, not knowing which direction to take.

Officers and estafettes galloped about on all sides. Then a number of

wounded men were carried in carts, on stretchers, and on trucks towards

the railway-station. Others, with their heads bandaged or their arms in

slings, walked painfully in the same direction. Outside the station there

was a strong cordon of Gendarmes striving to resist all the pressure of a

great mob of disbanded men who wished to enter and get away in the trains.

At one moment, when, after quite a struggle, some of the wounded were

conveyed through the mob and the cordon, the disbanded soldiers followed,

and many of them fought their way into the station in spite of all the

efforts of the Gendarmes. The _mêlée_ was so desperate that I did not

attempt to follow, but, after watching it for some time, retraced my steps

towards my lodging. All was hubbub and confusion at the little inn, and

only with difficulty could I get anything to eat there. A little later,

however, I managed to tell the landlord--his name was Dubuisson--that I

meant to follow the army, and, if possible, secure a place in one of the

trains which were frequently departing. After stowing a few necessaries

away in my pockets, I begged him to take charge of my bag until some

future day, and the worthy old man then gave me some tips as to how I

might make my way into the station, by going a little beyond it, and

climbing a palisade.

My Days of Adventure The Fall of France, 1870-71 · 第 20 / 23 段