CHAPTER XIII.

Returning from Australia we touched at Colombo, where my companion and a

friend paid an interesting visit to Arabi, who invited them to dine with

him. It soon became evident that intercourse would have to be conducted

through interpreters, as Arabi understood neither French nor English, and

his visitors were ignorant of Arabic.

My friend was an invalid, and the first dish put on the table caused him

great anxiety, as it was one which his medical man had given him strict

orders to avoid. What was to be done? My companion explained to the

invalid that in the East no greater affront could be given to a host than

to decline to partake of what was offered, and so, not having provided

himself with Jack the Giant Killer's device for disposing of surplus

food, he was fain to eat it, not without certain fearful forebodings.

Arabi's personal appearance had greatly altered, he having grown a beard

which was turning grey. At the table with him were his two sons, lads

apparently of ten and twelve years respectively. On his left sat Fehmi

Pasha, a man of very striking appearance with a face indicating

considerable intellectual power. Arabi desired to know what the English

thought of him, a question which my companion parried by saying the

English always respected a brave man. Rising to take leave of the host,

my companion patted the head of the eldest boy in a kindly manner. This

seemed to move Arabi in a singular way. He rose and said, in a sharp

tone of command, to his boys, "Salaam," then, crossing the room and

placing his hand on my companion's shoulder, said with some emotion, "Ah,

ah, good, good."

Proceeding on our voyage we called at Aden, a dreadful place, without a

single redeeming feature, in European eyes. Those of our countrymen who

are compelled to reside here in the service of the country are entitled

to the deepest sympathy of every Englishman. The possession of Aden is

of considerable importance to England and to India, both as a coaling

station and as a military post, although in the latter respect it is of

less importance than formerly. The islands commanding the channels at

the entrance to the Red Sea are after all the key to the position, one of

the most important being the Island of Perim, the acquisition of which

does more credit to the _'cuteness_ of the British commander at Aden than

to his sense of honour--that is, if the story told of him be true. It is

related that one evening, nearly forty years ago, two French war-ships

cast anchor before Aden, and the English governor with a laudable desire

to ascertain the object of their visit invited the commanders of the

ships to dinner. Unfortunately for France the officers were not

teetotallers, and the weather being hot and the British commander's wine

strong, the gallant Frenchmen's tongues were loosened, and the perfidious

Englishman ascertained that the mission with which his guests were

charged was no less than the occupation of the Island of Perim in the

name of Louis Philippe, King of the French!

[Picture: Adenese Women]

Without losing a moment the governor sent orders to the captain of the

English gunboat lying at Aden to proceed with all speed and in the

strictest secrecy to take possession of the island in the name of the

Queen! The sun had risen before the festivities at the governor's

residence had ceased, and then with many bows his guests departed to

their ships, and shortly afterwards left Aden for their destination. On

arrival, their astonishment and mortification may be imagined when they

saw on the highest point on the island the British flag flying, and the

gunboat which they had seen at Aden on the previous day anchored close

inshore. The incident gave occasion for much tall talk at the time on

the part of the fiery French colonels, and, not without reason, I fear,

gave fresh life to the cry of "Perfidious Albion."

We arrived at Suez in the third week of February, and as soon as our

steamer stopped, our old dragoman Hassan came on board with a huge packet

of letters for us, and although he had only seen us once before, three

years ago, he not only remembered our names but came straight to us and

told us he had brought a boat for our use, and that bedrooms were engaged

for us at the hotel. We owed all this attention--which was most

seasonable, as I was still suffering from the effects of a malarious

fever contracted in Australia--to Messrs. Cook and Son, who had been

advised of my coming, and here I will say that in Egypt and Syria the

name of "Cook" is the talisman which solves all difficulties and robs

travelling of nearly all its inconveniences.

On landing we were forcibly struck with the altered demeanour of the

people since our previous visit. On that occasion landing was effected

under the greatest difficulties. The people seemed to look upon us as

fair prey. It was almost impossible for us to keep our luggage together,

and the insolent threatening manner in which _backsheesh_ was demanded

was not a little disturbing to those who were visiting an eastern country

for the first time. But now all was changed; instead of idle excited

crowds loitering everywhere, everyone seemed to be engaged in some work,

_backsheesh_ was rarely asked for, and always in subdued tones, and one

refusal was enough. Even the donkey boys had been reached, for when

their proffered services were declined they went away with a "thank you."

The Suez Hotel is kept by an Englishman, and he informed us that during

the war he left it in charge of natives, and found everything safe and in

order on his return.

On the following day we proceeded by railway to Cairo, _via_ Ismailia and

Tel-el-Kebir. At many of the stations British soldiers were on guard, a

part of their duty appearing to be the inspection of the natives'

baggage; this was done amidst much good humour on both sides--indeed, all

through Egypt the British soldier seemed to be on the best possible terms

with the people, as indeed there is every reason why he should be, for it

is certain he has been the means of saving the people of Egypt from a

tyranny of the worst kind--the tyranny of rapacious pachas, civil and

military. With the usual exclusiveness of our nation, our party of four

had arranged to have the whole of the compartment of the railway-carriage

to ourselves. It is true we paid extra for the convenience, but at one

of the stations, the train being very crowded, two Frenchmen endeavoured

to enter, being prevented, however, by the Arab conductor. The

Frenchmen, with much gesticulation and great volubility, pointed out to

the Arab that there were only four persons in the carriage, whereas it

was constructed to take eight; the guard insisted that there were eight

persons in the compartment, although it was patent to all that there were

only four. "Four!" said the Frenchmen. "Eight!" returned the guard,

giving us a most wicked wink, which, however, failed to extort

_backsheesh_. Ultimately our would-be companions were safely bestowed

elsewhere.

The railway passes by the field of Tel-el-Kebir, the entrenchments

stretching as far as the eye can reach. When my companion went over the

ground a few weeks after the battle it was covered with debris of every

kind, clothing, arms, ammunition, and other ghastly indications of a

battle-field.

In one of the entrenchments my friend found a leaf torn from the New

Testament, while only a yard or two away was a leaf from the Koran, and

hard by he picked up a letter written in Arabic, addressed to a soldier

on the field, requesting him to authorise the writer to collect his rents

in Cairo.

On reaching the station of Tel-el-Kebir we found a number of tourists who

had come up from Cairo to gather curiosities from the battle-field, but

since my friend's visit in the autumn everything had been cleared off,

and the new comers were gathering pebbles (!) as mementoes of the famous

engagement.

The little grave-yard in which the British troops are buried is situated

near to the station, and appeared to be kept in excellent order.

In Cairo, as in Suez, the absence of the feverish excitement, latent

insolence, and spirit of unrest, so apparent during our last visit, was

very noticeable. There, too, _backsheesh_ was rarely demanded, and most

of the people seemed to have something to do.

It was curious to see the English soldiers lounging about the town in all

directions. They seemed to be quite at home. One of them informed me he

had gone through the Transvaal campaign, but very much preferred the land

of Goshen!

While we were in Cairo we often expressed our wonder that the city was

ever free from cholera or some other deadly epidemic. The sanitary

condition of the streets and public places was shocking in the extreme.

Fronting the Opera House and the great hotels and Government offices are

the extensive Ezbekiyeh public gardens, enclosed with iron railings.

Around the outside is a very handsome paved footpath, which, although in

the very heart of the city, is in many places utterly impassable because

of the unspeakable horrors accumulated upon it. If the English

occupation of Egypt does nothing more than cause the towns of that

country to be properly cleansed, it will be the means of saving as many

lives every few years as were lost in the late campaign.

There are two classes of people who undoubtedly view the British

occupation of Egypt with great and well-founded dislike--the military

party and the pachas. These classes have always played into each other's

hands, and always at the expense of the down-trodden and patient

fellaheen--the backbone and mainstay of the country. For the latter

class the presence of the British army is an almost unmixed blessing.

From time immemorial the desirability of connecting the Mediterranean and

Red Seas by a canal has been fully recognised; but the work does not

appear to have been attempted before the reign of Pharaoh Necho, who

undertook to construct a canal between the Nile and the Red Sea. In

carrying out this work 120,000 Egyptians perished, and before it was

completed the King abandoned it, having been informed by the Oracle that

the foreigners alone would profit by the work. Eventually the canal was

completed under the rule of Darius the Persian, and of the Ptolemies.

The canal was carried through the lakes Balah and Menzaleh, another

branch being constructed to the Bitter Lakes, into which the fresh water

canal--watering the land of Goshen--emptied itself; but owing to the

constant state of war it fell into decay, and was abandoned.

Many suggestions as to the reopening of the waterway have been made in

almost every generation since. Bonaparte, during his expedition to Egypt

in 1798, even caused the preliminary works to be undertaken. His chief

engineer surveyed the ground, but, owing to a serious miscalculation,

threw great doubt on the possibility of carrying out the work. He

estimated the level of the Red Sea to be nearly 33ft. higher than that of

the Mediterranean, an idea that Leibnitz ridiculed nearly a century

before. Vigorous protests against Lepere's theory were not wanting, but

it was, nevertheless, sufficient to cause the abandonment of the scheme

until Monsieur Lesseps directed his attention to the matter. On his

appointment as an Attache to the French Mission, Lesseps had to undergo a

lengthy quarantine at Alexandria; here he was supplied with books by his

Consul, among them being Lepere's memoirs respecting the scheme for

connecting the two seas, the effect of which upon the young Frenchman's

mind was never effaced.

In 1847 a Commission of Engineers demonstrated the inaccuracy of Lepere's

observations, and proved that the level of the two seas was practically

the same. In 1854 Lesseps having matured his plan laid it before the

Viceroy, who determined to carry it out. Palmerston, then premier, did

his utmost, from political motives, to thwart the enterprise; but early

in 1856 permission was given to commence the work.

Considerable difficulty was experienced in raising the capital, but on

the 25th April, 1858, operations were actually begun. The Viceroy

undertook to pay many of the current expenses, and provided 25,000

workmen, who were to be paid and fed by the Company at an inexpensive

rate, and were to be relieved every three months. In order to provide

these men with water 4,000 casks suitable for being carried on camels had

to be made, and 1,600 of these animals were daily employed in bringing

supplies, at a cost of 320 per day.

At the end of December, 1863, the Fresh Water Canal was completed, by

which the Company was relieved of the enormous expense of supplying the

workmen with water.

On the 18th March, 1869, the water of the Mediterranean was allowed to

flow into the nearly dry salt-incrusted basins of the Bitter Lakes, some

parts of which lay forty feet below the level of the Mediterranean, while

others required extensive dredging operations. The Bitter Lakes have

been identified with the Marah of the Bible (Exodus xv., 23--"And when

they came to Marah, they could not drink of the waters of Marah for they

were bitter"). The captain of our vessel informed me that in these lakes

the saltness, and consequently the density, of the water is such as to

cause the vessel to rise five inches above the ordinary waterline.

The cost of constructing the Canal amounted to about 19,000,000, more

than a third of which was contributed by the Khedive. The original

capital of the company in 400,000 shares amounted to 8,000,000, the

difference being raised by loans payable at fixed intervals, and adding

an annual burden to the scheme of 451,000. The festivities connected

with the opening of the Canal in 1869 cost the Khedive--that is to say

the taxpayer of Egypt--14,200,000, or more than half the total capital!

The great mercantile importance of the Canal is apparent from the

following data:--Between London and Bombay forty-four per cent. of the

distance is saved by through-going ships; between London and Hong Kong

twenty-eight per cent., and between Marseilles and Bombay fifty-nine per

cent. Over eighty per cent. of the trade passing through the Canal is

done in British vessels, and in 1875--or six years after the Canal was

opened--the English traffic was equal to twelve times that of the French.

In 1870, 486 steamers, representing 493,911 tons, passed through the

canal, and in 1882 these figures had risen to 3,198 steamers with

7,125,000 tons. (_Baedeker_).

From Port Said the Canal runs in a nearly straight line to Kantara (a

mere group of sheds), its course lying across the shallow lagoon-like

Lake Menzaleh, which has an average depth of only three feet. The

embankments are low, irregular sand-banks, formed of the dredged

material, and having at the margin of the water a coarse growth of

straggling sedgy-looking vegetation. After passing Kantara, the Balah

Lakes are reached, and the course is marked out in their open surface by

a double line of buoys. Then the most difficult portion of the original

work is reached--viz., the cutting of El Guisr, which is six miles long,

the depth from ground-level to surface of water being about forty-five

feet. This is by far the highest land in the Isthmus. Leaving the El

Guisr cutting, the open waters of Lake Timsah, (_Crocodile Lake_) are

reached, and far away across its blue mirror-like surface stretches the

double line of buoys, marking out the track. On the northern shore of

the lake, buried in a delightful mass of vegetation, lies the French town

of Ismailia, once the great centre from which operations during the

construction of the Canal were conducted, and now one of the principal

stations whence its navigation is controlled by means of telegraph. Lake

Timsah has an area of some six or seven square miles, and the huge fleet

of war vessels, transports, and tenders which Lord Wolseley used as a

base for his operations in the late campaign lay there without

difficulty. From Lake Timsah the Suez Canal holds a roughly parallel

course with the Freshwater Canal and the Suez line of railway, and passes

through a long cutting into the Bitter Lakes, an extremely tame and

uninteresting sheet of water some fifteen miles long, with flat, low,

sandy banks, and thence into another long cutting--some twenty-six feet

deep at Shalouf--after which the flat sandy plains of Suez are traversed,

and the head of the gulf reached.

The impression is general that the Suez Canal is cut through immense

deposits of sand, or sand and water, but this is quite erroneous. The

desert, it is true, is sandy and sterile, but the sand is quite

superficial, covering a gypseous clay, not at all difficult to work in.

From Balah to the Bitter Lakes there is fine muddy sand, with clay at

intervals, and at Serapeum a rocky barrier. From the Bitter Lakes to

Suez, however, there is a good clay, with limestone at Shalouf. The

sinuosities in the Canal are such as to render the passage of vessels

over 400 feet long somewhat difficult. It was expected that these curves

would prevent the washing away of the banks, but it is doubtful whether

they have at all contributed to the preservation of the sandy

embankments. Indeed, most of the predictions of the early destruction of

the Canal by the operation of natural causes have been proved to be as

ill-founded as such predictions generally are. The banks have no

ill-regulated propensity for crumbling away. The Canal is _not_ in

perpetual and imminent danger of being silted-up. The enormous and

costly dredging operations that were to swallow more than the revenue of

the undertaking are unknown, and the sole matter for regret is that the

Canal was not made as wide again as it is, for the accommodation of the

vast traffic it has created. Among the many confident prophesies made by

professional engineers of the day, one stands recorded in the technical

papers to the effect that every vessel must necessarily be towed through

the Canal, the explanation being that the regulation speed of five miles

per hour was not sufficient to afford steering "way"; hence, said the

prophet, the slightest wind across the line of the Canal must infallibly

blow ashore any vessel whose commander should have the temerity to

attempt to steam between the two seas. Experience, however, has shown

that the largest vessels are under perfect command when propelled by

their own engines.

It is impossible for anyone to pass through the Canal without being

impressed with the urgent necessity for vastly increased accommodation

for the constantly augmenting traffic. The delays occasioned by the

difficulties in coaling, the blocks in the Canal--caused sometimes by the

enormous traffic, and sometimes by the sinking of a ship across the

narrow channel--are most vexatious. No less than five days elapsed

between the time of the arrival of our steamer at Port Said and of its

departure from Suez, a distance of less than one hundred miles.

In every way it is most unfortunate for English commerce that--thanks to

the mulish obstinacy of Lord Palmerston--the management of the Canal

should have been thrown into the hands of Frenchmen; for, while according

the highest meed of praise to M. de Lesseps for his genius, tenacity of

purpose, and energy, in designing and carrying out such a vast

undertaking in the teeth of obstacles which would have daunted most men,

it is impossible to ignore the fact that, as compared with English

traffic-managers, the French officials responsible for the working of the

Canal are vastly inferior in capacity. The spirit of officialism as

displayed by a liberal use of red tape, and a certain non-elasticity in

carrying out the laws, so familiar to all travellers in France, exists in

an intensified form in the local management of the Canal. To the

ordinary traveller through the Canal, for example, it seems absurd that

vessels should be stopped for the night while some hours of light remain,

yet as soon as the sun goes down no further advance can be made. Again,

although daylight comes long before sunrise, it is forbidden to move till

the sun is up. Then again, experience shows that by the use of the

electric light the largest vessels can be handled with the utmost ease.

An electric light fixed in the foremast of a ship sweeps the Canal from

bank to bank, and for all practical purposes gives a light equal to that

of day; it seems strange, therefore, that vessels possessing such

appliances should not be permitted to proceed during the night. If one

ventures to make such a suggestion to a Canal official, he at once

replies that the rules laid down for the regulation of the traffic forbid

night passages, and if one further ventures to remind him that the said

rules were made before the introduction of electric lighting, he shrugs

his shoulders and plainly intimates that you have tried his patience long

enough.

A little delegation of authority from the chief office to the pilot or

other Canal official on board the ships would at once result in a vast

diminution of delay, and consequently in an increase to the capability of

the Canal, but the genius of French administration appears to be opposed

to the granting of any latitude or freedom of action to inferior

officials, and so in the administration of the Canal everything is done

by the official at the chief office in Ismailia, who transmits his orders

by telegraph.

But, after all the practicable improvements in the navigation of the

present Canal have been made, the necessity for a new one will be no less

urgent, and it is especially unfortunate that the Conservative party

should have made negotiations with M. de Lesseps so difficult by openly

suggesting that we should use our accidental supremacy in Egypt to

advance the national interests, without regard to the rights possessed by

him. Whatever the actual status of M. de Lesseps, under his concession,

may be, it is clear that he has always considered he had a monopoly. At

the outset he endeavoured to enlist British sympathy and capital in his

undertaking by demonstrating that the bulk of the traffic must

necessarily come from English sources. Was it probable, therefore, he

would have spent the Company's capital in making the Canal if, after

having demonstrated its success, an English company were at liberty to

make another, alongside, and take away four-fifths of its traffic?

In business matters the French are proverbially short-sighted. They fail

to see that "three sixpences are better than one shilling," and are

consequently unwilling to surrender present advantages without an

absolute certainty of an early and great benefit arising from their doing

so. They are much more truly a nation of retailers or shopkeepers than

the English are, notwithstanding Napoleon's famous epithet. What is

wanted is a greater breadth of view in the administration of the Canal,

and it is in this respect that it is particularly unfortunate there is

not a larger English representation on the Board of Management. If we

had a representation equal to our share of the capital, the result would

soon be apparent in the adoption of a line of policy giving the utmost

facilities to the Canal's customers, to the great advantage of both.

The recent discussions upon the Suez Canal question cannot fail to be of

the greatest use to the Government when they reopen negotiations with M.

de Lesseps, and if the latter finds it impossible to make another canal

without a further concession of land, he may probably think it advisable

to conciliate his partner and chief customer by making greater

concessions in return for the influence of the British Government with

that of the Khedive and the Sultan on his behalf.

But even if no further advantages for British commerce be obtained from

the Canal Company, this country occupies a unique position as regards

communication with the East. In less than fifteen years the whole of the

original cost of the British shares, both principal and interest, will

have been paid out of profits, and the Chancellor of the Exchequer of the

day will have to decide as to the destination of the revenue which the

shares produce. It appears to me that, after making provision for the

necessary expenses attending the administration of the property, it would

be both just and politic to return the balance to the owners of the ships

whose use of the Canal has been the means of creating the revenue. If

this course be adopted British commerce will be immensely benefited, for

our ships will be able to use the Canal at a little more than half the

expense falling upon those of other nations, and this great advantage

will have been obtained without having cost the British taxpayer a single

penny. The money will simply be returned into the hands which

contributed it, and the proposal, therefore, does not in any way partake

of the character of a bounty.

What is known as the Dual Control was established in 1879. By it the

British and French Controllers-General were invested with considerable

powers over the administration of the finances, in addition to which the

Khedive undertook to assign a certain portion of the revenue for the

discharge of the national obligations.

In the following year a Law of Liquidation, as drawn up by the

Commissioners appointed for the purpose, was issued with the agreement of

all the interested European Powers.

In return for these concessions, the Foreign Bondholders made a

compromise with the Egyptian Government involving the surrender of a

considerable portion of their claims. This settlement, while relieving

the country from an enormous burden, placed it in a position to meet its

liabilities and to progress in the development of its resources, and, in

the language of Lord Granville in his despatch to Lord Dufferin, "it was

undoubtedly working well for the material prosperity of the country, and

promised to do so for the future;" and in a subsequent despatch the

Foreign Secretary declared that, through the action of the Control, great

advantages had been secured for the natives, such as "the spread of

education, the abolition of vexatious taxation, the establishment of the

land-tax on a regular and equitable basis, and the diminution of forced

labour."

Our dragoman, an intelligent Copt, fully corroborated Lord Granville's

statement. He said that all that the Egyptian people required was

moderate taxation, certainty as to its amount and as to the time of its

collection, and such a military law as would relieve them from the

press-gang. He further said that before the institution of the Control,

whenever the Khedive wanted a new ironclad, or a new palace, or half a

dozen additional inmates for his harem, he ordered a new tax to be

levied; this tax was sold to some of the rapacious pachas about the

Palace, and resold by them to professional tax-gatherers. These wretches

committed the greatest atrocities upon the miserable fellaheen, exacting

the uttermost farthing under the threat, and often the actual

application, of torture; "but now," said my informant, "although the

taxes are heavy, their amount is known, and they are collected in coin

after the harvest has been gathered."

The country was becoming very prosperous, and there was a surplus in the

Treasury when, in February, 1881, a military riot broke out, originating

in the arrest of certain Egyptian officers, among whom was the Colonel of

the 1st Regiment. The officers of this regiment broke into the Council

Room of the Ministry of War, ill-treated the Minister, and then, having

released the prisoners, proceeded to the Khedive's Palace, followed by

the men of the regiment. In menacing tones they demanded the dismissal

of the Minister of War, and redress for their grievances. Arabi Bey was

one of the chief actors in this revolt. The Khedive was compelled to

submit, the mutinous colonels were reinstated, and tranquillity was

restored for the time.

The army officers were not long, however, in showing what their principal

object was, for in a few weeks after the revolt, decrees were issued

increasing the pay of the army and navy to the extent of nearly 60,000 a

year. The Controllers-General had now become aware that everything was

at the disposal of the military party, and that the Minister could not

guarantee that the officers would not next day insist upon fresh

financial concessions. The next demand made by the colonels was that

nominations to vacant posts in regiments should rest with them, and this

was granted. The object of all this was clear enough--indeed, Arabi

declared at one of the meetings of the Commission that "he would not

yield unconditional obedience to the War Minister." As time went on

fresh symptoms of disaffection broke out, all indicating the

determination of the military party to throw off all control and

restraint. In September the Ministry was dismissed at the instance of

these same men, who throughout the remainder of the year continued a

harassing series of turbulent outbreaks, gradually increasing in

audacity, and more and more trenching upon matters of administration.

They went so far as to demand an increase in the army, involving an

annual addition to the estimates of 280,000, although the Controllers

declared that not nearly half that amount was available.

The principal figure in all these outbreaks was Arabi, who steadily kept

himself at the head of the disaffected party, and gradually increased his

influence. After being appointed Under Secretary of War, then Chief

Secretary, he was described by Sir E. Malet as having become "Arbiter of

the destinies of the country." In March he was made Pasha, and the

Khedive was compelled to assent to a number of promotions by Arabi, who

insisted on dispensing with the examination required by law for officers.

In a word, the real power had become vested in the chiefs of the military

party, and the objects of those chiefs were showing themselves more and

more evidently to be, increase of the army, increase of pay and promotion

of a large number of officers to high military rank--the desire of all

such men in every country of the world.

In the following month Arabi caused numerous arrests to be made among the

officers and soldiery in consequence of an alleged conspiracy to murder

him. Among the prisoners was the Minister of War, who had been dismissed

at the demand of the mutinous regiments in the previous February. The

prisoners were tried by a court-martial--irregularly constituted--and the

proceedings were kept secret, while no counsel were allowed for the

defence. It was generally believed that torture had been used to extort

confession. Forty officers were condemned to exile for life to the

farthest limits of the Soudan. The Khedive, with great courage, refused

to sanction the sentence, and issued a decree commuting it to simple

banishment from Egypt.

In the meantime the excitement continued to increase, and the Governments

of France and England decided to send a naval force to Alexandria for the

protection of the interests of their subjects in Egypt. The combined

fleet arrived at Alexandria on the 20th of May. On June 11th the great

riot and massacre of Europeans took place, Arabi in the meanwhile

erecting new earthworks and strengthening the forts, in spite of his

repeated assurances to the contrary. On July 11th, the French fleet

having withdrawn, and twenty-four hours' notice having expired, Admiral

Seymour opened fire on the forts, and after a few hours completely

silenced them; not, however, without his ships having suffered

considerably in the encounter.

The above is a sketch of Arabi's career from the time of his first coming

into public notice to the time when he became Dictator. He was at no

pains to conceal his character as a military adventurer, and every

successive step in his career proves him to have been no other. It is

true that during the last few weeks he appeared to carry the country with

him, which, however, is not difficult to account for, seeing that he was

"master of the legions," and that detachments of the army had been sent

out into the highways and byways to compel men to come in at the point of

the bayonet. In ordinary times it is no uncommon thing to see a

chain-gang going through the streets of Egyptian towns composed, not of

criminals, but of unhappy wretches brought in by the press-gang for

service in the army, and should any of them falter in their steps through

weariness or despair, the heavy stick of the driver is always ready to

descend upon their shoulders. The only effect of the success of the

movement headed by Arabi would have been the perpetuation and extension

of this terrible state of things; and yet this is the man who has been

persistently held up to the admiration of the world as a pure-minded

patriot by a large section of what is called the Peace Party in England.

In the towns Arabi and his agents worked upon the cupidity of the lower

orders by telling them that he intended to drive the foreigners into the

sea, and that their property should be given over to a general loot. In

the country districts, where the fellaheen are ground down under the heel

of the usurer--always a foreigner, as the Koran forbids usury--Arabi

promised to cancel the village debts, and banish the usurers; {259a}

while in Upper Egypt, where usury is less common, he appealed to

Mohammedan fanaticism. But nowhere did he appeal to a national

sentiment, {259b} until, indeed, by various devices, he had become

absolute master of the country, when perhaps he thought he might say

_L'Etat, c'est moi_.

Reminiscences of Travel in Australia, America, and Egypt · 第 13 / 14 章