Friday being the Mohammedan Sabbath we devoted this day to the Dancing
and Howling Dervishes, as they hold their principal _zikr_ or ceremonial
on that day. We first visited the convent of the dancing Dervishes and
witnessed one of their performances, and certainly a curious spectacle it
was. In the centre of the room a space of about 50ft. in diameter is
railed off, and about twenty solemn-looking men in hats like the tall
"tile" without brims are sitting opposite the door. They looked like a
lot of ancient "Friends" at the head of a meeting. In the gallery above
were some musicians, one of whom was playing a flute in a melancholy
manner, and another reciting a prayer. At a certain point the Dervishes
within the circle bow and rise, and taking off their outer garments begin
walking round the enclosure with solemn steps and slow, headed by the
Chief Priest or Sheik. On passing the carpet upon which the Sheik has
been sitting they turn and bow, and this is repeated two or three times;
then they go into the middle of the enclosure, spreading out their
garments like ladies in the old minuet; the music quickens, and they
begin to whirl around on one foot, occasionally touching the ground with
the other. The performers' eyes are closed (or appear to be so), but
they keep on in perfect order--never touching one another--while the old
Priest walks about among them. Some of the more experienced Dervishes
can revolve fifty or sixty times a minute, keeping it up for nearly half
an hour. It was a curious proceeding altogether, and, for a wonder, no
_backsheesh_ was demanded, the Priests being supported by endowments and
occasional gifts from the Khedive. Mounting our donkeys we rode off to
the Howling Dervishes, where we found them in full howl. About twenty of
them were engaged in making the most hideous noise imaginable. These
fellows had their hair very long and shaggy, and threw it about their
heads in the wildest manner. Every time they raise their heads they
utter the word _HU_ (God alone), which sounds like the yell of a wild
beast, at times the excitement rising to such a height that some of them
would foam at the mouth and fall to the ground apparently in a fit. They
wound up their proceedings with a prolonged howl and a deep grunt. These
Dervishes, like their dancing brethren, are supported by Government
endowment.
I have no doubt that when first instituted these "pious orgies" were
entered upon with a due sense of solemnity, and I believe in places
remote from the regular tourist route the religious feeling still
predominates, but the Howling and Dancing Dervishes in Cairo have long
since become one of the regular sights to which foreign visitors are
always taken.
Upon the occasion of our visit there were several clergymen present, more
than one artist, and a number of ladies, amongst the latter being a
placid looking Quaker, who, with hands folded before her, was calmly
surveying the "creaturely activity" of the Howling enthusiasts.
We afterwards paid a visit to Miss Whateley's Schools, at the British
Mission. There are over 300 native children here, and we heard many of
them read in English and French, and also do some exercises in
translation. The girls were engaged in embroidering, reading, and
writing, and they sang two hymns in Arabic while we stayed. Then we saw
them muster for the recess, and a bright little fellow stepped out into
the middle of the hall and repeated the Lord's Prayer, first in English
and then in Arabic, after which they went out in a most orderly manner.
Miss Whateley seems much encouraged at the result of her many years'
labours; but I have no doubt she has had her times of discouragement. My
wife visited an Arab school in Syria, the superintendent of which told
her that after two years' continuous labour amongst the people of his
district, the result was so unsatisfactory that he was greatly
discouraged and was inclined to abandon the mission. Calling the people
together he told them of his disappointment, and said that although he
had worked diligently amongst them for so long a time, they appeared to
be no better than before, and that he felt that he must leave them. The
people, who had received many benefits from him in various ways, began to
be seriously alarmed, and entreated him to try them yet again. One man
got up in the meeting and said, "Teacher, you must not go, you have made
us much better. When you came first there was a woman living near who
used to steal all the fowls in her neighbourhood, but now," he said,
"_she only steals the eggs_." The superintendent's features somewhat
relaxed on hearing this, and the quick-witted Arabs immediately
perceiving their advantage, renewed their appeals, a woman rising and
saying, "Teacher, when you came first my neighbour's son used to thrash
his mother every day, but since he has been at your school he only
thrashes her once a month." The superintendent remained, and is well
satisfied with the progress which has since been made.
In the afternoon we went for a drive in the Shubra Avenue, which is the
Rotten Row of Cairo. The custom is to drive quickly up one side,
returning slowly on the other, the drive occupying an hour. The Khedive
drove past us in his carriage, preceded by two magnificent fellows
(_sais_) whose duty it is to run in front of the carriage. They were
dressed in gorgeous gold tissue waistcoats, long white skirts, a silk
sash of many colours round the waist, a fez with long tassel, legs and
feet bare, and in the hand a handsome staff. These men run quite as fast
as the horses, keep up the pace for a couple of hours, and are employed
to clear the crowded streets for the carriages. This they do by shouting
loudly in a fine resonant voice, which is very effectual. The avenue was
crowded with carriages, some of them containing ladies of the harem.
Their carriages have windows all round.
[Picture: A Runner, or Sais]
Some of the ladies are shrouded as for burial; others leave only the eyes
uncovered, while some (the prettiest, presumably) wear only thin gauze
veils, through which their faces are plainly to be seen. All wear the
same languishing expression, and appear to be very fond of peeping at the
Europeans, and as we passed and repassed them they would recognise us
with a smile, and then, to save appearances, turn away. When we passed
the guard-house the soldiers turned out, thinking it was the Khedive's
carriage, and drew up in saluting order.
[Picture: In Shubra Avenue]
They were greatly disgusted on discovering their mistake. At four
o'clock a general stampede of carriages, horsemen, runners, and
pedestrians takes place, and the road is soon quite deserted.
One of the features of Cairene life is the universal use of donkeys by
all classes of the people; ancient women shrouded from head to foot in
black gauze, old men with long grey beards, and noses not much
shorter--their heads wrapped in turbans, and robes covering the donkeys'
backs--jogging along, rubbing against the British tourist, the latter
looking anything but grave and serious on his Jerusalem pony. Our party
certainly did not look more _bizarre_ than others; but we should not feel
inclined to enter Birmingham in the same state as we often entered and
left Cairo.
[Picture: Water Carriers]
One morning we got up early for a donkey-ride across the Nile to see,
amongst other things, the garden and farm produce arrive from the country
round. Crossing the Nile we turned down a fine avenue of sycamores, two
or three miles long. The Khedive's gardens lie on one side and the river
at the other. Moored to the river bank was an Englishman's _dahabieh_ or
Nile boat. A party had just returned from the cataracts, and on the
upper deck we observed a dead crocodile. Riding by one palace towards
another, we passed a crowd of people on their way to market, with
bullocks, goats, camels laden with clover, women with the round cakes so
common here, and a great variety of other things. Presently we sighted
the Pyramids, one side lit up with the morning sun, while another was in
deep shadow. The Sphinx was also plainly to be seen.
Leaving the Gizeh Road leading to the Pyramids we turned towards Cairo,
our donkeys instantly knowing that we were homeward-bound, and needing no
persuasion to gallop back to breakfast. On nearing the bridge we came
upon hosts of camels, donkeys, and oxen laden with produce, and being
assessed for the octroi or town-tax. The police were armed with long
spikes, which they pushed into the load to ascertain if anything else was
packed inside. It was an interesting scene--the busy crowd, the
magnificent river, and the brilliant morning sunshine making up a picture
not easily forgotten.
One of the most interesting drives in the neighbourhood of Cairo is to
Heliopolis--part of the way lying through a fine avenue of acacias--and
passing the old camping ground used as a _rendezvous_ by the Mecca
pilgrims. It is the old caravan road, and stretches far away into the
desert, from which came to us a delightfully fresh breeze. We also
passed the Abbaseyeh Palace, built by Abbas Pasha, who, fearing
assassination, lived here in seclusion, keeping sentinels on the towers
to give warning of the approach of a mob, and
[Picture: The Tombs of the Khalifs]
dromedaries and fleet horses always ready saddled for escape into the
desert. He was, however, murdered at last in spite of all his
precautions.
Along the road are some beautiful plantations of palms, oranges, and
lemons, castor-oil and other plants growing in the greatest luxuriance.
Heaps of oranges were lying on the ground. After driving through a fine
olive plantation we came out upon an extensive plain, where, in 1517,
Sultan Selim defeated the last of the Mameluke Dynasty, and made Egypt a
Turkish province. Here too, in 1800, the French defeated the Turks and
regained possession of Cairo. Our guide called a halt in order to show
us a fine old sycamore, called the virgin's tree, under which Joseph and
Mary are said to have rested during their flight into Egypt. I asked
Abaid if he believed the story. Placing his hand upon his heart and
bowing his head, he replied, with something of the sententiousness of a
Dr. Johnson, "Sir, I am a Christian!" I felt inclined to tell him that I
also was a Christian, but that I did not believe it; but then why should
I disturb his honest belief? Soon the obelisk of Heliopolis came in
view, and we knew we were near it by the crowd of youngsters swarming
round the carriage. But I adopted my old plan of being the first to ask
for _backsheesh_, causing them to laugh so heartily that they could
hardly take up the cry.
The obelisk is about 6ft. square at the base and about 68ft. high; it is
the oldest in Egypt, and was erected by the founder of the twelfth
dynasty. The inscriptions on its four sides give its history and the
account of its erection about 3,000 B.C.
[Picture: A Street in Bulak]
Heliopolis was called Bethshemish by the Jews, and in Exodus is called
ON. It was here that Joseph married Asenath, the daughter of Potipherah,
and where Moses became learned in the wisdom of the Egyptians. Here
Plato and Herodotus studied, and Josephus says--"The city was given to
the Children of Israel as their residence when they came down into
Egypt." The obelisk, as we see it, was old when Abraham came into the
country; but, notwithstanding its venerable age and intensely interesting
associations, it has not been too sacred for tourists who have been
caught chipping pieces off the edges.
After lunch we drove to Bulak, an interesting suburb of Cairo. The
houses are very old, and the street-scenes very curious and thoroughly
Eastern in character. The large overhanging windows and casements
familiar in pictures are everywhere to be seen, and now and then a
glimpse of a female face is caught peeping furtively out at the
passers-by. The streets are very narrow, and the coachman yells and
shouts at the foot-passengers in his way, not scrupling to apply the whip
to quicken their movements. All this is taken patiently--far too much
so--and betrays the saddest side of Egyptian character, speaking volumes
for the way in which the people have been treated.
Hard by was a curious sight. Standing against a wall, and raised above
the level of the street like another Simon Stylites, was a
strange-looking man, whose only raiment consisted of a sack, through a
hole in which one arm was thrust. In his hand he held a small instrument
like a garden-rake, with which he tortured his back, while his gaze
"seemed upon the future bent." Some irreverent tourists looking on were
presently moved to laughter at the peculiar exhibition, upon which the
holy man gave them one glance of wonder and pity, and then resumed his
gaze into futurity.
[Picture: A Holy Fakir]
It being fair-day, there were a large number of booths, cheap theatres,
peep-shows, merry-go-rounds, etc., just as one sees in England. In
another place was a story-teller, surrounded by an appreciative audience,
who treated every "point" with loud laughter. It was curious to see how
earnest and interested they all were, and the dramatic manner in which
the story was told.
The National Museum for Egyptian antiquities, founded by Mariette Bey, is
situated in Bulak. Our time being short, we proposed paying it another
visit, which, however, we were unfortunately unable to do. Much of the
sculpture is really marvellous in its life-like character. One of the
most remarkable statues is of wood, and is said to be 4,000 years old.
It is admirably carved. There is also a large collection of jewellery,
beads, enamels, etc.; chess and draughtboards, an artist's paint-box and
brushes, bread, eggs, fruit, pieces of well-made rope and thread; an axe
of gilt bronze, having a gilt cedar-wood handle; a gold boat with twelve
silver oarsmen, and many other curiosities. The museum is one of the
most interesting sights in Egypt, and will well repay many visits.
In the evening some of our party took donkeys and a guide and returned to
Bulak to see some of the shows, but the first they visited was of so
extraordinary a character they decided to see no more until their taste
was educated up or down to the present Egyptian standard.
The railway journey from Cairo to Alexandria occupied about 6.5 hours.
The line crosses the Delta of the Nile, the country being very flat all
the way.
The soil here is extremely fertile, and it was very interesting to watch
the various agricultural operations as we rode along. We particularly
noticed the many modes in which water is supplied to the land. Alongside
the railway runs a stream issuing from the Nile, and the different
holdings of land are bordered with little streamlets in place of hedges.
[Picture: A Wrecked Ship of the Desert]
At the junction of these streamlets with the main stream may frequently
be seen a couple of men standing on either bank lifting water from the
river to the streamlets by means of a huge flat bowl, holding probably
eight to ten gallons. This vessel is lifted on either side by means of
two long handles diverging from each other, and it is surprising how
large a quantity of water can be thrown up by means of it in an hour.
The bowl is always in motion with a fine swing, and it is evident the men
are working on their own account.
Every station at which we stopped is crowded with people selling oranges,
water, etc., and very clever they are at their business too, very
persuasive, and as quick as thought to see if you are inclined to buy.
The children are the merriest, liveliest things imaginable, with bright
eyes and shining white teeth. Here also may be seen numbers of beggars,
young and old, calling out eternal _backsheesh_. We saw some venerable
old fellows, bent nearly double with age, and with hair and whiskers
quite white, who entreated us piteously to help them, saying "Got no
mother, got no father, _backsheesh_!" Such orphans as these never
obtained our sympathy, although they afforded us great amusement.
While in Cairo, news came of the dissolution of Parliament by Lord
Beaconsfield, and we hastened to Alexandria to take the steamer for Italy
on the following day; but on arriving we found the weather so excessively
rough that the steamers were detained: and, as there seemed no prospect
of getting off, we determined to proceed to Port Said, by way of
Ismailia, in order to take the steamer sailing thence for Naples, hoping
on some future occasion to be able to see what is to be seen in
Alexandria. A day's railway-ride brought us to Ismailia, from which
place we took the evening mail-boat to Port Said. The night was very
cold, and after a seven hours' trip on the Canal it was very pleasant to
find ourselves in the magnificent hotel built by Prince Henry of the
Netherlands, attached to the Dutch factory at Port Said.
One of the Orient Steamers was due to sail on the following day, and we
expected to proceed to Naples in her, but after providing us with tickets
the agent sent us word that she had been detained a week and that we must
choose another vessel. There was no other way of escape than by taking
the P. and 0. Steamer "Mongolia" to Malta, trusting to being able to find
a ready means of crossing to Naples from that place. Unfortunately a
heavy storm in the Mediterranean had the effect of delaying our arrival
in Malta some hours, and we had the mortification of seeing the Naples
steamer leaving the harbour as we were entering it. We arrived on Monday
and found there would not be another steamer until Thursday, and as the
Birmingham election was to take place on Wednesday in the following week
our chance of getting there seemed very doubtful. Leaving Malta,
however, on the Thursday, by dint of almost continual travelling night
and day, we arrived safely in Birmingham at half-past ten on the
Wednesday morning, and proceeded at once to register our votes for Bright
and Chamberlain, two of the three successful Liberal candidates.
[Picture: Au Revoir]