CHAPTER III

Deals in order of seniority with two of the hills on which Prague

stands. First in order, Vy[vs]ehrad, with its memories of Libu[vs]a and

her supernatural gift. Refers also to one P[vr]emysl, Libu[vs]a's chosen

consort, and the long line of rulers his descendants. Tells of how the

foundations of the Hrad[vs]any were laid according to Libu[vs]'s

instructions. Tries to describe the Hrad[vs]any as seen to-day,

inadequately be it admitted, but illustrations are added in order to

help the reader's comprehension of this crowning glory of Prague. Tells

a story or two about sentries, one of which at least is intended to

thrill. There is also mention of one Czech, of his discovery of the hill

[vR]ip. This chapter shows also how by degrees the descendants of

P[vr]emysl emerged from the mist of legend with the dawn of Christianity

over these Slavonic tribes.

Duke Mnata and his wife Strzezislava flit across the stage. Then we

linger on Bo[vr]ivoj and note that German influence begins to make

itself felt. St. Methodius is also mentioned, as is one Svatopluk,

Prince of Moravia. Finally we arrive at properly authenticated Princes

of Bohemia, each labelled and dated correctly, St. Wenceslaus and his

brother Boleslav. Mentions also a saintly lady Ludmilla and her

daughter-in-law Dragomira in vivid contrast. Family dissensions among

the P[vr]emysls which lead to such unpleasant happenings as the murder

of St. Ludmilla and the consequent banishment of Dragomira by her son

Wenceslaus, of whom there is so much to relate that he is worthy to open

a fresh chapter.

Let us lift up our eyes unto the hills, the hills on which stands

Prague, and if help do not come at once we may at least hope for

inspiration; the beauty of the scene alone assures us. Look out from

your terrace of a morning, a cloudless morning of early summer, and

gainsay it if you can. The town is extending considerably, growing up

the distant slopes on the far side of the river and trickling down into

the little valleys, but the general outline of Prague is much the same

as it has been for centuries; the eternal hills may be scarred and

patched by us who have here no "abiding city," but they remain.

I have already mentioned the hills on which Prague was built, and had

decided that they are five in number, not seven as is popularly alleged.

I have counted those hills several times over, and make their number

five, and quite sufficient too; another two hills would mar the

composition. At the risk of repeating myself, I maintain that Prague can

well afford to be original and forgo any imitation of other cities by

insisting on standing on seven hills; a truly great city should not

descend to servile flattery. Paris, for example, undoubtedly a great

city, is quite content to stand on two hills, Montmartre and

Montparnasse, the latter quite worn flat by the levelling tendencies of

modern times.

It is now time that we delved down into the history of Bohemia, and in

this we gain inspiration from the hills of Prague, the works of man that

crown them and the traditions, legends, shreds of history that cling to

them. Of these hills that of Vy[vs]ehrad is entitled to hold seniority

in the history of Prague. It takes a place somewhat akin to that held by

the Capitoline Hill of Rome. It was from here that the city started,

though this hill has little left of former grandeur and shows nothing to

compare with Rome's monuments to a glorious past. A crumbling block of

masonry, the story of which is quite unknown, a round chapel dating from

the days when Christianity was young among the Slavs and still found

ready martyrs in its cause even among princes, and an _enceinte_ of

brick fortifications, stone-faced and in Vauban's best style, battered

by Frederick the Great's guns, are all that Vy[vs]ehrad has to show by

way of relics of a stormy past.

Vy[vs]ehrad is about the first striking view you obtain of Prague as the

_train de luxe_ brings you round a bend before crossing the railway

bridge over the Vltava. Travellers seeing Prague for the first time are

apt to mistake this hill of Vy[vs]ehrad for the castle. I did so myself;

my delight, therefore, at the first sight of Prague's crowning glory,

the Hrad[vs]any, was all the greater.

Seen against the evening sky, Vy[vs]ehrad looks very imposing; it is at

its best by winter twilight, when the heavy mass is dully reflected on

the surface of the frozen river. Then you may gain some idea of what

this rugged promontory stands for in the life-history of a race that has

passed through great tribulation. Two Gothic spires point to the skies,

rising from a church which, despite its newness, seems more in accord

with the spirit of Prague than do the copper domes of Jesuit

structures; but then this church is built on foundations so ancient as

to defy investigation by the most assiduous chroniclers. No doubt those

spires are right enough in their way, but they are almost painfully

modern and unromantic compared to a square bit of crumbling masonry that

clings limpet-like to the crags of Vy[vs]ehrad overhanging the river at

the feet of the twin church towers. For here, according to legend, is

the cradle of the city of Prague. In popular parlance this bit of

masonry is called Libu[vs]a's bath, and hereby hangs a tale to introduce

which we must hark back some fourteen centuries.

* * * * *

Some time in the sixth century--nobody seems to know exactly or to care

much when it was--one Czech or Czechus was wandering about this land of

Bohemia with a party of friends and relatives, probably a whole tribe of

them. Czech seems to have had the country to himself; if he had met any

strangers there would have been a fight, and we should have heard about

it. It may therefore be assumed that the former occupants, probably

lodgers only, had moved on. There was much movement going on in those

early centuries of the Christian era, the main tendency being from

north-east to south-west, from cold, damp and short-commons to warmth

and plenty. Now we have sufficient reason to believe that Thuringians

and Rugians abode for a while in Bohemia and parts of Bavaria, and

Lombards in Moravia, and that these gentry, hearing of loot to be had in

plenty farther south, left their temporary homes, crossed the Danube and

made themselves unpopular elsewhere, leaving the lands of Bohemia and

Moravia to anyone who cared to take them. This happened some time about

the middle of the sixth century, which gives us something more definite

to go upon as to Czech's place in time. Anyway, there were Czech, his

friends and relations wandering at their own sweet pleasure over the

rolling wood-clad landscape of Bohemia. On this excursion Czech espied

from afar a peculiar shaped hill (not one of the hills of Prague) to

which he promptly gave the appropriate name of [vR]ip. Now this

innocent-looking word is, by virtue of the sign placed over the R,

pronounced in a peculiar manner; between the initial consonant and the

"i" you should insert a sound somewhat like that of the French "j" as in

"jamais," for instance. Heaven and the Czechs only know what meaning you

would convey did you neglect this euphonious concatenation of consonants

and simply say "rip"--probably something to cover the young person with

confusion; but rightly pronounced, and with due regard to the soft but

insistent sibilant, this mixture of sounds means--toadstool. It is all

so simple when once you know: [vR]ip = toadstool,--and there you are.

The description tallies too: the hill of [vR]ip does look like a

toadstool; I have seen it myself, and am prepared to support Czech's

statement on oath. Anyway, [vR]ip stands there still, much the same as

when Czech discovered it, but for a chapel dedicated to St. George on

its summit, the result of some one else's piety.

You can see [vR]ip for miles round, as it has chosen a fairly level

plain out of which to arise much like a mushroom on the lawn after a

rainy night. No wonder, then, that Czech made straight for [vR]ip,

climbed to the top, looked around him, approved of what he saw, and

decided to stay. He did, so did his friends and relatives and those that

came after them, and no power on earth was able to shift them. The

descendants of Czech are there still. One of these told me that the best

and sturdiest type of Czech is bred round about [vR]ip; he was born

thereabouts himself, and should know. I am prepared to believe it

anyway, as my friend is certainly of the best and sturdiest type of

Czech.

That much for Czech and his descendants; we must now skip a century or

two which even Cosmas of Prague was unable to fill out with legend, and

return to the lady whose bath I have already referred to. Not that I

believe the ruined bits of wall to have contained a lady's bathroom; I

have tried to imagine Libu[vs]a using the place for the morning tub,

and have failed to conjure up any picture that would carry conviction.

However, I do not wish to prejudice the case; come out to Prague and

judge for yourself.

Libu[vs]a was one of three sisters, daughters of Krok, Prince of

Bohemia, or at least some part of it, for frontiers in those very early

days were even more elastic than those drawn by International

Commissions. Anyway, there was Krok lording it over as much of Bohemia

as he could control, from his fastness of Vy[vs]ehrad. Of Libu[vs]a's

sisters, Kazi and Teta, nothing but their names is known even in legend;

they passed into oblivion on Krok's demise, for he ordained that

Libu[vs]a, his youngest daughter, should succeed him. Libu[vs]a,

according to legend, was a model of all the virtues, and as in those

days there was no ever-ready Press lurking to pounce on historical

inaccuracies, we may accept the statement of kindly Saga.

Libu[vs]a had a rare gift, one which proved uncomfortable to other

ladies of legend similarly endowed, uncomfortable both to themselves and

their belongings, the gift of prophecy. She foretold the future

greatness of Prague, and undoubtedly spotted a winner. This was not the

only occasion either, for she did herself a good turn too by means of

her supernatural power. As it happened, despite her possession of all

the virtues, she had trouble with her subjects, who declared themselves

weary of petticoat government and urged her to look round for a husband.

She did, calling to aid her uncanny gift. The discussion with her

subjects probably took place in the open, high up on Vy[vs]ehrad.

Libu[vs]a, with that far-away gaze proper to all soothsaying, pointed

out over the distant hills, saying, "Behind those hills is a small river

called Belna, and on its bank a farm named Stadic. Near that farm is a

field, and in that field your future ruler is ploughing with two spotted

oxen. His name is P[vr]emysl, and his descendants will rule over you for

ever. Take my horse and follow it; you will be led to the place."

The lady was not quite correct about P[vr]emysl and his

descendants--they have ceased to rule over the Czechs, and are now

replaced by a sovereign people; but she certainly was right in her

description of her future husband and his surroundings. The search

party, following Libu[vs]a's horse, found P[vr]emysl busy at his plough,

roped him in and brought him to their Princess. Legend again asserts

that P[vr]emysl made a first-class husband and ruler (he probably did

exactly as his wife told him) and his descendants reigned with varying

fortunes, until the first years of the fourteenth century--a very good

innings for the lineage of P[vr]emysl, the sturdy farmer, and that

far-seeing lady Libu[vs]a, his wife. During those centuries the Czechs

had consolidated into an important kingdom; from a misty chaos of

heathen Slavonic tribes had grown a people brave and generous, with a

culture all its own, and above all with a surpassing gift of expressing

itself in music.

It must not be supposed that Libu[vs]a rested content with being wife to

P[vr]emysl, just keeping house, mending clothes and minding the babies.

She continued her activities as directress of her people's fortunes, and

is made responsible, among other matters, for choosing the site of the

Hrad[vs]any, the Castle of Prague, and this is what the chronicler has

to say about it.

One day as Libu[vs]a looked out from her fastness over the river towards

the wooded heights to northward, she was moved by the gift of prophecy

to which she was addicted when deeply stirred.

Her own abode, built by her father, hung upon that rocky crag called

Vy[vs]ehrad, and was probably by no means roomy; Krok, her father, had

no doubt found it a convenient spot, being somewhat difficult of access

in those days to armed visitors, who were likely to prove a disturbing

element. The ancient Slav preferred to build in secluded spots, on

heights amid forests for choice, there was so much to guard against in

those dark ages, so the wooded heights that Libu[vs]a looked out upon

must have appealed to her strongly. Anyway, she decided to act,

prefacing action by some quite useful sooth-saying. According to the

chronicler Cosmas of Prague, who lived three or four centuries after

Libu[vs]a had passed away, the following impressive scene was enacted:

Libu[vs]a, standing on a high rock on the Vy[vs]ehrad in presence of her

husband P[vr]emysl and the elders of the people, incited by the spirit

of prophecy, uttered this prediction: "I see a town, the glory of which

will reach the stars. There is a spot in the forest, thirty stades from

this village which the River Vltava encircles, and which to the north

the stream Brusnice secures by its deep valley; and to the south a hill,

which from its rocks takes the name Pet[vr]in, towers above it. When you

have reached this spot you will find a man in the midst of the forest,

who is working at a door-sill for a house; even mighty lords bend before

a low door. From this you shall call the town which you will build there

'Praha.'" The elders did as they were bid, and so Prague arose. The

Czech name is Praha, the derivation possibly from _prah_= door.

The Hrad[vs]any Hill was thus by Princess Libu[vs]a indicated as the

pinnacle on which should rest for ever the glory of Prague and of

Bohemia. Glory is a doubtful gift and costly, and the history of Prague

shows clearly that this is true. No doubt work was started at once on a

castle to crown the hill. Libu[vs]a probably saw to it that there was no

time wasted. This would be some time about the middle of the eighth

century, but history, as handed down from those days, is wrapped about

with mystery and legend from the obscurity of which events gradually

detached themselves. It was not till Christianity had got a firm hold of

the Czech people that any half-way reliable records were kept.

We will take it for granted that it was Libu[vs]a who, with the seer's

eye penetrating the future, laid the foundations of that right royal

pile, Prague's crown of glory, the Hrad[vs]any. We have the authority of

Cosmas for this; also Smetana composed an opera all about Libu[vs]a, so

all our doubts are dispelled. We have noticed the site, and that it is

admirably adapted to defence, a rocky eminence rising like a promontory

above the broad Vltava, its steep sides falling down to the river on the

eastern side, and to deep-cut valleys to north and south. The position

offers a wide view over the rolling plains to westward. It was from this

side chiefly that the attackers came--Germans in the cause of the Holy

Roman Empire, mercenaries of many nations that swelled the imperial

hosts arrayed against Protestant Bohemia, marauding armies of Swedes,

all these surged up against the walls and towers of Prague's Royal

Castle. They broke and passed away like the fleeting cloud shadows you

may watch floating across the fields and wooded slopes of Jilove,

[vC]erny Kostelec and Zbraslav to the blue hills of Hrade[vs]in beyond.

But the castle still stands a sentinel over ancient Prague.

It must have been a pleasant post, that of sentry upon a look-out tower

of the Castle of Prague. What with the ever-changing beauty of the

landscape and the chance of noticing a hostile force approaching with

colours flying and spear-heads a-glitter in the sun, with, moreover, a

prospect of a fight, a sentry's life should have been a happy one. It

would be expected of the sentry that he should not be so held by the

fascination of the scene as to omit to report any unusual occurrence. I

have known such a thing happen even to an otherwise well-regulated

sentry. It was in Mandalay where from a wooden tower in the middle of

Fort Dufferin a sentry held watch and ward over the town. One bright

afternoon the town caught fire. The sentry was so much impressed by the

grandeur of the scene that he quite forgot to report the matter, and a

large part of the town was utterly destroyed. That man might have been

qualified as an artist, an author or a poet; as a sentry he was

disappointing.

There are no records of sentry yarns dating back to the really exciting

times in the history of the Hrad[vs]any; I have discovered only one, and

that of a comparatively recent date. The event narrated happened in the

autumn of 1753 at 11 p.m. The sentry was a grenadier; please note the

accuracy of detail which should dispel any doubt as to the truth of the

story--the grenadier touch is especially convincing. This grenadier, it

would seem, was posted in the inner court of the castle, probably at the

entrance to what is now the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Propaganda

(places of that kind want a deal of watching). The grenadier was

probably as bored as any sentry can be up till midnight sharp, when

things began to happen. First of all, the dark mass of the cathedral was

suddenly brilliantly illuminated from within. Then from that little side

entrance to the cathedral emerged a tall figure all in white. The sentry

challenged, as a sentry should. No use. The tall figure strode up to the

sentry, halted before him, cast a handful of corn at his feet and

stalked back the way it came. Lights out!... The next night at the same

hour the programme was repeated before a new sentry, also a grenadier:

the former one had probably reported himself sick. On the second night

the apparition cast down a handful of silver coin. The grenadier left

them all lying on the ground--this is the only part of the story that

strikes me as weak. On the third night, the military being represented

as before, the tall figure reappeared with commendable punctuality. On

this occasion the management had arranged a display of moonlight in

order to show up the pallid features, blood-stained clouts and other

accessories suitable to a first-class apparition. Moreover, this being

positively its last appearance in public, the tall figure spake: "1754

rich harvest, 1755 gold in plenty, 1756 blood in streams." And so it

happened. In the year 1754 there was a record harvest in Bohemia, the

year 1755 brought considerable wealth into the country (the handful of

silver was probably something on account), and in 1756 the Seven Years'

War broke out. So the story must be true, all except that little bit

about the grenadier leaving all the silver lying on the ground.

* * * * *

We were really still watching the Hrad[vs]any grow out of Libu[vs]a's

prophecy. The chronicler left it to others to find out where the

building stood for which the man in the forest was carpentering the

door-sill as described by Libu[vs]a. That great lady simply said that

the work was going on in the forest which surely extended down to the

river-bank in those days. This may have encouraged the belief that the

first house, built by Libu[vs]a herself, of course, stood somewhere

below the Castle Hill--it is said on the site of the old posting house,

but some one obliterated all trace of it by erecting a church, dedicated

to St. Procopius, above it, no doubt as part of the business of stamping

out paganism. The Church of St. Procopius is no longer in evidence, and

as there have been further additions and improvements to the quarter of

Prague in question since the eighth century, it is now quite impossible,

even to the liveliest imagination, to fix upon the spot where stood that

first house. It does not matter very much either. The Hrad[vs]any itself

is easily the most imposing and interesting sight which Prague has to

offer.

The massive strength of the castle, the Hrad[vs]any, holds your gaze

from whatever quarter of Prague you may happen to look out. The castle,

as we know, has a hill to itself, up the sides of which rise clustering

palaces, churches, convents and monasteries, buildings of grey stone and

red-tiled roofs, standing amidst terraced gardens. In spring this

ancient quarter decks itself with glorious apparel of white of cherry,

pear and plum, with here and there the delicate pink of almond blossom;

in winter, when the snow lies "smooth and crisp and even," the scene is

changed into a fairy network as of delicate lace on a foundation of grey

and purple; in all seasons it is beautiful.

[Illustration]

[Illustration: THE HRAD[vc]ANY FROM THE FUERSTENBERG GARDEN.]

The first sight of the Hrad[vs]any conveys an impression of sheer

strength, much as does Gibraltar; it also suggests a lion couchant but

watchful and strong to protect the city at its feet; this effect is

particularly noticeable from the Fuerstenberg garden. The beauty of this

massive pile grows upon you gradually as you see it under the

ever-varying atmospheric conditions of Prague. By all the canons of

art the long straight lines of the Hrad[vs]any should be unlovely. The

towers which broke those lines no longer stand out boldly as shown in

old prints and engravings, at least on the townward side of the castle.

They have been gradually merged into the general mass of the building as

time and progress brought greater demands for living room and lessened

the need of defensive measures. The straight outlines are still broken

here and there by some trace of the ancient building showing through, a

mullioned window, an old stack of chimneys, but on the whole, the mass

by itself is heavy and uniform. Nevertheless, the general effect is

splendid, whether you see this stately pile standing out strong and

massive above the mist from the river or rising in tiers out of dimmed

silvery greys against an evening sky all gold and emerald, or flushed

with sunset scarlet. The crown of all this terraced glory is the great

cathedral. A square massive tower stands up out of the body of the

church. A purist may find fault with the mixture of styles this tower

incorporates. The bulk of its structure is Gothic; at the base of the

superstructure appears a nondescript medley of styles (nondescript at

least in the eyes of a dilettante) out of which arises a concern of

domes and cupolas one above the other, supported at each corner by

little pinnacles crowned with onion-shaped tops. The copper coating of

these domes and cupolas gives a distinctive touch of colour to the whole

edifice of warm grey stone; this note of green you will find repeated

elsewhere on the churches and other buildings of Prague, a piquant note

but alien to the spirit of Prague both ancient and modern. There has

been talk of removing the superstructure from the main tower of the

cathedral and replacing it by a Gothic spire such as adorn the towers

that flank the west front of the building, spires that gleam like

lacework when standing out sunlit against dark banks of cloud. It were

best to leave the superstructure of the main tower as it is; it marks an

epoch and serves as reminder of a tyranny now overpast. The highest

point of the main tower is not adorned with a usual emblem of our faith,

a cross or a cock, but flaunts instead the "Lion of Bohemia" in all his

rampant pride of a double tail. I shall have more to say about this

wonderful heraldic animal on some future occasion; it is significant

that this crest swings over the sacred fane where rest the remains of

St. Wenceslaus, over the cradle of Bohemia's religious life.

You will remember Libu[vs]a's vision of an endless succession of little

P[vr]emysls. She overrated P[vr]emysl a bit as a good wife should, for

the P[vr]emysl dynasty ended abruptly with the murder of Wenceslaus III

in 1306 at the hand of some unknown assassins at Olomouc, by the Germans

called Olmuetz. Nevertheless, the family had had a good long spell of

life and plenty to keep them busy during those six or seven centuries;

it produced some very fine rulers; all honour to old farmer P[vr]emysl.

The first eleven scions of that line are very faint figures; they are

not even dated; only a few of them show more than a shadowy outline in

the mist of legend and dawning history. Of these early rulers there is

echo of one Mnata, who is said to have built the first stone house on

the Hrad[vs]any for his wife Strzezislava. I wonder what he called her

for short? Strz sounds a bit abrupt, Slava is too general among Slavonic

people: perhaps he called her Cissie. Strzezislava is certainly too rich

for ordinary household use. Cosmas passes by this point in silence,

which is a pity; it is just those intimate little touches that foster

pleasant social relations and justify the chronicler's attitude of

omniscience; our illustrated Press has reached perfection in that line.

Mnata and Strzezislava flit across the stage and pass into oblivion

without the benefit of gramophone and cinema. Then emerges one

Bo[vr]ivoj, first of that name, who stands out more distinctly against

the background of misty legend, probably by reason of his having

embraced Christianity; he also embraced a lady, Ludmilla, who became his

wife and one of Bohemia's moat popular saints and patrons. It happened

that Bo[vr]ivoj had occasion to ask his neighbour Svatopluk, Prince of

Moravia, for protection, and then he became acquainted with that

energetic missionary, St. Methodius. Unhappily we have no precise

information concerning date and place of this picturesque event. The

chronicler has done his best by giving the following story to fill up

the blank. He narrates that Bo[vr]ivoj was not allowed to sit at table

with Svatopluk, but was given a low stool apart, as being unfit to

associate with Christian company. This is what the Christian chronicler

says, and he made it his business to bear testimony on all occasions. It

is, however, quite conceivable that Bo[vr]ivoj's manners were not up to

refined Moravian form. Anyway, Bo[vr]ivoj allowed himself to be

converted, and as there is no mention of his table manners we may assume

that he reached the required standard.

After all, manners are a matter of relativity, and not so long ago,

somewhere about 1700, the Austrian Court found it necessary to issue a

handbook thereon, in which guests bidden to the imperial banquets were

requested not to throw their chicken bones under the table, it made so

much extra work for the servants. There is quite a modern touch about

this.

With all the fervour of a convert, Bo[vr]ivoj set about the salvation of

his people from heathen darkness. I have sought diligently for some

records of the beliefs held by this branch of the Slavonic race. There

is no evidence of any deities of strong if unpleasant personality, such

as that obstinate, one-eyed Wotan, or that destructive bully Thor, whose

brutality coloured German mentality down to most recent days, and seems

to do so still. Neither seem those Slavs to have been subject to

visitations in their homes by such doubtful characters as Hermes, nor

was their sense of propriety outraged by the "carryings on" of Zeus. No

doubt they had some benign deity, and also a malignant, jealous one, no

western creed is complete without the latter at least, if only for the

benefit of the priests, but they have left no trace on a people that has

suffered so much from the wickedness and stupidity of their human

oppressors. The western Slavs in general and the sons of Czech in

particular, had their flights of fairies, sprites, pixies and other

lovable immortals. They are here still; even I, a stranger, claim to

have heard them in "den heiteren Regionen, wo die reinen Formen wohnen,"

on the sun-kissed snow of the mountains, in the whispering voices of the

forest and the song of the burn in the glen. A sight of these benign

beings has been denied me--for this I make the heavy cuisine of Bohemia

responsible; but their spirit lives on and informs the sons of Czech in

the realm of the spirit, in art and poetry, above all in music.

Bo[vr]ivoj plunged into Christianity with enthusiasm; he is known to

have built a church at Levy Hradec, and is said to have laid the

foundations of another on the Castle Hill. It appears, however, that

the pace he set was rather too hot for his people; they raised a deal of

trouble, and Bo[vr]ivoj had to call in the German King Arnulf to help in

restoring order. This step did not bring unmixed blessings; it gave the

Germans an excuse for interfering in Bohemian affairs. Now Arnulf was a

Carolingian, of bastard blood indeed, but nevertheless under the "Holy

Roman Empire" obsession, and therefore convinced of the German right to

round up all Christian countries into that Empire. In this action of

Bo[vr]ivoj we see the first instalment of the endless trouble caused by

the obsession which originated with Charlemagne as mentioned in the

first chapter. Moreover, this German intervention gave to the

inhabitants of Bohemia their first experience of religious dissension.

Their first contact with Christianity brought them the choice of rival

liturgies, the Latin as favoured by the Germans with their "Holy Roman"

idea, and the Slavonic which St. Methodius had introduced. So

Christianity in Bohemia began with an exhibition of divergent religious

views, which may account for a good deal of the suffering brought upon

this country for its own salvation and its neighbours' benefit.

Bo[vr]ivoj's successors, Spytihnev I and Vratislav I, were kept so busy

guarding their country against Magyar inroads that it seems they had no

time to worry about religious differences. Neighbour Svatopluk's

extensive empire had fallen to pieces owing to the quarrels of his sons

and under Magyar aggression; this gave Spytihnev the opportunity of

freeing himself from the supremacy of Moravia which Bo[vr]ivoj had

accepted in return for assistance rendered him by Svatopluk and the

Slavonic liturgy thrown into the bargain. This, again, brought the

Germans nearer to Bohemia, as neither Spytihnev nor Vratislav were

strong enough to stand alone. As politics and Church worked hand in hand

in those days, the Germans imposed the Bishop of Ratisbon, and with him

the Latin liturgy, on Bohemia, whereas such Slavs as had taken to

Christianity at all were rather inclined to the other version. This must

have caused a good deal of trouble, so it is not to be wondered at if

the rulers of Bohemia recalled happier, simpler days. There came a

certain reaction in the affairs of the P[vr]emysl family. We have noted

the saintly lady Ludmilla, wife of Bo[vr]ivoj, the first Christian

Prince of Bohemia. Ludmilla was very pious indeed; you will find

frescoes illustrating her good deeds, adorning the walls of Karlov Tyn

(Karlstein), a fine old castle of which I will tell you more by and by.

It is quite impossible to be so picturesquely good and pious as was

Ludmilla, in these days of mail-orders, wholesale departments, banking

accounts and cheque-books. There was another lady of the P[vr]emysl

family, and she, according to all accounts, was neither good nor pious.

She was a reactionary, a thorough-paced pagan, and it was this lady who

caused trouble in the household. The lady's name was Dragomira; she had

married Bo[vr]ivoj's second son, and had been left a widow with three

sons. This did not have the usual soothing effect upon the lady.

Dragomira, as regent during the minority of her sons, had revived

paganism, and this brought her into conflict with the German King, Henry

the Fowler. Pious Ludmilla, Dragomira's mother-in-law, was much upset

about this conflict, for with all her good works she found time to take

an active interest in foreign politics. Here were all the elements of a

hearty family row; in addition, Dragomira's sons took different sides:

Wenceslaus with his grandmother Ludmilla, Boleslav the younger with his

pagan mother. The chronicler sides entirely with Ludmilla and Wenceslaus

in his narrative of the domestic dissensions of the P[vr]emysl family.

He shows no sympathy for the other side, does not realize that Dragomira

must have got very weary of her mother-in-law's piety and annoyed at

that lady's interference in the education of her sons. There is a great

deal to be said for Dragomira's point of view, and it is a pity that her

remarks on the rival Christian liturgies, Latin and Slavonic, have not

been handed down to us. Dragomira certainly carried matters too far when

she strangled Ludmilla with her own veil one evening in chapel; she made

the mistake of furnishing the other side with a first-class saint and

royal martyr.

Wenceslaus, the pious elder son, was extremely annoyed at this open

demonstration of family discord. Dragomira was sent into exile; her name

was never mentioned again. The treatment meted out to his mother made of

young Boleslav a more determined pagan than he was before; he sat up at

night hatching heathen plots against brother Wenceslaus. Boleslav's

reincarnation is probably to be found among international financiers of

the present day. The result of his machinations must be told in a fresh

chapter.

From a Terrace in Prague · 第 3 / 12 章