Parties for Hunting, Fishing, or other Pleasures. The Elector himself gave
Direction for all the Feasts he made, and I believe it would have been
difficult to have found any body that understood the Matter so well; every
Thing being conducted with such charming Delicacy and Regularity, that I
own to you, _Madame_, I thought myself in some enchanted Island. What
contributed to render the Court of _Munich_ yet more splendid, was, the
Presence of the Count _de Charolois_, a Prince of the Blood of _France_,
who made some Stay here at his Return from the War in _Hungary_[6]. That
young Prince being spurr'd on by Glory, thought he could not better
signalize his Valour, than by bearing Arms against the Infidels, with whom
the Emperor had just declared War; but as he plainly foresaw, it would be
difficult for him to obtain Leave from his Mother and the Regent to go out
of the Kingdom, he resolv'd to get away without speaking a Word of it to
any body but Two Persons that he carry'd along with him. The Day that he
put this Project in Execution, he set out early in the Morning, on
Pretence of going a Hunting. He travell'd Seven Post Stages without
Baiting, with the Horses of the Duke his Brother, and he was got as far as
the _Austrian Netherlands_, when they thought at _Chantilly_ he was but in
the Forest. He went to _Liege_, and from thence to _Bon_, but always with
an Equipage that did not denote his Quality. From _Bon_ he proceeded thro'
_Munich_ to _Vienna_; from whence without visiting either the Emperor or
Empress he repair'd to _Belgrade_, which was then besieg'd by Prince
_Eugene_ of _Savoy_. He distinguish'd himself greatly in this Campaign,
and gave Demonstration that he was worthy of his Illustrious Blood. After
the Reduction of _Belgrade_, he went to _Vienna_, where he stay'd some
time, and then travell'd to _Italy_, from whence he return'd to _Munich_.
The Elector, who had been perfectly well receiv'd by the Duchess, who was
the young Count's Mother, took a Pleasure to shew his Gratitude to the
Prince her Son. He therefore lodg'd him at the Castle, and defray'd his
and his Attendants Charges all the Time that he stay'd at _Munich_; he
provided a Table for him in his Apartment for Twelve People; and when he
din'd with the Elector, which he never did but with Ladies in Company; and
when they were to go out a Hunting, his Gentlemen had a Table allow'd
them, which was spread for Eight; but some Difficulties in the Point of
Rank prevented the Count from dining in public with the Elector and the
Princes. His Electoral Highness gave him a certain Number of Officers,
Pages and Footmen to wait on him, and Care was taken to chuse such only to
attend him as talk'd _French_; but he soon acquainted himself with the
_German_ Language to such a Degree, that the Country-People understood him
better than they did me. Of this I had Experience one Day as I went a
Hunting with him, when he bad me ask something of a Peasant, who I saw by
his Looks did not know what I meant; but the Count accosted him with the
same Demand, and the Peasant understood him immediately, by reason of the
_Bavarian_ Accent, in which that Prince express'd himself happily: He
return'd to _Chantilly_ the 1st of _May_ 1720.
Three Quarters of a League from _Munich_ is the stately Palace of
NYMPHENBOURG[7], to which I have had the Honour to acquaint you the Court
repaired very often. 'Tis impossible for a Place to be more charming; the
Gardens especially are very beautiful: A grand Avenue leads to
_Nymphenbourg_, which runs from _Munich_ to the Iron Gates of the Palace.
In the Front of this Palace, next to the Court, there are Three Pavilions,
which are connected by Two Apartments for Lodgings. The middlemost
Pavilion, which is larger than the other Two, is square, and contains a
great Hall, finely adorn'd with Architecture, and an Apartment on each
Side. The Two Side Pavilions are terminated by Two large Pavilions, that
run further out, and form Two Wings. On the Side next to the Court there
are Steps, by which there is an Ascent up to the Hall; and on the opposite
Side there are others, which lead down to the Garden. From the Steps on
the Court-side is a Prospect of a large Canal, lin'd on each Side with a
Row of Elms, which is separated from the Court by a Grate.
As to the Apartments, they are all of the utmost Magnificence, but the
only one that I shall speak of now is the Elector's. The first Room at the
Entrance is very fine, considering its Extent, but not much adorn'd, being
altogether bare white Walls, so that only the Ceiling is painted. As one
turns to the Right, we enter an Antichamber, which is a Thorowfare both to
the Elector's Apartment, and to another on the Left Hand, then occupied by
the Count _de Charolois_. This Antichamber is wainscotted throughout, and
leads to a Gallery, which is also completely wainscotted, the Pannels
being painted white with gilt Fillets. There we saw in Compartments very
fine Pictures, which represent either Hunting, or the Prospects of the
Elector's several Houses. From this Gallery is an Entrance into a large
Antichamber, all over wainscotted, and adorn'd with Chimney and
Pier-Glasses and magnificent Pictures. From thence, turning to the Left,
we enter into a large Closet, the Furniture of which is a fine Sky-blue
Damask, lac'd with Gold. The Ceilings, Doors and Window-Shutters are
painted white, with gilt _Basso Relievo's_. In this Closet as well as in
the Chamber next to it, are a great many very fine Pier-Glasses and Marble
Tables: The latter is the Bedchamber; the Furniture and Bed are of blue
Damask, as is also the Closet: Out of this Chamber there's a Passage to a
second Closet, furnish'd in the same Taste. These Three Pieces follow one
another, and look into the Garden: The last mention'd Closet terminates
the Elector's Apartment, which communicates by little Offices and a
Stair-case to a small Apartment which his Electoral Highness lives in, the
great Apartment being only for keeping his Court. On the other Side of the
Palace are the Apartments of the Electoress and the Princes, who are all
lodg'd there very commodiously.
The Gardens of this Palace are very well laid out: As one enters them by
the Steps from the Castle, the first Thing one sees is a very fine
_Parterre_, which reaches to a Wood, that is cut into Three great Walks,
in Form of a Goose-Foot; in the midst whereof are Three Canals of Spring
Water, the middlemost of which runs out of Sight, and has its Issue by
Three Waterfalls, in Form of a Cascade. The Wood consists of Groves,
adorn'd with Bowers, and noble Water-Works. On the Right Hand of the
Garden is a Grove, which contains a Mall; and a little further is a very
great Mall, in Form of a Horse-shoe. The Two Ends run to the grand Walk,
and contain between them a Pavilion, built in Form of a Cross arch'd,
consisting of Two Stories, and forming an Octogon Saloon in the middle
with Four Windows, between which are Four Summer Houses, one of which is
an Antichamber, the second a Bedchamber, the third a Closet, and the
fourth a Stair-case. This House is built in the Form of a Pagod's Temple,
and all the Furniture is _Indian_, which is the Reason that 'tis call'd
_Pagodenbourg_. Over-against this pretty House, on the Left of the great
Canal, are Bagnio's. Nothing in the World can be better contriv'd, and
more charming: All the Ceilings, the _Basso Relievo's_ and other Ornaments
have some Relation or other to the Use for which this House is
appropriated. The Baths are of Marble, adorn'd with Statues and Vessels of
very great Price.
Tho' the Elector seem'd to be mightily delighted with _Nymphenbourg_, yet
he was about building another Palace, which was to be call'd
_Schleisheim_: According to the Designs that I saw of it, this Palace must
be much larger and more noble than _Nymphenbourg_, so that they said, that
_Schleisheim_ would be the _Versailles_ of _Bavaria_, and _Nymphenbourg_
the _Marly_.
I spent my Time so agreeably while I stay'd at _Munich_, that indeed I was
very loth to quit a Place so charming: Nevertheless, I set out with a
Heart full of Gratitude for all the Favours I had receiv'd from the
Elector, and the Princes his Children.
* * * * *
I lay the first Night at _Wasserbourg_[8], and from thence went to PASSAU,
which makes a Part of _Lower Bavaria_, and is a Bishoprick Suffragan of
_Saltzbourg_.[9]_Passau_ is famous for the Treaty which was concluded
there between the Emperor _Charles_ and _Mauric_ Elector of _Saxony_,
whereby the Protestant Religion was establish'd and secur'd in _Germany_,
where before it was only tolerated. This is a very pretty City, has fine
Houses, and several Churches. The Cathedral, which is a quite new
Structure, is very large, and in the Inside very magnificent, being
adorn'd all over with Pilasters, and other Embellishments of Architecture,
and the Roof painted in _Fresco_. I was at Divine Service there on
_Whitsunday_, and as every body then made the best Appearance they could,
I observ'd the meanest Women of the Town were dress'd in Gowns of black
Velvet, and scarlet Petticoats with Gold Lace, and that some of 'em had
Pearl Necklaces of Five or Six Rows; and others Gold Chains with Rings,
and Ear Pendants of Diamonds.
* * * * *
From _Passau_ I went down the _Danube_ to _Lintz_, the Capital of _Upper
Austria_; and from thence to VIENNA[10], the Capital of _Austria_, and the
ordinary Residence of the Emperors, ever since _Maximilian_. This City,
which was heretofore but a Bishoprick, was lately erected into an
Archbishoprick, and the Archbishop takes the Title of Prince. The
Cathedral Church, which is dedicated to St. _Stephen_, is an old Building,
very magnificent, but dark: The City stands upon the _Danube_, an Arm of
which separates it from the Suburb, which is call'd _Leopoldstat_: The
_Turks_ have made more than one vain Attempt to be Masters of _Vienna_.
_Soliman_ II. besieg'd it _Sept._ 25, 1529, but on the 14th of _October_
following _Charles_ V. oblig'd him to raise the Siege. In 1693 the _Turks_
made another Attempt, and besieg'd it with an Army of above 200,000 Men,
when the Emperor _Leopold_ retir'd with all his Family to the Castle of
_Lintz_, and left the Command of the City to the Count _de Staremberg_:
The Count was forc'd to sustain terrible Attacks from the _Turks_, who
push'd on their Works with Vigor, and the Place could hold out no longer,
when _John Sobieski_ King of _Poland_ advanced to relieve it, at the Head
of an Army of _Poles_. He came in Sight of the Enemy on the 11th of
_September_, and next Day gave them Battle, and obtain'd a complete
Victory; for the _Turks_ abandon'd both their Camp and their Artillery,
and the Conquerors took a prodigious Booty, particularly such a vast
Number of black Cattle, that 'tis said they were sold for Five or Six
Florins apiece. The Emperor no sooner receiv'd the Tidings that the Siege
was rais'd, but he set out from _Lintz_ for _Vienna_, where he visited the
King of _Poland_ in the open Field, and made his grateful Acknowledgments
to him for the signal Service he had then done him.
_Vienna_ receiv'd a great deal of Damage at this Siege; Part of the
Imperial Palace being reduc'd to Ashes, as well as several other grand
Structures. The Emperor immediately set about repairing those Losses, and
the Palace was rebuilt as it was before; and several of the Nobility also
caus'd such magnificent Palaces to be erected, that in a short time the
Town recover'd its former Splendor.
The Imperial Palace is large, but has nothing else scarce to boast of, for
the Apartments are low, dark, and without Ornaments, and the Furniture is
very ancient, tho' scarce any Princes have a finer Treasure in Tapistry;
and why 'tis not us'd, I can't imagine: The Apartments of the Empress
Dowager were the only ones fit to lodge in; for that Princess took Care to
have them not only rais'd higher, but inlaid and wainscotted, which has
given them a certain Air of Majesty they had not before. This Princess's
Apartment is hung with black Velvet, it being the Custom of the Imperial
Court, for the Empress Dowagers never to quit their Mourning. The
Bedchamber and the Closet call'd _la Retirade_ or the Withdrawing-Room,
are the only Two Pieces that are not hung with black, the whole Furniture
thereof being grey. For the rest, were a Stranger to see the Palace of
_Vienna_, and to have no Notion of what it is before-hand, he would scarce
imagine it to be the Residence of the first Prince of _Europe_.
The Palace of _la Favorita_ in the Suburb of _Vienna_, where the Emperor
spends the Summer, is even inferior to that in the City. 'Tis a very large
House, built upon the Highway, without any Court before it, without
Symmetry or Architecture, and which, as to the Outside, looks more like a
Convent, than a Royal Palace. The Inside perfectly answers the Outside.
There's an Ascent to the Apartments by a great Stair-case, all of Timber,
that leads to a Guard Chamber, which is a Room of no great Extent, and
without any manner of Ornament; and from thence there's an Entrance into
other Apartments but half furnish'd, and very low, which in short is the
Fault of all the Apartments. The Gardens of the Palace are as
inconsiderable as the Building; they being full of large Fruit-trees, but
in very bad Order, and I saw nothing there that can be call'd a fine
Prospect.
Mean time the Court Nobility are far from being so ill lodg'd as the
Emperor, for they have all stately Houses, both in the City and Suburbs.
Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_'s Palace is the most magnificent Building that
one shall see; for whether you examine the Outside or the Inside of it,
the whole is of the best Contrivance, and the utmost Magnificence. The
first Hall, which forms the first Piece of the grand Apartment, is all
wainscotted, and adorn'd with large Pictures, representing the chief
Battles won by Prince _Eugene_. From this Hall we enter into a large
Antichamber, where we see a Suit of Tapistry Hangings, made by the famous
_Devos_ of _Brussels_, where that skilful Artist has represented the
principal Transactions of the War to as great Perfection as possible: Out
of this Antichamber we go into the Bedchamber; I never saw any thing so
rich as the Furniture is there; the Tapistry is roll'd up in Pilasters of
green Velvet, embroider'd with Gold, with Figures in Needle Work so finely
drawn, that they seem to be Miniatures. This Piece is intirely furnish'd
in all that Taste: The Closet next to the Bedchamber is all over gilt; and
every thing in general in this Apartment is superb; the Paintings,
Looking-Glasses, Marble Tables, the very Arms and Andirons being of most
curious Workmanship: I ought not to omit the many fine Lustres, of which
that in the Bedchamber is the most magnificent; and I have been told, that
it cost 40,000 Florins: As to the Ceiling and other Pieces of Masonry,
they are indeed very fine, but not so elegant as noble.
After having taken a full View of the Prince's Apartments, I was shew'd
the Library, which is in as good a Condition as any in _Europe_. The Books
are rang'd in delightful Order, and the pompous Bindings form the finest
Scene that can be. Hither the Prince comes every now-and-then to unbend
himself from the Fatigues of his great Employments.
The Prince has a magnificent Garden in the Suburb of _Vienna_, which has a
Court before it, that is separated from the Street by an Iron Grate of
very curious Workmanship. In this Court is a very large Piece of Water,
with a Row of Chestnut-Trees on each Side, that leads to the House, or
rather the Castle, for 'tis a great and stately Building: They were still
at Work upon it when I saw it. This House fronts the Garden, and takes up
almost the whole Breadth of it. The Garden is shelving, for which Reason
it was thought proper to place a very fine Cascade in the middle of it.
There's a very neat Structure at the End of it, which, like the House,
takes in the whole Breadth of it. Below Stairs is a great Saloon, all
lin'd with Marble of several Colours, and a Ceiling adorn'd with fine
Paintings: From this Saloon there's a Passage to a Room on the Left, the
Ceiling and Wainscot of which are very fine; and then we enter into a
large Closet, and next to that is a Bedchamber, with a Gallery and another
large Closet at the End of that; so much for what is on the Left of the
Saloon. On the Right Hand is another large Apartment, and the Chapel. The
Backside of the Building looks into a great Court, where are the Stables
and Coach-houses: 'Tis pity that this Prince, after he had been at so much
Expence in this Building, did not buy the Ground where the Empress has
since built a Convent. The Prince was advis'd to it at that very Time, but
he refus'd, and said, he would not purchase the whole Suburb; to be sure
he repents it by this time; for the Convent, which the Empress has caus'd
to be erected there, is a great Inconvenience to that Prince, who cannot
stir one Step at Home, without being overlook'd by the Nuns.
On the other Side of the City is another Suburb, which is very
considerable, and the Walks there are very fine. The _Prat_, for Instance,
is a Place mightily frequented; 'tis a Wood in an Island, form'd by the
_Danube_, where there is such a surprizing Concourse of People in fine
Weather, that it may well enough be call'd, _The_ Boulogne _Grove of_
Vienna. As one returns out of this Walk we come to another, call'd _The
Emperor's Garden_: Here was formerly a beautiful Palace, but the _Turks_
having burnt it the last time they besieg'd _Vienna_, there is nothing of
it to be seen now but the Ruins: The Garden is a large Spot of Ground,
and, with a little Expence, might be made very fine, but no body seems to
think about it, which I have been told is owing to the surprizing Swarms
of Insects the _Danube_ brings hither at certain Times of the Year, so
that People who come hither to walk, are forc'd to desert it: When they
can come without this Annoyance, the Gentry usually repair hither in the
Evening; adjoining to this Garden is a very fine Wood, in which are cut
out noble Walks: This, _Madame_, is all that is most remarkable in
_Vienna_ and its Suburbs, as to the Buildings; I will next endeavour to
give you an Idea of this Court.
The Court of _Vienna_ is, in my Opinion, the plainest, and at the same
time the most magnificent in _Europe_: To explain this seeming Paradox, I
must acquaint you, that, as to the external Appearance of the Emperor's
Houshold, nothing is so plain, nor indeed so dismal: His Liveries are of
black Cloth, with a Lace of yellow and white Silk: The Cloathing of his
Guards is much the same; and besides, they are not many in Number. The
Palace, as I have had the Honour to tell you, is very inconsiderable; yet
taking the Court all together, and considering the Number of Great and
Petty Officers, the many rich Noblemen that spend high, and the several
Princes that are in the Service of his Imperial Majesty, it must be
confess'd, that there is not a Court in _Europe_ so splendid as that of
_Vienna_. At the Time that I was there, the Emperor had in his Service Two
Brothers of a King, Two Princes of Royal Blood, and a great Number of
Princes of Sovereign or other Honourable Families: Nor is there a Court
where there is a more sudden Transition from the meanest to the most
stately external Appearance, and this they commonly run to such an
Extreme, that they absolutely renounce Elegancy, to incumber themselves
with Magnificence: For on solemn Days, as those of Births, Marriages,
_&c._ one sees nothing but Gold, Lace and Diamonds without Number: And as
soon as these Holidays, which are call'd _Gala_, are expir'd, they all
resume their former Plainness.
After having given you this general Idea of the Court of _Vienna_, I will
acquaint you how they commonly spend their Time: First of all, as soon as
the Emperor is risen, he is dress'd; then he reads some Dispatches, and
sometimes gives Audience to some Minister, or assists in Council. He
afterwards goes to Mass, either at his own Chapel, or to some Church,
according to the Festival. On the Days of Ceremony or Festival he is
accompany'd by the Nuncio and the Ambassadors, upon which Occasion the
Emperor rides thither with very great Pomp. The Grooms of the Imperial
Stables on Horseback begin the Cavalcade, then comes an Equerry, and a
Coach drawn by Six Horses, in which sits the Master of the Horse: He is
follow'd by the Chamberlains, the Knights of the Golden Fleece, and the
Ministers, all on Horseback, in black Cloaths, and Cloaks trimm'd with
Lace. After these come the Footmen and Heydukes, in an antic Dress, and
bare-headed. Their Imperial Majesties Coach comes next, between Two Files
of the Hundred _Swiss_: The Emperor rides always with his Face to the
Horses, and the Empress over-against him, unless the Emperor goes into the
Country, and then the Empress sits by his Side. The Pages and some of the
inferior Officers of the Chamber follow on Horseback, and then Three or
Four Coaches, with Six Horses, in which are the Empress's Ladies: The
Cavalcade is clos'd by a Company of the Garison at _Vienna_, which is
maintain'd at the Charge of the City, and mounts Guard at the Emperor's
Palace, his Imperial Majesty having no other Foot Guards.
After Mass is ended, the Emperor returns to his Apartment, preceded by all
his Court, as when he came. The Nuncio and the Ambassadors are covered, as
is also the Emperor; then come the Empress and the Archduchesses, each led
by the Steward of their Houshold.
When the Emperor is return'd to his Apartment, he retires to a Chamber
call'd _la Retirade_, or the Withdrawing-Room, where he stays till
Dinner-time, which, when 'tis serv'd up, the great Chamberlain goes and
acquaints the Emperor, who comes and sits down at Table with the Empress,
attended by all the Ladies. A Chamberlain or Treasurer of the Chambers
presents the Bason for their Majesties to wash in, who afterwards seat
themselves in Two-arm Chairs: The Table did not appear to me to be serv'd
with very great Delicacy. The Plate is old-fashion'd, and all the Dishes
were set without any Regularity. Their Imperial Majesties have particular
Plates to themselves, for which Reason small Plates are commonly made use
of; and I have seen no less than Five or Six Spoons upon the Table at a
Time: The Emperor covers himself as soon as he is seated; then the Nuncio
and Ambassadors likewise cover themselves, and keep their Standing round
the Table, till their Majesties have drank; their Liquor is presented to
them by a Chamberlain; after their Majesties have drank to one another's
Healths, the Steward, the great Chamberlain, the Master of the Horse and
the Captain of the Guards step forward to receive the Emperor's Orders,
and to know how his Majesty will dispose of himself in the Afternoon. The
Ladies of Honour and the Officers belonging to the Empress advance to that
Princess in like manner, to know her Pleasure, and then every body
retires, unless there is Music, which happens very often: The Dinner does
not last much above an Hour: Their Majesties stay at Table till every
thing is taken away, even so much as the Cloth, but then a fresh one is
laid on, upon which the Treasurer places a Bason and an Ewer of Silver
gilt, and presents them to their Majesties to wash. The great Chamberlain
presents the Napkin to the Emperor, as the Lady of Honour does to the
Empress: This done, their Majesties retire to their Withdrawing-Rooms,
tho' they often go out a Hunting, or to shoot at a Mark.
When the Emperor shoots at a Mark, several Persons are enter'd down in a
List to shoot with him, and there are Prizes distributed by those who are
of the Society of Shooters, of whom the Emperor gives the first Prize, the
Empress the second, and then all the rest, according to the Seniority of
their Admission into the Society. At their Return from this Diversion, the
Emperor grants Audience to those that send to desire it by the great
Chamberlain, who takes Care to let them know the Time when his Majesty is
to be spoke with. These Audiences are given without Ceremony, and they
that receive them are introduc'd by the Chamberlain in waiting. The
Emperor stands up and is cover'd, leaning with his Back against a Table,
with a Canopy over him, and an Arm-Chair by his Side: The Person that
approaches for Audience bends the Knee Three times, first as he comes in,
next when he is in the middle of the Room, and the third time when he
begins to speak. The Emperor hearkens with Attention, gives a gracious
Answer, and if there be any thing obscure in what is deliver'd to him, he
desires an Explanation. When the Person has made an End of speaking, he
bends one Knee to the Ground, and stretches forth his Hand, as a Signal
that he desires to kiss that of the Emperor, which his Majesty never
refuses. Then the Person retires, going backwards, and making the Three
Obeisances that he made at Entrance. The same Ceremonies are observ'd in
the Audiences of the Empresses; in order to obtain one from the Empress
Regent, Application is made to the great Steward of her Household, who
desires it, and then notifies what Hour will be most convenient for the
Empress to grant it. At these Audiences there attends but one Lady of
Honour, who keeps her proper Distance far enough to be out of the Hearing
of what is said, while her Majesty's great Steward stays at the Door in
the Antichamber.
A shocking Abuse is crept into the Court of _Vienna_, in the Article of
Audiences: The next Day after they have been had, the Domestics of the
great Chamberlain and the great Steward come to demand a Fee for the
Service done by their Masters in giving the Notice to their Majesties; and
I have known some so impertinent, as to fix the Sum they claim'd a Right
to. The Hundred _Swiss_ and the very Ushers come likewise to wish happy
Success to the Audience that has been obtain'd, merely for what they can
get.
As soon as the Audiences are over, the Empress goes into a Room call'd,
_The Looking-Glass Room_, because 'tis the only one in her Apartment where
there are such Glasses: There her Majesty finds the Ladies, who kiss her
Hand one after the Other, after which the Empress sits down to Play; none
but the Ladies have the Honour to play with her, or have Permission to
enter into that Room, excepting indeed the Emperor, the great
Chamberlain, the great Steward, and the Princes who are related to the
Empress. While they are at Play, the Ladies are seated round the Table,
without observing any Precedence; nor is it even as 'tis in _France_,
where the Honour of the Tabouret or Stool to sit on is paid only to the
Duchesses; for at _Vienna_ those who are call'd Duchesses by way of
Railery, are treated as if they were such in Reality.
There's another Custom at _Vienna_, very different from the Practice at
other Courts of _Europe_: Here are no Days fix'd for Drawing-Rooms or
Circles, so that the Ladies, when they think proper, send to the Lady of
Honour in waiting, to know of her at what time they may pay their Court to
the Empress; and then they repair to the Palace at the Time appointed.
Towards Supper-time the Emperor goes to see the Empress; when the Company
gives over Play, and the Empress rises, and admits those Ladies that are
not to stay at Supper to kiss her Hand; after which their Majesties seat
themselves at Table, which is serv'd much after the same manner as at
Dinner: Their Majesties always sup in the Empress's Apartment, where Two
Wax Candles are plac'd upon the Table, which are chang'd Three or Four
Times by one of the Maids of Honour: When she takes off a Candle, to give
it to the Treasurer to snuff it, she makes a profound Curt'sy, and makes
another when she replaces it on the Table. On the _Gala_ or Festival Days,
there is Music during the Repast. After the Bason has been presented to
their Majesties to wash their Hands in, the Governess or Mother of the
Maids presents the Napkin to the Emperor; and a Maid of Honour, who is at
the same time Lady of the Golden Key, presents it to the Empress. When
the Archduchesses sup with their Majesties, the same Bason is presented to
them that the Emperor has wash'd in, and a Maid of Honour presents them
with the Napkin; and when the Emperor is risen from the Table, the Two
first Archduchesses give the Emperor his Hat, and the Empress her Fan and
Gloves; but, in the Absence of the Archduchesses, this is done by a Lady
of Honour and a Maid of Honour, who must also be a Lady of the Golden Key:
After this, the Ladies who waited at Supper kiss the Empress's Hand, as
her Majesty goes out of the Room, into the Chamber of Looking-Glasses. As
soon as their Majesties are in this Chamber every body retires, to go to
the Assembly, which, when I was at _Vienna_, was held at the House of
_Madame de Rabutin_, whither came all the _Beau Monde_. Prince _Eugene_ of
_Savoy_ was there too every Night, where he play'd constantly at Picquet
with the Countess _de Badiani_ and some other Ladies. About 11 o'Clock the
Company retir'd to the Places where they had appointed to sup, tho' Supper
is a Meal they seldom indulge themselves with, all the grand
Entertainments being made at Dinners, and those extremely late.
The Empresses Dowagers are serv'd at Table with the same Ceremonies as the
Empress Regent, and they commonly eat alone, with only the Archduchesses
their Daughters. The Empress Mother always ate in private, but on
_Sundays_ and Days of Festival or _Gala_, the Empress Dowager din'd in
public.
I had the Honour to acquaint you before, when I was mentioning the
Empresses Dowagers, that they never quit their Mourning; but this must be
only understood of their Persons, for their Officers and other Domestics
are clad in Colours: Yet, as to their Maids of Honour, let the Day of
_Gala_ be never so grand, the Bodies of their Gowns must be a black
Ground, embroider'd with Gold and Silver, but their Petticoats may be of
what Colour they please. Those Princesses are never at any Play or Ball:
As for the Archduchesses, it being the Custom at _Vienna_ for Sisters to
dress alike, they must be dress'd all in their Hair upon the Days of
Ceremony and _Gala_, as well as their Maids of Honour: They generally wear
the Court Dresses; but on the Days of grand Ceremony they wear Robes, much
like Children's Vests, and very wide Petticoats with great Trains.
Upon the Days of _Gala_ there are commonly Operas and Comedies: Their
Imperial Majesties sit in the Pit, the Emperor in the chief Place, and the
Empress on his Left, and the Archduchesses are in the same Row. All those
of the Imperial Family have Arm-Chairs of the same Size and Height, with a
Stand behind, upon which is a Wax Candle. Their Operas are magnificent, as
to the Decorations and Habits, and good Judges have assur'd me, that their
Music is excellent; but for my own Part I think them as sad as most of the
_Italian_ Operas, because neither of 'em are accompany'd with Dances, or
any agreeable Entertainment.
I think, _Madame_, that I have related within a Trifle every Thing that is
remarkable at _Vienna_, whether at Court or in the City: I shall now give
you a short Account of the Persons who compos'd that august Court at the
Time that I stay'd there.
_Charles_ VI. was then upon the Imperial Throne, who is the second Son of
the Emperor _Leopold_: After the Death of _Charles_ II. King of _Spain_,
he was own'd King of that Monarchy by all the Princes of the Grand
Alliance, and he then took the Name of _Charles_ III. He went to his
Kingdom, and shew'd the _Spanish_ Nation, that he was worthy of being
their Sovereign. The Death of the Emperor _Joseph_, his Eldest Brother,
oblig'd him to return to _Germany_, and when he was at _Genoa_ he heard,
that he was chose Emperor. I have already had the Honour to give you an
Account of his Coronation. The Reign of this Monarch has been signaliz'd
by happy Events; the famous Peace concluded with _France_, restor'd that
Tranquillity to the Empire which it had been for a long time depriv'd of,
and that which was concluded some Years after with the _Turks_, secur'd
the Happiness of _Hungary_, and all the hereditary Dominions.
The Name of the Empress is _Elizabeth Christina_ of _Wolfembuttle
Blanckenberg_: She is a Princess, who, besides all the Qualities of the
Mind, has the most advantagious Aspect: She is the finest Personage at her
Court, and 'tis easy to see by her majestic Carriage, that she was form'd
by Nature to wear one of the chief Crowns in the World: She is very
magnificent in her Apparel, and especially in Diamonds, of which she has
to the Value of several Millions, and the Number is daily increasing by
considerable Presents she receives from the Emperor. This Prince does
Justice to the Merit of his august Spouse, who on her Part makes it her
whole Care to give him Proofs of her Affection; 'tis impossible to find a
more perfect Unity than that which is between their Imperial Majesties:
There are Three Princesses by this Marriage; I had the Honour to see only
the Two Eldest, for the Third was born some Years after my Journey to
_Vienna_.
She that is first in Rank, next to the Empress and the Archduchesses her
Daughters, was the Empress, Dowager of the Emperor _Leopold_, _Eleonora
Magdalena Theresa_ of _Newbourg_: She was the Mirrour of the whole Court
for Piety; for she spent most of her Time in Prayers at the Altars, or
else in bestowing Charities, which were always very great. The Greatness
of her Birth seem'd to make her uneasy, and she was vex'd to see the
Honours which her Rank and Merit had entail'd upon her; she dy'd in a very
advanc'd Age: She had several Princes and Princesses by the Emperor
_Leopold_, as 1. _Joseph-Jacob_, who dy'd Emperor at _Vienna_, the 17th of
_April_ 1711. 2. _Charles_, the present Emperor, and Three Archduchesses;
the one marry'd to the King of _Portugal_; another, Governess of the
_Netherlands_; and the Third, who resides at the Court of _Vienna_.
The Empress Dowager of the Emperor _Joseph_ resides also at the Court of
_Vienna_, and her Name is _Wilhelmina-Amelia_: She is the Daughter of the
late Duke of _Hanover_, Uncle to the King of _England_. After the Death of
her Father, who left no Male Issue, this Princess went and stay'd some
time in _France_, and her Sister having marry'd the Prince of _Modena_,
she accompany'd her into that Country, where she stay'd till her Marriage,
which was concluded at _Modena_ with the Emperor _Joseph_, then King of
the _Romans_; for whom the Duke her Brother-in-Law marry'd her as Proxy:
She went afterwards to _Vienna_, where she was the Admiration of the whole
Court, not only for the Lustre of her Person, but for the other Qualities
with which Nature has endow'd her: She took Care to cultivate her Mind
with much Reading, and especially by the Study of the Languages, to which
she gave great Application with Success, and she understands _French_ and
_Italian_ as well as her native Language. This Princess had several
Children by the Emperor her Husband, of whom there are but Two Princesses
living; the one call'd _Maria-Josepha_, marry'd to the Electoral Prince of
_Saxony_, now King of _Poland_; and the other call'd _Maria-Amelia_,
marry'd to the Electoral Prince, now the Elector, of _Bavaria_.
These, _Madame_, were the Persons of whom the Imperial Family then
consisted: I had the Honour in a few Days after my Arrival to kiss the
Hands of all this august Family, and was afterwards introduc'd to the
Ministers; so that in a very little time I was known by the whole Court,
and was so happy, as to acquire some Friends of Distinction, who gave me
Marks of their good Will, without putting me to the Trouble of dancing
Attendance, and desir'd Prince _Eugene_ to give me an Employment: I had
the Honour to wait on that Prince with particular Letters of
Recommendation, that I brought from the Elector Palatine. The Prince, who
receiv'd me very kindly, told me, that he could not insure me a Place,
because the Colonels dispos'd of all the Employments in their Regiments;
but that he would oblige me to the utmost of his Power; and indeed some
time after, he was so good as to speak for me to the Count _Max----_ of
_S----_, who gave me a Company in his Regiment, which was then in
_Sicily_. I was mightily charm'd with this Present, and imagin'd that
Fortune was at length weary of having so long thwarted me: Yet when I
began to think coolly of the Matter, I had some Reflections which made me
relapse into my former Melancholy: I was not in Cash, and I saw that I
could not avoid being at a considerable Expence. Besides, I had contracted
some dribbling Debts, which I wanted to clear before I left _Vienna_: My
Equipage was so much out of Repair, that it would cost some Money to
remount it; and finally, there was a Necessity for my going to _Sicily_;
all which Things were not to be done with a trifling Expence: Upon this
Occasion I receiv'd fresh Proofs of the Affection of my Friends, who all
interested themselves for me effectually: _Madamoseille de K----_, Maid of
Honour to the Empress Dowager, procur'd me a Gratuity from her Imperial
Majesty; and the Countess of _W----_, at whose House I was every Day,
advanc'd me a Thousand Ducats, saying, That I should pay her when I was
able, or rather, when I was preferr'd to be a Lieutenant-General. She
accompany'd her Generosity too with some Advice, that was truly wise and
christian, and seem'd to come rather from the Lips of a Mother than a
Friend. This Lady was heartily glad that I had chang'd my Religion, and
was the more willing to assist me in making an End of my Affairs, for Fear
that I should be overcome by the Temptation of turning Protestant again,
for the Sake of getting Employment in my own Country.
You see, _Madame_, by what I have just had the Honour to mention to you,
that I was now in a Condition to quit _Vienna_ with Credit, and indeed my
Stay there was no longer than to be a Spectator of Two great Solemnities,
of which I am next to give you a Description: The first was the Entry of a
_Turkish_ Ambassador, and the second the Marriage of the Archduchess
_Maria-Josepha_ with the Electoral Prince of _Saxony_; upon both which
Occasions the Imperial Court made the fullest Display of its Magnificence.
As to the Entry of the Ambassador, I may venture to say, it was only
magnificent on the Part of the Imperial Court, for in Truth the
Mahometan's whole Train and Equipage were very inconsiderable. This
Ambassador's Name was _Ibrahim Basha_; he had 600 Men in his Retinue, but
they were all very shabbily rigg'd. Till the Day of his Entry he stay'd in
a Camp, which he had caus'd to be form'd Two Leagues from _Vienna_; I went
thither with some Friends to see him: He receiv'd us with very great
Civility, and made us a Present of Coffee and Sweetmeats. During this
Collation I took a minute View of the Inside of his Tent, which was really
stately, and the largest that I ever saw: On the Ground there was a noble
Carpet spread, and over that a Sort of Foot-cloth of Crimson Sattin,
embroider'd with Gold, on which sate the Ambassador, with rich Cushions
about him of the same: On this same Foot-cloth, at the Ambassador's Right
Hand sate the Secretary of the Embassy: Round the Ambassador there was
about a Score of Turks tolerably well dress'd, and among them Three or
Four clever likely young Fellows; in particular I observ'd a Moor there,
that was the handsomest Man I ever saw: His Dress was richer than the Garb
of the other Turks, and, as I was told, he was the Ambassador's special
Favourite. After we had talk'd awhile with him, and were taking our Leave
of him, he was so civil as to offer to shew us his Camp, which we with
Pleasure accepted, and set out accordingly with a Person that the
Ambassador gave us for our Guide.
This Camp took up more Space of Ground than would have serv'd for 2000
Men. The Tents were a great way from one another, and plac'd without any
Order. Their Horses, Oxen and Camels were all stow'd _higledy pigledy_.
But the Ambassador's particular Equipage was in a Sort of Park, inclos'd
by Toils like those that are us'd in Hunting: Every thing was to the last
Degree slovenly, the inferior Domestics especially were the most
disagreeable Gentry I ever saw; they had not Cloaths to their Backs, but
what were in Rags and Tatters; and the chief Domestics were but little
better rigg'd; several of them however were mighty civil to us, and
desirous to regale us in their Tents.
Some Days after this our Visit, the Ambassador made his Entry with great
Ceremony; the Marshal of the Court went and met him Half a League out of
_Vienna_, at the Head of the Magistrates of the City, those made free by
the Court, all the Trading Companies and Gentlemen, all well mounted and
richly dress'd: The Ambassador was dragg'd along by a Pair of wretched
Horses in one of his own Coaches, which was a little low Chariot, made
almost like the cover'd Waggons of _Holland_, except that instead of Wax
Cloth and Leather, it was cover'd with a red Cloth. When the Ambassador
and the Marshal of the Court came near to one another, they both alighted,
and after mutual Compliments mounted their Horses: There were carry'd
before the Ambassador Three Horse-Tails and the Standard of _Mahomet_,
which is a great Pair of Colours of green Taffeta, all sprinkled with
Crescents of Gold: He who carry'd it was on Horseback, and that the End of
the Colours might not trail upon the Ground, a Man that was on Foot held
up the Corners of it. The Ambassador was preceded by all his Equipage, in
which there was Half a Dozen of Waggons, cover'd with ragged Tilts, and
drawn each by Four scrubbed Horses, that were led by Carters, whose
Cloaths were in a very bad Pickle. After this Equipage came the
Ambassador's Officers, and then twelve Horses, of which the Sultan made a
Present to the Emperor. Behind the Ambassador there march'd a Company of
_Spahis_, that carry'd Pikes, with small Standards at the End of various
Colours. These were follow'd by a Company of _Janizaries_, who, tho' but
meanly clad, made a very warlike Appearance, their Arms and Legs being
both naked: The March was closed by a Regiment of _Hussars_.
This Train pass'd before the Palace call'd _la Favorita_, in View of the
Emperor and Empress, and then went thro' the City, passing the Bridge over
the _Danube_, into the Suburb of _Leopoldstat_, where a House was prepar'd
for him, according to antient Custom, which is, that no _Turkish_
Ambassador must ever lodge in the City of _Vienna_.
The Ambassador seem'd to be very scrupulous in his Observation of the
Ceremonial: He was loth to consent, that the _Janizaries_ should carry
their Muskets on their Shoulders, when they pass'd before the Emperor at
his Palace _la Favorita_; and pleaded in Excuse, that the _Janizaries_ did
not march so even in Presence of the Sultan. He stood also upon his
Punctilio in some other Trifles, to which however he was oblig'd to
submit, or he was threaten'd that he should not make his Entry. The
Ambassador on his Part to shew his Resentment, caus'd only Two Horse-Tails
to be carry'd erect, and the Third downwards; but seeing that no body
car'd for his being out of Humour, he soon came to himself again, and then
was treated with Civility. He seem'd to be very fond of good Order, and
caus'd some of his Domestics, who had committed certain Enormities, to be
severely punish'd.
While the Ambassador stay'd at _Leopoldstat_, _Vienna_ swarm'd with
_Turks_, most of whom having never been out of their own Country, star'd
with so much Surprise at every thing they saw, that it afforded daily
Diversion to the Public. One Day I observ'd a _Turk_ entring _St.
Stephen_'s Church at the Time when there was no Service, nor so much as a
Soul in the Church. I was so curious as to follow him at a Distance, and
to observe all his Motions, which made me very merry: The Place at which
he discover'd the greatest Astonishment was the Choir, the Form of the
Clergy's Stalls there, the Construction of the High Altar; in a Word,
every thing was to him a perfect Novelty: But the Thing which seem'd to
puzzle him most of all was, a noble Lamp burning in the midst of the
Choir: He turn'd round and round it again, and view'd it on every Side for
a long while, but seem'd as much confounded as at first, wondring to be
sure how they did to kindle it. Mean time, after a little Pause, he
observ'd a String underneath it, which he took into his Head to pull, and
finding that all came towards him, he brought the Lamp down to the Ground.
I observ'd that he was mightily pleas'd that he had found out the Meaning
of the Difficulty which had so much perplex'd him; and when the Fire was
so near him, he pull'd a long Pipe out of his Pocket with so much Gravity,
that I could not help smiling; and after he had lighted it at the Lamp,
he hoisted it to the Place it was in before, and then went out.
Not many Days after the Entry of the _Turkish_ Ambassador was the Ceremony
of the Marriage of the Archduchess _Maria-Josepha_ to the Electoral Prince
of _Saxony_. The Marriage had been projected a long time, and 'tis even
said, that the Emperor _Joseph_ had promis'd the King of _Poland_ in
Writing to give his Eldest Daughter to the Electoral Prince, on Condition
that he would turn to the Catholic Religion. Meantime, while this Match
hung in Suspence, the Electoral Prince of _Bavaria_ enter'd the List,
which very much embarras'd the Court of _Vienna_, who did not know for
which Match to determine. The Person employ'd in this Negotiation by the
_Saxon_ Court was the Count _de Wackerbarth_. Soon after him the Electoral
Prince in Person came to the Court of _Vienna_, and when he was oblig'd to
return, he left the Count _de Lagnasco_ there to take Care of his
Interest; who at length obtain'd the Emperor's Consent, and the Count _de
F----_ came with the Character of Ambassador to demand the Princess of the
Emperor, which was done with very great Solemnity. As I was curious to
know the Ceremonies usual upon such Occasions, I went to the Count _de
F----_, on the Day that he was to go on the Emperor for his Audience. Who
should I see arrive but the Count _D'Oropesa_, a Grandee of _Spain_,
Knight of the Golden Fleece, and one of the Emperor's Chamberlains, in a
Coach drawn by Six Horses, follow'd by a second Coach and Six, with the
Emperor's Arms and Liveries: His Imperial Majesty's Footmen and the
Count's Lackeys walk'd on each Side of the first Coach. The Count _de
F----_ receiv'd the Count _D'Oropesa_ as he alighted out of his Coach, and
conducted him into a Room, where Two Chairs of State were plac'd under a
Canopy of Crimson Velvet, inrich'd with Embroidery and Gold Fringe; and
over the Chairs was plac'd the Picture of the King of _Poland_. The Two
Counts seated themselves in the Chairs of State, the Ambassador giving the
Right Hand to the Count. They were both cover'd, talk'd for about a
Quarter of an Hour, and then went out. The Ambassador stepp'd first into
the Emperor's Coach, and then the Count _D'Oropesa_, the former riding
forwards, and the latter backwards over-against him. Four of the principal
_Saxon_ Gentlemen in the Ambassador's Retinue went into the second Coach.
Then the March began, when one of the Coaches of the Court led the Way,
follow'd by one of the Ambassador's Officers, at the Head of Twenty-four
of his Excellency's Lackeys; the Coach wherein the Two Counts rode
follow'd next; the Emperor's Footmen and the Count _D'Oropesa_'s Lackeys
walking on each Side: Then came Eight of the Ambassador's Pages, Four of
whom were in the _German_, and Four in the _Polish_ Dress; their Coats
were of blue Velvet lac'd with Gold: Four Pages of the Back-stairs clad in
blue Cloth lac'd with Gold follow'd the other Pages, and Three of the
Ambassador's Coaches with Six Horses each clos'd the March: In this Order
did the Train arrive at the Palace; the Ambassador's first Coach enter'd
alone into the Inner Court, the Two others stay'd in the Outer Court. The
Ambassador found the Emperor under a Canopy, and in the Name of the King
his Master demanded the Archduchess of him in Marriage for the Electoral
Prince: The Emperor made him Answer, that he was very willing, on
condition that the Empress, Mother to the Archduchess, and the Archduchess
herself gave their Consent. After this Audience the Ambassador was
conducted to the Empress Regent, and to the Empress Mother, of whom he
made the same Demand, almost in the same Terms. The Princesses answer'd,
That if the Emperor was willing, and the Empress _Amelia_ and the
Archduchess consented to it, they should see the Marriage concluded with
Pleasure: Then the Ambassador was conducted to an Audience of the Empress
_Amelia_, of whom he made the same Demand, telling her too of the Answer
he had receiv'd from the Emperor and the Empresses. This Empress made
Answer, That the Emperor's Will was always Her's, that the Electoral
Prince was a Match that she lik'd, and that she hop'd the Archduchess her
Daughter would not be against it; and that she would go that Instant, and
let her know what he came about: At the same time she turn'd to the
Countess of _Caraffa_, her Lady of Honour, and bad her send for the
Archduchess: This Princess, being in an adjacent Room, came that Moment,
dress'd most richly: And the Empress told her what the Ambassador had just
declar'd to her on the Part of the King of _Poland_, relating to her
Marriage with his Son the Electoral Prince: She added, that the Emperor,
the Empresses and Herself had agreed to the Match; that nevertheless she
was left absolutely to her own Disposal, and that the Emperor did not mean
to constrain her: The Archduchess made Answer, That she had no Objection
to the Marriage, and that she obey'd their Imperial Majesties Orders with
Respect. After this Declaration the Ambassador advanc'd, and addressing
himself to the Archduchess, presented her with the Electoral Prince's
Picture adorn'd with Diamonds, which this Princess accepted, and without
looking on it gave it to the Empress her Mother: The Empress, after having
diligently view'd it, went to fasten it to the Body of the Archduchess's
Gown, but the Ambassador desir'd her Imperial Majesty to grant him that
Honour; and after this Ceremony he return'd to his Palace as he came.
The Emperor, the Empress Regent and the Empress Mother went to the
Apartment of the Empress Dowager, where, after mutual Compliments of
Congratulation, their Majesties din'd together. In the Evening the Emperor
and the Empresses went to pay a Visit to the Archduchess, that was to be
marry'd, where the whole Court was present, and there was great Play,
after which their Imperial Majesties and the Archduchess went and supp'd
with the Empress _Amelia_.
Some Days after this, the Ambassador of _Poland_ went again in Ceremony,
but with his own Coaches, to the Palace _la Favorita_, where, in the
Presence of all the Imperial Family, all the Ministers and Privy
Counsellors, and the Knights of the Golden Fleece, he solemnly renounc'd
the Right of Succession in the Name of the King his Master, and of the
Electoral Prince of _Saxony_, in case it pleas'd God that the Emperor
should dye without Male Issue. The Count _de Sinzendorf_, Chancellor of
the Court, read the Act of Renunciation to all present, after which the
Emperor demanded the Consent of the Archduchess, and the Princess giving
her said Consent, the Emperor order'd an Oath thereupon to be
administer'd to her, which she took accordingly before the Archbishop of
_Valencia_. This Prelate being dress'd in his Pontificalibus before an
Altar that had been erected in the Chamber, gave the Book of the Gospels
to the Princess, who laying her Hands thereon, solemnly renounc'd the
Rights of Succession. The Ambassador swore the same Thing in the Name of
the King his Master, and the Electoral Prince of _Saxony_.
In a few Days after this was done, the Electoral Prince set out from
_Dresden_, and came to a House made ready for him Two Leagues from
_Vienna_. Having sent Notice of his Arrival to the Emperor, the Empresses
and the Archduchess, the Emperor dispatch'd the Count _de Molard_ the
chief Steward of his Kitchen to him, as the Empresses and the
Archduchesses did the Gentlemen of their Housholds, to compliment him
thereupon: Next Day the Prince came _incognito_ to the Convent of Nuns
founded by the Empress _Amelia_, who also repair'd thither with the Two
Archduchesses her Daughters. After an Interview of about Half an Hour, the
Archduchess, that was to be marry'd, and the Electoral Prince of _Saxony_,
went to the Church, and there confess'd; which done, the Prince return'd
to his House, which, as I have had the Honour to observe to you, was Two
Leagues from _Vienna_. He came again from thence next Day at Six in the
Evening, and alighted at the Palace _la Favorita_, where being conducted
into the great Chamberlain's Apartment, he there chang'd his Cloaths, and
was then introduc'd by the great Chamberlain to the Emperor, and his
Imperial Majesty led him to the Empress's Apartment, where were the Two
Empress Dowagers and all the Archduchesses. The Emperor presented the
Prince to them, and then they went to the Chapel in the following Order:
The March was begun by all the Lords and Ladies of the Court; then came
the Electoral Prince, with one of his Gentlemen, bearing a Wax Candlestick
before him. The Emperor immediately follow'd the Prince, and then came the
Three Empresses and the Archduchess, who was supported by the Two Empress
Dowagers, the Empress Regent walking foremost, as she always did
where-ever they went: The latter had on a Straw-colour'd Gown of Silver
Tissue, adorn'd with Diamonds, and her Head Dress was adorn'd all over
with Pearls like Pears. The Archduchess, whom I shall hereafter call the
_Electoral Princess_, was also very richly dress'd; she wore a Fardingale,
and her Gown was of Silver Brocade adorn'd with Diamonds: Next to the
Princess the Three Archduchesses walk'd one after another, led each by
their Equerries: These Princesses were follow'd by their Ladies, whose
Dresses were of extraordinary Magnificence. As soon as the Electoral
Prince and Princess were arriv'd in the Chapel, they received the nuptial
Benediction from the Archbishop of _Vienna_. When the Ceremony was ended,
the Imperial Family return'd to the Empress's Closet, where they stay'd
near Two Hours, and then repair'd to the Table, in the same Order as they
observ'd when they went to the Church. The Hall of the Festival was set
off in an extraordinary manner; the Table was plac'd upon a Floor rais'd
Three Steps, which form'd an oblong Square. The Emperor and the Three
Empresses sate at one End; the Electoral Princess sate on the Right Side
of the Table, and at the Right Hand of the Empress Mother; the Electoral
Prince, who had the second Place on the Right Hand of the Princess, had a
Chair with only a Back to it, and was serv'd by one of his own
Chamberlains; whereas the Princess and the Archduchesses sate in
Arm-chairs, and were attended by the Emperor's Chamberlains: Over-against
the Princess, on the Left Hand of the Empress _Amelia_, sate the
Archduchess her Daughter, and the Two Archduchesses the Emperor's Sisters:
The Court Ladies stood all round the Table till their Imperial Majesties
had each drank once, and then they went to sit down at Tables serv'd in
different Rooms, but return'd to the Desart: There was such a Number of
Services, that the Supper held a long time, during which it was animated
by excellent Music: In the same Room a Sort of Gallery was erected for the
_Turkish_ Ambassador, who saw all the Supper, and was attended by 30 of
his Domestics. Care was taken to serve him with Sweetmeats and other
Refreshments; and the Interpreter having ask'd him what he thought of the
Magnificence of the Court of _Vienna_; he answer'd very gallantly, That
noble as this Appearance was, there was nothing so grand in the whole
Entertainment as the Person of the Empress.
After Supper was ended, the Empress Dowagers led the Princess into her own
Apartment, and did not retire till she was in Bed: Next Day the Prince and
Princess receiv'd the Compliments of the whole Court; they din'd
afterwards with the Emperor and the Empresses, and at Night went and saw a
new Opera, that was compos'd upon account of their Nuptials. The Emperor
sate there as usual, with the Empress on his Left Hand, and the
Archduchesses one after another in the same Row; the Electoral Princess
preserv'd the Precedence due to her Birth; the Electoral Prince sate in
the same Line as the Emperor, but after all the Archduchesses. The Opera
was most magnificent, yet I thought it very tedious, for really 'twas too
long; and besides, the Heat was intolerable: When the Opera was over, the
Imperial Family supp'd together, as they did next Day at Dinner, which was
the last Meal that the Prince and Princess made at _Vienna_; for as soon
as they rose from Table, they took Leave of the Emperor and the Empresses,
and set out for _Dresden_. There arose some Difficulty touching the
Ceremonial that was to be observ'd as they pass'd thro' _Prague_, to avoid
which the Electoral Prince went before, and pass'd round the Town; but the
Princess made her Entry there.
* * * * *
As soon as the Princess was gone, I began to think what a tedious Journey
I should have before I could join my Regiment, which, as I have had the
Honour to tell you, was in _Sicily_. As this Journey would naturally keep
me a long time out of my own Country, I was willing first of all to settle
my Affairs. For this Reason I desir'd a Month's Furlough, and went to
_Dresden_, from whence I sent for my Steward to come and meet me. I chose
to stay at _Dresden_ rather than _Berlin_, not only on account of the
Solemnity of the Princess's Entry, of which I was fond to be a Spectator,
but because of the Enemies I had at the Court of _Prussia_, who would
perhaps have done me some ill Office with the King. Having set out from
_Vienna_ a few Days after the Electoral Princess, I arrived at _Dresden_
the same Day that her Highness made her Entry there. The Preparations
made for receiving the Princess were of the utmost Magnificence, so that
one could hardly imagine any thing more rich and gay. In order to give you
some Idea of the _Polish_ Magnificence, I will resume my Narrative from
the Time of the Princess's Departure from _Prague_.
As soon as the King had Notice that the Princess was gone from _Prague_,
he sent the Count _de Wackerbarth_, Grand Master of the Artillery, at the
Head of several Gentlemen, to meet her: The Count, who met the Princess on
the Frontiers of _Bohemia_, complimented her in the King's Name, and
presented those Officers to her which his Majesty sent to attend her; for
till then she had been waited on by the Officers of the Emperor, who had
all along defray'd her Expences. Her Highness proceeded in her Journey to
_Pirna_, the first Town in _Saxony_, where she was receiv'd by the
Electoral Prince, and saluted by the Cannon of the Castle of
_Sonnenstein_. Next Day, at 7 o'Clock in the Morning, the Prince and
Princess went on board the _Bucentaure_, which was a Galley finely rigg'd,
and call'd by that Name, because 'twas built after the Model of the
_Bucentaure_ of _Venice_: Their Galley was accompany'd by 100 Gondolas,
painted and richly gilded, and by 12 Fregates, from 6 to 12 Guns each: All
the Gondoliers and Sailors had Jackets of Sky-blue Sattin, and Breeches of
yellow Sattin, lac'd with Silver. With this gallant Fleet, worthy to carry
_Thetis_ and _Amphitrite_, the Prince and Princess arriv'd within Half a
League of _Dresden_.
The King went in Cavalcade to the Place where the Princess landed, some
Hours before her Arrival, and was attended by the Nobility of his Court,
all richly dres'd. The King especially was attir'd most sumptuously, in
shorn Velvet of a purple Colour, adorn'd with Diamonds, to the Value of
Two Millions of Crowns: He caus'd his Standard to be carry'd before him by
a _Polander_, arm'd _cap-a-pie_. As soon as he came to the Landing-Place,
he made a Review of the Train that was to compose the Entry, and retir'd
afterwards to a magnificent Tent, lin'd with yellow Velvet, adorn'd with
Silver Lace, to wait the Arrival of the Princess.
As soon as the _Bucentaure_ came near enough to be seen from Land, she
made a triple Discharge of all her Artillery, which were answer'd by the
Cannon of Five Yatchts that were at Anchor on the _Elbe_, over-against the
King's Tent, and from the Batteries on Shore.
During this the King went to the Ships, over a Bridge erected for that
Purpose, and cover'd with green Tapistry, sprinkled with Flowers. The
_Bucentaure_ dropping her Anchor, the Princess made ready to meet the
King: When she came near him, she would fain have kiss'd his Hand, but the
Monarch embrac'd her tenderly, and conducted her to his Tent, where he had
some Conversation with the Prince and Princess, and then left them to
return to _Dresden_.
The Prince and Princess sate down to Table, and a grand Breakfast was
serv'd up; then the Boards of the Tent were struck down, that their
Highnesses might see the Troops and Equipage march by that were to compose
their Retinue at their Entry into _Dresden_: All this lasted about Two
Hours; then came a stately Coach drawn by Eight Horses, being the Equipage
that was for the Princess, who sate in it alone, while the Prince her
Husband rode on Horseback, and they made their Entry with all the Pomp
and Magnificence possible.
I own to you, _Madame_, that I was so charmed with the Disposition that
was observ'd in this Procession, and especially with the Richness and
Elegancy of the Habiliments, that I cannot resist the Temptation I feel to
give you the Particulars, but must submit to it, tho' I run the Risque
perhaps of being thought too tedious.
The Cavalcade was open'd by the King's Harbinger on Horseback, in the
_Saxon_ Livery, which was yellow Cloth, with broad Lace of blue Velvet,
mix'd with Silver Lace.
Then came 2 Post Masters.
The Baron _de Mordax_, Post Master General, preceded by his Domestics on
Foot.
40 Post Masters of _Saxony_ clad in white with yellow Lace, the whole
edg'd with Silver, as were also the Housings of their Horses, which were
all over black.
100 Postilions dress'd in yellow with blue Lace, they had Caps like
Dragoons, and the Housings of their Horses were embroider'd with the
King's Arms.
120 Led Horses richly caparison'd, belonging to the chief Lords of the
Court.
A Kettle-Drummer and 6 Trumpets, dress'd in the antique Garb in black
Cloth and yellow, with Gold Lace.
50 Halberdiers on Horseback, dress'd also in the antique manner, in the
yellow, black and gold Colours, bearing Halberds: These represented the
ancient Guards of the Electors of _Saxony_.
The Nobility of _Lusatia_ dress'd in black Velvet, with Buttons and
Button-holes of Gold.
24 Horses cover'd with great Housings of yellow Cloth, adorn'd with 2
Silver Lace Edgings, and the embroider'd Arms of the 24 Cities or
Provinces of _Saxony_ and _Poland_.
A Kettle-Drummer and 6 Trumpets, habited like the former.
The Nobility of _Saxony_ dress'd in black Velvet Coats, with Buttons and
Loops of Gold, and Waistcoats of Gold Brocade.