_To Madame_ DE ----.
The Conduct of the Court of _Spain_, tho' it really made the Court of
_Vienna_ uneasy, did not hinder the Emperor from carrying on the War
against the _Turks_ with Vigour: And Heaven so prosper'd the Imperial
Arms, that in 1718 Prince _Eugene_ gain'd the most signal Victory near
_Belgrade_ that the Christians could have hop'd for. Soon after that
Battle the victorious Troops reduc'd _Belgrade_, and at length the _Turks_
were forc'd to sue for a Peace: While every Thing seem'd to have a
Tendency that way, _Spain_ put to Sea the most formidable Fleet she had
ever equipp'd since that unfortunate one call'd, _The Invincible Armado_;
and sent it to the Coast of _Sicily_, where it put a numerous Army on
Shore, under Command of the Marquis _de Lede_. The Count _de Maffei_
Viceroy of the Kingdom for the Duke of _Savoy_, who was King of _Sicily_,
made all the Resistance possible, considering the Weakness of his Army;
and tho' not able to save the Island, yet he made such a Defence as
hinder'd the _Spanish_ Army from pushing its Conquests farther by giving
Time to Admiral _Bing_, who commanded the _English_ Fleet, to enter the
_Mediterranean_, and execute the Orders he had to attack the _Spanish_
Fleet. These Orders imported, that he was to act in a friendly manners in
case that _Spain_ desisted from its Enterprizes against the Neutrality of
_Italy_; but otherwise to make a vigorous Resistance. Admiral _Bing_
communicated these Orders to Cardinal _Alberoni_, who answer'd him
gravely, _That he had nothing to do but to put them in Execution_. The
Admiral did so with a Vengeance; for on the 11th of _August_ he gave
Battle to the _Spanish_ Fleet, and intirely defeated it. As soon as the
Duke Regent was inform'd of the News, he sent away a Courier to the
_French_ Ambassador at _Madrid_, with Letters from the Earl of _Stairs_ to
the _English_ Ambassador Earl _Stanhope_. The Design of his Royal Highness
was to engage the latter to return to _Madrid_, from whence he set out on
the 27th of _August_, that he might make fresh Instances there for a Peace
with Cardinal _Alberoni_, who to be sure was a little stunn'd at this
Reverse of Fortune. But the Earl, whether he did not meet the Courier, or
whether he did not think it proper to return to _Spain_, arriv'd at
_Paris_ on the 9th of _September_.
Mean Time the War betwixt the Emperor and the _Turks_ was at an End, and
Orders were actually given for sending the Imperial Troops into _Italy_.
The Regent despairing at that Time of persuading the King of _Spain_ to a
Peace, order'd the Abbat _du Bois_, the _French_ Ambassador at _London_,
to sign the Treaty commonly call'd _The Quadruple Alliance_, in
Conjunction with the Ambassadors of _England_ and the Emperor. He also
repeated his Orders to the Duke of _St. Aignan_, to try all the means
imaginable to prevail on the King of _Spain_ to accede to the Terms that
were propos'd to him by the Quadruple Alliance; but his Catholic Majesty
persisted so long in his Refusal, that his Royal Highness resolv'd to
declare War against him, and the Duke of _St. Aignan_ had Orders to demand
his Audience of Leave.
At that Time the Regent happily discover'd a Conspiracy that was form'd
against him in the very Heart of the Kingdom. The King of _England_ had
before appriz'd him, that there was some Contrivance on Foot; but the
Names of the Conspirators, and what they were to do, was a Secret. Mean
time the Regent suspecting that all these Intrigues were only fomented by
the Minister of _Spain_, he caus'd the Prince _de la Cellamare_,
Ambassador from that Crown, to be so narrowly watch'd that he was soon let
into the Secret of the whole Intrigue carrying on against him, which was
in short no less than to remove him from the Regency. The _Spanish_
Minister for the better Success had caus'd a Body of Troops to be
assembled in _France_, where they stroll'd about like Fellows that dealt
in unlicens'd Salt, and other Contraband Goods; but upon a particular Day
they were to enter _Paris_, invest the Royal Palace, and to secure the
Person of the Regent. The Conspiracy was detected almost at the same
Instant that it was to have been executed; and of this the Prince _de
Cellamare_ himself was partly the Cause; not that I suspect him of having
betray'd the _Spanish_ Minister, but probably he was too credulous of
every one that came to him; for I was told, that the Pacquet containing
the whole Mystery of the Conspiracy, and the Names of the Conspirators,
was put into the Hands of the Abbat _Portocarrero_, in Presence of a
Couple of Domesticks, whose infidelity was not perhaps Proof against the
Lewidors of the Royal Palace. Besides, this Abbat, tho' a Person of Merit,
had not perhaps Experience or Wisdom enough to behave as was absolutely
necessary in so ticklish an Affair. Be this as it will, he set out for
_Madrid_ with such Dispatches committed to his Care as contain'd the
Fortunes of a great Number of People. He had not travell'd far, when, as
he was passing a Ford, his Chaise broke, and he had like to have been
drown'd; but notwithstanding the Danger of his Person, he seem'd to be
more in Pain for his Trunk than for his Life. This Earnestness for the
Preservation of his Trunk gave a Suspicion to those who attended him; and
the Spies whom the Regent had planted upon him, advertis'd that Prince of
it time enough for him to give his Orders to the Commandant of _Poictiers_
to cause him to be arrested, and his Trunk to be secur'd. The Abbat was
accordingly arrested[1], and brought back to _Paris_. The Prince _de
Cellamare_, being inform'd of what had pass'd, claim'd the Trunk, saying
it contain'd the Memoirs of his Embassy: He was given to understand, that
his Word was not to be taken, and the Trunk being open'd at the Royal
Palace, there was all the Scheme of the Conspiracy, and the List of the
Persons that were enter'd into it. The Thing that gave the Regent most
Vexation was, to see the Names of Persons there, upon whom he had heap'd
his Favours. His Royal Highness acted in this delicate Conjuncture with
all the Moderation possible, and his Behaviour was in every Respect so
discreet, that it was hardly discernible that any Thing extraordinary was
passing in _France_; he caus'd the Abbat _Portocarrero_ to be releas'd, as
an insignificant Tool; but as to the Prince _de Cellamare_, he was invited
to a Conference at the Royal Palace, to which he no sooner arriv'd, but
Messengers were sent to clap a Seal on his Effects. The Ministers went
with him afterwards to his own House, where he was surpriz'd to find a
Guard that was charg'd to be answerable for his Person. Some Days after
this, all his Papers were examin'd, and Three Boxes were fill'd with them
in his Presence, which were seal'd and carry'd to the _Louvre_, there to
be kept till the King of _Spain_ sent Persons that he could confide in to
fetch them. At length on the 13th of _December_, the Prince _de Cellamare_
set out from _Paris_ with a Guard: As for the Smugglers, they vanish'd as
soon as the Conspiracy was brought to Light: All this pass'd in the Month
of _December_, 1718.
The 29th of the same Month the Duke and Duchess of _Maine_ were arrested:
The Duke had been the Day before to pay a Visit to the Duchess of
_Orleans_ at the Royal Palace, and stay'd there Three Hours, after which
he return'd to lye at _Seaux_; where next Morning a Lieutenant of the
Guards came and told him, that he had Orders to carry him under a strong
Guard to the Castle of _Dourlens_. The same Day at Seven in the Morning,
the Marquis _D'Ancenis_, who was Captain of the Guards after the Death of
his Father the Duke of _Charost_, during whose Life he had the Post in
Reversion, had an Order to arrest the Duchess of _Maine_: This Officer had
supp'd but the Night before with the Princess, and stayed with her very
late; guess then how he must be surpriz'd when he came Home, and found the
_Letter de Cachet_ or Warrant, which put him upon an Office that he would
have been glad to be excused from serving; but the Order must be obeyed,
and therefore he went next Day to the Princess's Apartment, who was then
in Bed, as were also her Ladies; so that the Servants were very much
startled to see M. _D'Ancenis_ there again so early, and scrupled at first
to awake the Duchess; but, as they imagined the Marquis was come about an
Affair of great Consequence, the Ladies let him in: The Princess, being
wak'd out of her Sleep by the Noise of the Door, as it open'd, ask'd, Who
was there? M. _D'Ancenis_ having told her his Name, she said to him
hastily, _Oh! my God! What have I done to you, that you should disturb me
so soon in the Morning?_ He then told her the melancholy Commission that
he was sent upon. They say, her Ladyship was much more provok'd at this
Disgrace than the Duke her Husband; and she could not help dropping some
Words which shew'd plain enough that she was impatient under her
Misfortune. However, she was quickly dress'd, and getting into a Coach
with Three of her Waiting-Women, she was conducted to the Castle of
_Dijon_: All her chief Domestics were committed, some to the _Bastille_,
and others to _Vincennes_. The Prince of _Dombes_ and the Count _de Eu_
were banish'd to _Eu_, where they had so much Liberty however, that this
Change of Fortune had not altogether the Air of Disgrace. As for
_Maidemoiselle de Maine_, the Princess of _Conty_ took her Home with her.
The Cardinal _de Polignac_, who was very much attach'd to the Family of
_Maine_, also shar'd their Fate; for he was banish'd to his Abbey of
_Anchin_, and had but Two Hours allow'd him to set his Affairs in Order.
While these Things pass'd in _France_, the King of _Spain_, or rather his
Minister, caus'd the Duke of _St. Aignan_, the Ambassador of _France_, to
be very ill treated, who having taken Leave of the King and Queen, stay'd
some Days longer to settle his domestic Affairs, perhaps also to see what
Turn Things would take, in case the King of _Spain_, who was then
dangerously ill, should die. I am assur'd that the King having told him,
that by his Will he left the Regency to the Queen and Cardinal _Alberoni_,
the Ambassador made Answer, That his Testamentary Settlement might
probably be of as little Effect as _Lewis_ XIV's was. This Answer
displeas'd the Cardinal, who thought of nothing but of being reveng'd; and
indeed some time after, the Marquis _de Grimaldo_, Secretary of State,
went to the Duke of _St. Aignan_, and signify'd an Order to him from the
King, to leave _Madrid_ in Twenty-four Hours, and the Kingdom in Twelve
Days. 'Twas 10 o'Clock at Night when this Order was notify'd, and next
Day, _viz._ the 14th of _December_, at 7 o'Clock in the Morning, the
Ambassador's House was surrounded by a Party of Life-Guards, commanded by
an Exempt, who having plac'd Centinels at all the Doors of his Lodging,
enter'd the Duke's Apartment, who was still a-bed with his Duchess, made
them dress themselves with all Speed, and then conducted them out of the
City.
Cardinal _Alberoni_, who did not yet know, that the Plot he had laid was
discover'd, wrote with Speed to the Prince of _Cellamare_, that he might
guess what to expect after the Treatment that had been shewn to the
Ambassador of _France_; tho' he told him, that ought not to be a Reason
for using him in the same manner, and that the Duke _de St. Aignan_'s
Misbehaviour had made it necessary to take that Course with him. He
exhorted him not to stir from _Paris_, till he was compell'd to it by
Force, nor even then, till he had made all the convenient Protests. He
said to him in the Conclusion, _Put the Case that your Excellency be
oblig'd to go, you will first set Fire to all your Mines_. Little did he
think how terribly they were at that Time countermin'd!
This Letter, which was a farther Confirmation of the Prince _de
Cellamare_'s Conspiracy, and the Affront put upon the Ambassador of the
most Christian King, intirely convinc'd the Regent, that the _Spanish_
Minister was resolv'd to go all Lengths. War was declar'd on both Sides,
in which _Spain_ did not come off with Honour. I shall have further
Occasion to speak of it to you some Time hereafter.
I am next to give you an Account, how it far'd with myself at this Time:
Tho' I had no Hand in this Plot, yet I was shrewdly suspected; for several
Conferences were held at my House: I was intimate with those who were
deepest in the Secret, and in Fine, whether it proceeded from Prudence,
or from a Panic, I resolv'd to take Care of myself. I set out from _Paris_
in a very great Hurry, with a Design to repair to the Palatine Court, and
stay there till the Storm was quite over. I went to _Germany_ thro'
_Lorrain_, but had much ado to get thither, because I had no Passport, and
Orders were arriv'd from Court, to stop all that travell'd without one; I
therefore thought of the following Stratagem.
* * * * *
About a League from _Toul_, which is the last Place in _France_, I feign'd
myself sick, that I might have some colour for halting there, and
dismissing my Postilion. At that Village I lay all Night, and rising very
early next Morning, I told my Landlady that I would go to _Toul_ on Foot,
and desir'd her to send my Boots according to a Direction I left with her.
My Design was to go into _Toul_ as a Townsman; for I hop'd, that my being
on Foot, and not having the Air of a Traveller, I should pass without
Molestation; but I was quite mistaken; for the Guard stopp'd me, and ask'd
me, Who I was, and, Wither I was bound? I said, That I was a _German_,
that I had been the _Valet de Chambre_ of a _German_ Nobleman, who dy'd at
_Paris_, and that I was returning from thence Homewards. The Officer
carry'd me before the King's Lieutenant, who, I thought, was a mere Brute;
yet I think I should be in the Wrong to complain, for I gave myself out
for a Footman, and really as such he treated me: He put several Questions
to me, which I always made Answer to like a most submissive Lackey, in
Hopes of soothing his sullen Humour; but nothing could defend me from his
Reproaches: _You are not a Footman_, said he, _I rather believe you are
some Bankrupt; therefore tell me the Truth, or I'll instantly throw you
into a Dungeon._ I still affirm'd, that I was a Footman; but the
Lieutenant, not well pleas'd with my Answer, committed me to the
Guard-House, where he left me Five or Six Hours, and then sent me Word,
that I might go to an Inn: I was conducted thither by a Soldier, who was
always a Guard upon me, and next Day carry'd me again before the King's
Lieutenant, who took me into his Closet, and told me, 'Twas to no Purpose
for me to think of concealing myself any longer from him; for that he was
just inform'd who I was, by a Person who knew me. I own, _Madame_, that I
began to be afraid, yet I stood to my Text still, with all the Assurance
that could be. He then call'd one of his Domestics, and bid him fetch the
Man that knew me; but 'twas well for me, that this Person had no Existence
but in his Imagine. Mean Time he seem'd to be out of Patience that he did
not come; and at last told me, that I must return to the Guard-House, and
not stir from thence till I had fully satisfy'd him who and what I was.
Then I happen'd to hit upon an Expedient which prov'd a lucky one; I told
him, That I was very willing to remain in Custody till I had receiv'd an
Answer from the Landlady of the Inn where my Master dy'd, who would make
good what I had affirm'd. Upon this he order'd Paper to be given me; and I
wrote in short to my Landlady at _Paris_, by the Name of a _Valet de
Chambre_, whom I left there when I came away. As she was a Woman of quick
Apprehension, and knew my Hand-Writing, I persuaded myself that she would
easily comprehend the Meaning of it. When my Letter was finish'd, I shew'd
it to the King's Lieutenant, who read it, and told me, That he would
undertake both for its Delivery, and an Answer to it. In the mean Time he
remanded me back to my Inn, and in Two Hours after, sent to tell me, that
I might pursue my Journey. You will naturally imagine, that I took him at
the first Word. I accordingly walk'd out of _Toul_ on Foot, but I hir'd a
Horse at a Village belonging to the Principality of _Elboeuf_, and went to
_Nancy_, where I had the Precaution to provide myself with a Passport,
which the Innkeeper, where I lay, procur'd me, by the Name of a certain
Merchant of that City. I did not think fit to go to _Strasbourg_, where
perhaps I might have been known; but went to _Haguenau_; from thence to
_Fort Louis_, where I pass'd the _Rhine_; and at last arriv'd at
_Heidelberg_ in the Beginning of the Year 1719.
* * * * *
The Palatine Court resided at _Heidelberg_[2], but 'twas not the same
Elector that I had the Honour to mention to you before, for he was dead,
and was succeeded by his Brother Prince _Charles_, who kept a numerous and
magnificent Court, and was the Darling of all his Family. He was so good
to his Domestics, that there are few such to be found among Princes; and
yet without debasing his Rank, of which he understood every Part of its
Dignity, and perfectly knew how to have the Respect paid that was due to
him: Being withal generous, good-natur'd, affable and charitable; he lov'd
People should speak to him with Freedom. He was very regular in his
Conduct, even to a Degree of Devotion, yet in no respect an Enemy to
Pleasures; on the contrary, he often procured them for his Court; and he
was especially fond of Dancing, which he perform'd indeed too well for a
Prince.
The Elector has had Two Wives, but he has had only one Child, a Daughter,
marry'd to the Hereditary Prince of _Sultzbach_, who is the Elector's
presumptive Heir. She is a very lovely Princess, tho' somewhat pitted with
the Small Pox; she is not tall, but perfectly well-shap'd; she is complete
Mistress of every Thing which young Princesses are usually taught; she
dances and sings with a very good Grace, and especially the _Italian_
Airs, which she plays at the same time to Perfection upon the Harpsichord.
The Prince her Husband was a clever handsome Man, and his Outside was a
sufficient Indication of his Endowments: He had so grave an Air, that one
would be apt to suspect him of a little Austerity, yet this did not render
him a whit the less polite; and, above all Things, he was very civil to
Foreigners. He shew'd an extraordinary Respect to the Elector, who, on his
Part, gave him all the possible Marks of a Tenderness for him. This young
Prince had a Son by this Marriage, who dwelt at _Neubourg_, where he had
been brought up; it being apprehended that the Fatigues of Travelling
would be hurtful to his Health, but, notwithstanding this Precaution, the
young Prince dy'd in 1724.
The Elector was a very early Riser; as soon as he was up, he spent some
Time in Prayer; then the Great Chamberlain or Grand Master of the Wardrobe
talk'd to him about Affairs of State, or such as were Domestic; when those
Gentlemen were retir'd, the Prince employed himself in reading Dispatches,
or in Writing; after which he dress'd himself: About 11 o'Clock he went
to Mass, accompany'd by the Prince his Son-in-Law, and the Princess his
Daughter: When he held a Council there, 'twas after Mass was over: Upon
other Days he play'd at Billiards till Dinner-time, which held a long
while, and sometimes a little too much was drank at it; which indeed they
could not well help, the Wine there was so delicious. After Dinner was
over, his Electoral Highness went with the Princess his Daughter to her
Apartment, where he stay'd a little while, and then retir'd to his own,
where he caus'd himself to be undress'd, and went to Bed for a few Hours.
About 5 or 6 o'Clock in the Evening he was dress'd, after which he gave
public Audiences, or else apply'd himself to something in his Study. At 7
o'Clock he went into the Assembly Room, where he found the Princess and
the whole Court; and after having chatted some Time, he sate down to
Picquet, or to a Pair of Tables; but when the Game was over, he retired,
and the Princess went to Supper.
In the Afternoon, when the Elector was withdrawn, the Princess went into
her Lady of Honour's Apartment, where there was always a great Assembly,
and often a Concert, in which the Princess sung some _Italian_ Song or
other, together with _Signora Claudia_, one of her Waiting-Women. This
little Concert was made up also of some Musicians selected out of the
Elector's Band, and is one of the completest that I ever heard. The Prince
of _Sultzbach_ assisted at it sometimes; but he most commonly retir'd to
his Apartment at the same Time that the Elector did to his.
As these Two Princes shew'd me great Marks of their Goodness, the
Courtiers too, in Imitation of their Masters, were mighty civil to me: I
was invited to the best Houses, and treated every Day with grand Feasts,
and fresh Parties of Pleasure; and in a Word I pass'd the little Time I
stay'd at _Heidelberg_ very pleasantly. I was so charm'd with that Court,
that I had a great Mind to put in for some Employment there; and for that
end I engag'd some Persons, who I thought could do me most Service; but
notwithstanding the Courtiers seem'd so fond of me, I found a Cabal in my
Way, which was powerful enough to hinder me from obtaining my Wish. These
were, to my Misfortune, Persons of very good Credit, who did not care to
see any body in Place, but such, as they knew, would truckle to them. The
Great Chamberlain, to whom I plainly saw I was not acceptable, was one of
those who made the greatest Opposition to my Advancement. 'Tis true, that
I drew his Resentment upon me by my own Rashness and Folly: For one Day,
as I was attending the Elector from the Princess's Apartment to his own, I
went into a Room which, according to the Custom of the Court, no body was
permitted to enter, except the Great Chamberlain; but this was more than I
then knew, and therefore I went boldly into the Room, when a Harbinger of
the Court came, and, with a very impertinent Air, bad me _turn out_----I
ask'd him, Whether he had his Order for saying so from the Elector? He
said, No; but from the Great Chamberlain: I then made him an Answer in a
Style that surpriz'd him, and bad him tell the Grand Chamberlain something
that I knew he would not be pleas'd with: At the same time I talk'd both
against the Chamberlain and his Emissary in such a manner as gave Vent to
my Spleen, but excluded me from the Service of one of the best Princes in
the World. I took Leave afterwards of the Elector, who bad me Farewel,
made me a considerable Present, and moreover gave me Letters of
Recommendation to _Vienna_, where I intended to solicit some Employment.
I shall now give you a brief Account of the City and Castle of
_Heidelberg_: The City stands on the Banks of the _Neckar_, with high
Mountains on each Side, and only a narrow Passage between them, from which
however there's a Prospect of the noblest Plain in _Germany_. In this City
there was formerly a famous University, founded by _Rupert the Ruddy_,
Count Palatine and Duke of _Bavaria_ in 1346. Here was to be seen one of
the finest Libraries in _Europe_, but General _Tilly_ carry'd it off in
1622, and sent it to _Rome_, where it makes a considerable Part of the
_Vatican_ Library. _Lewis_ the Dauphin of _France_, Grandfather of _Lewis_
XV. made himself Master of _Heidelberg_ by a Capitulation in 1698.
nevertheless, all manner of Disorders were committed in it; a Part of the
Electoral Palace was blown up, the City was burnt, and the very Corpses of
the Electors, which were in the Coffins with the Ornaments of their
Dignity, were dragg'd out of their Graves into the Square: And the
_French_ would undoubtedly have committed greater Cruelties, if the Army
of the Empire had not advanc'd towards _Heidelberg_, of which the
_Germans_ made themselves Masters; and the Governor was prosecuted for
Treachery, and sentenc'd to have his Choice, Whether to die by the Sword,
or to have his Coat of Arms defac'd, his Sword broke, to be kick'd by the
Hangman, and turn'd out of the Army with his Life: But he was so
mean-spirited, as to prefer Infamy to Death, and retir'd to _Hildesheim_,
where he has the Misfortune to be still living.
Some Time after this, the Marshal _de Lorge_ attack'd _Heidelberg_, but he
could not master it, tho' the Place was defenceless. A Song was made upon
him, the Burden of which was, _He would have taken_ Heidelberg, _if he had
found the Door open_. There's no Sign now that _Heidelberg_ was ever
ruin'd; 'tis well rebuilt; and if the present Elector had continued his
Residence in it, would have been one of the finest Towns in _Germany_; but
'twas owing to the Protestants, that the Elector remov'd to _Manheim_.
What gave Occasion to it was this: The Protestants of _Heidelberg_ and the
Catholics have one Church between them, where the Nave of it belongs to
the Protestants, and the Choir to the Catholics. When the present Elector
had fix'd his Residence at _Heidelberg_, he desir'd that this Church, in
which the Electors are interr'd, might be intirely Catholic; and for this
end he made a Proposal to the Protestants, to give up the Nave, and
engag'd that another Church should be built for them. The Inhabitants were
very willing to consent to it, but the Ministers oppos'd it, and
represented to the Citizens, that 'twas of dangerous Consequence to resign
that Church, which was included in the Treaty of _Westphalia_, and in all
the Treaties that had been made with the Princes of _Neubourgh_, on their
Accession to the Electorate; that, after such a Resignation was once made,
they could no longer expect the Protection of the Powers of their own
Communion; and finally, that even the new Church, which was promis'd to be
built for them, might with very great Ease be taken from them. The Elector
having declar'd that he would be obey'd, the Ministers apply'd to the
Protestant Body at the Dyet of the Empire. The Affair made a great Noise;
and the Elector threatened the Inhabitants to abandon them; but they did
not seem to be much concern'd at it, because they imagin'd, that if the
Court went, the Regency and the Courts of Justice would remain with them,
as they did in the Time of the late Elector. Nevertheless they were out in
their Calculation, and the Elector, justly incens'd at the Disrespect of
his Subjects, abandon'd them, and transfer'd his Court and all the
Tribunals to _Manheim_; so that the Citizens, whose sole Dependance was on
the Court, or the Officers of those Tribunals, are now very poor. They
were quickly sensible of the Error they had committed, and went and threw
themselves at the Elector's Feet; but the Prince gave no Ear to them, and
has caus'd the City and Castle of _Manheim_ to be rebuilt.
The Castle of _Heidelberg_ to this Day shews the Marks of the Disorder
committed there by the _French_; for there's a great Part of it in Ruins;
and out of Four considerable Mansions, of which it consisted, there was
only one that was not damag'd. That which remains of the Palace is in a
Stile of Architecture, which I should be at a Loss to explain; 'tis
neither Gothic nor Modern, but a _Rhapsody_ of all the Orders heap'd one
upon another, without Fancy or Judgment; as if the Architect who conducted
the Work, had only design'd a Building of great Expence, without troubling
himself whether it was done well or ill. This Palace stands upon a very
high Hill, with a magnificent Terrass towards the Town, from whence
there's a Prospect of the Plain and of the Country too for several
Leagues. The Inside of the Palace is scarce more regular than the
Outside. The Elector's Apartment consists of a long Suite of Rooms,
without Beauty or Proportion. Nor is there any thing agreeable in the
whole but its Situation, which is owing to the Prospect that it commands.
The other Apartments are very small, and of pretty difficult Access,
because of a great many little Steps that lead up and down to them.
In the Vaults of this Palace there's the Tun, so famous for its enormous
Size; 'tis said to contain 26,250 Gallons _Paris_ Measure. The Electors
have had frequent Carousals on the Platform which is over it. I own to
you, that I can't comprehend what Pleasure there can be in Tippling-Bouts
of this Kind, at a Place where one cannot be at Ease; since a Man need not
be very tall, for his Head to touch the Roof of the Vault, which besides
is very dark.
As I was preparing to set out for _Vienna_ where I intended, as I said, to
sollicit Employment, I receiv'd a Letter from _Paris_, with Advice that
the Storm I so much dreaded was dispers'd, and that all my Fears were ill
grounded, the Regent having no manner of Suspicion of me, but on the
contrary, more inclin'd than ever to shew me the Effects of his
Protection; thereupon I was earnestly exhorted to return to _Paris_, which
Advice coming from a good Hand, I made no Scruple to comply with it.
* * * * *
At my Arrival there I went to the Royal Palace as before: The Regent gave
me a very good Reception, and _Madame_ made me so welcome, that it
confirm'd my Hopes, that I should at length obtain something at the Court
of _France_. I found People very much divided about the War which had been
just declar'd against _Spain_: The _French_ were indeed for a War, but
they were sorry to make it against a Prince who was born among them, and
for whose Establishment they had expended so many Millions, and so much
Blood. The Regent was even at a Loss to find any one to command the Army,
because several had excus'd themselves. Only the Marshal _de Berwic_, the
Natural Son of _James_ II. King of _England_, prefer'd the Service of the
Regency to the old Obligations he had to the King of _Spain_. His Catholic
Majesty, whose Forces this Duke had commanded, had heap'd Favours upon
him; he had not only made him and his Son Grandees of _Spain_, but had
moreover granted to both of 'em the Golden Fleece, and the Duchy of
_Liria_ for his Son and his Posterity. Nevertheless, he accepted of the
Command with Pleasure, and set out for _Spain_.
The Regent having engag'd the Prince of _Conti_ to take upon him the
Command of the Cavalry, order'd him 100,000 Crowns for his Equipage, and
granted him 60,000 Livres a Month to keep an open Table; besides which,
his Horses were to be kept at the King's Expence. When his Royal Highness
had appointed these Two Generals, he was not very much at a Loss for
subaltern Officers: To encourage them to serve with the more Zeal, there
was a great Promotion, consisting of 6 Lieutenant-Generals, 72
Major-Generals, and 196 Brigadiers. The Regent also gave Pensions to above
Threescore Officers, who repair'd to the Marshal _de Berwic_ in _Navarre_,
where the Campaign was open'd by the Siege of _Fontarabia_. At the same
Time the Regent caus'd a Manifesto to be publish'd, which was couch'd in
Terms full of Regard to the King of _Spain_, Cardinal _Alberoni_ being
reproach'd for every Thing that was blameworthy in that Prince's Conduct;
and accus'd of being the Author of the War between the Two Crowns, and of
having hinder'd the King his Master from accepting the Treaty of the
Quadruple Alliance, a Treaty which had not been concluded, said the
Regent, but for the Welfare of _Europe_, and particularly of _France_ and
_Spain_. His Royal Highness protested, that the War was only made to
induce the King of _Spain_ to a Peace; and affirm'd, That _France_ did not
mean to make any Conquest upon his Dominions; and that if she was
compell'd to do it, she should be always ready to restore such Conquests
at the Peace.
Cardinal _Alberoni_ dispers'd several Pieces in the Name of his Master, by
which he invited the _French_ Soldiers to take the Part of his Catholic
Majesty; and to succeed the better in this Design, he engag'd the King of
_Spain_ to head his Army, hoping, that upon his very first Appearance, one
Half of the Army of _France_ would desert to his Standard. The Cardinal
being full of Notions so chimerical and so injurious to Officers and
Troops, as incapable of Cowardice as of Treachery; he oblig'd the
_Chevalier de S----_ who had been a Colonel in _France_, but by
Misfortunes was forc'd to go to _Spain_, to write to some of the chief
Commanders, and solicit them to come over with their Regiments to the
_Spanish_ Service. The _Chevalier_, who built Hopes of a considerable
Fortune upon the Success of this Project, wrote to the Lieutenant-Colonel
of _Normandy_, and sent the Letter to him by an Officer, who was indeed a
Gentleman, but at that Time committed an Action unworthy of that
Character. This Officer came to the _French_ Army, and gave the Letter to
the Person it was directed to, who carrying it to the Marshal _de
Berwic_, he caus'd the unfortunate Courier to be arrested, and hang'd up
in Two Hours after. The Cardinal was very much mortify'd by having
miscarry'd in this Attempt, not considering that the same was
impracticable, by reason the Fidelity of the _French Officers_ was never
to be corrupted; but it was not so at that Time with the _Soldiers_, of
whom a great Number deserted to the _Spanish_ Army. Persons of Credit, who
at that Time saw Cardinal _Alberoni_ in private, assur'd me, that Minister
was so fully persuaded that whole Regiments at a Time would come over to
the _Spanish_ Service; that when he was told 50 or 100 Deserters, more or
less, were newly come; _What signifies that_, said he? _His Majesty wants
to see Colours and Standards arrive, and not a Handful of Men._ The
Cardinal had a great many Fortune-hunters about him, who were continually
telling him, that intire Battalions were just coming over; and by the
Favour of such Predictions, which never came to any Thing, they got out of
him what they wanted, for no other Consideration but a sorry improbable
Scheme, and which tended even sometimes to deceive the Minister and betray
him. One may guess at the Character of those Gentlemen by one _F----_, who
had been a Reformado-Colonel in _France_, but being press'd hard by
merciless Creditors, could find no other Means to escape from their ill
Humour, than by taking Shelter under Cardinal _Alberoni_. This _F----_ was
a terrible Rattle, and could rodomontade better than any body. The
Minister made him a Brigadier, and withal gave him a Gratuity of 100
Pistoles; but our Spark not thinking this sufficient, wanted forsooth to
be a Major-General, and teiz'd the Cardinal for it to such a Degree, that
to get rid of such an importunate Solicitor, his Eminency was oblig'd to
promise him, that it should not be long before he should be prefer'd. My
Gentleman had no Time to wait, and renew'd his Solicitations; but being
put off, he was quite out of Patience, and at last declar'd, that he would
serve no longer if he was not made a Major-General. His Eminence grew
angry, so that _F----_ thought it was proper to submit, or at least to
assume a submissive Air. Mean while he study'd Revenge, and imagin'd the
only way to make his Fortune in _France_ would be, to seize the Cardinal,
and run away with him to the Regent. The Thing that remain'd to be
consider'd was, what Methods he should take to succeed; and 'tis even
said, that he had laid his Plot so well, that had it not been for the
Treachery of one of the Conspirators who discover'd the whole Mystery, the
same would have succeeded. The Cardinal caus'd _F----_ to be arrested, and
sent Prisoner to _Pampeluna_, and from thence to the Castle of _Segovia_,
where he was try'd, and would infallibly have been beheaded, but Cardinal
_Alberoni_ happen'd to be disgrac'd at the same Time, as I shall have the
Honour to tell you anon.
While these Trifles pass'd in the _Spanish_ Army, the _French_ went on
furiously to Action. _Fontarabia_ was closely besieg'd, upon which the
King and Queen made as if they would relieve it; but while they were
consulting about it, the Marshal _de Berwic_ oblig'd it to capitulate.
This Conquest, tho' to the Advantage of _France_, did not abate one Jot of
that Aversion which the _French_ had to the War. The People contributed to
it not without Reluctance; nevertheless it was the Regent's Interest to
continue it; and as he perceiv'd they were already so over-burden'd with
Taxes, that 'twas in vain to think of creating new ones, he contriv'd new
Methods to fill the Treasury. He obtain'd an Arret of Council for making a
considerable Number of Bank Bills, those which had been made before having
been soon snatch'd up. Then the Council pass'd another Arret, for
diminishing the Value of the Species. The Bustle this Arret occasion'd at
_Paris_ is not to be imagin'd; every body was glad to part with their
Cash, upon which they apprehended there would be a Loss, and they hurry'd
to receive Paper in Exchange, upon the Promise which the Council had made,
that the Value of the Bills should be fix'd, so as never to rise nor fall.
Nevertheless, it was not long before the People seriously reflected upon
the Invalidity of the Matter, into which their Gold and Silver was
transform'd, and the Hurry to the Bank abated. But the Regent soon
contriv'd a way to bring in the little Cash that remain'd in private
Hands; for he caus'd an Arret of Council to pass, which forbad any one's
having more than 500 Livres about him, upon the Penalty of a great Fine.
In Pursuance of this Arret, People began again to change their Species for
Bank Bills, which were in Truth more commodious than Cash, because People
might then carry the Value of several Millions about them, without
sweating under the Load. This was a rare way to thrive, when a Man carry'd
his whole Estate thus in his Pocket!
By this Means did the Duke Regent provide for the immense Charges of the
War with _Spain_, which was carry'd on with Vigour; and soon after the
taking of _Fontarabia_, the _French_ Army laid Siege to _St. Sebastian_,
which held but Twenty-five Days, when both the Town and Castle
surrender'd.
As long as the War continued with Success in _Spain_ I never left
soliciting at the Royal Palace, but always in vain. I spent most of my
Time in the Regent's Antichamber, and now-and-then went for Recreation to
the House of _Madame de R----_, whom I have not had the Honour of
mentioning to you for a good while, but my Passion was now grown cool, so
that all those Visits were but a melancholy Relief in the Situation that I
then stood in. My Friends made me reflect seriously on the small Hopes I
ought to entertain of succeeding at the Court of _France_. The _Abbe de
Asfeld_ perceiving the Anxiety I was under, took the Advantage of it to
drive me, as I may term it, from a Place where I lost my Time, and spent
the little Money I had to no Purpose; therefore I left _Paris_ once more,
and travelled by the Way of _Metz_, to avoid the troublesome Questions of
the King's Lieutenant at _Toul_.
* * * * *
I pass'd thro' St. MENEHOULT, which is a Town in _Champagne_, built in a
Morass, between Two Eminencies. A little after I was there, it had the
Misfortune to be burnt. I was told, that the Jews of _Metz_ offer'd to
rebuild it intirely, on condition they might be permitted to have a
Synagogue there.
* * * * *
From _St. Menehoult_ I went to VERDUN, an Episcopal City, whose Bishops
take the Titles of Counts of _Verdun_, and Princes of the Holy Empire.
This Diocese makes Part of the Three Bishopricks yielded to _France_ by
_Lorrain_. The Cathedral is dedicated to our Lady. In this Church there's
a Well, which is preserv'd there for a Supply of Water in case of Fire,
because the Place being on a very high Ground, it would be difficult to
bring Water to it.
* * * * *
From _Verdun_ I went to METZ, where I made some Stay. This is a very large
Town, at the Conflux of the _Moselle_ and the _Seille_. It was heretofore
the Capital of _Austrasia_, and afterwards reckon'd as an imperial City
till 1552, that the Constable of _Montmorency_ made a Conquest of it for
_Henry_ II. King of _France_. The Emperor _Charles_ V. try'd in vain to
retake it, when the Duke of _Guise_, who commanded in the Place, acquir'd
great Reputation in the Defence of it, and oblig'd him to raise the Siege,
at which the Emperor was so mortify'd, that he resign'd his Dominions, and
retir'd to a Cloyster. _Metz_, _Toul_ and _Verdun_ were confirm'd to
_France_ in 1559, by the Treaty of _Chateau-Cambresis_, and this Cession
was afterwards confirm'd by the Peace of _Munster_ in 1648.
The Cathedral of _Metz_, which is dedicated to St. _Stephen_, is a Church
of greater Note for its Antiquity than for its Beauty. The most remarkable
Thing in it is its baptismal Font, which is of one intire Piece of
_Porphyry_ about 10 Foot in Length.
There is very good Company at _Metz_, and I should have been glad to have
stay'd there longer, if my private Affairs would have permitted it. There
is a Parliament, which consists of a good Number of Men of Quality, who
are all very rich. Besides, here is always a strong Garison, and several
Persons of easy Fortunes, who commonly spend the Winter here. When I was
here, _M. de Saillant_ was the commanding Officer. He liv'd with
Splendor, and I commonly din'd with him, and supp'd with the Intendant of
the Province, who was then _M. de Celi_ of the _Harlay_ Family, and was
very much esteem'd.
* * * * *
When I set out from _Metz_, I struck into the Road for _Germany_, and went
to SPIRES. This Town may be consider'd as a Monument of the Ravage of War,
there being a great many Ruins to be seen in it, which are the Remains of
the Houses burnt by the _French_, in the War they made for the Destruction
of the Palatinate. It was formerly the Seat of the Imperial Chamber, which
after 'twas ruin'd, was transfer'd to _Wetzlar_. _Spires_ is the See of a
Bishop Suffragan to the Bishop of _Mentz_.
* * * * *
I pass'd the _Rhine_ at _Spires_, over a Bridge of Boats, and arrived in a
few Hours at _Heidelberg_, from whence I went to _Stutgard_, and so to
ULM.[3] This is one of the most considerable Cities in _Germany_, and has
magnificent Structures both sacred and prophane, and great Squares adorn'd
with Fountains. Our Lady's, which is the most considerable of all the
Churches, belongs to the Lutherans, who are the Magistrates of the City;
but the Roman Catholics are allow'd the free Exercise of their Religion
here. This City was formerly but a Village, which _Charlemain_ granted to
the Abbey of _Reichenau_. The Inhabitants of _Ulm_ redeem'd their Liberty
on the Payment of a considerable Sum, after which they got their Town made
an Imperial City, and at last it became the Capital of _Swabia_.
_Ulm_ is very well fortify'd; it maintains a stout Garison, and its
Ramparts are furnish'd with good Cannon; nevertheless, the Elector of
_Bavaria_ took it with Ease in the Beginning of the late War, when that
Prince declar'd for his Nephew the King of _Spain_, tho' 'tis said, his
Electoral Highness had a Correspondence at the same time in the Town. But
the Battle of _Hochstet_ help'd to restore it to its Liberty, and
notwithstanding the Menaces of the _Marshal de Villars_, it receiv'd an
Imperial Garison.
* * * * *
From _Ulm_ I went to AUGSBOURG[4], a very ancient City, where a _Roman_
Colony was planted by the Emperor _Augustus_, from whom it had the Latin
Name _Augusta_. It has from time to time undergone several Revolutions: In
1518 _Luther_ came hither to give a public Account of his Doctrine; and in
1530, _Charles_ V. summon'd the Dyet of the Empire hither, which Dyet was
famous for the noted _Confession_ of _Augsbourg_, that the Protestants
presented to the Emperor. In another Dyet held in 1548, the same _Charles_
V. propos'd that Formulary call'd the _Interim_, with regard to the
Communion in both Kinds, and the Marriage of Priests: This Formulary has
done irreparable Injury to the Catholic Religion.
_Augsbourg_ had a very great Share in the Civil Wars between our
Ancestors, on account of Religion. During that Period, the Protestants
seiz'd the City, and turn'd out the Bishop and Clergy; but _Charles_ V.
having retaken it, re-establish'd the _Romish_ Religion in it, and alter'd
the whole Government, which continued in that State till the Beginning of
_April_ 1552, when the Protestants took it again, and restor'd what the
Emperor had destroy'd; and at length a Peace was concluded at _Augsbourg_;
but the City did not long enjoy the Sweets of it, and Violences were soon
committed on both Sides. The famous _Gustavus Adolphus_, King of _Sweden_,
came to the Aid of the Protestants. He arriv'd at _Augsbourg_ in 1632. The
Inhabitants paid him extraordinary Honours, which was very provoking to
the Catholic Princes, and to the Duke of _Bavaria_, who Two Years after
punish'd them for it. This Prince having declared himself the Protector of
the ancient Religion, besieg'd _Augsbourg_, and reduc'd the Citizens to
such Extremity, that they eat Rats, Cats, and even human Flesh. It was
settled at the Peace of _Westphalia_, that the Catholics and Lutherans
should tolerate one another, which was afterwards punctually observ'd.
Nevertheless, this City was again molested by the Elector of _Bavaria_ in
the last War, when he made himself Master of it, but his Troops abandon'd
it immediately after the Battle of _Hochstet_. After the Peace of
_Westphalia_, the Emperor _Leopold_ summon'd the Dyet of the Empire to
_Augsbourg_ in 1690, and there he caus'd himself to be crown'd, and his
Son _Joseph_ to be elected King of the _Romans_.
The assembling of the Dyets, and the flourishing Trade at _Augsbourg_,
have render'd it one of the most magnificent Cities in _Germany_. Its
Squares are large, its Streets spacious, and its Fountains very beautiful.
The Town-House is one of the finest Buildings that I have seen. 'Tis a
vast square Edifice, well built of Free-Stone. The Porch is all of Marble.
Almost all the Rooms are wainscotted and ceil'd with very fine Timber.
There's a Hall 110 Feet long, 58 broad, and 52 Feet in Height, the
Pavement of which is Marble, and its Walls adorn'd with Paintings,
intermix'd with Emblems and Devices relating to the Government. The
Ceiling, which exceeds all the rest for its Beauty, has Compartments, the
Squares and Pannels whereof are inrich'd with Sculptures, very finely
gilt, and full of beautiful Pictures and other Ornaments. The Cathedral is
large and spacious, with a most remarkable great Gate, all of Brass, over
which there are several Scripture Passages, represented in _Basso-Relievo_
of very nice Workmanship. The Episcopal Palace has nothing extraordinary.
The present Bishop is of the Family of _Newbourg_, and Brother to the
Elector of _Triers_, and the Elector Palatine. The Dignity of Prince of
the Empire is annex'd to that of Bishop of _Augsbourg_, in the same manner
as it is to all the Bishopricks of _Germany_. He is chose by the Chapter,
which is compos'd of Canons, who are noble by Sixteen Descents. The
Bishop's Sovereignty extends over almost all the Territory of _Augsbourg_.
* * * * *
I am now going to give you an Account of one of the most splendid Courts
in all _Germany_, I mean that of _Bavaria_, which I had the Honour to see
at MUNICH, whither I went at my Departure from _Augsbourg_.[5]_Munich_,
which is the Capital of _Bavaria_, stands upon the River _Iser_, that
falls into the _Danube_, for which Reason the Neighbourhood is almost all
Meadow Land. The Town is not large, but very well built, so that I have
scarce seen any that makes so gay an Appearance. _Munich_ contains several
stately Buildings, both sacred and profane. Among the former, the Two
finest, that I took Notice of, are, our Lady's Church, and that of the
Jesuits.
In our Lady's Church there's a magnificent Tomb of the Emperor _Lewis_ IV.
adorn'd with Figures of Marble and Brass. There's one Thing remarkable in
this Church, and that is, at the Entrance of the great Gate there's a
particular Place, from whence, as one stands, we observe such a Regularity
in the Disposition of the Pillars which support the Roof, that there is
not a Window to be perceiv'd in it, tho' there are a great many.
The Jesuits Church is also extremely magnificent. It consists intirely of
one Nave, very lofty and spacious, the Roof of which is very noble, and
adorn'd all over with Sculpture. The Vestry contains a great deal of
Wealth in Relics, and in Vessels of Gold and Silver.
Their College is as magnificent as their Church, there can be nothing
finer; and I could not help thinking the Outside of it exceeded the
Electoral Palace. In the Inside there are great Rooms, which serve as
Classes for the Scholars that come to study with them.
The Elector's Palace deserves a diligent View, for it may compare with the
Palaces of the most powerful Sovereigns; and I think that, excepting the
Palace of the _Tuileries_, there's none so big. Yet for all this it has
one Defect, common to the Palaces of all Sovereigns, it having been built
at several Times, and being by Consequence irregular. The first Time I saw
it, I own to you that I was disgusted at this Irregularity; and that it
fell vastly short of the Idea I had conceiv'd of the Building from what I
had read of it in the Relations publish'd by Travellers.
Of all the Parts of the Electoral Palace, there's not one that is more
magnificent than that which is commonly call'd the _Emperor's Apartment_:
The principal Room in it is a Hall, which is 118 Feet long, and 52 broad,
and may be reckon'd a complete Piece of Work; 'tis adorn'd with fine
Paintings, representing sacred and profane History, which are rang'd in
exact Order, one over-against the other; and under each of the historical
Passages there are _Latin_ Verses explaining the Subject: The
Chimney-piece is as magnificent as the rest of the Apartment; on the Top
of it there's the Statue of _Porphyry_, of admirable Workmanship,
representing _Virtue_, holding a Spear in her Right Hand, and a Branch of
gilt Palm in her Left. The Ceiling is adorn'd with gilt Compartments, and
with Paintings of a noble Design.
Going out of the great Hall, we pass thro' a very spacious Antichamber
into the Hall of Audience, which is very much ornamented, as is all the
rest. 'Tis there that the Electors give Audience to the foreign Ministers,
and there are Eight great Compartments, shewing the different manners
after which the foreign Princes give Audience to Ambassadors. There are
other Pictures representing the Histories of several Judgments pass'd by
Sovereigns, that have administer'd Justice in Person; and these Pictures
are accompany'd with Hieroglyphics, Emblems and Devices suitable to the
Subject.
The long Gallery is very magnificent, both for its Extent and for the
Pieces it contains. 'Tis adorn'd with _Basso Relievo's_ of a noble Design,
and with costly Pictures, among which are the Effigies and Names of 36
Princes, the Predecessors of the present Elector. There are also very fine
Maps of the several Provinces, Cities and Appendages of his Electoral
Highness's Dominions. There's another Gallery not quite so big indeed, but
as finely adorn'd, and especially with very large Pictures, which
represent the Histories of the Princes and Princesses of the Family of
_Bavaria_. The Stair-case which leads to the grand Apartment I just now
mention'd, is answerable to all the rest in Magnificence, there being
nothing to be seen all about it but marble and Gold.
The Apartment which the Elector commonly resides in is very spacious, but
irregular. I thought the Chambers and Closets a little too dark. The whole
is adorn'd with rich Ceilings and magnificent Tapestries. The Electoress's
Apartment communicates with the Elector's by a private Gallery. All the
Princes and Princesses are equally well lodg'd, tho' the Chambers of the
Apartments are a little too small.
The great Chapel is very fine, and would be much more so, if it was more
lightsome. The Electoress has one, which joins to her Apartment, but is
not near so large as the former, and has the same Fault; tho' otherwise
'tis a notable Piece of Building, and contains extraordinary Wealth.
The Garden of the Electoral Palace is not of the modern Taste. Round the
one half of it there's a grand Piazza, adorn'd with Pictures, representing
the several Histories of the Princes of the _Bavarian_ Family, which
Pictures, I am told, were the Model for the Hangings in the Elector's
Wardrobe. At the End of this Piazza there's a very fine House, the lower
Parts of which serve as a Greenhouse for the Orange Trees. In the upper
Part there are very commodious Apartments; where, in the Summertime, the
Elector has a Drawing-Room. Near this Orangery there's a Sort of Menagery,
in which are kept Lyons and other wild Beasts.
The same Piazza leads also to the Riding-House, which is one of the finest
I ever saw. 'Tis 366 Feet in Length, and 76 in Breadth. It has 80 great
Windows, and all round within there runs a fine Corridor or Gallery to
hold the Spectators, when there are any Carrousels or Tournaments. This
Corridor is parted by the Elector's Box, which is big enough to contain
all the Electoral Family, and adorn'd with very rich Sculptures. The
Gallery of the Palace, which reaches to the grand Piazza of the Garden,
leads also to the Opera Room, which is very large, and very high. The
Stage is answerable to the Grandeur and Magnificence of the Room, and the
Decorations are superb, and very numerous. As the Electoral Prince is very
fond of Music, he prefers the Opera to any other Performance, and gives
Orders himself for what may serve to render it most splendid. You will
judge that no Cost is spar'd, the Decorations, Machines, Habits and every
Thing being equally noble, and well contriv'd.
Upon the Days that any Feast is celebrated at Court, as Birth-days and the
like, when there's an Opera, at the Overture there descends from the Top
of the Stage a Lustre of extraordinary Grandeur and Structure, which rises
up again immediately after the first Act; a Custom, for which I never
could yet hear of any good Reason. This Lustre surprizes the more, because
it comes unexpected. The Ceiling opens to let it down, as well as to take
it up again.
'Tis said, that when the Great _Gustavus Adolphus_, King of _Sweden_, made
his victorious Entry at _Munich_, one of that great Monarch's Generals
advis'd him to burn the Palace of the Electors, but he refus'd to do it,
in which he was Greater than the Great _Alexander_, who reduc'd the
superb Palace of _Darius_ to a Heap of Ashes. The only Thing that made the
_Swedish_ Monarch uneasy was, that he could not carry to _Sweden_ the fine
Chimney-piece in the great Hall, that I mention'd to you.
I will next treat of the Princes that compose the August Family of
_Bavaria_, which is one of the most Illustrious in _Europe_. The Elector's
Name was _Maximilian Emanuel Mary_: No Man could have a grander Air, or a
better Shape than this Prince had; and with those external Qualities, he
had others, without which the former are of little or no Value. He was
generous, affable, compassionate, and in Consequence ador'd by his
Subjects: He knew how to support his Dignity with Grandeur: His Expence
was great, but well-judg'd: He marry'd to his first Wife the Archduchess,
Daughter of the Emperor _Leopold_, by whom he had a Son, who was snatch'd
from him by Death, when the young Prince was become Heir to one of the
chief Crowns in the World, after the Death of _Charles_ II. King of
_Spain_, by Right of Succession from his Grandmother, who was the Daughter
of _Philip_ IV.
After the Death of the Electoress, the Elector marry'd a Princess of
_Poland_, _viz. Theresa Cunegonda Sobieski_, Daughter to King _John
Sobieski_. This Princess lives so retir'd, that, excepting her own Family,
she sees no body but Two or Three Ladies and her Confessor. She resides
most commonly at _Taco_, a Seat given her by the Elector. When the
Princess is at _Munich_, she employs herself in Works of Charity, one
while visiting sick Women, at other Times the several Convents; and in
these Visits she never fails to leave Marks of her Bounty.
The Elector has had several Children by her: The First is the Electoral
Prince, whose Name is _Albert Cajetan_: This Prince gave Proof in the War
in _Hungary_, and at the Siege of _Belgrade_, that he would be the Heir of
the great Qualities of the Elector his Father, as well as of his
Dominions: He acquir'd a high Reputation at _Vienna_, and every body was
charm'd with the grand Presence and Talents of this Prince, whose
Deportment to all that came to him could not be exceeded for Civility. He
talk'd _Latin_, _French_ and _Italian_ with as much Ease as his native
Language.
The Duke _Ferdinand_ is the Elector's Second Son, tho' he was first
marry'd to a Princess of _Neubourg_, a Niece of the Elector Palatine. This
Duke is the handsomest of the Elector's Sons; he is perfectly well-shap'd,
and has the finest Head of Hair that can be seen; in short, he is a very
amiable Prince: He loves Pleasure, but is not a Slave to it; his favourite
Sport is Hunting, which he follows commonly with the Princes his Brothers.
Duke _Clement_ is the Elector's Third Son, and he who has hitherto been
Fortune's greatest Favourite. When I went to _Munich_, this Prince had
been newly elected Bishop of _Munster_ and _Paderborn_, in the Room of the
Duke his Brother, who dy'd at _Rome_ a little after his Election to the
Bishoprick. Duke _Clement_ was already Bishop of _Ratisbon_, when he was
chose Bishop of _Munster_ and _Paderborn_; but he resign'd _Ratisbon_ to
Duke _Theodore_, the last of the _Bavarian_ Princes. These Four Princes,
and a Princess, who turn'd Nun at the Time that I was at _Munich_, are the
Elector's whole Family, and the only Princes of the House of _Bavaria_.
You know, _Madame_, that the Electoral Dignity pass'd to this Family after
the Disgrace of _Frederic_ Elector Palatine, King of _Bohemia_, who having
been put under the Ban of the Empire, was turn'd out of the _Upper
Palatinate_, which was given to the _Bavarian_ Family, as a Reward for the
Attachment they had shewn to the House of _Austria_, and for the Expences
they were at in the War. At the Treaty of _Westphalia_ this Grant was
confirm'd to the _Bavarian_ Family, and the Son of the unfortunate
_Frederic_ recover'd his Dignity of Elector, with this Difference, that
whereas before he was the first Elector, he was now become the last. The
Dukes of _Bavaria_ remain'd in Possession of the _Upper Palatinate_, and
of the Dignity of first Elector. There's none of 'em all that came up to
the Elector _Maximilian Emanuel_, and never was the Court of _Munich_ so
splendid and numerous, as in his Time: The Ceremonial observ'd there is
very much the same with that of the Imperial Court.
As to the Amusements of the Court of _Bavaria_, they pass'd their Time
much after this manner: The Elector, who was an early Riser, went to Mass
about 10 o'Clock, and afterwards held a Council, if it happen'd to be
Council-Day, or otherwise his Electoral Highness play'd at Passage till
Dinner-time. Then he return'd to his own Apartment, where he din'd
privately, and during that Time, no body was admitted, except the Princes,
the Officers in Waiting, and the Chamberlains. The Princes also din'd by
themselves, tho' they often admitted Gentlemen to eat with them. The
Electoress, the Princess and the Duchess had also their separate Tables
serv'd by the Elector's Officers, which occasion'd an amazing Expence, as
did also the Hunting Equipages; for the Elector went one Way, the
Electoral Prince another, and Duke _Ferdinand_ another, so that there were
near 400 Horses running here and there every Day. When they return'd from
the Chace, the Princes went and pass'd the Evening with the Duchess, where
they found a great Assembly of Ladies; the Elector also went thither
sometimes, and play'd at Pharao, or some other Game. Towards Supper-time
he retired to his Apartment, where he supp'd with the Ladies. The Princes
went and supp'd with the Electoral Prince, and the Duchess supp'd at her
own House with the Gentlemen and Ladies.
On the Drawing-Room Days (which were Three Times a Week) Things were
order'd otherwise. The Ladies went to the Electoress's Apartment, or to
the Orangery, according to the Place where the Drawing-Room was appointed.
When it was kept at the Electoress's Apartment, the Ladies went thither in
the Court Dress, whereas at the Orangery they might appear in a Mantua.
The Elector and the Princes were also there: His Electoral Highness
convers'd awhile with the Ladies; after which they sat down to Play, and
every one chose what Game or Partner they lik'd best. When the Play was
over, the Company went into another Room, where there was a great Table
well serv'd, at which, after the Elector, the Princes and the Ladies had
taken their Places, if there was Room, they admitted Gentlemen to sit down
with them, either Foreigners, or even such as were in the Elector's
Service. At this Table no Rank was observ'd, and the very Princes sat down
where they could get Places.
When the Court was at _Nymphenbourg_, the Elector's Pleasure-house, the
Diversions were much the same as at the Orangery, except that they took
the Air more; and that the Ladies might enjoy this Pleasure to greater
Perfection, there was always a Number of Calashes, each drawn by a Pair of
Horses, which carry'd Two Ladies, and was drove by some Gentleman, while
One or Two others stood behind them. Those who prefer'd taking the Air by
Water, might easily be accommodated, there being for that Purpose upon the
Canal Gondolas and Gondoliers after the _Venetian_ manner, which were
always ready for Hire.
On _Sundays_, Holidays and Days of Rejoicing, the Elector din'd in public,
with the Princes and Princesses of his Family, during which the
Chamberlains waited, and at Night there was a Concert. The Ladies in their
Court Dress met in the Apartment of the Electoress or the Duchess, and
accompany'd those Princesses to the Opera, after which they return'd to
the same Apartment; where, till Supper-time, they play'd; upon those Days
the Ladies din'd with the Elector: Sometimes too, they carry'd Services
for Three or Four Persons, and laid them upon the Gaming Tables, which was
very convenient for those who were not willing to separate Company: After
Supper there was commonly a Ball.
During the Summer, the Elector never fail'd to repair every _Thursday_
Evening to the Orangery, to hold a Drawing-Room, after which he went and
lay at _Nymphenbourg_, from whence he return'd upon _Saturdays_, to hold
Councils on _Sundays_ in the Morning; and in the Afternoon he went to some
Pleasure-house.