The materials required for this elegant branch of needlework are neither
numerous nor expensive. TRACING CLOTH, LEATHER, or TOILE CIRÉE, various
BRAIDS and CORDS, LINEN THREAD and two or three sizes of needles,
scissors and thimble. TRACING CLOTH is required when ladies copy point
lace patterns, and is the most convenient mode of taking them, as the
design can be worked upon the tracing cloth, which, though transparent,
is very strong; the price is 1s. 6d. per yard. Fine LEATHER is the
material upon which bought patterns are usually traced, and is decidedly
more pleasant to work on than is any other material. In selecting
patterns ladies should choose those traced upon green leather in
preference to scarlet or buff, as green is better for the eyesight than
any other colour.
[Illustration: 425.--Point Lace Scissors.]
TOILE CIRÉE is only a substitute for leather, and is not as pleasant to
work upon in warm weather.
The needles employed are usually Messrs. Walker's needles, Nos. 9 and
10. The scissors should be small, sharp, and pointed, as in illustration
No. 425. An ivory thimble may be safely employed in this light work.
[Illustration: 426.--Linen Braid.]
[Illustration: 427.--Linen Braid.]
[Illustration: 428.--Linen Braid.]
[Illustration: 429.--Linen Braid.]
[Illustration: 430.--Linen Braid.]
[Illustration: 431.--Linen Braid.]
The BRAIDS are of various widths and kinds. None but pure linen braid
should be employed; those with machine-made edgings are eschewed by many
lace-workers, the plain, loose-woven linen braid of various widths and
qualities being alone acceptable to experienced hands.
But all ladies do not care to be at the trouble of edging the braid, and
will find Nos. 426, 428, 430, and 431 very useful. No. 429 is a plain
linen braid with a vandyked edge, which works out very prettily. No. 431
is an edged braid with open holes, in imitation of the point lace work
of the fifteenth century.
Point lace cords resemble the satin stitch embroidery in their close,
regular smoothness; the price is 1s. per hank, and they are of various
thicknesses, from the size of a coarse crochet thread up to that of a
thick piping cord. These cords are used to ornament the braid, and are
closely sewn on the braid, following its every outline, and serve as
_beading_ to the edging, being always sewn on the outer edge alone. The
finer kinds of this cord are used in place of braid where very light
work is needed, as in the point lace alphabet which forms the
frontispiece of this work. Directions for laying on the cord when
employed as braid are given on page 500. When used as a finish only, and
to impart the raised appearance of Venice and Spanish lace, it is fixed
on the braid by plain, close sewing. The thread used should be
Mecklenburg linen thread; that of Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. we
strongly recommend as being of pure linen, washing and wearing well; it
is pleasant to work with, from the regularity and evenness of the make.
The numbers run thus:--2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 24, 30, 36,
and 40--and will be found adapted for every kind of lace stitch. No. 2
is the coarsest, No. 40 the finest, size.
In working point lace the following directions must be attended to:
Begin at the left hand, and work from left to right, when not otherwise
directed, as in reverse rows. Before cutting off the braid run a few
stitches across it to prevent it widening. Joins should be avoided, but
when a join is indispensable, stitch the braid together, open and turn
back the ends, and stitch each portion down separately. When passing the
thread from one part to another, run along the centre of the braid,
allowing the stitches to show as little as possible. In commencing, make
a few stitches, leaving the end of the thread on the wrong side and
cutting it off afterwards. In fastening off, make a tight button-hole
stitch, run on three stitches, bring the needle out at the back, and cut
off.
Having now completed our list of materials, we can proceed to lay on the
braid.
[Illustration: 442.--Mode of Placing the Braid.]
TO PLACE THE BRAID.--No. 442 shows the design traced upon paper or
tracing cloth, and lightly tacked to a foundation of leather or toile
cirée. Run on a straight line of braid for the lower edge, with fine
stitches, working as shown from left to right. Take another piece of
braid, or the other end of the same piece, and begin to lay the braid by
"running" stitches in its centre, keeping it as smooth and even as
possible. The outer edge presents no difficulty, but the inner edge will
not lie evenly without being drawn in by a needle and thread, as
follows:--Thread a No. 9 needle with No. 12 Mecklenburg thread about 20
inches long, fasten the thread to one point, and insert the needle in
and out of the edge of the braid, as if for fine gathering; this thread
when drawn up will keep the braid in its place. Two or three fastening
off stitches should be worked when each circle, half circle, or rounded
curve of a pattern is finished, as the drawing or gathering thread
remains in the work, and forms an important, though unseen, part of its
structure.
As much of the beauty of point lace depends upon the manner of placing
the braid, ladies cannot bestow too much pains upon this part of the
work, which is a little troublesome to beginners. Many fancy shops now
undertake this braid-placing for ladies, who can have their own pattern
braided and commenced or braided alone at trifling expense. Among these
may be mentioned the following houses:--Goubaud, 30, Henrietta-street,
Covent-garden. Boutillier, Oxford-street, W.