Lace is of two kinds--pillow lace, which is made upon a cushion or
pillow, and point lace, which is made of stitches or _points_ worked in
patterns by hand, which are joined by various stitches forming a
groundwork, also the result of the needle above.
Pillow lace is entirely worked on the pillow or cushion, the pattern and
ground being produced at the same time. Pillow lace is sometimes
correctly called bone or bobbin lace, but it appears that the
distinction has never been very nicely observed either by lace-workers
or lace-traders, many sorts which are really pillow lace being called
point, on account of some peculiarity in the stitch or pattern.
The requisites for producing lace in perfection are the dexterity and
taste of the workers, and the goodness of the material. To produce many
beautiful fabrics a mechanical dexterity alone suffices, but in
lace-making the worker must have some artistic talent, even when
supplied with designs, for any one can perceive that deviations from the
design are easily made, and that the slightest alteration by a worker
wanting in taste will spoil the whole piece of workmanship.
The following illustrations are specimens of ancient and modern laces
from Mrs. Bury Palliser's collection:--
[Illustration: 419.--Dalecarlian Lace.]
[Illustration: 420.--Old Mechlin.]
[Illustration: 421.--Mechlin Lace (Queen Charlotte's).]
No. 419 shows Dalecarlian lace, made by the women of Dalecarlia. This is
a coarse kind of lace, and is sewn on caps, &c., and, although highly
starched, is never washed, for fear of destroying its coffee-coloured
tint, which, it appears, is as much prized now by the Swedish rustics as
it was by English ladies in the last century.
[Illustration: 422.--Buckingham Point Trolly, 1851 (Black Lace).]
Both these specimens of Mechlin belonged to Queen Charlotte, who much
admired this elegant lace.
No. 423.--The Bedford plaited lace is an improvement on the old Maltese.
Honiton guipure lace is distinguished by the groundwork being of various
stitches, in place of being sewn upon a net ground. The application of
Honiton sprigs upon bobbin net has been of late years almost superseded
by this modern guipure. The sprigs, when made, are sewn upon a piece of
blue paper and united on the pillow with "cutworks" or "purlings," or
else joined with the needle by various stitches--lacet, point, réseau,
cutwork, button-hole, and purling.
[Illustration: 423.--Bedford Plaited Lace (1851).]
Those who wish to study lace and lace-making should read Mrs. Bury
Palliser's _History of Lace_ (Sampson Low and Marston).
[Illustration: 424.--Honiton Guipure Lace.]