Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100
tatting-pin No. 1.
[Illustration: 38.--Cap in Tatting.]
This very pretty cap consists of an oval crown in tatting, edged all
round with a tatted lace, the lappets are made in tatting also. The cap
is trimmed with large and small rosettes of narrow blue velvet. A narrow
velvet ribbon is drawn through the straight open-work edge of the lace,
as can be seen in illustration.
[Illustration: 39--Border for Cap No. 38.]
* * * * *
No. 39.--Border for Cap.--The upper part of the border consists of 4
rows of circles worked at a distance of three-fifths of an inch from
each other. The circles of the 1st row consist of 3 double, 3 purl
divided by 3 double, 3 double. In the following 3 rows each circle is
fastened on to the cotton, which joins 2 circles in the 1st row, instead
of working the middle purl, the cotton between 2 circles in the last row
must only be two-fifths of an inch long. Then work a certain number of
six-branched rosettes, each branch consisting of 9 double, 1 purl, 9
double. Each rosette is fastened on to every other circle of the
1st row, as can be seen in illustration. The border is completed as
follows:--* 1 double, 6 purl divided by 1 double, 1 purled stitch
fastened on to the middle purl of a circle of the 1st row, 1 plain, 6
purl divided by 1 double, join the stitch into a circle, turn the lace
so that the rosettes are turned upwards, fasten the cotton on to the
purl of the next branch of the next rosette, work 1 double, 7 purl
divided by 1 double, 1 double; fasten the cotton on to the purl of the
next branch, * work 1 double, 8 purl divided by 1 double, 1 double;
fasten the cotton on to the next branch, repeat once more from *, work 1
double, 7 purl divided by 1 double, 1 double, and repeat from * to the
end of the lace.
* * * * *
40.--_Lace in Tatting and Crochet_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50;
tatting-pin No. 2; crochet cotton No. 60.
[Illustration: 40.--Lace in Tatting and Crochet.]
The beauty of this lace depends entirely upon the regularity of the
tatting. The purl stitches must be very regularly made, the circles must
be drawn up tight. Make * 1 circle, consisting of 4 double, 8 purl
divided by 2 double, 4 double; close to this circle a second one; 5
double fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, 8 times 2
double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl
5 double, close to the 2nd circle a third one similar to the first, but
instead of working the 1st purl fasten it on the last purl of the
preceding circle; leave an interval of about 1-2/5 inch, and repeat from
* till the lace is sufficiently long. The rest is worked in crochet.
Take the fine crochet cotton and work the straight row at the top to
join the patterns together. Crochet 1 double in the 3 first and last
purl of the first and last circle of one pattern, then a sufficient
number of double stitches under the piece of cotton which joins 2
circles. At the place where the circles are drawn together, join the two
pieces of cotton (the beginning and the end) in such a manner that the
top of the lace forms a straight line (see illustration). The 2nd row
consists of 1 treble in every other stitch, 1 chain after every treble.
Then work on the other side of the lace * a row of treble stitches
divided by chain. The treble stitches are worked in the purl stitches of
the circles. Work 1 long treble in the 1st purl left free of the 1st
circle (4th purl of the circle), 3 chain, * 1 treble, 3 chain, 1 treble,
3 chain, 2 treble in the next 2 purl, but cast off the 1st treble only
so far as to keep 2 loops on the needle. When the 2nd treble is
completed cast off all the loops on the needle, 3 chain, 5 treble
divided by 4 chain, 3 chain, 2 treble in the 2 following purl, which are
cast off like those above described, 3 chain, 2 treble divided by 3
chain in the 2 next purl of a pattern, 1 chain, 1 long treble with which
you must join the last purl and the first one of the next pattern, 1
chain; repeat from *. The next row consists of small scallops worked
round the chain stitch scallops of the preceding row; work in each 1
double, 4 treble, 1 double, 1 double in the first and last chain stitch
of every pattern.
* * * * *
41.--_Insertion in Tatting and Crochet_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40; crochet
cotton No. 60; tatting-pin No. 2.
[Illustration: 41.--Insertion in Tatting and Crochet.]
Begin the tatting with fine cotton and 2 shuttles. Work with the cotton
on one shuttle over the cotton on the other in the following
manner:--Knot the 2 ends of cotton together * 4 times 2 double divided
by a short purl, 3 long purl divided by 1 double; the 1st and 3rd purl
must be three-fifths of an inch long, the 2nd one two-fifths of an inch;
4 times 2 double divided by a short purl, 1 purl two-fifths of an inch
long; repeat from * till the strip of insertion is sufficiently long.
Then work a similar row of tatting, and join the two rows before working
the 1 long purl, by fastening the cotton on the corresponding long purl
of the 1st row, so that the 2 rows are joined closely together, and the
purl stitches of either are turned outwards. At the top and bottom of
the tatting work the 3 following rows of crochet:--* 1 double in the
middle one of the 3 long purl, 8 chain, 1 double in each of the 3
following long purl, 8 chain; repeat from * to the end of the row. 2nd
row. 8 double in each scallop, miss the 3 double stitches of the
preceding row under 3 chain. The 3rd row consists of treble stitches in
every other stitch, 1 chain after every treble. Lastly, the leaves are
worked with thick cotton by filling up the first and last long purl of a
pattern with darning stitch from illustration; the cross stitches
between the two rows of tatting are worked with very fine cotton.
* * * * *
42.--_Purse in Tatting and Beads_.
Materials: Grey purse-silk; steel beads; scarlet glacé silk; a steel
clasp with chain.
This purse is worked in tatting with grey silk and beads. The beads are
threaded on a piece of silk, with which you work over another piece of
the same. Begin each of the second halves of the purse with the circle
in the centre, which consists of 1 purled stitch, 1 purl (all the purl
of this circle are three-tenths of an inch long, and are covered with
six beads, which must be drawn up close together before working the
purl), 12 double divided by 1 purl. Join the stitches into a circle by
knotting together the two ends of the silk.
2nd round: Begin again and work one of the small circles; * 2 double,
draw up one bead after each, 1 double, 1 short purl without beads, 2
double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, fasten the silk on the purl of the
middle circle, so as to let it come between the 3rd and 4th bead of the
6 beads on that purl; 2 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 short
purl, 2 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, join the stitches into a
circle, draw up 2 beads; work a larger circle without fastening the silk
belonging to the smaller one; 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1
purl with 4 beads, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double; 1 short purl,
3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl with 4 beads, 3 double, 1
bead after each, 1 double; draw up 2 beads close to this large circle
and repeat from *. Each following small circle must be fastened on the
next purl of the circle which forms the centre; they are also fastened
on to each other, instead of working the 1st purl, by fastening the
piece of silk over which you work on the preceding small circle; in the
larger circles, instead of working the 1st purl with 4 beads, the piece
of silk must be fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, so
that it comes between the 2nd and 3rd beads. At the end of the round,
the ends of the silk are knotted together and fastened off.
[Illustration: 42.--Purse in Tatting and Beads.]
3rd round: * 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 short purl, 3
double, 1 bead after each, 1 double fastened on the middle purl of the
1st circle of the preceding round, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1
double, 1 purl with 2 beads, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double; join
the stitches into a circle, and work at a short distance a 2nd circle; 3
double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, fastened on the last purl of the
just-finished circle of this round, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1
double fastened on the purl of the preceding round which is between 2
circles; the loop must come between the 2 beads; 3 double, 1 bead after
each; 1 double, 1 purl with 2 beads; 3 double, with 1 bead after each; 1
double; leave a small interval, and repeat 11 times more from *, then
fasten the ends.
When two similar parts have been worked, line them with scarlet glacé
silk; fasten them together round the outside, and sew on the clasp. A
round of large circles edges the purse round the outside. The 1st of
these circles consists of 12 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl
with 2 beads, 4 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double. Work a 2nd circle
at a short distance from the 1st: * 4 double, 1 bead after each, 1
double fastened on the purl of the 1st circle of this round; 7 double, 1
bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl with 2 beads, 4 double, 1 bead after
each, 1 double; leave a short interval, and repeat from * till a
sufficient number of circles have been made. The last purl is not worked
in the last circle.
* * * * *