Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 30;
tatting-pin No. 3.
Begin by working separately a sufficient number of small rosettes, each
composed of six ovals of double stitches and purl. These ovals are
worked first in a straight row, then they are joined into a circle and
united in the centre by button-hole stitches. The rosettes are joined
together with fine cotton. The crochet border is then worked on either
side in chain stitches and treble crochet, as seen in illustration.
[Illustration: 24.--Insertion in Tatting.]
* * * * *
25.--_Centre of a Tatted Couvrette_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 20, or
crochet cotton No. 1; tatting-pin No. 2.
This illustration shows the centre of a tatted couvrette in full size,
and measuring 12 inches across. Separate rosettes like the pattern may
be joined together with smaller ones, and form a very pretty couvrette.
The pattern is worked in rounds. Begin the rosette with a circle,
consisting of 4 double, 1 purl, 6 double, 1 purl, 6 double, 1 purl, 4
double. Take up another shuttle, and work over the cotton on it, fasten
the end on the last double of the circle and work over it, beginning
close to the circle, 6 plain, 1 circle like the 1st worked with the 1st
shuttle, and which is fastened on the last purl of the 1st circle at the
place of the 1st purl; 6 plain, and continue to work so alternately till
you have 7 circles divided by 6 plain stitches. Draw up very tightly the
cotton over which you work, so that the circles form a rosette, which is
closed by sewing together the two corresponding purl of the first and
last circle. Both the ends of the cotton over which you have worked are
knotted together. For the 2nd round, fasten the cotton on one shuttle on
the middle purl of a circle, work a circle like those of the 1st round,
take up the 2nd shuttle, and work on exactly as in the 1st round, only
work 8 plain between the circles over the cotton on the 2nd shuttle. The
2nd round consists of 15 circles; the cotton with which you work must be
fastened at the required places on the middle purl of a circle of the
preceding round. The 3rd and following rounds are worked in the same
manner; the number of circles must be such as to keep the couvrette
quite flat. In the pattern the 3rd round has 26 circles. Fasten the
cotton well after each round.
[Illustration: 25.--Centre of a Tatted Couvrette.]
* * * * *
26.--_Tatted Lace_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 30;
tatting-pin No. 2.
[Illustration: 26.--Tatted Lace.]
This very simple lace consists of scallops which look as if they were
slightly gathered. It must be worked with tatting cotton. Each scallop
consists of 5 plain, 1 purl, 5 plain, then alternately 5 purled
stitches, draw up these stitches till the cotton between the 1st and
last stitch is two-fifths of an inch long, and work a 2nd similar
scallop at a short distance from the 1st. But in the following scallops
fasten each to the last purl of the preceding scallop instead of working
the 1st purl.
* * * * *
27.--_Tatted Lace_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50 or 80;
tatting-pin No. 3.
[Illustration: 27.--Tatted Lace.]
This pretty lace is worked with fine tatting cotton. Work with 2
threads; the knots are worked over the cotton, which is held in the
right hand. Work first the outer scallops of the lace
Fasten both ends of cotton together and make 10 double, divided by 1
purl, turn the work so as to turn the wrong side upwards, fasten the
cotton over which you work on to the last purl, go back over the same
row, miss 1 purl next to the cotton with which you work, 9 double
divided by 1 purl, fastening the cotton over which you work on the next
purl of the 1st row after every double stitch. This forms 1 scallop. *
Turn the work downwards (that is, the purl stitch must be turned
downwards), make 4 times 2 double, 1 purl, 1 purled stitch: this is the
straight row between 2 outer scallops of the lace. Then work a scallop
like the preceding one, fastening it from illustration after the first
row on the middle one of the 9 outer purl of the preceding scallop, with
the cotton over which you work; repeat from * till the lace is long
enough, and fasten the cotton. Knot both ends together again, fasten the
cotton over which you work on the first purl of the first scallop, make
9 double, 1 short purl, 1 double, turn so that the upper edge of the row
is turned downwards, and the scallops upwards, 5 double, fasten the 2
middle purl of the 4 of the next straight row together by drawing the
cotton, with which you are working through the 2nd purl, so as to form a
loop, draw the cotton over which you work through this loop and draw up
the latter; work 5 double, fasten the cotton over which you work on to
the short purl worked after 9 double, turn the work so that the outer
scallops of the lace are turned downwards, 10 double, fasten the cotton
over which you work on the first purl of the next scallop, repeat from
*, and fasten the cotton. After having fastened both ends together
again, turn the work the right side upwards and the outer scallops
upwards also, fasten the cotton over which you work on to the short purl
which is under the first loop; * work 4 times 2 double, 1 purl, 2
double, fasten the cotton over which you work on the purl under the
next loop, and repeat from * till the lace is completed.
* * * * *
28.--_Collar in Tatting and Darned Netting_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40;
tatting-pin No. 3; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s French embroidery
cotton No. 60; square netting.
[Illustration: 28.--Collar in Tatting and Darned Netting]
The pattern is worked with very fine cotton; the netted grounding over a
mesh measuring two-fifths of an inch round. The collar is ornamented
round the outer edge with a tatted lace. Work a straight strip of
netting for the grounding; begin with 2 stitches, work 18 rows backwards
and forwards, increasing 1 at the end of each row, so that the last row
has 19 holes; work 1 row without increasing; then continue to work with
the same number of stitches, increasing 1 at the end of one row and
decreasing 1 at the end of the other. When the strip is sufficiently
long, work 1 row again without increasing or decreasing, and form
the side by making 18 rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of each,
cast off the 2 last stitches on 1 stitch without forming a new stitch on
the needle. Trace the outline of the collar on the grounding with thick
cotton, and begin to darn it from illustration. When the darning is
completed work the tatted lace with the same cotton, as follows:--6
double, 1 short purl, alternately, 3 times 3 double, 1 purl, 6 double,
draw up the stitch so as to form a scallop leaving one-fifth of an inch
between the first and last stitch; work a second scallop at a short
distance from the first, and so on; every scallop is fastened on to the
preceding one after the first 3 double stitches. Work a row of double
overcast stitch between the darned netting and the tatted lace; work
this row over the cotton tracing, marking the outline of the collar on
the grounding and over the cotton between the tatted scallops. Work also
a row of double overcast round the neck part, gathering in the collar a
little if necessary. Cut away the netting on the wrong side close to the
row of overcast stitches.
* * * * *
29.--_Mignardise and Tatting_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40; fine
mignardise braid.
[Illustration: 29.--Mignardise and Tatting.]
Patterns formed of mignardise and tatting are of quite new style, and
look very pretty. The insertion is easy to work by the following
process:--Make first a circle, as follows: 1 plain stitch, 2 double, 1
purl, 6 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 plain; fasten the cotton on to one
side of the mignardise, at the distance of about five-eighths of an
inch, by taking 2 loops of it together; work a second circle at a short
distance from the first, and so on. When the strip of insertion is
sufficiently long, work in the same manner on the other side of the
mignardise. This kind of work is destined to become very popular, and
nothing can be more light and graceful than the union of mignardise and
tatting.
* * * * *
30.--_Linen Bag for Cotton_.
Materials: Fine linen, 6 inches square; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
tatting cotton No. 40.
[Illustration: 30.--Linen Bag for Cotton.]
The bag seen in illustration No. 30 is meant to keep the cotton for
working a couvrette; it consists of a round piece, measuring 6 inches
across, which is hemmed all round, and trimmed with a tatted lace. It is
drawn together at top.
* * * * *
31.--_Tatting Insertion_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s cotton No. 30.
The insertion shown in illustration No. 31 is composed in two similar
halves. Begin the first in the following way:--10 double, 1 purl, 3
double, 1 purl, 10 double, join the stitches into a circle, and work a
second similar circle at a distance of one-third of an inch; instead of
the 1st purl, draw the cotton through the 2nd purl of the first-worked
circle; leave an interval of one-eighth of an inch, and repeat the two
rounds till the insertion is sufficiently long. Then tat round the
pieces of cotton which join the two rounds, work round the longest 10
double, and round the shortest 4 double, inserting the shuttle
alternately once upwards and once downwards, but for the rest proceeding
as in the common button-hole stitch. When the first half is completed,
work the second in the same way, and fasten it on to the first with the
purl.
[Illustration: 31.--Tatting Insertion.]
* * * * *
32.--_Tatting Insertion_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s cotton No. 30.
[Illustration: 32.--Tatting Insertion.]
The pretty effect of the insertion shown in illustration No. 32 is
obtained by means of longer and shorter purl. Work as follows:--Join 9
double into a circle, 1 long purl, 3 double, 1 long purl, 4 double *.
After an interval of five-eighths of an inch, begin the large figure of
the pattern: 2 double, 1 small purl, 2 double, draw the cotton through
the last purl of the small circle, 2 double, drawn through the 1st purl
of the same circle, 2 double, 1 small purl, 2 double, 1 long purl, 2
double, 1 small purl, 2 double, repeat 6 times more from *, and draw up.
After an interval of five-eighths of an inch comes another small circle:
4 double, draw the cotton through the last purl of the large figure, 3
double, draw the cotton through the next long purl of the same figure, 2
double, 1 long purl, 3 double, 1 long purl, 4 double. Repeat the pattern
for the length of insertion required. The threads which join the small
circles are worked over with 7 double in the manner described above,
only the cotton at the principal figure must be left loose the width of
a straw, so as to imitate a long purl. Complete the insertion from
illustration by tatting round the small circles of 16 double on the
other side (but in the contrary direction), form no purl, but draw the
cotton through the long purl of the large figure; the threads which join
the 2 circles are likewise drawn through the middle long purl of the
large figure; this thread is then tatted over with 7 double, like the
opposite outer edge.
* * * * *
33.--_Tatted Square or Diamond_.
Materials: If for couvrettes, Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting
cotton No. 20, or crochet cotton No. 4; tatting-pin No. 3. For d'oyleys,
tatting cotton No. 50; tatting-pin No. 2. For headdresses, tatting
cotton No. 80; tatting-pin No. 2.
The square is composed first of nine 4-branched patterns, worked in 3
rows of 3 patterns each, and joined on one to the other with purl. Each
pattern consists of 4 branches close to each other, and each branch
consists of 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double; when the 4 branches of one
pattern are completed, cut off the cotton, and fasten both ends
together so as to form a small circle in the centre. Then work a second
pattern, which is fastened on to the first and second branches of the
first pattern, instead of working the purl stitch; work a third pattern,
which is fastened in the same manner on to the second pattern. Then work
2 more rows exactly the same as can be seen in illustration.
[Illustration: 33.--Tatted Square.]
*For the border of the square, fasten the cotton on the first purl of
the first pattern, work 4 double, 13 purl divided by 2 double, 4 double,
draw up the stitches close, fasten the cotton again on to the same purl
of the first pattern *, and work the following scallop at a short
distance:--4 double fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle,
10 purl divided by 2 double, 4 double, draw up the stitch, leaving an
interval of two-fifths of an inch between the first and the last; fasten
the cotton on to the next purl which joins two patterns, repeat twice
more from *, and continue to repeat from *.
* * * * *
34.--_Tatted Rosette_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40, or
crochet cotton No. 60.
[Illustration: 34.--Tatted Rosette.]
This rosette is very pretty for trimming _lingeries_; it is worked with
very fine crochet or tatting cotton. Begin in the centre and work one
circle: 16 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 1 purled stitch.
Fasten the cotton on to the first purl and work the 2nd round: 1 small
circle, consisting of 6 double divided by 1 purl. Fasten the cotton on
to the next purl of the middle circle, and repeat in rounds. 3rd round:
Fasten the cotton on the middle purl of the first circle of the
preceding round, * work at a short distance 8 double divided by 1 purl,
join the stitches into a circle, fasten the cotton at the same distance
on to the middle purl of the next circle of the preceding round, and
repeat in rounds from *, after which the cotton is fastened off.
* * * * *
35.--_Rosette in Tatting_.
[Illustration: 35.--Rosette in Tatting.]
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40;
tatting-pin No. 3.
Begin this rosette with the circle in the centre, and work 8 times
alternately 2 double, 1 purl, 1 double, join the stitches into a circle
and fasten the cotton. Take a second shuttle and work over the cotton on
this shuttle; knot the two ends of cotton together * and work 5 plain,
fasten the cotton over which you work on a purl of the circle which is
completed, and which must be turned downwards; 5 plain, 1 purl; repeat 7
times more from *, and fasten the cotton. Work now with one of the
shuttles the small circles on the outside; * fasten the cotton on to a
purl of the second round, and work a circle as follows:--6 double, 1
purl, 6 double, fasten the cotton on to the same purl of the second
round, work a similar circle at a short distance, and a third at the
same distance. Repeat 7 times more from *, and fasten off the cotton
neatly.
* * * * *
36.--_Diamond in Tatting_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40;
tatting-pin No. 2.
[Illustration: 36.--Diamond in Tatting.]
This diamond is suitable for trimming collars, cuffs, &c., when worked
with fine cotton. Work first the four corner patterns separately, as
follows:--7 double, 3 purl divided by 3 double, 6 double, join the
stitches into a circle, work close to this circle a second one
consisting of 6 double fastened on the last purl of the 1st circle, 4
double, 2 purl divided by 4 double, 6 double; then a 3rd circle
consisting of 6 double fastened on the last purl of the preceding
circle, 3 double, 2 purl divided by 3 double, 7 double. Take a second
shuttle, fasten the cotton on the end of the cotton of the 1st circle,
throw the cotton of the 1st shuttle over the fingers of the left hand,
and work with this cotton over the cotton on the other shuttle in the
right hand. Work 5 double, and then one circle as follows with the
cotton in the left hand only:--8 double fastened on the last purl of the
3rd of the 3 circles worked close to each other, 5 double, 1 purl, 5
double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 6 double, then again over the cotton
on the other shuttle, 5 double, 4 purl divided by 5 double, 5 double,
then with one shuttle only one circle as follows:--6 double, 1 purl, 4
double, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 5 double fastened on 1st purl of the
circle worked at the beginning, 8 double; then again with two shuttles 5
double. Fasten the cotton on the piece of cotton before the 5 double
worked with two shuttles, so that the stitches worked over two shuttles
form a circle, and cut off the cotton. When three of these patterns have
been worked, work the centre pattern of the square. It consists of 4
leaves touching each other at the lower points; each leaf is formed of 3
double, 5 purl divided by 3 double, 3 double; each following leaf is
fastened on to the preceding one at the place of the 1st purl. Then work
first 1 round of the oval circles of the square, with which the corner
patterns are joined. Fasten the cotton on one purl of one corner
pattern, make 7 double, 1 purl, 8 double; fasten on the corresponding
purl of another corner pattern, work 8 double, 1 purl, 7 double, join
the stitches into a circle, fasten the cotton on to the same purl to
which the cotton has already been fastened, carry the latter on to the
next purl of the same corner pattern, fasten it, then work three more
circles like the first, which are fastened on to each preceding circle,
at the place of the first purl; fasten the cotton on the two cross purl
of the centre pattern, and work four similar circles on the other side
of the same. The 8 circles which go across the square in the opposite
direction are worked in the same manner. When the square is completed,
draw two threads on each side of each corner pattern on to the other
side of the square along the cotton which joins the circles together.
* * * * *
37.--_Tatting for Cap Crown_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100;
tatting-pin No. 1.
[Illustration: 37.--Tatting for Cap Crown.]
This pattern is very pretty for the crown of a cap like the one
described on page 36, and also for covers, toilet cushions, &c. The size
of the cotton depends upon the use you wish to make of the pattern. The
pattern is worked with fine tatting cotton. It consists of
eight-branched rosettes joined together with small circles. Each rosette
is worked as follows: Work 8 loops or branches close to each other,
consisting of 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double; fasten both ends of the
cotton together, and cut them off. Each of the small circles which joins
the rosettes together consists of 2 double, 8 purl divided by 2 double.
It is easy to see from the illustration how the patterns are joined
together by means of the purl stitches.
* * * * *