Being ordered to join the Regiment in the West Indies, I proceeded for
that purpose from Albany Barracks, in the Isle of Wight, to Cowes, the
21st of November, 1820.--On the morning of the 22nd, the troops
intended for the same destination embarked on board of the John
Rickards, a fine ship, the captain of which, John Ward, was an
excellent seaman, as well as a kind and amiable character. The
detachments were composed of men belonging to the Royal Artillery, and
50th, 58th and 92nd regiments; all commanded by Major Henry Pierce,
R.A.--
In consequence of the unfavourable state of the wind, the ship
remained at anchor in the roads. The officers employed this interval
in making further preparations, as well as in amusing themselves in
the best way they could, some in wandering along the sandy beach,
others in sauntering about the streets, and not a few in rambling
through the country in various directions, exploring the beauties of
the island.
On the morning of the 25th, the wind coming round to N.E., signal was
immediately made, when with hasty steps we all repaired to the boats
lying at the sea-beach, ready to convey us on board. In a little time
the embarkation was completed, and about noon we were under way,
standing down channel with a lively breeze, and a fine clear day. The
bustle and commotion, incident to the beginning of a long passage, the
stowing away of animated and inanimate lumber, with a train of other
preparatory measures, were attended with the confusion and noise that
generally takes place on such occasions, and it was not until we had
got pretty well out to sea that matters subsided into something like
good order and regularity.
The cabin was not much better than those narrow prisons usually are in
the West India Merchantmen, but afforded tolerable head room to those
who were not descended from a race of giants. The berths, or cupboard
looking dens, intended to do the duty of sleeping places, on either
side, were hammered up in a very rude style, without regard to comfort
or convenience, presenting nothing whatever to allure to peaceful
slumber the unfortunate being who was doomed to be incarcerated in
them. Their odour was not exactly of a kind to rival that of the rose;
such as they were, however, we had no alternative; a hammock suspended
from the ceiling of the cabin would of two evils have been by far the
least.
The officers were all a cheerful and good tempered set of men, each
resolved to contribute his mite to the general stock of harmony; and
thus assist to lessen the miseries that form unavoidably part and
parcel of a shipboard life. Politely speaking, the fair ladies ought
to have been first alluded to. Those whom we were so fortunate as to
have for our companions, were well disposed to lend their aid in
promoting whatever might tend to relieve the tiresome voyage. We could
not therefore fail of being as happy as mortals could expect, under
all the circumstances.
While passing the Needles, the pilot took his leave, burthened with
numerous epistles and billet doux, to wives and sweethearts. We gave
many a longing lingering look to his weather-beaten skiff, as it
glided swiftly to the shore, viewing it as the last connecting link of
that chain which bound us to Old England; but now alas! to be severed,
while we remained under mournful feelings, which the bright aspect of
surrounding things could hardly dissipate.
It was beautiful to behold, on that sunny day, the prospect on either
side, whether we looked to the green hills of the Isle of Wight, or on
the rich and varied scenery along the coasts of Hants and Dorset.
Sailing at the rate of six or seven knots, we rapidly bounded through
the water, and, bearing away to the south-east, in a few hours we
cleared the English Channel.
By this time we began to experience certain very uncomfortable qualms,
felt more or less by landsmen and sailors on their first invasion of
the ocean. Gay and jocund looks were speedily changed into those of a
more sickly character, the unpitied and unpitying malady, as the sea
got rough, spreading its influence around. As for the griffins, or
young adventurers, they vanished in silence to the lower regions,
betaking themselves to their proper dens, where they lay perdue,
meditating on their hapless fate; and, in a situation bordering on
despair, were indifferent as to whether they went to the bottom of the
deep, or were dismissed from the world by a shorter road. It is
wonderful how soon the ardour of even the most ambitious hero is
cooled by a bout of sea-sickness; the frame and spirit are paralysed,
and all the energies of mind and body are lying prostrate, and he
cares not a farthing for himself, or any human being. The worst of it
is, no one has compassion on the wretched victim, and though he may
seem absolutely in a dying state, the healthy and older hands only
laugh or grin at his distress; shaking their contented sides, while
they cruelly prescribe for the unhappy patient a fat mutton chop, or a
wedge of greasy bacon. For the smallest spot of solid earth upon which
to set one's foot, even though it were in a barren wilderness, the
wealth of India would with gladness be exchanged, and, in bitterness
of heart, the meanest reptile that ever crawled upon the surface of
dry land becomes an object of envy.
Our gallant bark still ploughed her way through the restless and
sparkling waters, bearing the faint and the light-hearted, the joyful
together with the sad, onward to the warm and renovating atmosphere of
southern regions. Even when our calamities were at their worst, there
was always something to keep us from sinking into total despondency.
Among other resources against care and ennui, there was the amusing
society of a gentleman, named Charles, our worthy surgeon, a stout,
broad shouldered Milesian. He was the drollest fellow imaginable, of
such infinite humour that he not only was the means of banishing the
blue devils from those who were in health, but of raising the spirits
of the sick and down-cast. In short he was a genius that could keep
the table in a roar.
We could not by any means get on without the Doctor, who, by his
comicalities and racy mirth, has restored more patients than hundreds
of his drenching brotherhood have done, by all their quackery,
nostrums, pills and boluses. This jolly son of Esculapius had all the
ready wit and quaint originality of his countrymen. By his songs,
anecdotes and stories, the tedium of many a wintry night upon the deck
was pleasantly beguiled. These were indeed sufficient to dispel the
grievous thoughts of even the most miserable ascetic that ever pined
away his days in cell or hermitage. Poor Charles ended his career in
Jamaica, where he fell a victim to the yellow fever, and his brother
officers were thus deprived of a social companion, and society of a
good-natured and estimable member.
Biscay, with all its stormy attributes, now stared us wildly in the
face, and shortly we were rolling on its waves, with nothing to
relieve the prospect. We, fortunately, escaped this time any very
tempestuous weather, being reminded only now and then, by sundry awful
lurches, (to the total overthrow of tables and contents), that we were
still in blustrous latitudes, and that we could not hope to cross this
noted bay without some little tossing, and a brush or two from one of
those gales for which it has so long been famed. Ground and lofty
tumbling, as well as other gymnastics, sufficient to educate the
novice for a trial of skill in that branch of science, holding on by
ropes, a somerset or two, intermingled with a game at all fours, were
consequently, in their turn, the most general occupations of the
landsmen; while, at the dinner table, the farce that was occasionally
exhibited was quite as good as anything that Mathews could perform,
and could not fail to excite the risible faculties of a stoic.
When quietly seated round the festive board, during a lull, or while
the sea was calm, there was nothing but "eat, drink, and be merry;"
but, presently, comes on the old work of pitching and rolling. By one
tremendous lurch, the company are thrown upon their beam-ends, all
make a grasp at the table, which is followed by a pull at the cloth;
then comes on the tug of war,--chairs, stools, benches, give way from
their moorings, in consequence of the violent shock, accompanied by a
column of plates, dishes, mugs, and glasses, with a long train of
crockery, and our stock of eatables, all are mingled up together, and
scattered about in every direction. A platter of potatoes is flung
into the lap of the unlucky genius who has been endeavouring to rescue
a leg of mutton; a piece of salt junk is delivered up in exchange for
some pickled pork; and thrice happy the wight, who, in trying to save
his own bacon, gains possession of a huge ham that flies most lovingly
to his arms. Soup and gravy are distributed in profuse showers upon
the sprawling gastronomes, who with open mouths engulf the savoury
fluid, and ruefully glancing upwards, survey with wistful eyes the
precious morsels, flying to and fro in mid air, to tantalize their
hungry maws, rendering more keen the bitter misfortune which has thus
so cruelly deprived them of cherished joys, now dissipated like the
morning dew. Meanwhile the ill-fated masticators, so lately floored,
not daring to let go the ring bolts and table legs which they most
affectionately clasp, lie scrambling with all the appendages of bed
and board coming in awful contact with their devoted heads; too happy,
if perchance, amid the fearful chaos, they can be permitted to gnaw
the tough and stringy junk, or enter into discussion with a flinty
biscuit, seasoned by a ravenous appetite, the sauce a la mode with all
campaigners of ancient and modern times.
So much for a dinner at sea. The drama brought forward while in the
enjoyment of the beverage that "cheers but not inebriates," was much
of the same character, whenever our good ship thought proper to
recommence her antics, and comfort, like riches, "made unto herself
wings and flew away," leaving her shipmates to weather it out in the
best manner they were able during the period of her absence.
After doubling Cape Finisterre the weather became remarkably fine, and
we began to experience the genial influence of a milder atmosphere.
About the 4th of December, we approached the latitude of Madeira; the
nights were beautiful and light, the stars also appearing with a
brilliancy we had not before observed. While the winter in England was
setting in with all its accustomed severity, we were throwing off our
warm clothing, and getting the awnings and wind sails in readiness to
guard against the effect of extreme heat. On the 8th, at daylight,
land was seen from the mast head, which upon close inspection proved
to be that of the above island, bearing S.E. by S., and distant about
twenty miles. The wind being contrary, we made but little way, beating
off and on, sometimes becalmed, with the sails flapping idly about the
masts and yards. In this wearisome situation, without any thing
whatever to vary the dull sameness, we were glad to embrace the first
opportunity that might present itself of making an attack upon our
neighbours of the deep. The idlers, therefore, began to try their hand
at a little amusement in that line. The appearance of some turtle,
floating on the surface of the water, induced Captain Ward to lower
the jolly boat, into which Ensign Ross and three expert sailors
immediately leaped, pushing off at once with the intention of breaking
in upon the slumbers of these drowsy animals, and, if possible, of
introducing one or two of them to the acquaintance of the gentlemen on
board.
Arriving at the spot where the fish were basking in the sun, they made
an ineffectual effort to get one of them into their hands; and, soon
after, they were seen tugging away lustily at the oar, on their return
to the ship. They had unfortunately neglected to stop the hole by
means of which the boat was to be drained, the water had gradually
entered before they had perceived the error, and the boat was filling
rapidly. There was no time to be lost; with every nerve and sinew the
anxious crew leaned firmly to their work; but, being in a swamping
state, they moved slowly through the water. By a miracle at last they
gained their vessel, up the sides of which the exhausted men were
hardly able to clamber. It was with difficulty they got on deck,
thankful that they had so narrowly escaped a watery grave.
While we were off Madeira Captain Ward was desirous of complying with
the wishes of the officers, by landing them, but the violent surf on
the beach being likely to endanger us in the attempt, and the wind
being light and baffling, it was found impossible to accomplish the
desired object.
On the 14th of December we discovered the Island of Palma, bearing
S.W. The famous Peak of Teneriffe was likewise observable. In a few
days, we got within the influence of the Trade Winds, blowing
regularly throughout the year, between N.E. and N.W. The deck now
became agreeably cool, in consequence of the awning being spread, and
our rate of sailing being generally six, seven, or eight knots, with a
fine steady breeze, under every stitch of canvass we could bear, we
generally ran from a hundred and fifty to two hundred miles in the
twenty four hours. The only remarkable event that happened on the
passage took place about this time, which nearly proved fatal to one
of the men. A soldier of the 92nd being accused of theft, and fearing
the shame and punishment that might ensue, formed the desperate
resolution of throwing himself overboard. He accordingly jumped from
the main shrouds into the sea, and, not being able to swim, he dropped
fast astern. The ship, which was going at the rate of six knots, was
hove to, and the jolly boat was immediately lowered, into which three
of the crew threw themselves, and pulled in the direction pointed out
by those on board. In consequence of a heavy swell, they could not
succeed in finding the proper course, and every possible means of
saving the poor fellow would have failed, had not Providence enabled
him to float, until the boat was at last brought to his side, when
they picked him up at about three hundred yards from the vessel, into
which he was hauled in a state of complete exhaustion from fatigue and
terror, after being more than twenty minutes in the water.
The nights in those latitudes were truly splendid, the brightness and
clear silvery light of the moon, (now in the full), far outshining the
usual appearance of that luminary in the temperate zone. The weather
continued delightful, and for many days the sails remained unchanged,
the seaman's life being almost a sinecure.
Protected from the intense heat, by the shade which the awnings
afforded, our proceedings, whether for amusement or otherwise, were
all conducted on the deck. The soldiers, sailors, and women, assembled
there after sunset, as well as on the gangways, in order that they
might, during the cool refreshing hours, have a little bit of sport in
the way of dancing. Reels and hornpipes were the most prevailing
favourites, and, to the music of a fife and bag-pipes, they tripped it
on the plank with no small degree of spirit. In these the Scottish
lasses displayed a very good share of cleverness, and it was quite
amusing to behold with what vanity as well as delight not a few of
these merry Northerns footed it away, with all their heart and soul,
untiring and untired, to the tune of the Cameronian Rant. The tars
enjoyed the fun, and seemed completely in their element while figuring
off in the passeul, or reeling it with the ladies. One of these
damsels, in particular, a comely and laughter-loving wench, from the
banks of the Clyde, known by the appellation of Dumbarton Mary, was in
truth the picture of good humour. With rosy cheeks, and a brace of
dark eyes, she had rather an interesting appearance, when in her
tartan dress, and with stockingless feet, she gave them a specimen of
the Highland fling.
Singing was also going forward, not only on the forecastle but on the
poop, where our worthy medico had a knot of pleasant fellows seated
round him, listening to the ditties by which he entertained them. Long
yarns were spun, and every thing was put in requisition, so that the
night was pretty well curtailed, when unwillingly each withdrew to
dream of the day's adventure.
To celebrate the invasion of Father Neptune's empire, or, in common
parlance, crossing the Line, preparations were actively made on all
hands, and the usual as well as oft repeated ceremony was duly
performed. This ridiculous mummery began at an early hour, and
continued, with its noises, uproar, and buffoonery, to a late period
of the day; drunkenness and excessive rioting reigned throughout the
vessel;--sailors and soldiers were in one general state of disorder
and intoxication. The custom, though of long standing, appears to have
no other tendency than that of producing tumult and confusion amongst
the crew, and is one of those absurdities that ought long ago to have
been abolished.
In consequence of these unmeaning and dangerous proceedings, a private
of the Royal Artillery, named Wailey, was found dead in his berth, on
the following morning. Upon examination of his body by the Surgeon, it
appeared that the unfortunate man drank to such excess of strong rum,
that, having lain down and covered himself, he soon got suffocated,
from the powerful effects of the liquor. He afforded an unhappy
instance of the fatal consequences of intemperance, as well as of the
evil that arises from that abominable practice to which he prematurely
fell a victim.
On the 3rd of January, 1821, after being thirty six days at sea,
intelligence of _land in sight_ was joyfully heard by all on board,
and towards noon, the small Island of Deseada, in the Caribbean Sea,
was plainly discernible on our larboard quarter, bearing W.S.W., and
distant about twenty five miles. Every one arose and got on deck as
quick as possible, in order to feast their eyes upon this most
agreeable and welcome prospect. Directly ahead further appearances of
land presented themselves, and Guadaloupe soon became distinct; the
lofty mountain of La Souffriere rising abruptly above the foreground,
the nearest point of which was not more than four miles off.
In the course of the forenoon we came in sight of His Majesty's
Frigate, Tribune, Captain Willoughby, which had been for some months
cruizing about in this latitude. Our gallant ship bore up for the
frigate, which had made a previous signal for that purpose, and on
arriving close the troops and seamen gave her three hearty cheers. The
tars who manned the yards of the Tribune returned the salute by a peal
of loud huzzas, while their band, at the same time, in most excellent
style played "Rule Britannia."
Our sails were filled, and once more steering on our course, the
frigate bore away in a superior manner, giving us as we parted, "The
girl I left behind me."
From the 8th to the 10th we lay becalmed off Cape Tiberon, the
south-east point of St. Domingo, and on the evening of the latter day
a fine breeze springing up, we made so good a run in the night time,
as to bring up our loss, and, as we went at the rate of from eight to
nine knots, St. Domingo was far astern by day light.
At a very early hour we were hailed by the cry of land in sight, and
presently the Blue Mountains of Jamaica were distinctly visible on the
lee bow. Rejoiced at these good tidings we continued on the deck,
anxiously looking out, with the hope of being safely moored in the
course of the evening; these hopes were fortunately realized, for the
wind being steady, and blowing in our favour, we soon gained the east
end of the island.
About ten A.M. we arrived off Port Morant, and, scudding along under
all the canvass we could carry, cleared Yellah's point by two o'clock.
Nothing could be finer than the appearance of the island. As we closed
in towards the coast the most splendid and romantic scenery opened to
the eye, as we passed each headland, while the rich and varied
country, bordering on the mountains, enlivened by the luxuriant cane
fields, together with innumerable trees and wide plantations, formed
on the whole a prospect of exceeding beauty.
By five P.M. we made Port Royal, and soon after dropped anchor in the
harbour.
The Pilot we had taken on board was now to his very great joy
discharged. He had no great relish for the blowing he had got, and
seemed miserable while he was in the chilly regions of our vessel. All
the time that we were panting and puffing from the heat, and trying to
get into every hole and corner from the sun, our sable commodore said
"it was berry cold day", and shivering in every limb, like a navigator
at the pole, crouched in from a breeze that felt as though it were
coming from a furnace. When blacky first put his foot upon the gangway
he looked about him with an air of some authority, and standing by the
helm assumed no little consequence.
It was nearly sunset when the anchor was let go, which operation was
no sooner performed than some boats came along side, bearing certain
officials, who in their exercise of pretended duty, or curiosity,
commenced prying about with rather an important air; among them were
idlers and loungers not a few, who, with the usual preface of "I hope
I don't intrude", began rummaging all about the ship, poking into
every hole and corner for stale newspapers, old magazines, or any
other chance provender for their inquisitive appetites. Nothing
escaped the notice of those gentry, who with open mouthed avidity
poured forth a whole volley of questions, about affairs in general, in
that country from whence we came. Having fully satisfied their minds
that there was no more to be explored, the intermeddlers vanished,
previously helping themselves quite coolly to any little matters that
were thrown about, of course of no use in the world to the late
owners. By this time there was scarcely any twilight, darkness
suddenly coming over the face of every object, while at the same time
impenetrable mist overspread the wide and placid harbour; as there was
not the slightest breath of wind, the land breeze not yet being felt,
a most oppressive heat and closeness produced on the new comers a
suffocating effect, that made them not in the least desirous of
resuming their berths below.