Barrie (a riueret that falleth into the Sauerne sea) called Barrie,
which hath a rift or clift next the first shore; wherevnto if a man doo
laie his eare, he shall heare such noises as are commonlie made in
smiths forges, to wit, clinking of iron barres, beating with hammers,
blowing of bellowses, and such like: whereof the superstitious sort doo
gather manie toies, as the gentiles did in old time of their lame god
Vulcans pot. The riuer that runneth by Chester changeth hir chanell
euerie moneth: the cause whereof as yet I can not learne; neither dooth
it swell by force of anie land-floud, but by some vehement wind it oft
ouer-runneth hir banks. In Snowdonie are two lakes, whereof one beareth
a moouable Iland, which is carried to and fro as the wind bloweth. The
other hath thrée kinds of fishes in it, as éeles, trowts, and perches:
but herein resteth the woonder, that all those haue but one eie a péece
onelie, and the same situate in the right side of their heads. And this
I find to be confirmed also by authors: There is a well in the forrest
of Gnaresborow, whereof the said forrest dooth take the name; which
water, beside that it is cold as Stix, in a certeine period of time
knowne, conuerteth wood, flesh, leaues of trées, and mosse into hard
stone, without alteration or changing of shape. The like also is séene
there in frogs, wormes, and such like liuing creatures as fall into the
same, and find no readie issue. Of this spring also Leland writeth thus;
A little aboue March (but at the further banke of Nide riuer as I came)
I saw a well of wonderfull nature called Dropping well, because the
water thereof distilleth out of great rockes hard by into it
continuallie, which is so cold, and thereto of such nature, that what
thing soeuer falleth out of those rocks into this pit, or groweth néere
thereto, or be cast into it by mans hand, it turneth into stone. It may
be (saith he) that some sand or other fine ground issueth out with this
water from these hard rocks, which cleauing vnto those things, giueth
them in time the forme of stones &c. Néere vnto the place where Winburne
monasterie sometimes stood, also not farre from Bath there is a faire
wood, whereof if you take anie péece, and pitch it into the ground
thereabouts, or throw it into the water, within twelue moneths it will
turne into hard stone. In part of the hilles east southeast of
Alderleie, a mile from Kingswood, are stones dailie found, perfectlie
fashioned like cockles and mightie oisters, which some dreame haue lien
there euer since the floud. In the clifts betwéene the Blacke head and
Trewardeth baie in Cornwall, is a certeine caue, where things appeare
like images guilded, on the sides of the same, which I take to be
nothing but the shining of the bright ore of coppar and other mettals
readie at hand to be found there, if anie diligence were vsed. Howbeit,
because it is much maruelled at as a rare thing, I doo not thinke it to
be vnméet to be placed amongst our woonders. Maister Guise had of late,
and still hath (for aught that I know) a manor in Glocestershire, where
certeine okes doo grow, whose rootes are verie hard stone. And beside
this, the ground is so fertile there (as they saie) that if a man hew a
stake of anie wood, and pitch it into the earth, it will grow and take
rooting beyond all expectation. Siluecester towne also is said to
conteine fourescore acres of land within the walles, whereof some is
corne-ground (as Leland saith) and the graine which is growing therein
dooth come to verie good perfection till it be readie to be cut downe:
but euen then, or about that time it vanisheth away & becommeth
altogither vnprofitable. Is it any woonder (thinke you) to tell of
sundrie caues néere to Browham, on the west side of the riuer Aimote,
wherein are halles, chambers, and all offices of houshold cut out of the
hard rocke? If it be, then may we increase the number of maruels verie
much by a rehearsall of other also. For we haue manie of the like, as
one néere saint Assaphs vpon the banke of Elwie, and about the head of
Vendrath Vehan in Wales, whereinto men haue often entred and walked, and
yet found nothing but large roomes, and sandie ground vnder their féet,
and other else-where. But sith these things are not strange, I let them
alone, and go forward with the rest.
In the parish of Landsarnam in Wales, and in the side of a stonie hill,
is a place wherein are foure and twentie seats hewen out of the hard
rockes; but who did cut them, and to what end, as yet it is not learned.
As for the huge stone that lieth at Pember in Guitherie parish, and of
the notable carcasse that is affirmed to lie vnder the same, there is no
cause to touch it here: yet were it well doone to haue it remoued,
though it were but onlie to sée what it is, which the people haue in so
great estimation & reuerence. There is also a poole in Logh Taw, among
the blacke mounteins in Brecknockshire, where (as is said) is the head
of Taw that commeth to Swanseie, which hath such a propertie, that it
will bréed no fish at all, & if anie be cast into it, they die without
recouerie: but this peraduenture may grow throgh the accidentall
corruption of the water, rather than the naturall force of the element
it selfe. There is also a lin in Wales, which in the one side beareth
trowts so red as samons, and in the other, which is the westerlie side,
verie white and delicate. I heare also of two welles not far from
Landien, which stand verie néere togither, and yet are of such
diuersitie of nature, that the one beareth sope, and is a maruellous
fine water; the other altogither of contrarie qualities. Which is not a
litle to be mused at, considering (I saie) that they participate of one
soile, and rise so nigh one to another. I haue notice giuen me moreouer
of a stone not farre from saint Dauids, which is verie great, as a bed,
or such like thing: and being raised vp, a man may stirre it with his
thumbe; but not with his shoulder or force of his whole bodie.
There is a well not farre from stonie Stratford, which conuerteth manie
things into stone; and an other in Wales, which is said to double or
triple the force of anie edge toole that is quenched in the same. In
Tegenia, a parcell of Wales, there is a noble well (I meane in the
parish of Kilken) which is of maruellous nature, and much like to
another well at Seuill in Spaine: for although it be six miles from the
sea, it ebbeth and floweth twise in one daie; alwaies ebbing when the
sea dooth vse to flow, and in flowing likewise when the sea dooth vse to
ebbe; wherof some doo fable, that this well is ladie and mistresse of
the ocean. Not farre from thence also is a medicinable spring called
Schinant of old time, but now Wenefrides well, in the edges whereof
dooth breed a verie odoriferous and delectable mosse, wherewith the head
of the smeller is maruellouslie refreshed. Other welles and
water-courses we haue likewise, which at some times burst out into huge
streames, though at other seasons they run but verie softlie, whereby
the people gather some alteration of estate to be at hand. And such a
one there is at Henleie, & an other at Croidon; & such a one also in the
golden dale beside Anderne in Picardie, whereof the common sort imagine
manie things. Some of the greater sort also giue ouer to run at all in
such times, wherof they conceiue the like opinion. And of the same
nature, though of no great quantitie, is a pit or well at Langleie parke
in Kent, whereof (by good hap) it was my lucke to read a notable
historie in an ancient chronicle that I saw of late. What the foolish
people dreame of the hell Kettles, it is not worthie the rehearsall; yet
to the end the lewd opinion conceiued of them may grow into contempt, I
will saie thus much also of those pits. There are certeine pits, or
rather three little pooles, a mile from Darlington, and a quarter of a
mile distant from the These banks which the people call the Kettles of
hell, or the diuels Kettles, as if he should séeth soules of sinfull men
and women in them. They adde also, that the spirits haue oft beene heard
to crie and yell about them, with other like talke sauoring altogether
of pagan infidelitie. The truth is, and of this opinion also was Cutbert
Tunstall late bishop of Durham, a man (notwithstanding the basenesse of
his birth, being begotten by one Tunstall vpon a daughter of the house
of the Commers, as Leland saith) of great learning and iudgement, that
the cole-mines in those places are kindled, or if there be no coles,
there may a mine of some other vnctuous matter be set on fire, which
being here and there consumed, the earth falleth in, and so dooth leaue
a pit. Indéed the water is now and then warme (as they saie) and beside
that it is not cléere: the people suppose them to be an hundred fadam
déepe. The biggest of them also hath an issue into the These, as
experience hath confirmed. For doctor Bellowes aliàs Belzis made report,
how a ducke marked after the fashion of the duckes of the bishoprike of
Durham, was put into the same betwixt Darlington and These banke, and
afterward séene at a bridge not farre from master Clereuax house. If it
were woorth the noting, I would also make relation of manie wooden
crosses found verie often about Halidon, whereof the old inhabitants
conceiued an opinion that they were fallen from heauen; whereas in
truth, they were made and borne by king Oswald; and his men in the
battell wherein they preuailed sometimes against the British infidels,
vpon a superstitious imagination, that those crosses should be their
defense and shield against their aduersaries. Beda calleth the place
where the said field was fought, Heauen field; it lieth not far from the
Pictish wall, and the famous monasterie of Hagulstad. But more of this
elsewhere. Neither will I speak of the little hillets séene in manie
places of our Ile, whereof though the vnskilfull people babble manie
things: yet are they nothing else but Tumuli or graues of former times,
as appeareth by such tooms & carcasses as be daily found in the same,
when they be digged downe. The like fond imagination haue they of a kind
of lunarie, which is to be found in manie places, although not so well
knowen by the forme vnto them, as by the effect thereof, because it now
and then openeth the lockes hanging on the horses féet as hit vpon it
where it groweth in their féeding. Roger Bacon our countrieman noteth it
to grow plentiouslie in Tuthill fields about London. I haue heard of it
to be within compasse of the parish where I dwell, and doo take it for
none other than the Sfera Cauallo, whereof Mathiolus and the herbarists
doo write, albeit that it hath not béene my lucke at anie time to behold
it. Plinie calleth it Aethiopis: and Aelianus, Oppianus, Kyramis, and
Trebius haue written manie superstitious things thereof, but especiallie
our Chymists, who make it of farre more vertue than our smiths doo their
ferne séed, whereof they babble manie woonders, and prate of such
effects as may well be performed indéed when the ferne beareth séed,
which is commonly Ad calendas Græcas, for before it will not be found.
But to procéed. There is a well in Darbieshire called Tideswell (so
named of the word tide, or to ebbe and flow) whose water often séemeth
to rise and fall, as the sea which is fortie miles from it dooth
vsuallie accustome to ebbe and flow. And hereof an opinion is growen
that it kéepeth an ordinarie course as the sea dooth. Howbeit, sith
diuerse are knowne to haue watched the same, it may be that at sometimes
it riseth, but not continuallie; and that it so dooth I am fullie
persuaded to beléeue. But euen inough of the woonders of our countrie,
least I doo seeme by talking longer of them, woonderouslie to ouershoot
my selfe, and forget how much dooth rest behind of the description of my
countrie. As for those that are to be touched of Scotland, the
description of that part shall in some part remember them.
* * * * *
THE
CONTENTS OF THE SECOND BOOKE.
1 _Of the ancient and present estate of the church of England._
2 _Of the number of bishoprikes and their seuerall circuits._
3 _Of vniuersities._
4 _Of the partition of England into shires and counties._
5 _Of degrees of people in the commonwealth of England._
6 _Of the food and diet of the English._
7 _Of their apparell and attire._
8 _Of the high court of parlement & authoritie of the same._
9 _Of the lawes of England since hir first inhabitation._
10 _Of prouision made for the poore._
11 _Of sundrie kinds of punishment appointed for malefactors._
12 _Of the maner of building and furniture of our houses._
13 _Of cities and townes in England._
14 _Of castels and holds._
15 _Of palaces belonging to the prince._
16 _Of armour and munition._
17 _Of the nauie of England._
18 _Of faires and markets._
19 _Of parkes and warrens._
20 _Of gardens and orchards._
21 _Of waters generallie._
22 _Of woods and marishes._
23 _Of baths and hot welles._
24 _Of antiquities found._
25 _Of the coines of England._
OF THE ANCIENT AND PRESENT ESTATE OF THE CHURCH OF ENGLAND.
CHAP. I.
There are now two prouinces onelie in England, of which the first and
greatest is subiect to the sée of Canturburie, comprehending a parte of
Lhoegres, whole Cambria, & also Ireland, which in time past were
seuerall, & brought into one by the archbishop of the said sée &
assistance of the pope; who in respect of méed, did yéeld vnto the
ambitious desires of sundrie archbishops of Canturburie, as I haue
elsewhere declared. The second prouince is vnder the sée of Yorke, and
of these; either hath hir archbishop resident commonlie within hir owne
limits, who hath not onelie the cheefe dealing in matters apperteining
to the hierarchie and iurisdiction of the church; but also great
authoritie in ciuill affaires touching the gouernement of the common
wealth: so far foorth as their commissions and seuerall circuits doo
extend.
In old time there were thrée archbishops, and so manie prouinces in
this Ile; of which one kept at London, another at Yorke, and the third
at Caerlheon vpon Uske. But as that of London was translated to
Canturburie by Augustine, and that of Yorke remaineth (notwithstanding
that the greatest part of his iurisdiction is now bereft him and giuen
to the Scotish archbishop) so that of Caerlheon is vtterlie
extinguished, and the gouernement of the countrie vnited to that of
Canturburie in spirituall cases: after it was once before remoued to S.
Dauids in Wales by Dauid successor to Dubritius, and vncle to king
Arthur, in the 519 of Grace, to the end that he and his clearkes might
be further off from the crueltie of the Saxons, where it remained till
the time of the Bastard, and for a season after, before it was annexed
vnto the sée of Canturburie.
The archbishop of Canturburie is commonlie called primat of all
England; and in the coronations of the kings of this land, and all
other times, wherein it shall please the prince to weare and put on
his crowne, his office is to set it vpon their heads. They beare also
the name of their high chapleins continuallie, although not a few of
them haue presumed (in time past) to be their equals, and void of
subiection vnto them. That this is true, it may easilie appéere by
their owne acts yet kept in record; beside their epistles & answers
written or in print; wherein they haue sought not onelie to match but
also to mate them with great rigor and more than open tyrannie. Our
aduersaries will peraduenture denie this absolutelie, as they doo
manie other things apparant, though not without shamelesse impudencie,
or at the leastwise defend it as iust and not swaruing from common
equitie; bicause they imagine euerie archbishop to be the kings equall
in his owne prouince. But how well their dooing herein agreeth with
the saieng of Peter, & examples of the primitiue church, it may
easilie appéere. Some examples also of their demeanor (I meane in the
time of poperie) I will not let to remember, least they should saie I
speake of malice, and without all ground of likelihood.
Of their practises with meane persons I speake not, neither will I
begin at Dunstane the author of all their pride and presumption here
in England. But for somuch as the dealing of Robert the Norman against
earle Goodwine is a rare historie, and deserueth to be remembred, I
will touch it in this place; protesting to deale withall in more
faithfull maner than it hath heretofore beene deliuered vnto vs by the
Norman writers, or French English, who (of set purpose) haue so
defaced earle Goodwine, that were it not for the testimonie of one or
two méere Englishmen liuing in those daies, it should be impossible
for me (or anie other) at this present to declare the truth of that
matter according to hir circumstances. Marke therefore what I saie.
For the truth is, that such Normans as came in with Emma in the time
of Ethelred, and Canutus, and the Confessor, did fall by sundrie means
into such fauor with those princes, that the gentlemen did grow to
beare great rule in the court, and their clearkes to be possessors of
the best benefices in the land. Hervpon therefore one Robert, a iolie
ambitious préest, gat first to be bishop of London, and after the
death of Eadsius, to be archbishop of Canturburie by the gift of king
Edward; leauing his former sée to William his countrieman. Ulfo also a
Norman was preferred to Lincolne, and other to other places, as the
king did thinke conuenient.
These Norman clerkes, and their freends, being thus exalted, it was
not long yer they began to mocke, abuse, and despise the English: and
so much the more, as they dailie saw themselues to increase in fauour
with king Edward, who also called diuerse of them to be of his secret
councell, which did not a litle incense the harts of the English
against them. A fraie also was made at Douer, betwéene the seruants of
earle Goodwine and the French, whose maisters came ouer to see and
salute the king: whereof I haue spoken in my Chronologie, which so
inflamed the minds of the French cleargie and courtiers against the
English nobilitie, that each part sought for opportunitie of reuenge,
which yer long tooke hold betwéene them. For the said Robert, being
called to be archbishop of Canturburie, was no sooner in possession of
his sée, than he began to quarrell with earle Goodwine (the kings
father in law by the mariage of his daughter) who also was readie to
acquit his demeanor with like malice; and so the mischiefe begun.
Herevpon therefore the archbishop charged the earle with the murther
of Alfred the kings brother, whom not he but Harald the sonne of
Canutus and the Danes had cruellie made awaie. For Alfred and his
brother comming into the land with fiue and twentie saile, vpon the
death of Canutus, and being landed; the Normans that arriued with them
giuing out how they came to recouer their right, to wit, the crowne of
England; & therevnto the vnskilfull yoong gentlemen, shewing
themselues to like of the rumour that was spred in this behalfe, the
report of their demeanor was quicklie brought to Harald, who caused a
companie foorthwith of Danes priuilie to laie wait for them, as they
roade toward Gilford, where Alfred was slaine, and whence Edward with
much difficultie escaped to his ships, and so returned into Normandie.
But to proceed. This affirmation of the archbishop being greatlie
soothed out with his craftie vtterance (for he was lerned) confirmed
by his French fréends, (for they had all conspired against the erle)
and therevnto the king being desirous to reuenge the death of his
brother, bred such a grudge in his mind against Goodwine, that he
banished him and his sons cleane out of the land. He sent also his
wife the erles daughter prisoner to Wilton, with one onelie maiden
attending vpon hir, where she laie almost a yeare before she was
released. In the meane season, the rest of the peeres, as Siward earle
of Northumberland surnamed Digara or Fortis, Leofrijc earle of
Chester, and other went to the king, before the departure of Goodwine,
indeuouring to persuade him vnto the reuocation of his sentence; and
desiring that his cause might be heard and discussed by order of law.
But the king incensed by the archbishop and his Normans would not
heare on that side, saieng plainelie, and swearing by saint Iohn the
euangelist (for that was his common oth) that earle Goodwine should
not haue his peace till he restored his brother Alfred aliue againe
vnto his presence. With which answer the peeres departed in choler
from the court, and Goodwine toward the coast.
Comming also vnto the shore and readie to take shipping, he knéeled
downe in presence of his conduct (to wit at Bosenham in the moneth of
September, from whence he intended to saile into Flanders vnto
Baldwine the earle) and there praied openlie before them all, that if
euer he attempted anie thing against the kings person of England, or
his roiall estate, that he might neuer come safe vnto his cousine, nor
sée his countrie any more, but perish in this voiage. And herewith he
went aboord the ship that was prouided for him, and so from the coast
into the open sea. But sée what followed. He was not yet gone a mile
waie from the land, before he saw the shore full of armed souldiers,
sent after by the archbishop and his freends to kill him yer he should
depart and go out of the countrie: which yet more incensed the harts
of the English against them.
Being come also to Flanders, he caused the earle, the French king, and
other of his fréends, among whome also the emperour was one, to write
vnto the king in his behalfe; but all in vaine: for nothing could be
obteined from him, of which the Normans had no liking, wherevpon the
earle and his sonnes changed their minds, obteined aid, and inuaded
the land in sundry places. Finallie ioining their powers they came by
the Thames into Southwarke néere London where they lodged, and looked
for the king to incounter with them in the field. The king séeing what
was doone, commanded the Londoners not to aid nor vittell them. But
the citizens made answer, how the quarrell of Goodwine was the cause
of the whole realme, which he had in maner giuen ouer vnto the spoile
of the French: and therevpon they not onelie vittelled them
aboundantlie, but also receiued the earle and his chiefe fréends into
the citie, where they lodged them at their ease, till the kings power
was readie to ioine with them in battell.
Great resort also was made vnto them from all places of the realme, so
that the earles armie was woonderfullie increased, and the daie and
place chosen wherein the battell should be fought. But when the armies
met, the kings side began some to flée to the earle, other to laie
downe their weapons, and not a few to run awaie out right; the rest
telling him plainelie that they would neuer fight against their owne
countriemen, to mainteine Frenchmens quarrels. The Normans also seeing
the sequele, fled awaie so fast as they might gallop, leauing the king
in the field to shift for himselfe (as he best might) whilest they did
saue themselues elsewhere.
In the meane season the earles power would haue set vpon the king,
either to his slaughter, or apprehension; but he staied them, saieng
after this maner: The king is my sonne (as you all know) and it is not
for a father to deale so hardlie with his child, neither a subiect
with his souereigne; it is not he that hath hurt or doone me this
iniurie, but the proud Normans that are about him: wherfore to gaine a
kingdome, I will doo him no violence. And therewithall casting aside
his battell ax he ran to the king, that stood altogither amazed, and
falling at his féet he craued his peace, accused the archbishop,
required that his cause might be heard in open assemblie of his
péeres; and finallie determined as truth and equitie should deserue.
The king (after he had paused a pretie while) seeing his old father in
law to lie groueling at his féet, and conceiuing with himselfe that
his sute was not vnreasonable; seeing also his children, and the rest
of the greatest barons of the land to knéele before him, and make the
like request: he lifted vp the earle by the hand, bad him be of good
comfort, pardoned all that was past, and freendlie hauing kissed him
and his sonnes vpon the chéekes, he lead them to his palace, called
home the quéene, and summoned all his lords vnto a councell.
Wherein it is much to read, how manie billes were presented against
the bishop & his Normans; some conteining matter of rape, other of
robberie, extortion, murder, manslaughter, high treason, adulterie;
and not a few of batterie. Wherwith the king (as a man now awaked out
of sléepe) was so offended, that vpon consultation had of these
things, he banished all the Normans out of the land, onelie thrée or
foure excepted, whome he reteined for sundrie necessarie causes,
albeit they came neuer more so néere him afterward as to be of his
priuie councell.
After this also the earle liued almost two yeares, and then falling
into an apoplexie, as he sat with the king at the table, he was taken
vp and carried into the kings bedchamber, where (after a few daies) he
made an end of his life. And thus much of our first broile raised by
the cleargie, and practise of the archbishop. I would intreat of all
the like examples of tyrannie, practised by the prelats of this sée,
against their lords and souereignes: but then I should rather write an
historie than a description of this Iland.
[Sidenote: Anselme.]
Wherefore I refer you to those reports of Anselme and Becket,
sufficientlie penned by other, the which Anselme also making a shew,
as if he had bin verie vnwilling to be placed in the sée of
Canturburie, gaue this answer to the letters of such his fréends, as
did make request vnto him to take the charge vpon him. "Secularia
negotia nescio, quia scire nolo, eorum námque occupationes horreo,
liberum affectans animum. Voluntati sacrarum intendo scripturarum, vos
dissonantiam facitis, verendúmque est nè aratrum sanctæ ecclesiæ, quod
in Anglia duo boues validi & pari fortitudine, ad bonum certantes, id
est rex & archiepiscopus, debeant trahere, nunc oue vetula cum tauro
indomito iugata, distorqueatur à recto. Ego ouis vetula, qui si
quietus essem, verbi Dei lacte, & operimento lanæ, aliquibus possem
fortassis non ingratus esse, sed si me cum hoc tauro coniungitis,
videbitis pro disparilitate trahentium, aratrum non rectè procedere,
&c." Which is in English thus: Of secular affaires I haue no skill,
bicause I will not know them, for I euen abhor the troubles that rise
about them, as one that desireth to haue his mind at libertie. I
applie my whole indeuor to the rule of the scriptures, you lead me to
the contrarie. And it is to be feared least the plough of holie
church, which two strong oxen of equall force, and both like earnest
to contend vnto that which is good (that is the king and the
archbishop) ought to draw, should thereby now swarue from the right
forrow, by matching of an old shéepe with a wild vntamed bull. I am
that old shéepe, who if I might be quiet, could peraduenture shew my
selfe not altogither vngratfull to some, by féeding them with the
milke of the word of God, and couering them with wooll: but if you
match me with this bull, you shall sée that thorough want of equalitie
in draught the plough will not go to right, &c: as foloweth in the
[Sidenote: Thomas Becket.]
processe of his letters. The said Thomas Becket was so proud, that he
wrote to king Henrie the second, as to his lord, to his king, and to
his sonne, offering him his counsell, his reuerence, and due
correction, &c. Others in like sort haue protested, that they owght
nothing to the kings of this land, but their counsell onelie,
reseruing all obedience vnto the sée of Rome.