aboue Colingburne Kingston in the hils, and thence it goeth to
Colingburne, the Tidworths (whereof the more southerlie is in Wiltshire)
Shipton, Cholterton, Newton, Toneie, Idmerson, Porton, the Winterburns,
Lauerstocke, and so into Auon east of Salisburie. And thus is the
confluence made of the aforesaid waters, with this our second Auon,
[Sidenote: Becquith brooke.]
whereinto another water falleth (called Becquithes brooke) a mile
beneath Harneham bridge, whose head is fiue miles from Sarum, and thrée
miles aboue Becquithes bridge, as Leland doth remember, who noteth the
[Sidenote: Chalkeburne.]
Chalkeburne water to haue his due recourse also at this place into the
aforesaid riuer. Certes it is a pretie brooke, and riseth six miles from
Shaftesburie, and in the waie toward Salisburie in a bottome on the
right hand, whence it commeth by Knighton and Fennistratford, to
Honington, that is about twelue miles from the head, and about two miles
and an halfe from Honington beneath Odstocke, goeth into the Auon, a
mile lower than Harnham bridge, except he forget himselfe. This Harnham,
whereof I now intreat, was sometime a pretie village before the erection
of new Salisburie, and had a church of S. Martine belonging vnto it, but
now in stéed of this church, there is onelie a barne standing in a verie
low mead on the northside of S. Michaels hospitall. The cause of the
relinquishing of it was the moistnesse of the soile, verie oft
ouerflowne. And whereas the kings high waie laie sometime through
Wilton, licence was obteined of the king and Richard bishop of
Salisburie, to remooue that passage vnto new Salisburie in like maner,
and vpon this occasion was the maine bridge made ouer Auon at Harneham.
[Sidenote: Thrée towns decaied by changing one waie.]
By this exchange of the waie also old Salisburie fell into vtter decaie,
& Wilton which was before the head towne of the shire, and furnished
with twelue parish churches, grew to be but a poore village, and of
small reputation. Howbeit, this was not the onelie cause of the ruine of
old Salisburie, sith I read of two other, whereof the first was a salue
vnto the latter, as I take it. For whereas it was giuen out, that the
townesmen wanted water in old Salisburie, it is flat otherwise; sith
that hill is verie plentifullie serued with springs and wels of verie
swéet water. The truth of the matter therefore is this.
[Sidenote: An holie conflict.]
In the time of ciuill warres, the souldiors of the castell and chanons
of old Sarum fell at ods, insomuch that after often bralles, they fell
at last to sad blowes. It happened therefore in a rogation weeke that
the cleargie going in solemne procession, a controuersie fell betwéene
them about certeine walkes and limits, which the one side claimed and
the other denied. Such also was the hot intertainment on ech part, that
at the last the Castellanes espieng their time, gate betwéene the
cleargie and the towne, and so coiled them as they returned homeward,
that they feared anie more to gang about their bounds for the yeare.
Héerevpon the people missing their bellie cheare (for they were woont to
haue banketing at euerie station, a thing commonlie practised by the
religious in old time, wherewith to linke in the commons vnto them, whom
anie man may lead whither he will by the bellie, or as Latimer said,
with beefe, bread and beere) they conceiued foorthwith a deadlie hatred
against the Castellans. But not being able to cope with them by force of
armes, they consulted with Richard Pore their bishop, and he with them
so effectuallie, that it was not long yer they, I meane the chanons,
began a new church vpon a péece of their owne ground called Mirifield,
pretending to serue God there in better safetie, and with far more
[Sidenote: New Salisburie begun.]
quietnesse than they could doo before. This church was begun 1219, the
nine and twentith of Aprill, and finished with the expenses of 42000
marks, in the yeare 1260, and fiue & twentith of March, whereby it
appeereth that it was aboue fortie yéers in hand, although the clearks
were translated to the new towne 1220, or the third yeere after the
fraie. The people also séeing the diligence of the chanons, and reputing
their harmes for their owne inconuenience, were as earnest on the other
side to be néere vnto these prelats, and therefore euerie man brought
his house vnto that place, & thus became old Sarum in few yeeres
vtterlie desolate, and new Salisburie raised vp in stéed thereof, to the
great decaie also of Harnham and Wilton, whereof I spake of late.
Neuerthelesse it should séeme to me that this new citie is not
altogither void of some great hinderances now and then by water: for in
the second of Edward the second (who held a parlement there) there was a
sudden thaw after a great frost, which caused the waters so fast to
arise, that euen at high masse time the water came into the minster, and
not onelie ouerflowed the nether part of the same, but came vp all to
the kings pauase where he sate, whereby he became wetshod, and in the
end inforced to leaue the church, as the executour did his masse, least
they should all haue béene drowned: and this rage indured there for the
space of two daies, wherevpon no seruice could be said in the said
minster.
Now to returne againe from whence I thus digressed. Our Auon therefore
departing from Salisburie, goeth by Burtford, Longford, and taking in
the waters afore mentioned by the waie, it goeth by Stanleie, Dunketon,
Craiford, Burgate, Fording bridge, Ringwood, Auon, Christes church; and
finallie into the sea. But yer it come all there & a litle beneth
[Sidenote: Sturus.]
Christes church, it crosseth the Stoure or Sture, a verie faire streame,
whose course is such as may not be left vntouched. It riseth of six
heads, whereof thrée lie on the north side of the parke at Sturton
within the pale, the other rise without the parke; & of this riuer the
towne and baronie of Sturton dooth take his name as I gesse, for except
my memorie do too much faile me, the lord Sturton giueth the six heads
of the said water in his armes. But to procéed. After these branches are
conioined in one bottome, it goeth to long Laime mill, Stilton, Milton,
and beneath Gillingham receiueth a water that descendeth from Mere.
Thence the Sture goeth to Bugleie, Stoure, Westouer bridge, Stoure
[Sidenote: Cale.]
prouost, and yer long it taketh in the Cale water, from Pen that commeth
downe by Wickhampton to Moreland, & so to Stapleford, seuen miles from
Wickhampton, passing in the said voiage, by Wine Caunton, and the fiue
bridges. After this confluence, it runneth to Hinton Maries, and soone
[Sidenote: Lidden.]
[Sidenote: Deuilis.]
after crosseth the Lidden and Deuilis waters all in one chanell, whereof
the first riseth in Blackemore vale, and goeth to the bishops Caundell:
the second in the hils south of Pulham, and so runneth to Lidlinch; the
[Sidenote: Iber.]
third water issueth néere Ibberton, and going by Fifehed to Lidlington,
[Sidenote: Blackewater.]
and there méeting with the Lidden, they receiue the Blackewater aboue
Bagburne, and so go into the Stoure.
After this the Stoure runneth on to Stoureton minster, Fitleford,
Hammond, and soone after taking in one water that commeth from Hargraue
by west Orchard, and a second from Funtmill, it goeth on to Chele,
Ankeford, Handford, Durweston, Knighton, Brainston, Blandford,
Charleton: and crossing yer long a rill that riseth about Tarrent, and
goeth to Launston, Munketon, Caunston, Tarrant, it proceedeth foorth by
Shepwijc, and by and by receiuing another brooke on the right hand, that
riseth about Strictland, and goeth by Quarleston, Whitchurch, Anderston,
and Winterburne, it hasteth forward to Stoureminster, Berford lake, Alen
bridge, Winburne, aliàs Twinburne minster, whither commeth a water
called Alen (from Knolton, Wikehampton, Estambridge, Hinton, Barnsleie)
which hath two heads, whereof one riseth short of Woodcotes, and east of
Farneham, named Terig, the other at Munketon aboue S. Giles Winburne,
and going thence to S. Giles Ashleie, it taketh in the Horton becke, as
the Horton dooth the Cranburne. Finallie, meeting with the Terig aboue
Knolton, they run on vnder the name of Alen to the Stoure, which goeth
to the Canfords, Preston, Kingston, Perleie, and Yolnest: but yer it
[Sidenote: This Stoure aboundeth with pike, perch, roch,
dace, gudgeon and éeles.]
come at Yolnest it taketh in two brookes in one bottome, whereof one
commeth from Woodland parke by Holt parke, and Holt, another from aboue
vpper Winburne, by Edmondesham, Vertwood, and Mannington, and ioining
about S. Leonards, they go to Hornebridge, and so into Stoure. After
which confluence, the said Stoure runneth by Iuor bridge, and so into
Auon, leauing Christs church aboue the méeting of the said waters (as I
haue said before.)
[Sidenote: Burne.]
Hauing in this maner passed Christes church head we come to the fall of
the Burne, which is a little brooke running from Stourefield heath,
without branches; from whence we proceeded: & the next fall that we come
[Sidenote: Poole.]
vnto is Poole, from whose mouth vpon the shore, by southwest in a baie
of thrée miles off, is a poore fisher towne called Sandwich, where we
saw a péere and a little fresh brooke. The verie vtter part of saint
Adelmes point, is fiue miles from Sandwich. In another baie lieth west
Lilleworth, where (as I heare) is some profitable harborough for ships.
The towne of Poole is from Winburne about foure miles, and it standeth
almost as an Ile in the hauen. The hauen it selfe also, if a man should
measure it by the circuit, wanteth little of twentie miles, as I did
gesse by the view.
Going therefore into the same, betwéene the north and the south points,
to sée what waters were there, we left Brunkeseie Iland, and the castell
on the left hand within the said points; and passing about by Pole, and
leauing that créeke, bicause it hath no fresh, we came by Holton and
Kesworth, where we beheld two falles, of which one was called the north,
[Sidenote: Piddle.]
the other the south waters. The north streame hight Piddle as I heare.
It riseth about Alton, and goeth from thence to Piddle trench head,
[Sidenote: Deuils.]
Piddle hinton, Walterstow, and yer it come at Birstam, receiueth Deuils
brooke that commeth thither from Brugham and Melcombe by Deuilish towne.
Thence it goeth to Tow piddle, Ashe piddle, Turners piddle (taking in
yer it come there, a water that runneth from Helton by Middleton,
Milburne & Biere) then to Hide, and so into Pole hauen, and of this
water Marianus Scotus speaketh, except I be deceiued. The south water
[Sidenote: Frome.]
is properlie called Frome for Frame. It riseth néere vnto Euershot, and
going downe by Fromequitaine, Chelmington, and Catstocke, it receiueth
there a rill from beside Rowsham, and Wraxehall. After this it goeth on
[Sidenote: Ocus.]
to Chilfrome, and thence to Maden Newton, where it méeteth with the
Owke, that riseth either two miles aboue Hoke parke at Kenford, or in
the great pond within Hoke parke, and going by the Tollards, falleth
into the Frome about Maden Newton, & so go as one from thence to
Fromevauchirch, Crokewaie, Frampton, and Muckilford, and receiueth néere
vnto the same a rill from aboue Vpsidling by S. Nicholas Sidling, and
Grimston. From hence it goeth on by Stratton and Bradford Peuerell, and
[Sidenote: Silleie.]
[Sidenote: Minterne.]
[Sidenote: Cherne.]
beneath this Bradford, it crosseth the Silleie aliàs Minterne and Cherne
brooks both in one chanell: whereof the first riseth in vpper Cherne
parish, the other at Minterne, and méeting aboue middle Cherne, they go
by nether Cherne, Forston, Godmanston, and aboue Charneminster into
Frome. In the meane time also our Frome brancheth and leaueth an Iland
aboue Charneminster, and ioining againe néere Dorchester, it goeth by
Dorchester, and Forthington; but yer it come at Beckington, it méeteth
with another Becke that runneth thereinto from Winterburne, Stapleton,
Martinstow, Heringstow, Caine and Stafford, and from thence goeth
without anie further increase as yet to Beckington, Knighton, Tinkleton,
Morton, Wooll, Bindon, Stoke, & beneath Stoke receiueth the issue of the
[Sidenote: Luckford.]
Luckford lake, from whence also it passeth by Eastholme, Warham, and so
[Sidenote: Séeke more for Wilie brooke that goeth by
West burie to Pole hauen.]
into the Baie. From this fall we went about the arme point by Slepe,
where we saw a little créeke, then by Owre, where we beheld an other, &
then comming againe toward the entrance by saint Helens, and Furleie
castell, we went abroad into the maine, and found ourselues at libertie.
When we were past Pole hauen, we left the Handfast point, the Peuerell
point, S. Adelmes chappell, and came at last to Lughport hauen, whereby
and also the Luckeford lake, all this portion of ground last remembred,
is left in maner of a byland or peninsula, and called the Ile of
Burbecke, wherein is good store of alum and hard stone. In like sort
going still westerlie, we came to Sutton points, where is a créeke. Then
vnto Waie or Wilemouth, by kings Welcombe, which is twentie miles from
Pole, and whose head is not full foure miles aboue the hauen by
northwest at Vphill in the side of a great hill. Hereinto when we were
entred, we saw three falles, whereof the first and greatest commeth from
Vpweie by Bradweie, and Radipoole, receiuing afterward the second that
ran from east Chekerell, and likewise the third that maketh the ground
betwéene Weimouth and Smalmouth passage almost an Iland. There is a
little barre of sand at the hauen mouth, and a great arme of the sea
runneth vp by the right hand; and scant a mile aboue the hauen mouth on
the shore, is a right goodlie and warlike castell made, which hath one
open barbicane. This arme runneth vp also further by a mile as in a
baie, to a point of land where a passage is into Portland, by a little
course of pibble sand. It goeth vp also from the said passage vnto
Abbatsbirie about seauen miles off, where a litle fresh rondell
resorteth to the sea. And somewhat aboue this, is the head or point of
[Sidenote: Chesill.]
the Chesill lieng northwest, which stretcheth vp from thence about
seauen miles, as a maine narrow banke, by a right line vnto the
southeast, and there abutteth vpon Portland scant a quarter of a mile
aboue the Newcastle there. The nature of this banke is such, that so
often as the wind bloweth vehementlie at southeast, so often the sea
beateth in, and losing the banke soketh through it: so that if this wind
should blow from that corner anie long time togither, Portland should be
left an Iland as it hath béene before. But as the southwest wind dooth
appaire this banke, so a northwest dooth barre it vp againe. It is
pretie to note of the Townelet of Waimouth, which lieth streight against
Milton on the other side, and of this place where the water of the hauen
is but of small breadth, that a rope is commonlie tied from one side of
the shore to another, whereby the ferrie men doo guide their botes
without anie helpe of Ores. But to procéed with our purpose. Into the
mouth of this riuer doo ships often come for succour.
Going by Portland and the point thereof called the Rase, we sailed along
by the Shingle, till we came by saint Katharins chappell, where we saw
the fall of a water that came downe from Blackdéene Beaconward, by
Portsham and Abbatsburie. Thence we went to another that fell into the
sea, neere Birton, and descended from Litton by Chilcombe, then vnto the
[Sidenote: Bride.]
Bride or Brute port, a pretie hauen, and the riuer it selfe serued with
[Sidenote: Nature hath set the mouth of this riuer in maner betwixt
two hils, so that a little cost would make an hau[=e] there.]
sundrie waters. It riseth halfe a mile or more aboue Bemister, and so
goeth from Bemister to Netherburie by Parneham, then to Melplash, and so
to Briteport, where it taketh in two waters from by east in one chanell,
of which one riseth east of Nettlecort, and goeth by Porestoke and
Milton, the other at Askerwell, and runneth by Longlether. From hence
[Sidenote: Simen.]
also our Bride going toward the sea, taketh the Simen on the west that
commeth by Simensburge into the same, the whole streame soone after
falling into the sea, and leauing a pretie hauenet.
[Sidenote: Chare.]
The next port is the Chare, serued with two rils in one confluence,
beneath Charemouth. The cheefe head of this riuer is (as Leland saith)
in Marshwood parke, and commeth downe by Whitechurch: the other runneth
by west of Wootton, and méeting beneath Charemouth towne (as I said)
dooth fall into the sea. Then came we to the Cobbe, and beheld the Lime
[Sidenote: Buddle.]
water, which the townesmen call the Buddle, which commeth about thrée
miles by north of Lime, from the hils, fleting vpon Rockie soile, and so
falleth into the sea. Certes, there is no hauen héere that I could sée,
but a quarter of a mile by west southwest of the towne, is a great and
costlie iuttie in the sea for succour of ships. The towne is distant
from Coliton, about fiue miles. And heere we ended our voiage from the
Auon, which conteineth the whole coast of Dorcester, or Dorcetshire, so
that next we must enter into Summerset countie, and sée what waters are
there.
[Sidenote: Axe.]
The first water that we méet withall in Summersetshire is the Axe, which
riseth in a place called Axe knoll, longing to sir Giles Strangwaie,
néere vnto Cheddington in Dorsetshire, from whence it runneth to
Mosterne, Feborow, Claxton, Weiford bridge, Winsham foord, and receiuing
one rill from the east by Hawkechurch, and soone after another comming
from northwest by Churchstoke, from Wainbroke, it goeth to Axeminster,
[Sidenote: Yare aliàs Arte.]
beneath which it crosseth the Yare, that commeth from about Buckland, by
Whitstaunton, Yarecombe, Long bridge, Stockeland, Kilmington bridge
(where it receiueth a brooke from by south, that runneth by Dalwood) and
so into the Axe. From hence our Axe goeth to Drake, Musburie, Culliford:
but yer it come altogither at Culliford, it méeteth with a water that
riseth aboue Cotleie, and goeth from thence by Widworthie, Culliton, and
there receiuing a rill also, procéedeth on after the confluence aboue
Culliford bridge, into the Axe, and from thence hold on togither into
the maine sea, whereinto they fall vnder the roots of the winter
cliffes, the points of them being almost a mile in sunder. The most
westerlie of them called Berewood, lieth within halfe a mile of Seton.
But the other toward the east is named Whitecliffe, of which I saie no
more, but that "in the time of Athelstane, the greatest nauie that euer
aduentured into this Iland, arriued at Seton in Deuonshire, being
replenished with aliens that sought the conquest of this Iland, but
Athelstane met and incountered with them in the field, where he
ouerthrew six thousand of his aforesaid enimies. Not one of them also
that remained aliue, escaped from the battell without some deadlie or
verie gréeuous wound. In this conflict moreouer were slaine fiue kings,
which were interred in the churchyard of Axe minster, and of the part of
the king of England were killed eight earles of the chéefe of his
nobilitie, and they also buried in the churchyard aforesaid. Héervnto it
addeth how the bishop of Shireburne was in like sort slaine in this
battell, that began at Brunedune neere to Coliton, and indured euen to
Axe minster, which then was called Brunberie or Brunburg. The same daie
that this thing happened the sunne lost his light, and so continued
without anie brightnesse, vntill the setting of that planet, though
otherwise the season was cléere and nothing cloudie."
As for the hauen which in times past as I haue heard, hath béene at
[Sidenote: Sidde.]
Sidmouth (so called of Sidde a rillet that runneth thereto) and likewise
[Sidenote: Seton.]
at Seton, I passe it ouer, sith now there is none at all. Yet hath there
béene sometime a notable one, albeit, that at this present betweene the
two points of the old hauen, there lieth a mightie bar of pibble stones,
in the verie mouth of it, and the riuer Axe is driuen to the verie east
point of the hauen called White cliffe. Thereat also a verie little gull
goeth into the sea, whither small fisherbotes doo oft resort for succour.
The men of Seton began of late to stake and make a maine wall within the
hauen to haue changed the course of the Axe, and (almost in the middle of
the old hauen) to haue trenched through the Chesill, thereby to haue let
out the Axe, & to haue taken in the maine sea, but I heare of none effect
that this attempt did come vnto. From Seton westward lieth Coliton, about
[Sidenote: Colie.]
two miles by west northwest, whereof riseth the riuer Colie, which going
by the aforesaid towne, passeth by Colecombe parke, and afterward falleth
betweene Axe bridge and Axe mouth towne into the Axe riuer.
By west of Bereworth point lieth a créeke, serued (so farre as I
remember) with a fresh water that commeth from the hilles south of
[Sidenote: Sid.]
Soutleie or Branscombe. Sidmouth hauen is the next, and thither commeth a
fresh water by S. Maries from the said hils, that goeth from S. Maries
aforesaid to Sidburie, & betweene Saltcombe & Sidmouth into the maine
[Sidenote: Autrie aliàs Ottereie.]
sea. By west of Auterton point also lieth another hauen, and thither
commeth a pretie riueret, whose head is in the Hackpendon hilles, and
commeth downe first by Vpauter, then by a parke side to Mohuns Auter,
Munketon, Honniton, Buckewell, and north of Autrie receiueth a rill
[Sidenote: Tale.]
called Tale, that riseth northwest of Brodemburie in a wood, and from
whence it commeth by Pehemburie, Vinniton, and making a confluence with
the other, they go as one betwéene Cadde and Autrie, to Herford, Luton,
Collaton, Auterton, Budeleie, and so into the sea. On the west side of
this hauen is Budeleie almost directly against Otterton. It is easie to
be seene also, that within lesse space than one hundred yeers, ships did
vse this hauen, but now it is barred vp. Some call it Budeleie hauen of
Budeleie towne, others Salterne port, of a little créeke comming out of
the maine hauen vnto Salterne village, that hath in time past béene a
towne of great estimation.