MEASURING FOR HARNESS.
A very large percentage of all the harness makers in this country look
upon the idea of measuring a horse as unworthy their consideration,
but the experience and observation of the most enterprising men in the
custom trade has convinced them that the reason why there are so many
ill fitting harness in use is because of the failure of so large a
number in the trade to adopt the same common-sense rules which govern
other mechanics. There are some straps which can be lengthened or
shortened to accommodate them to the size and form of the horse without
detriment; but the principal ones can not be so changed, and if not
made of a proper length at first they seriously interfere with the
appearance as well as the durability of the harness.
Prominent among the latter is the hame tug, whether it be for a short
or long tug harness. If for a long tug, the length must be such that
when the collar is well down upon the shoulder, the market tug will
follow a line parallel with the center of the pad side: if this
position is not maintained, an unnecessary strain is thrown upon the
swivel, or loop in the end of the pad top, and the pad itself will be
likely to be drawn out of shape and the appearance of the harness be
marred. With short tugs the result is quite as injurious; if the tug is
sufficiently long to allow the trace buckle to come in contact with the
pad trace bearer on a double harness, and the buckle on the back-band
of a single harness, injury will be done to these straps, or to the
hame tug itself. It naturally follows, therefore, that the length of
the horse from the collar to the girth is an important consideration.
With breast collar harness the length of the body is equally as
important as the length of the hame tug on the hame collar; the
position of the neck strap tugs has much to do with the set of the
collar and the wear of the harness. If the tugs are set too far back,
the collar will sag in front so as to interfere with the movement of
the horse, or it will be necessary to shorten the neck strap to such an
extent that an undue strain will be thrown upon it at the neck strap
tug when the trace is straightened.
The proper length for the breeching body, winker brace, cheek straps,
girths, etc., are of equal importance; while the point of attaching
the hip strap to the turnback, the front to the cheek pieces, and the
position of the winkers, all contribute much to the durability as well
as the appearance of the harness; yet there are those who ridicule the
whole idea of measuring, they depending entirely upon lengthening or
shortening such straps as can be adjusted by the use of buckles.
Manufacturers who carry on an extended business and ship goods to all
parts of the country can not measure every horse; they have accordingly
adopted a set of lengths for each class, based upon the size of horse
upon which they are to be used.
If a coach harness is to be made, it is supposed to be for horses
sixteen hands, or over, high, and is cut to those lengths that
experience has shown to be the most correct for such sized animals. If
a double road harness is ordered, it is made from lengths suitable for
horses fifteen or fifteen and a half hands high, while an order for
a light phaeton harness would be filled by cutting from the scale of
lengths adapted to horses fourteen or fourteen and a half hands high. A
light track harness is cut to fit a horse fifteen or fifteen and a half
hands high, while one for a coupé would be cut from the lengths suited
to horses sixteen to sixteen and a half hands high. Regular buggy
harness for common use are cut with traces and other straps running
lengthwise to fit horses fifteen hands high, but girths, etc., are cut
for heavier animals.
The lengths used by these houses have been determined by close
observation, and are as nearly correct as can be expected. Another rule
is based upon the lengths suited to a fifteen-hand horse, adding or
subtracting four inches to girths, one and one half inches to breast
and breeching bodies, and three inches to hip and neck straps, for
every hand increase or decrease in the size of the horse.
[Illustration: COACH HARNESS.]
Such tables are always valuable to harness makers who are making up
stock, and by a little observation may be made to answer perfectly for
different localities; but custom makers who do not possess these scales
of lengths should measure the horses for which the harness is to be
made if they hope to succeed in having it fit well.
In measuring for a bridle, ascertain the length from the corner of the
mouth to one inch below the root of the ear, and add enough to this
for the lap to secure the buckle to the top of the cheek piece, and
also two thirds the original length: this will give a cheek piece long
enough to allow the loose end to enter into the cheek loop about one
half its length; for the crown piece, measure from the root of the
ear on one side, over the head to the root of the ear on the other
side, and add five or six inches to each end for the cheek and throat
latch billets; for throat latch, measure from a point two inches below
the root of the ear, around the throat, to the corresponding point
on the other side; for the neck strap to a breast collar, pass the
measure over the neck just forward of the highest point of the withers,
carrying the ends forward three inches to a point parallel with the
point where the throat enters the breast; determine the position of
the tugs by measuring around the breast from the points designated
by the ends of the neck strap. To determine the length of the breast
collar, measure from a point four inches above the elbow on one side,
around the breast just below where the throat enters the breast, to a
corresponding point on the other side. The girth measure must also be
taken.
If the harness is to be made up with a long tug and market tug,
designate the exact location of the center of the girth, and measure
from the end of the hame draft eye to the point designated as the
center of the girth, and deduct from this the length of the buckle back
of the center of the loop. See that the collar sets well back in its
place when measuring for the tug, as the proper length of this strap is
of the greatest importance: if it is too long or too short, the market
tug will not occupy its proper position, and thereby detract much from
the appearance of the harness. In measuring for the breeching, draw
the line around the buttock from a point just above the stifle to a
corresponding position on the opposite side, and allow one inch for
slack; for hip straps, measure from a point ten inches forward of the
crupper down to the point occupied by the body of the breeching, and
deduct three inches for the breeching tugs.
The harness maker who has a well-assorted table of lengths of the
strapping for various kinds of harness need not measure the horse to
be fitted except in special cases. A set of lengths which are suited
to horses in one locality may be in part unsuited to those of another,
owing to the difference in their build, and it would be well in all
cases to test the lengths furnished before adopting them in full.
In preparing the tables of lengths and widths in this work, the author
has aimed to secure those which have proved correct, and, while not
claiming infallibility, he believes they are as near perfect as any
tables of this kind can be. They represent a variety of styles suited
to the wants of all classes of customers, and can be followed with
safety.