DRAWING-IN AND PRESSING.
The boards having been squared, they are to be attached to the book
by lacing the ends of the cord through holes made in the board. The
boards are to be laid on the book with their backs in the groove and
level with the head; they must then be marked either with a lead pencil
or the point of a bodkin exactly in a line with the slips, about half
an inch down the board. On a piece of wood the mill-board is placed,
and holes are pierced by hammering a short bodkin through on the line
made, at a distance from the edge in accordance with the size of the
book. About half an inch away from the back is the right distance for
an |58| octavo. The board is then to be turned over, and a second hole
made about half an inch away from the first ones. The boards having
been holed, the slips must be scraped, pasted slightly, and tapered or
pointed. Draw them tightly through the hole first made and back through
the second. Tap them slightly when the board is down to prevent them
from slipping and getting loose. When the cords are drawn through, cut
the ends close to the board with a knife, and well hammer them down
on the knocking-down iron to make the board close on the slips and
hold them tight. The slips should be well and carefully hammered, as
any projection will be seen with great distinctness when the book is
covered. The hammer must be held perfectly even, for the _slips will be
cut_ by the edge of it if _used carelessly_.
The book is now to be examined, and any little alteration may be made
before putting it into the standing press. With all books, a tin should
be placed between the mill-board and book, to flatten the slips, and
prevent their adherence. The tin is placed right up to the groove,
and serves also as a guide for the pressing board. Pressing boards,
the same size as the book, should be put flush with the groove, using
the pressing tin as guide, and the book or books placed in the centre
of the press directly under the screw, which is to be tightened as
much as possible. In pressing books of various sizes, the largest
book must always be put at the bottom of the press, with a block or a
few pressing boards between the various sizes, in order to get equal
pressure on the whole, and to allow the screw to come exactly on the
centre of the books.
The backs of the books are now to be pasted, and allowed to stand for
a few minutes to soften the glue. Then with a piece of wood or iron,
called a cleaning-off stick (wood is preferable), the glue is rubbed
off, and the backs are well rubbed with a handful of shavings and left
to dry. Leave them as long as possible in the press, and if the volume
is |59| rather a thick one a coat of paste or thin glue should be
applied to the back. Paste is preferable.
If the book is very thick a piece of thin calico may be pasted to the
back and allowed to dry, the surplus being taken away afterwards.
In flexible work care must be taken that the cleaning-off stick is
not forced too hard against the bands, or the thread being moist will
break, or the paper being wet will tear, or the bands may become
shifted. The cleaning-off stick may be made of any piece of wood;
an old octavo cutting board is as good as anything else, but a good
workman will always have one suitable and at hand when required for use.
When the volumes have been pressed enough (a day’s pressing is none
too much) they are to be taken out, and the tins and pressing boards
put away. The book is then ready for cutting. Of the numerous presses,
excepting the hydraulic, Gregory’s Patent Compound Action Screw Press
is to my mind the best, and I believe it to be one of the most powerful
presses yet invented; sixty tons pressure can be obtained by it.