MILL-BOARDS.
There is no occasion to wait for the book to be advanced as far as
the backing before the workman sees to his boards; but he should take
advantage of the period of drying to prepare them, to look out the
proper thickness of the board, and to line them with paper either on
one side or on both.
There are now so many kinds of mill-boards made that a few words about
them may not be out of place. The best boards are made of old rope,
and cost about £30 per ton. The various mills make each a different
quality, the prices ranging down to £14 per ton; about this price the
straw boards may be said to commence, they going as low as £7, and even
less.
A new board has lately appeared called leather board; it is exceedingly
hard and durable. I made several experiments with this board, but up to
the present have not succeeded in getting it to lay flat on the book.
Boards are made to the various sizes in sheets varying from pott
(17-1/4 × 14-1/4 inches) to double elephant (40 × 28 inches). The
thickness is known as 6_d._, 7_d._, 8_d._; 8x, or eightpenny one cross;
8xx, eightpenny two cross; X for tenpenny. Here is a list in full of
all the boards likely to be used:—|52|
KEY TO TABLE.
A=“inches.”; B=“Dozens in a Bundle.”; C=“Weight Per Bundle, lb.”
DESCRIPTION. SIZE. 6d. 7d. 8d. 8x. 8xx. X.
A B C B C B C B C B C B C
Pott 17-1/4 ×14-1/4 6 28 6 40 5 48 5 56 4 60 3 58
Foolscap 18-1/2 ×14-1/2 6 32 6 44 5 50 5 58 4 62 3 58
Crown 20 ×16-1/4 6 36 6 50 5 62 5 72 4 74 3 72
Small Half Royal 20-1/4 ×13 6 30 6 44 5 50 5 60 4 62 3 58
Large Half Royal 21 ×14 6 30 6 48 5 60 5 62 4 70 3 72
Short 21 ×17 6 38 6 55 5 70 5 78 4 78 3 78
Sm. Half Imperial 22-1/4 ×15 6 36 6 50 5 64 4 70 3 62 2 60
Half Imperial 23-1/2 ×16-1/2 6 40 6 60 5 66 4 70 3 66 2 64
Mdle. or Sm.Demy 22-1/2 ×18-1/2 6 45 6 60 5 66 4 74 3 72 2 66
Large Middle or
Large Demy 23-3/4 ×18-1/2 6 48 6 68 5 66 4 76 3 74 2 60
Large or Medium 24 ×19 6 48 6 70 5 65 4 76 3 74 2 60
Small Royal 25-1/2 ×19-1/2 6 52 6 78 5 78 4 84 3 84 2 68
Large Royal 26-3/4 ×20-3/4 6 52 6 78 4 68 3 76 2 68 2 86
Extra Royal 28-1/2 ×21-1/2 6 56 6 82 4 74 3 80 2 74 2 92
Imperial 32 ×22-1/2 6 72 4 72 3 72 2 72 2 96 2 120
[Illustration: Mill-board Shears.]
Having chosen the board, it is necessary to cut it up to the size
wanted. If the book is 8vo., the board is cut into eight pieces; if
4to., into four; using a demy board for a demy book, or a royal for
a royal book. To cut up the board, first mark up, as a guide for the
mill-board shears. These are very large shears, in shape somewhat like
an enlarged tin shears. To use the shears, screw up one arm in the
laying press, hold the board by the left hand, using the right to work
the upper arm, the left hand meanwhile guiding the board. Some little
tact is required |53| to cut heavy boards. It will be found that it
is necessary to press the lower arm away with the thigh, and bring the
upper arm towards the operator whilst cutting.
[Illustration: Mill-board Machine.]
A mill-board cutting machine is now in all large shops. The cut fairly
well explains itself; the long blade descending cuts the boards, which
are held fast on the table by the clamp. The gauges are set either on
the table or in front. The board is put on the table and held tight
by pressure of the foot on the treadle; the knife descending upon the
exposed board cuts after the principle of the guillotine blade. Another
kind, introduced by Messrs. Richmond, of Kirby Street, Hatton Garden,
is made for steam work, and is no doubt one of the best that can be
made. Instead of a knife to descend, a number of circular cutters are
made to revolve on two spindles, the one cutter working against the
other (see woodcut); but I give Messrs. Richmond’s own description, it
being more explicit than any I could |54| possibly give: “The machine
accomplishes a surprising amount of superior work in a very short time,
and the best description of the ordinary lever mill-board cutting
machine cannot be compared with it. The machine is very strongly and
accurately constructed. It is furnished with an iron table having a
planed surface, and is also provided with a self-acting feed gauge.
The gear wheels are engine cut, and the circular cutters, which are of
the best cast steel, being turned and ground “dead true,” clean and
accurate cutting is insured. The machine will therefore be found to be
a most profitable acquisition to any bookbinding establishment in which
large quantities of mill-board are used up.”
[Illustration: Steam Mill-board Cutting Machine.]
The boards being cut, square the edge which is to go to the back of the
book. This must be done in the cutting press, using a cutting board for
one side termed a “runner,” and another called a “cut-against” for the
other side. |55| These are simply to save the press from being cut;
and a piece of old mill-board is generally placed on the cut-against,
so that the plough knife does not cut or use up the cut-against too
quickly. The boards are now, if for whole-binding, to be lined on both
sides with paper; if for half-binding only on one side. The reason for
lining them is to make the boards curve inwards towards the book. The
various pastings would cause the board to curve the contrary way if it
were not lined. If the boards are to be lined both sides, paper should
be cut double the size of the boards; if only one side, the paper cut
a little wider than the boards, so that a portion of the paper may be
turned over on to the other side about a quarter of an inch. The paper
is now pasted with not too thick paste, and the board laid on the paper
_with the cut edge towards_ the portion to be turned over. It is now
taken up with the paper adhering, and laid down on the press with the
paper side upwards, and rubbed well down; it is then again turned over
and the paper drawn over the other side. It is advisable to press the
boards to make more certain of the paper adhering, remembering always
that the paper must be pasted all over very evenly, for it cannot be
expected to adhere if it is not pasted properly.
When the books are very thick, two boards must be pasted together, not
only to get the proper thickness, but for strength, for a made board is
always stronger than a single one. If a board has to be made, a thick
and a somewhat thinner board should be fastened together _with paste_.
Paste both boards and put them in the standing press for the night.
Great pressure should not be put on at first, but after allowing them
to set for a few minutes, pull down the press as tight as possible.
When placing made boards to the book, _the thinner one should always be
next the book_. It may be taken as a general rule that a thinner board
when pasted will always draw a thicker one. |56|
When boards are lined on one side only it is usual to turn half an inch
of the paper over the square or cut edge, and the lined side must be
placed next the book.
Many binders line the mill-board all over with paper before cutting;
this may save time, but the edge of the board at the joint is liable to
be abraised, and the resulting joint uneven.
The boards when lined should be laid about or stood up to dry, and when
dry, cut to the proper and exact size for the book. As a fact, the
black boards now sold are much too new or green to be used direct by
the binder, they should be stocked for some months.
The requisite width is obtained by extending the compass from the back
of the book to the edge of the smallest bolt or fold in the foredge. It
is advisable not to measure less than this point, but to leave a leaf
or two in order to show that the book is not cut down. The compasses
being fixed by means of the side screw, the boards are to be knocked
up even, compassed up, and placed in the lying press, in which they
are cut, using, as before, the “cut-against,” and placing the runner
exactly to the compass holes. When cut they are to be tested by turning
one round and putting them together again; if they are the least out
of truth it will be apparent at once. The head or top of the boards is
next to be cut by placing a square against the back and marking the
head or top with a bodkin or point of a knife. The boards being quite
straight are again put into the press and cut, and when taken out
should be again proved by reversing them as before, and if not true
they must be recut. The length is now taken from the head of the book
to the tail, and in this some judgment must be used. If the book has
already been cut the measure must be somewhat larger than the book,
allowing only such an amount of paper to be cut off as will make the
edge smooth. If, however, the book is to |57| be entirely uncut,
the size of the book is measured, and in addition the portion called
_squares_ must be added.
When a book has not been cut, the amount that is to be cut off the head
will give the head or top square, and the book being measured from the
head, another square or projection must be added to it, and the compass
set to one of the shortest leaves in the book. Bearing in mind the
article on trimming, enough of the book _only_ should be cut to give
the edge solidity for either gilding or marbling. A few leaves should
always be left not cut with the plough, to show that the book has not
been cut down. These few leaves are called _proof_, and are always a
mark of careful work.
About twenty years ago it was the mode to square the foredge of the
boards, then lace or draw them in, and to cut the head and tail of the
boards and book together, then to turn up and cut the foredge of the
book.