Pamplona—Pursuit of Clausel—Wellington on the March—Prospects of more
Fighting—Effects of the War—The French Position turned—Anecdote of
Wellington—Ernani—St. Sebastian—Wellington’s Movements.
Head-quarters, half a league from
Pamplona.
MY DEAR M——,
I have repented staying two days at Vittoria. The consequence has been
that I fell in with all the fagged division of the army, and found
every hole full of troops, and nothing to eat or drink. The roads
were poached up knee-deep with clay, and I have almost knocked up
both myself and my animals. Yesterday I had no dinner, and to-day no
breakfast, and the first day I was twelve hours on the road going six
leagues to a place two leagues beyond Salvatierra; from thence I got in
thirteen hours more to Orunzun, eight leagues. There my baggage did not
arrive in time, and I went to bed without dinner and without anything
except the comforts of a Spanish cottage.
I set out this morning for head-quarters. Now we start fair again;
to-morrow we march. Pamplona is invested, but I fear that we have
little means for a very regular siege; and accounts state that Clausel
is, with fifteen thousand men, on his road from Logrono, endeavouring
to escape towards Suchet. It is hoped that we may intercept him, or at
least his guns; and so we march, though the army is terribly fagged,
and the animals also. General Graham is at Tolosa; Mina at Tudela to
assist against Clausel. From Vittoria to this place we have constantly
passed at first stripped and unburied dead, then baggage and animals
without number, but the French have got off to France, and march away
like monkeys, scrambling over everything, consequently there are few
prisoners. Lord Wellington is in the highest spirits. King Joseph was
within two hundred yards of our dragoons, and had a narrow escape. A
few more cannon have been taken.
It is one continued pass, or valley, all the way from Vittoria to this
place; the road infamous, villages every mile, but much damaged by the
French, and the people, from affluence, reduced to misery and distress.
Oh war! war! little do you know of it in England. At Orunzun the French
had spent much in a blockhouse and fort; they withdrew the garrison for
the battle, and the peasants destroyed it immediately.
_One league from Sanguessa, Head-Quarters, Casseda, June 29th,
1813._—Thus far we have arrived in pursuit of Clausel and his division,
who were at Logrono, on their way to join King Joseph. Had the battle
been delayed two days longer, we should have had these fifteen thousand
men, in addition, to contend with; for by that time they would have
joined the king’s army. As it was, they were in some degree cut off
and separated from their friends, and might have been in some danger;
for had it not been for the information of some treacherous alcalde (I
believe), these men would have proceeded towards Pamplona, and would
then have fallen completely into our net. As it is, hearing of our
approach, and having the start, there is no chance of doing anything
with them, I think; they have full opportunity of joining Suchet, and
nothing material in their way, though Mina may harass them much. Our
army, by this pursuit, already is terribly harassed and out of sorts.
In marching, our men have no chance at all with the French. The latter
beat them hollow; principally, I believe, owing to their being a more
intelligent set of beings, seeing consequences more, and feeling them.
This makes them sober and orderly whenever it becomes material, and
on a pinch their exertions and individual activity are astonishing.
Our men get sulky and desperate, drink excessively, and become daily
more weak and unable to proceed, principally from their own conduct.
They eat voraciously when opportunity offers, after having had short
fare. This brings on fluxes, &c. In every respect, except courage,
they are very inferior soldiers to the French and Germans. When the
two divisions, the fourth and light, passed through Taffalla the day
before yesterday, the more soldierlike appearance and conduct of the
foreigners, though in person naturally inferior, was very mortifying.
Lord Wellington feels it much, and is much hurt.[4]
The 23rd and 11th Portuguese regiments, who behaved in the field on
the 23rd as well as any British did or could do, are on the march,
though smaller animals, most superior. They were cheerful, orderly, and
steady. The English troops were fagged, half tipsy, weak, disorderly,
and unsoldierlike; and yet the Portuguese suffer greater real
hardships, for they have no tents, and only bivouac, and have a worse
commissariat.
I think we shall to-morrow retrace our steps to Pamplona, and give
over this pursuit. Lord Wellington, I think, sees it will not do.
We had a very long march the day before yesterday to Taffalla. The
road was, however, very good on the Canuria Real from Pamplona to
Tudela. Thinking that the French were making to Tudela, we proceeded
that way by this forced march. The country was very fine. About two
leagues from Pamplona was a handsome, plain, elegant aqueduct, of one
hundred arches, light and simple. We passed several villages, and,
near Taffalla, a quantity of well-managed orchards and garden-ground;
the consequence was, fruit and vegetables cheap and good, plenty of
cherries about 1_d._ a-pound, pears and plums, &c.; onions, beans,
peas, lettuce, pork, cheap; in short, a most plentiful Spanish market.
Taffalla is a good town, and the people civil and hospitable. They
had never seen us before, and gave us a welcome. I should have liked
another day there, for both my men and animals were knocked up, and
wanted it. The next day, however, we proceeded by a mountain-road over
a little sierra to this place (Casseda), changing our direction of
march, though the object was the same. Last night, I believe, it was
found that the French had much the start of us, and had crossed the
Ebro. In short, I presume from this, and from the very harassed and bad
state of the men to-day, we halted here; and I suspect to-morrow we
shall return.
Lord Wellington himself seemed knocked up yesterday; he ate little or
nothing, looking anxious, and slept nearly all the time of sitting
after dinner. I think he was not quite well, and anxious, no doubt.
Lord March was sent off to General Graham, at Tolosa; he returned
yesterday, and reports that General Graham had entered Tolosa,
which might have been well defended. He blew open the gates with
a nine-pounder, and so got in. General Foy, however, had taken a
position beyond, with eighteen thousand men, in such a strong country,
that Graham dared not attack him, and Lord March thought the loss would
be great if we did, unless we could turn it by a circuitous march. He
said the country was in that direction full of positions; in short
there is much yet to do.
Tarragona is, I believe, not taken at last. General Murray re-embarked
when Suchet’s army came that way. This, as a plan to free Valencia,
has, I believe, answered, and Elio, &c., have advanced. Longa’s people
have behaved well in another affair since the battle. The day after
to-morrow I expect to be either in sight of Pamplona again, or to be on
the way towards the Tolosa road; but time will show.
From this place, which is a large village on a hill, we have a full
view of a long range of the Pyrenees, which I have been spying at with
a good glass. They are fine mountains, but much less so, I think, than
the Alps. I see much snow on them, but no glaciers. The shapes are more
picturesque, but less astonishing and sublime. We are, however, far
off, and perhaps I do not do justice to these hoary gentlemen. There is
no snow summit so far as I can see, only great lodgments of snow.
_Huarte, July 2nd, in front of Pamplona._—As expected, we yesterday set
out on our way back here, a short cut over the sierra, to Monreal—the
day before yesterday sending the guns, &c., round by Taffalla, and
from Monreal here yesterday. This is a wild road, and yet not very
picturesque. About this place we have a fine plain, in which Pamplona
stands. The town is invested, but I believe that is all, and no steps
have yet been taken for the siege; the place is strong, and we have as
yet no guns for the purpose. We yesterday found the suburbs burning,
the work of the French, and more women sent away from the town. The
town looks handsome, but somehow has disappointed me. A French party
also still holds out at Pancorvo; the worst of all, however, is the
bad news from General Murray. It is said that he went off in such a
hurry when he heard of Suchet’s approach, that, without waiting to
know his exact danger, or where Suchet was, he embarked, leaving all
his battering artillery, or as some say twenty pieces, with all the
ammunition, &c., belonging to them, in a perfect state for the use
of the French; and this when, in fact, he had four days to remove
it in, and when the Admiral offered to undertake to bring it off. I
am glad, however, to hear that Lord William Bentinck has arrived to
take the command. The odds are, however, that the Spaniards will get
a beating under Elio before our men join them again; it is now said
that Suchet left five thousand men at Valencia also. In short, in this
game of chess we are playing, there is almost always some bad move to
counteract Lord Wellington’s good ones.
It is now said that we are not to wait here for the siege, but to move
towards Bayonne, and the King’s army, which is said to have taken up
a position on the frontiers. We expect to move towards Roncesvalles
to-morrow; but this is not settled. In my opinion we should have done
this immediately, without going after Clausel; but no doubt Lord
Wellington knew best what to do. We have to-day cold rainy weather
again, bad for men in camp. This place, Huarte, is rather a large
village with tolerable market. Villa Alba, half a mile off, where
some troops are posted, seems better still. We are about two miles
from Pamplona, across a little stream, now from the rains become a
respectable river. The great distress at present is for horseshoes, and
to-morrow I expect a mountain march.
It is now stated that we took fourteen hundred prisoners altogether in
this late battle, not wounded, eleven hundred wounded, and about seven
hundred and fifty were found dead; the prisoners reckon their own loss
at eleven thousand. However, as they say, thousands ran away over the
mountain, and left the army altogether, this must be exaggeration. If
the armistice produces a Russian and Prussian peace, and we are left
here to Bonaparte’s sole attention and undivided care, I fear we may
again see the neighbourhood of Portugal before six months are passed,
notwithstanding the late most glorious victory.
_Head-Quarters, Ostiz, July 3rd (Civil Department at Boutain)._—Here
we are now within five leagues and less of France, and on our way, at
least, towards Bayonne. General Hill is, I believe, to be to-day at
Estevan, and we have some men in France, at St. Jean Pied de Port.
General Foy’s (French) eighteen thousand have left their position
beyond Tolosa, having given the great convoy three days more time to
be off. This convoy had the pictures, immense service of plate of the
King, three hundred pieces of heavy artillery, &c.: I think we might
have caught it had we known how things were going on. They have now
retreated to France, and I believe Graham after them. All cars and
wheel carriages remain at Orcayen, near Pamplona; I guess, therefore,
we shall soon be back again, and perhaps proceed against Suchet, if he
joins Clausel at Saragossa, as his orders, from intercepted letters,
were supposed to be. Your proverb, however, _vedremo co’l tempo_,
applies here, as well as everywhere. Dr. M’Gregor is very much engaged,
and if this wet weather continues will, I think, be more so. I am so
cold now that I am writing with my coat buttoned up, and my hat on,
and we have constant showers. For about three hours the day before
yesterday it was excessively hot. So we go on! As yet we have seen
nothing very beautiful on this road, but it may mend. I am hungry,
tired, and worried, and must send this off to Ostiz: so adieu.
Lord Aylmer has now a brigade, and has joined it as Major-general.
General Pakenham is the Adjutant-general. Three thousand of our men
wounded at Vittoria.
_Head-Quarters, Lans, July 5th, 1813 (Civil Department, the Spaniards
and Artillery at Arriez)._—We were yesterday ordered to proceed to
Lans, but not very early, as the French were in the neighbourhood. It
rained all the way, and was very cold and uncomfortable, and what added
much to the unpleasantness of the journey, was the horrible road and
the loss of my horse’s shoes. The first league of this _camina real_
was a narrow lane of large loose stones, nearly the size of my head,
with all the interstices filled with good Brentford slop, half a foot
deep; baggage constantly stopped the way. About half way, however, I
bribed a Spanish farrier to put me on three Spanish shoes, until the
heads of the nails half an inch square, upon six of which heads in each
shoe the horses walk, as the shoe never touches a stone; these skaits
are, however, much better than nothing. Having stopped an hour in the
rain for this, I proceeded, and at Lans found an order to go on half
a league on the left. We are almost all here, or close by, except the
Adjutant-general’s and Quarter-Master-general’s departments, and except
Marshal Beresford. The latter was to have been in my house, but did not
like it, and found a place at Lans. The quarter being vacant, I popped
into a large rambling black place, with long tables and benches, like
your servants’ hall, great stables, &c., all under one roof.
The villages are nearly all alike in general shape and
accommodation;—scarcely any cottages but farm-houses, and I suppose the
great tables and benches they all contain have been in better times
used for the workmen to dine. This has been the character of all the
villages for the last ten or twelve miles, and they lie very thick,
four in sight here, and probably ten within a league. The hills around
are all covered with wood; the valley almost knee deep with grass for
hay, and abounding in corn; the walks further on towards the mountains
very pleasant; fine oaks and rocks, &c.; the climate very cold for
England in July, and wet; the verdure like that of Ireland; plenty of
sheep on the mountains, but little to be had here except milk. At Lans
there was pork at a penny a pound, and French brandy.
To-day we halt here, for the French are disposed to stand a little
further. Our cavalry moved last night to Almandos, two leagues on,—the
14th, and some Germans, and General Hill’s head-quarters, to Berrueta,
whence the French retired. The reports now are that General Hill sent
word last night that the French were strongly posted a little farther
on, and that the peasants said they were eight thousand; but though
he could not see so many, he did not much like the position. Lord
Wellington sent him word that he would be there by ten o’clock this
morning, and he is gone with most of the military staff. We have heard
firing very plainly, but know not where it is. This is famous ground
for sharp-shooting, as you cannot see in general a hundred yards before
you. General Byng, with some British and Spanish, is gone along the
Roncesvalles road, toward St. Jean Pied de Port, and Graham proceeds
by the great road. Some stores are ordered round to land at Deva; I
conclude we shall only secure the passes, and that we shall not enter
France. Ground is broken up before Pamplona, but I think only for
form sake; very few men at work. Only the six eighteen-pounders are
at hand. An artillery serjeant I hear deserted from Pamplona two days
since, and is supposed to have given important information. General
Wimpfen tells me that the French have some works at Elisondo, which is,
I suppose, the place General Hill is stopped by, and that they seem
disposed to make a little stand there. I wish Suchet would either come
up by Saragossa and fight near Pamplona, and thus save us that long
trip, or that he would be off at once, like the rest; the latter is,
however, I fear, more to be wished than expected. With Clausel, he will
have probably, including garrisons, about forty thousand men. If after
all a peace should be made, leaving out England and the Peninsula, we
must even now still be off, and I only hope it will be settled before
the autumn bad weather; another rainy retreat from this part will never
do. I think we may at least stand towards the Astrinos and Gallicia,
and not go back to Frenada, for Bonaparte, with all his energy and
activity, can scarcely be ready to follow us in force this autumn.
My old witch of a patrona came in just now, into the place where I am,
and moving the heavy bed, disappeared down a trap-door under it to
get up a little clean linen from her hiding-place, where she conceals
things from the French. She also produced a guerilla soldier’s shirt,
which he had left to be washed, and called for to-day. She was very
much frightened at us yesterday, as all here are, but is more sociable
to-day.
We have turned about three hundred mules and horses into the meadows
here, and have cut down two or three fields for the feeding at night,
instead of the green oats or barley, for that is scarce here. How would
you like all this in England? The peas and beans also are pretty well
pillaged by our soldiers, and frequently the cattle get in besides. I
do not pity the Spaniards for this; but as they are obstinate, they
will not pick and sell to us officers who ask them, consequently the
soldiers and our muleteers pick for themselves gratis. I do not think
the crops here are so forward as in England; we are, therefore, luckily
for the horses, just in the grass season. If we go back to the barren,
brown, southern plains, it will be rather a disagreeable change. We
shall then, however, probably, get corn for the horses, which now is
very scarce. For the present, adieu.
If the French do not move, probably we may halt here to-morrow again;
but I doubt we shall proceed. Twelve Portuguese field-pieces were
following us up this horrible road; the French got two guns by the same
road to Pamplona last year. For the last fortnight we have found the
people of Navarre very stupid, and their language unintelligible. They
do not understand good Castilian, but have a lingo of their own, very
barbarous; the little Spanish I have picked up is here, therefore, of
no use, and I am nearly reduced to the state of the deaf and dumb, to
have recourse to signs and acting.
_Head-Quarters, Irurita, July 7th._—From Lans and Arriez we proceeded
on the 6th to Berrueta, through Almandos, across a part of the
Pyrenees. The first league was through a fine oak wood, and very hilly;
the next there was more hill, and, if possible, worse roads, and in
particular a very long descent. The hills were, however, green and
wooded to the summits, rounded, and not wild or savage, in short it was
hilly scenery and not mountain—this is the Lower Pyrenees. From one
part on the Lans road, the sea, I am told, was visible. Some Portuguese
artillery followed us all the way, and have arrived safely.
We then reached Almandos, which contained a few very large houses
for head-quarters; there the artillery, engineers, and Spaniards of
head-quarters remained, and we descended a zigzag hill, and then
ascended to Berrueta. I there got a very bad quarter, but staid,
in order to be at the head-quarter village, to inquire into some
complaints of public money taken by a Commissary at Vittoria. On the
night of the 5th I was sent for at nine at night from Arriez to Lans by
Lord Wellington about this business. It is a most horrible road even
in the day time, and in my way back alone, I lost myself on a boggy
common, and did not arrive until nearly one o’clock, having for about
an hour and a half splattered about in a bed of wet clay, up to the
horse’s knees at times, and having some notion of wolves, &c. This made
me anxious to be at the head-quarters village, where I dined with Lord
Wellington, and examined the Commissary in General Pakenham’s presence.
Berrueta was a small French post against the Guerillas, and the ground
was strong; the church and about four houses, and a wall near were cut
with loop-holes for musketry, and a little round bastion built in front
with a double row of loop-holes commanding the roads, and a little
tiled roof for one sentry at the top. The house had a rough eagle in
black drawn upon it, and the inscription “Place Napoleon.” The little
street or alley within the enclosure was called Rue Impériale. In spite
of this the French, about three thousand strong, had the day before
been driven from this ground and position by about five hundred of
the second division, and had left us in possession, allowing General
Hill to go on to this place, Irurita, a good league further, where we
have now the head-quarters. General Hill has proceeded this morning to
try and drive the French from a position about two leagues and a half
further on near the French frontier at Maya, where they have made a
semblance at least, with about eight thousand men, as if they meant to
defend the pass there.
The road from Berrueta to Irurita was over one long hill of a league,
but good enough, and then brought us down to this place at one
extremity of the valley of Bastan. This valley is a very rich tract,
surrounded by cultivated hills, well built and peopled, and terminated
on the other extremity by the pass of Maya.
General Hill has moved on his head-quarters from hence to Elisondo,
full a half league further, near the centre of the valley; and if the
French give way, is to proceed further. Lord Wellington and all his
suite are gone on forwards to watch the event. This place contains
a number of large houses, but is in general dirty and bad in the
interior. Lord Wellington’s house, and that of Marshal Beresford, and
a few others about here, are in the French style, with glass windows
in folding doors, and French blinds, &c., and they are clean and
comfortable; at Elisondo, there is more of this, I hear. This valley
has a sort of nobility of its own, and most of the numerous good houses
belong to an inferior nobility. They almost all sport arms, and most
the chequers. I understand this valley is also famous for the number
of men of talent who have at different times issued from it. There is
also trade in the valley, and commercial connexions even with Cadiz.
These second-rate nobles have had the sense not quite to despise that
mode of getting money, and thereby all other comforts. The effects of
the war and of the times are, however, equally manifest here, but on a
higher scale than in the ruined cottage, or the farmer stripped of his
cattle and corn. Lord Wellington’s patron, whose house is now opposite
and very handsome, was a native of this place, and went as a merchant
to South America: he was engaged there in trade twenty-six years, and
then returned to enjoy himself, like our Scotch Indians, in his native
place. He, however, foolishly bought no land, and continues engaged
in trade by means of an agent at Cadiz, and another at Vera Cruz,
living here on the profits. One rich vessel we took from him before
the declaration of war; this shook him a little: since that his Vera
Cruz agent turned gambler and failed. We have taken another vessel of
his since, and he thus was reduced nearly to his moveables. To supply
French contributions, and to find the _à quoi vivre_ for himself and
two sons, he has sold all his plate, &c., and jewels. He has now only
some tolerable bedding in twelve bedrooms, and straw chairs and deal
tables. The little man, however, told all this to General O’Lalor in my
presence with much good humour, and did not seem very unhappy. He was
very anxious to please Lord Wellington in his quarter.
Here we see the miseries of the contest in another shape. The old mad
Marquis d’Almeida left this to-day to go on with General Hill, very
anxious to beat the French in their own territory, and give them back
their own again. He has attached himself to General Hill’s corps all
along.
I believe King Joseph’s gallantry in trying to seduce a young girl
at Salvatierra, the night of the battle of Vittoria, was mentioned
in a former letter by me. In this valley he performed a most noble
feat: after the dinner given him by his patron and the neighbours,
he permitted or ordered his servants to sweep off and carry away all
the utensils, table-cloths, spoons, &c. The Padré at Arriez, our last
place, told General Wimpfen that he had there carried off the sheets.
This is a noble exit; and all his suite were without a change of linen.
The papers taken at Vittoria make it appear that nearly a million of
property was taken after the battle—250,000_l._ in gold. Only about
one hundred and twenty thousand dollars have been paid into the chest.
Much was certainly plundered by the natives and soldiers: the latter
were offering nine dollars for a guinea, for the sake of carriage.
Lord Wellington, however, has his suspicions of pillage by the civil
departments; has heard various stories, also, of money taken on the
road back from Vittoria. I do not know what may come of this: I have
made out but little satisfactory as yet. One gentleman, however, whom
I examined yesterday intended to keep two thousand dollars. At the
same time, the understanding that this was all fair seems to be pretty
general.
Captain Brown was knocked off his horse by a sabre cut on the head and
taken prisoner, but as he had his sword left, he cut down his guard,
who was pricking him with his sword, and ran into our dragoons and
escaped, changing his own horse for a French one in the confusion.
Lieutenant-Colonel May had a musket-ball in his belly. It passed
through his double sash, his waistcoat, and pantaloons, and then, by
striking the button of his drawers, was so deadened as only to give him
a swelling the size of an egg, and he has been long with us again. I
dined with him at Arriez the day before yesterday.
In the skirmish on the 5th, at Berrueta, we had about twenty wounded.
The Spanish peasantry are a fine, stout, tall, well-made race of
mountaineers, and behaved that day with spirit. Several would act with
their firearms with our light troops, and brought in two prisoners; and
one set would go on with a picket of six of our cavalry, and when told
by Major Brotherton that they were acting foolishly, as he could not
protect or support them if the French cavalry turned on him, they said
they could run as fast as those French horses, and would not be caught
so. The rulers here have also been forward in offering supplies, a good
part of which, I believe, they were ordered to have collected by the
French, and by which collection we have profited.
More Portuguese troops and artillery are now passing this way. I
believe no English artillery has come this road. The Portuguese guns
are not so wide in the wheels, having been made for their own roads,
and are therefore more adapted to this.
_Irurita, Head-Quarters, July 9th._—Still here. The day before
yesterday, the 7th, the French showed fifteen thousand men in the Maya
pass, two leagues and a-half in front, a line of nearly two miles.
It took much time to climb the hills to turn this position. About
four, we got possession of a hill which had that effect; the French
saw their error, tried three times to recover it, drove back our men a
little, but it would not do; they just now will not stand against us. A
battalion of Caçadores behaved well, and drove them back once. A close
column of theirs was opposed on the hill by two columns of ours, the
39th; our fellows, when near, shouted and came down to the charge, and
the French were quickly off. It was dark, however, before the pass was
abandoned, and past eleven before Lord Wellington and his staff got
home to dinner, as he lost his way for some time in the fog, despising
guides, &c. Yesterday the French, in part, came back to a little
village near the pass, and stood some time against our light infantry;
but the third shot of our two guns which were brought to bear, sent
them scampering off. They little think that we have some eighteen
field-pieces in this valley.
Yesterday Lord Wellington came in early, and left the French in another
pass in the last Spanish village. They were, I hear, to be driven
out to-day unless they retired. They had yesterday, however, nearly
succeeded in surprising some of our men. They appeared in rear of
our advanced troops, through a pass on our right, which communicates
with the Roncesvalles pass to St. Jean Pied de Port, drove in a small
picket, and came, about fifty of them, down very nearly to a village
in which we had much baggage. The peasants said they had five hundred
men there: they however went back again, and one of our serjeants,
by himself, caught one of the stragglers when the others were gone.
Just then there was only a small body of cavalry between their party
and our baggage, and even between them and our head-quarters here.
This was soon looked to, and a Caçadore regiment ordered into the
neighbouring village. The peasants here continue to behave with great
spirit and activity, and want to enter France to take some revenge.
They had been told by the French that we were ten times worse in regard
to plundering, &c., than themselves, and so the French are told now.
The French respect their own people, and do not treat them like the
Spaniards. In Spain a French encampment was covered with all the doors,
window-shutters, beams, trees, &c., of the Spanish villages near; in
France, though in rain, they are now seen without any such shelter on
the bare ground.
The French peasants in these parts, I hear, are as fine men as the
Spaniards here, and formidable. If we enter France, we must not wander
and ride about as we do here, nor let our baggage cover leagues
in extent. It is said that they disposed of four of our soldiers,
Portuguese I believe, whom they caught stealing cherries. I do not
think head-quarters will enter France, here at least, but enter down
towards the sea: this is, however, only my speculation. General Byng
sent an invitation yesterday to dine with him in France. The Spanish
troops are in France in part also.
The day before yesterday Lord Wellington ordered young Fitzclarence to
go and bring up two Portuguese companies to attack. He went. It was
close by; but he was highly pleased with the order. When he had given
his instructions, he saw a cherry-tree, and went up to break a bough
off, and eat the cherries. When Lord Wellington lost his way the other
night in the fog (returning to head-quarters), Fitzclarence told Lord
Wellington he was sure the road was so-and-so, as they had passed the
place where he found the two Portuguese companies. “How do you know
that?” quoth Lord Wellington. “By that cherry-tree, which I was up in
just afterwards,” was the answer. It amused Lord Wellington much; and
yesterday he called to him, with a very grave face, and desired him to
go and get some of the cherries, as if it were an important order. I
believe we only lost about seventy men killed and wounded, Portuguese
and all included, on the 7th.
I misinformed you some time since about General Jeron, the Commander of
the Gallician army. I understand he was not named at the suggestion of
Wellington; there are two opinions about him.
We have had stories against several of the civil departments in regard
to the plunder. One or two I have saved from suspicion by an immediate
inquiry and explanation, which I stated to Lord Wellington directly.
It is always best to know the whole openly at once, as ten suffer
in reputation from reports for one really guilty. One Commissary, I
believe, will have leave to resign.
Yesterday the chimney of the house of Lord Wellington’s patron was on
fire, from the dressing of Lord Wellington’s dinner. I was much afraid
that it would spread and complete the poor man’s ruin, by destroying
nearly all he had left. It was with difficulty at last put out, when
the fire-bell had collected all the town buckets full of water, and
a wet blanket had been pushed down the chimney, which, being half
wood, made the event very uncertain. I was really glad when it was put
out. Lord Wellington was out in the rain with his hat off, and a silk
handkerchief over his head, giving directions, as well as your humble
servant.
P.S.—_Head-Quarters, Zobieta, July 10th._—We arrived here this morning,
in the direction I expected, about four leagues from Irurita, on the
road to St. Sebastian, through a very pretty wooded valley all the way,
the road good, and by the river side, with villages every two miles.
We passed St. Estevan, the largest place, and perhaps the only one
you will find in any map, except Lopez’ provincial ones. Some of the
other villages were large, containing some thirty or forty good large
farm-houses, and some mansions. The light division was dispersed on
the road, and in one village I found George Belson and his artillery. I
do not, however, expect to hear any more of him for some time, as he is
not likely to follow us any farther, from what I am told of the road.
To-morrow head-quarters move eight or nine leagues of mountain track
road through Gaygueta to Ernani, in parts it is said scarcely passable
for a mule; so at least Colonel Ponsonby reports, who came last night
from Ernani. In consequence of this account, civil departments and
baggage are, if they choose, to stop at Gaygueta, which is half way. At
Ernani we are on the high road to Bayonne from Vittoria. Something is
now, I believe, going on at St. Sebastian. I understand a convent near
it was to be attempted to-day or to-morrow, preparatory to the grand
attempt. The heavy guns are, I believe, landed, and are, it is said, at
Deba for this siege. The garrison is two thousand strong, about sixteen
hundred of their own, and four hundred from another fort near, now
blown up. Santona is left with a strong garrison, and well supplied,
and would be a more difficult affair, from what I learn. Pancorvo was
taken by O’Donnell and the Spaniards: they took an outwork by storm,
and the men then surrendered.
Pamplona is more closely invested by means of some redoubts, and I
believe nothing more will be done there. These redoubts will be of
use, if this undertaking is left to the Spaniards. Though we have thus
to-day gone away from France, I conclude we, or rather some of the
army, are to be within France soon, as Lord Wellington has published
some long and good general orders on the subject of well treating the
people, &c., and not copying the French in Portugal and Spain, as we
are at war with Bonaparte, and not with the inhabitants, and that
_recevos_ are to be given for supplies, &c. Still I think we shall
only keep on the frontiers. Clausel, it would appear from the Spanish
authorities, has, since we left him, made off for France by the great
Tacca pass in Arragon, instead of joining Suchet, as I supposed, and
Suchet was at Tortosa when last heard of. Zobieta is but a miserable
place, and the people quite unintelligible. We shall soon be in Biscay
again.
_Head-Quarters, Ernani, July 16th, 1813._—My last was from Zobieta, a
little village in the lower Pyrenees. Our next day was a tremendous
journey to this place. I started at six o’clock in the morning, and we
immediately began to ascend near the bed of the stream, which ran by
Zobieta towards its source, in order to cross the mountain at the back
of the town, which divides that valley from the one in which the river
is situated, which runs down by this place to St. Sebastian.
In less than half a mile the road became choked with baggage. There was
only one path winding zigzag up the hill, and every mule whose load
got more on one side, or out of order, discomposed and stopped the
string. I had one mule lightly loaded, and my man, foolishly eager to
get forwards, led it up straight from one path to the cross one above,
instead of following the track. He got on safely, but this tempted
three of Colonel Dundas’s mules to do the same. Just as I passed below,
the hinder one fell backwards, with a heavy load, and the whole three
being tied together, he pulled both the others down upon him, and they
all lay in a heap at my feet kicking in the path. With some difficulty
I got an ass out of the way in time, and scrambled upon foot, leading
my horse to get away, that I might not be pushed down the side of the
hill; by this means I also gained ground, and by continuing on foot for
about two miles of the steepest ascent, I got up tolerably quick. Two
of General Murray’s mules rolled into the river below.
We then continued to the highest point of the mountain, whence we were
told Bayonne was visible. When we arrived the fog was so thick that
we could not see a yard, and we went on two leagues more in this mist
through the clouds, along the top and side of the hill, until we got
over Gaygueta. Then we had a very bad descent of about two miles to
that place. Near the town we passed General Longa and his suite going
to meet Lord Wellington, and we found the town full of his troops all
drawn up to receive the English General. They looked very well, fine
men, tolerably well dressed and equipped; about five thousand in the
whole. One grenadier company looked very fierce and military.
I here found every quarter occupied, and could hear of none; after
waiting an hour, I determined to proceed. After an ascent of about half
a league again, very steep, we went along the top of a hill for another
half league to Eranos; here I found another thousand of Longa’s troops,
and all the houses occupied. I therefore went to a shop where they sold
bread and wine, and we got a large loaf and some wine, which, with the
help of the horses, for whose sake I principally stopped to procure
this feed, we soon finished, and then proceeded refreshed.
Whilst I was thus employed Lord Wellington and his staff passed. I was
sorry to hear Longa had missed him, and that he was much mortified
at this, especially as his men scarcely knew Lord Wellington and his
party, and he had almost passed before they irregularly presented
arms to him. The one thousand men at Eranos were more fortunate, for
at a hazard I told them, when they inquired, that he would pass in
about twenty minutes, and he actually passed within the half hour. I
followed in Lord Wellington’s train to this place, Ernani, over a road
still worse than the last, a mere water-channel, with irregular broken
steps and slippery clay; most of our horses got more or less on their
haunches. The road ran up and down on the side of a thick wooded hill
on the banks of the river, near which we saw two or three works for
iron, in which this country abounds.
We arrived safely, about four o’clock; very little baggage got in that
night. All mine came in by seven o’clock, except one mule load and
man, who stuck, knocked up, at a house two miles back. I bought some
eggs and bacon and went to bed. About eight, next day, my stragglers
arrived, the mules strained in the shoulder and scarcely able to move.
Dr. M’Gregor had two mules killed down the mountain, and many have
suffered as well as myself.
The next morning after my arrival at Ernani, I walked off to see what
was going on at St. Sebastian. Not knowing how long we might be here,
my horses being tired, and having no shoes, I made this survey on
foot. The road is a wide _camina real_, a rough sort of pavement, but
a good road. About half a league distant I saw the fort or citadel of
St. Sebastian, and the smoke of the guns, the noise of which I had
heard before. I proceeded on by our heavy guns, which were near on the
road side, passed about four thousand Spanish troops of the Gallician
army drawn up to receive Lord Wellington, and then our reserve park
of artillery, with some small works around. Here I began to hear the
distant whistle of the balls, which occasionally got near the road.
At about a league from Ernani, just at the brow of the descent to St.
Sebastian, and about half a mile from the latter, a barrier of tubs
of earth was placed across the road and sentries posted, our advanced
sentry being at a turn of the road a hundred yards forwards. I went
to the left to take a sketch, and soon heard a musket-ball whistle by
me, which I took at first for a rocket behind me. I thought this an
accident, but soon came a second, and a third. I then concluded that
I was the object, and leaving my sketch rather in a hasty unfinished
state, I returned behind the barrels as the last shot came into a bush
close to me.
Our trenches were open about fifty yards to the right, against a
convent on the side of the hill, which was full of French, and from
which almost all the musket-shots proceeded. I determined just to peep
into them before I went off, and having been cautioned how to proceed,
I looked in: but having had one more shot whistle close to me, and
passed a bloody hole where a shell had just fallen, which had carried
away a man’s arm, I walked home, to dine at Lord Wellington’s at three
o’clock. At dinner I met Castanos, Jeron, Alava, Mendizabel, and a
number of inferior officers, amongst them the Major who had been left
as a Captain to defend Villa Alba de Tormes, when we retreated last
year, and who held out the time he was ordered to remain, and brought
off two hundred out of three hundred of his men to Frenada. For this
he was made a Major, I believe, at Lord Wellington’s request. General
Alava also introduced an officer who came to present to Lord Wellington
King Joseph’s sword—his dress sword set in steel and diamonds, and very
handsome. Where taken from, or whence obtained, I did not learn. Lord
Wellington just looked at it as he took his seat at dinner, and telling
his man to put it by safely somewhere, fell to at the soup and said no
more.
On the following day the alarm was spread that we were all to go back
to the mountains the next day by the same road. At last, however,
orders came out that Lord Wellington was going, and that only his
immediate staff, and those who could be very useful, were to attend
him. Even General Murray, the Quarter-Master-general, the life and
soul of the army next to Lord Wellington, staid here, not being quite
well. He appears to me decidedly the second man; and it is thought that
without him, and perhaps Kennedy, the Commissary-in-Chief, we could
never have done what we have; even Lord Wellington would be, in some
degree, fettered and disabled by a bad Quarter-Master-general and a bad
Commissary-general.
Not to lose a day, Lord Wellington, the first day he was here, rode
all about St. Sebastian to examine it in all directions, &c., and was
provoked at the Spaniards parading for him, when his object was to
be unobserved. The second day he went to Irun, on the frontiers, on
the Bidassoa, to see how things were going on there. The day before
yesterday, having waited till eight o’clock (morning), just to receive
the “_Gazette_,” with his battle despatches and his appointment of
Field Marshal, away he went, nine leagues over the mountains, for St.
Estevan. He is going to see more of the mountain passes that way, and
says that he shall be back the fourth day, if possible, though many
think it impossible.
We have heard of Lord Wellington eating some trout at Gaygueta at
twelve, and arriving at St. Estevan at five, the day he left this.
All baggage nearly is left here. The day he went I was occupied all
day, by his desire, in examining some gentlemen on a report which had
got about concerning some of the captured money, which report Lord
Wellington had been caught by, and had suspicions. I hope I have sent
a very satisfactory explanation. To me it is so, at least. I sent it
off by express the same night to General Pakenham, who is with Lord
Wellington on his tour. One idle day, since I have been here, I went
to see Passages, about five miles distant, but an infamous road. There
are two towns of that name, the Spanish and French, as they are called;
one on each side of a narrow deep stream, or inlet from the sea, which
forms rather a picturesque basin within. I should have thought more of
it had I not seen Exmouth, Dartmouth, and some other western English
scenery of the same land first, which I think superior. The towns
were built with the same kind of narrow alleys, only fit for a horse
to pass through; these standing up the side of the hills. They were,
however, a better description of houses, and four stories high, with
balconies. The scene was more enlivened than usual by our transports,
by the landing of biscuit, rum, shot, ammunition, the twenty-four
pounders from Sir George Collier’s ship, and other great guns, with
their apparatus, for the siege; two Portuguese regiments at work, and
about three hundred mules, besides the oxen, &c., for the guns: gabions
and fascines were making in every direction by the Portuguese. The road
was so narrow and slippery in one place, that my horse, as I led him,
nearly slipped into the sea.
Yesterday, having a few hours again to spare, I went round to look at
St. Sebastian by the right, where I witnessed a sharp conflict, and
saw more than I had done before, with much less risk. I was out of the
way of the musketry, and only had one cannon-shot, which went over the
intended mark from the town, and, whistling along, dashed into the
water just under me. It was nearly spent, as I heard it, I think, long
enough to have got out of the way had it come up higher. If it clears
up to-day, I mean to go to the lighthouse, on the left of the town, or
the cliff, where it is said the view is very fine, and where, with a
glass, you see much and in safety.
There was almost as much firing yesterday as in a battle, cannon-shot
and musketry, particularly on the French part, and many shells; and we
made a feint to obtain the convent with only a few men, yet I hear that
only four were killed on our side, and about ten wounded.
The convent is almost in ruins, but we have in vain tried to burn it
with hot shot, and the French continue to pepper from it. A shell of
ours fell amongst their men in a redoubt in rear of the convent, and
they ran. I believe this led to our attempt, but it was soon found that
they were strong just behind, and several men still in the convent; and
three new parties were pushed along the causeway from the town—about
two hundred and fifty men—to strengthen the convent party. Ours,
therefore, were off very quickly, not being supported. One shell of
ours fell just into one of the three new parties, and killed one man
and dispersed the rest. Several wounded French were seen carried back
over the causeway and bridge. The number of cannon in the town is very
considerable; and though our works proceed fast, the town is considered
formidable.
I have heard more stories of King Joseph from the Paymaster of his
head-quarters, Mr. Frayre, who was taken. He said that the King was in
the town until our dragoons were close upon it. He then rode quietly
along, through the train of carriages and baggage, with Jourdan and
his guard in a walk, in order not to give any alarm, until he was out
of the bustle. He then changed his coat for a nankeen jacket, and
away they all went, galloping off for Salvatierra, on the road to
Pamplona. In the first village, a mile or two from Vittoria, there are
two turnings, and he was heard to call out, “_Par où faut-il aller?_”
“_Tout droit, tout droit_,” said Jourdan, and away they went again as
hard as they could go. Of the twenty-seven Generals who met in the
house at Salvatierra, a great proportion were slightly wounded, and
their greetings at seeing each other alive were very loud and sincere.
Joseph’s servant had a sort of saddle-bag with him for the King, and
that was all their baggage.
I hear that there are two millions of dollars on the road. Just now we
are without anything in our military chest to pay for our daily food
and expenses, which are very great. Corn for our horses, we got none.
Bread is not dear here, or scarce, as yet. Bullocks, I hear, we have
bought enough for nearly forty days for the army, in this part of the
country, mostly from the mountains. Nine hundred head have been bought
within these ten days.
_Head-Quarters, Lezaca, July 18th, 1813._—On the 16th I went up to
the lighthouse in the evening. I met Baron Constans coming down.
The French did him the honour of a cannon-shot, a proof they were
touchy. I proceeded within half musket-shot, but at a trot, and they
left me quiet. I stayed an hour on the hill; view beautiful, evening
clear, scene very interesting. I saw all the French sentries, troops,
inhabitants, &c., in the town, and on the island near, in the convent,
redoubt, &c. I could see our advanced sentinels and pickets, and those
of the French near the convent, within sixty yards of each other in
some places, behind ruins, &c. I could also see a long extent of French
coast, and many other objects. The ruined convent, and the French
sticking to it in several parts and firing, was, however, the most
curious and novel.
I came down at seven and rode home quietly by nine in the dark; when,
lo! I found an order for head-quarters, baggage, &c., to join Lord
Wellington at this place on the mountains, on the frontiers, six
leagues of bad road distant.
I was off, however, by eight yesterday morning, baggage and all. The
first two leagues were by the high French road, the _camina real_,
through Astigarraja and Oyarzun. At the end of the last town we turned
from the great road, which is a broad, well-laid road, and has been
very good, though now broken up a little, and very rough. We then went
along a paved mountain road, up a valley for half a league, and then
began climbing a mountain path over two long hills until we got into
this valley, and to this place. There is a great sameness in the
scenery—round hills, wooded in part below and a stream—nothing very
fine. About a league from hence we saw the camp of the 95th regiment,
on a hill above Vera, which is lower down in this valley, and near the
immediate frontier division. We also saw the seventh division camp near
and the French cantonment bivouac on the opposite hill; for a short
time they kept half Bera or Vera; now we have the whole.
We halt here at Lezaca to-day; the Commissariat baggage is ordered a
league and a half in the rear in case of an attack. I believe when
reinforcements arrive we shall make one. I was sorry to leave St.
Sebastian, for an attack was to be made that morning. We heard and
saw a violent firing throughout all our route, and I last night heard
that the convent had been taken by our men, and some ruins below, &c.,
and that the new battery had been opened. The French stood firm when
the Portuguese advanced, who behaved very well, but when the English
regiment which had been ordered up to assist was seen advancing, the
sight of the red coats made the French soldiers run, and the French
officers were seen in vain beating and pelting them to make them stand.
The causeway (as I had seen) below was cut by the French in two places.
This stopped our men for a time, and the French attempted to return,
but did not succeed; thus matters stood last night. Some of the first
division returned from Oyarzun yesterday to help, and we met them on
the road. The French surprised about one hundred of the Spaniards in
this place a few days since. The noble inhabitants of Saragossa have
contrived to open one of their gates, when the French were in the town,
and to let in Mina and his men. The Spaniards now have the town. I
believe the French still stick to a fortified part, and have destroyed
the bridge; this comes from the English Captain who is with Mina, and
employed in procuring intelligence. A flag of truce was sent in to
the French, carried by Colonel Gordon, this morning—“_Pourquoi?_” “_Je
ne’en sais rien._” Lezaca is rather a good village, and has a running
stream in it, which might be more used. It was plundered by the French,
and now contains nothing, no bread even, only some straw; and we have
now been seven days without corn for the poor horses; even grass is
here very scarce: we want the course of the Bidassoa to keep up our
communications with Irun, &c. The French now interrupt this—the river
runs in part through France.
Soult, the great Soult, the Marshal, is said to have arrived, and taken
the command against the allies: so say the country people, &c. To-day
it is very hot. A report is circulated that the French have attacked
us. So adieu for the present.
_July 19th, Lezaca._—No fresh news. I am going to ride up a hill, a
league off, to the seventh division camp, from whence Bayonne and much
of France is visible.
FOOTNOTES:
[4] Mr. Larpent’s opinion on the moral deficiency of the English
soldier has astonished many; but it should be remembered that he was a
non-combatant, and his professional practice as Judge-Advocate-general
brought him more in contact with the _delinquents_ than with the real
steady soldiers of the army. Let any reader who inclines to think
that the French can outmarch the more robust English, remember the
advance of the light division to Talavera under General R. Craufurd,
so justly eulogized in Napier’s History. An English soldier becomes
sulky, careless, and insubordinate in a _retreat_; but let a battle be
announced, and spirit and discipline reappear together. Witness the
conduct of Sir John Moore’s army, when he offered battle at Lugo, and
afterwards when he was attacked at Corunna.—ED.