This day we were to begin our EQUITATION, as I said; for _I_ would
needs make a word too. It is remarkable, that my noble, and to me most
constant friend, the Earl of Pembroke (who, if there is too much ease
on my part, will please to pardon what his benevolent, gay, social
intercourse, and lively correspondence, have insensibly produced) has
since hit upon the very same word. The title of the first edition of
his lordship's very useful book was, in simple terms, A Method of
Breaking Horses and Teaching Soldiers to Ride. The title of the second
edition is, Military Equitation.
We might have taken a chaise to Fort Augustus, but, had we not hired
horses at Inverness, we should not have found them afterwards: so we
resolved to begin here to ride. We had three horses, for Dr Johnson,
myself, and Joseph, and one which carried our portmanteaus, and two
Highlanders who walked along with us, John Hay and Lauchland Vass,
whom Dr Johnson has remembered with credit in his Journey, though he
has omitted their names. Dr Johnson rode very well.
About three miles beyond Inverness, we saw, just by the road, a very
complete specimen of what is called a Druid's temple. There was a
double circle, one of very large, the other of smaller stones. Dr
Johnson justly observed, that, 'to go and see one druidical temple is
only to see that it is nothing, for there is neither art nor power in
it; and seeing one is quite enough'.
It was a delightful day. Lochness, and the road upon the side of it,
shaded with birch trees, and the hills above it, pleased us much. The
scene was as sequestered and agreeably wild as could be desired, and
for a time engrossed all our attention.
To see Dr Johnson in any new situation is always an interesting object
to me; and, as I saw him now for the first time on horseback, jaunting
about at his ease in quest of pleasure and novelty, the very different
occupations of his former laborious life, his admirable productions,
his London, his Rambler, &c. &c. immediately presented themselves to
my mind, and the contrast made a strong impression on my imagination.
When we had advanced a good way by the side of Lochness, I perceived a
little hut, with an old looking woman at the door of it. I thought
here might be a scene that would amuse Dr Johnson: so I mentioned it
to him. 'Let's go in,' said he. We dismounted, and we and our guides
entered the hut. It was a wretched little hovel of earth only, I
think, and for a window had only a small hole, which was stopped with
a piece of turf, that was taken out occasionally to let in light. In
the middle of the room or space which we entered, was a fire of peat,
the smoke going out at a hole in the roof. She had a pot upon it, with
goat's flesh, boiling. There was at one end under the same roof, but
divided by a kind of partition made of wattles, a pen or fold in which
we saw a good many kids.
Dr Johnson was curious to know where she slept. I asked one of the
guides, who questioned her in Erse. She answered with a tone of
emotion, saying (as he told us) she was afraid we wanted to go to bed
to her. This coquetry, or whatever it may be called, of so wretched a
being, was truly ludicrous. Dr Johnson and I afterwards were merry
upon it. I said, it was he who alarmed the poor woman's virtue. 'No,
sir,' said he, 'she'll say, '"There came a wicked young fellow, a wild
dog, who I believe would have ravished me, had there not been with him
a grave old gentleman, who repressed him: but when he gets out of the
sight of his tutor, I'll warrant you he'll spare no woman he meets,
young or old."' 'No, sir,' I replied, 'she'll say, "There was a
terrible ruffian who would have forced me, had it not been for a civil
decent young man who, I take it, was an angel sent from heaven to
protect me."'
Dr Johnson would not hurt her delicacy, by insisting on 'seeing her
bedchamber', like Archer in The Beaux' Stratagem. But my curiosity was
more ardent; I lighted a piece of paper, and went into the place where
the bed was. There was a little partition of wicker, rather more
neatly done than that for the fold, and close by the wall was a kind
of bedstead of wood with heath upon it by way of bed; at the foot of
which I saw some sort of blankets or covering rolled up in a heap. The
woman's name was Fraser; so was her husband's. He was a man of eighty.
Mr Fraser of Balnain allows him to live in this hut, and keep sixty
goats, for taking care of his woods, where he then was. They had five
children, the eldest only thirteen. Two were gone to Inverness to buy
meal; the rest were looking after the goats. This contented family had
four stacks of barley, twenty-four sheaves in each. They had a few
fowls. We were informed that they lived all the spring without meal,
upon milk and curds and whey alone. What they get for their goats,
kids, and fowls, maintains them during the rest of the year.
She asked us to sit down and take a dram. I saw one chair. She said
she was as happy as any woman in Scotland. She could hardly speak any
English except a few detached words. Dr Johnson was pleased at seeing,
for the first time, such a state of human life. She asked for snuff.
It is her luxury, and she uses a great deal. We had none; but gave her
six pence a piece. She then brought out her whisky bottle. I tasted
it; as did Joseph and our guides: so I gave her sixpence more. She
sent us away with many prayers in Erse.
We dined at a publick house called the General's Hut, from General
Wade, who was lodged there when he commanded in the North. Near it is
the meanest parish kirk I ever saw. It is a shame it should be on a
high road. After dinner, we passed through a good deal of mountainous
country. I had known Mr Trapaud, the deputy governour of Fort
Augustus, twelve years ago, at a circuit at Inverness, where my father
was judge. I sent forward one of our guides, and Joseph, with a card
to him, that he might know Dr Johnson and I were coming up, leaving it
to him to invite us or not. It was dark when we arrived. The inn was
wretched. Government ought to build one, or give the resident
governour an additional salary; as in the present state of things, he
must necessarily be put to a great expence in entertaining travellers.
Joseph announced to us, when we alighted, that the governour waited
for us at the gate of the fort. We walked to it. He met us, and with
much civility conducted us to his house. It was comfortable to find
ourselves in a well built little square, and a neatly furnished house,
in good company, and with a good supper before us; in short, with all
the conveniencies of civilized life in the midst of rude mountains.
Mrs Trapaud, and the governour's daughter, and her husband. Captain
Newmarsh, were all most obliging and polite. The governour had
excellent animal spirits, the conversation of a soldier, and somewhat
of a Frenchman, to which his extraction entitles him. He is brother to
General Cyrus Trapaud. We passed a very agreeable evening.