It sometimes occurs that _Hyacinths_ and other bulbous roots that were
planted in the fall, are thrown above ground by the frost. This will
take place if the soil is inclined to moisture, and they not being deep
enough planted. If such is the case, cover them with wood earth, old
decayed tan, or soil, whichever is most convenient; if not done, the sun
and air overpower the bulbs, and, although the fibres have hold of the
ground, the flowers will be miserably weak. _Hyacinth_ bulbs, and many
others of Holland, are very hardy. Even exposure to our severest frosts
would not kill them, but they would be much weakened.
OF FRAMING, &c.
Where a frame or hotbed is wanted to grow some of the finest and more
tender annuals, it is time, about the 20th of the month, to collect and
prepare manure for the desired hotbed. And, as that operation, in many
instances, is very imperfectly performed, a few observations on the
subject may be useful.
Take three parts of fresh hot stable manure, with one part of fresh oak
leaves. Have a sufficient quantity to make the intended bed or beds from
three to four feet high. Shake and mix up both together in a compact
conical heap, in order to encourage fermentation. If the weather is cold
and windy, cover it with straw or leaves and boards, which is necessary
to produce the desired effect. If fermentation soon takes place, it will
need to be thoroughly turned over in eight or ten days. If any of it has
become dry and musty from excessive heat, as you proceed, water the
affected parts, pile all up neatly, and leave it protected in part as
before. In five or six days more, it will have to be turned again,
repeating it until the first extreme heat has been over. In neglect of
this, the heat, after making up the bed, will be vehement for a week or
two, frequently destroying the vegetative purity of the soil, and
proving destructive to the seeds.
Allowing the manure to come to a lively heat, having no unpleasant,
rancid smell, proceed to mark off your intended bed, running it east and
west as nearly as possible, measure your frame, and allow the site of
the bed eight inches each way larger than the frame: at the corners
place a stick or rod perpendicularly. The ground ought to be higher than
that around it, to prevent water from getting into the bed, which, if
low, must be filled up; or, if supposed that water may lodge there, a
little Brushwood might be put under the manure, which would keep it from
being inundated. The manure must be built up square and level, shaking,
mixing, and beating it regularly with the back of the fork. When you
have it to the desired height, (three feet will be sufficient for
annuals,) leave the centre of the bed a little higher than the sides,
thus allowing it more to subside. When finished, put on the frame and
sash or sashes, keep them close until the heat arises, covering them at
night with mats and shutters. As soon as you feel the heat increased,
give air by tilting the sashes a few inches to let off the steam and
stagnated air, observing to close in the afternoon, and cover at night.
If the heat is violent, about an inch of air might be left during the
night. In about three days, if all has been properly attended to, the
bed will be what is termed sweet. Then put in about six inches of fine
garden soil; if heavy, mix a little sand with it. Spread it level, and,
when the soil is heated through, sow in small drills from one eighth to
an inch deep, according to the size of the seeds. Some very small kinds
do best when sown upon the surface. When sown, give gentle sprinklings
of water until they come up, when it will be necessary to give air to
prevent them from being weak, or damping off, which many of them will do
if they have not air regularly admitted. When they begin to crowd, thin
them out, to allow those that remain to grow strong. It is better at all
times to have one strong, healthy plant, than two weak and sickly
objects.
=ROOMS.=
_FEBRUARY_.
At this season, the plants call for the most assiduous attention. If the
stage has been made according to our description, in very cold nights it
should be drawn to the centre of the room, or at least withdrawn from
the window, observing every night to close the window tight by shutters,
or some substitute equally as good. And, if the temperature begins to
fall below 34°, means should be adopted to prevent it, either by putting
a fire in the room, or opening any adjoining apartment where fire is
constantly kept. This latter method is the best where it is practicable,
and ought to be studied to be made so.
Some, very injudiciously, in extreme frosts put into the room, where
there is no chimney, amongst the plants, a furnace of charcoal, in order
to heat the room. The effect is, that the foliage becomes dark brown,
and hardened like, and many of the plants die, the rest not recovering
until summer.
Watering may be attended to according to the directions of January, only
observing that those that begin to grow will absorb a little more than
those that are dormant.
Roses, especially the Daily, if kept in the house, will begin to show
flower buds. Use means to kill the Green-fly that may attack them.
Hyacinths and other bulbs must have regular attendance in tying up, &c.
Take care not to tie them too tight, leaving sufficiency of space for
the stem to expand. Give those in the glasses their necessary supplies,
and keep them all near the light. Never keep bulbous roots while growing
under the shade of any other plant.
_Camellias_, with all their varied beauties, will, in this month, make a
splendid show. Adhere to the directions given in the previous month, and
so that new varieties may be obtained, (see _Green-house_, _February_,
under the head of _Camellia_,) which directions are equally applicable
here. When the flowers are full blown, and kept in a temperature between
34° and 44°, they will be perfect for the space of four, five, and
frequently six weeks, and a good selection of healthy plants will
continue to flower from December to April.
Be sure that there is air admitted at all favourable opportunities. Give
a little every day that there is sunshine, if it is only for a few
minutes.
=Hot-House.=
_MARCH_.
If this department has been regularly attended to, the plants will be in
a fresh healthy state. Where there is any sickly appearance, heat has
been deficient, or insects of a destructive character are preying upon
them. Too much water at the root frequently causes the foliage to become
yellow. It will add greatly to their general improvement, to syringe the
whole twice or three times a week, observing to do it in the morning
about sunrise; and it is highly necessary that the water that is used
should be of the same temperature as the house; and at all times,
whatever water is given to the roots, the same must be observed. For
airing, see last month, observing, as the season advances, to increase
the quantity.
Continue to fumigate when any of the Green-fly appears, (see _January_
for directions,) and where there are any of the plants infected with the
white scaly insect, clean them as there directed. If overlooked for a
few months, they will be increased tenfold. Very frequently, where there
are only a few, they are neglected until the plant is overrun with them,
and then it may be said, it is impossible to dislodge them entirely.
Clear off all decayed leaves from the plants. These will have made fresh
shoots, and the decayed leaves very much disfigure the whole collection.
We would not have repeated this observation, if it was not an essential
point, and one which is so frequently neglected.