Will, in this month, show a profusion of flowers; and, where there is a
variety, they have truly a magnificent appearance. From a good
selection, endless varieties, by seed, of exquisite beauty, might be
obtained by attention to the following rule. The best to select for
bearing seed are _Single white_, _Atoniana_, _Grandiflora_, _Waratah_,
_Carnation Waratah_, _Fulgens_, and, in many instances, the pistil, or
pistillum of _Variegata_, _Pompone_, _Pæoniflora_, and _Intermedia_, are
perfect, with several others. When any of the above are newly expanded,
(_Waratah_ is most perfect about one day before expansion,) take a fine
camel hair pencil, and put it gently on the farina or pollen, which is a
yellow substance on the anthers, and, when ripe, appears in thousands of
small particles. Take the finest double kinds, then, with this on the
pencil, rub lightly the stile of those intended to carry seed. Between
the hours of ten and twelve in the forenoon, is the most proper time for
the operation; the seed will be ripe in September or October, which will
be taken notice of, and directions given. For other particulars on
cleaning and syringing, see _January_ under this head.
OF SHIFTING &c.
The best time to repot _Camellias_, is just when they are done
flowering, which will be before they begin to grow. There are, though
not frequently, some flowers after the young foliage begins to appear,
and probably it would be better to discriminate the time by the buds
offering to push, which will answer to those that have no flowers, as
well as those that have. The most general time in shifting _Camellias_
is in August and September, indiscriminately with other plants; and, if
then not very gently handled, bad roots eventually are produced.
Frequently very fine plants have been killed by probing, and breaking
the young fibrous roots, thus causing mortification.
In the process, do not, by any means, break, or bruise any of the roots:
and do not give large pots, with the idea of making them grow fast: it
acts on most plants diametrically opposite to what is intended. A pot
one or one and a half inches wider and deeper than the one they have
been in previously, is sufficient. Healthy plants under five feet will
not require shifting oftener than once in two years; from five feet
upwards in three or four years, according to the health of the plants.
This treatment, in the opinion of some, will appear not sufficient: it
will be found enough with a top-dressing every year to keep them in a
healthy, flowering condition, the soil being according to our
description.
On turning the plant out of the pot, it may easily be observed if the
soil has, in any degree, been congenial to it; for if so, the roots will
be growing all round the ball; if otherwise, no roots will appear.
Therefore, with a blunt pointed stick, probe away all the bad earth,
until you come to the roots; then put the plant in the pot about one
inch in diameter, larger than the combined roots, previously putting a
few small pieces of broken pots, or clean gravel, to drain off the
superabundant moisture, and give light waterings, as the roots in this
case will grow but slowly.
Top dress all that requires shifting, probe out the soil down to the
roots, and by the side of the pot, taking care not to break the fibres;
then fill up with fresh earth, watering gently with a rose on the
watering pot to settle it.
OF CLEANING, &c.
If any of the plants require cleaning, either by fumigation or
otherwise, let it be done before the young foliage appears, according to
directions heretofore given. Likewise tie neatly all that require it,
clean and top dress those that will not be shifted, having every plant
and all in the Green-house, in perfect order, before the throng of
spring commences. The weather will now admit, in very fine mornings, of
the plants being syringed, which may be done between half past seven and
half past eight: and the path or pavement should be washed out once a
week, which is a great improvement to the appearance of the whole
interior.
In winter whenever any glass is broken it should be immediately mended.
Broken glass in cold nights causes a very destructive current of air. It
should always be made water tight, for if the drops fall into the pots
upon the roots, they will frequently prove fatal to the plants;
therefore care ought to be taken during rain to remove those that stand
in any manner exposed.
=Flower Garden.=
_FEBRUARY_.
Where the borders and beds were dug in the fall, and compost or a thin
coating of well decayed manure given, the advantage will now in part be
experienced. If the weather is open about the end of the month, the
pruning should be done with the utmost despatch; that all may be
prepared for a general dressing next month, and let nothing be delayed
which can now properly be accomplished, under the idea that there is
time enough.
OF PRUNING, &c.
Generally about the end of the month the very severe frosts are over;
and when none need be apprehended that would materially injure hardy
shrubs, they may freely be pruned of all dead branches, and the points
cut off such shoots as have been damaged by the winter. Most of shrubs
require nothing more than to be pruned of straggling, irregular, and
injured branches, or of suckers that rise round the root, observing that
they do not intermingle with each other. Never trim them up in a formal
manner. Regular shearing of shrubs and topiary work have been expelled
as unworthy of a taste the least improved by reflections on the beauty,
simplicity, and grandeur of nature. In fact, the pruning of deciduous
hardy shrubs should be done in such a manner as not to be observable
when the plants are covered with verdure. It may frequently be observed
in Flower-gardens, that roses and shrubs of every description are
indiscriminately cut with the shears, the _Amórphas_ and _Althèas_
sharing the same fate.
_Robínias_, _Colùteas_, _Cyticus_, _Rhús_, _Genístas_, with several of
the _Viburnums_, and many others, bear their flowers on the wood of last
year, and when thus sheared afford no gratification in flowering. And
those shrubs that thus flower on the shoots of last year are perhaps
worse to keep in regular order, than those to which the knife can be
freely applied; but good management while young will ensure handsome
free flowering plants.
Climbing shrubs, and others that are trained against outbuildings,
walls, or such as are sheltered thereby, and not now in danger of
suffering by frost, may be pruned and dressed. These should be neatly
trimmed, and the branches moderately thinned out, tying in all the
shoots straight and regular. Avoid at all times, if possible, the
crossing of any shoots.
There is not a shrub in the garden that agrees so well with close
cutting, as the _Althèa_, and all its varieties. These can be made
either bushes or trees, and kept at any desired height. Where the wood
of last year is cut to about two or three inches from the wood of the
former year, the young shoots of this year will produce the largest and
finest flowers, and likewise more profusely. When they have attained the
desired height, let them be kept in the most natural and handsome shape
that the taste of the operator can suggest. They will bear cutting to
any degree.
Honeysuckles of every description may with all freedom be trimmed,
providing the frost is not very severe. These are very frequently
allowed to become too crowded with wood, and then superficially sheared
or cut. The flowers would be much finer, and the bush handsomer, if they
were regularly thinned out, divesting them of all naked and superfluous
shoots. Of those that remain, shorten the shoots of last year. Where any
of the honeysuckle kind has become naked at the bottom, and flowering
only at the top of the trellis, or extremities of the shoots, one half
of the bush should be cut to within four inches of the ground. It will
throw out plenty of fine young wood, which give room for, and train them
straight, and to the full extent, during summer. These shoots will
flower profusely the following season, and in like manner, when thought
proper, the other half can be cut.
Roses of the hardy kinds (termed garden roses) that were not attended to
in November, should, if the weather permit, be dressed and pruned
forthwith. In small gardens, where these are generally attached to the
walls and fences, neatness should be a very particular object. If any of
such bushes have got strong and irregular, the most proper method to
bring them to order, will be to cut down each alternate shoot of the
bush to within a few inches of the surface, thereby renovating it, and,
in part, preserving the flowers. Those that are cut down will put out
several luxuriant shoots, which must be regularly tacked in, spreading
them in a fan shape. These, in another year, will flower well, when the
others may go through the same operation. Thus, in two or three years,
the bushes will have resumed a different, and more agreeable aspect. By
the above treatment, these ornaments of the garden will always have a
neat and healthful appearance, and the roses will be much finer. Where
they are intended for the borders, they should never be allowed to get
too high. In a border from four to six feet, they ought never to exceed
four feet at the back of the border, and in front, one foot, after being
pruned; they can be kept down by the above method. It is not advisable
to cut down rose bushes all at once, unless no regard is paid to
flowering. The roses that are in grass plats would have a superior
appearance in every respect, if they were kept and trimmed like small
trees. They may be of different sizes and heights, according to the
extent of the grass plat or clump. A single stem may arise from six
inches to six feet, with a head in proportion to the height of the stem.
Where it is necessary to have them above two feet, and likewise to carry
a good head, inoculation must be resorted to, which, in the months of
June and July, will be fully treated of. All under two feet (except the
weak growing kinds) will do on their own stems, taking care not to allow
shoots to arise from the bottom during the summer. For directions for
pruning climbing roses, see March and April.
OF PLANTING SHRUBS, &c.
As soon as the frost is out of the ground, these should be planted if
the soil is not too wet. Where soil is binding, upon no consideration
plant in it while wet, rather defer it until the end of March.
Shrubs, if they are well arranged, are the chief ornament, give the most
pleasure, and afford the greatest delight that we enjoy in our gardens.
Although they give no sort of nourishment, nor produce any edible
fruits, yet they are particularly grateful and conducive to our
enjoyments. Our walks in summer would be oppressive, but for their
agreeable shade; in the fall and winter, we would be left exposed to the
chilling winds, but for the shelter they afford.
Likewise they produce a great variety of flowers; a varied foliage, and
are standing ornaments that give no great trouble. In the character of
screens they are particularly useful, whether to hide disagreeable
objects, or as a guard against the weather; and for either of these
purposes, they can be planted nearer to the house than large trees. Or,
if they are planted in masses at a distance, they soon become agreeable
objects, frequently very much improve the scenery of the place, become
objects of utility as well as ornament, and, in such case, afford the
highest satisfaction. When formed so as to exclude offices from the view
of the house, or for sheltering the latter, or for connecting the house
with the garden, orchard, or any similar purpose, shrubs are both useful
and interesting.
Where many shrubs are to be planted, the disposing of them properly is a
matter of considerable importance to the future welfare of the whole;
and, whether deciduous or evergreens be mixed or grouped, that is,
indiscriminately planted together, or the evergreens planted by
themselves, as is frequently done, a regular and natural arrangement is
indispensable for establishing ornament.
Arranging, no doubt, depends very much on fancy; still, there ought
always to be plenty of evergreens planted, that the whole may be more
cheerful in winter.
If shrubberies were made to a great extent, the scenery would be much
more varied and characteristic by grouping judiciously than by
indiscriminately planting.
However, in small flower gardens and shrubberies, the latter has to be
adopted. In such places, tall growing kinds should never be introduced,
unless merely as a screen from some disagreeable object, for they crowd
and confuse the whole. The dwarf and more bushy sorts should be placed
next to the walks, or edges, in order that they may conceal the naked
stems of the others. Generally when shrubs are planted, they are small;
therefore, to have a good effect from the beginning, they should be
planted much thicker than they are intended to stand. When they have
grown a few years, and interfere with each other, they can be lifted,
and such as have died, or become sickly, replaced, and the remainder can
be planted in some other direction. Keep them always distinct, one from
another, in order that they may be the better shown off. But, if it is
not desired that they should be thicker planted than it is intended to
let them remain, the small growing kinds may be four or five feet apart;
the larger, or taller sorts, six or eight feet, according to the
condition of the soil.
Thick masses of shrubbery, called thickets, are sometimes wanted. In
these there should be plenty of evergreens. A mass of deciduous shrubs
has no imposing effect during winter; and, as this is not the proper
season for planting evergreens, (April and October being best,) small
stakes can be placed in the destined spot. Planting in rows, or in any
plan of a formal character, should at all times be avoided.
In planting at this season, observe that the roots are not much exposed
to the air, especially if the wind be high and sharp; but it is always
better, if possible, to defer the business until good, mild weather.
According to directions in November, the ground will be well prepared,
and only requires a hole dug for the reception of the roots, which must
be considerably larger, that the roots may not be in the least confined.
Break the earth well at bottom, put in as much as will receive the plant
from one to two inches (according to its size) lower than it has
previously been in the Nursery. If any of the roots are bruised or
broken, cut them off; then place the plant in the centre of the hole,
breaking fine all the soil that is put in, at the same time shaking the
stem a little, that the earth may mix with the roots when full up; press
all the soil down with the foot, that it may, in some degree,
consolidate about the roots, and support the plant. If it is tall, or
top heavy, put in a good stake for a support, and place a small, bandage
between the stake and stem of the plant, shrub, or tree, where the tie
is to be made, to prevent the bark from suffering by friction. Observe
always before planting, if the soil is not suitable, to supply that
which is congenial to the nature of the intended plant.
When shrubs or trees are to be carried to any distance, the roots should
be carefully kept from air, by tying damp moss, straw, or Russia mats
about them, as circumstances will admit; their success greatly depends
on due attention being paid to this.