CARE OF THE CAR
Many people have an impression that as long as a car runs all right no
care should be given to it. It is for this very reason we urge that a
careful inspection should be made at regular intervals. The matter of
going over the various parts, and examining the operative elements,
should be made a habit. Become thoroughly acquainted with the mechanism.
REGULAR INSPECTION A GOOD HABIT.--This is as much a duty, as to keep
the parts well oiled, or to supply it with water at proper intervals.
In the present high state of the art pertaining to the manufacture of
automobiles, the different parts are so made as to stand a great deal
of wear and hard usage, so that before they show any signs of giving
away, they will be worn down to the danger point.
THE BRAKE SHOE.--As an illustration, take the brake shoe. This may
work satisfactorily and efficiently for a long time, and you flatter
yourself that you have a perfect car in this respect. The next day it
gives out, and it is sure to be at the most critical moment. This is
the history of all breakdowns.
If an examination had been made a day or a week before, it would have
shown the worn condition, and permitted repair at that time when there
was ample opportunity.
FAMILIARITY WITH WORKING PARTS.--So with every other part of the car.
The fact that it is working well should encourage you to examine the
different parts to find the loose or worn elements. It will teach you
the weak spots. Familiarity with a car is an important element, and is
the most efficient training practice, especially for one who wishes to
acquire information and practical knowledge on this subject.
THE ENGINE.--There is nothing so vital as the engine. Several hours
given each month, or even an hour or two a week to overhauling it,
will amply repay you. The proper way is to do this inspection and
overhauling in a systematic way. One day one part can be examined, and
the next day another part made the subject of investigation.
CONNECTING RODS.--A loose bolt in one of the connecting rods, while it
may run along for a week or two, and cause no damage, is sure to cause
trouble unless arrested. The moment the connection of a wire begins to
loosen, it will never stop until it has severed the connection entirely.
In taking apart an engine every part should be cleaned as it is
removed, taking the utmost care of each pin, bolt, or nut. The walls
of the cylinders should be examined, the piston rings tested and note
whether they are worn.
VALVES.--Then the valves need testing separately, and reground if there
is the least indication of undue wear on one side more than on the
other, or if there is the least carbon coating apparent.
The best preparation for grinding them is a very fine emery, mixed with
a heavy lubricant, to which should be added a small amount of kerosene.
CAM-SHAFT.--When the cam-shaft is removed, note the marks, to see
where they register with the marks on the cam shaft gears. Familiarize
yourself with these details.
THE CLEARANCE.--Particularly examine the clearance between the valve
stem and plunger rod. If the clearance is too great, the exhaust valve
will open too late. A small clearance is necessary to allow for the
expansion of the valve stem.
CLUTCHES.--Some clutches are so arranged that they may be removed as
a whole; in others the separate parts may be taken out. If the latter
appears worn, replace it at once. Do not wait until necessity compels
you. Leather for this purpose should always be kept on hand, and the
old leathers used as patterns for cutting the new.
THE CLUTCH LEATHER.--When the leather wears down so the rivet heads
are in contact with the metal surface, they should be taken out, and
the leather countersunk, so that the new rivets will be deep enough to
clear contact. This is something which, at the time you are examining
the car, has not yet given any trouble, but the next day, if not
attended to, the clutch may refuse to release itself quickly, and you
are apt to wonder what the trouble may be.
RIVETS IN THE LEATHER.--Keep the rivet heads free of metallic contact.
This, and care in putting on the leather evenly will make a clutch that
is sure to give you efficient service. If it does not grip quickly
after the foot releases it, the spring is not at proper tension. On the
other hand, the spring should not be too strong, and to push back the
foot with too great force, because this will set the clutch, and give
the car an unpleasant jerk.
TRANSMISSION SYSTEM.--The transmission system should be examined at
frequent intervals. The main thing is to note the ball bearings, and
to remove old grease which has accumulated there. All ball bearings,
however made, and applied, have more or less of a grinding effect. As a
result, small particles of iron are cut off from the contact surfaces,
which is indicated by the fact that the grease is discolored, or
blackened.
The grease which is allowed to remain in the case for a long time has
these small particles in contact with the balls and runways, and is
sure to wear more than new grease. Plumbago in the grease will be of
great service in aiding to coat the balls with a good surface.
These remarks as to the removal of old grease is desirable wherever
ball bearings are employed. The gears in the case should also be
examined to ascertain whether the edges are chipped, or what the
wearing action is.
THE DIFFERENTIAL.--This also requires care, but carelessness in
lubrication is the only feature lacking in so many cars, and it is the
most frequent shortcoming with the novice. The differential seems to be
the one part of a car which, in his estimation, requires no attention.
If there is any play between the pinions and the studs, it should be
promptly taken up. This can be done, usually, by inserting washers of
proper thickness behind the gears, in cases where no provision has been
made for adjustment.
UNIVERSAL JOINTS.--The wearing points of the universal are in the pins.
These are susceptible of a great deal of wearing down before the facts
will make themselves known in the operation of the machine, hence the
necessity of examining this part when you are on an inspecting tour.
STEERING GEAR.--The steering gear should be taken apart, and every
working portion cleaned. The ball-bearings may be worn, or the joint
out of adjustment, to which the stiffness of the turning movement is
likely due.
WORM AND WORM WHEEL.--When wear begins between the worm and worm
wheel, there is a looseness apparent, so that the steering wheel must,
sometimes make a considerable part of a turn before the effect will be
apparent on the wheels. This should be taken up so the wheels will be
in full mesh.
The rod from the sector lever to the pedal should be taken off and
examined, to see whether or not it is bent, and properly adjusted as to
length.
BATTERIES.--These need inspection and attention more frequently than
any other part of the mechanism. It is often the case that a battery,
particularly storage batteries, will show strong amperage, and suddenly
give out entirely.
THE VIBRATOR.--When such is the case it may be attributable to the
contact point of the vibrator having too heavy an adjustment, and as
a result, it will be less responsive, or be slow in its action. This
causes corrosion of the contact points. In action the vibrator should
give a high-pitched buzzing sound, which produces a hotter spark, and
also preserves the life of the battery.
THE ELECTROLYTE.--The electrolyte in the storage battery may need
refilling. The old liquid should be removed, the case thoroughly washed
out with distilled water, and refilled, using about three quarters of
the old liquid, and the residue soft fresh water.
Replace buckled or injured grids with new ones. If a plate has a
considerable portion of the minim, or lead, broken or removed, it is
always well to take it out and put in a new one as the grid in such a
case has a reduced surface.
CONTACT POINTS.--Examine all contact points, and clear the air vents
and terminals, and particularly note how the wires are arranged within
the case, so they will not be subjected to vibration and thus affect
the terminals.
The utmost care should be exercised to line up the valves so they act
at the proper time in the revolution of the crank shaft. Usually the
inlet valve plunger has a lock-nut adjustment, so that it may be set at
the proper point.
The points are indicated on the fly wheel and engine base, and when
they coincide with, say cylinder No. 1, which is usually taken as the
guide, the contact must be made between the valve-stem and plunger.
If you find that the contact takes place before the two points are
opposite each other, the valves open too early.
THE MAGNETO.--The only difference between the magneto and the battery
system, as applied on cars, is in the method of obtaining the primary
current. The magneto dispenses with the battery cells, the coil, the
commutator, or contact breaker, which must be used with the battery,
and the switching plug.
Instead of the foregoing elements however, the magneto requires a
contact breaker, and a condenser. It is, therefore, much more simple to
examine and keep in order, than a battery outfit. The magneto, owing
to the fact that it always has within itself the means to generate a
current, and does not deplete itself, is far preferable to a battery.
Owing to the high tension character of most magnetos, the spark is also
much hotter, and for that reason the ignition is more positive.
MAGNETO IMPULSES.--As the magneto gives out impulses of certain
intensity at each revolution, which impulses are designed to actuate
the sparking mechanism at certain definite periods, it is obvious that
the contact breaker must be properly set.
TIMING THE MAGNETO.--This is what is called _timing_ the magneto, and
it is one of the things necessary to observe, and to be able to adjust,
if it is found that, for any reason, the disk, or the wheel of the
contact breaker has turned on the shaft, as will sometimes be the case.
All mechanism of this kind should be “spotted,” that is, have punch
marks on the disk and shaft so that it can always be put back to the
proper operative position, or nearly so, and thus save the time and
labor required for retiming.
In general, however, it may be said that the magneto is one of the
mechanical elements, which needs less care and attention than any other
part of the car, and it is safe to examine and go through every other
part of the machinery before attempting to tamper with the magneto.
THE CARBURETER.--In the past carbureters have had a bad reputation,
probably, deservedly so. The great difficulty with most of them has
been in the floats, and the float connections with the inlets. This,
and the fact that small particles, which somehow get into the oil, and
block the flow at the needle point, and the presence of water, are the
serious troubles.
One can be remedied only by a thorough overhauling, and the other by
using special care in filling the tank with fuel. The float chamber
should be kept clean, as well as the ducts and valve controlling the
flow.
Sometimes a small fiber will be lodged somewhere in the pipes, and
this will catch small particles, and temporarily arrest them. The
accumulated mass when dislodged blocks the valve, and the mystery seems
inexplainable.
_Wrong adjustment_ in a carbureter manifests itself in three ways: If
the smoke is black, and the flame is red, the mixture is too rich;
a yellow flame indicates a lean mixture; and a blue flame and clear
exhaust shows that it is properly set.
If an explosion takes place in the muffler, it is an indication
that gasoline, or the vapor, has been carried over; and white smoke
discharging from it shows that there is too much lubricating material
going into the cylinders.
_Weather_ will affect mixtures, and more air is generally required on
a hot day than during damp weather. This explains why a machine will
run without trouble with a certain adjustment one day, and be very
unsatisfactory the next. These things should be observed and mentally
noted.