CHAPTER IX

SULTAN ABDUL HAMID

I come to bury Cæsar, not to praise him.

The evil that men do lives after them;

The good is oft interred with their bones.

SHAKESPEARE, _Julius Cæsar_

SO much has been said and written to the detriment of the ex-Sultan

Abdul Hamid that it would seem to be an almost hopeless task to break a

lance in his favour; and yet to do so, at least with regard to the human

aspect of his character, is nothing more than a bare act of justice.

As he timidly peeps out of the window of his palatial prison at

Begler-Bey, on the Asiatic side of the Bosphorus, he has now ample

leisure to reflect on the ingratitude of those he loaded with his

favours.

Time hath a wallet at his back

Wherein he puts alms for oblivion,

A great-sized monster of ingratitude.

And if he be familiar with the history of his own time, in bemoaning the

unhappy fate of his country he may well re-echo the bitter words of the

Austrian ex-Emperor Ferdinand, who, living in retirement at Prague when,

in 1866, the victorious Prussians appeared before the city, exclaimed:

“Surely it was scarcely worth while to force me to abdicate in order to

bring things to their present pass!”

Certain figures have come down to us as typical of the extremes of

fortune, and some are identified with Constantinople; of these that of

Belisarius, the victorious general of the Byzantine Emperor Justinian,

lies nearest. After great deeds of war, he is said to have ended his

days in a prison, through the iron bars of which he implored the charity

of passers-by: “Give, oh, give an obolus unto Belisarius, whom virtue

had raised and envy has brought so low.”

The ex-Sultan Abdul Hamid offers the latest instance of a similar change

of fortune, for on his deposition an orgy of vilification was let loose

in the Press of the Old World concerning this unfortunate Sovereign, who

only a short time ago was able to boast the friendship of Emperors. One

of the last to be entertained by him was a daughter of the House of

Habsburg, upon whom, as was customary with him, he poured a rain of

diamonds. To-day all these visitors have departed, and the ex-Khalif of

the Faithful has not a friend left in the world among the crowd of high,

well, and Imperial born to whom, in his prosperity, he played the part

of a generous host, and upon whom he squandered countless millions of

treasure in one form or another, either as presents or in expensive

entertainment. Between them and him constant relays of highly paid

emissaries were flitting on confidential missions along the iron roads

of Eastern Europe, always at his expense. Close upon 4000 parasites were

daily remorselessly draining his financial resources by living on him,

and the more lavishly he dispensed his favours the deeper became the

morass of ingratitude which at last engulfed him. But even this record

does not exhaust the list of his iniquities. He was said to have hoarded

fifty millions, whether in francs or pounds sterling matters little,

which he invested in German banks. And it was these millions which

excited the cupidity of his conquerors, and upon which they were bent on

laying hungry hands.

“The power of kings is based upon the reason and folly of the people,

but more upon their folly. The greatest and most important thing in the

world has human weakness as its basis; and this very basis is admirably

secure; for nothing is more certain than the fact that the people are

weak. That which is founded on reason alone is badly founded, as, for

instance, the recognition of wisdom.”[16]

Footnote 16:

Pascal’s “Pensées.”

This may serve to explain much in connexion with those exotics of our

democratic age—the autocrats, and more particularly the career of the

ex-Sultan Abdul Hamid, though the lesson conveyed is not applicable to

him alone, even among the living. Autocrats can have little or no

conception of real values; whilst their system makes it next to

impossible for them to train those whose abilities and knowledge of

realities might be of use to them.

The career of Abdul Hamid offers too many parallels to that of Napoleon

III not to call for notice, embodying as they well may a useful lesson

to those who care to understand. Abdul Hamid wanted to monopolize power,

and in the end everything slipped from his grasp.

I had not been long in Constantinople when it occurred to me that public

opinion, as in the case of Napoleon III, overrated the Sultan’s ability

and his knowledge of mankind, and underrated his qualities of heart. It

was not so much the disastrous results of his reign to Turkey which

irresistibly forced this conclusion upon me as the poor estimate one

could not help forming of his surroundings and of the exaggerated

importance he attached to things and individuals of questionable value;

notably those complimentary missions and visits the practical results of

which stand revealed to us to-day in all their futility. The Sultan was

imbued with the instincts of a gentleman in his personal dealings, and

these inclined him to accept as sincere assurances of friendship from

those whom he thought in a position to be as good as their word. And yet

I have it on fairly good authority that the only true friend in high

station the Sultan possessed was the Emperor of Russia, who promised him

that he would not undertake anything against Turkey during his reign,

and kept his promise. On one occasion I ventured to point out to Baron

Marschall von Bieberstein that the never-ending visits of foreign

princes and the expense of their extravagant entertainment,[17] whilst

the salaries of the officers in the Army remained unpaid, were

calculated to make the Sultan unpopular with his own people. He replied

that His Majesty could never have enough visits of that kind. The Sultan

clamoured for them, and, as we know, he got an ample supply of what he

clamoured for.

Footnote 17:

The Turkish deputation which the Sultan sent to greet the German

Emperor in 1908, at Corfu, was said at the time, in the German

newspapers, to have cost him, one way or the other, £T35,000.

When Abdul Hamid ascended the throne, the internal situation of Turkey

was so critical that it required a man of great strength of character

not to lose heart. The tragic circumstances connected with the death of

Abdul Aziz had contributed to unhinge the mind of His Majesty’s brother,

his immediate predecessor. The reckless extravagance of Sultan Abdul

Aziz and his Court had left the finances of the Empire in hopeless

embarrassment. The Ottoman Empire was practically bankrupt. Corruption

reigned supreme in every department of the State. The governorships of

the provinces had frequently been sold at enormous prices to men who

were utterly corrupt and unfitted for their positions, and who oppressed

the unfortunate populations under their charge, extorting from them,

often by torture, the profits of their industry. Justice was shamelessly

bought and sold in the courts. There was no uniform system of taxation:

every governor fixed his own tariff and enforced its collection, however

unjust and oppressive it might be.

The responsibility imposed upon a young and inexperienced prince was

heavy indeed; for Abdul Hamid was only thirty-four years of age when he

succeeded to the throne, which was still reeking with the blood of his

predecessor. Disorder reigned in the provinces. Bosnia, Herzegovina,

Servia, Bulgaria, and Montenegro were in open rebellion, and, incited by

Russia, declared war against Turkey. The demands of the States

practically amounted to independence and autonomy. Russia backed up

their demands by moving a corps d’armée to the banks of the Pruth, and

declared war. What followed is part of the history of the nineteenth

century.

It affords strong testimony to the firmness of the Sultan’s character

that he did not despair: far from it. From the very first, Abdul Hamid

boldly grasped the nettle of sovereignty, and for thirty years never

ceased for a day to devote his whole energies to the task of ruling his

country. As a stray indication of such devotion to duty, it may be

mentioned that during all that period he missed only one Friday’s public

visit to the Hamidiè Mosque for the ceremony of the Selamlik, and that

omission was due to illness. Surely this is almost a unique record of

regularity of habit, and one which only a constitution fortified by a

life of constant hard work and studied moderation could have rendered

possible.

To-day it is no empty assertion to say that Abdul Hamid endeavoured to

be the Educator of his people. He had hardly girded on the sword of

Ejoub, the emblem of Turkish sovereignty, when he sent an aide-de-camp

to a German professor living in Constantinople—Dr. Mordtmann—and sought

his assistance to organize the so-called _Mekteb Milkiè_, a school for

training Government Civil officials. He established the Turkish

University at Haidar Pasha, near the English cemetery at Scutari, at an

expense of close upon £1,000,000. The water supply of Constantinople,

the finest in the world, is due to him. Constantinople had abundant

fresh water at a time when Europe had little or no idea of its hygienic

value. Under Sultan Suleyman there were 700 fountains or springs in

Constantinople. Most of these had been allowed to dry up and decay. One

of Abdul Hamid’s first acts was to create a gratuitous supply of fresh

water for the inhabitants of Pera at a cost of £100,000.

In former days, famine and hunger-typhus, which invariably accompanies

it, periodically ravaged Asia Minor. Anatolia now exports wheat worth

two million pounds per annum and is growing cotton, and Angora produces

improved cereals which are used in brewing and are also exported. Turkey

even exports goats’ skins so far as it can do so in face of Russia’s

prohibitive tariff. When Abdul Hamid came to the throne Constantinople

lived on Russian beef; an excellent quality is now raised in Anatolia

which is sent to Constantinople by rail.

It must be borne in mind that these and other achievements were carried

out in the face of constant money difficulties. The Sultan founded

technical schools and hospitals and made roads and railways. But more

remarkable still, from a Turkish point of view, were his manifold

efforts to raise the status of the Turkish woman. He even created a

special decoration for ladies, the Order of the Chefakat. He was a true

Mohammedan in his democratic breadth of sympathies, and there can be no

doubt that in his early days he was honestly intent on the recognition

of individual worth and character.

Where so much power is placed in the hands of one man, it goes without

saying that abject servility has to be reckoned with; nor is this a

feature peculiar to Turkey. That the Sultan often showed respect for

unwelcome though honest opinion is, under the circumstances, a merit

which calls for recognition. That he did so in early years is attested

by some well-authenticated facts. He had hardly come to the throne when

he decided to call a Council of State to judge the conduct of Midhat

Pasha and his associates, who had agitated for the introduction of

European representative institutions into Turkey. The question was

submitted to the Council, which sat at the Imperial Palace, whether the

said persons were guilty of treason or not. All the members but one

brought in a verdict of “Guilty.” The single dissentient vote of “Not

guilty” was given by Emin Bey, a German—a native of Mecklenburg—who had

entered the Turkish service and embraced Islam. His colleagues, in their

dismay, pointed to a curtain in the apartment and endeavoured to convey

to the recalcitrant German that the Sultan was posted behind it and

consequently cognizant of his opposition to the vote of the rest. Emin

Bey, however, remained firm, for he belonged to the old school, and

added that he could not conscientiously decide otherwise. Every member

of the Council received some mark of the Sultan’s favour, but the

highest distinction of all was reserved for Emin Bey.

Either the Sultan must have been endowed with remarkable qualities, or

circumstances must have been exceptionally favourable to him, or both,

to have enabled him to hold on during thirty-two years, in the course of

which the pay of his soldiers was always in arrear and the gang of

favourites at the Palace was constantly plundering him. Whatever may

have been the effects of despotic rule on his character in the course of

years, there can be no doubt that when he came to the throne he was

filled with a high conception of the responsibilities of his position.

It is established beyond question that it was with the greatest

reluctance he consented to his brother being deposed, and then only

after the most reliable medical opinion regarding the latter’s mental

unfitness had been taken. At the beginning he endeavoured to attract

honest advisers to his service.

But whatever may have been his qualifications or shortcomings as a

politician, there can be little doubt that he possessed many unusual

personal attributes, though perhaps of a negative nature. He had the

calmness, the reticence, the self-control of a well-bred man, never

proffering advice and not given to expansiveness, for his nature was

undemonstrative. He showed no vulgarity, no coarseness, no hectoring or

bullying. He had no desire to put himself forward, to be communicative,

his thoughts in the market-place, nor was he carried away by the shouts

of a crowd or intoxicated by its homage. When on a Friday he passed in

front of the cheering troops his features always bore an expression of

calm dignity and benevolence, and a marked capacity for leniency and

forgiveness. His recognition, even to the humblest, for services, many

of a trivial kind, was extreme.

Abdul Hamid’s political ability has been for long an article of faith,

even with those who were prepared to deny him every other quality, and

the results obtained by him during a period of over thirty years in his

dealings with the Great Powers, freely admitting that their final

outcome was a negative one, point undeniably to his having been endowed

with some political gifts. He must have possessed a certain inborn

sagacity, which, however, was not nurtured by a wise bringing up or such

an experience of the world as would have enabled him to gain an insight

into real values, notably in the selection of high-class character. This

handicapped him through life. It showed itself in his misplaced

confidence, as evidenced by the rise of many favourites of doubtful

character from absolute obscurity to power and great wealth, and it does

not tell in favour of the common belief in the Sultan’s perspicacity

that so many of those he distinguished were mediocrities even when they

were not rogues.

Professor Vambéry relates the following incident as an illustration of

the queer type of men that managed to gain the favour of Abdul Hamid:

“Among these obscure worshippers round the Sultan was the famous Lufti

Aga, in his official capacity of Master of the Robes, but in reality the

most intimate confidant of the Sultan, in spite of his Turkish

origin.[18] I had a rather curious adventure with this worthy. One day

whilst walking with the Sultan in the garden I saw this man approaching

His Majesty, and looking closer into his face, I recognized in him the

servant of Mahmud Nedim Pasha, formerly Grand Vizier, distinguished by

his Russian sympathies—hence his nickname, Nedimoff—in whose house in

Bebek I acted formerly as teacher of French to his son-in-law, Rifat

Bey. In accosting the said former servant somewhat boldly I noticed a

perplexity on his face, but still more remarkable was the blushing of

the Sultan, who asked me whether I knew his favourite man before. ‘Of

course,’ said I, ‘Lufti was a servant in the house of Mahmud Nedim

Pasha, and he often cleaned my boots.’ Tableau! The most intimate man of

the Sultan a shoeblack by origin. But this intermezzo did not disconcert

Abdul Hamid, for Lufti went on in his delicate service until the end of

his life. Such is the East, and such are Orientals, however so much

gifted.”

Footnote 18:

This refers to the Sultan’s well-known preference for Albanians,

Circassians, and Arabs. Izzet Pasha was an Arab.

We have only to review the course of affairs since his deposition to be

forced to the conclusion that whatever Abdul Hamid’s mistakes may have

been, he was yet able to postpone the catastrophe which, under any

circumstances, must now be admitted to have been inevitable in the long

run.

To-day there can be no doubt that he was more or less driven into the

arms of Germany by the attitude of England both under Mr. Gladstone and

in a less degree under Lord Salisbury, more particularly during the

period known as that of the Armenian atrocities. But even this should

not have sufficed to endow him with the faith he undoubtedly possessed,

where only the cleverness to take advantage of Germany’s assistance in a

utilitarian spirit would have been justified. This credulity on his part

was all the more remarkable seeing that it was never shared by the more

sterling and astute political and religious elements around him. These

never swerved in their preference for England and the English, even in

the darkest days which followed upon the Armenian massacres in 1895 and

1896. They still held on to the Turkish traditions of the Crimean war of

friendship between Turkey and England. In departing therefrom the Sultan

may be said to have made the exchange familiar to us as children in

Aladdin’s story of bartering old lamps for new. England’s goodwill was

Turkey’s old lamp in spite of every misunderstanding.

In some respects the ex-Sultan shone to advantage as compared with many

rulers of the past and some of the present. Notably was this the case as

regards his sense of gratitude for services rendered and of loyalty to

those who he believed had served him well. My own sporadic relations

with His Majesty have furnished me with evidence that his wish to

benefit others could even outweigh a consideration for his own

interests. For supposing that my position as correspondent of the _New

York Herald_ at Constantinople was really of any value to him, as he

plainly believed to be the case, his proposal to me to leave that paper

and enter his service was obviously contrary to his own interests. The

guiding principle of others in the Sultan’s position would have been to

continue to utilize a man’s services at no cost to themselves and then

to throw him over. How different was Abdul Hamid’s conduct in this as in

so many other cases! The late Mr. Whittaker, for many years

correspondent of the _Times_ at Constantinople, received signal marks of

favour at the Sultan’s hands, in spite of the anti-Turkish attitude of

that paper. He was, I think, acceptable to the Sultan as a man of

culture and a talented musician, and was now and then asked to come up

to the Palace to play the piano. When a rupture finally took place, it

came about through Mr. Whittaker himself, who was exasperated at the

restrictions placed by the Censor upon the _Levant Herald_, of which he

was the proprietor.

Barely has a sovereign distinguished a private individual, without

wealth or rank, and a foreigner into the bargain, with his intimacy to

such a degree as the Sultan did in the case of Professor Arminius

Vambéry, whom he used to address by the familiar, almost endearing, term

of “Baba.” This friendship had its source in his appreciation of the

Professor’s distinction as an Oriental scholar and his well-known

sympathies with Turkey, her people, and her religion. Here, again, the

estrangement was, I believe, due to the Professor himself, who became

dissatisfied with His Majesty’s political tendencies, which he could not

see his way to share or champion.[19]

Footnote 19:

See Appendix, pp. 287–288.

The Sultan possessed a rare delicacy of feeling, which he now and then

showed in small things, doubly remarkable in a man in his exalted

position and, moreover, always overburdened with work. Thus when Sirry

Bey, one of the Sultan’s secretaries, accompanied us as chief of our

expedition through Anatolia, and was taken seriously ill between

Erzeroum and Bitlis, the Sultan was apprised of the fact. He was most

anxious to keep the news away from Sirry Bey’s wife, and made a point of

sending to his konak from time to time with cheering news and a present

of money, for fear the Bey’s salary might not have been paid to his

family in his absence through the ordinary channels. In conferring the

Order of the Chefakat on a lady, he caused the following words to be

inscribed in the brevet: “Sa Majesté Impériale accorde cette décoration

à Madame X pour faire plaisir à son mari.” It seemed to afford him

gratification to give pleasure to others.

Comparatively few people are aware of the refined nature of one so much

maligned; and yet testimony to this effect rests on irrefragable

evidence. I need only mention the Sultan’s intense love of music, his

munificent remuneration of artistes who had been asked to perform at the

Palace, and the deep interest he took in Nature, whether animals, birds,

or flowers. One day the Turkish Ambassador in London asked me to assist

him to procure a book dealing with Australian birds. The Sultan had

heard that such a work existed and would like to have a copy. All this

may well lead us to inquire how such facts are to be reconciled with the

popular conception of his treachery, his blood-guiltiness? The answer is

self-evident.

The Sultan was anxiously bent on keeping in touch with the happenings in

the outside world. Thus, in addition to reading translations of foreign

newspaper articles, he looked through several English illustrated

weeklies regularly, the letterpress of which was translated into Turkish

expressly for him by his secretaries. One of the first questions he

would ask a visitor, after the usual inquiry regarding his welfare,

would be concerning some important current event: what might be the

outcome of the Russo-Japanese war, the Russian revolution (1905–6), etc.

On one occasion he expressed his belief to me that both the Mohammedans

and the Jews would outlast the Christian world.

I have often seen it stated in print that the Sultan wore an habitual

look of melancholy—in other words, that his main characteristics were

sadness and nervousness. Neither my own experience, nor the testimony of

others best in a position to form a reliable opinion, bears this out,

although the tragic circumstances under which, very much against his

will, he came to the throne may well have left their impress on his

mind. The Sultan was of an exceedingly sensitive nature. He was a man in

whom the domestic affections were very strong; thus a blow, such as the

loss of a daughter, might well have had a cruel effect on him, as only

those can understand who have loved and lost children of their own. But

I do not believe that the Sultan’s temperament was one of habitual

melancholy. On the contrary, I know that His Majesty could enjoy a joke

as heartily as ever did Martin Luther; though the nature of some of the

doughty Reformer’s sallies would hardly have suited the refined taste of

the Khalif of the Mohammedans.

The Sultan on one occasion was inquiring of one of his confidants about

a stranger whose personality interested him. His Majesty’s informant

told him that the individual in question was never seen in coffee-houses

or theatres, much less in places of doubtful repute or in suspicious

company; that he was most moderate, even abstemious, in his habits; that

he sat at home working most of his time, and if he went out, it was to

visit a mosque and watch the Faithful at prayer. “Truly a remarkable

man,” broke in the Sultan; “he might almost be an Osmanli” (for among

themselves the Turks never use the word “Turks”). The other, feeling

that he had drawn an impossible picture of perfection, which might

perhaps encounter the Sultan’s incredulity, here rejoined that truth

compelled him to confess to His Majesty that he had seen the stranger

walk up and down in his room during the hot weather with next to no

clothing on—almost naked. This caused the Sultan to burst out laughing.

On such occasions—and they were by no means rare—when the Sultan was in

good spirits, the monarch’s merriment, as if by magic, was reflected in

his surroundings. I have seen all Yildiz in the best of good humour, for

the word had gone round that “Sa Majesté est de fort bonne humeur,” and

the news spread far and wide; it even found expression in the broad grin

of the hamal who carried the fat pasha’s dinner-tray from the Imperial

kitchen on his head.

It would, indeed, be no cause for wonder if the Sultan had been

occasionally in a serious mood. There are other monarchs besides the

Sultan whose humour is not always _couleur de rose_. “Uneasy lies the

head that wears a crown” is not a Mohammedan proverb. But the Sultan’s

strength of purpose, his truly phenomenal powers of work, his abstinence

from every form of nervous stimulant except an occasional cigarette and

a cup of coffee, are irreconcilable with the idea that he could have

been of a morbidly nervous disposition. As to the Sultan’s working

habits, I have known him to be at work at five in the morning and at

that hour keep going a whole staff of secretaries, who had slept

overnight on couches in the rooms in the Palace in which they habitually

worked. Munir Pasha once said to me: “There is one characteristic of His

Majesty which conveys a lesson to us all: it is his extraordinary

self-control—his impressive calm. It is almost sublime—no contrariety,

no trial seems to ruffle his perfect self-possession. It is truly

marvellous.”

Making every allowance for the enthusiasm of a devoted servant and a

prince of courtiers, I am yet inclined to believe, on the strength of

other evidence, as well as from my own personal observation, that Munir

Pasha’s estimate of his master’s nerve was by no means exaggerated.

Certain Ambassadors, who had abundant opportunity of testing the

Sultan’s self-control, might, if they were still among the living and

inclined to make revelations of incidents in which they did not come off

with flying colours, give even better corroborative evidence than I am

able to do.

It has been said that the Sultan was constantly surrounded by a fierce

soldiery armed to the teeth, and that sudden death awaited the hapless

creature who should venture to intrude unbidden within the sacred

precincts of the Imperial Palace. As a matter of fact I doubt whether

there is any other palace into which it would be so easy for a stranger

to penetrate as it was into the Yildiz Kiosk. All sorts and conditions

of men—but no women—used to find their way in and out. As already

mentioned, I have known the Pera shopkeeper of English nationality enter

the Palace and walk unbidden into the sanctum of the Sultan’s

all-powerful secretary, take his seat among the Ambassadors, Pashas, and

Ministers, sip his coffee and smoke his cigarette, and sit there for

hours together as if “to the manner born.” So much for the exclusive

character of the Sultan’s Palace.

I remember more than once being at the Palace rather late in the

evening. Everybody had gone home long since. A few servants, wearing

fezes and dressed in the black stambolin frock-coat, stood silently in

the hall which adjoined the Imperial apartment. Otherwise not a soul,

much less an armed man, was to be seen until you passed the sentry at

the gate of exit. Nor, indeed, was a sound to be heard on the beautiful

moonlight night, except the splashing of the water of the marble

fountain, which issued from one of the side walls of the unpretentious

one-storied wing. The Sultan was within, hard at work with his secretary

in a suite of apartments opposite those of Ghazi Osman. A stranger might

have remained there unmolested, as I did in front of the Sultan’s room,

without a soldier to be seen, or a policeman to call upon him to “move

on.”

It will always remain a strange feature connected with the dethronement

of the Sultan that it came on a sudden, quite unexpected even by those

who ought to have been in a position to form a correct estimate of what

was going on. As a matter of fact the Sultan’s authority was being

undermined some time before the catastrophe really took place. He no

longer ventured as of yore to act in direct opposition to the advice of

his Ministers by granting valuable concessions to his favourites. The

pressure of foreign Ambassadors, notably Baron Marschall von

Bieberstein, also became more embarrassing.

About this time the Turkish Ambassador at Madrid, Izzet Fuad Pasha, a

grandson of the renowned Grand Vizier Fuad, published a book severely

criticizing the conduct of Turkish affairs as embodying so many lost

opportunities. He was recalled to Constantinople, put under surveillance

in the Pera Palace Hotel, and forbidden to leave it even for an airing.

Crowds of spies surrounded the hotel by day and by night. Of even

greater significance were the doings of Fehim Pasha and his arraignment

and disgrace, of which more later. The contradiction between the

Sultan’s supposed diplomatic astuteness and the short-sightedness which

appears to have marked his measures in meeting the forces which were

destined to overthrow him has not yet found an explanation.

The personal appearance of the Sultan has been described by many

writers, for no monarch in the world was seen so regularly in public as

he. Anybody who wished to see him had only to walk up to the Imperial

Palace, the Yildiz Kiosk (“Tent of the Stars”), on a Friday morning, and

he was absolutely certain of seeing His Majesty as he drove in an open

victoria, with Ghazi Osman sitting opposite him, out of the Palace gates

to the Hamidiè Mosque to prayer, and half an hour later, on his way

back, when he himself handled the ribbons. It is quite true that the

road was double-lined with soldiers, but that in no way prevented the

spectator from taking stock at his leisure of the Sultan and all his

courtly surroundings. Then, again, a number of rooms adjoining the

Palace, overlooking the whole pageant of the Selamlik, were placed by

the Sultan at the disposal of foreign visitors and the better classes of

Constantinople every Friday, and it used to be—until the last few years,

as explained elsewhere—the easiest thing in the world for anybody with a

decent coat to his back to obtain a card of admission, and thus, for the

short period of one forenoon, to become _de facto_ a guest of the

Sultan. During the interval, whilst the Sultan was in the Mosque,

excellent tea and sometimes, on exceptional occasions, even sweets and

cigarettes were handed round to the visitors, whilst bags of bonbons

were distributed among the crowd in the road on Mohammed’s birthday; a

list of those present was also regularly handed to the Sultan, who

perused it, and if any name was familiar to him, he would send his

personal greeting to the visitor in question. Thus the privilege of

witnessing the ceremony of the Selamlik from the rooms set apart for the

purpose was one involving the acceptance of His Majesty’s hospitality.

There every Turk appeared dressed in his best, wearing his decorations.

This was not always realized by visitors of the English-speaking world,

some of whom I have seen in flannel shirts, dirty shoes, and

knickerbockers mingling, with complete self-possession, among

diplomatists and others belonging to good society, who were carefully

attired for the occasion.

The favourable impression which the Sultan is universally admitted to

have produced on those who were privileged to come into contact with him

was doubtless due to that charm of manner, that quiet dignity which is

more or less characteristic of all well-bred Turks. But in his case it

was supplemented by a kindly smile and an unusually sympathetic voice,

the tones of which conveyed a pleasant impression even to the stranger

who was unable to understand what His Majesty had said until it had been

translated by the interpreter. The Sultan usually gave audiences on

Friday after the ceremony of the Selamlik, when he wore a Turkish

general’s uniform with the star of the Imtiaz Order in brilliants hung

from his neck. As he sat in front of you, his hands resting on the hilt

of his sword before him, and spoke to Munir Pasha in his quiet,

dignified way, you could not resist the impression of a picturesque

dignity. I have also seen him attired in a black frock-coat, cut in

Turkish fashion, which just hid a white waistcoat with a gold

watch-chain, scarcely differing in appearance from one of his

secretaries or the other officials. The only other jewellery was a plain

gold ring on the little finger of the right hand with a fair-sized cut

ruby, or polished en cabochon. He received his visitors standing. It was

customary to sit in the presence of the Sultan after being requested to

do so; but the native-born Turk sat only on the very edge of the little

gilt chair, and folded his arms across his chest, waiting for the Sultan

to address him, and then muttered in reply, while bending low, and

touching chest, lips, and forehead with the right hand: “Firman

Effendemizen” (“Master, thy word is law”).

Many might find it difficult to account for the personal popularity of

Abdul Hamid in face of the disasters which marked his reign, such as the

Russo-Turkish war and the several Armenian risings. The explanation is

to be found in the fact that Abdul Hamid represented the ideals of a

ruler in the hearts of his people far more than any Sultan since Mahmud

II, who ordered the extermination of the Janissaries. How far he

deserved this attachment can be estimated only by making due allowance

for the retentive memory of the Turks and their traditional attachment

to their race and the tenets of their religion. It is impossible to do

justice to Abdul Hamid without realizing to what a depth Turkey had sunk

under Abdul Aziz. A knowledge of these facts alone enables us to

appreciate the reforms which Abdul Hamid introduced, and for which he

obtained credit from his subjects, but none at all from the outer world.

Even allowing for these things and the influence which they exercised

upon the minds of the Turkish people, it would be difficult to

understand how the Sultan maintained despotic sway for thirty years were

it not for the realization that the Mohammedan has a different outlook

upon the world from that of the other peoples of Europe. Reverence for

the past, fidelity to his faith, deep attachment to the traditions of

race and creed—these unfashionable virtues are instinctive with him.

Abdul Hamid’s strength lay in this, that he represented in his own

person, at least for a time, the ways of thinking of his people: that

his ways were in essence theirs. In this connexion my thoughts ever and

again revert to the scene of the Selamlik, when I saw Ghazi Osman Pasha

sitting opposite the Sultan in his carriage. Nowhere in the Christian

world can I call to mind such an inspiring picture as this of the

white-headed old man being demonstratively honoured in public by his

Sovereign and revered by the people, although his name will always be

identified with one of the greatest catastrophes that ever overtook the

Turkish arms in Europe. And yet in the eyes of his master there was no

disgrace, only honour, for one who typified in himself all the virtues

that belong to Islam. How can one help contrasting the treatment the

Turks and their ruler meted out to their defeated champion with that

which the ever ungrateful house of Habsburg bestowed upon that gallant

soldier Field-Marshal Benedek, the unfortunate Austrian commander at the

battle of Sadowa—all his former services, his splendid record in Italy

in 1848–49, when the Archduke Albrecht presented him with the sword of

his father the Archduke Charles, the victor of Aspern, his prowess in

Hungary, his distinguished conduct at the battle of Solferino in the

Franco-Italian war of 1859, all wiped out of memory, and he himself

disgraced and sent to die of a broken heart in the obscure little town

of Gratz.

Blow, blow, thou Winter wind!

Thou art not so unkind

As man’s ingratitude.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Turkish Memories · 第 3 / 9 章