PASSAGE FROM NEW YORK TO ALBANY BY STEAMER--THE
PASSENGERS--ARRIVAL AT ALBANY--JOURNEY TO MONTREAL.
The navigation of the Hudson not being yet interrupted by ice, I
determined on proceeding to Albany by steamboat, in preference to the
railroad, with the view of seeing the far-famed scenery of the country
through which the river flows. I accordingly embarked on the 5th of
February. We had not proceeded far, however, when we found the face of
the country covered with snow; and thus the pleasure I had anticipated
from my aquatic trip was in a great measure lost.
Winter had set in in earnest, and the cold became so severe as we
ascended, that the deck was abandoned, and the nearest seat to the
stove was considered the best. The passengers being now all crowded
below, the group presented a complete epitome of American society:
here were members of the legislature proceeding to the capital on
parliamentary duty; here also were congregated in the same cabin,
merchants, mechanics, and farmers, messing at the same board, and at
first mixed up promiscuously together. They did not, however, long
continue so; the more respectable part, separating from the crowd,
occupied one end of the cabin, the plebeians occupied the other. Thus
the homogeneous ingredients of the mass having united, no further
mixture took place during the passage.
It is true, one of patrician rank might occasionally be observed
stepping beyond the ideal boundary, and sitting down among the
plebeians, probably some of his constituents,--would call for a pipe,
and, stretching out his legs, commence to puff, spit, and debate, like
one of themselves; and having by these means convinced them that he
still considered them as his _equals_, would retire again _ad suos_.
The Americans are accused by Europeans of being cold and reserved
towards strangers; for my part, I found them sociable and
communicative in the extreme. A few hours after I had embarked on
board the steamboat I found myself quite at home. I was much pleased
to observe the rational manner in which the passengers amused
themselves. Little groups were formed, where religion, politics and
business matters were discussed with excellent sense and judgment.
These seemed to be the common topics of discourse in both ends of the
cabin. I frequented both, and saw nothing indecorous or improper in
either, save the spitting and the outrageous rush to the table; such a
scene as the latter is only to be seen in America.
The servants bawl out at the top of their lungs:--
"Time enough, gentlemen! time enough! No hurry, no hurry!"
Onward they rush, however, crowding, pushing, elbowing, until they
take their seats. I was, however, particularly struck with the
attention shown to the ladies, the great sobriety of all classes, and
the total absence of impure or profane expressions in conversation.
How unlike the scenes one witnesses on board our steamboats in
Britain, where the meaner sort of passengers seem to travel on purpose
to indulge in drinking!
I arrived at Albany late on the 7th, our progress having been much
retarded by the quantity of ice drifting in the river. Finding that
the mail was to start for Canada in the course of the night, I decided
on going with it, without seeing the capital of New York. Owing to the
mildness of the season up to the present time, the roads were in
the worst possible condition, and the motion of the carriage passing
rapidly over the rugged surface of the muddy roads recently frozen
solid, was not only disagreeable, but even painful.
We continued, however, to jolt on night and day, without rest, save
during the short time necessary for changing or baiting cattle. The
roads became worse, if possible, as we proceeded. A considerable
quantity of snow had fallen lately, which rendered travelling
in a wheeled carriage not only disagreeable in the extreme, but
also dangerous. We broke down several times, but without serious
inconvenience. On one of these occasions we picked ourselves up
opposite a farm house, in which we took shelter while the driver was
putting matters to rights. It being yet early, the inmates were still
in bed; we nevertheless found a rousing fire blazing on the hearth,
and seated ourselves around it.
All of a sudden the door of a small apartment flew open, and a large
black cat sprang in amongst us.
"Ha! what do you think of that, now?" said one of the passengers,
addressing himself to me. "What do you think of the ingenuity of our
Yankee cats? Had Boz witnessed that feat, we should have had a page or
two more to his notes; and I am sure it would have proved at least as
interesting to the reader as the nigger driver's conversation with his
cattle."
"That's a fact," said I.
After being jolted and pitched about until every bone in my body
ached again, I reached St. John's on the 12th; and the snow being now
sufficiently deep to admit of travelling with sleighs, the remainder
of the journey to Montreal was accomplished in comparative comfort.