LABRADOR--ESQUIMAUX HALF-BREEDS--MORAVIAN BRETHREN--EUROPEAN
INHABITANTS--THEIR VIRTUES--CLIMATE--ANECDOTE.
The country denominated Labrador, extends from Esquimaux Bay, on
the Straits of Belleisle, to the extremity of the continent, Cape
Chudleigh, at the entrance of Hudson's Strait. The interior is
inhabited by two tribes of Indians, Mountaineers and Nascopies,
members of the Cree family. The coast was inhabited at one time by
Esquimaux only, but the southern part is now peopled by a mongrel race
of Esquimaux half-breeds, a few vagabond Esquimaux, and some English
and Canadian fishermen and trappers, who are assimilated to the
natives in manners and in mode of life. While the European inhabitants
adopt from necessity some of the native customs, the natives
have adopted so much of the European customs that their primitive
characteristics are no longer distinguishable; they cook their
victuals, drink rum, smoke and chew tobacco, and generally dress after
the European manner, especially the females, who always wear gowns.
They have also a smattering of French and English, and are great
proficients in swearing in both languages; nor do they seem ignorant
of the more refined arts of cheating, lying, and deceiving. Taking
everything into account, however, we may be surprised that their
manners are not more corrupt than they are.
A number of small trading vessels from the United States hover about
the coast during summer; the accursed "fire-water" constitutes a
primary article in their outfit, and is bartered freely for such
commodities as the natives may possess. These adventurers are
generally men of loose principles, and are ever ready to take the
advantage of their customers. The natives, however, are now so well
instructed that they are more likely to cheat than be cheated.
The Esquimaux inhabiting the northern parts of the coast differ in
every respect from their neighbours of the south. They have acquired
a knowledge of the Christian religion, together with some of the more
useful arts of civilized life, without losing much of their primitive
simplicity. The Moravian Brethren, those faithful "successors of the
Apostles," after enduring inconceivable hardships and privations for
many years, without the least prospect of success, at length succeeded
in converting the heathens, collecting them in villages around them,
and at the same time not only instructing them in things pertaining to
their eternal salvation, but in everything else that could contribute
to their comfort and happiness in the present life. There are four
different stations of the Brethren; Hopedale, Nain, O'Kok, and Hebron.
At each station there is a church, store, dwelling-house for the
Missionaries, and workshops for native tradesmen. The natives are
lodged in houses built after the model of their _igloes_, being the
best adapted to the climate and circumstances of the country, where
scarcely any fuel is to be had: the Missionaries warm their houses by
means of stoves.
The Brethren have much the same influence with their flocks as a
father among his children. Whatever provisions the natives collect
are placed at their disposal, and by them afterwards distributed in
such a manner as to be of the most general benefit; by thus taking
the management of this important matter into their own hands, the
consequences of waste and improvidence are guarded against, and the
means of subsistence secured.
In years of great scarcity the Brethren open their own stores, having
always an ample supply of provisions on hand, so that through their
fostering care the natives never suffer absolute want. The Brethren
have also goods for trading, which they dispose of at a moderate
profit; the profits accruing from the business are thrown into the
general funds of the institution. It is said they carry on trade in
every part of the world where they have missions. Their object is not
to acquire wealth for selfish purposes, but to extend the kingdom of
Christ on earth; to enlighten the nations; and by instructing them in
the knowledge of Divine truth, to "ameliorate their condition" in this
life, and secure their eternal happiness in the life to come.
From the paternal anxiety with which these good people watch over the
morals of their flocks, they discourage as much as possible the visits
of strangers; fearing that intercourse with them might open their eyes
to the allurements of vice. In spite of all their vigilance, however,
they have sometimes to deplore the loss of a stray sheep. It is an
established rule, moreover, with them, never to allow a stranger to
sleep within their gates; he is hospitably received and treated with
kindness and attention, but on the approach of evening he is apprised
that he must shift for himself: care is taken, however, to provide him
with lodgings in one of the native huts, where he can pass the night
in tolerable comfort. Should he not be pleased with his treatment, he
is at liberty to depart when he pleases.
The European inhabitants of Labrador are for the most part British
sailors, who, preferring the freedom of a semi-barbarous life and the
society of a brown squaw, to the severity of maritime discipline and
the endearments of the civilized fair, take up their abode for life in
this land of desolation.
In course of time the gay frolicksome sailor settles down into the
regular grave father of a family; and by sobriety and good conduct,
may ultimately secure a comfortable home for his old age. Jack's
characteristic thoughtlessness, however, sometimes adheres to him even
when moored on dry land; and when this is the case, his situation is
truly miserable.
They pass the summer in situations favourable for catching salmon,
which they barter on the spot with the stationary traders for such
commodities as they are in want of. When the salmon fishing is at
an end, they proceed to the coast for the purpose of fishing cod for
their own consumption, and return late in autumn to the interior,
where they pass the winter trapping fur animals.
The planters, as they are designated, live in houses which they
call "tilts," varying in shape and size according to the taste or
circumstances of the owner. These buildings are generally formed of
stakes driven into the ground, chinked with moss, and covered with
bark; they are always warmed with stoves, otherwise the _igloe_ would
afford more comfort.
The half-breeds live in much the same way as their European
progenitors; they are generally sober and industrious; and although
unacquainted with any particular form of religious worship, they
evince, in their general deportment, a greater regard to the precepts
of Christianity than many who call themselves Christians. They are
entirely free from the crimes that disgrace civilized life, and are
guilty of few of its vices; should a frail fair, however, make a _faux
pas_, it is no bar to her forming a matrimonial connexion afterwards.
The women are much fewer than the men, and on this account a greater
indulgence may be extended to their faults than otherwise would be.
I was surprised to find them all able to read and write, although
without schools or schoolmasters. The task of teaching devolves
upon the mother; should she (what seldom happens) be unqualified, a
neighbour is always ready to impart the desired instruction.
The Esquimaux half-breeds are both industrious and ingenious; they
are at a loss for nothing. The men make their own boats, and the women
prepare everything required for domestic convenience; almost every
man is his own blacksmith and carpenter, and every woman a tailor and
shoemaker. They seem to possess all the virtues of the different races
from which they are sprung--except courage; they are generally allowed
to be more timid than the natives. But if not courageous, they possess
virtues that render courage less necessary; they avoid giving offence,
and are seldom, therefore, injured by others.
The Hudson's Bay Company obtained a footing here a few years ago, by
buying out some of the petty traders, whose operations extended to the
interior, and consequently interfered with the hopeful Ungava scheme;
independently, however, of this consideration, expectations were
entertained that Labrador might become the seat of a profitable branch
of the business, from its various resources in fish, oil, and furs.
These expectations were not realized, owing to the strong competition
the Company met with; while their interference in the trade subjected
them to the charge of "grasping ambition," a charge which appears but
too well founded, considering the monopoly they possess of the whole
fur trade of the continent. "Plus le D----e a, plus il voudrait
avoir," is an old adage; nor have we any reason to believe that any
other mercantile body would be less ambitious of increasing their
gains, than their _honours_ of Fenchurch-street.
There are several establishments along the coast, belonging chiefly to
merchants from Plymouth and Dartmouth, who carry on the salmon and cod
fisheries on an extensive scale, and traffic also with the planters.
This business was at one time considered very lucrative; of late
years, however, competition has increased from all quarters, and
prices in the European market have diminished, so that the profits are
now greatly reduced.
The climate of the southern section of Labrador is by no means severe;
the thermometer, even in the coldest months of the year, seldom
falling lower than 30° below zero. Along the shores of Esquimaux Bay,
a few spots have been found favourable for agriculture, and potatoes
and other culinary vegetables have been raised in abundance. Grain,
especially oats and barley, would doubtless also thrive; it so
happens, however, that the inhabitants are under the necessity of
devoting their attention to other pursuits during the season of
husbandry; so that the few that attempt "gardening," derive small
benefit from it. They sow their seed before starting for the coast,
and leave nature to do the rest.
I shall close my description of Labrador by narrating a rather
tragical event that occurred a few years ago. An old fisherman,
formerly a sailor, and his only son by an Esquimaux squaw, lived
together in the greatest amity and concord. The son, after the death
of his mother, attended to domestic affairs, and also assisted his
father at out-door's work. As the fishing season approached, however,
it was considered expedient to hire a female, so that they might give
their undivided attention to the fishing. The girl had not remained
long with them, when her charms began to make an impression on Jack's
still sensitive heart; the son also became enamoured; both paid their
addresses, and, as a matter of course, the young man was preferred.
The demon of jealousy now took possession of the father's breast; and
his conduct became so violent and cruel, that his son determined on
parting company with him and carrying off the girl. Seizing the only
boat that belonged to his father, he slipped away under cover of night
with his companion, and put ashore on the first island they found. A
violent storm arose in the course of the night, and either dashed the
boat to pieces on the rocks, or carried her out to sea; and thus the
unfortunate lovers were left to their fate. This event happened late
in autumn. The winter passed without any word being heard of the
lovers; in the ensuing spring their bodies were found clasped in each
other's arms, and the young man's gun close by with fifteen notches
cut in the stock, supposed to mark the number of days they suffered
ere relieved by death.