THE MARCH TO UNYORO.
On 18th March, 1872, we were all in order for the march to the south,
under the direction of our guide, Shooli.
Having taken leave of Major Abdullah, I left him a good supply of sheep
and cattle for his detachment, and at 2 p.m. we started for the prairie
march to Unyoro.
The descent from the table land of Fatiko was rapid for the first seven
miles, at which point we reached a stream of clear running water, which
is one of the channels of the Un-y-Ame river.
The limit of the inhabited country is about three miles from the camp at
Fatiko, after which all is wilderness to Unyoro.
This fertile country has been left uninhabited, on account of the
disturbance occasioned by the diversity of tribes. On the east it is
bounded by Umiro, on the south by Unyoro, and on the west by Madi. This
large tract of land, about eighty miles from north to south, is
accordingly the resort of wild animals, and it forms the favourite
hunting-ground of the various tribes, who generally come into conflict
with each other during their excursions in pursuit of game.
We halted for the night at the clear stream of the Un-y-Ame, as the
native carriers expected their wives to bring them provisions for the
journey. It was only five o'clock, therefore I strolled along the banks
of the stream accompanied by Shooli, and shortly came upon game.
At this season the country was very lovely, as the young grass was
hardly a foot high. Stalking was extremely difficult, as the land was
clear of trees, and the long sweeping undulations exposed every object
to view when upon the face of the inclines. I managed at length to get a
tolerable shot at one of the beautiful teel antelopes (Leucotis), by
creeping up the broken bed of a water-course until I arrived at a
white-ant hill. On my way home I shot a gazelle, thus the natives all
had flesh from the two animals on the first night of the march.
The wives appeared to be excellent women, as they arrived in great
numbers with a quantity of hard porridge made of dhurra flour, which was
to form the commissariat for a journey of nearly 160 miles to Unyoro and
back.
If a native travels through wilderness, he will always make forced
marches, thus the Fatikos would only sleep one night upon the road of
seventy-eight miles when on the return journey.
On the following morning, we were rather late in starting, as more women
arrived with food, and certain farewells took place. The Fatiko natives
appeared to be very superior to the Lobore, as not one man absconded. In
fact, one native who had a swollen leg which prevented him from walking,
actually sent back his cow with an explanation of the cause of absence.
On 19th March we started at 6.50 a.m., all our carriers being well
provided with food. The country was as usual a well-watered undulating
prairie, abounding in game. At this season the journey was very
delightful, but when the grass is about nine feet high it is simply
detestable travelling.
On the march, we, as usual, led the way. Lieutenant Baker dismounted for
a shot at a splendid buck (Leucotis), which he wounded somewhere behind,
and the animal made off in evident discomfort. This was a signal for the
natives, who immediately put down their loads and started off in
pursuit, like a pack of hounds.
Although the animal was badly hit, the pace was very great, and it went
along the face of the opposite undulation followed by the extraordinary
runners, who, with their long springing strides, kept up a speed for
about three-quarters of a mile that at length brought the leading native
sufficiently near for throwing his lance. The next moment a crowd of
hungry fellows fell upon the welcome name like starving wolves.
After a march of twelve miles we arrived at a rocky stream of clear
water, which is another channel of the Un-y-Ame river, that carries off
the main drainage of this country. We halted to refresh the people and
to have our breakfast on the clean rock that bordered the stream, and
started for the afternoon march at 2 p.m.
During the march I endeavoured to stalk a large bull tetel (Antelope
bubulis), but there was very little chance in so open a country. The
animal galloped off exactly in a straight line from me at about 200
yards. I put up the last leaf of the sight, and I distinctly heard the
bullet strike. The next moment I saw the animal was wounded. It was just
disappearing over the next undulation, and upon arriving at the spot, I
saw the wounded bull standing about 200 yards before me.
I approached from behind until within 100 paces, without being observed
by the tetel, who was evidently very bad. Moving slightly to my right, I
was quickly seen, and the animal turned its flank preparatory to making
off. A shot from the "Dutchman" through the shoulder killed it on the
spot.
I now found that my first bullet had struck the spine exactly above the
root of the tail. This large animal was a good supply for the people,
who quickly divided it and continued the march, until, having crossed
another stream, we left the open prairie gad entered a low forest.
Halted for the night. The march during this day bad been nineteen miles.
On the 20th we marched, from 6 A.M. till 9.45, through undulating
forest, and halted upon high ground, which commanded a fine view of the
mountain that borders the west shore of the Albert N'yanza, opposite
Magungo, about fifty-five miles S. S. W. From our elevated point we
looked down over a fine extent of country, and the Fatiko natives
pointed out the course of the White Nile from the great lake, along
which was a line of smoke, caused, according to their accounts, by the
fishermen who were at this season burning the high reeds on the river's
bank.
The natives were thoroughly conversant with the country, as they had on
several occasions accompanied the slave-hunters in razzias along the
river to Foquatch and Magungo. Just as we halted, a party of Umiro
hunters came across our path, but immediately took to flight, as they
supposed we were enemies.
The day's march had been thirteen miles, and we were requested by our
guide, Shooli, to halt for the night, as there was no water for a
considerable distance to the south.
I immediately employed the soldiers in the construction of a cattle
kraal, lest the prowling Umiro should endeavour to scare the animals
during the night.
On 21st March we started at 6 A.M., and marched thirteen miles through
forest. We at length reached water, but it was so thick with mud that
the horses refused to drink it.
On the 22nd we were compelled to march twenty-three miles, as the water
was quite undrinkable, the few muddy pools having been stirred into
paste by the buffaloes and elephants.
We now reached the grand Victoria Nile, flowing beneath cliffs of
seventy or eighty feet in depth, through magnificent forest. It was
refreshing for all parties to obtain pure water after the miserable
fluid we had lately been compelled to drink.
In the evening a sheik and several people, who had known me formerly,
crossed the river from the Unyoro side, and desired an interview. They
reported that the Khartoum traders had almost destroyed the country, and
they begged me simply to judge with my own eyes.
I must now extract from my journal the entry of the date, as, although
briefly written, it will convey the impression of the moment:--
"March 23, 1872.--We marched three miles east, along the banks of the
beautiful Victoria Nile, through fine open forest, until we halted on a
high cliff exactly opposite, the last station of Abou Saood, commanded
by a vakeel named Suleiman.
"It is impossible to describe the change that has taken place since I
last visited this country. It was then a perfect garden, thickly
populated, and producing all that man could desire. The villages were
numerous; groves of plantains fringed the steep cliff's on the river's
bank; and the natives were neatly dressed in the bark cloth of the
country.
"The scene has changed!
"All is wilderness! The population has fled. Not a village is to be
seen!
"This is the certain result of the settlement of Khartoum traders. They
kidnap the women and children for slaves, and plunder and destroy
wherever they set their foot.
"Seleiman and Eddrees, two vakeels, who were well known to me as forming
a portion of Ibrahim's party on my former journey, now came across the
river to visit me.
"The cunning Abou Saood has never told them of the expiration of the
government contract with Agad & Co., neither had they any warning of my
expected arrival.
"I explained the exact state of affairs.
"The principal sheik of the district, with many people, came to see me.
The chief, Quonga, was one of my old acquaintances, and was formerly the
favourite adviser of Kamrasi.
"Kamrasi died about two years ago. His sons fought for the succession,
and each aspirant sought the aid of the traders. This civil strife
exactly suited the interests of the treacherous Khartoumers. The several
companies of slave-hunters scattered over the Madi, Shooli, and Unyoro
countries represented only one interest, that of their employers, Agad
and Co.
"Each company, commanded by its independent vakeel, arrived in Unyoro,
and supported the cause of each antagonistic pretender to the throne,
and treacherously worked for the ruin of all, excepting him who would be
able to supply the largest amount of ivory and slaves.
"The favourite sons of Kamrasi were Kabba Rega and Kabka Miro, while the
old enemy of the family, Rionga, the cousin of Kamrasi, again appeared
upon the scene.
"The companies of Abou Saood supported all three, receiving ivory and
slaves from each as the hire of mercenary troops; and at length they
played out their game by shooting Kabka Miro, and securing the throne to
Kabba Rega.
"They arranged with Rionga that he should be ostensibly banished to a
convenient distance, to be ready as a trump card, should occasion
require, against the new king, Kabba Rega.
"I explained the new reform to Quonga, and I gave him the following
presents for Kabba Rega, who resides about six days' march south-west of
this spot:--
"One piece entire of Turkey red cloth, one piece grey calico, twelve
pounds of beads of the finest varieties, three zinc mirrors, two razors,
one long butcher's knife, two pair scissors, one brass bugle, one German
horn, two pieces of red and yellow handkerchiefs, one piece of yellow
ditto, one peacock Indian scarf, one blue blanket, six German silver
spoons, sixteen pairs of various car-rings, twelve finger-rings, two
dozen mule harness bells, six elastic heavy brass spring wires, one
pound long white horsehair, three combs, one papier-mache tray, one
boxwood fife, one kaleidoscope.
"I proclaimed upon all sides that the reign of terror was ended. As I
formerly, when alone, had defended Kamrasi, and driven out the invaders
under Wat-el-Mek, by hoisting the English ensign, so now I would take
the country under my protection with a powerful force.
"I gave Quonga and all his sheiks presents of beads, and shocked them
powerfully with the magnetic battery, leaving a strong impression.
"March 24.-I wrote officially to Suleiman, the vakeel of Agad & Co., to
give him warning 'that sixteen days hence the contract would expire, and
that he and all his people must be ready to evacuate the country and
return to Khartoum on that day. That any person who should remain after
this notice would be imprisoned. That, should he or any of his people
wish to enlist in the service of the government as irregular troops,
their names must be handed in before the expiration of two days.'
"Suleiman declared his willingness to enlist together with Eddrees and
several others.
"He told me that nothing could be procured in the country. Thank God I
left a good reputation here seven years ago; thus I shall be able to
purchase food.
"This morning my old acquaintance, Keedja, formerly chief of Atada, came
to see me with many of his people, and with perfect confidence they
commenced a trade, bringing provisions in exchange for beads. They
promised to arrive to-morrow, and to establish a daily market at our
camp.
"Keedja explains that he and his people have been obliged to fly from
the depredations of the companies of Abou Saood, thus they have settled
in the forest on the north side of the river, and have cultivated farms.
They have very few clothes, as their bark-cloth trees are on the south
side of the river in their old plantations.
"All the people declare they will now return to their old habitations
and re-cultivate the land as in former days.
"I found that the natives who ran from us on the march, and dropped
their elephant spears, were Keedja's people, thus I returned to them the
three spears and an axe, to their great astonishment. (A party of
native hunters had been scared during our march by our sudden
appearance.)
"The elephant spears were of a kind used from trees. The blade is about
twenty inches long, the handle about twenty-four inches. The end of the
handle is heavily weighted with a lump of several pounds, composed of
clay, cow-dung, and chopped straw, and the weapon, beautifully
sharpened, is dropped upon the elephant's back by a hunter from the
branches of a tree. The constant movement of the heavy handle as it
strikes the boughs when the elephant rushes through the forest, cuts the
animal so terribly that it bleeds to death. The hunters follow on the
blood track until they find the dying animal.
"March 25. --Suleiman, the vakeel, summoned his men to volunteer for the
government service as irregular troops.
"I issued a written proclamation, that should volunteers enlist, the
term of service would be annual, subject to three months' notice, should
any officer or private wish to retire at the expiration of twelve
months.
"The rank of the vakeel would be equivalent to that of major in the
regular army.
"The pay would be equal to that of regular troops.
"If I can form a regiment of 600 irregulars I shall be independent of
troops from Khartoum.
"March 26. --Quonga and many other sheiks arrived, and were quite
delighted with the wheel of life.
"The natives are selling sweet potatoes and tobacco for beads, but flour
is brought in very small quantities.
"March 27. --Provisions are coming in so slowly that we shall be short
of food. Upon the arrival of Quonga and his sheiks, I make a hot
complaint; he coldly told me that it would be better if the soldiers
were to forage for themselves.
"I explained to him the rigid discipline that I enforced, and that,
should I once permit thieving, the troops' character would be entirely
ruined, and they would pillage throughout the route.
"He replied that this neighbourhood was in a state of anarchy; that many
of the inhabitants were hostile to Kabba Rega, and they would not obey
his orders.
"I told him that my troops were lambs if well fed, but they were like
lions if hungry, and to prove their number I would summon them before
him.
"The bugle sounded the 'taboor,' and upwards of 100 men immediately fell
in with bayonets fixed, to the no small dismay of Quonga and his sheiks,
who began to look very uneasy at the scarlet uniforms. By a coup de
theatre, I marched the men, with bugles and drums playing, round the
numerous huts, so that they reappeared twice before the tent, and thus
doubled their real number.
"At the halt and dismissal, they shouted their usual wild cry in
Turkish, in honour of their commander.
"'Do you understand what they say?' I asked Quonga. To his negative
reply, I answered, 'They say they will eat from the country if
provisions are not supplied to-morrow!'
"Quonga and his sheiks started off immediately to give the necessary
orders.
"Upon his return I told him 'to advise Kabba Rega to behave in a
different manner to the conduct of his father, the late Kamrasi. I had
returned to this country to bestow prosperity upon the land; that if
Kabba Rega meant fair dealing and legitimate trade, he must act
honourably and sincerely; if I should find any signs of unfairness, I
should pass on direct to Uganda, the Country of M'tese, and he would
receive the goods I had intended for Unyoro.'
"Negroes are great deceivers, especially the natives of Unyoro. I have
beads, cattle, merchandise, and every article necessary to purchase
flour and potatoes: nevertheless, our wants are not supplied. The cattle
are dying, as the change of herbage does not agree with them; this is a
sad loss. (One of the African difficulties consists in the mortality
of the cattle when changing districts.)
"March 28. --The great sheik, Lokara, who is the commander-in-chief of
Kabba Rega's forces, arrived. This man has left a large army on the
banks of the Nile, a few hours' march up stream, ready to attack Rionga,
who is settled, with his people, on an island in the river. Of course he
is come to request military aid. This is the old story. Upon my last
visit I was bored almost to death by Kamrasi, with requests that I would
assist him to attack Rionga. I have only been here for a few days when I
am troubled with the old tune.
"March 29. --Provisions are very scarce; the people have been fighting
for so many years that cultivation has been much neglected, and the
natives live principally upon plantains.
"I gave Suleiman, the vakeel, five cows yesterday. He declares that Abou
Saood told him that my term of service with the Egyptian government had
expired, therefore the entire country was now in his hands. This liar,
Abou Saood, will some day reap the fruits of his treachery.
"I ordered the government flag to be hoisted in Suleiman's camp, and the
vakeel, Suleiman, called upon all those who were willing to enlist in
the service of the Khedive to assemble beneath the ensign. Sixty-one men
registered their names.
"The only difficulty is the rate of wages. I offer the privates sixty
piastres (the piastre equals twopence-halfpenny) per month, i.e.,
thirty piastres as equal pay to that of the regulars, and thirty
piastres in lieu of clothes. Formerly these brigands nominally received
fifty and fifty-five piastres, in addition to one third of all cattle
that might be captured in razzias.
"Should I be able to establish a small irregular corps as a
commencement, the expense would be considerable in proportion to the
actual proceeds in ivory. The position is difficult.
"A radical change throughout the country is absolutely necessary. The
companies have hitherto purchased ivory with slaves and cattle; thus all
countries in which this custom has been established, must be abandoned
until the natives will sell ivory in exchange for goods.
"The expenses will continue, or perhaps augment, while the ivory produce
must decrease for the first twelve months, or until the people will
understand and accept the reform.
"Without an irregular force it will be impossible to hold the country,
and at the same time to carry on the work of government. The force that
I originally proposed, of 1,650, is absolutely required to occupy a
chain of stations from Gondokoro.
"March 30.--The cows are dying in great numbers, and the natives are
bringing large quantities of potatoes in exchange for the flesh, but
there is no corn in the country.
"The days and nights are now cloudy and showery.
"Lokara and Quonga came this morning, but no messenger has yet arrived
from Kabba Rega.
"I gave Lokara a blue shirt, a long red sash, and a crimson fez, to his
great delight. The chiefs were much struck with the present intended for
Kabba Rega; this consisted of three rows of roman pearls as large as
marbles, with a gilt shield, and onyx-pendant tied up with green satin
ribbon.
"March 31.--I sent all the cattle across the river in charge of Quonga;
two were carried off by crocodiles while in the act of swimming.
"The great sheiks paid me a visit, together with many of inferior rank.
Lokara, Quonga, Matonse, and Pittia, were among the principal chiefs of
the country. As they were sitting before me, Lokara lighted a huge pipe
and immediately commenced smoking. This is a great breach of etiquette,
as smoking is strictly forbidden in the presence of Kabba Rega.
"My old Cairo dragoman, Mohammed, who was now thoroughly installed as
one of the expedition, was well up in the customs of the country, and he
quietly resented the insult of the pipe.
"He gently approached with a bottle of water, which he poured politely
into the bowl, as though he was conferring a favour; at the same time,
he explained that in my presence every one smoked water instead of
tobacco. The hint was immediately taken, and the huge pipe, thus
summarily extinguished, was handed to a slave in attendance.
"We now entered upon geographical discussions. All the chiefs declared
that the M'wootan N'zige extends beyond Karagwe, and that it exceeds the
Victoria N'yanza in size. The native name, in Unyoro, for the Victoria
N'yanza is simply N'yanza, and for the White Nile, Masaba.
"There is a country called Barega on the Albert N'yanza, south-west of
Uganda, governed by a powerful king whose people are armed with bows,
and arrows that are feathered. I have never yet seen feathered arrows
among the White Nile tribes.
"The great mountain Bartooma is again mentioned, as on my former
journey. I imagine it must be identical with the M'fumbiro of Speke.
"I shall send an expedition front Magungo to Ibrahimeyah by river to
prove the capabilities of the route. I shall form a station at Magungo
to trade with Malegga on the opposite shore. I shall then thoroughly
explore the Albert N'yanza in boats, and afterwards proceed to King
M'tese of Uganda . . . .
"It rained last evening and during the night. Seven cows died. I have
erected a comfortable stable for the horses.
"April 1.--The people belonging to Suleiman hesitate to accept the
government pay, although a day or two ago they enlisted. I fear that
these people can never be trusted. I shall give them a little time to
consider, after which, if they refuse to serve, I shall turn them out of
the country. Every camp or zareeba is course full of slaves.
"There is a curious custom throughout Unyoro: a peculiar caste are
cattle-keepers. These people only attend to the herds, and the
profession is inherited from past generations. They are called Bohooma,
and they are the direct descendants of the Gallas who originally
conquered the country, and, like the reigning family, they are of an
extremely light colour. If the herds are carried off in battle, the
Bohooma, who never carry arms, accompany; them to their new masters, and
continue their employment. Nothing but death will separate them from
their cattle.
"April 2.--The natives built a zareeba yesterday for the cattle; but
they are dying as rapidly as upon the north side of the river.
"I tried to do a little geography with the sheik, Pittia. He was the man
who, some years ago, first gave me the information respecting the
distance of the Albert N'yanza from M'rooli. He would say nothing
without orders from the king, beyond telling me that you might travel
for months upon the lake.
"It is very annoying in this country that no information can be
obtained, neither can any work be commenced, without the direct order of
the king. My patience is sorely tried. No reply has as yet been
delivered to my message sent to Kabba Rega, although ten days have
elapsed.
"My desire is to benefit the country by opening the road for legitimate
commerce; but the difficulties are great, as the king will endeavour to
monopolize the market, and thus prevent free trade.
"April 3.--I sent for all the great sheiks to complain of Kabba Rega's
conduct. This young fellow was evidently aping the manners of his
father, Kamrasi, and attempting to show his own importance by keeping me
waiting. The sheiks explained, that before my arrival, Suleiman had
agreed to furnish soldiers to assist the forces of Kabba Rega in a
united attack upon Rionga; and the army was now only a short distance
from this spot, expecting the promised aid. My arrival had upset all
their plans, as I had forbidden all action until I should have had a
personal interview with Kabba Rega.
"The military operations were in abeyance until a reply should be
received from the king. The return messengers were expected this
evening.
"The sheiks declare that the ruling class in this country are all
exceedingly light in complexion 'because they do no work, but sit in the
shade and drink abundance of milk.'
"The natives of Unyoro are very inferior in PHYSIQUE to the Fatiko. This
is the result of vegetable food without either cereals or flesh. None of
the general public possess cattle; thus the food of the people from
infancy, after their mothers' milk has ceased, is restricted to
plantains and the watery sweet potatoes. The want of milk is very
detrimental to the children. The men generally exhibit a want of muscle,
and many are troubled with cutaneous diseases.
"April 4.--The messengers are reported to have arrived from Kabba Rega.
Last evening, at 8 P.M., we had a very heavy storm of rain with thunder.
Fifteen cows died to-day, and I fear we shall lose the greater portion
of the herd. All cattle that may be brought from the countries of Bari,
Madi, and Langgo, are said to die on arrival in Unyoro.
"April 5.--The great sheiks, Rahonka and Kittakara, arrived, together
with Lokara and Quonga, and the smaller fry, Pittia and Mallegge. The
latter was my guide to the Albert N'yanza many years ago.
"The 'Forty Thieves' and the band received them on arrival. The band
was, of course, encored, all being delighted with the big drum and the
cymbals. The latter were examined as great curiosities.
"Rahonka is Kamrasi's maternal uncle, and is great-uncle to Kabba Rega;
and he can give more information than any man concerning the
neighbouring countries.
"In reply to my inquiries about Livingstone, he says that two persons
are living in a large house in Karagwe, which they have constructed in a
different form to those of the natives. These people have no military
escort, but they possess a large quantity of goods. This does not sound
like Livingstone, unless he may have joined some Arab merchant.
"There are natives of Karagwe now visiting Kabba Rega at Masindi; thus I
shall have a good opportunity of making inquiries. There are likewise
envoys from M'tese in this country; therefore I shall be able to send
him a valuable present, and beg him to search for Livingstone in all
directions.
"April 6.--Kabba Rega's messengers presented themselves, with an
offering of two cows, a parcel of salt, and some plantains.
"One of these cows is a splendid animal from Umiro. She is the size of a
fair Durham--bright red colour--with immensely long and massive horns.
"Had I not had former experience in this country, and provided myself
with a herd of cattle, eve should have been half-starved, as there is
nothing to be procured but beans, sweet potatoes, and plantains.
"April 7.--We all crossed the river in canoes. A heavy shower fell this
morning. My improvident men have torn all their waterproof cloaks and
blankets just as we have arrived in a country where they will be most
required.
"April 8.--It now rains daily, more or less. The order was given by
Kabba Rega that we were to be supplied with carriers for the journey to
Masindi, which is to be under the charge of Rahonka. Suleiman and
Eddrees have arranged with their men, all of whom now present in the
camp have agreed to accept the government rate of pay, and to enlist for
twelve months. I accordingly issued serkis, or certificates, for each
man, with his name, date of engagement, and rate of wages.
"This is very satisfactory, as I shall now have a station in my rear on
the river, with the command of boats, while I march up the country to
Masindi. The irregulars in this station, which is in the district of
Foweera, number sixty-five men. If they remain faithful, they will form
a nucleus for the irregulars who will most probably follow their
example. I understand that a small party of seventeen men are now
staying with Kabba Rega. These people will join their comrades under
Suleiman, and raise the strength of the Foweera station to eighty-two
men. I shall thus be able to keep up a communication with my detachment
at Fatiko.
"April 9.--At the expiration of Agad's contract there were 188
elephants' tusks in the zareeba of Suleiman. These will remain in his
care.
"The natives collected were insufficient to convey all the loads. I
therefore sent off a division, escorted by Morgian Agha with ten men, to
await my arrival at the village of Deang. The sheik, Rahonka, killed a
man who attempted to evade the order to carry baggage.
"April 10.--Rain fell throughout the night, which makes everybody
miserable. During the middle watch, having been awakened by the heavy
shower, I heard the sentry outside my tent muttering a kind of low
chant:--'This is the country for rain and potatoes; this is the place
for potatoes and rain. Potatoes and rain, potatoes and rain; rain and
potatoes, rain and potatoes.'
"Neither the rain nor the potatoes were esteemed by the troops. The
roots were almost as watery as the rain, and their sweetness was
excessive. A very uncomfortable result from this vapid food was extreme
flatulence. The waist-belts of the boys were obliged to be let out by
several holes at the buckles. As my men justly declared, 'They were
uncomfortably full after a meal; but half-an-hour's march made them feel
as though they had fasted for a day.'
"During the afternoon I was sitting beneath a shady tree, with my wife
and Lieutenant Baker, when a naked native rushed wildly past the
sentries, and, before he could be restrained threw himself on the ground
and embraced my feet, at the same time begging for mercy by the Arabic
ejaculation, 'Aman! aman!'
"He was immediately seized. On examination through an interpreter, it
appeared that he was a native of Koitch, near Fatiko, and that he had
attached himself to Suleiman's party at some former time, but now he had
just escaped from the Foweera station, as Suleiman wished to kill him.
"In a few minutes Suleiman himself appeared: he was pale with rage.
"Suleiman was a thorough brigand in appearance. His father was a Kurd:
thus his complexion would have been white had he not been for many years
exposed to the African climate. He was a powerful dare-devil-looking
fellow, but even among his own people he was reputed cruel and
vindictive.
"He was so overpowered with passion that he approached and kissed my
hand at the same time imploring me, 'as a favour, to allow him to cut
off the native's head with his sabre.'
"Upon a trial of the case, I found that the native was a thief, and that
upon a former occasion he had stolen a gun and two pistols from the
camp, which, after some trouble, had been recovered. He was now accused
of aiding and abetting at the escape of five female slaves from the
zareeba during the past night, therefore he was to be beheaded without
delay.
"As this was not my form of punishment, especially for the crime of
_releasing slaves_ that had been captured by force, I ordered the native
to be secured in the zareeba until further orders, but on no account
should he be injured.
"Although I had heard from my old Cairo dragoman, Mohammed, that the
prisoner was a bad character, I did not wish to punish him severely, as
the effect among the natives of the country would be disastrous. He had
run to me for protection, therefore, should he suffer, a precedent would
be established that would deter others from appealing to me for mercy.
"The man was led away under a guard and was secured in the zareeba.
Suleiman acknowledged that he was in an inexcusable rage, but that I had
been just in my decision, and he would keep the prisoner in safe custody
until further orders. Suleiman was to accompany me on the journey to
Masindi on the following morning, as Rahonka had collected the native
carriers.
"That evening, after a heavy shower, we witnessed one of those
remarkable appearances of the winged white ants that issued from a mound
within a few yards of our tent. Millions of these large fat insects
struggled into their ephemeral flight, and were quickly caught by our
people with lighted wisps of straw. The ant disengages its wings a few
minutes after its appearance from the parent mound.
"The exodus from the ant-hill takes place annually at the commencement
of the rainy season, and the collection of the insects is considered to
be an important harvest throughout all Central Africa. The white ant, in
this stage of its existence, is esteemed as a great delicacy when fried
in a little butter.
"We tasted a considerable number, and found them tolerably good, but
with a slight flavour of burnt feathers.
"On April 11 we were ready to start, but at the last moment the vakeel,
Suleiman, who was to accompany us, excused himself until the next day,
as he had some important business to transact with his people. I
accordingly gave him permission to remain, but I ordered him to follow
me quickly, as it would be necessary to present him to Kabba Rega in his
new position as vakeel of the government." . . . .
It will now be necessary to explain the true position of affairs, which
at that time I did not suspect.
Upon my first arrival at the river, when I had explained my views to
Suleiman, he had immediately despatched a letter to Abou Saood at
Fatiko. His party had travelled fast, and they returned with an answer.
I could never discover the actual contents of the letter in reply, but I
heard that it cautioned Suleiman not to part with the slaves, and to
join Abou Saood with his ivory and all his people at the station of
Fabbo, a day's march west of Fatiko.
Suleiman was in an awkward position. He had always held a high place in
the eyes of Kabba Rega and his chiefs, and his alliance had been courted
and obtained for a combined attach upon the old enemy, Rionga. The army
of Kabba Rega had been waiting at the rendezvous in expectation of
Suleiman's assistance. A fleet of large canoes had been concentrated at
a given point for the invasion of the island; and Kabba Rega and his
sheiks considered that at length their old enemy was in the snare.
My unexpected arrival had ruined the project, as I strictly forbade
Suleiman to attack Rionga.
This disappointed Kabba Rega and his people, who could not understand
how I could be the friend of his late father Kamrasi, and at the same
time protect his enemy Rionga.
The attack on the island was a dangerous adventure, as it was surrounded
by dense masses of papyrus rush that would prevent canoes from landing,
except at certain places were narrow passages had been cleared. A few
men concealed among the papyrus could massacre an attacking party at
discretion, as they struggled through the narrow entrance in canoes. It
had been proposed that Suleiman's people were to attack in boats and
clear out the enemy by a sharp fire into the papyrus to cover the
general advance.
Suleiman was in a dilemma, as he had already promised alliance, and had
received a quantity of ivory in payment for his services. He had
accordingly made the following secret arrangement with Rahonka and
Lokara:--"Let the Pacha and his soldiers start for Masindi, and he will
suppose that Suleiman will follow on the morrow; instead of which, he
will at once join Kabba Rega's forces, and attack Rionga, when the Pacha
shall be several days' journey distant from the river."
On his return to Foweera from a successful invasion of Rionga's island,
the commanders of the forces, Lokara and Rahonka, were at once to
furnish carriers to transport Suleiman with all his people and ivory to
the Fabbo station, according to the instructions received from Abou
Saood.
I should thus be deceived, and be left at Masindi, 160 miles distant
from my detachment at Fatiko, without the power of communication.
At 8.30 A.M. we were in the saddle, and started from Foweera. Suleiman
came to kiss my hand at my departure. We rode at once into the low
forest, and as the last man of our party disappeared from view, Suleiman
returned to his zareeba. He then prepared for vengeance, which through
my presence had long been delayed.
He and his ferocious people dragged the prisoner (whose life I had
protected) from the camp, until they arrived at a thick grove of
plantains about 200 paces from the station. Rahonka, Lokara, Quonga,
Matonse, and other principal chiefs, were summoned to witness the
impotence of the Pacha's power to save; and to see with their own eyes
the defiance that Suleiman would exhibit to the orders of a Christian.
"Now let the natives clasp the knees of the Pacha and defy the power of
Suleiman!"
The ruffian drew his sabre, and with his own hand, in the presence of a
crowd of witnesses, he hacked off the head of the unfortunate prisoner,
and thus publicly ridiculed my authority.
In the mean time, while this murder was being committed, we were
travelling onward without a suspicion of treachery. (It will be seen how
by degrees I became acquainted with the crime and designs of Suleiman,
who had already secretly forwarded instructions to his men at Masindi at
the same time that he had communicated in his rear with Abou Saood at
Fatiko.)
Accompanied by Lady Baker, I rode at the head of the party with my usual
advanced guard of five picked men of "The Forty." Lieutenant Baker
walked on foot, as he wished to save his horse's back that was slightly
galled.
We rode far in advance, as there was no danger to be apprehended in this
country, and my five guards with knapsacks, small axes, and general
accoutrements, kept the pace of four miles an hour for about twenty-one
miles to Kisoona. The march had been through forest, and grass about
four feet in height, which was now growing vigorously after the recent
showers. The large trees were covered with orchids, among which I
noticed a peculiar species which hung from the boughs like an apron.
This was exceedingly pretty, as the leaf was about eighteen inches in
breadth, the edges were scalloped and of a copper-brown colour, while
the upper portion was dark green.
The whole country had been desolated by civil war, in which the
companions of Abou Saood had taken a prominent part, and had carried off
a great number of the women.
Kisoona was a poor straggling place in the centre of the forest; but
although the beehive-shaped huts were far apart, there was the usual
amount of filth and ashes that disgrace the villages of Unyoro. A very
large plantation of bananas afforded food for the inhabitants, all of
whom seemed to have disappeared.
Throughout Unyoro the soil is exceedingly rich; the tobacco gardens
exhibited an extreme luxuriance, and the size of the leaves formed a
great contrast to the plants in the hot soil of the Bari country.
I placed a sentry over the tobacco, and cautioned the troops against
stealing or in any way damaging the crops.
A native of Umiro travelled as our interpreter. This man was a
confidential slave belonging to Kabba Rega, and formed one of his
regiment. Umbogo (or the "Buffalo") was a highly intelligent fellow, and
spoke good Arabic, as he had been constantly associated with the Arab
slave-traders. I had supplied him with clothes, and he looked quite
respectable in a blue shirt belted round the waist, with a
cartouche-pouch of leopard's skin, that had been given him by the people
of the zareeba. Umbogo carried a musket, and was altogether a very
important personage, although a slave.
The long march of twenty-one miles, through forest, along a rough and
narrow path, had delayed the carriers and the cattle. Although my men
had stepped along so briskly, the rear-guard did not arrive until the
evening. A tremendous downpour of rain deluged the ground. This was a
godsend to us, who were well housed and tented, as we caught a good
supply of water with the mackintosh camp-sheets that was very superior
to the contents of a small pool, which usually sufficed for the village
people.
I always travelled with a large sponging bath, which was one of the
household gods of the expedition. This was now full of pure rain water.
The value of this old friend was incalculable. In former years I had
crossed the Atbara river in this same bath, lashed upon an angareb
(stretcher), supported by inflated skins. Without extra flotation it
would support my weight, and it was always used when crossing a small
stream, assisted by two men wading, one of whom held it on either side
to prevent it from overturning. Thus we could travel without the
necessity of plunging into deep mud and water.
Such a utensil was invaluable for watering the horses; also for washing
clothes, or for receiving a supply of rain-water during a shower, from
the camp-sheets suspended above the bath.
The neighbourhood of Kisoona was very populous, but the villages were
all concealed in the forest, amidst vast groves of bananas.
There was a large tract of potato cultivation; a supply of these welcome
roots was with difficulty obtained from the natives.
It appeared to be a repetition of my former experience in this country,
which unpleasantly reminded me of the scarcity of food during my first
exploration of Unyoro.
On the following morning (12th April), when the horses were saddled and
we were ready to start, not a single native was forthcoming. Every man
of about 200 carriers had absconded!
"Although Rahonka had assured me, previous to starting from the river,
that food would be ready for the troops at every halting-place, nothing
has been prepared. We are thus left as much neglected as during my
former voyage in this detestable country. There is not one sheik with
us, although three principal chiefs were told off to accompany us to
Masindi. I therefore told our friend Pittia that I should not proceed
farther, as I would have nothing to do with so miserable a king as Kabba
Rega.
"I immediately sent Colonel Abd-el-Kader back to Foweera with thirty
men, and a letter to Suleiman, ordering him to collect 300 men at once
to return my effects to his zareeba. I tied Pittia, the guide, by a
small cord attached to the neck, as I feared he also might escape. What
can be done with these treacherous people?
"There is a report, now confirmed by the dragoman, Umbogo, that a plan
had been arranged between Suleiman and Rahonka that I should be led out
of their way, and they would then join their forces and attack Rionga.
"I do not believe that Suleiman would place his head in such a halter.
"Very heavy rain at 1 P.M.
"April 13.--The soil is wonderfully fertile--this is a chocolate-
coloured vegetable loam. Among the crops is a species of esculent
solanum, with large orange-coloured berries; both the fruit and leaves
are eaten by the natives.
"I repaired my boots to-day with the milk from the india-rubber-tree.
Julian (Lieutenant Baker) had fever. Colonel Abd-el-Kader and party
returned at 2.40 P.M., having marched rapidly, and accomplished their
mission and a journey of forty-two miles in twenty-seven hours and forty
minutes.
"This excellent officer brought with him, secured by a small leather
thong, by the neck, the great sheiks Kittakara, Matonse, and several
smaller fry.
"The royal sheik, Rahonka, escaped by breaking through the side of his
hut.
"The report was as follows:--
"Colonel Abd-el-Kader and his party of thirty men had arrived at
Suleiman's zareeba at about 8 P.M. He found the vakeels, Suleiman and
Eddrees, surrounded by many of their men, apparently in consultation.
"Upon Abd-el-Kader's appearance, the men moved off, one by one, and
quietly packed up their effects, preparatory to a general flight.
"Abd-el-Kader informed Suleiman of the desertion of our carriers. He
then at once proceeded to the native zareeba, about 200 yards from the
camp. He there found the principal sheiks in the hut of Rahonka.
"Abd-el-Kader immediately informed them of the purport of his arrival,
and requested the sheiks to accompany him to the zareeba of Suleiman.
Rahonka begged to be left alone for a short time to enable him to dress.
"Abd-el-Kader waited outside the door of the hut, and, becoming tired of
so long a delay, he re-entered, and to his astonishment found the
dwelling _empty._ Rahonka had escaped by a hole in the straw wall.
"Suspicion being raised by the incomprehensible flight of Rahonka, the
colonel placed the remaining sheiks under a guard, and led them to
Suleiman's zareeba. He then applied to Suleiman for a guard of eight men
to watch the sheiks during the night, as his own party required rest.
"Suleiman now informed him that he could not supply the men, as all his
people had absconded from fear (of Abd-el-Kader).
"On the following morning the colonel perceived, from the smoke above
our old camp on the opposite side of the river (which in this part is
500 yards broad), that Suleiman's people had escaped during the night,
and had crossed the river with all their slaves and effects.
"This was the first act of my new irregular levy--they had positively
run away from the colonel like a parcel of hostile natives!
"Suleiman and Eddrees declared that they could not control their men,
who were afraid that I had ordered my officer to release the slaves that
were in their possession. (The truth was they considered that I had
heard of the murder of the prisoner committed to the care of Suleiman,
and that I had sent the colonel and his party to make inquiries.)
"Abd-el-Kader ordered Suleiman to accompany him to my halting-place at
Kisoona. Suleiman declined upon the excuse that he had some business,
but that he would present himself to-morrow."
"I can stand these scoundrels' conduct no longer. I have tried lenient
measures, and I had hoped that by forming Suleiman's party into an
irregular corps I might be able, by degrees, to change their habits, and
to reduce them by good discipline into useful troops, but 'Can the
Ethiopian change his skin, or the leopard his spots?'
"I immediately released and examined the captive sheiks, who one and all
declared that the fault lay with Suleiman, who had previously arranged
the plan with Rahonka: that when I should be led away a distance of two
days' journey, he would assemble his men and attack Rionga in
conjunction with Rahonka's army.
"The report of Umbogo, the dragoman, is thus corroborated by
overwhelming evidence. This man, Umbogo, declares that Abou Saood wrote
to Suleiman, instructing him to wait until I should have passed on, and
then to bring all his slaves to Fabbo.
"I immediately sent Captain Mohammed Deii with fifty men, including
twenty-five of the 'Forty Thieves,' with orders to liberate all slaves
that might be discovered within the zareeba. He was to summon all the
people of Suleiman, and to disarm those who had run away from the
colonel, Abd-el-Kader.
"In the event of resistance, he was to use the force at his disposal,
and at all hazards to prevent the escape of the slavers across the
river.
"Suleiman and Eddrees were to be brought before me.
"A heavy shower fell just after the troops started.
"April 14.--Julian's horse, Gazelle, died last night; the poor animal
had been ill for some days.
"Quonga, who is the sheik of this district, came this morning and
excused his absence in rather a lame fashion, by saying that he had been
collecting food for the troops, together with carriers, who are now
ready to transport the baggage to Masindi. He declared that Kabba Rega
was impatient, and had sent three of Suleiman's people to deliver the
message to me, but these rascals had passed on this morning direct to
the zareeba of Suleiman, without communicating with us on the way.
"Quonga not only corroborated the testimony of the sheiks and the
dragoman, Umbogo, against Suleiman, as having conspired to attack Rionga
after my departure, but he gave additional evidence, that 'Suleiman had
told Rahonka and the great sheiks that I, the Pacha, knew nothing about
war, that none of the government troops could shoot, and that I should
only travel and subsist upon the country, but that he (Suleiman) would
join them and kill Rionga after I should have departed.'
"This I believe to be true, as a few days ago, when speaking of the
troops, I told Suleiman that the Soudanis were very hardy soldiers for
marching and resisting climate, but that generally they were bad shots.
Thus, in a treacherous manner, he has informed the natives that the
soldiers of the government cannot shoot. In the afternoon, fresh reports
reached me that Suleiman had, with his own hands, murdered the native to
whom I had given protection. He had committed this horrible act the
instant that my back was turned, and he had exhibited the crime before
the great sheiks in derision of my authority!
"At 4.30 P.M. Captain Mohammed Deii returned with his party of fifty
men, together with the vakeels, Suleiman and Eddrees, with six of their
men who had been met upon their road from Masindi, and eight slaves.
"As I had expected, the greater number of Suleiman's people had escaped
with their slaves to Fabbo, when the Colonel, Abd-el-Kader, had suddenly
appeared among them; his arrival had disconcerted all Suleiman's
arrangements, and my detention at Kisoona had completely upset all his
plans respecting an alliance with Rahonka's army. That cunning general
had gone off straight to Kabba Rega after his escape through the wall of
his hut.
"I summoned the great sheiks, Kittakara, Quonga, together with Pittia,
and several others. These men gave their evidence most clearly as
witnesses to the plan arranged by Suleiman for the attack upon Rionga;
and as eye-witnesses to the murder of the prisoner, whom they saw
dragged by Suleiman and his men to the grove of bananas, where he was
beheaded.
"I ordered Suleiman and his people to be disarmed; and secured both him
and Eddrees in shebas.
"The sun had set, and, the sky being over-cast, it had become extremely
dark.
"I proceeded at once to the trial of Suleiman and Eddrees, as the
witnesses were all present.
"The bugler sounded the 'taboor' (assembly), and the officers and troops
quickly appeared, and formed in line two deep, facing the table at which
we sat. I ordered half-a-dozen large port-fires to be brought; these
were lighted and held by six men who stepped forward from the ranks. The
blaze of red light illumined the whole neighbourhood, and cast a
peculiar glow upon the dark foliage of the bananas and the forms of the
dusky chiefs who sat in a line opposite the troops.
"Suleiman and Eddrees were led by the guard, and appeared before the
tribunal. Suleiman, although pinioned, retained the same haughty swagger
that had always distinguished him. The charges against him were as
follows:
"1. For having conspired to attack Rionga, in direct opposition to my
positive orders.
"2. For treasonably speaking against the government of the Khedive to
the native chiefs.
"3. For arranging and abetting the escape of the irregular new levy, who
had enlisted in the government service, together with that of the
slaves.
"4. For having murdered, with his own hands, a native whom I had
confided to his care.
"After a careful trial the prisoner was found guilty upon every charge;
and the second vakeel, Eddrees, was proved to have been an accomplice.
"I immediately sentenced Suleiman to receive 200 lashes upon the spot,
as a first instalment of future punishment. Blue lights had been
substituted for the port-fires that had burned out, and the haughty
brigand, Suleiman, was laid upon the ground by the ready troops to
receive his punishment.
"My ever-present attendant, Monsoor, volunteered to be one of the
whippers, and the pride and audacity of the prisoner were soon exchanged
for effeminate cries for pardon. It was this same man, Suleiman, who had
flogged a poor boy nearly to death during my former journey, and the
life of the child had with difficulty been saved by the kind attention
of my wife. When he now cried for mercy, I recalled to his recollection
the unfortunate boy whose posterior he had literally CUT OFF with a whip
of hippopotamus' hide. . . .
"Eddrees was sentenced to receive 100 lashes, but when thirty strokes
had been administered, the native chiefs interceded in his behalf,
saying that the great blame rested upon Suleiman, and that Eddrees was
not a bad man, but that he was obliged to obey the orders of his
superior.
"They now continued, 'that Suleiman had ruined the country, that he had
kidnapped all the women and children, and that the natives had fled from
their homes as the result.'
"I was much struck with the straightforward, at the same time moderate
behaviour of the native chiefs. I accordingly spared Eddrees, who at
once turned evidence against Suleiman, together with two of his own
soldiers.
"They signed a declaration as witnesses of the murder of the native by
Suleiman. This paper was formally witnessed and signed by Lieutenant
Baker, Colonel Abd-el-Kader, and Captain Mohammed Deii.
"The punishment having been awarded and the prisoners withdrawn, but
secured in shebas by the guard, I addressed the native chiefs, assuring
them of my protection; and that in future the country should be governed
with perfect justice; that property and the rights of women and children
would be respected, and that any transgressor of the law would be
punished. I explained that the object of the expedition was to bring
prosperity; but, on the other hand, I should expect fidelity from Kabba
Rega and his people. I told them that I should lead the prisoners in
shebas to Kabba Rega, he must then summon a general assembly of his
chiefs to hear and witness the truth.
"I now ordered the bugler to sound the 'destoor' (retreat), and the
troops marched back to their quarters.
"The trial was over; the blue lights had burnt out, and we were now in
comparative darkness beneath the banana foliage, with a feeble lamp
glimmering on the table.
"The native chiefs declared their perfect confidence in the government,
and that we should start on the following morning direct for Masindi."