Elchee's Lectures--Mehmandar's Journal--Arab
Nurse--Blue-beard--Persian Ceremony--King's Picture.
The Elchee, from the moment we landed in Persia, has been lecturing us
on the importance of the conduct of every individual, as connected with
a just impression of the national character. "These Persians," said he
to us one day, "have no knowledge beyond their country; they understand
no language but their own and Arabic; and though all the better classes
read, the books to which they have access afford them little if any
information, except of Asia. Europe, in fact, is only known by name,
and by general and confused accounts of the fame of its nations, and
their comparative greatness. They are, however," he added, "a very
keen and observing people, and full of curiosity. In the absence of
books, they will peruse us, and from what they hear and see, form their
opinion of our country. Let us take care, therefore, that nothing is
found in the page but what is for the honour of England; and believe me
that, with such a people, more depends upon personal impressions than
treaties."
With these sentiments, every word and act was shaped by him, and, so
far as he could command and influence them, by others, to raise the
English character. It was not enough that we were to give an example of
all kinds of good qualities, but we were to be active and capable of
fatigue, to show the Persians we were soldiers. The Envoy or Elchee,
as they called him, happened to have a robust form, and a passion for
shooting and hunting. It was, therefore, nothing more than an amusement
to him to ride fifty or sixty miles of a morning, that he might surpass
his Mehmandar or entertainer in his own line, but it was far otherwise
to many of his suite. I did not like it; and a near relation of his,
who was rather weak, and, like me, of sedentary habits, used to inveigh
bitterly against these "political rides," as he scoffingly termed
them. There was, however, some sense in the Elchee's proceedings, as I
discovered, when an intimacy with our old Mehmandar, Mahomed Sheriff
Khan, a Burgashattee,[20] led to his showing me a journal he had
written for the information of the court by whom he was deputed, in
order to enable them to judge, by the aid of his observations, what
kind of a person and nation they had to deal with. I shall transcribe
the passage, which was literally as follows:--
"The Elchee and the English gentlemen with him, rise at dawn of day;
they mount their horses and ride for two or three hours, when they
come home and breakfast. From that time till four o'clock, when they
dine, the Elchee is either looking at horses, conversing, reading, or
writing; he never lies down, and, if he has nothing else to do, he
walks backwards and forwards before his tent-door, or within it. He
sits but a short time at dinner, mounts his horse again in the evening,
and when returned from his ride, takes tea, after which he converses,
or plays at cards till ten o'clock, when he retires to rest; and next
day pursues nearly the same course.
"What I chiefly remark is, that neither he nor any of the gentlemen
sleep during the day, nor do they ever, when the weather is warm,
recline upon carpets as we do. They are certainly very restless
persons; but when it is considered that these habits cause their
employing so much more time every day in business, and in acquiring
knowledge, than his Majesty's subjects, it is evident that at the
end of a year they must have some advantage. I can understand, from
what I see, better than I could before, how this extraordinary people
conquered India. My office is very fatiguing, for the Elchee, though
a good-natured man, has no love of quiet, and it is my duty to be
delighted with all he does, and to attend him on all occasions."
This journal was written upon observations made before we left
Abusheher. The poor old Mehmandar was compelled, soon after we marched,
to slack in his constant attendance; for, as the Elchee's duty and
inclination coincided, he was seldom satisfied with a stage of twenty
or thirty miles, but usually went out in the evening of the same day
to hunt, which, no doubt, made the desired impression, and led the
Persians in his suite to think, if the English, in very sport, so
harassed their friends, what would become of their enemies?
My friend, Mahomed Sheriff Khan, was, as appears from his journal, a
keen observer. He had the reputation of being a good soldier; but his
distinguishing feature was pride in his condition as the chief of a
tribe, and as representing, in his person, a portion of the authority
of the King of Kings! This pride, however, which often flamed forth in
real or assumed rage, was much regulated in its action by a regard for
his own interests. He was always civil to the Elchee, and those with
him, but to all upon whom his office gave him claims his demeanour was
haughty and overbearing, till soothed by concession or bribes. I met
the Mehmandar one morning, with a man leading a beautiful Arab colt, to
which he pointed, saying, "That old scoundrel, Shaikh Nasser (Governor
of Abusheher), had very nearly deprived me of that animal." "What!"
said I, "could he venture to take him from you?" "No," said he; "the
horse was his; but he had concealed him so carefully that I was near
going away without getting him. I heard of him before I left Shiraz,
and have been on the search ever since I came to Abusheher. I have just
found him, hidden in an inner room, covered with dirt: and then to hear
how the old fool whined about this colt of his favourite Daghee,[21] as
he called him. He meant him, he said, to mount his son, a puny wretch,
who was standing by, entreating me to listen to his father's prayer,
and not to take away their only favourite; to save which, they offered
several useless animals and some money. But I laughed out loud,"
concluded Mahomed Sheriff Khan, stroking his grizzly beard, "and said,
they knew little of an old wolf like me, if they thought I was to be
moved by their bleating, or tricked by their cunning. 'Go,' said I to
the old Shaikh, 'and build a boat for that hopeful heir of yours; it
will befit him better than a horse like this, which is only suited for
a son of mine to ride upon.'"
I soon afterwards saw old Shaikh Nasser moving slowly along, muttering
his usual phrase, "There's no harm done:[22] Persian scoundrels, Arab
fools, all will go to hell together! God is just!--Well, well, there's
no harm done." I spoke to him--he took no notice, but went to his usual
seat to superintend some carpenters, who were building a vessel which
had been on the stocks about seventy years; there his smothered passion
found vent in the most virulent abuse of all his tribe who approached
him. When I spoke to him some time afterwards, he seemed in better
humour. "This ship," said he, pointing to the ribs of the rude vessel,
"will be finished some day or other, and she will hold us all: there is
no harm done."
Mahomed Sheriff Khan used to laugh at his own habits, which he deemed
less personal than belonging to his condition. One day, when riding
through the streets, he observed me looking significantly at his
Tûrkûman horse stretching his long neck to seize some greens, which a
man was carrying in a basket on his head--"He has learnt it,"[23] said
my friend, with a smile.
When I looked on the desert arid plains which lie between Abusheher
and the mountains, and saw the ignorant, half-naked, swarthy men and
women broiling under a burning sun, with hardly any food but dates, my
bosom swelled with pity for their condition, and I felt the dignity
of the human species degraded by their contented looks. "Surely,"
said I to Khojah Arratoon, an Armenian (known in the mission by the
name of Blue-beard),[24] "these people cannot be so foolish as to be
happy in this miserable and uninstructed state. They appear a lively,
intelligent race--can they be insensible to their comparatively
wretched condition? Do they not hear of other countries? have they
no envy, no desire for improvement?" The good old Armenian smiled,
and said, "No; they are a very happy race of people, and so far from
envying the condition of others, they pity them. But," added he, seeing
my surprise, "I will give you an anecdote which will explain the ground
of this feeling.
"Some time since, an Arab woman, an inhabitant of Abusheher, went
to England[25] with the children of a Mr. Beauman. She remained in
your country four years. When she returned, all gathered round her to
gratify their curiosity about England. 'What did you find there? is it
a fine country? are the people rich? are they happy?' She answered,
'The country was like a garden; the people were rich, had fine clothes,
fine houses, fine horses, fine carriages, and were said to be very wise
and happy.' Her audience were filled with envy of the English, and a
gloom spread over them, which showed discontent at their own condition.
They were departing with this sentiment, when the woman happened to
say, 'England certainly wants one thing.' 'What is that?' said the
Arabs eagerly. 'There is not a single date tree in the whole country!'
'Are you sure?' was the general exclamation. 'Positive,' said the old
nurse; 'I looked for nothing else all the time I was there, but I
looked in vain.' This information produced an instantaneous change of
feeling among the Arabs: it was pity, not envy, that now filled their
breasts; and they went away, wondering how men could live in a country
where there were no date trees!"
This anecdote was told me as I was jogging on the road, alongside
my friend Blue-beard, on our first march from Abusheher. I rode the
remainder of the way (ten good miles) without speaking a word, but
pondering on the seeming contradiction between the wisdom of Providence
and the wisdom of man. I even went so far as to doubt the soundness of
many admirable speeches and some able pamphlets I had read, regarding
the rapid diffusion of knowledge. I changed to a calculating mood, and
began to think it was not quite honest, even admitting it was wise, to
take away what men possessed, of content and happiness, until you could
give them an equal or greater amount of the same articles.
Before leaving Abusheher we had received many proofs of the favour of
the Prince Regent of Shiraz. Soon after our arrival at that place,
a favourite officer of his guards brought a present of twelve mule
loads of fruit. When this young man came to pay his respects to the
Elchee, Khojah Arratoon desired to withdraw. When asked the reason:
"Why," said he, "the person who is deputed by the Prince is a Georgian,
the son of my next door neighbour in Teflis. When Aga Mahomed Khan
plundered that city, in 1797, he was made a prisoner, with twenty or
thirty thousand young persons of both sexes; and having since been
compelled to become a Mahomedan, and now enjoying high rank, he may be
embarrassed at seeing me." The Envoy said, "It does not signify; you
are my Treasurer, and must be present at the visit of ceremony: depend
upon it he will not notice you." It was as predicted; the bearer of the
present, a very handsome young man, superbly dressed, and of finished
manners, appeared to have no knowledge of Arratoon, though his eye
rested on him once or twice. When the visit was over, the good Armenian
could not contain himself: "The vile Mahomedan wretch!" he exclaimed,
"he has lost sight and feeling, as well as religion and virtue. Have I
given him sweetmeats so often, to be stared at as a stranger? I should
like to know who was his father, that he should look down upon me. It
will be a mournful tale," he concluded, "that I shall have to write to
his mother, who is in great distress, and who, poor deluded creature!
lives in hopes that there is still some good in this dog of a son of
hers." There was a mixture of wounded pride, of disappointment, and
humanity, in Blue-beard's sentiments, that made them at once amusing,
and affecting.
He came, however, early next morning to the Envoy with a very different
countenance, and evidently deeply affected. "What injustice have I
not done," said he, "to that excellent young man! He sent a secret
messenger to me last night; and when we met, ran to embrace me, and
after telling me the short tale of his captivity, sufferings, and
subsequent advancement, inquired in the most earnest manner after
his mother. He has not only given a hundred tomans to relieve her
immediate wants, but has settled that I am to be the Agent for future
remittances. He informed me that he recognised the friend of his youth,
and never had more difficulty than in the effort to appear a stranger;
but he explained his reasons for being so cautious: he is not only a
Mahomedan, but has married into a respectable family, and is a great
favourite with the Prince, and must, therefore, avoid any conduct
that could bring the least shade of suspicion on the sincerity of his
faith or allegiance. I shall make his mother very happy," continued
Blue-beard, who was evidently quite flattered by the personal attention
of the young Georgian, and the confidence reposed in him; "for I will,
when I send her the tomans, tell her my conviction, that her son,
whatever he may profess, is a Christian in his heart. Indeed he must be
so; for if he had been a true Mahomedan he would have acted like one,
and have disowned, not supported, his mother, whom he must consider an
infidel."
The Prince Regent of Fars, or Persia Proper, sent, soon after our
arrival at Abusheher, a young nobleman of his own tribe, Hassan Khan
Kajir, to attend the Elchee as Mehmandar. My intimacy, from old
acquaintance, with Jaffier Khan, Governor of Abusheher, led to his
showing me the letter he had received from his brother, the Prince's
vizier, regarding the reception of this personage. It is so good a
specimen of the minute attention the Persians give to forms that I
translated it. Its contents were as follows:--
"MY DEAR BROTHER,
"HASSAN Khan Kajir, who is appointed Mehmandar to General Malcolm, is a
nobleman of the first rank and family. He will keep you informed of his
progress. When he arrives at Dalkhee[26] he will send on this letter,
and write you on the subject of his waiting upon the General, the day
he comes to camp. You will proceed to meet him, with all the garrison
of Abusheher, as far as the date trees on the border of the desert. You
will accompany him to General Malcolm's tent, and, when he leaves it,
you will proceed with him to his own tent, which must be pitched as the
General desires, on the right or left of his encampment. If Hassan Khan
Kajir arrives in the morning, you will stay and breakfast with him;
if in the evening, you will dine with him. Your future attention will
be regulated by your politeness and good sense, and you will always
consider him as a noble guest, who should be entertained in a manner
suitable to his rank and the distinguished situation to which he is
appointed, of Mehmandar to General Malcolm."
The Mehmandar wrote a letter with this, in which he explained to the
Governor, as modestly as the subject would admit, his own expectations.
The Governor was anxious to know how the Envoy would receive him; and
when told that two officers would meet him at a short distance from the
camp, and that the escort would be drawn up before the tent at which
he alighted to salute him, his mind was at rest, as he was sure such
attention would be gratifying to this sixteenth cousin of Majesty.
Hassan Khan made his appearance next day, and proved to be a fine
young man, about twenty-six years of age, of excellent manners and
handsome in person, with grey eyes, and a very pleasing expression of
countenance. At this visit he was profuse in professions of the regard
in which the King and Prince held the Elchee, both of whom, he said,
were anxious for the advance of the Mission.
It is not only in attention to persons, deputed by kings and princes in
Persia, that respect for royalty is shown; it extends to the reception
of letters, dresses, and presents, and every inanimate thing with
which their name is associated. The object is to impart to all ranks
a reverence and awe for the sovereign and those to whom he delegates
power. In short, no means are neglected that can keep alive, or impress
more deeply, the duty of implicit obedience.
Some time before we landed at Abusheher, the Envoys of Scind had been
at that port on their return from Teheran. They carried, among other
presents to their Prince, a picture of his Majesty, Fatteh Ali Shâh.
This painting was carefully packed in a deal box; but the inclosed
image of royalty could not be allowed to pass through his dominions
without receiving marks of respect hardly short of those that would
have been shown to the sovereign himself.
The Governor and inhabitants of Abusheher went a stage to meet it: they
all made their obeisance at a respectful distance. On its entering the
gates of the city a royal salute was fired; and when the Envoys who
had charge of it embarked, the same ceremonies were repeated, and not
a little offence was taken at the British Resident because he declined
taking a part in this mummery.
FOOTNOTES:
[20] Burgashattee is the name of a small Turkish tribe, of which this
old nobleman was chief.
[21] A celebrated stud-horse of Shaikh Nasser.
[22] _Aibee na dared_, which is literally translated in the text, was
a phrase used by this old chief on every occasion.
[23] _Amookhta ast._
[24] The nick-name of Blue-beard was given by some of the young men of
our party to our Treasurer, Khojah Arratoon, from that colour being
one day predominant in the dye he had used to ornament his beard. This
excellent man is now no more.
[25] This story has been told by Sir John Malcolm, in his history, in
illustration of some of his facts or opinions; but he has taken this,
and many other equally good things, from me, without ever acknowledging
them; I shall, therefore, stand on no ceremony when it suits my purpose
to reclaim my property.
[26] Fifty miles from Bushire.