SUMMARY OF CURATIVE PROCESSES.
The following summary of the most approved formula for preventing and
curing the evils of rot is prepared from the works of Tredgold and
Wylson; some other more modern receipts have been added from ‘The
Builder,’ ‘Architect,’ ‘Building News,’ and other professional periodical
publications. Discretion in their use is recommended, and in serious
cases we decidedly recommend consulting a professional man who is well
acquainted with the subject.
TO PRESERVE WOODWORKS THAT ARE EXPOSED TO WET OR DAMP.
1. For those of an extensive nature, such as bridges, &c. The Hollanders
use for the preservation of their sluices and floodgates, drawbridges,
and other huge beams of timber exposed to the sun and constant changes of
the atmosphere, a certain mixture of pitch and tar, upon which they strew
small pieces of shell broken finely--almost to a powder--and mixed with
sea-sand, and the scales of iron, small and sifted, which incrusts and
preserves it effectually.
2. A paint composed of sub-sulphate of iron (the refuse of the copperas
pans), ground up with any common oil, and thinned with coal-tar oil,
having a little pitch dissolved in it, is flexible, and impervious to
moisture.
3. Linseed oil and tar, in equal parts, well boiled together, and used
while boiling, rubbed plentifully over the work while hot, after being
scorched all over by wood burnt under it, strikes half an inch or more
into the wood, closes the pores, and makes it hard and durable either
under or out of water.
4. For fences, and similar works, a coating of coal-tar, sanded over; or,
boil together one gallon of coal-tar and 2½ lb. of white copperas, and
lay it on hot.
TO PREVENT ROT.
1. Thoroughly season the wood before fixing, and when fixed, have a
proper ventilation all round it.
2. Charring, after seasoning, will fortify timber against infection, so
will a coating of coal-tar.
TO CURE INCIPIENT DRY ROT.
1. If very much infected, remove the timber, and replace with new.
2. A pure solution of corrosive sublimate in water, in the proportion of
an ounce to a gallon, used hot, is considered a very effectual wash.
3. A solution of sulphate of copper, half a pound to the gallon of water,
laid on hot.
4. A strong solution of sulphate of iron; this is not so good as sulphate
of copper.
5. A strong solution of sulphates of iron and copper in equal parts,
half a pound of the sulphates to one and a half gallon of water.
6. Paraffin oil, the commonest and cheapest naphtha and oil, or a little
resinous matter dissolved and mixed with oil, will stay the wet rot.
7. Remove the parts affected, and wash with dilute sulphuric acid the
remaining woodwork.
8. Dissolve one pound of sulphate of copper in one gallon of boiling
water, then add 1¼ lb. of sulphuric acid in six gallons of water, and
apply hot.
TO PREVENT WORMS IN TIMBER.
1. Anointing with an oil produced by the immersion of sulphur in
aquafortis (nitric acid) distilled to dryness, and exposed to dissolve in
the air.
2. Soaking in an infusion of quassia renders the wood bitter.
3. Creosoting timber, if the smell is not objectionable.
4. Anointing the timber with oil of spike, juniper, or turpentine, is
efficacious in some degree.
5. For small articles, cover freely with copal varnish in linseed oil.
TO PREVENT WORMS IN MARINE BUILDING.
1. A mixture of lime, sulphur, and colocynth with pitch.
2. Saturating the pores with coal-tar, either alone or after a solution
of corrosive sublimate has been soaked and dried into the wood.
3. Sheathing with thin copper over tarred felt is esteemed the best
protection for the bottoms of ships for all marine animals; the joints
should be stopped with tarred oakum.
4. Studding the parts under water with short broad-headed nails.
TO DESTROY WORMS IN CARVINGS.
1. Fumigate the wood with benzine.
2. Saturate the wood with a strong solution of corrosive sublimate: if
used for carvings, the colour should be restored by ammonia, and then by
a weak solution of hydrochloric acid; the holes may be stopped up with
gum and gelatine, and a varnish of resin dissolved in spirits of wine
should afterwards be applied to the surface.
3. Whale-oil and poisonous ointments have been found of service.
The wood should be carefully brushed before being operated upon.
TO DESTROY ANTS AND INSECTS IN WOOD.
1. Corrosive sublimate is an effectual poison to them.
2. Oils, especially essential oils, are good preventives.
3. Cajeput-oil has been proved effectual for destroying the red ant.
4. Payne’s, Bethell’s, and Burnett’s processes are said to be proof
against the white ant of India.
5. Dust the parts with pounded quicklime, and then water them with the
ammoniacal liquor of gas-works, when the ammonia will be instantly
disengaged by the quicklime, and this is destructive to insect life.
6. For the black ant, use powdered borax; or smear the parts frequented
by them with petroleum oil; or syringe their nests with fluoric acid or
spirits of tar, to be done with a leaden syringe; or pour down the holes
boiling water to destroy their nests, and then stop up the holes with
cement. Ants dislike arsenic, camphor, and creosote.
The preceding remedies are not by any means given with the intention of
superseding the previous chapters, which should be carefully studied by
those who wish to acquire a moderate knowledge of the subjects.