The Illustrious Ambassador crosses the Caspian Sea and arrives
at Citracan, a Tartar city. After having been much alarmed by
the Tartars on several occasions, he departs, at length, with
the caravan, for Muscovy.
On the 15th, the wind springing up in the morning, we made sail, and,
after coasting those cane islands nearly the whole time, entered the
mouth of the Volga on the 26th. The Volga is a very large river and deep
in many places; it flows from Russia and discharges itself into the Sea
of Bachu, it is said, by seventy-two mouths. From its mouth to Citracan
the distance is seventy-five miles. On account of the strong current
which we ascended, sometimes by towing and sometimes by means of the
wind, we did not reach Citracan until the 30th. Between Citracan and
the coast there is a very large salt lake yielding salt of excellent
quality, from which Russia is principally supplied, and which would
suffice for a great part of the world. The Tartars, that is, the Lord of
Citracan, would not allow us to come on shore that day. Marco, however,
was permitted to land, as he had some friends in the town. On the first
evening I also was admitted, with my people, into the little house where
Marco lodged, and accommodated for the night. In the morning came three
ill-favoured Tartars, who told Marco that he was welcome, as he was
a friend of their lord; but, that for me, I had become his slave, as
the Franks were their enemies. I thought this a strange reception. But
Marco answered for me, and would not allow me to say a word, except to
recommend myself to them. This was on the 1st of May, 1476. I returned to
my little chamber in such dread, that I scarcely knew where I was; and my
perils increased every day, not only in consequence of the Comerchieri,
who gave out that I had a quantity of jewels, but from having some
trifling things which we had brought from Derbent and intended exchanging
for horses; but everything was taken from us. I was afterwards told
by Marco that they intended selling them in the bazaar; but that, by
interceding with some merchants who were going to Muscovy, he had, with
much trouble and risk, and after a delay of several days, arranged that I
should pay the sum of two thousand alermi to the lord. This sum did not
include what was extorted by others. As I had not a soldo, the money was
advanced on very usurious terms by Russian and Tartar merchants who were
going to Muscovy, on security given by Marco. Although our difficulty
with the lord might be said to have been overcome by this arrangement,
the dog of a Comerchier used to come to our house, when Marco was not at
home, and, after knocking down my door, would threaten, in his cursed
voice, to have me impaled, saying that I had jewels in quantities. I
was, therefore, obliged to appease him as best I could. Many and many a
time, also, Tartars, drunk with a beverage they make with apples, used to
come and shout that they would have the Franks, who had not the hearts of
men. We were terrified into purchasing their silence also. We remained
at Citracan from the first of May to the 10th of August, the Feast of
St. Lawrence. Citracan belongs to three sons of a brother of the present
Emperor of those Tartars who inhabit the plains of Circassia and the
country lying in the direction of Tana. In the heat of the summer they
go towards the confines of Russia in search of fresh pasturage. These
three brothers remain in Citracan a few months in the winter, but in the
summer do like the rest. Citracan is a small town situated on the Volga,
and surrounded by a low wall. The few houses it contains are built of
bricks; but it is evident that it possessed several edifices at no very
distant period. Citracan is said to have been, in ancient times, a place
of considerable trade, the spices which came to Venice by way of Tana
having passed through it; and, from what I could understand, they were
sent direct from Citracan to Tana, a distance of only eight days’ journey.
On the 10th of August, 1476, the Feast of St. Lawrence, as we have said,
we left Citracan, as I shall hereafter relate. The Lord of Citracan,
named Casimi Can, sends an ambassador to Russia every year to the Duke
of Muscovy (more for the sake of obtaining presents than anything else),
who is accompanied by a great many Tartar merchants who form a caravan
and take with them silk manufactured in Gesdi and fustian stuffs to
exchange for furs, saddles, swords, bridles, and other things which
they require. And, as the country between Citracan and Muscovy is a
continual desert, everyone is obliged to carry provisions. The Tartars,
however, care little to do so, as they always drive a great number of
horses with them, some of which they kill every day for food. They
live, indeed, continually on meat and milk, without other food, no one
being even acquainted with bread, unless it be some merchant who has
visited Russia. We, however, were obliged to provide ourselves as well
as we could. We took a little rice with which a mixture is made with
milk dried in the sun, and called thur, which becomes very hard, tastes
rather sour, and is said to be very nourishing. We also had onions and
garlic, besides which I obtained with much trouble a quart of biscuits
made of very good wheaten flour, and a salted sheep’s tail. Our way was
between two tributaries of the Volga; but, as the said emperor was at war
with Casimi Can, his nephew—who pretended that he was the true emperor,
his father having been the Emperor of the _Lordo_, and in possession of
the territory—it was unanimously resolved that the whole caravan should
cross over to the other bank of the river and proceed as far as a narrow
pass between the Tanais and the Volga, about five days’ journey distant,
as beyond that point it might be considered out of danger. Everyone,
therefore, placed his goods and provisions on certain boats which are
used in those parts, that they might be carried over the river. Marco
also embarked his things and wished me to embark the few provisions
I had with me. He advised me also to send on the Priest Stefano and
Zuane Ungharetto, my attendant, and remain with him myself, as he had
arranged with the ambassador, whose name was Anchioli, that he should
come for me about midday; and that we should advance to where the boats
had gone, which might be about twelve miles higher up the river. When
the time came, he made me mount on horseback with the said ambassador
and my interpreter; and with great fear, and riding as low as I could,
we arrived at the pass, at about an hour before sunset. As I was about
to cross the stream, as darkness was coming on, to join our people,
Marco called to me in such a furious tone that I certainly thought my
last hour had come. He made me mount with my interpreter and a Russian
woman, together with a Tartar, whose aspect was as forbidding as could
well be imagined. All he said was, “Ride, ride fast”. As I could not do
otherwise, I obeyed, and followed the Tartar all that night and until
midday the next day, nor would he allow me to dismount for a moment.
Having asked him several times, through my interpreter, where he was
taking me to, he at length replied that Marco’s reason for sending me
forward was, that the Khan was going to have the boats searched, and he
feared that, if I were discovered, I should be detained. This was on
the 13th of August, about midday. Having come to the river, the Tartar
tried to find a boat wherewith to cross over to a little island, where
there were some cattle belonging to the ambassador Anchioli. Not finding
one, he collected some branches, which he bound together as well as he
could; and, after placing the saddles upon them, tied them with a rope
to the tail of a horse, which he drove to the island, a distance, I
should think, of two good bowshots. He then returned and took the Russian
woman, whom he passed over in the same way. My interpreter preferred
to swim over, which he did with some peril. He then came over for me,
and, as I saw how great the danger was, I took off my shirt and hose,
although, in any case, this would have availed me little; and by the help
of our Lord, although in great danger, I was carried over. The Tartar
then returned again, and brought over the horses, which we mounted, and
proceeded to his lodging,—a skin covering,—which I got under. This was
the third day that I had not eaten, and when he gave me a little sour
milk I received it with the greatest thanks, and thought it very good.
Shortly afterwards, there came a number of Tartars, who were on the
island minding their cattle. They looked at me and appeared to wonder
much, amongst themselves, as to how I had come there, as no Christian
had ever been there before. I said nothing, but feigned to be as ill
as possible. The Tartar guide appeared to favour me greatly, and no
one, I believe, dared to speak, from respect to the ambassador, who was
a great man. On the 14th, which was the eve of Our Lady’s day, a lamb
was killed in my honour, which was partly roasted and partly boiled,
but no trouble whatever was taken to wash the flesh, as they say that
washing takes all the flavour away; nor do they scum it with anything but
a twig. Some of this meat and some sour milk was then served up; and,
although it was the eve of Our Lady (of whom I craved forgiveness, as
I could hold out no longer), we all began eating together. Mare’s milk
was also brought, which they hold in great esteem, and of which they
wished me to drink, as they say it gives great strength to man; but,
as it stank most horribly, I refused to taste it, which gave them some
offence. I remained here until the 16th, when Marco arrived with the
caravan, and sent a Tartar and one of his Russians to fetch me. I was
then taken over the river in a boat to the place where the caravan was.
The Priest Stephano and Zuanne Ungaretto, who had despaired of seeing
me again, rejoiced greatly when I appeared, and returned thanks to God.
Marco had provided as many horses as I might require. We remained the
whole of the day of the 17th, and then started with the caravan to cross
the desert on our way to Muscovy. The ambassador took the command of the
whole company, which, with Russians and Tartars, might have amounted to
about three hundred persons. There were, besides, more than two hundred
horses led for food and for sale in Russia. We certainly marched in good
order, keeping by the side of the river, sleeping at night and resting
at midday. We proceeded thus for fifteen days, during which time they
no longer appeared apprehensive of the Emperor of the Lordo, as they
were before reaching the narrow pass. This Lordo is governed by an
emperor, whose name I do not remember, who rules over all the Tartars
in those parts. These Tartars, as I have said, are constantly wandering
in search of fresh pasturage and water, and live entirely on milk and
meat. They have, I believe, the most beautiful oxen, cows, and sheep in
the world, the meat being of good flavour on account of the excellence of
the pastures. Mare’s milk, however, is held in great estimation. Their
country consists of beautiful and extensive plains, where not a mountain
is to be seen. I did not visit this _Lordo_ myself, but was desirous
of obtaining what information I could respecting it and its numerical
strength. It is the general opinion that, although it contains altogether
a great many people, a thousand men armed with sword and bow could
scarcely be mustered in it, all the rest being women and children in
considerable numbers, or men shoeless and without arms of any kind. They
are accounted valiant, as they plunder both Circassians and Russians.
Their horses are no better than wild; they are timid, and it is not the
custom to shoe them. These Tartars themselves are generally looked upon
as brutes. As has been said, they dwell between the rivers Tanai and
Volga. But there is said to be another tribe of Tartars living beyond
the Volga, in an east-north-easterly direction, who are supposed to be
very numerous. They wear long hair reaching to their waists, and are
called wild Tartars. They wander in search of pasturage and water like
the others; and, in the winter, when there is much cold and ice, they
are said to come as far as Citracan; nor do they commit any damage in
the town, unless it be some paltry theft of meat. When we had travelled
fifteen days continually by the river-side, we came to a little wood
where the Tartars and the Russians began cutting timbers, which they
bound together, with cords brought for the purpose, and made, I should
think, upwards of forty rafts. While these were being prepared we found
a miserable boat, on which Marco ordered his things to be carried across
the stream. He then sent it back for me, requesting me to bring over
our saddles and what provisions we had, in order that I might guard his
things on the side of the river, while Dimitri, the Turciman, and the
Hungarian, remained behind to guard the horses. I embarked, then, on this
boat, together with Stephano and two Russians, who guided the boat with
poles of wood, and we crossed to the opposite bank of the river, which I
should consider to be more than a mile across, although our course was
considerably longer, both on account of the strong current which carried
us down and the leaking of the boat. Stephano and I, however, sat in the
water and baled it out as well as we could, and after great fatigue and
extreme peril we at length, by God’s help, reached the opposite bank
in safety. When the boat was unloaded the Russians wanted to return in
her, but this was impossible, as she was too much broken; they were,
therefore, obliged to remain, and were six in all. The next morning the
whole caravan was to have crossed, but was prevented by a high wind,
which arose from the north and continued blowing for two days. As I had
taken everything with me, my people who were guarding the horses were,
during this time, without either food or clothing, so that my anxiety
on their account may well be imagined. I now thought that I would look
into the state of our provisions, which I was alarmed to find anything
but satisfactory. I, therefore, though late, took charge of them myself,
and resolved to cook only a dishful of rice for dinner and the same for
supper, giving with each ration sometimes onions, and sometimes garlic,
with a little dry sour milk, and occasionally some of the biscuits. We
used all to sit round our dish of rice, each eating his proper allowance,
nor did I take a greater share than the rest. During the two days we
remained at this place, we found some wild apples, which we boiled and
ate to economise our provisions. After the two days were passed the whole
caravan with the baggage crossed over the river by means of the rafts,
each raft being towed by six or seven horses, with as many Tartars to
guide them, the rafts being tied with ropes to the horses’ tails. The
remainder of the horses were made to swim across without their harness,
that the whole caravan might pass over at the same time. It was certainly
a goodly sight, and they crossed quickly, though the passage was full of
peril. When all had crossed over and taken a little rest, the baggage was
packed, and we set out, leaving the river, than which, in my judgment,
there can be few greater, as it appears to be more than two miles across,
very deep, and with high banks.