KNITTING AND WEAVING
Compared with the weaving branch of textiles the knitting industry has
several outstanding advantages which are now being widely recognized. In
weaving it is necessary to have a considerable amount of tackle and
supplementary attachments if the fancy pattern trade is to be conducted.
The knitted texture is essentially a one-sided composition, but when
effects such as lace work, tuck stitches, or coloured styles are
introduced these are notable on account of their effectiveness. For any
of the machines used in the fancy departments of the knitting trade such
as the Jacquard flat knitter, the lace or pearl machines, designs are in
every case extremely effective, for minor alterations of the patterning
devices produce a result which is at once distinctive and fancy elements
show almost their full quota on the face. In the case of woven fabrics
the loom and a complicated set of cards and shafts are needed to produce
a figure of the most moderate dimensions. Colours in the ordinary twills
only show about 50 per cent. of their effectiveness and the surface of
the texture remains for the most part uniform. The producer of woven
goods has an advantage in that he can make most forms of texture on one
loom which he can alter in setting and tackle so as to give any degree
of fineness or variety of design. The maker of knitted goods requires a
series of entirely different machines in order to produce a full range
of patterns and individual machines show but small variation in texture
and weight. For any particular type of machine he requires to instal a
series varying in the sett or gauge of the needles if a representative
range of textures suitable for the changing seasons has to be devised.
The average maker of knitted goods has to produce garments ready for the
wearer, which renders his task more complicated, for he has to produce
garments in full ranges of size and shape, thus combining the functions
of fabric and garment producer. This has the advantage of enabling him
to establish a more direct relationship with the wearer of his garments
and most firms are adopting the policy of going direct to the retail,
one which has had a most stimulating effect on the trade. This personal
contact with the shopkeeper who places the goods in the hands of the
wearer brings the manufacturer into close contact with the trend of
public demand.
_Hand Knitting._—The war period witnessed a remarkable revival of hand
knitting which arose from a desire to send comforts to soldier
relatives, and the enormous quantities of articles produced in this way
greatly helped our men to withstand the rigorous conditions of active
service in winter. The usual articles were scarves, gloves, knitted
helmets, but, above all, thick warm socks. Knitting was performed on all
occasions and it proved a great comfort to many who had relatives in
dangerous situations. Knitting acts as a soothing tonic, and there is
the added satisfaction of producing something of direct usefulness
whilst the skilful hand knitter may impart touches of elegance and
distinction not possible by machine. If hand knitting is to be skilfully
performed it is necessary to give attention to the size of the knitting
pins and that of the yarn in relation. The gauges of knitting pins or
needles are recognized in this country by a series of numbers quoted by
all instruction books dealing with the subject, Walker's bell-shaped
knitting gauge being largely used by those who make hand knitting an
occupation of leisure. This is cut bell-shaped in bright polished metal,
the various numbers corresponding to the size of the openings in the
gauge. The full range of gauges runs from 1 to 24 and the needles are
named after these according as they fit the various apertures. The
coarsest knitting-needle in general use is termed 1 and is of such a
thickness that it will pass through the space marked 1; knitting-needle
number 2 will exactly fit opening number 2 and so on till gauge 5 is
reached. The apertures gradually decrease in size till the smallest
recognized hand knitting-needle is termed 24 gauge. Thickness of needle
must correspond to the size of yarn or, in other words, the yarn must
suit the thickness of needle. It is the needle which determines the
interspaces in the fabric, for a certain proportion must be allowed if
the fabric is to possess the required elasticity and stretch. This
property is essential to good wearing service, for if loops are stiff
and stodgy in construction, due to over-tight knitting or meagre
allowance of space, the fabric will not yield to the movements which
occur in wear and will more rapidly give way under strain. The thicker
the yarn the larger the space required and _vice versâ_, so that the
needle determines the space which is to be allowed for any particular
set of loops and should bear a definite relation to the thickness of
yarn.
_The Knitting Process._—The elementary operation of knitting by hand may
be followed by referring to Figs. 4 and 5, which illustrate the stages
and show the method in which the loops hang on the hand knitting pins.
In this case flat work is being produced, the needle A being shown with
the row of loops upon it whilst the needle B is being used to form a new
row. The thread N is seen to continue from the loops already made and
the pin B is being pushed through the end loop M so that it may catch a
piece of the thread N and form a new loop similar to M. This is in the
act of completion in Fig. 5 where a new piece of thread N has been drawn
through and the old loop M is about to be discharged from needle A, this
being replaced by a new loop N now hanging on needle B. This operation
is continued stitch by stitch until all the loops spread on needle A are
replaced by new loops transferred to needle B. When this is complete
needle A is stripped of its stitches, and then is used to re-transfer
the stitches from B back again to itself. By this operation it will be
seen that the knitting operation as performed by hand on two pins is an
alternate process; you transfer stitches from a needle working from
right to left as in Fig. 4, and at the next course you work from left to
right transferring the stitches back again. In this we do not obtain
perfectly plain fabric but what is known as the garter pattern or one
and one pearl-stitch. If it is desired to make plain work on two hand
pins, the worker in turning the direction of knitting must push the
needle into the old stitch in the reverse direction so as to effect a
cast-off same as in the previous course. For the making of hose and
half-hose on hand knitting-needles at least three pins are necessary to
enable us to knit in circular form so as to produce the article to fit
the foot. A more convenient method of knitting in a circle is to use
four pins with the idle stitches evenly distributed over three of these
pins and using the fourth to transfer in the manner already described.
In this way each needle in turn is released and is used as the operating
pin to form and transfer the loops in knitting. Even if the pins are
correct in gauge in relation to the size of the yarn it is easy to make
defective material or texture should the loops not be worked at a proper
tension. Slack knitters and tight knitters are known according as they
work with the thread slack or tight; in this it is well to strike the
happy medium, too slack tension makes working to correct size very
difficult, whilst too tight work reduces the speed of knitting and the
wearing qualities of the article. Correct tension is generally in the
region of that which gives reasonable freedom of motion to the knitter.
_Branches of the Knitting Industry._—_The Cut-up Trade._—The
manufacturer of knitted goods has not only to produce the fabric but in
most cases completes the garments ready for wear and has thus to act as
manufacturer and tailor combined. By the cut-up trade is meant that
branch where the garments are made by cutting the component pieces from
a roll or web of cloth similar to the manner of a tailor of outer
garments. This branch is usually associated with the cheaper grades of
the knitted industry because the cutting can be done in standard sizes,
many plies at one and the same time using automatic cutting devices such
as the circular electric machine. Similarly the making-up and trimming
of the garments is performed on the principle of mass production where
output is based on a large number of articles being produced in exactly
the same manner and to a standard type. In recent years the relative
advantages of the cut method of manufacture as compared with other
systems have undergone some modification. In the first place we have the
waste which is a heavy item in the cut branch, for no matter how
skilfully the pieces may be carved from the plies of fabric there is
always a considerable number of waste pieces at corners, etc., which it
is not possible to utilize. The problem of waste has become more serious
since materials have risen so much in value and has tended to augment
the price of such goods on the market. On the other hand, one of the
great objections to the cut method of manufacture lies in the kind of
seam or join used to piece the various sections together because owing
to the frayed edges of severed loops, the seamer has to secure a hold
several stitches from each edge and this gives rise to a bulky portion
at the join which in underwear particularly proved a serious obstacle to
comfort. The activities of machine makers have, however, in recent years
been concentrated on devising methods of seaming which will minimize
these deficiencies, and there are now several machines such as the
flat-lock, which in place of taking the stitches so far from each edge
introduce a number of threads to form a kind of bridge of texture of
their own with the edge loops. This makes a secure join and at the same
time gives a seam of little more than normal bulk.
_The Full-Fashioned Trade._—As the term indicates, this section applies
to articles made to the shape of the body these pieces being complete
units with perfect selvedges which are afterwards united to form a
garment where the edges are joined with comparatively little bulk of
seam. The best examples of the full-fashioned trade are the garments
produced on the Cotton's Patent Rotary frame which is built to work as
many as twelve full width articles at the same time. This capacity of
multi-production proves one of the strong points of the fashioned trade
because the articles being worked identically effects a considerable
reduction on the cost of making. Also the seam or join is made with
selvedge loops which are perfect in formation so that the worker can use
the end two loops as supports for the seaming thread which is of the
same material as the garment and is thus inconspicuous and at the same
time gives the correct elasticity. With the cut-up seam as at present
practised clean-surfaced yarns have to be employed to the number of
eight or more, and these are usually in white cotton which on a coloured
garment at once proclaims its origin. In seaming fashioned goods each
selvedge loop is joined to a corresponding stitch on the other side by
the method termed "point-to-point" seaming, and under present conditions
the slowness of this method and its greater cost has led many
manufacturers of full-fashioned to reconsider seriously their position.
The cup seamer can in many cases give a three-fold production and this
is now being employed with success in such branches as the
fashioned-hose trade. For high-class underwear, however, the
point-to-point system still holds its own as being the best adapted for
the work, and efforts are being made to have this type of machine
accelerated to give increased production.
In the novelty trade such as that of knitted coats the articles are so
varied in style and shape that they have to be fashioned singly on a
hand machine, and it is being recognized that the full-fashioned system
is too expensive if the firm is to do trade on a large scale. To
increase production in such goods, therefore, the articles are often cut
from knitted web separately to the style and shape desired and seamed on
one or other of the mechanisms now being improved to give a suitable
join for such goods. The distinct difference lies in the method of
cutting which is individualistic so that full expression can be given to
shape and modifications of fashion. To work the full-fashioned branch of
the hosiery trade requires an enormous outlay for equipment, as these
multi-garment machines run to a high figure and have to be installed in
a series of gauges so as to present a sufficiently large assortment of
textures to the market. For the cut-up trade, on the other hand, we can
obtain a large quantity of fabric from a few circular frames; what
remains is to cut the material to shape and trim and finish the
garments.
_The Seamless Branch._—This embraces another very important class of
knitted fabrics which are produced for the most part without joins or
seams and ready to fit the wearer. As most garments are circular in form
this requires a plant of circular frames, or the flat knitter may be
adapted for the making of circular fabric. The best example of this
section is that of the hose and half-hose, or stockings and socks, which
are required circular in form. Also large quantities of seamless gloves
are placed on the market each season, these being worked with the
fingers in the form of small circular bags to accommodate the fingers.
Seamless fabric for hose and half-hose is of special value because any
irregularities of texture instantly make themselves uncomfortably
evident in footwear. The seamless hose trade is done on machines of
small diameter with the needles arranged in circular form, and where
suitable provision is made for the addition of pockets to accommodate
the heel and toes. From machines of larger diameter are made garments
such as nightdresses where the fabric is produced in the form of a large
circular sack, a length of which is taken to form the body whilst
similar circular pieces are produced on machines of smaller diameter for
the sleeves. The practice of making garments of the sweater or "Jumper"
class on circular frames is on the increase especially since machine
types have been evolved which can make rib, plain, pearl and striped
fabrics on one and the same machine with a suitable arrangement for
narrowing. It stands to reason, however, that this method of making body
garments does not allow of great accuracy of fit and that the greatest
scope lies in garments which by their nature are of a loosely fitting
description. At the same time the advent of the rib stitch in such
machines enables the fabric to be given a latent amount of elasticity
which can be utilized to fit the form of a slender person, whilst it can
be stretched to accommodate an individual of more portly build.