The eastern half of Afghanistan is generally cold and rugged

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AFGHANISTAN AND THE ANGLO-RUSSIAN DISPUTE

by THEO. F. RODENBOUGH

Bvt. Brigadier General, U.S.A

AN ACCOUNT OF RUSSIA'S ADVANCE TOWARD INDIA, BASED UPON THE

REPORTS AND EXPERIENCES OF RUSSIAN, GERMAN, AND BRITISH

OFFICERS AND TRAVELLERS; WITH A DESCRIPTION OF

AFGHANISTAN AND OF THE MILITARY RESOURCES

OF THE POWERS CONCERNED

[Illustration: Afghanistan: England versus Russia]

[Illustration: The Ruler of Afghanistan, Abdurrahman Khan,

Ameer of Kabul]

* * * * *

WITH THREE MAPS AND OTHER ILLUSTRATIONS

* * * * *

CONTENTS.

I.

THROUGH THE GATES OF ASIA

II.

ON THE THRESHOLD OF INDIA

III.

THE BRITISH FORCES AND ROUTES

IV.

THE RUSSIAN FORCES AND APPROACHES

V.

REVIEW OF THE MILITARY SITUATION

LIST OF AUTHORITIES

INDEX

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

_MAPS_.

Afghanistan and the Surrounding Territories (Drawn for this Work and

Corrected by the Latest Military Surveys--end of vol.)

The Asiatic Territories Absorbed by Russia During the Past Two

Centuries, with the Dates of the Various Annexations

The Russian Lines of Advance from their Base of Supplies

_CUTS_.

Abdurrahman Khan, Ameer of Kabul (Frontispiece)

Mahaz Khan (A Tajik), Khan of Pest Bolak

Jehandad (Lohanir), from Ghazni

Wullie Mohammed, a Dahzungi Hazara

Pozai Khan, a Shinwarri (Musician)

Khan Baz, a Khumbhur Khel Afreedi

Tooro Baz, a Kookie Khel Afreedi

Zool Kuddar, an Adam Khel Afreedi

Mousa, a Kizilbash, Born in Peshawur

The City of Kandahar, Afghanistan

Castle of Zohak, First March from Bamian, Irak Road to Kabul

An Afghan Post-Chaise; Going to the Front

Gate of the Bazaar at Kabul

Major-General, Sir F. S. Roberts, V.C., K.C.B.

Khelat-i-Ghilzi, between Kandahar and Ghazni

Elephant with Artillery; on the Road to Ali Musjid

Detail of Elephant Saddle

Noah's Valley, Kunar River

Watch Tower in the Khaiber Pass

Fort of Ali Musjid, from the Heights above Lala Cheena, in the

Khaiber Pass

Fort of Dakka, on the Kabul River

The Ishbola Tepe, Khaiber Pass

Entrance to the Bolan Pass, from Dadur

Entrance to the Khojak Pass, from Pishin, on the Road to Kandahar

The Order of March in Central Asia

Gorge in the Tirband-i-Turkestan, through which the Murghab flows

Jelalabad, from Piper's Hill

[Illustration: MAP Showing the Advances of RUSSIA towards INDIA

1734-1884.]

AFGHANISTAN

AND THE

ANGLO-RUSSIAN DISPUTE

I.

THROUGH THE GATES OF ASIA.

In universal history there is no more interesting subject for the

consideration of the political student than the record of Russian

progress through Central Asia.

In one sense this advance is a practical reestablishment or

extension of the influence of the Aryan race in countries long

dominated by peoples of Turki or Mongolian origin; in another

sense it has resulted in a transition from the barbarism or rude

forms of Asiatic life to the enlightenment and higher moral

development of a European age. In a religious sense it embodies a

crusade against Oriental fanaticism; and it is a curious feature of

the Anglo-Russian dispute, that upon a question of temporal gain,

the greatest Christian nation finds itself allied with the followers

of Buddha and Mahomet against Russia under the Banner of the Cross.

The descendants of the great Peter have opened up in Central Asia a

new region which, if as yet it has not been "made to blossom as the

rose," has nevertheless profited by the introduction of law, order,

and a certain amount of industrial prosperity.

Russia commenced her relations with Central Asia as early as the

sixteenth century. Not only through embassies sent, but by military

expeditions; these, however, at that time were private ventures by

roving Cossacks and other inhabitants of Southern Russia. Authorized

government expeditions commenced with Peter the Great, who in

1716-17 sent two exploring parties into the Central Asian

deserts--Bekovitch to Khiva, and Likhareff to the Black Irtish. These

expeditions were undertaken in search of gold, supposed to exist in

those regions, but failed in their object; the detachment under

Bekovitch being entirely destroyed after reaching Khiva. Peter

next turned his attention to the country bordering upon the

southern shores of the Caspian Sea; taking advantage of Persian

embarrassments, with the consent of the Shah and of the Sultan he

acquired, in 1722-3, the provinces of Gilan, Mazanderan, and

Asterabad; but the great expense of maintaining a large garrison so

remote from Russia, and the unhealthiness of the locality, induced

the Russian Government, in 1732, to restore the districts to Persia.

In the same year Abul-Khair, the Khan of the Little Kirghiz Horde,

voluntarily submitted to Russia. Twenty years later a small strip of

the kingdom of Djungaria, on the Irtish, was absorbed, and toward

the commencement of the reign of Catharine II, Russian authority

was asserted and maintained over the broad tract from the Altai to

the Caspian. This occupation was limited to a line of outposts along

the Ural, the Irtish, and in the intervening district. During

Catharine's reign the frontier nomads became reduced in numbers, by

the departure from the steppe between the Ural and Volga of the

Calmucks, who fled into Djungaria, and were nearly destroyed on the

road, by the Kirghiz.

The connection between Russia and Central Asia at this time assumed

another character, that of complete tranquillity, in consequence of

the development of trade through Orenburg and to some extent through

Troitsk and Petropaulovsk. The lines along the Ural and Irtish

gradually acquired strength; the robber-raids into European Russia

and Western Siberia almost entirely ceasing. The allegiance of the

Kirghiz of the Little and Central Hordes was expressed in the fact

that their Khans were always selected under Russian influence and

from time to time appeared at St. Petersburg to render homage. With

the Central Asian khanates there was no connection except that of

trade, but as regarded the Turcomans, who, it is said, had

frequently asked for Russian protection, intercourse was

discouraged, as they could not be trusted "within the lines," being

simply bandits.

The Emperor Paul imagined that the steppes offered a good road to

Southern Asia, and desiring to expel the English from India, in the

year 1800 he despatched a large number of Don Cossacks, under

Orloff, through the districts of the Little Horde. At the time a

treaty was concluded with Napoleon, then First Consul, by virtue of

which a combined Russo-French army was to disembark at Asterabad and

march from thence into India by way of Khorassan and Afghanistan.

The death of the Emperor of Russia put an end to this plan.

During the reign of Alexander I, Central Asia was suffered to rest,

and even the Chinese made raids into Russian territory without

interruption. In the third decade of the present century, however,

several advanced military settlements of Cossacks were founded.

"Thus," says M. Veniukoff, "was inaugurated the policy which

afterward guided us in the steppe, the foundation of advanced

settlements and towns (at first forts, afterwards _stanitsas_

[Footnote: Cossack settlements.]) until the most advanced of them

touches some natural barrier."

About 1840, it was discovered that the system of military

colonization was more effectual in preserving order in the Orenburg

district than by flying detachments sent, as occasion required, from

Southern Russia; and in 1845-6 the Orenburg and Ural (or Targai and

Irgiz) forts were established. In 1846 the Great Kirghiz Horde

acknowledged its subjection to Russia on the farther side of the

Balkash, while at the same time a fort was constructed on the lower

Yaxartes.

In 1847 the encroachments of Russia in Central Asia had brought her

upon the borders of the important khanates of Khiva and Khokand,

and, like some huge boa-constrictor, she prepared to swallow them.

In 1852 the inevitable military expedition was followed by the

customary permanent post. Another row of forts was planted on the

Lower Yaxartes, and in 1854 far to the eastward, in the midst of the

Great Horde, was built Fort Vernoye--the foundation of a new line,

more or less contiguous to natural boundaries (mountains and

rivers), but not a close line. Between Perovsky and Vernoye there

were upwards of four hundred and fifty miles of desert open to the

incursions of brigands, and between the Aral and Caspian seas there

was a gap, two hundred miles in width, favorable for raids into the

Orenburg Steppe from the side of Khiva. Finally, under the pretext

of closing this gap, a general convergent movement of the Siberian

and Orenburg forces commenced, culminating under General Tchernayeff

in the capture of Aulieata and Chemkent in 1864, and of Tashkent in

1865.

Here, M. Veniukoff says: "The Government intended to halt in its

conquests, and, limiting itself to forming a closed line on the

south of the Kirghiz steppes, left it to the sedentary inhabitants

of Tashkent to form a separate khanate from the Khokand so hostile

to us." And this historian tells us that the Tashkendees declined

the honor of becoming the Czar's policemen in this way, evidently

foreseeing the end, and, to cut the matter short, chose the Russian

general, Tchernayeff, as their Khan. The few Central Asian rulers

whose necks had so far escaped the Muscovite heel, made an

ineffectual resistance, and in 1866 Hodjeni and Jizakh were duly

"annexed," thus separating Bokhara and Khokand.

Here we may glance at the method by which Russia took firmer root on

the shores of the Caspian, and established a commercial link with

the Khivan region. In 1869 a military post and seaport was planted

at Krasnovodsk, on that point of the east shore of the Caspian,

which presents the greatest facilities for shipping, and as a base

of operations against the Turcomans, who were at that time very

troublesome. Several military expeditions set out from this point,

and every year detachments of troops were despatched to keep the

roads open toward Khiva, the Kepet Dagh, or the banks of the Attrek.

Within five years (1870-'75) the nomads living within the routes

named had become "good Turcomans," carried the Czar's mails to

Khiva, and furnished the Krasnovodsk-Khivan caravans with camels and

drivers. But the colonization scheme on the lower Caspian had once

more brought the Russians to the Persian boundary. In 1869 the Shah

had been rather officiously assured that Russia would not think of

going below the line of the Attrek; yet, as Colonel Veniukoff shows,

she now regrets having committed herself, and urges "geographical

ignorance" of the locality when the assurance was given, and the

fact that part of her restless subjects, on the Attrek, pass eight

months of the year in Russian territory and four in "so-called"

Persia; it is therefore not difficult to imagine the probable change

on the map of that quarter.

The march continued toward Khiva, and after the usual

iron-hand-in-velvet-glove introduction, General Kaufmann in 1873

pounced upon that important khanate, and thus added another to the

jewels of the Empire. Nominally, Khiva is independent, but nevertheless

collects and pays to Russia a considerable contribution annually.

In 1868 Russia seized Samarcand, and established over the khanate of

Bokhara a similar supervision to that in Khiva. As the distinguished

Russian already quoted remarks: "The programme of the political

existence of Bokhara as a separate sovereignty was accorded to her

by us in the shape of two treaties, in 1868 and 1873, which defined

her subordinate relation to Russia. But no one looks at these acts

as the treaties of an equal with an equal. They are instructions in

a polite form, or programmes given by the civilized conqueror to the

conquered barbarians, and the execution of which is guaranteed by

the immediate presence of a military force."

The district of Khokand, whose ruler, Khudoyar Khan, submitted

himself to Russia in 1867, was for a number of years nominally

independent, but becoming disturbed by domestic dissensions, was

ultimately annexed under the name of the Fergana Province.

To this point we have followed Colonel Veniukoff's account of the

Russian advance. It will doubtless interest the reader to continue

the narrative from an English view, exceptionally accurate and

dispassionate in its nature.

In a lecture before the Royal United Service Institution in London,

May 16, 1884, Lieut.-General Sir Edward Hamley, of the British Army,

discussed the Central Asian question before an audience comprising

such Indian experts as Sir Henry Rawlinson, Lord Napier of Magdala,

and Mr. Charles Marvin, and many distinguished officers, including

Lord Chelmsford, Sir F. Haines, and Colonel Malleson. Among other

things, General Hamley said:

"Probably England has never been quite free, during the present

century, from some degree of anxiety caused by the steady, gradual

approaches of Russia through Central Asia toward India. It was seen

that where her foot was planted it never went back. It was seen that

with forces comparatively small she never failed to effect any

conquest she was bent on, and that the conquest, once effected, was

final. This security in possession was owing in great measure to the

fact that the governments she displaced were bad governments, and

that she substituted one far better in itself and of a simplicity

which was well adapted to the people with whom she was dealing. She

aimed mainly at three things--the establishment of order and of

confidence and the obtaining of some return for her own heavy

expenses. From the establishment of order and of confidence sprang a

prosperity which enabled her to obtain a certain revenue, though

entirely inadequate to her expenditure. Thus we beheld her pressing

solidly on, and we knew not where she might stop. Pretexts, such as

it was difficult to find a flaw in, were never wanting on which to

ground a fresh absorption of territory. And seeing behind this

advance a vast country--almost a continent--which was not merely a

great Asiatic Power, but a great European State, under autocratic,

irresponsible rule, with interests touching ours at many points, it

is not to be wondered at that we watched with anxiety her progress

as she bore steadily down toward our Indian frontier."

General Hamley says that England became particularly suspicious of

Russia in 1867 when she absorbed Turkestan, and this feeling was

intensified in 1878, while the Treaty of Berlin was still pending.

General Kaufmann assembled a small army of about 12,000 men and

thirty-two guns on the frontier of Bokhara, and although upon the

signing of the treaty all threatening movements ceased, yet the

British commander then operating in Afghanistan knew that Kaufmann

had proposed to march in the direction of Kabul, and menace the

British frontier.

It has ever been the practice of Russia, in her schemes of

aggrandizement, to combine her diplomatic with her military

machinery; but, unlike other nations, the ambassador has generally

been subordinate to the general.

At the time that General Kaufmann sheathed his sword under the

influence of the Treaty of Berlin, in 1878, there remained another

representative of Russia--General Stolietoff--who had been quietly

negotiating with the Ameer of Afghanistan, Shere Ali, the terms of a

"Russian treaty," whose characteristics have already been described.

Hearing of this, the English Ambassador at St. Petersburg questioned

the Russian Minister, who answered him "that no mission had been,

nor was intended to be, sent to Kabul, either by the Imperial

Government or by General Kaufmann." This denial was given on July

3d, the day after Stolietoff and his mission had started from

Samarcand. After the envoy's arrival at Kabul, another remonstrance

met with the reply that the mission was "of a professional nature

and one of simple courtesy," and was not, therefore, inconsistent

with the pacific assurances already given. The real nature of this

mission became known from papers found by General Roberts at Kabul

in 1879. These showed that Shere Ali had been invited to form a

close alliance with the Russian Government. General Kaufmann had

advised Shere Ali to try and stir up disaffection among the Queen's

Indian subjects, promising to aid him, eventually, with troops.

Finding that this scheme was impracticable at the moment, Russia

dropped the Ameer, who fled from the scene of his misfortunes, and

died soon after.

For the moment England breathed more freely. There were still great

natural obstacles between the empires of Russia and of India. Not

only the friendly state of Afghanistan, but on its northwestern

border the neutral territory of Merv, hitherto an independent

province, and inhabited by warlike tribes of Turcomans difficult to

reach through their deserts and likely to harass a Russian advance

to Herat to an embarrassing extent. It was seen that the possession

of this territory would at once free Russia from much difficulty in

case of an advance and give her the means of threatening Herat as

well as Kabul from her base in Turkestan, and even to some extent to

carry forward that base beyond the Oxus.

On the part of Russia, the success of General Skobeleff in capturing

the fortified position of Geok Tepe, January 24, 1880, marked the

beginning of negotiations with the Turcomans for the acquisition of

Merv. For a long while these were unsuccessful, but early in 1884 it

was cabled to London, that "The Queen of the World" had accepted the

White Czar as her future liege lord.

The immediate cause of this event was the effect produced upon the

minds of the Turcoman deputation to Moscow by the spectacle of the

Czar's coronation. The impression created by the gorgeous ceremonial

was heightened by the presence of so many Asiatic chiefs and

kinglets at the ancient and historic capital of Russia. The tales

they brought back were well calculated to influence the minds of a

wild and primitive people; and when the Khan of Khiva proffered his

services for the settlement of their relations with Russia, that

section of the Tekke tribe in favor of peace accepted them. The

chiefs tendered their formal submission to the Czar, and promised to

allow Russian merchants to reside among them, and pledged themselves

to maintain the security of the routes from the Oxus to the Tejend;

also accepting the responsibilities of Russian subjects by rendering

tribute either in money or by military service. To all intents and

purposes it is equivalent to the establishment of a Russian garrison

in Merv.

The thorough way in which Russia seeks to bind her Asiatic subjects

is shown in the fact that in 1884, at the request of the Khan of

Khiva, a Russian tutor was selected to instruct his children.

Soon after it was reported that the Russians had established

themselves at Sarakhs on the direct road to Herat and just over the

Persian boundary of Afghanistan. These later movements again aroused

the distrust of England, and a joint commission of Russian and

English officials was appointed early in the year 1885.

While the English members of the commission under Sir Peter Lumsden

were awaiting the convenience of their foreign colleagues, the

presence of Russian troops was reported on the disputed territory in

the vicinity of Herat.

This action alarmed the Afghans, and a collision seemed imminent.

The English Government considered M. de Giers' explanation of this

encroachment unsatisfactory. Pending an adjustment of the new

complication both nations prepared for the worst.

Here we will leave the subject of the Russian advance through the

Gates of Asia and pass to the consideration of the present neutral

ground of Afghanistan.

[Illustration: OUTLINE MAP Showing RUSSIAN-CAUCASIAN and

TRANS-CASPIAN Territory, and NEW ODESSA-HERAT ROUTE.]

II.

ON THE THRESHOLD OF INDIA.

From the Amu Daria and the Turcoman steppes to the deserts of

Beloochistan, from Persian Khorassan to the valley of the Indus,

stretches the country of the Afghans. Men of renown and events of

world-wide interest have been connected with its history. Its

records tell of the murder of Cavagnari in recent times; of the

tragedy of Elphinstone's command (1838-42); of Shah Nadir, the

butcher of Delhi (1738-39); of Baber Khan, the founder of Mongolian

rule in India (1520); of Timur, the assailer of the world (1398); of

Genghiz Khan, the annihilator of the civilization of ancient Asia

(1218-24); of the great ruler, Sultan Mahmoud (A. D. 1000); and yet

earlier, of Alexander, "the divinely favored Macedonian." Afghan

history dies away, in the hymns of the Indian Vedas, eighteen

hundred years before the birth of Christ.

The territory of Afghanistan--which is destined to be the arena of a

great international duel--covers an area of 12,000 square miles, or

a tract measuring from north to south 688 miles, and from east to

west 736 miles. It is a mountainous country; a high plateau, 6,000

feet above the sea, overlooked by lofty mountain ranges which open

out and sink toward the west and south. On the north it is bordered

by the western ranges of the Himalayas, which reach to the Amu

Daria; by the wall-like range of the Hindu Kush, some of whose peaks

are 19,000 feet high; and by several smaller ridges. Between the

Kabul and Kuram rivers rises the snow-capped Sufeid Koh, the

principal peak of which, to the south of Jelalabad, attains an

altitude of 15,000 feet. To the south of this, in Southern

Afghanistan, the Suleiman range, of an average height of 9,000 feet,

falls rapidly toward the valley of the Indus. Between the Hindu Kush

and the Suleiman ranges there are several lesser ones stretching

toward the southwest, including the Auran Mountains (7,000 feet).

Of the principal rivers noted here (the Helmund, Har-i-Rud, Kabul,

Kuram, and the Gomal) the Helmund alone is navigable. The Helmund

terminates in the swamps of Seistan, as also do the Kash, Farrah,

and Herat rivers, running parallel to the Helmund across the

Kandahar-Herat roads, at 80, 150, and 200 miles, respectively, to

the west of it. These rivers are without bridges, but (with the

exception of the Helmund--provided with ferry at Girishk) are

fordable, save in the months of April and May. The country is

otherwise open and easily traversable, but only on the main routes

can water be readily obtained, and forage is scarce in the winter.

The Turnuk valley, running northeast from Kandahar, is followed by

the great route to Ghazni and Kabul skirting the Guikok range--separated

from the Hazaristan to its west by the parallel valley of

the Argandab. The latter valley is also followed by a route which

enters it from Mooktur, the source of the Turnuk. This debouches

upon the Herat road about ten miles west of Kandahar, and there is

no communication west of it between Herat and Kabul, save by

impracticable mountain routes across the Hazaristan.

Three routes from Kandahar to Herat separate at Girishk on the

Helmund, cross the Kash at different points, and meet at Sabzawar

(280 miles from Kandahar) on the Herat; both of the southernmost

passing by the town of Farrah, which is 230 miles from Kandahar.

From Girishk also a road follows the Helmund to Seistan and Lash

Jowain, where it joins the Herat road at Farrah on the river of that

name, or at Sabzawar on the Herat. The southernmost of the routes to

Farrah also branches from Kash down the river named Kash, joining

the Seistan route at Lash.

The general aspect of Afghanistan is that of a series of elevated

flat-bottomed valleys, in the vicinity of the streams, somewhat

under cultivation. The scenery is often wild and beautiful, and some

of the defiles to the north of the Hindu Kush are said to be of

appalling grandeur, while the soft, still loveliness of the

sheltered glens on the southern slope of that range strongly

impresses the traveller who visits them. Some of the ranges in the

north and northeast are well timbered with pine and oak.

The eastern half of Afghanistan is generally cold and rugged, but

sustains innumerable flocks and herds, and abounds in mineral

wealth, especially lead and sulphur. In the more sheltered valleys

considerable fruit is grown, but only grain enough for the actual

consumption of the inhabitants. Water and fodder abound, but fuel is

deficient; a serious matter, as the cold in the winter is extreme.

The western part of Afghanistan is a more fertile region,

interspersed, it is true, with lofty ranges, but comprising many

pleasant valleys and pastures.

The population is approximately estimated at eight millions.

Afghanistan is a genuine society of different nations, although the

greater part are of Persian descent. The strongholds of the German

self-protecting federations are here produced on a large scale.

Thus the Duranis, Tajiks, Yusafzais, Ghilzais, Eimaks, Hazaris,

Kaffirs, Hindus, Jats, Arabs, Kizilbashis, Uzbeks, Biluchis, are

near neighbors; of these about 3,000,000 may be real Afghans who

profess the Suni faith and speak Indo-Persian Puchtu. There are over

four hundred inferior tribes known. The Duranis are numerically

strongest and live in the vicinity of Kandahar. Next in importance

are the Ghilzais, estimated at 30,000 fighting men living in the

triangle--Kabul, Jelalabad, Khelat-i-Ghilzai; until 1747 they

furnished the rulers of Afghanistan. To the south of the Ghilzais

live the Puchtu-speaking races who chiefly defend only their own

territory; the mountainous eastern border is inhabited by the

Momunds, Afridis, Arakzais, Zymukts, Waziris, who have never been

subdued. Their sense of independence, however, does not prevent them

from selling their friendship for ready money to the highest bidder.

On the watershed of the Helmund and Indus dwell the independent

Pathans and Biluchis. The Persian-speaking Kizilbashis in Kabul,

comprise 3,000,000 of Shiahs, who are not Afghans, many of whose

30,000 fighting men are in the Ameer's regular army. The Tajiks--about

10,000 men--are chiefly in the Kabul and Ghazni districts.

The Hazaris and Eimaks are in the central section of Afghanistan,

known as the Hazaristan, extending east and west from the Koushan

pass over the Hindu-Kush range to Marchat on the Turcoman frontier,

and north and south from Sirpool in Turkestan to Girishk, between

Kandahar and Herat; they are the descendants of the military

settlers left by the Tartar hordes that swept Central Asia under

Genghiz Khan, and still maintain a quasi-independence; they

cordially detest the Afghan Government, but pay an annual tribute in

money to its support. Finally there is a million of foreign

nationalities, including Turks, Persians, Indians, Armenians, and

Kaffirs; the last-named are Hindus, and violent antagonists of the

Mohammedans living around them.

[Illustration: Mahaz Khan (a Tajik), Khan of Pest Bolak.

Jehandad (Lohanir), from Ghazni.]

Thus it is seen that modern Afghanistan comprises three great

districts--Herat in the west, Kabul in the east, and Kandahar in the

centre, with the seat of government at the cities of the same names

respectively. Within each district are, as already described, a

large number of tribes occupying sub-districts, closely connected

like the cells of a honey-comb, but each with its destinctive

manners and customs and irregular military forces, in no instance

numbering less than 6,000 men, and often twice that number, divided

about equally into horse and foot. Many of these render military

service to the Ameer, many are bandits in the worst sense. The

nomadic tribes--like the Eimaks peopling the Heratic region--live

principally in tents, encamping in winter in the valleys, and in

summer on the table-lands of the mountain ranges. They are ignorant,

hospitable, and brave and ardent hunters. Their principal trade is

with Herat, and consists of woollen and camel-hair fabrics and

clarified butter.

[Illustration: Wullie Mohammed, a Dahzungi Hazara.

Pozai Khan, a Shinwarri (Musician).]

The farming population all live in small hamlets. The better classes

of these live in villages surrounding or joined to the castle of a

Khan. These castles are encompassed by a rude wall, having

frequently turrets at the corners, and occasionally armed with

swivel-guns or wall-pieces. The principal gardens are always on the

outside of the castle, and the herds of horses and camels belonging

to the Khan are kept at distant pastures and attended by herders,

who live in tents. In the Bori and Ghazgar valleys the houses are of

wood. In the Ghazgar valley they are all fortified, as already

described; the doors are generally mere man-holes, and the top of

the towers are loopholes. The better class, and more modern of

these, have flat roofs, from which the water is carried by spouts;

the walls surrounding are at least twelve feet high, and cover

nearly an acre of ground. Three or four such houses usually

constitute a village. These semi-barbarians are noted for the length

and ferocity of their feuds. Sometimes two branches of a family who

are neighbors become enemies. The distance between their "fortlets"

may be two hundred yards, and on that space no one ventures. They go

out at opposite gates and walk straight from their own fort in a

line protected by its walls from the fire of the other, until out of

range, then they turn around to their fields. Broadfoot relates that

"once in Zurmat I saw a fort shut by rolling a stone against the

door, instead of with the usual heavy chain. On inquiring as to the

cause of such carelessness, the Malik, a fine old man with a plump,

good-humored face, stretched his arms out toward the line of distant

forts, and said: 'I have not an enemy!' It was a pleasing exception

to the rule."

[Illustration: Khan Baz, a Khumbhur Khel Afreedi.

Tooro Baz, a Kookie Khel Afreedi.]

These feuds are a system of petty warfare, carried on by long shots,

stealing cattle, and burning crops. Samson, burning his neighbor's

corn, acted just like an Afghan. When the harvest is nearly ripe,

neither party dare sleep. The remedy is sometimes for both to fight

until an equal number are killed on each side, when the neighbors

step in and effect a reconciliation; another method is to pay

forfeit of a feast and some sheep or cloth; in exceptional cases, a

few Afghan virgins are substituted for the sheep, but they are given

in marriage, and are well treated.

Our space does not permit an extended reference to the manners and

customs of this primitive people but a few characteristics may be

briefly noted. The love of war is felt much more among Afghans than

by other Eastern peoples, although but little effort has been made

by them to augment the means of resistance and aggression. Pillage,

fighting, and disturbances are at times necessary to their very

existence, and are followed by long days of idleness, during which

they live on the fruits of their depredations. There is no shade of

difference between the character of the nomad and the citizen; a

town life does not soften their habits; they live there as they live

in a tent, armed to the teeth and ready for the onslaught. Though

full of duplicity, one is nevertheless liable to be taken in by

their apparent frankness. They are hospitable to strangers, but only

because this is an ancient custom which has the force of law and is

not a virtue which springs from the heart. The pride of the Afghans

is a marked feature of their national character. They boast of their

descent, their prowess in arms, their independence; and cap all by

"Am I not a Puktan?"

The Afghan people, occupied with the defence of their homes, have

failed to assist the Ameer in the formation and maintenance of that

indispensable instrument--an organized, well-equipped, easily

mobilized army. In regular battle the Afghans can have but little

hope of success; their strength lies in the petty warfare peculiar

to a wild, mountainous country. As auxiliaries, as partisan troops

in their own country, they would be of great value to their allies

and extremely troublesome to their enemies. For outpost, courier,

and scouting purposes, they would doubtless be most efficient. The

strength of the organized army in the service of the Ameer of

Afghanistan is about 50,000 men of all arms. The traveller Vambery,

who visited Herat in 1863, says:

"The Afghan's national costume consists of a long shirt, drawers,

and dirty linen clothes; or, if he is a soldier, he affects a

British red coat. He throws it over his shirt, while he gets on his

head the picturesque Indo-Afghan turban. Others again--and these are

the _beau-monde_--are wont to assume a half-Persian costume. Weapons

are borne by all. Rarely does any one, whether civil or military,

enter the bazar without his sword and shield. To be quite _a la

mode_ one must carry about one quite an arsenal, consisting of two

pistols, a sword, poniard, hand-jar, gun, and shield." M. Vambery

also describes a drill of some Afghan regulars.

"The men had a very military bearing, far better than the Ottoman

army that was so drilled forty years ago. These might have been

mistaken for European troops if most of them had not had on their

bare feet the pointed Kabuli shoe, and had not had their short

trowsers so tightly stretched by their straps that they threatened

every moment to burst and fly up above the knee."

The adventurous O'Donovan thus describes an Afghan cavalryman whom

he met unexpectedly, near Herat, in 1880: "He wore a dark-colored

turban, one end of the cloth pulled up in front so as to resemble a

small cockade. His uniform was blue-black, and he wore long boots. A

broad black leather cross-belt, with two very large brass buckles,

crossed his breast. He had sabre, pistols, and carbine."

[Illustration: Zool Kuddar, an Adam Khel Afreedi.

Mousa, a Kizilbash, Born in Peshawur.]

The actual fighting strength of the army of Afghanistan cannot be

definitely stated. Major Lumsden, who has represented the British

Government in that country in various diplomatic capacities, stated

(some years since) that the regular army of the Ameer consisted of

sixteen regiments of infantry, three of cavalry, and seventy-six

field guns. The infantry regiments numbered about 800 men each; the

men were obtained by compulsory levy. Their uniform consisted of

English cast-off clothes purchased at auction. The pay, about five

rupees per mensem, was paid irregularly and often in kind; two

months' pay was deducted for clothing. The cavalry and artillery

were badly horsed; and the horses were sent to graze in summer. A

Russian report of 1868 estimates the infantry at 10,000 men. The

armament, equipment, and instruction of the troops have doubtless

improved since that time, as ten years later the British Government

supplied the Afghan Government with 10,000 Enfield and 5,000 Snider

rifles and one field battery, and very recently (1885) it was

announced that a present of Martini-Henry rifles and improved field

guns had been sent to Abdurrahman by the Indian authorities.

Besides the regular army there is a paid irregular mounted force of

about 20,000 men, active and formidable in "hill operations," and

known as Jezailchis.

The late General Colin Mackenzie, in an account of his experiences

in the Elphinstone disaster of 1842, says:

"The Jezailchis are so called from their jezails or long rifles. The

Afghans are said to be among the best marksmen in the world. They

are accustomed to arms from early boyhood, live in a chronic state

of warfare with their neighbors, and are most skilful in taking

advantage of cover. An Afghan will throw himself flat, behind a

stone barely big enough to cover his head, and scoop a hollow in the

ground with his left elbow as he loads. Men like these only require

training to make first-rate irregular troops.

"As a trait of Afghan character, I must mention that whenever the

Jezailchis could snatch five minutes to refresh themselves with a

pipe, one of them would twang a sort of a rude guitar as an

accompaniment to some martial song, which, mingling with the notes

of war, sounded very strangely."

The Russian General Staff have also estimated the Ameer's force,

exclusive of the irregulars, at 66,400 men with 30 guns.

The efficiency of this body, by reason of their peculiar

surroundings, must vary with the character of the operations. For

defence--particularly of their own section--they form an important

consideration; for aggressive purposes their strength lies in

partisan operations, in small detachments, requiring great mobility.

Just as it is difficult to understand the rapidity with which

large numbers are assembled in Afghanistan for fighting purposes,

so the dispersing of an Afghan army together with its attendant

masses of tribal levies in flight is almost beyond comprehension;

men who have been actually engaged in hand-to-hand combat dispose of

their arms in the villages they pass through, and meet their

pursuers with melons or other fruit in their hands, While they adopt

the _role_ of peaceful inhabitants.

A brief description of some of the more noted cities of Afghanistan

may be appropriate here.

Sir Henry Rawlinson gives the following details respecting the

so-called Key of India--the city of Herat:

"That which distinguishes Herat from all other Oriental cities, and

at the same time constitutes its main defence, is the stupendous

character of the earthwork upon which the city wall is built. This

earthwork averages 250 feet in width at the base and about 50 feet

in height, and as it is crowned by a wall 25 feet high and 14 feet

thick at the base, supported by about 150 semicircular towers, and

is further protected by a ditch 45 feet in width and 16 feet in

depth, it presents an appearance of imposing strength. Whether the

place is really as strong as it looks has been differently

estimated. General Ferrier, who resided for some time in Herat, in

1846, states that the city is nothing more than an immense redoubt,

and gives it as his opinion that, as the line of wall is entirely

without flanking defences, the place could not hold out for twenty

days against a European army; and M. Khanikoff, who, although not a

professional soldier, was a very acute observer, further remarks

that the whole interior of the city is dominated from the rising

ground 700 yards distant and covered with solid buildings at the

northeast angle, while the water supply both for the ditch and the

city would be at the mercy of an enemy holding the outside country;

the wells and reservoirs inside the wall, which could then alone be

available--being quite inadequate to the wants of the inhabitants:

but on the other hand, all experience testifies to the defensibility

of the position.

"Not to speak of the siege which Herat sustained at the hands of

Genghiz Khan, of Timur, and of Ahmed Shah, we have only to remember

that in 1837 the Afghans of Herat, under Major Eldred Pottinger,

beat off the continuous attacks, for nearly ten months, of a Persian

army of 35,000 regular troops supported by fifty pieces of

artillery, and in many cases directed and even commanded by Russian

officers. The truth seems to be that Herat, although in its present

state quite unfit to resist a European army, possesses great

capabilities of defence, and might by a skilful adaptation of the

resources of modern science be made almost impregnable. Major

Saunders, a British engineer officer, calculated in 1840 that, at an

outlay of L60,000, which would include the expenses of deepening the

ditch, clearing the glacis and esplanade, providing flanking

defences, and repairing the walls throughout, Herat might be

rendered secure against any possible renewal of the attack by

Persia."

The location of this city upon the principal thoroughfare between

India, Persia, and Turkestan gives it a special importance in a

military sense. It is also the principal mart of Western

Afghanistan, and comprises extensive manufactures in wool and

leather. The natural fertility of the country near Herat has been

enhanced by irrigation.

"The valley, or _julgah_ (as the Persians say), in which the

city lies is rich in the possession of a river. This valley is about

thirty miles long by sixteen in breadth, exclusive of the ground

taken up by the fortress and the walls. Four of these miles separate

the town from the northern and twelve from the southern hills, while

at one quarter of the greater distance runs the Her-i-Rud or Herat

River, which, rising near the Kuh-i-Baba, pursues a westerly course

till, passing the city, it sweeps, first gradually, then decidedly,

to the north, eventually to lose its identity in the environs of

Sarakhs. It is of political as well as of geographical importance,

for it passes between the Persian and Afghan frontier posts of

Kahriz and Kusun respectively, and may be considered to mark the

Perso-Afghan boundary at the Western Paropismus. The Plain, south of

the walls, is watered by a net-work of eight or nine large and many

minor ditches. The aqueducts are stated to be superior to those of

Bokhara, Samarcand, and Ispahan. The grain produced is abundant--beyond

the requirements of town and suburbs together. The bread, the

water, and the vines have the merit of special excellence. Yet, with

all this wealth of means and material, capable of subsisting an army

of 150,000 men for some time, much of the legacy of past ages is

disregarded and nullified by the supineness of a present generation.

The ruins visible on all sides are not all useless or obsolete

works. As one conclusive instance may be cited the neglected

'Pul-i-Malan.' This bridge, of twenty-three arches, can scarcely be

considered void of purpose or practical benefit. It is, however,

rapidly falling into decay, and as the river has changed its bed,

part of it remains, barren of object, on dry land. On the rising of

the waters this state of things is inconvenient; for the river, at

such time, is no longer fordable, and the Kandahar caravans, going

to and fro, have difficulty in crossing." [Footnote: Sir F. J.

Goldsmid, "Journeys Between Herat and Khiva."]

In 1830 Conolly was of opinion that the city was one of the dirtiest

in the world, being absolutely destitute of drainage; and Vambery,

thirty-three years afterward, when the city was captured by Dost

Mohammed, says the city was largely a heap of rubbish, having

suffered the horrors of a long siege.

The city of Kabul, from which the surrounding territory of Eastern

Afghanistan takes its name, stands in lat. 34 degrees 30' N., and

long. 69 degrees 6' E., near the point where the Kabul River is

crossed by three bridges. Its altitude is 6,400 feet, and, within a

short distance to the north, is overtopped by pinnacles of the Hindu

Kush about 14,000 feet higher.

The winters are severe, but the summers are very temperate--seldom

going above 80 degrees. Kabul is fortified without and within; being

separated into quarters by stone walls: the Bala Hissar, or citadel

proper, being on the east, while the Persian quarter of the city is

strongly protected on the southwest. In the days of Sultan Baber,

Kabul was the capital of the Mogul empire. In modern times, it has

been the scene of many Anglo-Indian struggles. It was taken by the

British in 1839, and lost by them, through treachery, in 1841;

in the following January, 4,000 British soldiers and 12,000

camp-followers were massacred while retreating.

Kandahar, the capital of Central Afghanistan, is about two hundred

miles S. W. of Kabul, and three hundred and seventy-one miles E. of

Herat. It is said to have been founded by Alexander of Macedon. The

city is laid out at right angles, and is watered from the

neighboring rivers through canals, which send to every street an

ample supply. Sir Michael Biddulph describes the surroundings:

"Kandahar stands on the western side of a plain, which was

originally a barren skirt of the mountain. Exactly opposite to the

city, and two miles to the westward, there is a wide break in the

dividing ridge, through which the road to Herat leads, and by which

are conducted the many canals and watercourses, taken from the

Argandab, to supply the town and fertilize its environs. The energy

and skill displayed in these extensive water-works cannot be too

highly extolled. Brought from a point many miles distant in the

Argandab valley, the chief canal, with its offshoots, conducts a

vast body of water, which is dispersed along the contours of the

declining plain in innumerable channels, spreading a rich fertility

for many miles in a fan-like form to the southeast of the gap.

Villages cluster around the city on three sides; cornfields,

orchards, gardens, and vineyards are seen in luxurious succession,

presenting a veritable oasis within the girdle of rugged hills and

desert wastes all around. And if we turn to the aspect of the

country beyond the gap, we see in the Argandab valley, along the

canals and the river banks, a fair and beautiful landscape of

village and cultivated ground, stretching for many miles in each

direction. This productive character of the immediate neighborhood

of Kandahar, and its commanding position within reach of other

fertile districts, would give to this place, under a strong, stable,

and just government, as much prosperity and happiness as falls to

the lot of any place in the world."

[Illustration: City of Kandahar, Afghanistan.]

Jelalabad stands on the Kabul River, about half-way between Kabul

and the Khaiber Pass. It was the scene of the stubborn defence by

Sir Robert Sale in 1842, referred to elsewhere. It has a floating

population of about three thousand souls. Our engraving is taken

from the south and west. The stream in the west is the Kabul River.

The Jati gate in the south wall is the exit from the Hindu quarter.

The Kabul exit is on the west, while the road to Peshawur commences

at the gate of that name on the east wall of the city. The northern

gate is known as the Pheel Khana, or elephant quarter. The walls of

the town and of its houses are of mud, and the roofs generally of

wood. The city is laid out in the form of a parallelogram

intersected by two main streets crossing in the centre.

The town of Ghazni (the ancient Ghizni) is another historical

landmark in a region famous for its evidences of former grandeur. It

stands about 230 miles northeast of Kandahar on the road to Kabul;

it is literally "founded upon a rock" at an elevation of 7,726 feet,

and its base is 280 feet above the adjacent plain. It has walls

thirty-five feet high, and a wet ditch, but is not considered in any

sense formidable by modern engineers, as it is commanded by

neighboring heights; it will always be a rendezvous for the natives,

and forms a station or an important line of communication between

the Indus and the Murghab. In the tenth century it was the seat of

an empire comprising the present territory of Afghanistan, and which

had in the space of seventy years absorbed thirty-eight degrees of

longitude and twenty degrees of latitude. Its decline dates from the

twelfth century, when the seat of government was transferred to

Lahore. From 1839 to 1880 it has been occupied alternately by the

British and the Afghans. The climate is not exceptionally severe,

although in winter the mercury drops to 25 degrees below zero at

times. The population averages about ten thousand.

Peshawur is one of the most important towns, both in a military and

commercial sense, in the _Derajat_. It is the capital of a province

of the same name on the N. W. frontier of India, eighteen miles from

the Khaiber Pass and one hundred and fifty miles S.E. of Kabul. It

has the usual bastioned defences, besides some detached works of

more importance. It was once a rich and populous city, but has, like

many other like places in that region, fallen from its high estate.

It is garrisoned by the British, and can boast of fair trade and a

population of about fifty thousand. It is the centre of a fruitful

district containing more than one million inhabitants.

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